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Post by decker on Feb 1, 2013 23:35:23 GMT -5
makes a big difference on this body style... IMO!!! ;D
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10wid
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Post by 10wid on Feb 14, 2013 20:54:40 GMT -5
Iv got a 73 Monaco wagon and looking for some of your guys thoughts on what I should do with the allthread in the back. Iv read this thread and nothing really matched my rules. And this is my first mopar wagon build. So any of your input would be great.
My rules allow me to have 6 bolts and 2 chains. 2 of those bolts can go to the frame and the other 4 can only go through the body.
What I am not allowed to do is chain the humps and weld the tail gate shut.
My thought was the 2 that I am allowed to the frame I would go through the humps and plate top and bottom and up through the roof and also plate top and bottom. Then my other 4 i would use to keep my tailgate on. The 2 chains I would go through the quarter and up to the roof about halfway between tailgate and diff. Hope I am on the right track. Thanks
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Feb 15, 2013 11:53:08 GMT -5
It may not be realistic to expect someone to give you an exact formula that will work for your rules since everybody across the country has different specific rules to build to, so what I would do if I were you is look at what people are listing to be common problems with these cars and then think about how to apply your rules to address those issues.
- Mopar wagons have issues with the humps pinching together at the top, which drops the back bumper and shortens up the driveshaft - they have issues with the rear floor shearing off the frame
So, people have talked about those issues and talked about what they do to address them. You're on the right track by trying to address the hump issue using rod to the roof and humps (I've never tried that but it seems like an idea worth trying). Usually when they do the tent trick the humps and the roof get closer together, so your thread rod should be nutted on all sides to maintain that distance.
To try and keep the body on the frame without bolting through it is the next trick, maybe bolt through the tailgate and down through the 3rd seat well? Need to do something to discourage it from separating. I've experimented with notch and pre-bend and it has worked ok, I haven't found anything that works as well as chaining the humps to the axle though
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10wid
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Post by 10wid on Feb 15, 2013 15:09:42 GMT -5
Thanks dm440c. Yah didn't think I would get anyone with exact rules (except for the people I run against). I was just looking for some suggestions or ideas that would help me address the problems that these wagons have under my rules. Iv been rattling my brain with different ideas to address the issues. Your idea of the rod going from tailgate to 3rd seat is one I didn't think of so thanks a lot. Also the prebending and notching was another thing I was going to do.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2013 13:33:37 GMT -5
I have a lead on a 73 Crestwood wagon. I read through the issues with the body mounts, and the humps pinching at the top, but is this a Y-Frame wagon up front?
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Post by Wreckandrace on Feb 17, 2013 13:51:47 GMT -5
^^ Aren't they Coronet Crestwoods? Those are B bodies if I recall.
But, I'm not a Mopar expert.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2013 13:52:50 GMT -5
It looks like a Coronet but a wagon. Is it a old Pinch Frame then? Or a Y-Frame?
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Post by decker on Feb 17, 2013 15:05:36 GMT -5
pinch.... i have one in my yard... its a satellite wagon... same thing... the rears are a little different but same thing happens
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2013 15:41:45 GMT -5
Alright. Thanks. It's a grand and I'm waiting to see pics before anything happens.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Feb 18, 2013 12:17:42 GMT -5
73 is the funky year for pinch frame cars up front, the explanation for how to tell the difference is at the beginning of those threads. Depending on which version it is will direct you to either the 74 & up thread or the 72 & down thread for how to build the front.
The back is essentially the same on all Mopar wagons as far as I'm concerned.... even though they have some design differences they all still have basically the same strengths and weaknesses and all the same build tricks will apply
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 18, 2013 13:21:45 GMT -5
Schweet. It looks pretty clean. Maybe I'll try to get it cheap. Thanks.
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Post by dirtsliinger722 on Mar 21, 2013 8:31:13 GMT -5
How tough is a 73 monaco wagon?Any tips on one of these I've only run gm's so new to the whole mopar thing
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Mar 25, 2013 9:44:41 GMT -5
Ok, so I traded for this wagon, anyone have any idea what year it is? Its a Plymouth Suburban, and was told the original year was a 71, but once I did a Google search to see what it should look like, it didn't match up with anything except a 73 or 74. I don't have the car here yet to check the VIN, but just from the side pictures, I'm thinking its a 73 Y-Framer. Anyone (DM440C) that can confirm or deny?
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Mar 25, 2013 11:16:07 GMT -5
yeah it's a 73 Plymouth fullsize (Y frame)
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Post by modrac on May 5, 2013 14:31:10 GMT -5
So I have a unibody chrysler wagon. I shorten the rear spring by 12 and have to re mount the rear spring. I was wondering if anyone has done this and if so how did they do it. I can do frame repair but if i weld a plate to mount spring that counts as frame repair. I am sure they will suggest another spot to look on this site or redirect it. But thought here would be best as most mopar are unidody. Well hope to hear ideas.
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