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Post by derbydriver666 on Mar 19, 2013 10:53:31 GMT -5
from what Ive heard from old school drivers is that the shaft of the steering assist ends up bending causing more problems than anything.
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Post by Impin Aint Easy on Mar 19, 2013 14:51:55 GMT -5
Hmm good info.. so the cylinder ram itself acually bends? You would think that it would help brace the draglink... Or does the power cylinder bracket bust up due to it being cast iron?
The only Problem i can see it the pitman arm joint .. but that problem occurs with full manuals steering and I got a fix for that.. I think I might give the Ole Power assist a try with a chevy pump.. I mean if the ram bends no big deal chances are the draglink will be bent as well.. worstcase scenerio it pukes oil into the headers or something.. I am only considering this setup because the rules say it has to be stock.
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Post by Comet Cyclone on Mar 19, 2013 15:08:30 GMT -5
those early fords are all thin stuff. It would or could work with an aftermarket or heavier drag link though...
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Post by Impin Aint Easy on Mar 19, 2013 18:25:56 GMT -5
Not understanding what your talking about?
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Post by Impin Aint Easy on Mar 26, 2013 10:23:54 GMT -5
Looks like a good reason to take it off would be for oil pan clearance..
Any more opinions on this subject would be good!
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Post by Comet Cyclone on Mar 26, 2013 10:39:59 GMT -5
what kind of car and motor are u trying to use it on?
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Post by nick18sf on Mar 27, 2013 9:37:32 GMT -5
I have a chevy 10 bolt under a 90's crown vic and trying to get the brakes hooked up. there must be a fitting to make the two fit, does anyone have a part number for that at O'reilly's os Napa?
thanks, nick
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Post by Comet Cyclone on Mar 27, 2013 10:16:49 GMT -5
easier to cut off the old ends on original lines and put on the ones u need.... I don't know anyone who swaps a rear end and uses original brake lines though.
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Post by STROMI 121 on Mar 27, 2013 10:25:26 GMT -5
A brake line flaring tool is a good investiment. Then you can make your own and put whatever ends on them that you want.
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Post by fordpower111 on Mar 27, 2013 10:58:07 GMT -5
Just make sure you put the end on the line before you start flaring! ;D
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Post by derbydriver666 on Mar 27, 2013 20:09:22 GMT -5
hate when I do that..... or accidentally slide it on backwards lmao
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WILSON'S INC.
Heat Winner
I am so sick of resto guys wasting good derby parts.
Posts: 779
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Post by WILSON'S INC. on Mar 27, 2013 21:30:07 GMT -5
has anyone deleted the booster on the 77-9 thunderchickens? how did you go about it, or is there a smaller reservoir, i can bolt on the booster.
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Post by Impin Aint Easy on Mar 27, 2013 23:57:56 GMT -5
Id get rid of the booster and master.. And use a manual brakes master cylinder with one output line off an 60s ford.. Then use all new line to rearend and use back brakes only.. Wham bam more header clearance,. You could even run the master inside the cab ..
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Post by fatboy1 on Mar 28, 2013 19:30:21 GMT -5
A brake line flaring tool is a good investiment. Then you can make your own and put whatever ends on them that you want. I ALWAYS JUST USE THE FACTORY BRAKE LINES, CUT TO WHAT EVER LENGTH I NEED WITH TUBING CUTTER, THEN USE UNION COMPRESSION FITTINGS TI CONNECT LINES. ONCE CAR IS DONE, I KEEP ALL USABLE BRAKE LINES FOR FUTURE CARS. THIS WAY ALL I END UP BUYING IS 3/16 UNION COMPRESSION FITTINGS. I ALSO DO THIS WITH ALL MY POWER STEERING LINES. MIX AND MATCH GM TO FORD TO MOPAR TO GM TO WHATEVER LINES YOU WANT.
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Post by Comet Cyclone on Mar 28, 2013 19:33:57 GMT -5
ok Crusher.
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