mn13
Heat Winner
Posts: 231
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Post by mn13 on May 16, 2017 12:28:44 GMT -5
I was asking myself the same question when it came time to strip cars this year, did a search came across this tool, super expensive for my taste, but it was basically a cable similar to a hood release cable but longer. The cable was ran through the glue, around the whole window to be removed, and anchored at a point near where the cable comes through. Then there is a suction cup with a drill driven winch that just pulls the cable through the glue. I took that concept this year on my last window to do, anchored the cable on the inside as close to the corner as I could get and just pulled the cable. Did NOT saw it just pulled. it worked beautifully, and I usually end up breaking the rear glass when I use a sawzall. This is one version of the tool www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0SUWKNkVUM
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Post by fulltrackzach55 on May 16, 2017 15:08:05 GMT -5
Thanks for all the feed back, there were definitely some things I didn't think of doing. Looking forward to trying these methods. Thanks again
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on May 16, 2017 20:34:51 GMT -5
I like using an oscillating saw after you break the glass out to get outside edge. Rockwell calls it a "sonicrafter" but there's lots of other brands out there. Put a scraper blade on. (for like floor glue,etc.) I thought it was 100 times easier/faster than a knife or chisel/hammer.
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noser23x
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R.W.C.
Posts: 1,970
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Post by noser23x on May 17, 2017 4:23:52 GMT -5
Pay someone 50 to strip it for you is pretty easy lol, or get good friends with an autobody guy with a window tool.
I basically started knocking out back windows (usually break anyway cutting them out), taking door stuff out nicely, and windshield is a sawzall. Get a corner up and work around sawing through the glue, once you get the angle right it buzzes through pretty quick. Shop vac the inside and be on your way.
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n8
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Posts: 1,147
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Post by n8 on May 17, 2017 12:16:51 GMT -5
Sawzall with a 9 or 12 inch wood blade on it was the fastest way I have found to remove a windshield. Put blade in seam between window and frame start going. Rear window I typically shatter because they always break on me anyways. Side windows I pull out. Wear eye protection and gloves for all of it.
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Post by jugulator on May 17, 2017 12:27:02 GMT -5
what ever method,,, WEAR EYE PROTECTION !!! FACE MASK IS GOOD TOO
#2,, glass falls into sneakers,,, wear your boots,,
#3,,,, gloves,,, hat,, air blow yourself when done,,
shop vac the car,,
..........lenny
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ron17t
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Posts: 1,180
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Post by ron17t on May 17, 2017 18:32:46 GMT -5
On my list of tools that I want but can't justify owning-an induction heater. You hook up pads to the glass, flip a switch and melt the urethane and lift the window out. There about $1000, so I use a sawzall with a sharpend scraper blade
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Post by roadwarrior41 on May 17, 2017 19:31:41 GMT -5
Something I discovered a few cars back is that if take the braided wire from the hood latch cable pull it out from inside the vinyl jacket then cut it into about 2' sections. Make a small hole in the rubber around window were you can fish wire through then wrap a handle on each side (I used 2 long bolts but anything would work) then just start sawing you don't have to apply a lot of pressure because it will heat up and practically burn its way through. Easier with 2 people one on outside and one in but I did the front and back glass both on my last one by myself. Hope this helps someone I did that but with no one helping,it gave me one hell of a workout LOL
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Post by roadwarrior41 on May 17, 2017 19:34:49 GMT -5
Harbor Freight makes a tool that is basically the same as what hicks66 said. Only 7 or 8 bucks. comes with a spool of wire and 2 handles. Sometimes they don't come with the braided cable but a weaker metal string that breaks very easy. I buy rolls of the braided line online now but 1 roll will last a few years. Works really fast when its really hot outside and the rubber is soft. Can be very difficult when its cold. I use the piano/guitar wire
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Post by redneckracing12 on May 17, 2017 21:10:00 GMT -5
I use the braided steel cable, hood release cables from box vics. Little wd40 while working it back and forth, cuts pretty quick.
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Post by destroyer14 on May 18, 2017 11:17:14 GMT -5
I Crack em with hood cables.better luck myself with the cables for door mirrors. Use the inner part. It's tough as hell and a pair of vise grips on each end sprayed with w index or wd-40 works great.but I did buy a maximizer Sawzall like glass shop.still use old method half the time
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Post by jugulator on May 18, 2017 19:36:06 GMT -5
remember the old car glass,,, it almost fell out,,,
this new black glue is tough,,
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Post by destroyer14 on May 18, 2017 20:35:37 GMT -5
remember the old car glass,,, it almost fell out,,, this new black glue is tough,, some of it sure is EVIL
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Post by STROMI 121 on May 19, 2017 12:52:29 GMT -5
Its windshield urethane. The reason the newer the car the harder to remove the gkass especially the windshields is because a while back the car manufacturers started bouncing air bags off them. Can't have them come loose. Too much liability. According to ICAR and Abra (whom I work for) you are not even allowed to paint the mating flamge of any stationary glass. We have to have it bate metal with a catalyzed epoxy primer and then pinch weld primer after that. They are very serious about proper adhesion. Really sucks for us derby guys though.
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Post by STROMI 121 on May 22, 2017 21:45:36 GMT -5
^^ I find it awfully silly that every time a passenger air bag goes off you have to replace the windshield... Seems as though car manufacturers could come up with a better design. I don't disagree. I think its idiotic to intentionally put broken glass in to the accident equation. Before they started using occupant sensors in the seats they use to go off even if there wasn't a passenger. Now you have to weogh 45 lbs for it to deploy.
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