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Post by Forney00c on Sept 24, 2012 8:59:46 GMT -5
Haven't seen this on here yet, and have asked about this set of tips and haven't gotten anyone who seems to know of an actual 58-64 thread on here. So here's a few tips to get this thing started:
Cars this thread covers:
1957-1964 FULLSIZE Ford Cars
1957-1961 Ford Fairlane 1959-1964 Ford Galaxie 1957-1964 Ford Country Squire ALL Edsels: Citation*, Corsair*, Pacer, Ranger Also, Ford 300 and 1958-1960 Lincoln NOT SUICIDES 1957-60* and 61-64 Mercury Monterey 1957-1958* Turnpike Cruiser 1957-1960* and 1964 Mercury Montclair 1957-60* and 61-64 Mercury Colony Park and Commuter Wagons 1963-1964 Mercury Marauder 1958-60* and 1961-1964 Mercury Parklane
* Indicates cars with the "Big Mercury Frame"
Cars NOT in this thread:
Ford: 1962 & ^ Fairlane Any year Falcon Mercury: Comet Lincoln: Any 1961-1964 Lincoln (Suicides)
Forget the front bumper. Swap for a Mopar of Chevy bumper. Take body bolts out and replace with larger bolts. Build up leaf packs, cut leaf hanger off of frame, bolt leafs through the frame. Get rid of power steering hydraulic assist. Fold 1/4s up under the car and bolt through the trunk floor.
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Post by aoldfart on Sept 25, 2012 11:35:22 GMT -5
See the Fords tips/tricks page 2.
Steve
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Post by derbydriver666 on Oct 2, 2012 19:14:21 GMT -5
bunch of basic tips GOOD WAYS TO MOUNT FRONT BUMPERS • Rear 74-76 BOP/Caddi Brackets • Reworked 70s ford bumper brackets SIMPLE AND EFFECTIVE REAR HANGER SET UP STEERING • Quick U-Joint set up • 70s Ford 2WD Steering boxes are pretty easy to Fab up to be able to run P/S on these tanks THINGS TO DO TO MAKE LIFE EASIER DROPPING IN A SBC • You can set the motor up higher or drop the steering components down a couple inches If you look at the pic below, all I did was got rid of the joint and used a bolt with a spacer for the Pitman arm and Idler MAIN WEAKNESSES THAT SHOULD BE ADDRESSED • Steering components besides the boxes are JUNK IMO......i have bent / broke centerlinks/ tie rods.....get rid of Power Assist steering shock • Spindles and upper balljoints are also JUNK IMO........bent both spindle main shafts ( good thing is 74-76 torinos/74-78 cougars/77-79 T bird spindles will bolt right on and will work with the original tierods ) • REAR LEAF HANGERS ( pic above shows an easy cure ) • Front bumper mounting ( pics above show cures ) • Although I havent had problems with this I know a few others have.......bottom control arms breaking at the mounts COMMON PLACES THESE GEMS LIKE TO BEND FROM FRONT TO REAR ( most places are easy fixes ) • C -Channel part in front if not addressed • Behind 1st crossmember behind C- Channel.....if not addressed properly • spring buckets collapsing • right behind A arms behind engine crossmember tube • pinching right in front of firewall on drivers side • frame seams blow out and frame bends right behind firewall mounts • right at the lowers in front of the rear wheels • package tray tube for shocks ( welds crack where it goes through the frame ) • Humps within 6 inches behind the package tray tube if you cant chain humps • can start to kick frame sideways starting about 16" behind package tray tube at the 1st set of oval holes on the side of the frame • if the back leaf hangers are changed they will bend right behind the hangers after........................................ • they bend right at the end of the rectangle window on the inside of the frame about 16" from the back
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Post by Forney00c on Oct 3, 2012 8:32:57 GMT -5
Welding the trunk lid solid, and then taking a sledge and beating the tops of the 1/4s and the trunk lid right above where the rear leaf shackles are at is basically the same thing as tucking the trunk.
On 1962 FULLSIZE MERCURYS: If allowed to weld all body seams, plate the seam in the 1/4's. The 62's have a 2 piece 1/4 and has a seem under the trim that runs from the back of the door to the tail light hole. You might also want to make sure that there is some way to see inside the trunk to verify that there is a seem there. I have been hassled about plating my 1/4s by a tech crew that doesn't know anything about any car except a Vic, Shockers, and 70's GM's.
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Post by kirbybuilt54 on Oct 5, 2012 15:35:02 GMT -5
I can get a 59 wagon for free but the floor has been cut out from under the drivers seat to the tail gate, from frame rail to frame rail. I can only pop rivot patch pannels. I have a preran 63 wagon that should be finished of by next year, will the floorboards fit? Should I get it or leave it.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 5, 2012 16:01:04 GMT -5
y would u pass up somethin free??..better load it up!
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Post by kirbybuilt54 on Oct 5, 2012 16:29:55 GMT -5
my issue with this car is that I will have to run it this year because it will be a sponsered car. I cant sell, trade, or scrap it. Just not sure how important the floor boards are for these cars, or if its even worth the time and money to replace the floor if all I can do is pop rivot the floor boards in.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 5, 2012 17:11:32 GMT -5
Pop rivets will get u killed...it's a whole different perspective on being "free" and "sponsored" ... My whole idea with bein "free" was hustle it to the scrap yard an make money to buy something that's worth runnin to those crazy "rivot patch" rules
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Post by K.Baker 29K on Oct 5, 2012 18:35:27 GMT -5
Lets see some pics of these things during the build i think they are neat to.look at!
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Post by derbydriver666 on Oct 5, 2012 19:08:57 GMT -5
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Post by derbydriver666 on Oct 11, 2012 22:57:12 GMT -5
the new addition... 2013 car.............. 62 Galaxie 2 dr hardtop...... very little rust... no pan rust whatsoever
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Post by RockyVI on Oct 15, 2012 11:27:39 GMT -5
Is that a factory 4 speed car? If so, its worth some money.
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Post by derbydriver666 on Oct 15, 2012 11:39:39 GMT -5
:/ not a 4 spd car..... trying to figure out wether to wreck it or not , but they all have to go somehow lol Is that a factory 4 speed car? If so, its worth some money.
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Post by 355olds on Oct 15, 2012 17:26:55 GMT -5
I've got two 1958 Mercury Montereys that I thought I had sold but the guy backed out. Are these cars any good? Do they compare to the cars pictured above? Thinking of building one of them for next summer. How hard is it to put a SBC in these and what are the pro's and con's of these cars.
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Post by Forney00c on Oct 15, 2012 17:51:13 GMT -5
These are the same build as the ones mentioned and pictured above. They are VERY good if built right. Pros: Hard back end. 9in. probably just needs a decent set of gears and a spool or spider gears welded. Cons: Have heard some people having a lot of trouble with the front suspension. Like derbydriver666 stated above, the spindles and upper balljoints will swap from the torinos, cougars, and t-birds. As for the tierods, I have used crown vic tierods and a chevy center link. Also, if you aren't going to go that way, get rid of power steering and weld pipe over the tie rods. Don't know about the SBC, I put a 302 in mine.
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