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Post by alta454camaro on Dec 10, 2013 18:51:40 GMT -5
How can u tell which one is number one on the dist. cap? I'm positive the order is right on the cap just not sure if its on number one
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Dec 11, 2013 12:06:09 GMT -5
#1 is determined by the position of the piston, not the distributor cap. Dollars to donuts we're honing in on your problem here. First you have to roll the engine over to TDC on #1, then look at where the rotor is pointing, now you know where the #1 post is on the cap and can go from there. If it still doesn't start you may be 180° off but at least you have the sequence right.... if that is the case you just lift the distributor part way out, rotate the shaft 180°, and put it all back in.
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Post by alta454camaro on Dec 11, 2013 12:18:49 GMT -5
Ok thanks dm440c ur a big help will try that an go from there
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Dec 16, 2013 13:14:24 GMT -5
P.S. do not place all your trust in the #1 mark on the crankshaft balancer.... many times I have found this to be incorrect. Roll the engine over by hand until you verify #1 is at TDC and go from there
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Post by klicky96 on Dec 30, 2013 20:38:36 GMT -5
Alright, so I'm having an issue with my 318. It came out if a 60's coronet. Points system. If I run my coil directly to hot, I can get the engine to fire up. That's 12v straight to the coil. Why I've been told is, if I run it at 12v, it will burn up the points. So I put a ballast resistor in from autozone. When I hooked up the battery, it just basically "fried" the resistor. Didn't melt any wires, but just started smoking from the resistor. I am using the wire diagram on the first page for electronic ignition but not using the oil pressure light. I want to get your guys' opinion before I start moving wires around and screwing up the points and stuff.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Dec 31, 2013 12:54:32 GMT -5
it's supposed to get hot, that is its job and that's why it is separated from the coil and encased in a ceramic heat sink. Just think- if you used the internal resistor GM coil all that heat would be inside the coil. There is probably just some oil or sealant or something on the resistor that is burning off and it shouldn't matter. Let 'er rip.
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Post by klicky96 on Dec 31, 2013 14:44:13 GMT -5
it's supposed to get hot, that is its job and that's why it is separated from the coil and encased in a ceramic heat sink. Just think- if you used the internal resistor GM coil all that heat would be inside the coil. There is probably just some oil or sealant or something on the resistor that is burning off and it shouldn't matter. Let 'er rip. Alright thanks. I've never had a carbed engine before, so I'm like a kid in a candy shop. I'm so excited to run it, but I don't know much about carbed engines besides the basics. Now, fuel injection, I can work on all day, every day. Carbs on the other hand, completely different ballgame. I do like the factor of a mechanical fuel pump though, less wires, and less to go wrong.
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Post by destructiondylan on May 8, 2014 16:59:53 GMT -5
Hey guys, his may be a dumb questions but is there a way to run an electronic tach on my 76 doba? It's got the electronic ignition and I got er all wired up like the diagram on the first page. Runs like a top. I have a tack on my switch panel that I used on my Buick with hei. Just plugged the wire into the dist. And voila it worked. This system, not so much. Any way I can do it?
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Post by fordpowerforever on May 8, 2014 18:45:38 GMT -5
i think you would just hook it to the distributor side of the coil, i havent wired a tach in years...and would never look down to see what it was at in derby car anyways..
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on May 9, 2014 8:01:14 GMT -5
should work fine connected to the negative side of the coil. I don't know about your particular brand of tach but that's the way I do it on Mopar electronic ignitions.
FYI The tach lead on a GM HEI distributor is basically the same thing- it picks up the signal from the negative side of the coil every time it cycles.
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Post by destructiondylan on May 9, 2014 12:53:07 GMT -5
Excellent. Thanks for the info. I only use the tack to see if the engine is running if I can't hear it. And I use it to set the idle back to stock idle for setting the timing.
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Post by chevykillerx13 on May 27, 2014 22:19:59 GMT -5
Scored a free MSD 6A, and was planning on using it with my 318. Is anyone else running one of these? It's one of the older 6a 6200's not the new digital 6a 6201. I've also got a mopar "orange" box that's already wired to the engine, which would be more beneficial in the derby setting?
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on May 28, 2014 14:28:09 GMT -5
Scored a free MSD 6A, and was planning on using it with my 318. Is anyone else running one of these? It's one of the older 6a 6200's not the new digital 6a 6201. I've also got a mopar "orange" box that's already wired to the engine, which would be more beneficial in the derby setting? I don't think you'll see a measurable difference in either one... but in your shoes I'd give the 6A a try just for kicks
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Punisher 66J
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Post by Punisher 66J on Jun 1, 2014 14:49:36 GMT -5
1970 & up dual field charging system (you don't have to use the starter relay.... I just show it as a jumper point for 12v feed) _____________________________________________________ points with a light to indicate ignition is "on". Alternatively, instead of taking it straight to ground you can connect this leg to the oil pressure switch on the top of the engine just behind the intake manifold to indicate the engine is not running based on oil pressure: _____________________________________________________ electronic ignition Ok now before I get tore apart here let it be known I am very VERY horrible with wiring. I have always had my uncle wire my cars with me helping and he passed away last year so I am doing it all alone. I can get the car to start and run with the way I have it wired. Its a HEI distributer like a chevy but made by skip white for a 318. So it will run no issues but I am having a hard time figuring out how to wire up the alternator or should I just say skrew it and not run it? I don't always run one but would like the ability to so I don't have to charge the battery 24/7. I am having a hard time understanding this diagram at the top cause I may be half retarded, with out the electronic ignitio and switched to HEI how would I wire up the alternator?
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Jun 1, 2014 22:59:08 GMT -5
Running the hei dist shouldn't affect your charging system. From what I gather (I don't mess with alternators but am going to make an attempt soon) two wires run to the 3 pronged box, and one runs to your battery. The wire running to the middle prong is then connected to the battery wire with a toggle switch. That's how I interpret the diagram, could be wrong though.
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