demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Apr 21, 2020 0:16:09 GMT -5
Been looking at vic spindles for a 80 up gm. Any one else use these? I've always ran stock 80 ups on mine but thinking for the show I'm going to I want to lift it up more a bit.
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Post by cheezwhiz31 on Apr 21, 2020 11:20:58 GMT -5
Need to run aftermarket ball joint or fab up a vic upper BJ into the 80s upper arm or swap over to vic uppers with vic upper ball joint as well... Otherwise yes it will raise it up a hair. I usually can get a 80's gm high enough with cutting out the a-arm enough to sit down on the spring pocket. So if it was me and going through the trouble of swapping spindles i'd put a old iron one on for strength with the 80's upper.
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Apr 21, 2020 16:03:58 GMT -5
Need to run aftermarket ball joint or fab up a vic upper BJ into the 80s upper arm or swap over to vic uppers with vic upper ball joint as well... Otherwise yes it will raise it up a hair. I usually can get a 80's gm high enough with cutting out the a-arm enough to sit down on the spring pocket. So if it was me and going through the trouble of swapping spindles i'd put a old iron one on for strength with the 80's upper. ya I was looking at options see what I want to do. Other one I was looking at was astro vans.
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3G
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Post by 3G on Apr 23, 2020 21:27:59 GMT -5
Are all bubble GM suspension parts direct bolt in onto 80s square body GM? Getting parts together and have couple bubble GMs but only 1 80s Caprice currently.
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Post by cheezwhiz31 on Apr 24, 2020 9:36:11 GMT -5
yes
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Punisher 66J
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Post by Punisher 66J on May 11, 2020 12:45:53 GMT -5
Ok so this will be my second new style GM EVER. Always run mopars but the R body I brought home needs a ton of love so will be for next year. I am building this for a light weld 80s and up stock class. Any way from what I know about these you want to notch the rear at 18 inches from rear bumper and dimple behind the hump. I plan on pre bending the a$$ end up some as well as tucking the trunk. It will have a 76 buick bumper hard nosed with a set of mopar shocks welded to the top of the frame going back 12 inches. I am allowed 4 down bars, I was thinking right in front of where the frame turns to c channel by firewall at my feet right at the body mount, and the back two down bars around the cross member. I was going to weld the a arms down and thought about cold bending at the crossmember but I have never done this. I was thinking put it on the car trailer and strap it down at 4 points and jack it up at the cross member then weld the 4 points down from the cage. I have straightened cars this way so I figured I could tilt it that way. I'm putting in a 355 and turbo 400 with a buick 12 bolt axle. Anything else I need to know? where else should I address? I am allowed 4 4inch plates as well just not sure where would be the best place to put them.
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Post by willoughby78 on May 11, 2020 13:23:06 GMT -5
Sounds like you’ve got a good idea, if you put the Down bar at the firewall you’ll have to come up with a way to keep the center from bellying, they will start blowing out at the c channel under the doors, I like to make a spacer to sandwich between the c channel and then use chain from the cage to tie it together
Having never tilted one I can’t comment on that, but I’d stick two plates on the S bend at the fire wall, and the other two right in front of the a arms, unless you’re allowed longer bumper shocks, then I’d stick all 4 on the fire wall
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Punisher 66J
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Post by Punisher 66J on May 11, 2020 13:39:17 GMT -5
Sounds like you’ve got a good idea, if you put the Down bar at the firewall you’ll have to come up with a way to keep the center from bellying, they will start blowing out at the c channel under the doors, I like to make a spacer to sandwich between the c channel and then use chain from the cage to tie it together Having never tilted one I can’t comment on that, but I’d stick two plates on the S bend at the fire wall, and the other two right in front of the a arms, unless you’re allowed longer bumper shocks, then I’d stick all 4 on the fire wall I forgot to mention I always 9 wire from my cages to my frame in a few spots and that is my plan to keep it from bellying out. The mopar shocks on top of the frame 12 inches back is the plan up front. I think that will get me past the bend before the A arms.
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Post by ghall79 on May 14, 2020 17:30:38 GMT -5
Bubble caprice for a stock show, trying to decide between 14’s or 15’s for the rear. Stock rear and springs. Already going with 15’s on the front just wondering if I should match it on the back or sink it down a little with 14’s
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on May 14, 2020 23:34:35 GMT -5
Bubble caprice for a stock show, trying to decide between 14’s or 15’s for the rear. Stock rear and springs. Already going with 15’s on the front just wondering if I should match it on the back or sink it down a little with 14’s Stock show I keep my 77 up gm level. But if you go 14 inch tire don't mean it's going to drop the rear depending what 15 inch you got on front. I run 30s on front so I'd still put a 25 inch tall on rear unless super muddy then I'd go 27 to 30 inch in rear. Sounds like you need to pick out your front tire size before deciding rear especially if your one of them 5.50 guys them are only 25 inch tall.
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Post by ghall79 on May 15, 2020 6:30:00 GMT -5
Front tires are 7.00-15 right around 27 tall.
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Punisher 66J
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Post by Punisher 66J on May 23, 2020 7:32:19 GMT -5
Ok so this will be my second new style GM EVER. Always run mopars but the R body I brought home needs a ton of love so will be for next year. I am building this for a light weld 80s and up stock class. Any way from what I know about these you want to notch the rear at 18 inches from rear bumper and dimple behind the hump. I plan on pre bending the a$$ end up some as well as tucking the trunk. It will have a 76 buick bumper hard nosed with a set of mopar shocks welded to the top of the frame going back 12 inches. I am allowed 4 down bars, I was thinking right in front of where the frame turns to c channel by firewall at my feet right at the body mount, and the back two down bars around the cross member. I was going to weld the a arms down and thought about cold bending at the crossmember but I have never done this. I was thinking put it on the car trailer and strap it down at 4 points and jack it up at the cross member then weld the 4 points down from the cage. I have straightened cars this way so I figured I could tilt it that way. I'm putting in a 355 and turbo 400 with a buick 12 bolt axle. Anything else I need to know? where else should I address? I am allowed 4 4inch plates as well just not sure where would be the best place to put them. Any input?
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on May 25, 2020 21:47:06 GMT -5
Punisher 66J on your cage I'd put front down tubes at the front inner door seem and rear I max min out and that puts me just in front of the rear seat body mount. If it was my car I'd replace all body mounts inside the car. That's all ten. Counting the 2 you add on drivers door area that is just a rubber where they belly out. And the two over the rearend by the shocks that are just rubber unless you got a caddy. Then hour glass your rear humps if allowed ( DON'T USE HEAT TO DO SO!!). Notch wise it's whatever your are comfortable with since many of us notch different but since you are preventing your shouldn't have problem with going up. For your light weld if allow do add the hump plate.
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3G
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Post by 3G on Jul 10, 2020 23:14:28 GMT -5
Have 80ish Caprice. Show allows (4) 4x6 patch plates on all cars. Opinions on best places? I'm thinking (2) at S in firewall where they push back at. (1) in front of passenger side A arm where the holes on outside of frame are. What about the last one? Ideas on all 4?
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Jul 11, 2020 6:03:12 GMT -5
Have 80ish Caprice. Show allows (4) 4x6 patch plates on all cars. Opinions on best places? I'm thinking (2) at S in firewall where they push back at. (1) in front of passenger side A arm where the holes on outside of frame are. What about the last one? Ideas on all 4? Pass side rear at curve where idler arm is. This should then make it give right behind bumper shocks before giving more at firewall.
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