Post by bender8 on May 25, 2024 10:02:02 GMT -5
2024 Union County Fair Demolition Derbies
Friday and Saturday Aug. 23rd and 24th
Anna IL. Starts at 7pm both nights. Tech will begin at 3pm and end no later than 6:30pm
Will run Gut-N-Go Big Cars, Bone Stock Minis, Mini Vans, and County Fair Pro Stock Big Cars both night.
Powerwheels will run both nights ages 3yrs-10yrs
Presented by Baker Racing
Questions on rules call or text josh baker (618)697-0743 or Joshua Baker on FB. (RULES POSTED ON WECRASH.) we-crash.proboards.com
County Fair Pro Stock Rules:
DO NOT READ ANYTHING INTO THESE RULES, JUST READ THE RULES!! If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T! Or you will be loaded, your choice! This is a 0 Tolerance show, do not show up excessively built. NO black cars, dark cars must have contrasting letters/numbers. DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame; we will not even inspect your car. - Strip/Remove all materials down to metal shells, which include all glass, plastics, carpets, fabrics, moldings and such. Remove all decking in wagons.
Any American made production car or station wagon except Chrysler Imperials, no trucks, suvs, vans, or such. - Body components must be directly bolted up only. Must be factory hardware or equivalent in size.
BRAND SPECIFIC RULES:
Metric GM, Ford, Lincoln, And Mercury
You are allowed a 6” x 22” x 1/4” thick flat arch plate and it MUST BE CENTERED and CONTOURED on the wheel side of the hump. 3 Plug weld holes no bigger than 2” and no welds bigger than ½" to attach hump plate to frame. It is not allowed to attach the hump plate to the body.
Metric Ford, Lincoln and Mercury
You are allowed to cut the 3 tabs at the box to tilt with the tabs being rewelded over like they came from the factory, ½’ weld max. 8” core support spacer allowed. Must be VERTICAL and cannot run through the support. 03 up please follow 03 section.
Metric Gm
You may Tilt your car at the cross member by 1 Single pie cut with a single ½" weld, no plate may be added besides cross member mounting per rules below.
MOPAR
You are allowed a 8 leaf spring pack, 5 Clamps per leaf pack, use as you wish front or back of rear differential, no duct tape, no wire, no chain to be used, just 5 clamps. Factory spring thickness(5/16ths”) and width per year of Chrysler. 2” STAGGER ON SPRINGS. If running a pinch frame style Mopar, YOU MAY ALSO CHANGE YOUR 4 FRONT SUB/K FRAME BOLTS to 1” diameter and suck sub/k frame to body. If you chose not to change leaf springs and keep them factory, you may utilize the 1976 and prior sedan hump plate rule.
1976 and prior sedan
YOU ARE ALLOWED A 6” x 12” x 1/4” THICK FLAT ARCH PLATE. MUST BE CENTERED and Contoured ON THE HUMP AND ON THE WHEEL SIDE OF THE HUMP. 3 Plug weld holes no bigger than 2” and no welds bigger than ½" to attach hump plate to frame.
1976 and prior station wagon
Rear leaf springs must remain factory thickness and width per leaf. You may have up to 8 springs with 2” stagger, no doubling main leafs. 5 clamps total per pack. Rear 4 body mounts behind rear axle may utilize 5/8” threaded rod with 3 store bought washers, nuts and 2 5” max washer ¼" thick per rod and extend thru roof, cannot be nutted above and below roof sheet metal, plate, washer and nut must be on top of roof metal.
BODY:
1. No body seams may be welded. No metal may be added. You will cut more than you welded.
2. No doubling of body panels allowed, no added metal allowed.
3. BODY CREASING IS LIMITED TO Front Fenders, REAR QUARTER PANELS AND TRUNK ONLY.
4. Fenders may be bolted together. Max of 10- 3/8” BOLTS with 2” od store bought washer
ABOVE THE FENDER WELL, no further than a hand width from wheel well opening.
Doors may be chained, wired, or welded. When welding the doors, 6in on 6in off all the way around. 3”x1/8” strap or ½” filler rod.
DRIVER SAFETY:
1. Driver's Door can be welded SOLID and may have a ⅛” door plate on outside of the door that extends no further than 6” past either door seam or inside which may be ¼” flat plate, not both, must not connect to the frame in any form or manner.
2. Passenger door must be welded 6 inches on 6 off. May have a 1 ⁄ 4 '' flat plate door plate on the inside of the door ONLY, no taller than the side bar and not connected to the frame in any form or manner.
3. 2 batteries max, bolted to the floor or welded to the cage, must be covered. Battery boxes may not contain a full floor plate.
4. Hood must be 100% in stock location and open for inspection.
5. Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added.
6. Hoods must have a 4x4" min. hole cut on each side of Carb. Bolting hood sheet metal is allowed using 8 - 3/8 bolts and 3/8 store bought washers max. No welding bolts, washers, nuts or sheet metal.
7. Hoods may only be secured shut in 6 spots Max by bolting, 4 strands of #9 wire max, 1 strand of chain, 3/8 chain, bolt and nut max. No welding of chain or wire.
8. If the bolting hood is shut you may use 2”x2”x1/4”x 6” max angle iron back to back welded on. If using an aluminum hood, you may use 2 3/8” store bought bolts and hardware to secure angle iron to the hood, aluminum hood only, per hood angle. Or you may weld 2”x2”x1/4”x 6” angle down the inside of the fender under the hood in 6 spots and run a 5/8 bolt 8” long max with a 5” max outer diameter washer for hood plates. Sheet metal to sheet metal only for any of these methods. Maximum of 6 spots to secure the hood. If using a core support body bolt to secure the hood, it may be 1” threaded rod and extend 6” above the upper part of core support. These count toward your 6 hood bolts.
9. If you are wiring hood shuts a 1” inside diameter store bought washer may be welded to sheet metal for wire to run through.
10. No welding, bolting, wiring, taping or chaining of body unless stated.
11. No adding metal or any other material to strengthen the body unless stated.
12. Front Windshield area must have a chain, wire or bar. 2 spots of wire or chain or 2 Flat bars max ( 2”x 1/4”). No more than 6” of bar may overlap onto the body or windshield cowling. Bars may connect together in 1 spot only. Must not interfere with the drive train at any moment before, during or after the show.
13. Rear window opening on sedans only may utilize a 2”x2”x1/4” rear window bar welded or bolted 6” on roof line and 6” on truck lid, no further than 2” behind front drip edge. Wagons may use a 4” wide ¼” strap to weld from roof line to tailgate, no more than 6” of weld on roof or tailgate.
14. Fresh Sedagons are NOT allowed.
15. NO RUST REPAIR BESIDES MOUNTING SEAT, BATTERIES, FUEL TANK, AND PEDALS. BOLT OR WELD OEM THICKNESS MATERIAL WITHIN REASON TO MOUNT THEM SAFELY. NOT UP FOR DEBATE!!!! IF YOU WANT A CLEAN CAR, BUY ONE.
TRUNK:
1. You can weld trunks 6” on 6” off like the doors with max 4” wide by 1/8” thick flat plate or bolt trunk shut. You may use 2”x2”x1/4”x 6” max angle iron back to back welded on. If using an aluminum trunk, you may use 2 3/8” store bought bolts and hardware to secure angle iron to the trunk, aluminum trunk only, per trunk angle, or you may use 14 ½” bolts with store bought washer to secure trunk edge to trunk drip edge lip. There is only one option, weld or bolt. Not both.
2. You may crease the trunk and quarter panels. Quarters must be vertical, cannot be squeezed and sat on top of frame rails. Horizontal trunk pan outboard of the frame rail must stay the factory width. Lower quarters can be rolled under and bolted through the trunk pan only but those will count towards your 10 fender bolts.
3. Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added. 2, 8” inspection holes in the trunk lid prior to inspection. If you come up with no inspection holes, you will be sent back without being further inspected and that will count towards your total Inspections.
4. Bolting Trunk sheet metal is allowed using 4 - 3/8 bolts and 3/8 store bought washers max per hole. 2 holes max with bolts. No welding bolts, washers, nuts or sheet metal.
5. The 2 body mounts just behind rear end may extend thru the trunk lid and utilize a 5” washer max. 5/8” threaded rod only. Bottom nut and plate must remain inside the frame like from the factory.
6. Wagon tail gate can be welded 6” on 6” off like the doors with max 4” wide 1/8’ flat plate.
RADIATOR AND CORE SUPPORT:
1. Radiator must be in a stock position. Spray foam allowed, keep inside core support.
2. Any automotive type radiator can be used. Aluminum Radiators are LEGAL.
3. No homemade radiators or radiator supports allowed.
4. No reserve tanks and no added cooling capacity.
5. One electric fan, mounted to the radiator, may be used.
6. DO NOT MOVE CORE SUPPORT.
7. Factory condenser or 32” wide by 1/4" thick mesh radiator protector or 1/8" PLATE TYPE WITH DESIGN CUT INTO IT. You may use 6 1” welds or 6 ⅜” store bought bolts with store bought washers. Do not attach to Frame or Bumper.
8. Core Support Spacer MAY be Welded to the topside of the frame. Must run Vertical. 3”x3”x1/4” 8” max spacer all models (can not run spacer up through the core support)
9. (2) 3/8 threaded rod two 3"wide straps welded or utilize 1 3/8” bolt with store bought washer and nut to attach to core support with (2) 3/8 bolts per strap to hold radiator in.
10. 1” allthread max at core support. 5 store bought washers, nuts at 3 5”x1/4” washers.
BODY MOUNTS:
1. 5/8” max diameter body bolts, 8” max unless otherwise stated, washers and nuts must stay inside of the frame, no “pining”.
2. Round Body spacer is 1” thick by 3” diameter max
3. 5” washers max on top side of body, 3”x1/4” max washer inside of frame. 2 stores bought washers and nuts per bolt unless otherwise stated.
4. Any unibody model car may add 4 pieces of 5/8” threaded rod and extend thru the trunk lid. These cannot exceed 24” in length and must remain vertical. You will get 1 5” max washer on top side of trunk lid, and 1 3” washer on underside of body and 1 3” washer on top side of body, 3 store bought nuts and washers.
5. You may not add any body bolts, if it did not come from the factory with a bolt, you will lose it.
6. All body bolts and spacers must be floating, no welding allowed.
FRAMES:
1. No welding, plating, or reinforcing of the frame.
2. All factory frame holes must be left open.
3. Anything from number one of frame rules done to frame found will result in disqualification. NO FIXING, NO COMPROMISES, NO OPTIONS…You WILL Be LOADED!
4. Sub frame cars cannot be tied together. If you want to run a full frame car, buy a full frame car, don’t build one.
5. CORE SUPPORT AND CORE SUPPORT MOUNTING TAB MUST REMAIN IN FACTORY LOCATION AND UNTOUCHED you may shorten front frame rails to front the forward most part of the core support mounting tab.
6. Rear frame rails may not be shortened.
7. NO Frame shaping other than you can dimple your rear rails in 2 spots per rail behind the rear differential.
8. 98 up watt links conversion will be allowed only in the following way!! Upper trailing arm brackets must be bolted in. They must be 2 separate brackets, and may not be larger than 6”x 12”x 3/8” thick max. 4- 5/8 bolts, nuts and 8 washers per bracket. Brackets may only be bolted to the tow package and bolts may not stick through the body. Brackets may not strengthen the frame or body and may not extend into the gas tank protector. NO WELDING AT ALL OF UPPER BRACKETS.
9. 98 up watt links LOWER BRACKET Conversion. Only 1 way will be allowed to mount the lower trailing arm bracket. 1 piece of square tube 3”x 3”x 3/8”x 6” long max per side of frame may be used. Cut the square tube to make a C channel. It must be welded to the inboard of the frame (frame only, not package trey) at the point you want your trailing arm mounted. Drill your hole thru the tube and only 1 thickness of the frame. Bolt your arm into place. No other bolts will be allowed to mount this bracket. No factory mounting brackets will be allowed to mount the trailing arms. No EXTRA gussets allowed to connect your bracket to the package trey or frame.
10. You may run a store bought 3/8” chain from frame rail to frame rail behind the rear axle at the body bolt location just behind the rear end. One loop around each frame rail and bolted to itself with one ½” max bolt.
SUSPENSION:
1. Upper A-Arms are allowed to be welded down by using 2 pieces of 2”x3”x1/4” per arm (1 front & 1 Rear), No welding on the wishbone mount of the a-arms to the frame or a-arm/. Do not abuse this rule.
2. If you weld anywhere else on A-arm, or use a bigger strap than allowed; you will cut it all off and run working suspension, do not abuse this rule.
3. Tie rods must have factory appearing ends, No heims! You may brace the center tube with angle or pipe. Aftermarket is fine but must have a factory type end!
4. Factory spindle swaps are ok, ford to Chevy etc. GM factory lift spindles are ok (No fabricated spindles)
5. You may Replace ball joints, screw in or aftermarket are ok, no bolts or heims. You will be allowed to weld in a screw in ball joint ring, single pass 1/2” max weld with no added metal. You may “tack” joints in. Ball joint rings must not be larger in width and height than ½” larger than the ball joint housing.
6. You may change A-arms from new style to old style A-arms. Must bolt in factory location, no welding allowed to swap, no square body mounts on bubble cars. Factory a arm Center bars may be welded back in place like factory if removed for a arm fitment.
7. No All-Thread Shocks in front.
8. YOU MAY DOUBLE Coil SPRINGS for stiffness.
9. Any trailing arm, factory or loaded, no longer than a factory length, may be shortened. Must utilize one bolt on each end as a factory.
10. Sway bars must be bolted in factory position per year of vehicle being run, may be flipped and bolted to the lower control arm only. ½’ bolt max size.
11. You may use store bought spring spacers (no homemade spacers or spacers on top of the springs).
12. You may use a single strand #9 wire to hold coil spring to rear end.
13. All suspension and steering must remain stock (unless a modification is stated). No steering box adapters allowed. Aftermarket steering columns and shafts are allowed. These components may not strengthen the car in any way at any time. NO HYDRAULIC STEERING OF ANY KIND!
03 and newer:
Factory aluminum engine cradles in 2003 and newer cars may NOT be changed. No homemade cradles. Layover cradle allowed (SMW, Budde Cradle, NLR, etc…..) ⅜” thick max. Layover cradles must maintain a minimum gap of 1” away from frame rails at all times, can bolt through the aluminum cradle in 4 spots, and be pinched in between the frame mounting bolts and upper strut tower support bracket. Factory upper and lower control arms for 03+ fords. Factory steering rack and pinion for 03+ fords. You may utilize the spindle and ball joint rule above. YOU MAY NOT TILT A 03+ ANYWHERE.
REAR END:
1. Any automotive or aftermarket rear end braces must stay 5” from the frame.
2. Slider drive shaft is permitted.
3. MUST HAVE BRAKES!!!
4. You may chain or wire your axle to the frame hump. (2 CHAIN LINKS WELDED TO FRAME MAX) *NO OPENING CHAIN LINKS TO GAIN LENGTH*
5. Rear all thread shocks are allowed, not to be utilized as a body mount
TIRES:
1. Any Tires black and round. 16” max diameter
BUMPERS:
1. Bumpers must be an OEM loaded or an aftermarket replica bumper, and must conform to a OEM style
bumper, including but not limited to degree of angle, max point from frame mounting point to tip,
height of construction, width, no crazy deep points. Rear bumpers will be allowed to use a piece of 2”x8”x3/8” tubing with no added metal. Do not make us make a specification determination for you, use your better judgment!!! Must be a factory style bumper. We all want to go home at night.
2. Front Bumpers may be hard nosed or utilize a factory shock for your make, model, and year specific car in factory position. If you hard-nose a bumper, factory shock/bracket must be removed, and you are allowed a 3”x6”x1/4” flat plate on one side of the frame per frame rail to connect the bumper to the frame. If utilizing the factory shock, you are allowed a 3” wide ¼” flat strap butt welded to the back of the shock and to the front of the shock cup or frame. You may collapse and weld your shock tube solid. No welding on frame beyond the first 6”. Rear bumpers are allowed to be attached on all 4 sides of the frame, all plates must be exterior of the frame, ¼” thick max, and nothing beyond the first 6” of the frame. If you have questions about this please call!
3. If your car did not come with a shock, you are not allowed to utilize a shock, you will be allowed to follow the 3”x6”x1/4” flat plate rule #2 above.
4. YOU MAY BOLT A CHAIN FROM BUMPER TO BUMPER SHOCK on THE FRAME 3/8 MAX or weld a piece of strap (2”x2” x ¼”) from frame to bumper 1” overlap on each end. This is to aid in keeping bumpers off the track.
5. Bumpers can be no higher than 26” from the ground to the top of the bumper or lower than 14” from the ground to the bottom of the frame at the rear body mount. This rule will be strictly enforced, no swapping tires after inspection.
SAFETY CAGES:
(4 POINT WITH 32" GAS TANK PROTECTOR AND 2 DOWN BARS centered in the front door TO frame, top side only, may not cradle the frame.) 60” max overall cage measurement. 6” max. NO EXCEPTIONS!!!!!!
1. All cars must have a safety cage and roll over bar.
2. A 4-point cage is required. . Your cage must have a dash bar, a seat bar, and (2) side bars that extend past your dash bar. The side bars must not be welded to the rear humps.
3. Roll over bar cannot be more than 6” behind the driver's seat and must be in line with your rear seat bar. Roll over bar can attach to the sidebar only or rear seat bar only. Roll over bar can be bolted to the roof in 2 locations. 5/8” bolts max, with 1 5”x1/4” max washer, 2 store bought washer and 1 nut.
4. The cage can be welded to sheet metal only, the only part of the cage that can attach to the frame is the 4 down tubes. You must have a dash bar, a cross bar behind the seat and two (2) door cross bars.
5. Cage can be made out of 6” pipe or box tube MAX.
6. All down tubes must be straight up and down off the sidebar, centered in the front door opening attached to the TOP side of the frame only, The beveled edge is considered the side, not the top. This is for Drivers safety, not to strengthen your car.
7. Gas tank protectors are allowed and must attach to rear seat bar only...max 32" wide and may be bolted thru package frame with 2 ½" bolts 7” max long, 4 store bought washer, 2 store bought nuts and 2 5”x1/4” washers, you may not weld tank protector to the sheet metal. Your tank protector may have a halo that extends no further than 24” above the tank protector and no wider than 32”. May not be bolted or gusseted to anything besides the gas tank protector itself. Must Remain inside the passenger compartment. Must Be VERTICAL, If you do not understand, ask.
GAS TANKS AND FUEL PUMPS:
1. Stock gas tank MUST be removed from the original position and mounted in the rear seat area and secured. All tanks must have a secure cap. A marine tank or fuel cell is strongly recommended. All lines and fitting must be leak proof and meet approval of the track officials. Electric fuel pumps are allowed, must be mounted to the cage and secured.
2. All lines must be run inside the car, not along the frame underneath.
3. All Tanks, Trans coolers, and batteries must remain inside the dimensions of the cage provided. If your cage is too large, you will have to cut it and you may be required to relocate your cooler, battery, or tank.
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION: See rule 16 for full cradle/braced drivetrains
1. Any engine or OEM transmission may be used in any car, but must be mounted within 6” of the original motor. Engine cannot protrude into the passenger compartment before the race.
2. Aftermarket bell allowed, (steel or aluminum) bolted on with pump bolts only, NO added supports, no welding to the case, no dust covers. Tranny protectors, braces or mid plates not allowed. No aftermarket tail housings. You may plate the bottom side of your pan but nothing between the pan and the trans case. If running a stock factory case bellhousing, you will be allowed a skeleton transmission brace, attached to the bell housing bolts and the tail shaft housing bolts. See picture at bottom of rules for clarification. This in no way can be connected to or in contact with the crossmember in any shape or form or connected to the body in any shape or form. (See pictures below)
3. Engine cradle is limited to a simple front plate and lower cradle (NO HALO, NO SIDE BARS, NO MID PLATES)
4. Header protectors are allowed but may only be attached to the headers and headers only. Nothing else.
5. No Metal Fabricated Fan Shrouds. All Plastic, cardboard, or any material unless noted “Fan Shrouds” will need to wait to be put on until after inspection and before re-tech. Anything Found illegal under the shroud will result in Disqualification.
6. Aftermarket Motor Mounts are legal, Must have rubber or poly mount.
7. Only the lower engine mounts may be welded to engine crossmember only. You may use two 1/2" thick 6x6 spacers to raise the engine. These 6x6 spacers are just that, not extra plates. The spacers must be centered under the mounts themselves to raise them as intended. If you need more than ½” to raise the engine to clear steering components, it may not exceed the rubber mount area. You may extend the back of the engine cross member but nothing excessive, 1/2" flat plate only(example SBC in Caddy, Mopar) No welded motor mount or plate can connect to frame seam.
8. No chains allowed to hold the engine in if you are using a cradle and aftermarket mounts. If you use factory clams or cups or factory mounts, you may weld 3 chain links to the engine cup and 3 links to the mount, do not weld to frame or you will lose this.
9. Transmission oil coolers and engine oil coolers are permitted. They must be secure and contained and covered inside the car, for the driver’s protection.
10. NO valve cover protectors allowed, Spark Plug protectors ARE allowed but can not come in contact with the firewall, cage bar, or the trans tunnel.
11. BOP adaptors are allowed but can only be big enough to mount the trans on. Anything excessive will be cut.
12. Pulley protectors are allowed.
13. HOMEMADE Gas Pedals and Shifters Are Allowed, but may not reinforce the car in any way. No full floor plates.
14. OEM crossmember or 2”x2”x1/4” square tube, straight from inner surface of belly rail to inner surface of belly rail, no contoured or “bowed” tubing.
15. May weld a piece of 3”x3”x6”x1/4” angle to frame to aid in attaching crossmember, attached to frame and crossmember only for mounting purposes only.
16. If you have a D/P or mid plate and full cradle, you must cut all sheet metal 1 inch past all the way around DP. Engine mounts must have a rubber/poly bushing, must pivot, no drive line pressure. 8"x8"x1/2” mounting pad max. Must attach to the engine saddle and not the frame rails. No chains will be allowed on the engine. Pulley Protector cannot come in contact with the sway bar. If you have a full transmission brace you will be required to make relief cut(s). Follow crossmember rule number 14 and rule number 15 above. Transmission must be free floating and be able to slide back 3 inches. Do not plug weld, wire/cable or chain to keep the trans from sliding back.
Repair Rules:
Patch Plates:
Cars will be allowed 6- 4"X6"X 1/8" or ¼” patch plates. Pre runs will be allowed 8- 4"X6"X 1/8" or ¼” patch plates. You may use as you see fit, but must stay in one piece, if you cut off any part of the plate you lose the part you cut, it cannot be utilized in any way. You are allowed a 1/2" weld and plates must have 1" gap between them. Welds may touch but not overlap. NO EXCESSIVE WELDING. Do not abuse this. Do not use this for driveline pressure, cannot attach to engine, transmission or tubing crossmember.
9 Wire/Cable:
Cars will be allowed 10 spots, 4 loops per spot sheet metal to sheet metal. 8 spots cage to frame. NO BUNDLED WIRE. NO WRAPPED FRAMES. If using cable, 1 turnbuckle may be utilized with one strand of ⅜” cable and, cannot be “looped”. 4 cable clamps per cable. Do not abuse this. Do not use this for driveline pressure, cannot attach to engine, transmission or tubing crossmember.
Welding of frame seams, kinks, and rips must use a patch plate. Minimal BODY SEAM WELDING OR PATCHING.. DO NOT ABUSE THIS RULE.
Bone Stock Compact Rules
110” wheelbase or less. FWD and RWD are allowed, but NO FRAMERS
NO CARB SWAPS
Simplified harness ok.
Bumpers must remain 100% stock OEM that came with car and unaltered, NO
EXCEPTIONS. No welding or reinforcing. (NO STUFFING UNIBODIES, WE
WILL BE SCOPING THEM). You can have 2 strands of #9 wire per side from
bumper to core support to keep bumper from falling off.
Driver door can be welded solid. Passenger door can ONLY be welded if you
will have a passenger riding with you. This is not to strengthen the car in any
way; it is for driver safety ONLY.
Hood and trunk must be held shut with chain or #9 wire only. Both will be
enforced.
You can have a maximum of 4-point cage that does not extend more than 12”
behind seat. You can have fuel tank protector but it can only be wide enough to
protect fuel cell. (NOT DOOR TO DOOR). You can also have a halo bar.
All cars MUST have some sort of window bar or strap to keep the hood from
coming into the car.
(IF YOU HAVE A RIDER 4 POINT CAGE IS MANDATORY)
Fuel tank can stay under car if it is in front or rear axle or
Fuel tank must be removed and a metal boat tank or homemade metal tank
mounted in rear seat area .Factory tanks can be relocated in rear seat area as long as it doesn’t go from door to door. Battery (maximum of 2) needs to be mounted in passenger floorboard.
Suspension needs to remain stock other than you can weld strut shaft to make
car sit higher or can use store bought spring spacers
ABSOLUTELY NO BUILT STRUTS.
Any tire with small wheel centers ONLY.
If you plan to have a passenger, the passenger side door needs to have some
kind of padding along the inside of the cage.
PRE-RAN CARS WILL BE ALLOWED 3- 4X4 PATCH PLATE PER RAIL.
Fresh cars will be allowed 1- 4x4 plate per rail
BUMPER COVERS FRONT AND REAR MUST BE REMOVED OR YOU WILL NOT BE INSPECTED.
WE WILL RUN HEATS WITH MINIS SO COME PREPARED PAYING GOOD MONEY FOR THIS.
Gut and Go Big Car Class(100%stock class)
Most any passenger vehicle car manufactured 1980 or newer allowed.
No limos, hearses, vans, trucks, or SUVs. RWD or FWD cars allowed. No AWD or 4WD cars allowed.
Remove ALL glass, molding, bumper covers, interior, etc. Please completely strip car and un-needed items.
Battery and gas tank must be relocated inside the car. Both must be safely secured with no movement of any kind. Stock tank is allowed, but must be safely relocated and covered.
CARS MUST REMAIN STOCK! No engine swap, trans swap, or differential swap allowed (Ford-Ford, Chevy-Chevy, Mopar-Mopar, etc.). Fuel system must remain stock from factory. No carb swap (Carb-Carb, Fuel Injection-Fuel Injection, etc.).
Simplified harnesses are ok.
Headers are allowed!
Factory Rearend ONLY. Rear end gears may be welded to make posi. Any stuffed OEM style bumper or homemade bumpers are ok but point can be no larger than Chrysler pointy. Only front bumpers can be swapped. Rear to be oem that came on car . Rear suspension can be pulled down with single strand of chain or double strand of 9 wire per side to Limit suspension travel and or get rear lower. You may hardnose front bumper by removing shocks and butt welding it to frame can only shorten front rail no more than 1 inch to give a flat surface to weld to. Bumper may be welded to factory mount or to front of frame if shock removed.
No slider drive shafts allowed.
4-point cage ONLY. You are allowed 2 down tubes per side, but they cannot connect to the frame. Your roll bar cannot go below the back seat bar; if it does it will be counted as one of the down tubes.
Stock steering column ONLY. No after market.
Stock pedals and shifters ONLY. No after market.
No frame tilting. No welding of any type on frame. No plates. No body creasing, welding, or bolting of any type.
You may notch rear frame rails to get it to bend the way you want it to.
Trunk deck must remain in stock location. Hood, and trunk must be wired or chained shut. Hoods may be fastened down in a max of 5 places with #9 wire or chain. Front doors may be welded shut for driver and rider safety but rear doors on a 4 door must be held shut with wire or chain only.
Trunk can be prebent by folding rear into trunk or a simple V. Quarters must remain untouched and rear speaker deck must be untouched in stock location.
. Any style rubber tire allowed.
Stock suspension ONLY. Only exception you will be allowed 1- 2x3 1/4” thick piece of strap per side to weld to a-arms to lock suspension at ride height you want. With this being said front bumper can be no higher than 21” from bottom of bumper to ground. This is a strictly STOCK and FUN class! Simple rules, simple build, so keep it that way. Do not get "creative" or read into these rules, let’s get back to the basics. If it is not clearly described above, it is not allowed. If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T f the radiator. Trunk may be wired or chained in a max of 5 places.
Pre ran cars will get 3-4x4 plates per side of car to be used as needed
Fresh cars will get 1- 4x4 plate per side
!! All officials’ decisions are final.
Stock Minivan Class
Any FWD Unibody Minivan may be used
1.You may move wire harness to rear of engine but not inside van.
2.No carb swaps or distributor swaps. , No aftermarket shifters, No aftermarket pedals. Headers are ok but cannot strengthen van in any way.
Simplified harnesses are ok
3. Bumpers must remain stock but can be swapped from any 80s and newer passenger car they can be loaded, or you will be allowed a piece of 4”x4”x ¼ tubing no longer than 60”. Square frame and butt weld only. (NO STUFFING UNI BODIES WE WILL BE CHECKING). You may have 2 strands of 9 wire per side from bumper to core support to keep bumper from falling off.
4. Drivers door and front passenger door may be welded solid with no wider than 3inch strap for safety. All other doors may be welded with no more than 6 inch of strapping and you may cut that up as needed. These doors can also be wired or chained shut.
5.Hood and Hatch must be held shut with chain or 9 wire only. 4 spots max with 4 strands per location. Hood must be open for inspection.
6. You can have a maximum of 4 point cage that does not exceed more than 12 inches behind seat. You Can have a tank protector but can only be as wide as fuel cell not door to door. Halo bar is also ok and can only be bolted to roof in 2 places.
7. Must have some sort of window bar to keep hood from entering drivers compartment.
8. Factory tank can be utilized as long as it is in front of rear axle and secure. If tank is removed a fuel cell must be mounted inside rear seat area. Battery must be moved to passenger floorboard area and secured.
9. Suspension must remain stock except strut shaft may be welded to set ride height. You may also chain or wire to limit suspension travel. This may be done with one spot per wheel consisting of 4 strands of 9 wire around unibody area or1- 3/8 chain with a 4 inch long bolt. Do not abuse this rule.
10. Any tire with small wheel centers only.
11. Prerans will get 3- 4x4 plates per rail for repairs.
12. Fresh get 1- 4x4 plates per rail.
ALL INTERIOR EXCEPT FRONT SEATS AND DASH MUST BE REMOVED OR YOU WILL NO BE INSPECTED OR RUN NO EXCEPTIONS.
If you have a question regarding the rules please contact Josh Baker
618-697- 0743.
Payouts Per Class Stock mini County Fair Pro Stock Mini Van Gut-N-Go Big
1st $1500 $2000 $1000 $1000
2nd $800 $1000 $500 $500
3rd $400 $500 $300 $300
Trophies will be given for top 3 and maddog in all classes.
Friday and Saturday Aug. 23rd and 24th
Anna IL. Starts at 7pm both nights. Tech will begin at 3pm and end no later than 6:30pm
Will run Gut-N-Go Big Cars, Bone Stock Minis, Mini Vans, and County Fair Pro Stock Big Cars both night.
Powerwheels will run both nights ages 3yrs-10yrs
Presented by Baker Racing
Questions on rules call or text josh baker (618)697-0743 or Joshua Baker on FB. (RULES POSTED ON WECRASH.) we-crash.proboards.com
County Fair Pro Stock Rules:
DO NOT READ ANYTHING INTO THESE RULES, JUST READ THE RULES!! If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T! Or you will be loaded, your choice! This is a 0 Tolerance show, do not show up excessively built. NO black cars, dark cars must have contrasting letters/numbers. DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame; we will not even inspect your car. - Strip/Remove all materials down to metal shells, which include all glass, plastics, carpets, fabrics, moldings and such. Remove all decking in wagons.
Any American made production car or station wagon except Chrysler Imperials, no trucks, suvs, vans, or such. - Body components must be directly bolted up only. Must be factory hardware or equivalent in size.
BRAND SPECIFIC RULES:
Metric GM, Ford, Lincoln, And Mercury
You are allowed a 6” x 22” x 1/4” thick flat arch plate and it MUST BE CENTERED and CONTOURED on the wheel side of the hump. 3 Plug weld holes no bigger than 2” and no welds bigger than ½" to attach hump plate to frame. It is not allowed to attach the hump plate to the body.
Metric Ford, Lincoln and Mercury
You are allowed to cut the 3 tabs at the box to tilt with the tabs being rewelded over like they came from the factory, ½’ weld max. 8” core support spacer allowed. Must be VERTICAL and cannot run through the support. 03 up please follow 03 section.
Metric Gm
You may Tilt your car at the cross member by 1 Single pie cut with a single ½" weld, no plate may be added besides cross member mounting per rules below.
MOPAR
You are allowed a 8 leaf spring pack, 5 Clamps per leaf pack, use as you wish front or back of rear differential, no duct tape, no wire, no chain to be used, just 5 clamps. Factory spring thickness(5/16ths”) and width per year of Chrysler. 2” STAGGER ON SPRINGS. If running a pinch frame style Mopar, YOU MAY ALSO CHANGE YOUR 4 FRONT SUB/K FRAME BOLTS to 1” diameter and suck sub/k frame to body. If you chose not to change leaf springs and keep them factory, you may utilize the 1976 and prior sedan hump plate rule.
1976 and prior sedan
YOU ARE ALLOWED A 6” x 12” x 1/4” THICK FLAT ARCH PLATE. MUST BE CENTERED and Contoured ON THE HUMP AND ON THE WHEEL SIDE OF THE HUMP. 3 Plug weld holes no bigger than 2” and no welds bigger than ½" to attach hump plate to frame.
1976 and prior station wagon
Rear leaf springs must remain factory thickness and width per leaf. You may have up to 8 springs with 2” stagger, no doubling main leafs. 5 clamps total per pack. Rear 4 body mounts behind rear axle may utilize 5/8” threaded rod with 3 store bought washers, nuts and 2 5” max washer ¼" thick per rod and extend thru roof, cannot be nutted above and below roof sheet metal, plate, washer and nut must be on top of roof metal.
BODY:
1. No body seams may be welded. No metal may be added. You will cut more than you welded.
2. No doubling of body panels allowed, no added metal allowed.
3. BODY CREASING IS LIMITED TO Front Fenders, REAR QUARTER PANELS AND TRUNK ONLY.
4. Fenders may be bolted together. Max of 10- 3/8” BOLTS with 2” od store bought washer
ABOVE THE FENDER WELL, no further than a hand width from wheel well opening.
Doors may be chained, wired, or welded. When welding the doors, 6in on 6in off all the way around. 3”x1/8” strap or ½” filler rod.
DRIVER SAFETY:
1. Driver's Door can be welded SOLID and may have a ⅛” door plate on outside of the door that extends no further than 6” past either door seam or inside which may be ¼” flat plate, not both, must not connect to the frame in any form or manner.
2. Passenger door must be welded 6 inches on 6 off. May have a 1 ⁄ 4 '' flat plate door plate on the inside of the door ONLY, no taller than the side bar and not connected to the frame in any form or manner.
3. 2 batteries max, bolted to the floor or welded to the cage, must be covered. Battery boxes may not contain a full floor plate.
4. Hood must be 100% in stock location and open for inspection.
5. Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added.
6. Hoods must have a 4x4" min. hole cut on each side of Carb. Bolting hood sheet metal is allowed using 8 - 3/8 bolts and 3/8 store bought washers max. No welding bolts, washers, nuts or sheet metal.
7. Hoods may only be secured shut in 6 spots Max by bolting, 4 strands of #9 wire max, 1 strand of chain, 3/8 chain, bolt and nut max. No welding of chain or wire.
8. If the bolting hood is shut you may use 2”x2”x1/4”x 6” max angle iron back to back welded on. If using an aluminum hood, you may use 2 3/8” store bought bolts and hardware to secure angle iron to the hood, aluminum hood only, per hood angle. Or you may weld 2”x2”x1/4”x 6” angle down the inside of the fender under the hood in 6 spots and run a 5/8 bolt 8” long max with a 5” max outer diameter washer for hood plates. Sheet metal to sheet metal only for any of these methods. Maximum of 6 spots to secure the hood. If using a core support body bolt to secure the hood, it may be 1” threaded rod and extend 6” above the upper part of core support. These count toward your 6 hood bolts.
9. If you are wiring hood shuts a 1” inside diameter store bought washer may be welded to sheet metal for wire to run through.
10. No welding, bolting, wiring, taping or chaining of body unless stated.
11. No adding metal or any other material to strengthen the body unless stated.
12. Front Windshield area must have a chain, wire or bar. 2 spots of wire or chain or 2 Flat bars max ( 2”x 1/4”). No more than 6” of bar may overlap onto the body or windshield cowling. Bars may connect together in 1 spot only. Must not interfere with the drive train at any moment before, during or after the show.
13. Rear window opening on sedans only may utilize a 2”x2”x1/4” rear window bar welded or bolted 6” on roof line and 6” on truck lid, no further than 2” behind front drip edge. Wagons may use a 4” wide ¼” strap to weld from roof line to tailgate, no more than 6” of weld on roof or tailgate.
14. Fresh Sedagons are NOT allowed.
15. NO RUST REPAIR BESIDES MOUNTING SEAT, BATTERIES, FUEL TANK, AND PEDALS. BOLT OR WELD OEM THICKNESS MATERIAL WITHIN REASON TO MOUNT THEM SAFELY. NOT UP FOR DEBATE!!!! IF YOU WANT A CLEAN CAR, BUY ONE.
TRUNK:
1. You can weld trunks 6” on 6” off like the doors with max 4” wide by 1/8” thick flat plate or bolt trunk shut. You may use 2”x2”x1/4”x 6” max angle iron back to back welded on. If using an aluminum trunk, you may use 2 3/8” store bought bolts and hardware to secure angle iron to the trunk, aluminum trunk only, per trunk angle, or you may use 14 ½” bolts with store bought washer to secure trunk edge to trunk drip edge lip. There is only one option, weld or bolt. Not both.
2. You may crease the trunk and quarter panels. Quarters must be vertical, cannot be squeezed and sat on top of frame rails. Horizontal trunk pan outboard of the frame rail must stay the factory width. Lower quarters can be rolled under and bolted through the trunk pan only but those will count towards your 10 fender bolts.
3. Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added. 2, 8” inspection holes in the trunk lid prior to inspection. If you come up with no inspection holes, you will be sent back without being further inspected and that will count towards your total Inspections.
4. Bolting Trunk sheet metal is allowed using 4 - 3/8 bolts and 3/8 store bought washers max per hole. 2 holes max with bolts. No welding bolts, washers, nuts or sheet metal.
5. The 2 body mounts just behind rear end may extend thru the trunk lid and utilize a 5” washer max. 5/8” threaded rod only. Bottom nut and plate must remain inside the frame like from the factory.
6. Wagon tail gate can be welded 6” on 6” off like the doors with max 4” wide 1/8’ flat plate.
RADIATOR AND CORE SUPPORT:
1. Radiator must be in a stock position. Spray foam allowed, keep inside core support.
2. Any automotive type radiator can be used. Aluminum Radiators are LEGAL.
3. No homemade radiators or radiator supports allowed.
4. No reserve tanks and no added cooling capacity.
5. One electric fan, mounted to the radiator, may be used.
6. DO NOT MOVE CORE SUPPORT.
7. Factory condenser or 32” wide by 1/4" thick mesh radiator protector or 1/8" PLATE TYPE WITH DESIGN CUT INTO IT. You may use 6 1” welds or 6 ⅜” store bought bolts with store bought washers. Do not attach to Frame or Bumper.
8. Core Support Spacer MAY be Welded to the topside of the frame. Must run Vertical. 3”x3”x1/4” 8” max spacer all models (can not run spacer up through the core support)
9. (2) 3/8 threaded rod two 3"wide straps welded or utilize 1 3/8” bolt with store bought washer and nut to attach to core support with (2) 3/8 bolts per strap to hold radiator in.
10. 1” allthread max at core support. 5 store bought washers, nuts at 3 5”x1/4” washers.
BODY MOUNTS:
1. 5/8” max diameter body bolts, 8” max unless otherwise stated, washers and nuts must stay inside of the frame, no “pining”.
2. Round Body spacer is 1” thick by 3” diameter max
3. 5” washers max on top side of body, 3”x1/4” max washer inside of frame. 2 stores bought washers and nuts per bolt unless otherwise stated.
4. Any unibody model car may add 4 pieces of 5/8” threaded rod and extend thru the trunk lid. These cannot exceed 24” in length and must remain vertical. You will get 1 5” max washer on top side of trunk lid, and 1 3” washer on underside of body and 1 3” washer on top side of body, 3 store bought nuts and washers.
5. You may not add any body bolts, if it did not come from the factory with a bolt, you will lose it.
6. All body bolts and spacers must be floating, no welding allowed.
FRAMES:
1. No welding, plating, or reinforcing of the frame.
2. All factory frame holes must be left open.
3. Anything from number one of frame rules done to frame found will result in disqualification. NO FIXING, NO COMPROMISES, NO OPTIONS…You WILL Be LOADED!
4. Sub frame cars cannot be tied together. If you want to run a full frame car, buy a full frame car, don’t build one.
5. CORE SUPPORT AND CORE SUPPORT MOUNTING TAB MUST REMAIN IN FACTORY LOCATION AND UNTOUCHED you may shorten front frame rails to front the forward most part of the core support mounting tab.
6. Rear frame rails may not be shortened.
7. NO Frame shaping other than you can dimple your rear rails in 2 spots per rail behind the rear differential.
8. 98 up watt links conversion will be allowed only in the following way!! Upper trailing arm brackets must be bolted in. They must be 2 separate brackets, and may not be larger than 6”x 12”x 3/8” thick max. 4- 5/8 bolts, nuts and 8 washers per bracket. Brackets may only be bolted to the tow package and bolts may not stick through the body. Brackets may not strengthen the frame or body and may not extend into the gas tank protector. NO WELDING AT ALL OF UPPER BRACKETS.
9. 98 up watt links LOWER BRACKET Conversion. Only 1 way will be allowed to mount the lower trailing arm bracket. 1 piece of square tube 3”x 3”x 3/8”x 6” long max per side of frame may be used. Cut the square tube to make a C channel. It must be welded to the inboard of the frame (frame only, not package trey) at the point you want your trailing arm mounted. Drill your hole thru the tube and only 1 thickness of the frame. Bolt your arm into place. No other bolts will be allowed to mount this bracket. No factory mounting brackets will be allowed to mount the trailing arms. No EXTRA gussets allowed to connect your bracket to the package trey or frame.
10. You may run a store bought 3/8” chain from frame rail to frame rail behind the rear axle at the body bolt location just behind the rear end. One loop around each frame rail and bolted to itself with one ½” max bolt.
SUSPENSION:
1. Upper A-Arms are allowed to be welded down by using 2 pieces of 2”x3”x1/4” per arm (1 front & 1 Rear), No welding on the wishbone mount of the a-arms to the frame or a-arm/. Do not abuse this rule.
2. If you weld anywhere else on A-arm, or use a bigger strap than allowed; you will cut it all off and run working suspension, do not abuse this rule.
3. Tie rods must have factory appearing ends, No heims! You may brace the center tube with angle or pipe. Aftermarket is fine but must have a factory type end!
4. Factory spindle swaps are ok, ford to Chevy etc. GM factory lift spindles are ok (No fabricated spindles)
5. You may Replace ball joints, screw in or aftermarket are ok, no bolts or heims. You will be allowed to weld in a screw in ball joint ring, single pass 1/2” max weld with no added metal. You may “tack” joints in. Ball joint rings must not be larger in width and height than ½” larger than the ball joint housing.
6. You may change A-arms from new style to old style A-arms. Must bolt in factory location, no welding allowed to swap, no square body mounts on bubble cars. Factory a arm Center bars may be welded back in place like factory if removed for a arm fitment.
7. No All-Thread Shocks in front.
8. YOU MAY DOUBLE Coil SPRINGS for stiffness.
9. Any trailing arm, factory or loaded, no longer than a factory length, may be shortened. Must utilize one bolt on each end as a factory.
10. Sway bars must be bolted in factory position per year of vehicle being run, may be flipped and bolted to the lower control arm only. ½’ bolt max size.
11. You may use store bought spring spacers (no homemade spacers or spacers on top of the springs).
12. You may use a single strand #9 wire to hold coil spring to rear end.
13. All suspension and steering must remain stock (unless a modification is stated). No steering box adapters allowed. Aftermarket steering columns and shafts are allowed. These components may not strengthen the car in any way at any time. NO HYDRAULIC STEERING OF ANY KIND!
03 and newer:
Factory aluminum engine cradles in 2003 and newer cars may NOT be changed. No homemade cradles. Layover cradle allowed (SMW, Budde Cradle, NLR, etc…..) ⅜” thick max. Layover cradles must maintain a minimum gap of 1” away from frame rails at all times, can bolt through the aluminum cradle in 4 spots, and be pinched in between the frame mounting bolts and upper strut tower support bracket. Factory upper and lower control arms for 03+ fords. Factory steering rack and pinion for 03+ fords. You may utilize the spindle and ball joint rule above. YOU MAY NOT TILT A 03+ ANYWHERE.
REAR END:
1. Any automotive or aftermarket rear end braces must stay 5” from the frame.
2. Slider drive shaft is permitted.
3. MUST HAVE BRAKES!!!
4. You may chain or wire your axle to the frame hump. (2 CHAIN LINKS WELDED TO FRAME MAX) *NO OPENING CHAIN LINKS TO GAIN LENGTH*
5. Rear all thread shocks are allowed, not to be utilized as a body mount
TIRES:
1. Any Tires black and round. 16” max diameter
BUMPERS:
1. Bumpers must be an OEM loaded or an aftermarket replica bumper, and must conform to a OEM style
bumper, including but not limited to degree of angle, max point from frame mounting point to tip,
height of construction, width, no crazy deep points. Rear bumpers will be allowed to use a piece of 2”x8”x3/8” tubing with no added metal. Do not make us make a specification determination for you, use your better judgment!!! Must be a factory style bumper. We all want to go home at night.
2. Front Bumpers may be hard nosed or utilize a factory shock for your make, model, and year specific car in factory position. If you hard-nose a bumper, factory shock/bracket must be removed, and you are allowed a 3”x6”x1/4” flat plate on one side of the frame per frame rail to connect the bumper to the frame. If utilizing the factory shock, you are allowed a 3” wide ¼” flat strap butt welded to the back of the shock and to the front of the shock cup or frame. You may collapse and weld your shock tube solid. No welding on frame beyond the first 6”. Rear bumpers are allowed to be attached on all 4 sides of the frame, all plates must be exterior of the frame, ¼” thick max, and nothing beyond the first 6” of the frame. If you have questions about this please call!
3. If your car did not come with a shock, you are not allowed to utilize a shock, you will be allowed to follow the 3”x6”x1/4” flat plate rule #2 above.
4. YOU MAY BOLT A CHAIN FROM BUMPER TO BUMPER SHOCK on THE FRAME 3/8 MAX or weld a piece of strap (2”x2” x ¼”) from frame to bumper 1” overlap on each end. This is to aid in keeping bumpers off the track.
5. Bumpers can be no higher than 26” from the ground to the top of the bumper or lower than 14” from the ground to the bottom of the frame at the rear body mount. This rule will be strictly enforced, no swapping tires after inspection.
SAFETY CAGES:
(4 POINT WITH 32" GAS TANK PROTECTOR AND 2 DOWN BARS centered in the front door TO frame, top side only, may not cradle the frame.) 60” max overall cage measurement. 6” max. NO EXCEPTIONS!!!!!!
1. All cars must have a safety cage and roll over bar.
2. A 4-point cage is required. . Your cage must have a dash bar, a seat bar, and (2) side bars that extend past your dash bar. The side bars must not be welded to the rear humps.
3. Roll over bar cannot be more than 6” behind the driver's seat and must be in line with your rear seat bar. Roll over bar can attach to the sidebar only or rear seat bar only. Roll over bar can be bolted to the roof in 2 locations. 5/8” bolts max, with 1 5”x1/4” max washer, 2 store bought washer and 1 nut.
4. The cage can be welded to sheet metal only, the only part of the cage that can attach to the frame is the 4 down tubes. You must have a dash bar, a cross bar behind the seat and two (2) door cross bars.
5. Cage can be made out of 6” pipe or box tube MAX.
6. All down tubes must be straight up and down off the sidebar, centered in the front door opening attached to the TOP side of the frame only, The beveled edge is considered the side, not the top. This is for Drivers safety, not to strengthen your car.
7. Gas tank protectors are allowed and must attach to rear seat bar only...max 32" wide and may be bolted thru package frame with 2 ½" bolts 7” max long, 4 store bought washer, 2 store bought nuts and 2 5”x1/4” washers, you may not weld tank protector to the sheet metal. Your tank protector may have a halo that extends no further than 24” above the tank protector and no wider than 32”. May not be bolted or gusseted to anything besides the gas tank protector itself. Must Remain inside the passenger compartment. Must Be VERTICAL, If you do not understand, ask.
GAS TANKS AND FUEL PUMPS:
1. Stock gas tank MUST be removed from the original position and mounted in the rear seat area and secured. All tanks must have a secure cap. A marine tank or fuel cell is strongly recommended. All lines and fitting must be leak proof and meet approval of the track officials. Electric fuel pumps are allowed, must be mounted to the cage and secured.
2. All lines must be run inside the car, not along the frame underneath.
3. All Tanks, Trans coolers, and batteries must remain inside the dimensions of the cage provided. If your cage is too large, you will have to cut it and you may be required to relocate your cooler, battery, or tank.
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION: See rule 16 for full cradle/braced drivetrains
1. Any engine or OEM transmission may be used in any car, but must be mounted within 6” of the original motor. Engine cannot protrude into the passenger compartment before the race.
2. Aftermarket bell allowed, (steel or aluminum) bolted on with pump bolts only, NO added supports, no welding to the case, no dust covers. Tranny protectors, braces or mid plates not allowed. No aftermarket tail housings. You may plate the bottom side of your pan but nothing between the pan and the trans case. If running a stock factory case bellhousing, you will be allowed a skeleton transmission brace, attached to the bell housing bolts and the tail shaft housing bolts. See picture at bottom of rules for clarification. This in no way can be connected to or in contact with the crossmember in any shape or form or connected to the body in any shape or form. (See pictures below)
3. Engine cradle is limited to a simple front plate and lower cradle (NO HALO, NO SIDE BARS, NO MID PLATES)
4. Header protectors are allowed but may only be attached to the headers and headers only. Nothing else.
5. No Metal Fabricated Fan Shrouds. All Plastic, cardboard, or any material unless noted “Fan Shrouds” will need to wait to be put on until after inspection and before re-tech. Anything Found illegal under the shroud will result in Disqualification.
6. Aftermarket Motor Mounts are legal, Must have rubber or poly mount.
7. Only the lower engine mounts may be welded to engine crossmember only. You may use two 1/2" thick 6x6 spacers to raise the engine. These 6x6 spacers are just that, not extra plates. The spacers must be centered under the mounts themselves to raise them as intended. If you need more than ½” to raise the engine to clear steering components, it may not exceed the rubber mount area. You may extend the back of the engine cross member but nothing excessive, 1/2" flat plate only(example SBC in Caddy, Mopar) No welded motor mount or plate can connect to frame seam.
8. No chains allowed to hold the engine in if you are using a cradle and aftermarket mounts. If you use factory clams or cups or factory mounts, you may weld 3 chain links to the engine cup and 3 links to the mount, do not weld to frame or you will lose this.
9. Transmission oil coolers and engine oil coolers are permitted. They must be secure and contained and covered inside the car, for the driver’s protection.
10. NO valve cover protectors allowed, Spark Plug protectors ARE allowed but can not come in contact with the firewall, cage bar, or the trans tunnel.
11. BOP adaptors are allowed but can only be big enough to mount the trans on. Anything excessive will be cut.
12. Pulley protectors are allowed.
13. HOMEMADE Gas Pedals and Shifters Are Allowed, but may not reinforce the car in any way. No full floor plates.
14. OEM crossmember or 2”x2”x1/4” square tube, straight from inner surface of belly rail to inner surface of belly rail, no contoured or “bowed” tubing.
15. May weld a piece of 3”x3”x6”x1/4” angle to frame to aid in attaching crossmember, attached to frame and crossmember only for mounting purposes only.
16. If you have a D/P or mid plate and full cradle, you must cut all sheet metal 1 inch past all the way around DP. Engine mounts must have a rubber/poly bushing, must pivot, no drive line pressure. 8"x8"x1/2” mounting pad max. Must attach to the engine saddle and not the frame rails. No chains will be allowed on the engine. Pulley Protector cannot come in contact with the sway bar. If you have a full transmission brace you will be required to make relief cut(s). Follow crossmember rule number 14 and rule number 15 above. Transmission must be free floating and be able to slide back 3 inches. Do not plug weld, wire/cable or chain to keep the trans from sliding back.
Repair Rules:
Patch Plates:
Cars will be allowed 6- 4"X6"X 1/8" or ¼” patch plates. Pre runs will be allowed 8- 4"X6"X 1/8" or ¼” patch plates. You may use as you see fit, but must stay in one piece, if you cut off any part of the plate you lose the part you cut, it cannot be utilized in any way. You are allowed a 1/2" weld and plates must have 1" gap between them. Welds may touch but not overlap. NO EXCESSIVE WELDING. Do not abuse this. Do not use this for driveline pressure, cannot attach to engine, transmission or tubing crossmember.
9 Wire/Cable:
Cars will be allowed 10 spots, 4 loops per spot sheet metal to sheet metal. 8 spots cage to frame. NO BUNDLED WIRE. NO WRAPPED FRAMES. If using cable, 1 turnbuckle may be utilized with one strand of ⅜” cable and, cannot be “looped”. 4 cable clamps per cable. Do not abuse this. Do not use this for driveline pressure, cannot attach to engine, transmission or tubing crossmember.
Welding of frame seams, kinks, and rips must use a patch plate. Minimal BODY SEAM WELDING OR PATCHING.. DO NOT ABUSE THIS RULE.
Bone Stock Compact Rules
110” wheelbase or less. FWD and RWD are allowed, but NO FRAMERS
NO CARB SWAPS
Simplified harness ok.
Bumpers must remain 100% stock OEM that came with car and unaltered, NO
EXCEPTIONS. No welding or reinforcing. (NO STUFFING UNIBODIES, WE
WILL BE SCOPING THEM). You can have 2 strands of #9 wire per side from
bumper to core support to keep bumper from falling off.
Driver door can be welded solid. Passenger door can ONLY be welded if you
will have a passenger riding with you. This is not to strengthen the car in any
way; it is for driver safety ONLY.
Hood and trunk must be held shut with chain or #9 wire only. Both will be
enforced.
You can have a maximum of 4-point cage that does not extend more than 12”
behind seat. You can have fuel tank protector but it can only be wide enough to
protect fuel cell. (NOT DOOR TO DOOR). You can also have a halo bar.
All cars MUST have some sort of window bar or strap to keep the hood from
coming into the car.
(IF YOU HAVE A RIDER 4 POINT CAGE IS MANDATORY)
Fuel tank can stay under car if it is in front or rear axle or
Fuel tank must be removed and a metal boat tank or homemade metal tank
mounted in rear seat area .Factory tanks can be relocated in rear seat area as long as it doesn’t go from door to door. Battery (maximum of 2) needs to be mounted in passenger floorboard.
Suspension needs to remain stock other than you can weld strut shaft to make
car sit higher or can use store bought spring spacers
ABSOLUTELY NO BUILT STRUTS.
Any tire with small wheel centers ONLY.
If you plan to have a passenger, the passenger side door needs to have some
kind of padding along the inside of the cage.
PRE-RAN CARS WILL BE ALLOWED 3- 4X4 PATCH PLATE PER RAIL.
Fresh cars will be allowed 1- 4x4 plate per rail
BUMPER COVERS FRONT AND REAR MUST BE REMOVED OR YOU WILL NOT BE INSPECTED.
WE WILL RUN HEATS WITH MINIS SO COME PREPARED PAYING GOOD MONEY FOR THIS.
Gut and Go Big Car Class(100%stock class)
Most any passenger vehicle car manufactured 1980 or newer allowed.
No limos, hearses, vans, trucks, or SUVs. RWD or FWD cars allowed. No AWD or 4WD cars allowed.
Remove ALL glass, molding, bumper covers, interior, etc. Please completely strip car and un-needed items.
Battery and gas tank must be relocated inside the car. Both must be safely secured with no movement of any kind. Stock tank is allowed, but must be safely relocated and covered.
CARS MUST REMAIN STOCK! No engine swap, trans swap, or differential swap allowed (Ford-Ford, Chevy-Chevy, Mopar-Mopar, etc.). Fuel system must remain stock from factory. No carb swap (Carb-Carb, Fuel Injection-Fuel Injection, etc.).
Simplified harnesses are ok.
Headers are allowed!
Factory Rearend ONLY. Rear end gears may be welded to make posi. Any stuffed OEM style bumper or homemade bumpers are ok but point can be no larger than Chrysler pointy. Only front bumpers can be swapped. Rear to be oem that came on car . Rear suspension can be pulled down with single strand of chain or double strand of 9 wire per side to Limit suspension travel and or get rear lower. You may hardnose front bumper by removing shocks and butt welding it to frame can only shorten front rail no more than 1 inch to give a flat surface to weld to. Bumper may be welded to factory mount or to front of frame if shock removed.
No slider drive shafts allowed.
4-point cage ONLY. You are allowed 2 down tubes per side, but they cannot connect to the frame. Your roll bar cannot go below the back seat bar; if it does it will be counted as one of the down tubes.
Stock steering column ONLY. No after market.
Stock pedals and shifters ONLY. No after market.
No frame tilting. No welding of any type on frame. No plates. No body creasing, welding, or bolting of any type.
You may notch rear frame rails to get it to bend the way you want it to.
Trunk deck must remain in stock location. Hood, and trunk must be wired or chained shut. Hoods may be fastened down in a max of 5 places with #9 wire or chain. Front doors may be welded shut for driver and rider safety but rear doors on a 4 door must be held shut with wire or chain only.
Trunk can be prebent by folding rear into trunk or a simple V. Quarters must remain untouched and rear speaker deck must be untouched in stock location.
. Any style rubber tire allowed.
Stock suspension ONLY. Only exception you will be allowed 1- 2x3 1/4” thick piece of strap per side to weld to a-arms to lock suspension at ride height you want. With this being said front bumper can be no higher than 21” from bottom of bumper to ground. This is a strictly STOCK and FUN class! Simple rules, simple build, so keep it that way. Do not get "creative" or read into these rules, let’s get back to the basics. If it is not clearly described above, it is not allowed. If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T f the radiator. Trunk may be wired or chained in a max of 5 places.
Pre ran cars will get 3-4x4 plates per side of car to be used as needed
Fresh cars will get 1- 4x4 plate per side
!! All officials’ decisions are final.
Stock Minivan Class
Any FWD Unibody Minivan may be used
1.You may move wire harness to rear of engine but not inside van.
2.No carb swaps or distributor swaps. , No aftermarket shifters, No aftermarket pedals. Headers are ok but cannot strengthen van in any way.
Simplified harnesses are ok
3. Bumpers must remain stock but can be swapped from any 80s and newer passenger car they can be loaded, or you will be allowed a piece of 4”x4”x ¼ tubing no longer than 60”. Square frame and butt weld only. (NO STUFFING UNI BODIES WE WILL BE CHECKING). You may have 2 strands of 9 wire per side from bumper to core support to keep bumper from falling off.
4. Drivers door and front passenger door may be welded solid with no wider than 3inch strap for safety. All other doors may be welded with no more than 6 inch of strapping and you may cut that up as needed. These doors can also be wired or chained shut.
5.Hood and Hatch must be held shut with chain or 9 wire only. 4 spots max with 4 strands per location. Hood must be open for inspection.
6. You can have a maximum of 4 point cage that does not exceed more than 12 inches behind seat. You Can have a tank protector but can only be as wide as fuel cell not door to door. Halo bar is also ok and can only be bolted to roof in 2 places.
7. Must have some sort of window bar to keep hood from entering drivers compartment.
8. Factory tank can be utilized as long as it is in front of rear axle and secure. If tank is removed a fuel cell must be mounted inside rear seat area. Battery must be moved to passenger floorboard area and secured.
9. Suspension must remain stock except strut shaft may be welded to set ride height. You may also chain or wire to limit suspension travel. This may be done with one spot per wheel consisting of 4 strands of 9 wire around unibody area or1- 3/8 chain with a 4 inch long bolt. Do not abuse this rule.
10. Any tire with small wheel centers only.
11. Prerans will get 3- 4x4 plates per rail for repairs.
12. Fresh get 1- 4x4 plates per rail.
ALL INTERIOR EXCEPT FRONT SEATS AND DASH MUST BE REMOVED OR YOU WILL NO BE INSPECTED OR RUN NO EXCEPTIONS.
If you have a question regarding the rules please contact Josh Baker
618-697- 0743.
Payouts Per Class Stock mini County Fair Pro Stock Mini Van Gut-N-Go Big
1st $1500 $2000 $1000 $1000
2nd $800 $1000 $500 $500
3rd $400 $500 $300 $300
Trophies will be given for top 3 and maddog in all classes.