Post by mewes5x on Apr 17, 2023 13:53:28 GMT -5
aug 19th 6pm start time
CLASSES
full size street stock
1ST $4000
2ND $2000
3RD $1000
4TH $400
FWD CHAIN
1ST $1000
2ND $800
3RD $400
1/2 TON STOCK TRUCKS
1ST $1000
2ND $800
3RD $400
SUV/MINI VAN
1ST $1000
2ND $800
3RD $400
14K TOTAL PAYOUT!!!!!!!!!!
must be threw inspection by 5:30
old iron full size.
any year car. 03 rules will be at the bottom.
➢ Car Preparation-
○ No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except
where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. No painting in the interior of the car.
○ All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
○ All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
○ All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
○ Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and
covered.
○ You must have a number in bright colors on each front door and must have at least the size of a
15”x15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. You
cannot use the roof sign to strengthen the car.
○ All cars must have working brakes.
○ NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld,
other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will
not run!!
➢ Bumper-
○ Bumpers are interchangeable.
○ Any automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car, but no more than one set of
bumper brackets may be used.
○ Manufactured bumpers are allowed, as long as they follow the same shape and size as a factory
bumper.
○ You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame, must keep on one side only. You can weld
bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You can
collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with 1⁄2” bolt or less, and it must be
done vertically.
○ No brackets are allowed to extend any further back than the first 14 inches of the frame. No
brackets inside the frame at all!!
○ Instead of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use (1) 4” wide x 3/8” thick strap extending
from your bumper down one side of the frame and cannot extend any further back than the first 14”
of the frame. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an
“L” shape this is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate may be
formed but it cannot double at any point. Do not abuse this rule you will cut it.
○ You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. You may trim bumper ends or fold them
around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. Weld them solid we do not
want them coming off.
○ No welding bumper to the body in any fashion.
○ Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and must be a
minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame.
○ Bumpers must be in stock location.
○ Front and rear bumpers may have (4) loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet
metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in
front of the radiator.
○ The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back
past the front most part of the frame rails. Rear Bumper may be mounted in the same manner as
the front bumper.
➢ Frame Shortening-
○ You may shorten the front frame on a FoMoCo or GM on the front frame only. You may cut the
frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. If it is a weld on mount leave the
remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate
it, you will not run.
➢ Frame Welding-
○ Top seam may be welded from the front bumper to the engine saddle crossmember nothing past
that. No other seam welding is allowed unless it is specified in these rules.
➢ Frame Tilting-
○ Tilting is allowed at boxes. 15” of weld total per box no bigger than 1⁄2” welds. Cold Bending is
allowed. You may cold bend in the rails under the doors, however your crossmembers or down bars
cannot support the bend.
○ GM cars may pie cut and tilt at the boxes. You are allowed to weld back together with 15” of weld
per box no bigger than 1⁄2” welds.
○ Mopar cars if you don’t cold bend or tilt like GMs you are allowed 15” of seam welding per rail
behind the front wheels to the firewall.
➢ .Rust Repair-
○ Call before fixing any rust on the frame.
➢ Frame Shaping-
○ No frame shaping or squaring allowed.
➢ Front Suspension-
○ Tie Rods and Ball Joints: Aftermarket tie rods & ball joints are allowed. Weld & bolt in rings are
allowed. 1” tall and no wider then factory ball joint mounting holes.
○ A-Arms: A-arms may be welded or bolted down with up to a 5/8” bolt but may not be reinforced. If
welded it may only use up to (2) 2”x4”x1/8” thick strap per A-Arm. This strap must weld to the
A-Arm. No changing or modifying the a-arm brackets. Coil springs must be a factory car coil spring
for a car that is permitted to run in this class.
○ Steering box: May be interchanged but must remain a stock box for a car that is legal in the class
you are running. Pitman arms must remain stock or stock replacement
○ Idler Arm: Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm for that is off a car that is
legal in the class you are running.
○ Hubs: Must remain stock for the spindle you are using no aftermarket hubs or rotors. Brake
calipers must remain stock for the stock spindles, can use any bearing and spindle nut.
○ Spindles: Must be stock for a car that is legal in the class you are running; the only exception is old
iron GM spindles.
➢ Rear Suspension-
○ Leaf springs must be from a stock car allowed in this class, no added leaf’s. No rearranging the leaf
pack. You may add (2) homemade clamps per side 2”x4”x1/4” thick. No shortening of the leaf pack.
You must have a working shackle. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them
from becoming unbolted.
○ You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied
together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), or put spacers in sagging coil
springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above.
You can wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out, do not
go through body as this would be another body mount. You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8”
chain or 4 loops of #9 wire) from rear end to frame in (1) spot on each side, must go around frame,
do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld the chain to the side of the
frame. For your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can weld one link only to the side of the
frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame.
➢ Rear Ends-
○ Use rear end of choice.
○ You can tilt rear end if you wish for a more desirable pinion angle. Welded or posi-track highly
recommended. Back braces are welcome. Braces may not extend more than 5” on the outer 10” of
a stock size axle tube and 13” total, all the measurements will be off the center of the axle tube.
○ Must be 3” away from any part of the frame at the start of the derby. No adding to rearend after the
start of the derby.
○ No changing out rear package trays on frame. You must use the factory brackets that came with
the car you are running. No relocating brackets on the frame.
○ Rear end control arms can be reinforced. They may start from a stock set but can be reinforced, or
can be made from 2x3” tubing, not to exceed longer then factory. They must attach in stock
configuration for the suspension setup you are using.
○ No Hybrid Setups. Watts-Conversion are NOT allowed
➢ Tires & Wheels-
○ Tires no bigger than 16 inches, No split rims, No studded tires. Doubled tires and Solid Tires are ok
– wedon’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims.
○ Wheel reinforcement is allowed as long as the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the
reinforcement stays within the factory bead. Bead locks are permitted in this class. Bead locks may
be no more than 20” in diameter and can be on inside of tire only.
➢ Motor-
○ Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location.
○ Distributor Protectors, Midplates, Distributor Cap Protectors, or Full Cradles are NOT allowed! A
midplate is a plate that that goes between the engine and transmission. Only exception is if using
for a BOP transmission (stock bell adapter nothing over inch taller than stock bell) do not think this
is a gray area because you will sit on the trailer!
○ You are allowed a front lower cradle with pulley protector. Cradle must attach to a factory style
engine mount; this is the only way to tie the engine down. No part of the lower cradle can extend
any further back than 3” from the very last boss on a stock engine. Carb halos are allowed, nothing
can extend past the last spark plug hole on the block. No pan protectors, side bars, etc. can go
back towards the transmission to tie it in. Header protectors are allowed; this can be accomplished
with a piece of 4”x4”x1⁄4” welded around header or to carb halo only
➢ Transmission Brace and Skid Plate-
○ You may run any transmission and bell housing. To hold the transmission down you are allowed (1)
loop of 3/8” chain to the cross member with (1) link welded per side OR you can bolt it down with
(2) 5/8” bolts with 1.5” washers using the factory holes in the factory tail shaft cone. No
transmission protectors or aftermarket tail shaft cones are allowed. No steel-built pans are allowed.
➢ Transmission Cross Member-
○ You must use a factory cross member for mounting transmission (can be out of another car), or a
straight piece of 2”x2”x1/4” tubing. Transmission crossmember must be completely straight from
side to side and one piece. No contoured or arched crossmembers. They must be mounted in the
stock location. You may use (2) 2”x2”x1/4” x 6” long angle iron to set cross member on. The
transmission cross member is the only method which the transmission may be tied in.
➢ Body Shaping-
○ Body may be shaped on the exterior sheet metal only. No body shaping inside the passenger
compartment, inside the truck, or inside the engine compartment at all.
○ Rust Repair: You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal ONLY. Do not cut rust out;
weld 2” beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through, CALL for instructions on how to fix the rust
hole. DO NOT FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU RUN IT.
➢ #9 Wire-
o #9 wire allowed in the window openings. (2) per side so (4) total in a car.
o You may run wire from frame rail underneath the back of the car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or
1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through a factory frame hole, or
you can weld (1) 3/8 chain link to the side of the frame to run the wire through, but do not reinforce the
frame with the chain link or you will cut it off. This wire may pass through the trunk floor if you choose.
➢ Radiators-
○ For mounting radiators, you may use (4)- 1⁄2” all thread. This may pass through the bottom of the
core support. This must not pass through the upper core support. It may be attached to a 2”x6” 1/8”
flat strap that can be welded to the core support. These straps must be outside the fan. NO radiator
guards allowed.
○ A 1/8” thick piece of flat steel may be used on front side of radiator in place of an AC condenser.
Must be no wider than the inside frame rails and no taller than the core support.
➢ Body Mounts-
○ Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1/2” bolts. These bolts can only be 8” long. Body mounts
can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1” thick and have the same diameter as stock
spacers. Bolts may extend through the body and have up to a 4”x4”x 1⁄4” washer on top. Washers
must be separate and cannot reinforce the frame. Bolts must be up inside of the frame like factory
with up to a 2”x4”x 1⁄4” washer. If you choose to use a body mount hole for your hood ready bolt
this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can go on the bottom side of the frame and be
no larger than 3”. If you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones
inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a 3⁄4” space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do
not devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight.
○ Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid.
Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added, do not shorten the front of your car and move
back past the body mount hole as your car will not run. If you have to build core support spacers
you may weld it to the body or the frame mount. Core Support Spacers cannot exceed 2” square
material.
○ The front frame must not be shortened to far that the 1” all thread must pass through the factory
stamped hole. The all thread may only be welded to the side of the frame in this location.
○ Chrysler K-Member cannot be altered.
➢ Hood & Front Clip-
○ Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be
bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than a total of (10)
bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not
exceed the (10) bolts.
○ You are allowed (6) spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of (4) tie down spots. You
may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front
body mount. This spot only may be welded to the frame after it passes through the body mount but
may not be nutted underneath the body mount if it is welded. All other tie down spots must be sheet
metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length! All hood bolts must
be placed outside the windshield bars. You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed
5”x5”x1/4” square or 6” x1/4” round.
○ Front core support cannot be moved back from its factory location. It must stay bolted to the
fenders the same way that it came factory. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the
core support do not exceed (4) 3/8” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt back to the core support of
fender.
○ You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with (5) 3/8” bolts
or less with 1.25” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them.
➢ Windshield Bar & Firewall-
○ DO NOT ALTER FIREWALL!!! Besides what is mandatory in these rules!!
○ For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the
firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” flat strap. If and only if you remove the
firewall/dash completely between the straps you can connect these 2 bars. The removed part must
be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting
the two vertical bars cannot be and larger than 3/8”x3” straps. No more than 6” of strap material is
allowed on the roof and no more than 6” of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6”
on roof or firewall or you will cut. Window bars cannot go more than 6 inches past the window
opening on the exterior only. Must be at least 14” apart at the firewall.
➢ Doors-
○ Doors may be welded 5” on 5” off with nothing larger than 3” wide by 1/8” thick strapping. If you
chose not to weld, the doors must be tied shut in (6) locations using 1⁄2” bolts no longer than 6”,
3/8” Chain, or #9 wire. If we do not deem the car safe to compete you will add more fastening
points.
○ You are allowed to add bracing to the exterior side of the driver’s door. This bracing must not stick
any further out than 2” from the door and may not have any sharp edges. You are allowed to carry
the bracing up to 3” past the exterior door seam either forward or backward.
➢ Cage-
○ All cage material can be no larger than 6” OD, unless specified for a specific rule smaller or larger.
All cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going
straight down. No cage material can be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or
components, and all cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which
cannot be altered.
○ You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, but do not connect
directly to frame. You may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to
replace your dash. You may run (2) bars connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front
doors only. You may weld (2) down bars from the cage to the frame vertically or to the floor to
protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seam and can
only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot not exceed 2”x3”.
○ Side bars may be up to 6”x12”, and cannot exceed 62” long, including the rollover bar.
○ You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be
welded or bolted to the roof.
○ Mopar’s can run a 1” bolt with a 5" plate on both sides (frame and body) in the front most frame
hole in the rear frame. You are then allowed to weld a kicker from the door bar and weld to the top
of this plate. It can be a maximum of 2x3” square tubing. All Mopar cage material must be 5”
forward from the center of this body mount hole other than the kicker explained prior. Some
Mopar’s have a very tight passenger compartment and you may need to run the halo through the
small back window, mainly Cordoba’s, call first if you have questions.
○ You may also weld a steering column to the cage.
➢ Gas Tank Protector-
○ Gas tank protector cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered between
your frame humps. It cannot exceed 32” wide. It can angle in from your roll over protection. It must
be a full 3” away from all sheet metal, which cannot be removed or hammered to get you closer to
the frame. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal, which cannot be removed, measured
from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat area. Gas tank protector must be on all 4
sides of the tank, front, back, both sides. Gas tank protector may extend 6” above the speaker
deck.
➢ Fuel Tank, Oil Coolers & Transmission Coolers-
○ All equipment must be fashioned tightly to the vehicle! * We do not want to see anything come
loose during the event, if it does, your stick will be pulled. Ratchet straps will only be sufficient as a
backup.
○ Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well-made fuel cell, and it must
be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel line must be secured and
fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of
the car where the back seat used to be. No other source of gas inside the car at all.
○ Engine coolers are allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. No bolts may
extend through the frame to create a body mount.
➢ Trunks-
○ You may weld your trunk lid shut in (6) spots using up to 3”x5”x1/8” patches on the factory seam.
○ You can fold hoods or trunk lid over. Do not slide your hood or trunk forward or back, trunk must
remain on hinges. Trunk lids must be stock shape but may be folded in but keep it clean.
○ (2) 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan, if it passes through a body
mount hole you must have a 1” spacer between the body and frame. Only 4” of weld on frame and
threaded rod must stay verticle. Threaded rod cannot extend past the frame.
➢ 03+ Engine Attachment-
○ Lower cradle must attach to the factory crossmember towers and holes. You may use JFC Lower.
Engine Cradle (call for pictures) Other ways of mounting your cradle are a 6”x6” 1⁄4” plate to attach
a legal style rubber engine mount to for this class. the center between the two mounts can be connected for this class. but still not wrap the cradle
○ No part of the engine cradle or engine mounts may attach, touch or wrap any part of aluminum
crossmember or frame rails other than the crossmember towers.
○ There should be nothing between the frame rails and aluminum towers, this includes lower cradle
pre rans get total of 10 plates. 6 plate from bumper to the transmission crossmeber and 4 crossmember to back bumper. 6x6 1/8 inch
Rules Questions? Contact Jon- 715-222-9368
FWD CHAIN
General Rules-
○ FWD ONLY!!
○ No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except
where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. No painting in the interior of the car.
○ All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
○ All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
○ All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
○ Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and
covered.
○ You must have a number in bright colors on each front door and must have at least the size of a
15”x15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. You
cannot use the roof sign to strengthen the car.
○ All cars must have working brakes.
○ NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld,
other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will
not run!!
➢ Shortening-
○ You may shorten up to the core support.
➢ Bumper-
○ You may have a car bumper or you may have a 6”x4” piece of tubing on instead. No loaded
bumpers or manufactured bumpers, seam welded is fine!!
○ If running a tube bumper the ends of the tube may be cut and curled towards the cab of the vehicle.
➢ Bumper Brackets-
○ You get 6” bumper bracket, this will be measured from the back of the bumper. Anything past 6” will
need to be cut off. Cannot exceed the height of the frame (example: a Camry frame rail is taller
than a W Body, so the plating on a Camry will be taller than the plating on a W Body.)
○ Your bracket may be on all 4 sides, again not exceeding 6” from the back of the bumper.
○ Rear Bumper must follow the same rules.
➢ Tires & Wheels-
○ Any tires and wheels allowed.
➢ .Rear Ends-
○ You may have 2- 3/8” chains total to hold the rear end down.
➢ Front Suspension & Steering-
○ All struts, spindles, ball joints and tie rods must remain factory.
○ You may run a spring spacer or a strut clamp. But they may not reinforce the strut in anyway. This
should only be used to gain ride height.
○ The only thing you may replace is the steering column.
➢ Doors-
○ The doors may be secured by one of the following ways: you can weld the doors shut with a 3”x5”
1/8” thick piece 2 per vertical seam, you can have 2 -3/8” chain per vertical seam or 2 spots of 4
strand nine wire per vertical seam.
➢ Body Shaping-
○ You may body crease but absolutely no welding of any crease, etc.
➢ Body Mounts-
○ All body mounts must remain factory in the factory location. If a body mount is rusted out, you may
replace it with a 3/8th bolt. Call with any questions after that.
➢ #9 Wire-
○ No 9 wire in any window openings.
➢ Trunks & Hatches-
○ Trunks may be 90 degree tucked.
○ You may choose one of the following options for your 4 tie downs on the trunk: 4- 3”x5” 1/8th
” thick
patches welded, 4- 3/8 chain or 4 spots with 4 strands of 9 wire. These locations must be body to
body.
➢ Hoods-
o Hoods may be secured in one of the following ways:
o You may have 2- 1” threaded rod that welds to the top of the frame, may not go through the frame and
the only thing that can be welded to the frame is either the 1” nut or the 1” rod. (no washer may be
welded to the frame). Your other 2 tie downs may go to the body only with one of the following 2”X2” 1⁄4”
angle iron with a bolt, 2 spots of 4 strands of 9 wire or 2 spots with 3/8 chain.
o If you don’t use the threaded rod you may use 4 spots of body to body of one of the following: 2x2 1⁄4”
angle iron with a bolt, 4 spots of 4 strands of 9 wire or 4 spots of 3/8 chain.
o Your factory hinges do not count as a hood tie down.
➢ .Wheel Wells-
o 5- 3/8th bolts per wheel well with standard washers.
➢ Rust Repair-
○ You may only fix the floors where your feet, battery box, gas tank, etc (safety locations only)
○ Absolutely NO FRAME REPAIRS!!
➢ Cage-
○ All cage material can be no larger than 6” OD, unless specified for a specific rule smaller or larger.
All cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going
straight down. No cage material can be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or
components, and all cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which
cannot be altered.
○ You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, but do not connect
directly to frame. You may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to
replace your dash. You may run (2) bars connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front
doors only. You may weld (2) down bars from the cage to the body vertically or to the floor to
protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seam and can
only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot not exceed 2”x3”.
○ Side bars may be up to 6”x6”, and cannot exceed 62” long, including the rollover bar.
○ You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be
welded or bolted to the roof.
➢ Gas Tank Protector-
○ Gas tank protector cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered between
your frame humps. It cannot exceed 32” wide. It can angle in from your roll over protection. It must
be a full 3” away from all sheet metal, which cannot be removed or hammered to get you closer to
the frame. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal, which cannot be removed, measured
from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat area. Gas tank protector must be on all 4
sides of the tank, front, back, both sides. Gas tank protector may extend 6” above the speaker
deck.
○ If running a wagon you must follow the sedan rules. We will measure it as a sedan.
➢ Rear Window Bars-
○ NO REAR WINDOW BARS!
➢ Front Window Bars-
○ You may have 2 locations of 3/8 chain or 2 locations of 4 strands of 9 wire.
○ Must be within 6” of window opening.
➢ Motors-
○ Motor mounts must remain stock unless otherwise specified in the rules.
○ You may chain your engine down with 2- 3/8 chain. No welding and may not strengthen car.
○ You may run headers.
○ No carbing EFI motors.
○ NO engine or header protectors.
➢ Radiator-
○ You may run any radiator.
○ No radi barrels allowed.
➢ Interior Equipment:
○ You may have the following: aftermarket steering column, shifter, gas and brake, transmission
cooler and battery box.
○ All equipment must be fashioned tightly to the vehicle! * We do not want to see anything come
loose during the event, if it does, your stick will be pulled. Ratchet straps will only be sufficient as a
backup.
○ You cannot use any interior equipment to strengthen the car in any way. If any equipment is
deemed to strengthen the vehicle, you will be required to relocate it.
○ All battery boxes and gas pedal/brake pedal must be bolted to sheet metal only; they cannot be
attached to the frame or cross member in any way. No Larger than 1⁄2” bolts and standard washers
may be used to mount items (No full plate washer’s underneath).
➢ Gas Tank-
○ 15-gallon tank max, Fuel cells must be well constructed and out of a durable material. No plastic
tanks, metal is preferred, boat tank type is fine. Any splashing, spilling, or leaking of fuel will result
in a broken flag. Fuel cells are recommended to be mounted to the gas tank protector/ cage. No
“Gas Tank Holders”. Fuel lines must be secured.
○ Fuel tank must be bolted or chained in place with a floor mat covering it. No ratchet straps unless it
is a secondary device.
pre ran cars are allowed 4-6x6 1/8 plates cannot split up.
Rules Questions? Contact Jon- 715-222-9368
FWD Vans/ suv class
○
○ No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except
where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. No painting in the interior of the car.
○ All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
○ All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
○ All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
○ Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and
covered.
○ You must have a number in bright colors on each front door and must have at least the size of a
15”x15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. You
cannot use the roof sign to strengthen the car.
○ All cars must have working brakes.
○ NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld,
other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will
not run!!
➢ Shortening-
○ You may shorten up to the core support.
➢ Bumper-
○ You may have a car bumper or you may have a 6”x4” piece of tubing on instead. No loaded
bumpers or manufactured bumpers, seam welded is fine!!
○ If running a tube bumper the ends of the tube may be cut and curled towards the cab of the vehicle.
➢ Bumper Brackets-
○ You get 6” bumper bracket, this will be measured from the back of the bumper. Anything past 6” will
need to be cut off. Cannot exceed the height of the frame (example: a Camry frame rail is taller
than a W Body, so the plating on a Camry will be taller than the plating on a W Body.)
○ Your bracket may be on all 4 sides, again not exceeding 6” from the back of the bumper.
○ Rear Bumper must follow the same rules.
➢ Tires & Wheels-
○ Any tires and wheels allowed.
➢ .Rear Ends-
○ You may have 2- 3/8” chains total to hold the rear end down.
➢ Front Suspension & Steering-
○ All struts, spindles, ball joints and tie rods must remain factory.
○ You may run a spring spacer or a strut clamp. But they may not reinforce the strut in anyway. This
should only be used to gain ride height.
○ The only thing you may replace is the steering column.
➢ Doors-
○ The doors may be secured by one of the following ways: you can weld the doors shut with a 3”x5”
1/8” thick piece 2 per vertical seam, you can have 2- 3/8” chain per vertical seam or 2 spots of 4
strand nine wire per vertical seam.
➢ Body Shaping-
○ You may body crease but absolutely no welding of any crease, etc.
➢ Body Mounts-
○ All body mounts must remain factory in the factory location. If a body mount is rusted out, you may
replace it with a 3/8th bolt. Call with any questions after that.
➢ #9 Wire-
○ No 9 wire in any window openings.
➢ Hatches-
○ You must leave your hatch in stock location or it may be removed completely.
○ You may choose one of the following options for your 4 tie downs on the trunk: 4- 3”x5” 1/8th
” thick
patches welded, 4- 3/8 chain or 4 spots with 4 strands of 9 wire. These locations must be body to
body.
➢ Hoods-
o Hoods may be secured in one of the following ways:
o You may have 2- 1” threaded rod that welds to the top of the frame, may not go through the frame and
the only thing that can be welded to the frame is either the 1” nut or the 1” rod. (no washer may be
welded to the frame). Your other 2 tie downs may go to the body only with one of the following 2”X2” 1⁄4”
angle iron with a bolt, 2 spots of 4 strands of 9 wire or 2 spots with 3/8 chain.
o If you don’t use the threaded rod you may use 4 spots of body to body of one of the following: 2x2 1⁄4”
angle iron with a bolt, 4 spots of 4 strands of 9 wire or 4 spots of 3/8 chain.
o Your factory hinges do not count as a hood tie down.
➢ .Wheel Wells-
o 5- 3/8th bolts per wheel well with standard washers.
➢ Rust Repair-
○ You may only fix the floors where your feet, battery box, gas tank, etc (safety locations only)
○ Absolutely NO FRAME REPAIRS!!
➢ Cage-
○ All cage material can be no larger than 6” OD, unless specified for a specific rule smaller or larger.
All cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going
straight down. No cage material can be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or
components, and all cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which
cannot be altered.
○ You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, but do not connect
directly to frame. This bar must be within 12” from the driver seat. You may also have a single bar
(with no extensions), across your dash area to replace your dash. You may run (2) bars connecting
the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You may weld (2) down bars from the cage
to the body vertically or to the floor to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain
behind the inside door seam and can only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars
cannot not exceed 2”x3”.
○ Side bars may be up to 6”x6”, and cannot exceed 62” long, including the rollover bar.
○ You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be
welded or bolted to the roof.
➢ Gas Tank Protector-
○ Gas tank protector cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered between
your frame humps. It cannot exceed 32” wide. It can angle in from your roll over protection. It
cannot exceed the farthest point of your 62” side bars. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet
metal, which cannot be removed, measured from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat
area. Gas tank protector must be on all 4 sides of the tank, front, back, both sides. Gas tank
protector may extend 6” above the speaker deck.
➢ Rear Window Bars-
○ NO REAR WINDOW BARS!
➢ Front Window Bars-
○ You may have 2 locations of 3/8 chain or 2 locations of 4 strands of 9 wire.
○ Must be within 6” of window opening.
➢ Motors-
○ Motor mounts must remain stock unless otherwise specified in the rules.
○ Front Motor mount may be welded solid.
○ If running stock motor mounts you may chain your engine down with 2- 3/8 chain. No welding and
may not strengthen car.
○ You may run headers
○ No carbing EFI motors.
○ NO engine or header protectors.
➢ Radiator-
○ You may run any radiator.
○ No radi barrels allowed.
➢ Interior Equipment:
○ You may have the following: aftermarket steering column, shifter, gas and brake, transmission
cooler and battery box.
○ All equipment must be fashioned tightly to the vehicle! * We do not want to see anything come
loose during the event, if it does, your stick will be pulled. Ratchet straps will only be sufficient as a
backup.
○ You cannot use any interior equipment to strengthen the car in any way. If any equipment is
deemed to strengthen the vehicle, you will be required to relocate it.
○ All battery boxes and gas pedal/brake pedal must be bolted to sheet metal only; they cannot be
attached to the frame or cross member in any way. No Larger than 1⁄2” bolts and standard washers
may be used to mount items (No full plate washer’s underneath).
➢ Gas Tank-
○ 15-gallon tank max, Fuel cells must be well constructed and out of a durable material. No plastic
tanks, metal is preferred, boat tank type is fine. Any splashing, spilling, or leaking of fuel will result
in a broken flag. Fuel cells are recommended to be mounted to the gas tank protector/ cage. No
“Gas Tank Holders”. Fuel lines must be secured.
○ Fuel tank must be bolted or chained in place with a floor mat covering it. No ratchet straps unless it
is a secondary device.
pre rans get 4- 6x6 1/8 plates
Rules Questions? Contact Jon- 715-222-9368
○ 1⁄2 Ton Trucks Only
○ 2) 2WD and 4WD trucks and Suburbans are allowed. 4WD vehicles must remove the front drive
shaft. All frames must be pickup truck frames!
○ 3) Standard cab and standard box allowed, no altering, no exceptions! All cabs must match the
frame (Year & Make) they are going on.
○ 4) Maximum frame height is 28 inches, minimum frame height is 19 inches.
○ 5) No body or suspension lifts allowed. No flat beds, or any other style frames!
○ 6) Remove all glass, chrome, plastic, moldings, headliner, flammable material, A/C coolant,
antifreeze, trailer hitches and interior decorating.
○ 7) Stock gas tank must be removed. A small metal tank must be mounted in the rear seat area. The
tank must be very secure and covered. Use proper rated fuel lines.
○ 8) Plastic tanks must be in a metal box, no exceptions!! Electric fuel pumps are allowed but switch
must be clearly marked on/off.
○ 9) Floor shifters are allowed. Ignition and wiring modifications (hotwire) are allowed.
○ 10) Hood must have 12” x 12” minimum hole to easily extinguish fires. Extra hole(s) in hood are not
required if header holes are least 12” x 12”.
➢ Frame-
○ Nothing may be welded past 6 inches from the front of the frame. You may weld a 6”x6” plate to the
front of the frame to bolt your bumper to. 6” from the back of the bumper is all you get to mount the
bumper.
➢ Bumpers-
○ Loaded bumpers and manufactured bumpers are all allowed.
➢ Hood-
○ (6) locations of bolts, chains or 9 wire will be allowed, 1” max. (2) may go to frame, the other (4)
locations must be sheet metal to sheet metal. If you choose to use threaded rod it must be welded
vertically within 4” of the stock core support location, 1” max. Only one of these three may be used.
➢ Steering-
○ No welding or bracing tie-rods, must be a stock tie rod from a 1/2-ton truck. Aftermarket steering
columns are allowed.
➢ Engine-
○ Motors may interchange, but it must be within 4” of the factory location.
○ No distributor protectors & transmission braces
○ You are allowed a front lower cradle with pulley protector. Cradle must attach to a factory style
engine mount; this is the only way to tie the engine down. No part of the lower cradle can extend
any further back than 3” from the very last boss on a stock engine. Carb halos are allowed, nothing
can extend past the last spark plug hole on the block. No pan protectors, side bars, etc. can go
back towards the transmission to tie it in. Header protectors are allowed; this can be accomplished
with a piece of 4”x4”x1⁄4” welded around header or to carb halo only
➢ Transmission-
○ No transmission braces whatsoever.
○ A JB aluminum bell is allowed but may only be secured by the pump bolts. All sheet metal must be
at least a 1⁄2” from bell.
○ You may have a transmission cooler but cannot strengthen truck in any way and must be secured.
○ Any driveshaft allowed, including sliders.
➢ Radiators-
○ Must be in stock location.
○ Aftermarket stock radiators allowed.
○ You may bolt air conditioner condenser in front of radiator.
○ No homemade radiators. No radiator protectors allowed.
➢ Doors-
o Doors may be welded 5” on 5” off with nothing larger than 3” wide by 1⁄4” thick strapping. If you choose
not to weld, you are allowed to chain or 9 wire your doors shut.
➢ Driver’s Safety-
○ You are allowed a driver’s door plate/protection. This cannot exceed past 3” of the driver’s door
seam either way.
○ All cage components cannot exceed 6” OD and cannot be any smaller then 2” OD. This cage is
strongly recommended for your safety!
○ You are allowed a dash bar, a bar behind the seat, and you can connect these 2 bars along the
inside of the doors. All cage components must be free floating, with 2 down legs to cab tin only!
Down bars cannot be anywhere near frame. Dash bar must be 6” away from transmission tunnel.
○ Rollover bar consists of (2) uprights and (1) horizontal bar over the cab. 2 downs bars can go to the
body up to 24” behind the halo.
○ Cab can be welded to box on the exterior only!
➢ Tires-
○ Any tire is allowed.
➢ Suspension-
o Maximum frame height is 28 inches to the top, minimum frame height is 19 inches to bottom. No
exceptions!
o Stock springs only, no homemade springs!
o You may clamp springs together with factory or homemade clamps, (6) per side. Homemade clamp size
cannot exceed 3” wide material and cannot be thicker than 3/8”. 7/16” bolts max is allowed to bolt the
homemade spring clamps together.
o No leaf conversions on 1989 and newer GM or Ford trucks unless they came factory with leaf spring
perch mounts. No exceptions!!
o 2x2” tube straight from axle to frame is allowed to get height.
➢ Batteries and Fuel Tank-
o Fuel cell is highly recommended to be in a steel box. This is to be located in the most forward center of
box or inside of cab. Gas line to be run in a protective conduit.
o Two batteries max, batteries must be covered or in a box. All battery boxes and fuel cells must be
mounted securely.
➢ Body Panels-
o No creasing is allowed.
➢ Body Bolts & Box-
o Body bolts can be replaced, up to 3⁄4” max rod. You may add (4) additional body bolts in the box, and
additional body bolts in the cab. These can be welded to the frame but must be vertical and cannot
exceed the 3⁄4” rod! 6”x 6” washers in stock mount locations are allowed.
o Box must remain upright and in stock location, no tucking, shortening, or other manipulation to the box
is allowed!
o All boxes that tucked themselves in during the event need to be straightened out in a respectable
manner if they want to run the next event.
o You are allowed a plate for you gas tank to sit on, the plate can be 3” wider in all directions of your fuel
cell. It must be free floating and can be bolted to sheet metal only, you cannot connect it to your
back-seat bar or cab or roll bar.
➢ Tailgate-
o Tailgate must remain upright in the stock location. Tail gate may be dropped a maximum of 8” but must
remain vertical. You may weld tailgate to frame or bumper. No tucking of tail gate is allowed.
o You have (3) ways of fastening your tailgate. You may weld a 3” wide strap per seam, or Chain/9 Wire
at (2) locations per seam. Outside only.
➢ Rear Ends-
o No braced rear ends are allowed! Factory 5 or 6 lug rear ends only, no 8 lug rear ends allowed! (1)
additional 3/8” chain per side is allowed to hold rearend in place.
➢ Repair-
○ No Plated Fresh Trucks!
○ Pre-run trucks get up to 3”x12”x1/4” thick of plating per rail. It must be on a clearly bent area, not
stress marks. When this plating is gone it is gone, you do not get 13”.
Rules Questions? Contact Jon- 715-222-9368
CLASSES
full size street stock
1ST $4000
2ND $2000
3RD $1000
4TH $400
FWD CHAIN
1ST $1000
2ND $800
3RD $400
1/2 TON STOCK TRUCKS
1ST $1000
2ND $800
3RD $400
SUV/MINI VAN
1ST $1000
2ND $800
3RD $400
14K TOTAL PAYOUT!!!!!!!!!!
must be threw inspection by 5:30
old iron full size.
any year car. 03 rules will be at the bottom.
➢ Car Preparation-
○ No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except
where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. No painting in the interior of the car.
○ All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
○ All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
○ All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
○ Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and
covered.
○ You must have a number in bright colors on each front door and must have at least the size of a
15”x15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. You
cannot use the roof sign to strengthen the car.
○ All cars must have working brakes.
○ NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld,
other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will
not run!!
➢ Bumper-
○ Bumpers are interchangeable.
○ Any automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car, but no more than one set of
bumper brackets may be used.
○ Manufactured bumpers are allowed, as long as they follow the same shape and size as a factory
bumper.
○ You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame, must keep on one side only. You can weld
bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You can
collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with 1⁄2” bolt or less, and it must be
done vertically.
○ No brackets are allowed to extend any further back than the first 14 inches of the frame. No
brackets inside the frame at all!!
○ Instead of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use (1) 4” wide x 3/8” thick strap extending
from your bumper down one side of the frame and cannot extend any further back than the first 14”
of the frame. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an
“L” shape this is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate may be
formed but it cannot double at any point. Do not abuse this rule you will cut it.
○ You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. You may trim bumper ends or fold them
around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. Weld them solid we do not
want them coming off.
○ No welding bumper to the body in any fashion.
○ Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and must be a
minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame.
○ Bumpers must be in stock location.
○ Front and rear bumpers may have (4) loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet
metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in
front of the radiator.
○ The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back
past the front most part of the frame rails. Rear Bumper may be mounted in the same manner as
the front bumper.
➢ Frame Shortening-
○ You may shorten the front frame on a FoMoCo or GM on the front frame only. You may cut the
frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. If it is a weld on mount leave the
remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate
it, you will not run.
➢ Frame Welding-
○ Top seam may be welded from the front bumper to the engine saddle crossmember nothing past
that. No other seam welding is allowed unless it is specified in these rules.
➢ Frame Tilting-
○ Tilting is allowed at boxes. 15” of weld total per box no bigger than 1⁄2” welds. Cold Bending is
allowed. You may cold bend in the rails under the doors, however your crossmembers or down bars
cannot support the bend.
○ GM cars may pie cut and tilt at the boxes. You are allowed to weld back together with 15” of weld
per box no bigger than 1⁄2” welds.
○ Mopar cars if you don’t cold bend or tilt like GMs you are allowed 15” of seam welding per rail
behind the front wheels to the firewall.
➢ .Rust Repair-
○ Call before fixing any rust on the frame.
➢ Frame Shaping-
○ No frame shaping or squaring allowed.
➢ Front Suspension-
○ Tie Rods and Ball Joints: Aftermarket tie rods & ball joints are allowed. Weld & bolt in rings are
allowed. 1” tall and no wider then factory ball joint mounting holes.
○ A-Arms: A-arms may be welded or bolted down with up to a 5/8” bolt but may not be reinforced. If
welded it may only use up to (2) 2”x4”x1/8” thick strap per A-Arm. This strap must weld to the
A-Arm. No changing or modifying the a-arm brackets. Coil springs must be a factory car coil spring
for a car that is permitted to run in this class.
○ Steering box: May be interchanged but must remain a stock box for a car that is legal in the class
you are running. Pitman arms must remain stock or stock replacement
○ Idler Arm: Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm for that is off a car that is
legal in the class you are running.
○ Hubs: Must remain stock for the spindle you are using no aftermarket hubs or rotors. Brake
calipers must remain stock for the stock spindles, can use any bearing and spindle nut.
○ Spindles: Must be stock for a car that is legal in the class you are running; the only exception is old
iron GM spindles.
➢ Rear Suspension-
○ Leaf springs must be from a stock car allowed in this class, no added leaf’s. No rearranging the leaf
pack. You may add (2) homemade clamps per side 2”x4”x1/4” thick. No shortening of the leaf pack.
You must have a working shackle. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them
from becoming unbolted.
○ You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied
together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), or put spacers in sagging coil
springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above.
You can wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out, do not
go through body as this would be another body mount. You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8”
chain or 4 loops of #9 wire) from rear end to frame in (1) spot on each side, must go around frame,
do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld the chain to the side of the
frame. For your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can weld one link only to the side of the
frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame.
➢ Rear Ends-
○ Use rear end of choice.
○ You can tilt rear end if you wish for a more desirable pinion angle. Welded or posi-track highly
recommended. Back braces are welcome. Braces may not extend more than 5” on the outer 10” of
a stock size axle tube and 13” total, all the measurements will be off the center of the axle tube.
○ Must be 3” away from any part of the frame at the start of the derby. No adding to rearend after the
start of the derby.
○ No changing out rear package trays on frame. You must use the factory brackets that came with
the car you are running. No relocating brackets on the frame.
○ Rear end control arms can be reinforced. They may start from a stock set but can be reinforced, or
can be made from 2x3” tubing, not to exceed longer then factory. They must attach in stock
configuration for the suspension setup you are using.
○ No Hybrid Setups. Watts-Conversion are NOT allowed
➢ Tires & Wheels-
○ Tires no bigger than 16 inches, No split rims, No studded tires. Doubled tires and Solid Tires are ok
– wedon’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims.
○ Wheel reinforcement is allowed as long as the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the
reinforcement stays within the factory bead. Bead locks are permitted in this class. Bead locks may
be no more than 20” in diameter and can be on inside of tire only.
➢ Motor-
○ Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location.
○ Distributor Protectors, Midplates, Distributor Cap Protectors, or Full Cradles are NOT allowed! A
midplate is a plate that that goes between the engine and transmission. Only exception is if using
for a BOP transmission (stock bell adapter nothing over inch taller than stock bell) do not think this
is a gray area because you will sit on the trailer!
○ You are allowed a front lower cradle with pulley protector. Cradle must attach to a factory style
engine mount; this is the only way to tie the engine down. No part of the lower cradle can extend
any further back than 3” from the very last boss on a stock engine. Carb halos are allowed, nothing
can extend past the last spark plug hole on the block. No pan protectors, side bars, etc. can go
back towards the transmission to tie it in. Header protectors are allowed; this can be accomplished
with a piece of 4”x4”x1⁄4” welded around header or to carb halo only
➢ Transmission Brace and Skid Plate-
○ You may run any transmission and bell housing. To hold the transmission down you are allowed (1)
loop of 3/8” chain to the cross member with (1) link welded per side OR you can bolt it down with
(2) 5/8” bolts with 1.5” washers using the factory holes in the factory tail shaft cone. No
transmission protectors or aftermarket tail shaft cones are allowed. No steel-built pans are allowed.
➢ Transmission Cross Member-
○ You must use a factory cross member for mounting transmission (can be out of another car), or a
straight piece of 2”x2”x1/4” tubing. Transmission crossmember must be completely straight from
side to side and one piece. No contoured or arched crossmembers. They must be mounted in the
stock location. You may use (2) 2”x2”x1/4” x 6” long angle iron to set cross member on. The
transmission cross member is the only method which the transmission may be tied in.
➢ Body Shaping-
○ Body may be shaped on the exterior sheet metal only. No body shaping inside the passenger
compartment, inside the truck, or inside the engine compartment at all.
○ Rust Repair: You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal ONLY. Do not cut rust out;
weld 2” beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through, CALL for instructions on how to fix the rust
hole. DO NOT FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU RUN IT.
➢ #9 Wire-
o #9 wire allowed in the window openings. (2) per side so (4) total in a car.
o You may run wire from frame rail underneath the back of the car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or
1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through a factory frame hole, or
you can weld (1) 3/8 chain link to the side of the frame to run the wire through, but do not reinforce the
frame with the chain link or you will cut it off. This wire may pass through the trunk floor if you choose.
➢ Radiators-
○ For mounting radiators, you may use (4)- 1⁄2” all thread. This may pass through the bottom of the
core support. This must not pass through the upper core support. It may be attached to a 2”x6” 1/8”
flat strap that can be welded to the core support. These straps must be outside the fan. NO radiator
guards allowed.
○ A 1/8” thick piece of flat steel may be used on front side of radiator in place of an AC condenser.
Must be no wider than the inside frame rails and no taller than the core support.
➢ Body Mounts-
○ Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1/2” bolts. These bolts can only be 8” long. Body mounts
can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1” thick and have the same diameter as stock
spacers. Bolts may extend through the body and have up to a 4”x4”x 1⁄4” washer on top. Washers
must be separate and cannot reinforce the frame. Bolts must be up inside of the frame like factory
with up to a 2”x4”x 1⁄4” washer. If you choose to use a body mount hole for your hood ready bolt
this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can go on the bottom side of the frame and be
no larger than 3”. If you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones
inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a 3⁄4” space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do
not devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight.
○ Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid.
Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added, do not shorten the front of your car and move
back past the body mount hole as your car will not run. If you have to build core support spacers
you may weld it to the body or the frame mount. Core Support Spacers cannot exceed 2” square
material.
○ The front frame must not be shortened to far that the 1” all thread must pass through the factory
stamped hole. The all thread may only be welded to the side of the frame in this location.
○ Chrysler K-Member cannot be altered.
➢ Hood & Front Clip-
○ Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be
bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than a total of (10)
bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not
exceed the (10) bolts.
○ You are allowed (6) spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of (4) tie down spots. You
may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front
body mount. This spot only may be welded to the frame after it passes through the body mount but
may not be nutted underneath the body mount if it is welded. All other tie down spots must be sheet
metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length! All hood bolts must
be placed outside the windshield bars. You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed
5”x5”x1/4” square or 6” x1/4” round.
○ Front core support cannot be moved back from its factory location. It must stay bolted to the
fenders the same way that it came factory. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the
core support do not exceed (4) 3/8” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt back to the core support of
fender.
○ You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with (5) 3/8” bolts
or less with 1.25” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them.
➢ Windshield Bar & Firewall-
○ DO NOT ALTER FIREWALL!!! Besides what is mandatory in these rules!!
○ For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the
firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” flat strap. If and only if you remove the
firewall/dash completely between the straps you can connect these 2 bars. The removed part must
be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting
the two vertical bars cannot be and larger than 3/8”x3” straps. No more than 6” of strap material is
allowed on the roof and no more than 6” of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6”
on roof or firewall or you will cut. Window bars cannot go more than 6 inches past the window
opening on the exterior only. Must be at least 14” apart at the firewall.
➢ Doors-
○ Doors may be welded 5” on 5” off with nothing larger than 3” wide by 1/8” thick strapping. If you
chose not to weld, the doors must be tied shut in (6) locations using 1⁄2” bolts no longer than 6”,
3/8” Chain, or #9 wire. If we do not deem the car safe to compete you will add more fastening
points.
○ You are allowed to add bracing to the exterior side of the driver’s door. This bracing must not stick
any further out than 2” from the door and may not have any sharp edges. You are allowed to carry
the bracing up to 3” past the exterior door seam either forward or backward.
➢ Cage-
○ All cage material can be no larger than 6” OD, unless specified for a specific rule smaller or larger.
All cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going
straight down. No cage material can be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or
components, and all cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which
cannot be altered.
○ You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, but do not connect
directly to frame. You may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to
replace your dash. You may run (2) bars connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front
doors only. You may weld (2) down bars from the cage to the frame vertically or to the floor to
protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seam and can
only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot not exceed 2”x3”.
○ Side bars may be up to 6”x12”, and cannot exceed 62” long, including the rollover bar.
○ You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be
welded or bolted to the roof.
○ Mopar’s can run a 1” bolt with a 5" plate on both sides (frame and body) in the front most frame
hole in the rear frame. You are then allowed to weld a kicker from the door bar and weld to the top
of this plate. It can be a maximum of 2x3” square tubing. All Mopar cage material must be 5”
forward from the center of this body mount hole other than the kicker explained prior. Some
Mopar’s have a very tight passenger compartment and you may need to run the halo through the
small back window, mainly Cordoba’s, call first if you have questions.
○ You may also weld a steering column to the cage.
➢ Gas Tank Protector-
○ Gas tank protector cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered between
your frame humps. It cannot exceed 32” wide. It can angle in from your roll over protection. It must
be a full 3” away from all sheet metal, which cannot be removed or hammered to get you closer to
the frame. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal, which cannot be removed, measured
from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat area. Gas tank protector must be on all 4
sides of the tank, front, back, both sides. Gas tank protector may extend 6” above the speaker
deck.
➢ Fuel Tank, Oil Coolers & Transmission Coolers-
○ All equipment must be fashioned tightly to the vehicle! * We do not want to see anything come
loose during the event, if it does, your stick will be pulled. Ratchet straps will only be sufficient as a
backup.
○ Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well-made fuel cell, and it must
be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel line must be secured and
fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of
the car where the back seat used to be. No other source of gas inside the car at all.
○ Engine coolers are allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. No bolts may
extend through the frame to create a body mount.
➢ Trunks-
○ You may weld your trunk lid shut in (6) spots using up to 3”x5”x1/8” patches on the factory seam.
○ You can fold hoods or trunk lid over. Do not slide your hood or trunk forward or back, trunk must
remain on hinges. Trunk lids must be stock shape but may be folded in but keep it clean.
○ (2) 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan, if it passes through a body
mount hole you must have a 1” spacer between the body and frame. Only 4” of weld on frame and
threaded rod must stay verticle. Threaded rod cannot extend past the frame.
➢ 03+ Engine Attachment-
○ Lower cradle must attach to the factory crossmember towers and holes. You may use JFC Lower.
Engine Cradle (call for pictures) Other ways of mounting your cradle are a 6”x6” 1⁄4” plate to attach
a legal style rubber engine mount to for this class. the center between the two mounts can be connected for this class. but still not wrap the cradle
○ No part of the engine cradle or engine mounts may attach, touch or wrap any part of aluminum
crossmember or frame rails other than the crossmember towers.
○ There should be nothing between the frame rails and aluminum towers, this includes lower cradle
pre rans get total of 10 plates. 6 plate from bumper to the transmission crossmeber and 4 crossmember to back bumper. 6x6 1/8 inch
Rules Questions? Contact Jon- 715-222-9368
FWD CHAIN
General Rules-
○ FWD ONLY!!
○ No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except
where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. No painting in the interior of the car.
○ All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
○ All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
○ All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
○ Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and
covered.
○ You must have a number in bright colors on each front door and must have at least the size of a
15”x15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. You
cannot use the roof sign to strengthen the car.
○ All cars must have working brakes.
○ NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld,
other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will
not run!!
➢ Shortening-
○ You may shorten up to the core support.
➢ Bumper-
○ You may have a car bumper or you may have a 6”x4” piece of tubing on instead. No loaded
bumpers or manufactured bumpers, seam welded is fine!!
○ If running a tube bumper the ends of the tube may be cut and curled towards the cab of the vehicle.
➢ Bumper Brackets-
○ You get 6” bumper bracket, this will be measured from the back of the bumper. Anything past 6” will
need to be cut off. Cannot exceed the height of the frame (example: a Camry frame rail is taller
than a W Body, so the plating on a Camry will be taller than the plating on a W Body.)
○ Your bracket may be on all 4 sides, again not exceeding 6” from the back of the bumper.
○ Rear Bumper must follow the same rules.
➢ Tires & Wheels-
○ Any tires and wheels allowed.
➢ .Rear Ends-
○ You may have 2- 3/8” chains total to hold the rear end down.
➢ Front Suspension & Steering-
○ All struts, spindles, ball joints and tie rods must remain factory.
○ You may run a spring spacer or a strut clamp. But they may not reinforce the strut in anyway. This
should only be used to gain ride height.
○ The only thing you may replace is the steering column.
➢ Doors-
○ The doors may be secured by one of the following ways: you can weld the doors shut with a 3”x5”
1/8” thick piece 2 per vertical seam, you can have 2 -3/8” chain per vertical seam or 2 spots of 4
strand nine wire per vertical seam.
➢ Body Shaping-
○ You may body crease but absolutely no welding of any crease, etc.
➢ Body Mounts-
○ All body mounts must remain factory in the factory location. If a body mount is rusted out, you may
replace it with a 3/8th bolt. Call with any questions after that.
➢ #9 Wire-
○ No 9 wire in any window openings.
➢ Trunks & Hatches-
○ Trunks may be 90 degree tucked.
○ You may choose one of the following options for your 4 tie downs on the trunk: 4- 3”x5” 1/8th
” thick
patches welded, 4- 3/8 chain or 4 spots with 4 strands of 9 wire. These locations must be body to
body.
➢ Hoods-
o Hoods may be secured in one of the following ways:
o You may have 2- 1” threaded rod that welds to the top of the frame, may not go through the frame and
the only thing that can be welded to the frame is either the 1” nut or the 1” rod. (no washer may be
welded to the frame). Your other 2 tie downs may go to the body only with one of the following 2”X2” 1⁄4”
angle iron with a bolt, 2 spots of 4 strands of 9 wire or 2 spots with 3/8 chain.
o If you don’t use the threaded rod you may use 4 spots of body to body of one of the following: 2x2 1⁄4”
angle iron with a bolt, 4 spots of 4 strands of 9 wire or 4 spots of 3/8 chain.
o Your factory hinges do not count as a hood tie down.
➢ .Wheel Wells-
o 5- 3/8th bolts per wheel well with standard washers.
➢ Rust Repair-
○ You may only fix the floors where your feet, battery box, gas tank, etc (safety locations only)
○ Absolutely NO FRAME REPAIRS!!
➢ Cage-
○ All cage material can be no larger than 6” OD, unless specified for a specific rule smaller or larger.
All cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going
straight down. No cage material can be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or
components, and all cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which
cannot be altered.
○ You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, but do not connect
directly to frame. You may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to
replace your dash. You may run (2) bars connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front
doors only. You may weld (2) down bars from the cage to the body vertically or to the floor to
protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seam and can
only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot not exceed 2”x3”.
○ Side bars may be up to 6”x6”, and cannot exceed 62” long, including the rollover bar.
○ You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be
welded or bolted to the roof.
➢ Gas Tank Protector-
○ Gas tank protector cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered between
your frame humps. It cannot exceed 32” wide. It can angle in from your roll over protection. It must
be a full 3” away from all sheet metal, which cannot be removed or hammered to get you closer to
the frame. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal, which cannot be removed, measured
from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat area. Gas tank protector must be on all 4
sides of the tank, front, back, both sides. Gas tank protector may extend 6” above the speaker
deck.
○ If running a wagon you must follow the sedan rules. We will measure it as a sedan.
➢ Rear Window Bars-
○ NO REAR WINDOW BARS!
➢ Front Window Bars-
○ You may have 2 locations of 3/8 chain or 2 locations of 4 strands of 9 wire.
○ Must be within 6” of window opening.
➢ Motors-
○ Motor mounts must remain stock unless otherwise specified in the rules.
○ You may chain your engine down with 2- 3/8 chain. No welding and may not strengthen car.
○ You may run headers.
○ No carbing EFI motors.
○ NO engine or header protectors.
➢ Radiator-
○ You may run any radiator.
○ No radi barrels allowed.
➢ Interior Equipment:
○ You may have the following: aftermarket steering column, shifter, gas and brake, transmission
cooler and battery box.
○ All equipment must be fashioned tightly to the vehicle! * We do not want to see anything come
loose during the event, if it does, your stick will be pulled. Ratchet straps will only be sufficient as a
backup.
○ You cannot use any interior equipment to strengthen the car in any way. If any equipment is
deemed to strengthen the vehicle, you will be required to relocate it.
○ All battery boxes and gas pedal/brake pedal must be bolted to sheet metal only; they cannot be
attached to the frame or cross member in any way. No Larger than 1⁄2” bolts and standard washers
may be used to mount items (No full plate washer’s underneath).
➢ Gas Tank-
○ 15-gallon tank max, Fuel cells must be well constructed and out of a durable material. No plastic
tanks, metal is preferred, boat tank type is fine. Any splashing, spilling, or leaking of fuel will result
in a broken flag. Fuel cells are recommended to be mounted to the gas tank protector/ cage. No
“Gas Tank Holders”. Fuel lines must be secured.
○ Fuel tank must be bolted or chained in place with a floor mat covering it. No ratchet straps unless it
is a secondary device.
pre ran cars are allowed 4-6x6 1/8 plates cannot split up.
Rules Questions? Contact Jon- 715-222-9368
FWD Vans/ suv class
○
○ No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except
where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. No painting in the interior of the car.
○ All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
○ All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
○ All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
○ Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and
covered.
○ You must have a number in bright colors on each front door and must have at least the size of a
15”x15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. You
cannot use the roof sign to strengthen the car.
○ All cars must have working brakes.
○ NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld,
other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will
not run!!
➢ Shortening-
○ You may shorten up to the core support.
➢ Bumper-
○ You may have a car bumper or you may have a 6”x4” piece of tubing on instead. No loaded
bumpers or manufactured bumpers, seam welded is fine!!
○ If running a tube bumper the ends of the tube may be cut and curled towards the cab of the vehicle.
➢ Bumper Brackets-
○ You get 6” bumper bracket, this will be measured from the back of the bumper. Anything past 6” will
need to be cut off. Cannot exceed the height of the frame (example: a Camry frame rail is taller
than a W Body, so the plating on a Camry will be taller than the plating on a W Body.)
○ Your bracket may be on all 4 sides, again not exceeding 6” from the back of the bumper.
○ Rear Bumper must follow the same rules.
➢ Tires & Wheels-
○ Any tires and wheels allowed.
➢ .Rear Ends-
○ You may have 2- 3/8” chains total to hold the rear end down.
➢ Front Suspension & Steering-
○ All struts, spindles, ball joints and tie rods must remain factory.
○ You may run a spring spacer or a strut clamp. But they may not reinforce the strut in anyway. This
should only be used to gain ride height.
○ The only thing you may replace is the steering column.
➢ Doors-
○ The doors may be secured by one of the following ways: you can weld the doors shut with a 3”x5”
1/8” thick piece 2 per vertical seam, you can have 2- 3/8” chain per vertical seam or 2 spots of 4
strand nine wire per vertical seam.
➢ Body Shaping-
○ You may body crease but absolutely no welding of any crease, etc.
➢ Body Mounts-
○ All body mounts must remain factory in the factory location. If a body mount is rusted out, you may
replace it with a 3/8th bolt. Call with any questions after that.
➢ #9 Wire-
○ No 9 wire in any window openings.
➢ Hatches-
○ You must leave your hatch in stock location or it may be removed completely.
○ You may choose one of the following options for your 4 tie downs on the trunk: 4- 3”x5” 1/8th
” thick
patches welded, 4- 3/8 chain or 4 spots with 4 strands of 9 wire. These locations must be body to
body.
➢ Hoods-
o Hoods may be secured in one of the following ways:
o You may have 2- 1” threaded rod that welds to the top of the frame, may not go through the frame and
the only thing that can be welded to the frame is either the 1” nut or the 1” rod. (no washer may be
welded to the frame). Your other 2 tie downs may go to the body only with one of the following 2”X2” 1⁄4”
angle iron with a bolt, 2 spots of 4 strands of 9 wire or 2 spots with 3/8 chain.
o If you don’t use the threaded rod you may use 4 spots of body to body of one of the following: 2x2 1⁄4”
angle iron with a bolt, 4 spots of 4 strands of 9 wire or 4 spots of 3/8 chain.
o Your factory hinges do not count as a hood tie down.
➢ .Wheel Wells-
o 5- 3/8th bolts per wheel well with standard washers.
➢ Rust Repair-
○ You may only fix the floors where your feet, battery box, gas tank, etc (safety locations only)
○ Absolutely NO FRAME REPAIRS!!
➢ Cage-
○ All cage material can be no larger than 6” OD, unless specified for a specific rule smaller or larger.
All cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going
straight down. No cage material can be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or
components, and all cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which
cannot be altered.
○ You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, but do not connect
directly to frame. This bar must be within 12” from the driver seat. You may also have a single bar
(with no extensions), across your dash area to replace your dash. You may run (2) bars connecting
the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You may weld (2) down bars from the cage
to the body vertically or to the floor to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain
behind the inside door seam and can only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars
cannot not exceed 2”x3”.
○ Side bars may be up to 6”x6”, and cannot exceed 62” long, including the rollover bar.
○ You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be
welded or bolted to the roof.
➢ Gas Tank Protector-
○ Gas tank protector cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered between
your frame humps. It cannot exceed 32” wide. It can angle in from your roll over protection. It
cannot exceed the farthest point of your 62” side bars. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet
metal, which cannot be removed, measured from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat
area. Gas tank protector must be on all 4 sides of the tank, front, back, both sides. Gas tank
protector may extend 6” above the speaker deck.
➢ Rear Window Bars-
○ NO REAR WINDOW BARS!
➢ Front Window Bars-
○ You may have 2 locations of 3/8 chain or 2 locations of 4 strands of 9 wire.
○ Must be within 6” of window opening.
➢ Motors-
○ Motor mounts must remain stock unless otherwise specified in the rules.
○ Front Motor mount may be welded solid.
○ If running stock motor mounts you may chain your engine down with 2- 3/8 chain. No welding and
may not strengthen car.
○ You may run headers
○ No carbing EFI motors.
○ NO engine or header protectors.
➢ Radiator-
○ You may run any radiator.
○ No radi barrels allowed.
➢ Interior Equipment:
○ You may have the following: aftermarket steering column, shifter, gas and brake, transmission
cooler and battery box.
○ All equipment must be fashioned tightly to the vehicle! * We do not want to see anything come
loose during the event, if it does, your stick will be pulled. Ratchet straps will only be sufficient as a
backup.
○ You cannot use any interior equipment to strengthen the car in any way. If any equipment is
deemed to strengthen the vehicle, you will be required to relocate it.
○ All battery boxes and gas pedal/brake pedal must be bolted to sheet metal only; they cannot be
attached to the frame or cross member in any way. No Larger than 1⁄2” bolts and standard washers
may be used to mount items (No full plate washer’s underneath).
➢ Gas Tank-
○ 15-gallon tank max, Fuel cells must be well constructed and out of a durable material. No plastic
tanks, metal is preferred, boat tank type is fine. Any splashing, spilling, or leaking of fuel will result
in a broken flag. Fuel cells are recommended to be mounted to the gas tank protector/ cage. No
“Gas Tank Holders”. Fuel lines must be secured.
○ Fuel tank must be bolted or chained in place with a floor mat covering it. No ratchet straps unless it
is a secondary device.
pre rans get 4- 6x6 1/8 plates
Rules Questions? Contact Jon- 715-222-9368
○ 1⁄2 Ton Trucks Only
○ 2) 2WD and 4WD trucks and Suburbans are allowed. 4WD vehicles must remove the front drive
shaft. All frames must be pickup truck frames!
○ 3) Standard cab and standard box allowed, no altering, no exceptions! All cabs must match the
frame (Year & Make) they are going on.
○ 4) Maximum frame height is 28 inches, minimum frame height is 19 inches.
○ 5) No body or suspension lifts allowed. No flat beds, or any other style frames!
○ 6) Remove all glass, chrome, plastic, moldings, headliner, flammable material, A/C coolant,
antifreeze, trailer hitches and interior decorating.
○ 7) Stock gas tank must be removed. A small metal tank must be mounted in the rear seat area. The
tank must be very secure and covered. Use proper rated fuel lines.
○ 8) Plastic tanks must be in a metal box, no exceptions!! Electric fuel pumps are allowed but switch
must be clearly marked on/off.
○ 9) Floor shifters are allowed. Ignition and wiring modifications (hotwire) are allowed.
○ 10) Hood must have 12” x 12” minimum hole to easily extinguish fires. Extra hole(s) in hood are not
required if header holes are least 12” x 12”.
➢ Frame-
○ Nothing may be welded past 6 inches from the front of the frame. You may weld a 6”x6” plate to the
front of the frame to bolt your bumper to. 6” from the back of the bumper is all you get to mount the
bumper.
➢ Bumpers-
○ Loaded bumpers and manufactured bumpers are all allowed.
➢ Hood-
○ (6) locations of bolts, chains or 9 wire will be allowed, 1” max. (2) may go to frame, the other (4)
locations must be sheet metal to sheet metal. If you choose to use threaded rod it must be welded
vertically within 4” of the stock core support location, 1” max. Only one of these three may be used.
➢ Steering-
○ No welding or bracing tie-rods, must be a stock tie rod from a 1/2-ton truck. Aftermarket steering
columns are allowed.
➢ Engine-
○ Motors may interchange, but it must be within 4” of the factory location.
○ No distributor protectors & transmission braces
○ You are allowed a front lower cradle with pulley protector. Cradle must attach to a factory style
engine mount; this is the only way to tie the engine down. No part of the lower cradle can extend
any further back than 3” from the very last boss on a stock engine. Carb halos are allowed, nothing
can extend past the last spark plug hole on the block. No pan protectors, side bars, etc. can go
back towards the transmission to tie it in. Header protectors are allowed; this can be accomplished
with a piece of 4”x4”x1⁄4” welded around header or to carb halo only
➢ Transmission-
○ No transmission braces whatsoever.
○ A JB aluminum bell is allowed but may only be secured by the pump bolts. All sheet metal must be
at least a 1⁄2” from bell.
○ You may have a transmission cooler but cannot strengthen truck in any way and must be secured.
○ Any driveshaft allowed, including sliders.
➢ Radiators-
○ Must be in stock location.
○ Aftermarket stock radiators allowed.
○ You may bolt air conditioner condenser in front of radiator.
○ No homemade radiators. No radiator protectors allowed.
➢ Doors-
o Doors may be welded 5” on 5” off with nothing larger than 3” wide by 1⁄4” thick strapping. If you choose
not to weld, you are allowed to chain or 9 wire your doors shut.
➢ Driver’s Safety-
○ You are allowed a driver’s door plate/protection. This cannot exceed past 3” of the driver’s door
seam either way.
○ All cage components cannot exceed 6” OD and cannot be any smaller then 2” OD. This cage is
strongly recommended for your safety!
○ You are allowed a dash bar, a bar behind the seat, and you can connect these 2 bars along the
inside of the doors. All cage components must be free floating, with 2 down legs to cab tin only!
Down bars cannot be anywhere near frame. Dash bar must be 6” away from transmission tunnel.
○ Rollover bar consists of (2) uprights and (1) horizontal bar over the cab. 2 downs bars can go to the
body up to 24” behind the halo.
○ Cab can be welded to box on the exterior only!
➢ Tires-
○ Any tire is allowed.
➢ Suspension-
o Maximum frame height is 28 inches to the top, minimum frame height is 19 inches to bottom. No
exceptions!
o Stock springs only, no homemade springs!
o You may clamp springs together with factory or homemade clamps, (6) per side. Homemade clamp size
cannot exceed 3” wide material and cannot be thicker than 3/8”. 7/16” bolts max is allowed to bolt the
homemade spring clamps together.
o No leaf conversions on 1989 and newer GM or Ford trucks unless they came factory with leaf spring
perch mounts. No exceptions!!
o 2x2” tube straight from axle to frame is allowed to get height.
➢ Batteries and Fuel Tank-
o Fuel cell is highly recommended to be in a steel box. This is to be located in the most forward center of
box or inside of cab. Gas line to be run in a protective conduit.
o Two batteries max, batteries must be covered or in a box. All battery boxes and fuel cells must be
mounted securely.
➢ Body Panels-
o No creasing is allowed.
➢ Body Bolts & Box-
o Body bolts can be replaced, up to 3⁄4” max rod. You may add (4) additional body bolts in the box, and
additional body bolts in the cab. These can be welded to the frame but must be vertical and cannot
exceed the 3⁄4” rod! 6”x 6” washers in stock mount locations are allowed.
o Box must remain upright and in stock location, no tucking, shortening, or other manipulation to the box
is allowed!
o All boxes that tucked themselves in during the event need to be straightened out in a respectable
manner if they want to run the next event.
o You are allowed a plate for you gas tank to sit on, the plate can be 3” wider in all directions of your fuel
cell. It must be free floating and can be bolted to sheet metal only, you cannot connect it to your
back-seat bar or cab or roll bar.
➢ Tailgate-
o Tailgate must remain upright in the stock location. Tail gate may be dropped a maximum of 8” but must
remain vertical. You may weld tailgate to frame or bumper. No tucking of tail gate is allowed.
o You have (3) ways of fastening your tailgate. You may weld a 3” wide strap per seam, or Chain/9 Wire
at (2) locations per seam. Outside only.
➢ Rear Ends-
o No braced rear ends are allowed! Factory 5 or 6 lug rear ends only, no 8 lug rear ends allowed! (1)
additional 3/8” chain per side is allowed to hold rearend in place.
➢ Repair-
○ No Plated Fresh Trucks!
○ Pre-run trucks get up to 3”x12”x1/4” thick of plating per rail. It must be on a clearly bent area, not
stress marks. When this plating is gone it is gone, you do not get 13”.
Rules Questions? Contact Jon- 715-222-9368