Post by mewes5x on Apr 16, 2023 20:14:27 GMT -5
start time 7th
• Fullsize Chain Stock
o $3,000
o $2,000
o $1,000
o $400
o Maddog: $300
• FWD Midsize Chain
o $1,000
o $800
o $400
o Maddog: $300
• Suv/ Mini Vans
o $1,000
o $800
o $400
o Maddog: $300
• ½ Ton Trucks
o $1,000
o $800
o $400
o Maddog: $300
Old Iron & 80’s and Newer- This class is Super Stock Class. Build to the rules not the gray areas in
between the rules. It is impossible to cover every gray area of the rules, use your common sense when
building. No 1973 & Older Imperials or Hearses are allowed.
➢ Seam Welding-
○ No frame seam welding is allowed.
➢ Shortening-
○ You may shorten the front most part of the frame rails only. You may cut the frame off at the front
most part of the core support mount. The entire core support mount must be completely intact. If
you remove the core support mount at all or shorten it too much you will be loaded.
○ Cadillacs must measure 18” from front side of spring pocket lip to the front of frame in a straight
line, not diagonal.
➢ Frame Shaping-
○ No frame shaping is allowed.
➢ Frame Repair-
○ If your frame is rusted through or bent call first, if you do not call us, do not expect us to allow you
to run! Must be same thickness as frame, piece may be butt welded in, no overlap, frame rust can
be cut out, but we need picture evidence before you do so.
○ No res-stubbing of frames is allowed.
➢ Engine Cross Member-
○ Engine crossmember must be completely stock.
➢ Engine Attachment-
○ Engine can be attached to the frame in two spots using a factory style rubber engine mount or weld
down plates where a traditional clamshell mount would be, these can be welded to the
crossmember and connected to the engine. Your motor mounts/plates and welds holding them
must say at least 1” from the factory seam connecting the engine crossmember to the frame. The
motor mounts can only be welded to the top of the engine crossmember.
○ You will be allowed (2) additional 2”x4"x1/4” plates or (2) 3/8” chain (4 links) to secure your engine
to the crossmember. These can be welded to the crossmember only and connected to the engine.
➢ 03+ Engine Attachment-
○ Lower cradle must attach to the factory crossmember towers and holes. You may use JFC Lower
Engine Cradle (call for pictures) Other ways of mounting your cradle are a 6”x6” 1⁄4” plate to attach
a legal style rubber engine mount to for this class.
○ No part of the engine cradle or engine mounts may attach, touch or wrap any part of aluminum
crossmember or frame rails other than the crossmember towers.
○ There should be nothing between the frame rails and aluminum towers, this includes lower cradle
etc.
➢ Transmission Cross Member-
○ You must run the factory transmission cross member in the stock location for the car you are
building. If the car you are running did not have a crossmember in it, you can replace the cross
member, it can be no larger than 2”x2”x1/4” square tubing or 2”x1/4” round tubing. Crossmember
must be butt welded into place on the inside of the frame rail.
○ The transmission cross member must be one piece and must be straight from side to side (no extra
material in crossmember and no arched cross members). Crossmember cannot be refabricated in
any way. If this is used as a strength advantage you will cut.
○ You are required to drill a 1⁄2” hole in the crossmember on the bottom side 6” from a frame rail for
inspection purposes. If the hole is not drilled in the frame you will be required to come back for tech
with a hole drilled.
○ The transmission cross member is the only method which the transmission may be tied in. Nothing
can be attached to the crossmember besides the transmission mount.
○ Cadillac frame extensions/tails cannot come in contact, be welded, or connected to the
transmission crossmember.
➢ Transmission Attachment-
○ Transmission can be bolted in place using a factory transmission mount or chained (3/8” max)/ 9
wired (4 strands max) to the crossmember. This is simply to attach the transmission to the
crossmember, if you use any of these methods to strengthen the car you will be required to remove
it completely.
Fullsize Chain
➢ Bumper-
○ You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. The bumper chrome must remain the
stock shape, but you may have metal put inside for reinforcement. You may trim bumper ends or
fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. Weld them solid, we
do not want them coming off. Bumpers must be in stock location. The bumper must be completely
in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the
frame rails.
○ If you choose to manufacture a homemade bumper it must either:
■ Conform to the following size limits. It can be no larger than 8”x8”. The point must taper
over an area of at least 32” wide and cannot exceed 12” wide/deep at the tip of the point.
The point may only extend out 4” from the flat part of the bumper. No Part of the bumper
may extend past the front most part of the frame rails.
■ Conform to the stock dimensions of a bumper legal for this class. It must follow the
dimensions of the stock bumper in height, depth, and point specifications. You do not need
a skin or backing if following the stock dimensions. If you are manufacturing a bumper to
these specifications, you need to have the bumper approved prior to the show.
○ Front and rear bumpers may have (2) spots of #9 wire (4 loops) or 3/8” Chain from radiator
support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not
frame).
○ Bumper can be mounted to the frame/bracket only, not to body other than the 9 wire or chain
mentioned previously.
➢ Bumper Brackets- You get 2 choices, pick 1 or the other, not both!
○ You can use the stock bracket that came factory on the car. The position of the stock must be
completely factory, but it can be compressed. You can weld the shock to the frame once
compressed to prevent it from moving, but only 6” back from the front of frame. If there is any
welding further than the first 6” you will be required to cut it completely loose. Bumper must then
mount to the factory bracket, not to frame.
○ You can remove the factory shock and use (1) 4” wide 3/8” thick flat strap to attach the bumper to
the frame. This plate and the welds holding it cannot exceed 6” long. This bracket can only be on
one side of frame. You can wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an “L” shape.
This is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. If choosing not to use the
strap, you can hardnose the bumper directly to the frame.
○ “Y” Frame cars can collapse the Y, but no seam welding may be added to the seam.
➢ Rear Frame Rails-
○ Notching/Dimpling is allowed, pre-bending rear frame rails is not allowed.
○ Rear frame rails cannot be tied together besides the rear bumper.
Wheels, Suspension and Steering
➢ Vehicle Height-
○ Cannot exceed 21” to the bottom of the bumper/frame from the ground and it must be a minimum
of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame in the rear, whichever is lower. Rear
rails behind the hump cannot be higher than 22”!
➢ Rear Suspension-
○ Any leaf sprung vehicle must remain leaf sprung. Any coil car vehicle must remain coil sprung.
○ The rear of cars can be squatted and chained to stiffen the rear suspension or gain your desirable
ride height. This can be accomplished with (1) 3/8” chain per side wrapped around the rear-end
and wrapped around the frame. Absolutely no welding anywhere on this chain. On a unibody rear
vehicle, you can cut 2 holes for this chain to pass through the body.
○ Threaded rod from the rearend to package tray is not allowed, the only way to set the height on the
vehicle is the chain mentioned previously.
➢ Coil Sprung Vehicles-
○ Coil sprung vehicles may stretch or replace springs to get rear bumper height. No doubled springs
are allowed! Springs cannot be welded together or to the rear-end or any sheet metal. You may
chain or wire the springs to the rear-end using 3/8” chains, or #9 wire (4 strands max). Do not run
any of these through the body or you will cut them, that would be considered a body mount. This is
not to be used as a strength advantage, only to keep the springs in your car.
Fullsize Chain
➢ Leaf Sprung Vehicles-
○ Leaf sprung vehicles cannot restack their pack. They leaf pack must be completely stock and in the
factory location. You can add (4) leaf clamps on each set of springs, these may be homemade, but
cannot be more than 4” long x 2” wide x 1⁄4” thick, 1/2” bolts may be used to clamp these together.
➢ Tires and Wheels-
○ Any tire is allowed.
➢ Rear-Ends & Mounting-
○ Use OEM rear end of choice, no aftermarket rear ends allowed. You can change the internals of the
rearend with aftermarket parts (gears, axles, etc.) Stock appearing postals are allowed call with
questions. Welded or Posi-track highly recommended.
○ You are allowed to weld stock sized (for the vehicle you are running) control arm mounts to the rear
end to mount the rearend. This is simply to mount the rear end; nothing can enforce the car!
○ The rearend cannot have any additional bracing on it.
○ No Hybrid Setups.
➢ Control Arms-
○ Swapping control arms with another completely stock control arm is allowed. You can shorten
control arms for a more desirable pinion angle, but they can only be butt welded back together, no
additional bracing is allowed.
➢ Watts-Conversion-
○ No watts-conversions allowed.
➢ Front Suspension and Steering-
○ All steering components besides steering column must be stock to a car ran in this class.
Aftermarket ball joints, tie rods spindles, hubs, center links, sway bars, steering boxes, or
A-arm/control arms are NOT allowed.
○ No welding of any steering components to frame unless specified in these rules. Stabilizer/sway
bar cannot meet any cradle components, must be removed if running a pulley protector, and must
mount in a factory manner.
➢ Steering Columns-
○ Modifying steering columns by adding joints or the ability to slide is allowed, aftermarket steering
columns are allowed. These are not allowed the strengthen the car in any way.
➢ Springs-
○ Front springs must be an OEM stock spring with no bracing or reinforcement. You may stretch
springs to get bumper height. No doubling of springs is allowed. Aftermarket/solid/compressed
springs are not allowed; we must be able to inspect inside the spring pocket! Spring spacers are
not allowed.
○ Spring must float in the frame; they cannot be secured to the frame or a-arm straps in any way!
Nothing can be inside the spring pocket besides the spring or threaded rod mentioned below!
➢ 03+ Suspension-
○ On 2003 and newer FOMOCO products only, you may add a spacer block on top or bottom of strut
to gain height.
➢ A- Arms/Control Arms-
○ A -arms may be welded OR bolted down but may not be reinforced. You can only weld OR bolt the
A-arm down, not both. You have (2) options for securing the control arm down, none can
strengthen the car in any way:
○ If bolting you are allowed (2) 1⁄2” bolts per upper A-Arm, these can only pass through the top side
of the frame with a 1⁄2” nut up inside of the frame. A single 1⁄2” fender washer can be used on the
top and bottom.
OR
○ If welding you are allowed (2) 2” x 2” x 1/8” straps per A-Arm, these can go directly from the A-Arm
to frame. No added material other than the straps mentioned. You cannot alter the A-Arm in any
way to allow you to weld more, only the straps mentioned!
Fullsize Chain
BODY
No other seams may be welded other then what is outlined in these rules! Absolutely no exceptions.
➢ Doors-
○ Driver door may be welded shut using nothing wider than 3” x 1/8” strapping, this is for driver
safety, if anything is done excessively you will cut!
○ You may patch weld, chain or #9 wire your doors in (8) locations per door using 2”x2”x1/8” plates,
3/8” Chain, or #9 wire (4 strands). Only (2) of these can go around the frame per door. If we do not
deem the car safe to compete you will add more fastening points. On a 4-door car, at the split
between the front door and back door, these fastening points are considered shared, this means
that they count against your total for both doors.
○ You can add bracing to the exterior side of the driver’s door. Drivers Door bracing must not stick
any further out than 2” from the door and may not have any sharp edges. You are also allowed to
carry the bracing up to 3” past the exterior driver door seam either forward or backward.
○ Doors can be folded over along the top (where the window comes through) but cannot be welded
or bolted back together.
➢ Shaping-
○ No body shaping allowed.
➢ Body Mounts-
○ Only factory body mounts allowed, don’t even touch them.
➢ #9 Wire in Window Openings-
○ No #9 wire allowed in this class.
➢ Hoods and Front Clips-
○ Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Holes cannot be bolted back
together.
○ Hoods must be in the stock location; you can remove the hinge, but hood must stay in the factory
location. You are not allowed to add more attachment points if removing hinges.
○ You are allowed (6) spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of (4) tie down spots. You
may have up to 3/4” all- thread for the front core support mount.
○ Your front (2) rods must go through core support mount. The core support rod can only be held in
with a standard 3⁄4” nut and washer, absolutely no welding is allowed on this rod.
○ The other (4) connections must be sheet metal to sheet metal only using chain (3/8” max) 9 wire (4
strands) or angle iron (4” long, 2” x 2”, 1⁄4” material with a bolt through it) is allowed.
○ You are allowed 3⁄4” threaded rod at other 4 locations, no bigger mounting pad then washed on
hood!
○ All hood bolts must be placed outside the windshield bars. You may have washers for hood tie
down, not to exceed 5”x5”x1/4” square or 6” x1/4” round. These cannot be welded to the hood.
➢ Core Supports-
○ Core support must be factory to the vehicle you are running and must remain in the factory
location, no sliding forward or backwards.
■ It must line up with the stock bolt holes, you may use the factory bolts and bolt holes to
attach core support to fenders. No other material may be added to attach the core support
to the fender unless otherwise noted.
○ If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed (2) 3/8” bolts
and 1.25” diameter washers to bolt back to the core support per fender.
○ Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid.
○ If running a core support spacer, it cannot be welded, it must only be held in by the threaded rod!
○ Core Support Spacers cannot exceed 3” square material and cannot extend up any further than the
bottom of the core support.
Fullsize Chain
➢ Trunks/ Hatch-
○ You can do a simple 90-degree tuck to fold the trunk lid over. Do not slide your trunk forward or
back, trunk must remain on hinges. This is the only trunk manipulation you are allowed!
○ Trunk lids must have at least two 6” inch holes or one 12” hole cut in the first 60% of the trunk lid
(holes in trunk floor will not count) for inspection purposes, you cannot have any bolts holding the
two layers back together. If these holes are strategically placed so that we cannot see what we
want to see to inspect the inside of the trunk you will be asked to cut more or bigger holes.
○ Your trunk lid may NOT be V’D or canoed in the center.
○ (2) 3/4” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan. Threaded rod must either
pass through a body mount hole if connecting to frame, and you must have a 1” spacer between
the body and frame, or if welding to frame rod must be welded vertically and no more than 4” of
weld. Threaded rod must pass through trunk lid and not through fender or roof. There may be
single 3⁄4” nut inside the trunk to tighten the floor to frame, and a single 1-1/2” flat washer. Nothing
else inside the trunk is allowed. You will be allowed (2) washer on the trunk for the threaded rod not
to exceed 5”x5”x1/4” square or 6”x1/4” round.
○ Washers cannot be welded to the body.
○ Trunk can be fastened shut in (6) other locations then the threaded rod previously mentioned to
bind the seams. You can use either chain (3/8” max), 9 wire (4 strands), 6- 1/8th 2x2 patches. You
must have a minimum of (2) tie down spots.
➢ Firewall-
○ You can cut or remove firewall for distributor to pass through. Absolutely no pounding or shaping of
firewall for a strength advantage. You cannot use your firewall as a brace. If the firewall is deemed
to be enforcing car, you will have to remove it to judge’s discretion.
○ You will be allowed (4) 2”x 1/4” straps to attach dash bar to firewall, no more than 2” of welding or
material on firewall.
○ These must be outside the hole cut in the firewall, none of these can be connected to any protector
or window components.
➢ Miscellaneous-
○ GM Wagons must remove all rear decking and seat components.
○ No fresh sedagons allowed, the roof must be in factory location at the start of the event.
➢ Sheet Metal Rust Repair-
○ DO NOT cut any sheet metal you are repairing out. Sheet metal must be same thickness as body,
repair sheet metal must remain flat, no forming or rolling plate to add strength. This metal can
exceed 2” past rusty metal. Picture evidence is required.
Cage
A 4-point cage and some sort of rollover protection is mandatory; this is a non-option. Safety is our
#1 priority.
A 4-point cage consists of a dash bar, a bar behind your seat, and 2 bars connecting those bars
running along your doors. Either a bar that extends up from the back-seat bar, behind your seat, and
is welded/bolted to the roof, or a halo bar that extends up from thenside bars, and connects with a
bar across the top of the roof will be sufficient for rollover protection.
➢ 4 Point Cage-
○ All cage material may be no larger than 6” diameter.
○ Door bar lengths are not to exceed 62”. This bar must not extend more than 18” behind
the center post on a four-door car and 10” behind the center post on a two-door car.
○ Dash bar and seat bar can only be 6” diameter or less and you may use only one, no
doubling of these bars.
○ All cage components must be on the inside of the vehicle.
○ The bar behind the seat can be no further than 6” behind the seat and must follow the
center post rule above.
○ Cage may be gusseted at each joint and one on each side of the gas tank protector.
○ All bars must be straight bars nothing contoured to the body.
○ All cage components must be a minimum of 4” off the floor, except for down legs that you
will be allowed. Dash bar will be measured at the transmission tunnel; all other bars will be
measured at body bolt elevation (This includes the gas tank protector).
○ No cage components may be welded to the frame.
○ All cage components must be at least 6” away from the firewall at the start of the event.
Fullsize Chain
➢ Down Bars-
○ You will be allowed (4) down legs total that can attach to body sheet metal only. Down legs
can be no bigger than 2”x3”x1/4”, unless being used as halo bar, welded to the door bars,
and they must be vertical. They cannot extend higher than the cage bar unless being used
as your rollover bar. If these legs are welded to the front or back of the door bar they will
be added to the total length of the bar, which is still not allowed to be longer than 62”. Legs
must be attached to the main 4-point cage, NOT the gas tank protector. The down legs
cannot be attached to or cover any body bolts. Front down legs cannot extend further past
the INTERIOR front door seem and rear seat down bar cannot extend any further
backward then the rear of the door bar based the door bar criteria above.
➢ Halo/ Rollover Bars-
○ Must be attached to the 4-point cage following the length of bar rules above. Can be
welded to sheet metal only (see down bar rule above!) with no larger material than 6”.
Must be vertical, not angled forward or back. The bars may be welded or bolted to the
roof. This counts as (2) of your down bars.
➢ Gas Tank Protector-
○ Gas tank protector cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered
between your frame humps. It cannot exceed 32” wide. It can angle in from your roll over
protection. It must be a full 3” away from all sheet metal, which cannot be removed or
hammered to get you closer to the frame. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet
metal, which cannot be removed, measured from the highest flat area of the floor in the
rear seat area. Gas tank protector must be on all 4 sides of the tank, front, back,both
sides. Gas tank protector may extend 6” above the speaker deck.
➢ .Rear Window Bar-
○ Rear window bars will not be allowed.
➢ Front Window Bars-
○ For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield straps centered in the car extending from the
roof of the car to the firewall/dash. If welding front window bars, you can weld it to the
factory sheet metal only. If choosing to bolt, you are allowed a 4”x4”x1/4” plate that can be
welded to the bar top and bottom, this cannot be welded to the car in any way. Straps
cannot be any larger than 3”x1/4” flat strap and must be 14” apart at firewall. You are not
allowed to connect these straps in any way. No more than 6" from the front window
opening of strap material allowed on the roof and no more than 6" of strap material
allowed on the firewall. Do not go over the 6” or you will cut.
○ Front window bars can only be attached to sheet metal, not any cage components.
○ If not using a strap, you must have either 3/8” chain or 9 wire (4 strands), in the front
window opening, sheet metal to sheet metal only to prevent the hood from coming into the
driver’s compartment.
Drive Train, Braces, Aftermarket and Interior Equipment
➢ Drive Shafts-
○ Slider drive shafts are allowed.
➢ Motors-
○ Use motor of choice, motor must be in a stock like location.
➢ Radiators-
○ Any automotive or aftermarket radiator is allowed, when mounting the radiator, you must
NOT reinforce the core support in any way. Radiator must be mounted in core support in
factory location.
○ No radi-barrels or additional cooling capacity devices allowed.
○ The radiator can be spray foamed in place to protect the radiator, but if we feel there is
weld being hidden by the spray foam you will need to provide evidence there is not.
○ No radiator enclosures or fan protectors allowed.
○ The only thing allowed to be in front of your radiator is a stock automotive air conditioning
condenser, (4) bolts maximum.
➢ Engine Protectors-
○ Distributor Protectors, Midplates, Distributor Cap Protectors, or Full Cradles are NOT
allowed! A midplate is a plate that that goes between the engine and transmission. Only
exception is if using for a BOP transmission (stock bell adapter nothing over inch taller
than stock bell) do not think this is a gray area because you will sit on the trailer!
○ You are allowed a front lower cradle with pulley protector. Cradle must attach to a factory
style engine mount; this is the only way to tie the engine down. No part of the lower cradle
can extend any further back than 3” from the very last boss on a stock engine. Carb halos
are allowed, nothing can extend past the last spark plug hole on the block. No pan
protectors, side bars,carb halos, etc. can go back towards the transmission to tie it in.
Header protectors are allowed, this can be accomplished with
a piece of 4”x4”x1⁄4” welded around header or to carb halo only.
➢ Transmission Equipment-
○ Only a stock style aftermarket aluminum bellhousing is allowed. Skid plates, transmission
braces, aftermarket tail housings, or aftermarket cases are not allowed or permitted in this
class.
➢ Transmission Cooler, Battery, Pedals, Shifter, etc-
○ All equipment must be fashioned tightly to the vehicle! * We do not want to see anything
come loose during the event, if it does, your stick will be pulled. Ratchet straps will only be
sufficient as a backup.
○ You cannot use any interior equipment to strengthen the car in any way. If any equipment
is deemed to strengthen the vehicle,you will be required to relocate it.
○ All battery boxes and gas pedal/brake pedal must be bolted to sheet metal only; they
cannot be attached to the frame or cross member in any way. No Larger than 1⁄2” bolts
and standard washers may be used to mount items (No full plate washer’s underneath).
➢ Gas Tank-
○ 15-gallon tank max, Fuel cells must be well constructed and out of a durable material. No
plastic tanks, metal is preferred, boat tank type is fine. Any splashing, spilling, or leaking of
fuel will result in a broken flag. Fuel cells are recommended to be mounted to the gas tank
protector/ cage. No “Gas Tank Holders”. Fuel lines must be secured.
○ Fuel tank must be bolted or chained in place with a floor mat covering it. No ratchet straps
unless it is a secondary device.
This is meant to be an easy build that you can put together in a week with a
few buddies. If you are spending a significant amount of time to build the
car or read into these rules, you are most likely over built and will cut or be
loaded!
PRE RAN CARS> CALL OR TEXT WE ARE ALLOWING A COUPLE PLATES IF NEEDED NOT JUST GIVING PLATES TO WELD ON IN THIS CLASS... SO IF YOU NEED TO REPAIR A CAR CALL OR TExT BEFORE DOING IT (pre approval)
Rules Questions? Contact Jon- 715-222-9368
FWD CHAIN
General Rules-
○ FWD ONLY!!
○ No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except
where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. No painting in the interior of the car.
○ All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
○ All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
○ All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
○ Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and
covered.
○ You must have a number in bright colors on each front door and must have at least the size of a
15”x15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. You
cannot use the roof sign to strengthen the car.
○ All cars must have working brakes.
○ NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld,
other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will
not run!!
➢ Shortening-
○ You may shorten up to the core support.
➢ Bumper-
○ You may have a car bumper or you may have a 6”x4” piece of tubing on instead. No loaded
bumpers or manufactured bumpers, seam welded is fine!!
○ If running a tube bumper the ends of the tube may be cut and curled towards the cab of the vehicle.
➢ Bumper Brackets-
○ You get 6” bumper bracket, this will be measured from the back of the bumper. Anything past 6” will
need to be cut off. Cannot exceed the height of the frame (example: a Camry frame rail is taller
than a W Body, so the plating on a Camry will be taller than the plating on a W Body.)
○ Your bracket may be on all 4 sides, again not exceeding 6” from the back of the bumper.
○ Rear Bumper must follow the same rules.
➢ Tires & Wheels-
○ Any tires and wheels allowed.
➢ .Rear Ends-
○ You may have 2- 3/8” chains total to hold the rear end down.
➢ Front Suspension & Steering-
○ All struts, spindles, ball joints and tie rods must remain factory.
○ You may run a spring spacer or a strut clamp. But they may not reinforce the strut in anyway. This
should only be used to gain ride height.
○ The only thing you may replace is the steering column.
➢ Doors-
○ The doors may be secured by one of the following ways: you can weld the doors shut with a 3”x5”
1/8” thick piece 2 per vertical seam, you can have 2 -3/8” chain per vertical seam or 2 spots of 4
strand nine wire per vertical seam.
➢ Body Shaping-
○ You may body crease but absolutely no welding of any crease, etc.
➢ Body Mounts-
○ All body mounts must remain factory in the factory location. If a body mount is rusted out, you may
replace it with a 3/8th bolt. Call with any questions after that.
➢ #9 Wire-
○ No 9 wire in any window openings.
➢ Trunks & Hatches-
○ Trunks may be 90 degree tucked.
○ You may choose one of the following options for your 4 tie downs on the trunk: 4- 3”x5” 1/8th
” thick
patches welded, 4- 3/8 chain or 4 spots with 4 strands of 9 wire. These locations must be body to
body.
➢ Hoods-
o Hoods may be secured in one of the following ways:
o You may have 2- 1” threaded rod that welds to the top of the frame, may not go through the frame and
the only thing that can be welded to the frame is either the 1” nut or the 1” rod. (no washer may be
welded to the frame). Your other 2 tie downs may go to the body only with one of the following 2”X2” 1⁄4”
angle iron with a bolt, 2 spots of 4 strands of 9 wire or 2 spots with 3/8 chain.
o If you don’t use the threaded rod you may use 4 spots of body to body of one of the following: 2x2 1⁄4”
angle iron with a bolt, 4 spots of 4 strands of 9 wire or 4 spots of 3/8 chain.
o Your factory hinges do not count as a hood tie down.
➢ .Wheel Wells-
o 5- 3/8th bolts per wheel well with standard washers.
➢ Rust Repair-
○ You may only fix the floors where your feet, battery box, gas tank, etc (safety locations only)
○ Absolutely NO FRAME REPAIRS!!
➢ Cage-
○ All cage material can be no larger than 6” OD, unless specified for a specific rule smaller or larger.
All cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going
straight down. No cage material can be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or
components, and all cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which
cannot be altered.
○ You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, but do not connect
directly to frame. You may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to
replace your dash. You may run (2) bars connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front
doors only. You may weld (2) down bars from the cage to the body vertically or to the floor to
protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seam and can
only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot not exceed 2”x3”.
○ Side bars may be up to 6”x6”, and cannot exceed 62” long, including the rollover bar.
○ You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be
welded or bolted to the roof.
➢ Gas Tank Protector-
○ Gas tank protector cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered between
your frame humps. It cannot exceed 32” wide. It can angle in from your roll over protection. It must
be a full 3” away from all sheet metal, which cannot be removed or hammered to get you closer to
the frame. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal, which cannot be removed, measured
from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat area. Gas tank protector must be on all 4
sides of the tank, front, back, both sides. Gas tank protector may extend 6” above the speaker
deck.
○ If running a wagon you must follow the sedan rules. We will measure it as a sedan.
➢ Rear Window Bars-
○ NO REAR WINDOW BARS!
➢ Front Window Bars-
○ You may have 2 locations of 3/8 chain or 2 locations of 4 strands of 9 wire.
○ Must be within 6” of window opening.
➢ Motors-
○ Motor mounts must remain stock unless otherwise specified in the rules.
○ You may chain your engine down with 2- 3/8 chain. No welding and may not strengthen car.
○ You may run headers.
○ No carbing EFI motors.
○ NO engine or header protectors.
➢ Radiator-
○ You may run any radiator.
○ No radi barrels allowed.
➢ Interior Equipment:
○ You may have the following: aftermarket steering column, shifter, gas and brake, transmission
cooler and battery box.
○ All equipment must be fashioned tightly to the vehicle! * We do not want to see anything come
loose during the event, if it does, your stick will be pulled. Ratchet straps will only be sufficient as a
backup.
○ You cannot use any interior equipment to strengthen the car in any way. If any equipment is
deemed to strengthen the vehicle, you will be required to relocate it.
○ All battery boxes and gas pedal/brake pedal must be bolted to sheet metal only; they cannot be
attached to the frame or cross member in any way. No Larger than 1⁄2” bolts and standard washers
may be used to mount items (No full plate washer’s underneath).
➢ Gas Tank-
○ 15-gallon tank max, Fuel cells must be well constructed and out of a durable material. No plastic
tanks, metal is preferred, boat tank type is fine. Any splashing, spilling, or leaking of fuel will result
in a broken flag. Fuel cells are recommended to be mounted to the gas tank protector/ cage. No
“Gas Tank Holders”. Fuel lines must be secured.
○ Fuel tank must be bolted or chained in place with a floor mat covering it. No ratchet straps unless it
is a secondary device.
pre ran cars are allowed 4-6x6 1/8 plates cannot split up.
Rules Questions? Contact Jon- 715-222-9368
○ FWD Vans/ suv class
○
○ No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except
where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. No painting in the interior of the car.
○ All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
○ All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
○ All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
○ Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and
covered.
○ You must have a number in bright colors on each front door and must have at least the size of a
15”x15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. You
cannot use the roof sign to strengthen the car.
○ All cars must have working brakes.
○ NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld,
other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will
not run!!
➢ Shortening-
○ You may shorten up to the core support.
➢ Bumper-
○ You may have a car bumper or you may have a 6”x4” piece of tubing on instead. No loaded
bumpers or manufactured bumpers, seam welded is fine!!
○ If running a tube bumper the ends of the tube may be cut and curled towards the cab of the vehicle.
➢ Bumper Brackets-
○ You get 6” bumper bracket, this will be measured from the back of the bumper. Anything past 6” will
need to be cut off. Cannot exceed the height of the frame (example: a Camry frame rail is taller
than a W Body, so the plating on a Camry will be taller than the plating on a W Body.)
○ Your bracket may be on all 4 sides, again not exceeding 6” from the back of the bumper.
○ Rear Bumper must follow the same rules.
➢ Tires & Wheels-
○ Any tires and wheels allowed.
➢ .Rear Ends-
○ You may have 2- 3/8” chains total to hold the rear end down.
➢ Front Suspension & Steering-
○ All struts, spindles, ball joints and tie rods must remain factory.
○ You may run a spring spacer or a strut clamp. But they may not reinforce the strut in anyway. This
should only be used to gain ride height.
○ The only thing you may replace is the steering column.
➢ Doors-
○ The doors may be secured by one of the following ways: you can weld the doors shut with a 3”x5”
1/8” thick piece 2 per vertical seam, you can have 2- 3/8” chain per vertical seam or 2 spots of 4
strand nine wire per vertical seam.
➢ Body Shaping-
○ You may body crease but absolutely no welding of any crease, etc.
➢ Body Mounts-
○ All body mounts must remain factory in the factory location. If a body mount is rusted out, you may
replace it with a 3/8th bolt. Call with any questions after that.
➢ #9 Wire-
○ No 9 wire in any window openings.
➢ Hatches-
○ You must leave your hatch in stock location or it may be removed completely.
○ You may choose one of the following options for your 4 tie downs on the trunk: 4- 3”x5” 1/8th
” thick
patches welded, 4- 3/8 chain or 4 spots with 4 strands of 9 wire. These locations must be body to
body.
Mini Van Team
➢ Hoods-
o Hoods may be secured in one of the following ways:
o You may have 2- 1” threaded rod that welds to the top of the frame, may not go through the frame and
the only thing that can be welded to the frame is either the 1” nut or the 1” rod. (no washer may be
welded to the frame). Your other 2 tie downs may go to the body only with one of the following 2”X2” 1⁄4”
angle iron with a bolt, 2 spots of 4 strands of 9 wire or 2 spots with 3/8 chain.
o If you don’t use the threaded rod you may use 4 spots of body to body of one of the following: 2x2 1⁄4”
angle iron with a bolt, 4 spots of 4 strands of 9 wire or 4 spots of 3/8 chain.
o Your factory hinges do not count as a hood tie down.
➢ .Wheel Wells-
o 5- 3/8th bolts per wheel well with standard washers.
➢ Rust Repair-
○ You may only fix the floors where your feet, battery box, gas tank, etc (safety locations only)
○ Absolutely NO FRAME REPAIRS!!
➢ Cage-
○ All cage material can be no larger than 6” OD, unless specified for a specific rule smaller or larger.
All cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going
straight down. No cage material can be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or
components, and all cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which
cannot be altered.
○ You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, but do not connect
directly to frame. This bar must be within 12” from the driver seat. You may also have a single bar
(with no extensions), across your dash area to replace your dash. You may run (2) bars connecting
the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You may weld (2) down bars from the cage
to the body vertically or to the floor to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain
behind the inside door seam and can only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars
cannot not exceed 2”x3”.
○ Side bars may be up to 6”x6”, and cannot exceed 62” long, including the rollover bar.
○ You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be
welded or bolted to the roof.
➢ Gas Tank Protector-
○ Gas tank protector cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered between
your frame humps. It cannot exceed 32” wide. It can angle in from your roll over protection. It
cannot exceed the farthest point of your 62” side bars. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet
metal, which cannot be removed, measured from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat
area. Gas tank protector must be on all 4 sides of the tank, front, back, both sides. Gas tank
protector may extend 6” above the speaker deck.
➢ Rear Window Bars-
○ NO REAR WINDOW BARS!
➢ Front Window Bars-
○ You may have 2 locations of 3/8 chain or 2 locations of 4 strands of 9 wire.
○ Must be within 6” of window opening.
➢ Motors-
○ Motor mounts must remain stock unless otherwise specified in the rules.
○ Front Motor mount may be welded solid.
○ If running stock motor mounts you may chain your engine down with 2- 3/8 chain. No welding and
may not strengthen car.
○ You may run headers
○ No carbing EFI motors.
○ NO engine or header protectors.
➢ Radiator-
○ You may run any radiator.
○ No radi barrels allowed.
➢ Interior Equipment:
○ You may have the following: aftermarket steering column, shifter, gas and brake, transmission
cooler and battery box.
○ All equipment must be fashioned tightly to the vehicle! * We do not want to see anything come
loose during the event, if it does, your stick will be pulled. Ratchet straps will only be sufficient as a
backup.
○ You cannot use any interior equipment to strengthen the car in any way. If any equipment is
deemed to strengthen the vehicle, you will be required to relocate it.
○ All battery boxes and gas pedal/brake pedal must be bolted to sheet metal only; they cannot be
attached to the frame or cross member in any way. No Larger than 1⁄2” bolts and standard washers
may be used to mount items (No full plate washer’s underneath).
➢ Gas Tank-
○ 15-gallon tank max, Fuel cells must be well constructed and out of a durable material. No plastic
tanks, metal is preferred, boat tank type is fine. Any splashing, spilling, or leaking of fuel will result
in a broken flag. Fuel cells are recommended to be mounted to the gas tank protector/ cage. No
“Gas Tank Holders”. Fuel lines must be secured.
○ Fuel tank must be bolted or chained in place with a floor mat covering it. No ratchet straps unless it
is a secondary device.
pre rans get 4- 6x6 1/8 plates
Rules Questions? Contact Jon- 715-222-9368
○ 1⁄2 Ton Trucks Only
○ 2) 2WD and 4WD trucks and Suburbans are allowed. 4WD vehicles must remove the front drive
shaft. All frames must be pickup truck frames!
○ 3) Standard cab and standard box allowed, no altering, no exceptions! All cabs must match the
frame (Year & Make) they are going on.
○ 4) Maximum frame height is 28 inches, minimum frame height is 19 inches.
○ 5) No body or suspension lifts allowed. No flat beds, or any other style frames!
○ 6) Remove all glass, chrome, plastic, moldings, headliner, flammable material, A/C coolant,
antifreeze, trailer hitches and interior decorating.
○ 7) Stock gas tank must be removed. A small metal tank must be mounted in the rear seat area. The
tank must be very secure and covered. Use proper rated fuel lines.
○ 8) Plastic tanks must be in a metal box, no exceptions!! Electric fuel pumps are allowed but switch
must be clearly marked on/off.
○ 9) Floor shifters are allowed. Ignition and wiring modifications (hotwire) are allowed.
○ 10) Hood must have 12” x 12” minimum hole to easily extinguish fires. Extra hole(s) in hood are not
required if header holes are least 12” x 12”.
➢ Frame-
○ Nothing may be welded past 6 inches from the front of the frame. You may weld a 6”x6” plate to the
front of the frame to bolt your bumper to. 6” from the back of the bumper is all you get to mount the
bumper.
➢ Bumpers-
○ Loaded bumpers and manufactured bumpers are all allowed.
➢ Hood-
○ (6) locations of bolts, chains or 9 wire will be allowed, 1” max. (2) may go to frame, the other (4)
locations must be sheet metal to sheet metal. If you choose to use threaded rod it must be welded
vertically within 4” of the stock core support location, 1” max. Only one of these three may be used.
➢ Steering-
○ No welding or bracing tie-rods, must be a stock tie rod from a 1/2-ton truck. Aftermarket steering
columns are allowed.
➢ Engine-
○ Motors may interchange, but it must be within 4” of the factory location.
○ No distributor protectors & transmission braces
○ You are allowed a front lower cradle with pulley protector. Cradle must attach to a factory style
engine mount; this is the only way to tie the engine down. No part of the lower cradle can extend
any further back than 3” from the very last boss on a stock engine. Carb halos are allowed, nothing
can extend past the last spark plug hole on the block. No pan protectors, side bars, etc. can go
back towards the transmission to tie it in. Header protectors are allowed; this can be accomplished
with a piece of 4”x4”x1⁄4” welded around header or to carb halo only
➢ Transmission-
○ No transmission braces whatsoever.
○ A JB aluminum bell is allowed but may only be secured by the pump bolts. All sheet metal must be
at least a 1⁄2” from bell.
○ You may have a transmission cooler but cannot strengthen truck in any way and must be secured.
○ Any driveshaft allowed, including sliders.
➢ Radiators-
○ Must be in stock location.
○ Aftermarket stock radiators allowed.
○ You may bolt air conditioner condenser in front of radiator.
○ No homemade radiators. No radiator protectors allowed.
➢ Doors-
o Doors may be welded 5” on 5” off with nothing larger than 3” wide by 1⁄4” thick strapping. If you choose
not to weld, you are allowed to chain or 9 wire your doors shut.
Trucks
➢ Driver’s Safety-
○ You are allowed a driver’s door plate/protection. This cannot exceed past 3” of the driver’s door
seam either way.
○ All cage components cannot exceed 6” OD and cannot be any smaller then 2” OD. This cage is
strongly recommended for your safety!
○ You are allowed a dash bar, a bar behind the seat, and you can connect these 2 bars along the
inside of the doors. All cage components must be free floating, with 2 down legs to cab tin only!
Down bars cannot be anywhere near frame. Dash bar must be 6” away from transmission tunnel.
○ Rollover bar consists of (2) uprights and (1) horizontal bar over the cab. 2 downs bars can go to the
body up to 24” behind the halo.
○ Cab can be welded to box on the exterior only!
➢ Tires-
○ Any tire is allowed.
➢ Suspension-
o Maximum frame height is 28 inches to the top, minimum frame height is 19 inches to bottom. No
exceptions!
o Stock springs only, no homemade springs!
o You may clamp springs together with factory or homemade clamps, (6) per side. Homemade clamp size
cannot exceed 3” wide material and cannot be thicker than 3/8”. 7/16” bolts max is allowed to bolt the
homemade spring clamps together.
o No leaf conversions on 1989 and newer GM or Ford trucks unless they came factory with leaf spring
perch mounts. No exceptions!!
o 2x2” tube straight from axle to frame is allowed to get height.
➢ Batteries and Fuel Tank-
o Fuel cell is highly recommended to be in a steel box. This is to be located in the most forward center of
box or inside of cab. Gas line to be run in a protective conduit.
o Two batteries max, batteries must be covered or in a box. All battery boxes and fuel cells must be
mounted securely.
➢ Body Panels-
o No creasing is allowed.
➢ Body Bolts & Box-
o Body bolts can be replaced, up to 3⁄4” max rod. You may add (4) additional body bolts in the box, and
additional body bolts in the cab. These can be welded to the frame but must be vertical and cannot
exceed the 3⁄4” rod! 6”x 6” washers in stock mount locations are allowed.
o Box must remain upright and in stock location, no tucking, shortening, or other manipulation to the box
is allowed!
o All boxes that tucked themselves in during the event need to be straightened out in a respectable
manner if they want to run the next event.
o You are allowed a plate for you gas tank to sit on, the plate can be 3” wider in all directions of your fuel
cell. It must be free floating and can be bolted to sheet metal only, you cannot connect it to your
back-seat bar or cab or roll bar.
➢ Tailgate-
o Tailgate must remain upright in the stock location. Tail gate may be dropped a maximum of 8” but must
remain vertical. You may weld tailgate to frame or bumper. No tucking of tail gate is allowed.
o You have (3) ways of fastening your tailgate. You may weld a 3” wide strap per seam, or Chain/9 Wire
at (2) locations per seam. Outside only.
➢ Rear Ends-
o No braced rear ends are allowed! Factory 5 or 6 lug rear ends only, no 8 lug rear ends allowed! (1)
additional 3/8” chain per side is allowed to hold rearend in place.
➢ Repair-
○ No Plated Fresh Trucks!
○ Pre-run trucks get up to 3”x12”x1/4” thick of plating per rail. It must be on a clearly bent area, not
stress marks. When this plating is gone it is gone, you do not get 13”.
Rules Questions? Contact Jon- 715-222-9368
• Fullsize Chain Stock
o $3,000
o $2,000
o $1,000
o $400
o Maddog: $300
• FWD Midsize Chain
o $1,000
o $800
o $400
o Maddog: $300
• Suv/ Mini Vans
o $1,000
o $800
o $400
o Maddog: $300
• ½ Ton Trucks
o $1,000
o $800
o $400
o Maddog: $300
Old Iron & 80’s and Newer- This class is Super Stock Class. Build to the rules not the gray areas in
between the rules. It is impossible to cover every gray area of the rules, use your common sense when
building. No 1973 & Older Imperials or Hearses are allowed.
➢ Seam Welding-
○ No frame seam welding is allowed.
➢ Shortening-
○ You may shorten the front most part of the frame rails only. You may cut the frame off at the front
most part of the core support mount. The entire core support mount must be completely intact. If
you remove the core support mount at all or shorten it too much you will be loaded.
○ Cadillacs must measure 18” from front side of spring pocket lip to the front of frame in a straight
line, not diagonal.
➢ Frame Shaping-
○ No frame shaping is allowed.
➢ Frame Repair-
○ If your frame is rusted through or bent call first, if you do not call us, do not expect us to allow you
to run! Must be same thickness as frame, piece may be butt welded in, no overlap, frame rust can
be cut out, but we need picture evidence before you do so.
○ No res-stubbing of frames is allowed.
➢ Engine Cross Member-
○ Engine crossmember must be completely stock.
➢ Engine Attachment-
○ Engine can be attached to the frame in two spots using a factory style rubber engine mount or weld
down plates where a traditional clamshell mount would be, these can be welded to the
crossmember and connected to the engine. Your motor mounts/plates and welds holding them
must say at least 1” from the factory seam connecting the engine crossmember to the frame. The
motor mounts can only be welded to the top of the engine crossmember.
○ You will be allowed (2) additional 2”x4"x1/4” plates or (2) 3/8” chain (4 links) to secure your engine
to the crossmember. These can be welded to the crossmember only and connected to the engine.
➢ 03+ Engine Attachment-
○ Lower cradle must attach to the factory crossmember towers and holes. You may use JFC Lower
Engine Cradle (call for pictures) Other ways of mounting your cradle are a 6”x6” 1⁄4” plate to attach
a legal style rubber engine mount to for this class.
○ No part of the engine cradle or engine mounts may attach, touch or wrap any part of aluminum
crossmember or frame rails other than the crossmember towers.
○ There should be nothing between the frame rails and aluminum towers, this includes lower cradle
etc.
➢ Transmission Cross Member-
○ You must run the factory transmission cross member in the stock location for the car you are
building. If the car you are running did not have a crossmember in it, you can replace the cross
member, it can be no larger than 2”x2”x1/4” square tubing or 2”x1/4” round tubing. Crossmember
must be butt welded into place on the inside of the frame rail.
○ The transmission cross member must be one piece and must be straight from side to side (no extra
material in crossmember and no arched cross members). Crossmember cannot be refabricated in
any way. If this is used as a strength advantage you will cut.
○ You are required to drill a 1⁄2” hole in the crossmember on the bottom side 6” from a frame rail for
inspection purposes. If the hole is not drilled in the frame you will be required to come back for tech
with a hole drilled.
○ The transmission cross member is the only method which the transmission may be tied in. Nothing
can be attached to the crossmember besides the transmission mount.
○ Cadillac frame extensions/tails cannot come in contact, be welded, or connected to the
transmission crossmember.
➢ Transmission Attachment-
○ Transmission can be bolted in place using a factory transmission mount or chained (3/8” max)/ 9
wired (4 strands max) to the crossmember. This is simply to attach the transmission to the
crossmember, if you use any of these methods to strengthen the car you will be required to remove
it completely.
Fullsize Chain
➢ Bumper-
○ You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. The bumper chrome must remain the
stock shape, but you may have metal put inside for reinforcement. You may trim bumper ends or
fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. Weld them solid, we
do not want them coming off. Bumpers must be in stock location. The bumper must be completely
in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the
frame rails.
○ If you choose to manufacture a homemade bumper it must either:
■ Conform to the following size limits. It can be no larger than 8”x8”. The point must taper
over an area of at least 32” wide and cannot exceed 12” wide/deep at the tip of the point.
The point may only extend out 4” from the flat part of the bumper. No Part of the bumper
may extend past the front most part of the frame rails.
■ Conform to the stock dimensions of a bumper legal for this class. It must follow the
dimensions of the stock bumper in height, depth, and point specifications. You do not need
a skin or backing if following the stock dimensions. If you are manufacturing a bumper to
these specifications, you need to have the bumper approved prior to the show.
○ Front and rear bumpers may have (2) spots of #9 wire (4 loops) or 3/8” Chain from radiator
support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not
frame).
○ Bumper can be mounted to the frame/bracket only, not to body other than the 9 wire or chain
mentioned previously.
➢ Bumper Brackets- You get 2 choices, pick 1 or the other, not both!
○ You can use the stock bracket that came factory on the car. The position of the stock must be
completely factory, but it can be compressed. You can weld the shock to the frame once
compressed to prevent it from moving, but only 6” back from the front of frame. If there is any
welding further than the first 6” you will be required to cut it completely loose. Bumper must then
mount to the factory bracket, not to frame.
○ You can remove the factory shock and use (1) 4” wide 3/8” thick flat strap to attach the bumper to
the frame. This plate and the welds holding it cannot exceed 6” long. This bracket can only be on
one side of frame. You can wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an “L” shape.
This is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. If choosing not to use the
strap, you can hardnose the bumper directly to the frame.
○ “Y” Frame cars can collapse the Y, but no seam welding may be added to the seam.
➢ Rear Frame Rails-
○ Notching/Dimpling is allowed, pre-bending rear frame rails is not allowed.
○ Rear frame rails cannot be tied together besides the rear bumper.
Wheels, Suspension and Steering
➢ Vehicle Height-
○ Cannot exceed 21” to the bottom of the bumper/frame from the ground and it must be a minimum
of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame in the rear, whichever is lower. Rear
rails behind the hump cannot be higher than 22”!
➢ Rear Suspension-
○ Any leaf sprung vehicle must remain leaf sprung. Any coil car vehicle must remain coil sprung.
○ The rear of cars can be squatted and chained to stiffen the rear suspension or gain your desirable
ride height. This can be accomplished with (1) 3/8” chain per side wrapped around the rear-end
and wrapped around the frame. Absolutely no welding anywhere on this chain. On a unibody rear
vehicle, you can cut 2 holes for this chain to pass through the body.
○ Threaded rod from the rearend to package tray is not allowed, the only way to set the height on the
vehicle is the chain mentioned previously.
➢ Coil Sprung Vehicles-
○ Coil sprung vehicles may stretch or replace springs to get rear bumper height. No doubled springs
are allowed! Springs cannot be welded together or to the rear-end or any sheet metal. You may
chain or wire the springs to the rear-end using 3/8” chains, or #9 wire (4 strands max). Do not run
any of these through the body or you will cut them, that would be considered a body mount. This is
not to be used as a strength advantage, only to keep the springs in your car.
Fullsize Chain
➢ Leaf Sprung Vehicles-
○ Leaf sprung vehicles cannot restack their pack. They leaf pack must be completely stock and in the
factory location. You can add (4) leaf clamps on each set of springs, these may be homemade, but
cannot be more than 4” long x 2” wide x 1⁄4” thick, 1/2” bolts may be used to clamp these together.
➢ Tires and Wheels-
○ Any tire is allowed.
➢ Rear-Ends & Mounting-
○ Use OEM rear end of choice, no aftermarket rear ends allowed. You can change the internals of the
rearend with aftermarket parts (gears, axles, etc.) Stock appearing postals are allowed call with
questions. Welded or Posi-track highly recommended.
○ You are allowed to weld stock sized (for the vehicle you are running) control arm mounts to the rear
end to mount the rearend. This is simply to mount the rear end; nothing can enforce the car!
○ The rearend cannot have any additional bracing on it.
○ No Hybrid Setups.
➢ Control Arms-
○ Swapping control arms with another completely stock control arm is allowed. You can shorten
control arms for a more desirable pinion angle, but they can only be butt welded back together, no
additional bracing is allowed.
➢ Watts-Conversion-
○ No watts-conversions allowed.
➢ Front Suspension and Steering-
○ All steering components besides steering column must be stock to a car ran in this class.
Aftermarket ball joints, tie rods spindles, hubs, center links, sway bars, steering boxes, or
A-arm/control arms are NOT allowed.
○ No welding of any steering components to frame unless specified in these rules. Stabilizer/sway
bar cannot meet any cradle components, must be removed if running a pulley protector, and must
mount in a factory manner.
➢ Steering Columns-
○ Modifying steering columns by adding joints or the ability to slide is allowed, aftermarket steering
columns are allowed. These are not allowed the strengthen the car in any way.
➢ Springs-
○ Front springs must be an OEM stock spring with no bracing or reinforcement. You may stretch
springs to get bumper height. No doubling of springs is allowed. Aftermarket/solid/compressed
springs are not allowed; we must be able to inspect inside the spring pocket! Spring spacers are
not allowed.
○ Spring must float in the frame; they cannot be secured to the frame or a-arm straps in any way!
Nothing can be inside the spring pocket besides the spring or threaded rod mentioned below!
➢ 03+ Suspension-
○ On 2003 and newer FOMOCO products only, you may add a spacer block on top or bottom of strut
to gain height.
➢ A- Arms/Control Arms-
○ A -arms may be welded OR bolted down but may not be reinforced. You can only weld OR bolt the
A-arm down, not both. You have (2) options for securing the control arm down, none can
strengthen the car in any way:
○ If bolting you are allowed (2) 1⁄2” bolts per upper A-Arm, these can only pass through the top side
of the frame with a 1⁄2” nut up inside of the frame. A single 1⁄2” fender washer can be used on the
top and bottom.
OR
○ If welding you are allowed (2) 2” x 2” x 1/8” straps per A-Arm, these can go directly from the A-Arm
to frame. No added material other than the straps mentioned. You cannot alter the A-Arm in any
way to allow you to weld more, only the straps mentioned!
Fullsize Chain
BODY
No other seams may be welded other then what is outlined in these rules! Absolutely no exceptions.
➢ Doors-
○ Driver door may be welded shut using nothing wider than 3” x 1/8” strapping, this is for driver
safety, if anything is done excessively you will cut!
○ You may patch weld, chain or #9 wire your doors in (8) locations per door using 2”x2”x1/8” plates,
3/8” Chain, or #9 wire (4 strands). Only (2) of these can go around the frame per door. If we do not
deem the car safe to compete you will add more fastening points. On a 4-door car, at the split
between the front door and back door, these fastening points are considered shared, this means
that they count against your total for both doors.
○ You can add bracing to the exterior side of the driver’s door. Drivers Door bracing must not stick
any further out than 2” from the door and may not have any sharp edges. You are also allowed to
carry the bracing up to 3” past the exterior driver door seam either forward or backward.
○ Doors can be folded over along the top (where the window comes through) but cannot be welded
or bolted back together.
➢ Shaping-
○ No body shaping allowed.
➢ Body Mounts-
○ Only factory body mounts allowed, don’t even touch them.
➢ #9 Wire in Window Openings-
○ No #9 wire allowed in this class.
➢ Hoods and Front Clips-
○ Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Holes cannot be bolted back
together.
○ Hoods must be in the stock location; you can remove the hinge, but hood must stay in the factory
location. You are not allowed to add more attachment points if removing hinges.
○ You are allowed (6) spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of (4) tie down spots. You
may have up to 3/4” all- thread for the front core support mount.
○ Your front (2) rods must go through core support mount. The core support rod can only be held in
with a standard 3⁄4” nut and washer, absolutely no welding is allowed on this rod.
○ The other (4) connections must be sheet metal to sheet metal only using chain (3/8” max) 9 wire (4
strands) or angle iron (4” long, 2” x 2”, 1⁄4” material with a bolt through it) is allowed.
○ You are allowed 3⁄4” threaded rod at other 4 locations, no bigger mounting pad then washed on
hood!
○ All hood bolts must be placed outside the windshield bars. You may have washers for hood tie
down, not to exceed 5”x5”x1/4” square or 6” x1/4” round. These cannot be welded to the hood.
➢ Core Supports-
○ Core support must be factory to the vehicle you are running and must remain in the factory
location, no sliding forward or backwards.
■ It must line up with the stock bolt holes, you may use the factory bolts and bolt holes to
attach core support to fenders. No other material may be added to attach the core support
to the fender unless otherwise noted.
○ If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed (2) 3/8” bolts
and 1.25” diameter washers to bolt back to the core support per fender.
○ Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid.
○ If running a core support spacer, it cannot be welded, it must only be held in by the threaded rod!
○ Core Support Spacers cannot exceed 3” square material and cannot extend up any further than the
bottom of the core support.
Fullsize Chain
➢ Trunks/ Hatch-
○ You can do a simple 90-degree tuck to fold the trunk lid over. Do not slide your trunk forward or
back, trunk must remain on hinges. This is the only trunk manipulation you are allowed!
○ Trunk lids must have at least two 6” inch holes or one 12” hole cut in the first 60% of the trunk lid
(holes in trunk floor will not count) for inspection purposes, you cannot have any bolts holding the
two layers back together. If these holes are strategically placed so that we cannot see what we
want to see to inspect the inside of the trunk you will be asked to cut more or bigger holes.
○ Your trunk lid may NOT be V’D or canoed in the center.
○ (2) 3/4” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan. Threaded rod must either
pass through a body mount hole if connecting to frame, and you must have a 1” spacer between
the body and frame, or if welding to frame rod must be welded vertically and no more than 4” of
weld. Threaded rod must pass through trunk lid and not through fender or roof. There may be
single 3⁄4” nut inside the trunk to tighten the floor to frame, and a single 1-1/2” flat washer. Nothing
else inside the trunk is allowed. You will be allowed (2) washer on the trunk for the threaded rod not
to exceed 5”x5”x1/4” square or 6”x1/4” round.
○ Washers cannot be welded to the body.
○ Trunk can be fastened shut in (6) other locations then the threaded rod previously mentioned to
bind the seams. You can use either chain (3/8” max), 9 wire (4 strands), 6- 1/8th 2x2 patches. You
must have a minimum of (2) tie down spots.
➢ Firewall-
○ You can cut or remove firewall for distributor to pass through. Absolutely no pounding or shaping of
firewall for a strength advantage. You cannot use your firewall as a brace. If the firewall is deemed
to be enforcing car, you will have to remove it to judge’s discretion.
○ You will be allowed (4) 2”x 1/4” straps to attach dash bar to firewall, no more than 2” of welding or
material on firewall.
○ These must be outside the hole cut in the firewall, none of these can be connected to any protector
or window components.
➢ Miscellaneous-
○ GM Wagons must remove all rear decking and seat components.
○ No fresh sedagons allowed, the roof must be in factory location at the start of the event.
➢ Sheet Metal Rust Repair-
○ DO NOT cut any sheet metal you are repairing out. Sheet metal must be same thickness as body,
repair sheet metal must remain flat, no forming or rolling plate to add strength. This metal can
exceed 2” past rusty metal. Picture evidence is required.
Cage
A 4-point cage and some sort of rollover protection is mandatory; this is a non-option. Safety is our
#1 priority.
A 4-point cage consists of a dash bar, a bar behind your seat, and 2 bars connecting those bars
running along your doors. Either a bar that extends up from the back-seat bar, behind your seat, and
is welded/bolted to the roof, or a halo bar that extends up from thenside bars, and connects with a
bar across the top of the roof will be sufficient for rollover protection.
➢ 4 Point Cage-
○ All cage material may be no larger than 6” diameter.
○ Door bar lengths are not to exceed 62”. This bar must not extend more than 18” behind
the center post on a four-door car and 10” behind the center post on a two-door car.
○ Dash bar and seat bar can only be 6” diameter or less and you may use only one, no
doubling of these bars.
○ All cage components must be on the inside of the vehicle.
○ The bar behind the seat can be no further than 6” behind the seat and must follow the
center post rule above.
○ Cage may be gusseted at each joint and one on each side of the gas tank protector.
○ All bars must be straight bars nothing contoured to the body.
○ All cage components must be a minimum of 4” off the floor, except for down legs that you
will be allowed. Dash bar will be measured at the transmission tunnel; all other bars will be
measured at body bolt elevation (This includes the gas tank protector).
○ No cage components may be welded to the frame.
○ All cage components must be at least 6” away from the firewall at the start of the event.
Fullsize Chain
➢ Down Bars-
○ You will be allowed (4) down legs total that can attach to body sheet metal only. Down legs
can be no bigger than 2”x3”x1/4”, unless being used as halo bar, welded to the door bars,
and they must be vertical. They cannot extend higher than the cage bar unless being used
as your rollover bar. If these legs are welded to the front or back of the door bar they will
be added to the total length of the bar, which is still not allowed to be longer than 62”. Legs
must be attached to the main 4-point cage, NOT the gas tank protector. The down legs
cannot be attached to or cover any body bolts. Front down legs cannot extend further past
the INTERIOR front door seem and rear seat down bar cannot extend any further
backward then the rear of the door bar based the door bar criteria above.
➢ Halo/ Rollover Bars-
○ Must be attached to the 4-point cage following the length of bar rules above. Can be
welded to sheet metal only (see down bar rule above!) with no larger material than 6”.
Must be vertical, not angled forward or back. The bars may be welded or bolted to the
roof. This counts as (2) of your down bars.
➢ Gas Tank Protector-
○ Gas tank protector cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered
between your frame humps. It cannot exceed 32” wide. It can angle in from your roll over
protection. It must be a full 3” away from all sheet metal, which cannot be removed or
hammered to get you closer to the frame. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet
metal, which cannot be removed, measured from the highest flat area of the floor in the
rear seat area. Gas tank protector must be on all 4 sides of the tank, front, back,both
sides. Gas tank protector may extend 6” above the speaker deck.
➢ .Rear Window Bar-
○ Rear window bars will not be allowed.
➢ Front Window Bars-
○ For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield straps centered in the car extending from the
roof of the car to the firewall/dash. If welding front window bars, you can weld it to the
factory sheet metal only. If choosing to bolt, you are allowed a 4”x4”x1/4” plate that can be
welded to the bar top and bottom, this cannot be welded to the car in any way. Straps
cannot be any larger than 3”x1/4” flat strap and must be 14” apart at firewall. You are not
allowed to connect these straps in any way. No more than 6" from the front window
opening of strap material allowed on the roof and no more than 6" of strap material
allowed on the firewall. Do not go over the 6” or you will cut.
○ Front window bars can only be attached to sheet metal, not any cage components.
○ If not using a strap, you must have either 3/8” chain or 9 wire (4 strands), in the front
window opening, sheet metal to sheet metal only to prevent the hood from coming into the
driver’s compartment.
Drive Train, Braces, Aftermarket and Interior Equipment
➢ Drive Shafts-
○ Slider drive shafts are allowed.
➢ Motors-
○ Use motor of choice, motor must be in a stock like location.
➢ Radiators-
○ Any automotive or aftermarket radiator is allowed, when mounting the radiator, you must
NOT reinforce the core support in any way. Radiator must be mounted in core support in
factory location.
○ No radi-barrels or additional cooling capacity devices allowed.
○ The radiator can be spray foamed in place to protect the radiator, but if we feel there is
weld being hidden by the spray foam you will need to provide evidence there is not.
○ No radiator enclosures or fan protectors allowed.
○ The only thing allowed to be in front of your radiator is a stock automotive air conditioning
condenser, (4) bolts maximum.
➢ Engine Protectors-
○ Distributor Protectors, Midplates, Distributor Cap Protectors, or Full Cradles are NOT
allowed! A midplate is a plate that that goes between the engine and transmission. Only
exception is if using for a BOP transmission (stock bell adapter nothing over inch taller
than stock bell) do not think this is a gray area because you will sit on the trailer!
○ You are allowed a front lower cradle with pulley protector. Cradle must attach to a factory
style engine mount; this is the only way to tie the engine down. No part of the lower cradle
can extend any further back than 3” from the very last boss on a stock engine. Carb halos
are allowed, nothing can extend past the last spark plug hole on the block. No pan
protectors, side bars,carb halos, etc. can go back towards the transmission to tie it in.
Header protectors are allowed, this can be accomplished with
a piece of 4”x4”x1⁄4” welded around header or to carb halo only.
➢ Transmission Equipment-
○ Only a stock style aftermarket aluminum bellhousing is allowed. Skid plates, transmission
braces, aftermarket tail housings, or aftermarket cases are not allowed or permitted in this
class.
➢ Transmission Cooler, Battery, Pedals, Shifter, etc-
○ All equipment must be fashioned tightly to the vehicle! * We do not want to see anything
come loose during the event, if it does, your stick will be pulled. Ratchet straps will only be
sufficient as a backup.
○ You cannot use any interior equipment to strengthen the car in any way. If any equipment
is deemed to strengthen the vehicle,you will be required to relocate it.
○ All battery boxes and gas pedal/brake pedal must be bolted to sheet metal only; they
cannot be attached to the frame or cross member in any way. No Larger than 1⁄2” bolts
and standard washers may be used to mount items (No full plate washer’s underneath).
➢ Gas Tank-
○ 15-gallon tank max, Fuel cells must be well constructed and out of a durable material. No
plastic tanks, metal is preferred, boat tank type is fine. Any splashing, spilling, or leaking of
fuel will result in a broken flag. Fuel cells are recommended to be mounted to the gas tank
protector/ cage. No “Gas Tank Holders”. Fuel lines must be secured.
○ Fuel tank must be bolted or chained in place with a floor mat covering it. No ratchet straps
unless it is a secondary device.
This is meant to be an easy build that you can put together in a week with a
few buddies. If you are spending a significant amount of time to build the
car or read into these rules, you are most likely over built and will cut or be
loaded!
PRE RAN CARS> CALL OR TEXT WE ARE ALLOWING A COUPLE PLATES IF NEEDED NOT JUST GIVING PLATES TO WELD ON IN THIS CLASS... SO IF YOU NEED TO REPAIR A CAR CALL OR TExT BEFORE DOING IT (pre approval)
Rules Questions? Contact Jon- 715-222-9368
FWD CHAIN
General Rules-
○ FWD ONLY!!
○ No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except
where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. No painting in the interior of the car.
○ All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
○ All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
○ All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
○ Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and
covered.
○ You must have a number in bright colors on each front door and must have at least the size of a
15”x15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. You
cannot use the roof sign to strengthen the car.
○ All cars must have working brakes.
○ NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld,
other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will
not run!!
➢ Shortening-
○ You may shorten up to the core support.
➢ Bumper-
○ You may have a car bumper or you may have a 6”x4” piece of tubing on instead. No loaded
bumpers or manufactured bumpers, seam welded is fine!!
○ If running a tube bumper the ends of the tube may be cut and curled towards the cab of the vehicle.
➢ Bumper Brackets-
○ You get 6” bumper bracket, this will be measured from the back of the bumper. Anything past 6” will
need to be cut off. Cannot exceed the height of the frame (example: a Camry frame rail is taller
than a W Body, so the plating on a Camry will be taller than the plating on a W Body.)
○ Your bracket may be on all 4 sides, again not exceeding 6” from the back of the bumper.
○ Rear Bumper must follow the same rules.
➢ Tires & Wheels-
○ Any tires and wheels allowed.
➢ .Rear Ends-
○ You may have 2- 3/8” chains total to hold the rear end down.
➢ Front Suspension & Steering-
○ All struts, spindles, ball joints and tie rods must remain factory.
○ You may run a spring spacer or a strut clamp. But they may not reinforce the strut in anyway. This
should only be used to gain ride height.
○ The only thing you may replace is the steering column.
➢ Doors-
○ The doors may be secured by one of the following ways: you can weld the doors shut with a 3”x5”
1/8” thick piece 2 per vertical seam, you can have 2 -3/8” chain per vertical seam or 2 spots of 4
strand nine wire per vertical seam.
➢ Body Shaping-
○ You may body crease but absolutely no welding of any crease, etc.
➢ Body Mounts-
○ All body mounts must remain factory in the factory location. If a body mount is rusted out, you may
replace it with a 3/8th bolt. Call with any questions after that.
➢ #9 Wire-
○ No 9 wire in any window openings.
➢ Trunks & Hatches-
○ Trunks may be 90 degree tucked.
○ You may choose one of the following options for your 4 tie downs on the trunk: 4- 3”x5” 1/8th
” thick
patches welded, 4- 3/8 chain or 4 spots with 4 strands of 9 wire. These locations must be body to
body.
➢ Hoods-
o Hoods may be secured in one of the following ways:
o You may have 2- 1” threaded rod that welds to the top of the frame, may not go through the frame and
the only thing that can be welded to the frame is either the 1” nut or the 1” rod. (no washer may be
welded to the frame). Your other 2 tie downs may go to the body only with one of the following 2”X2” 1⁄4”
angle iron with a bolt, 2 spots of 4 strands of 9 wire or 2 spots with 3/8 chain.
o If you don’t use the threaded rod you may use 4 spots of body to body of one of the following: 2x2 1⁄4”
angle iron with a bolt, 4 spots of 4 strands of 9 wire or 4 spots of 3/8 chain.
o Your factory hinges do not count as a hood tie down.
➢ .Wheel Wells-
o 5- 3/8th bolts per wheel well with standard washers.
➢ Rust Repair-
○ You may only fix the floors where your feet, battery box, gas tank, etc (safety locations only)
○ Absolutely NO FRAME REPAIRS!!
➢ Cage-
○ All cage material can be no larger than 6” OD, unless specified for a specific rule smaller or larger.
All cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going
straight down. No cage material can be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or
components, and all cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which
cannot be altered.
○ You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, but do not connect
directly to frame. You may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to
replace your dash. You may run (2) bars connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front
doors only. You may weld (2) down bars from the cage to the body vertically or to the floor to
protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seam and can
only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot not exceed 2”x3”.
○ Side bars may be up to 6”x6”, and cannot exceed 62” long, including the rollover bar.
○ You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be
welded or bolted to the roof.
➢ Gas Tank Protector-
○ Gas tank protector cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered between
your frame humps. It cannot exceed 32” wide. It can angle in from your roll over protection. It must
be a full 3” away from all sheet metal, which cannot be removed or hammered to get you closer to
the frame. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal, which cannot be removed, measured
from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat area. Gas tank protector must be on all 4
sides of the tank, front, back, both sides. Gas tank protector may extend 6” above the speaker
deck.
○ If running a wagon you must follow the sedan rules. We will measure it as a sedan.
➢ Rear Window Bars-
○ NO REAR WINDOW BARS!
➢ Front Window Bars-
○ You may have 2 locations of 3/8 chain or 2 locations of 4 strands of 9 wire.
○ Must be within 6” of window opening.
➢ Motors-
○ Motor mounts must remain stock unless otherwise specified in the rules.
○ You may chain your engine down with 2- 3/8 chain. No welding and may not strengthen car.
○ You may run headers.
○ No carbing EFI motors.
○ NO engine or header protectors.
➢ Radiator-
○ You may run any radiator.
○ No radi barrels allowed.
➢ Interior Equipment:
○ You may have the following: aftermarket steering column, shifter, gas and brake, transmission
cooler and battery box.
○ All equipment must be fashioned tightly to the vehicle! * We do not want to see anything come
loose during the event, if it does, your stick will be pulled. Ratchet straps will only be sufficient as a
backup.
○ You cannot use any interior equipment to strengthen the car in any way. If any equipment is
deemed to strengthen the vehicle, you will be required to relocate it.
○ All battery boxes and gas pedal/brake pedal must be bolted to sheet metal only; they cannot be
attached to the frame or cross member in any way. No Larger than 1⁄2” bolts and standard washers
may be used to mount items (No full plate washer’s underneath).
➢ Gas Tank-
○ 15-gallon tank max, Fuel cells must be well constructed and out of a durable material. No plastic
tanks, metal is preferred, boat tank type is fine. Any splashing, spilling, or leaking of fuel will result
in a broken flag. Fuel cells are recommended to be mounted to the gas tank protector/ cage. No
“Gas Tank Holders”. Fuel lines must be secured.
○ Fuel tank must be bolted or chained in place with a floor mat covering it. No ratchet straps unless it
is a secondary device.
pre ran cars are allowed 4-6x6 1/8 plates cannot split up.
Rules Questions? Contact Jon- 715-222-9368
○ FWD Vans/ suv class
○
○ No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except
where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. No painting in the interior of the car.
○ All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
○ All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
○ All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
○ Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and
covered.
○ You must have a number in bright colors on each front door and must have at least the size of a
15”x15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. You
cannot use the roof sign to strengthen the car.
○ All cars must have working brakes.
○ NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld,
other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will
not run!!
➢ Shortening-
○ You may shorten up to the core support.
➢ Bumper-
○ You may have a car bumper or you may have a 6”x4” piece of tubing on instead. No loaded
bumpers or manufactured bumpers, seam welded is fine!!
○ If running a tube bumper the ends of the tube may be cut and curled towards the cab of the vehicle.
➢ Bumper Brackets-
○ You get 6” bumper bracket, this will be measured from the back of the bumper. Anything past 6” will
need to be cut off. Cannot exceed the height of the frame (example: a Camry frame rail is taller
than a W Body, so the plating on a Camry will be taller than the plating on a W Body.)
○ Your bracket may be on all 4 sides, again not exceeding 6” from the back of the bumper.
○ Rear Bumper must follow the same rules.
➢ Tires & Wheels-
○ Any tires and wheels allowed.
➢ .Rear Ends-
○ You may have 2- 3/8” chains total to hold the rear end down.
➢ Front Suspension & Steering-
○ All struts, spindles, ball joints and tie rods must remain factory.
○ You may run a spring spacer or a strut clamp. But they may not reinforce the strut in anyway. This
should only be used to gain ride height.
○ The only thing you may replace is the steering column.
➢ Doors-
○ The doors may be secured by one of the following ways: you can weld the doors shut with a 3”x5”
1/8” thick piece 2 per vertical seam, you can have 2- 3/8” chain per vertical seam or 2 spots of 4
strand nine wire per vertical seam.
➢ Body Shaping-
○ You may body crease but absolutely no welding of any crease, etc.
➢ Body Mounts-
○ All body mounts must remain factory in the factory location. If a body mount is rusted out, you may
replace it with a 3/8th bolt. Call with any questions after that.
➢ #9 Wire-
○ No 9 wire in any window openings.
➢ Hatches-
○ You must leave your hatch in stock location or it may be removed completely.
○ You may choose one of the following options for your 4 tie downs on the trunk: 4- 3”x5” 1/8th
” thick
patches welded, 4- 3/8 chain or 4 spots with 4 strands of 9 wire. These locations must be body to
body.
Mini Van Team
➢ Hoods-
o Hoods may be secured in one of the following ways:
o You may have 2- 1” threaded rod that welds to the top of the frame, may not go through the frame and
the only thing that can be welded to the frame is either the 1” nut or the 1” rod. (no washer may be
welded to the frame). Your other 2 tie downs may go to the body only with one of the following 2”X2” 1⁄4”
angle iron with a bolt, 2 spots of 4 strands of 9 wire or 2 spots with 3/8 chain.
o If you don’t use the threaded rod you may use 4 spots of body to body of one of the following: 2x2 1⁄4”
angle iron with a bolt, 4 spots of 4 strands of 9 wire or 4 spots of 3/8 chain.
o Your factory hinges do not count as a hood tie down.
➢ .Wheel Wells-
o 5- 3/8th bolts per wheel well with standard washers.
➢ Rust Repair-
○ You may only fix the floors where your feet, battery box, gas tank, etc (safety locations only)
○ Absolutely NO FRAME REPAIRS!!
➢ Cage-
○ All cage material can be no larger than 6” OD, unless specified for a specific rule smaller or larger.
All cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going
straight down. No cage material can be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or
components, and all cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which
cannot be altered.
○ You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, but do not connect
directly to frame. This bar must be within 12” from the driver seat. You may also have a single bar
(with no extensions), across your dash area to replace your dash. You may run (2) bars connecting
the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You may weld (2) down bars from the cage
to the body vertically or to the floor to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain
behind the inside door seam and can only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars
cannot not exceed 2”x3”.
○ Side bars may be up to 6”x6”, and cannot exceed 62” long, including the rollover bar.
○ You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be
welded or bolted to the roof.
➢ Gas Tank Protector-
○ Gas tank protector cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered between
your frame humps. It cannot exceed 32” wide. It can angle in from your roll over protection. It
cannot exceed the farthest point of your 62” side bars. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet
metal, which cannot be removed, measured from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat
area. Gas tank protector must be on all 4 sides of the tank, front, back, both sides. Gas tank
protector may extend 6” above the speaker deck.
➢ Rear Window Bars-
○ NO REAR WINDOW BARS!
➢ Front Window Bars-
○ You may have 2 locations of 3/8 chain or 2 locations of 4 strands of 9 wire.
○ Must be within 6” of window opening.
➢ Motors-
○ Motor mounts must remain stock unless otherwise specified in the rules.
○ Front Motor mount may be welded solid.
○ If running stock motor mounts you may chain your engine down with 2- 3/8 chain. No welding and
may not strengthen car.
○ You may run headers
○ No carbing EFI motors.
○ NO engine or header protectors.
➢ Radiator-
○ You may run any radiator.
○ No radi barrels allowed.
➢ Interior Equipment:
○ You may have the following: aftermarket steering column, shifter, gas and brake, transmission
cooler and battery box.
○ All equipment must be fashioned tightly to the vehicle! * We do not want to see anything come
loose during the event, if it does, your stick will be pulled. Ratchet straps will only be sufficient as a
backup.
○ You cannot use any interior equipment to strengthen the car in any way. If any equipment is
deemed to strengthen the vehicle, you will be required to relocate it.
○ All battery boxes and gas pedal/brake pedal must be bolted to sheet metal only; they cannot be
attached to the frame or cross member in any way. No Larger than 1⁄2” bolts and standard washers
may be used to mount items (No full plate washer’s underneath).
➢ Gas Tank-
○ 15-gallon tank max, Fuel cells must be well constructed and out of a durable material. No plastic
tanks, metal is preferred, boat tank type is fine. Any splashing, spilling, or leaking of fuel will result
in a broken flag. Fuel cells are recommended to be mounted to the gas tank protector/ cage. No
“Gas Tank Holders”. Fuel lines must be secured.
○ Fuel tank must be bolted or chained in place with a floor mat covering it. No ratchet straps unless it
is a secondary device.
pre rans get 4- 6x6 1/8 plates
Rules Questions? Contact Jon- 715-222-9368
○ 1⁄2 Ton Trucks Only
○ 2) 2WD and 4WD trucks and Suburbans are allowed. 4WD vehicles must remove the front drive
shaft. All frames must be pickup truck frames!
○ 3) Standard cab and standard box allowed, no altering, no exceptions! All cabs must match the
frame (Year & Make) they are going on.
○ 4) Maximum frame height is 28 inches, minimum frame height is 19 inches.
○ 5) No body or suspension lifts allowed. No flat beds, or any other style frames!
○ 6) Remove all glass, chrome, plastic, moldings, headliner, flammable material, A/C coolant,
antifreeze, trailer hitches and interior decorating.
○ 7) Stock gas tank must be removed. A small metal tank must be mounted in the rear seat area. The
tank must be very secure and covered. Use proper rated fuel lines.
○ 8) Plastic tanks must be in a metal box, no exceptions!! Electric fuel pumps are allowed but switch
must be clearly marked on/off.
○ 9) Floor shifters are allowed. Ignition and wiring modifications (hotwire) are allowed.
○ 10) Hood must have 12” x 12” minimum hole to easily extinguish fires. Extra hole(s) in hood are not
required if header holes are least 12” x 12”.
➢ Frame-
○ Nothing may be welded past 6 inches from the front of the frame. You may weld a 6”x6” plate to the
front of the frame to bolt your bumper to. 6” from the back of the bumper is all you get to mount the
bumper.
➢ Bumpers-
○ Loaded bumpers and manufactured bumpers are all allowed.
➢ Hood-
○ (6) locations of bolts, chains or 9 wire will be allowed, 1” max. (2) may go to frame, the other (4)
locations must be sheet metal to sheet metal. If you choose to use threaded rod it must be welded
vertically within 4” of the stock core support location, 1” max. Only one of these three may be used.
➢ Steering-
○ No welding or bracing tie-rods, must be a stock tie rod from a 1/2-ton truck. Aftermarket steering
columns are allowed.
➢ Engine-
○ Motors may interchange, but it must be within 4” of the factory location.
○ No distributor protectors & transmission braces
○ You are allowed a front lower cradle with pulley protector. Cradle must attach to a factory style
engine mount; this is the only way to tie the engine down. No part of the lower cradle can extend
any further back than 3” from the very last boss on a stock engine. Carb halos are allowed, nothing
can extend past the last spark plug hole on the block. No pan protectors, side bars, etc. can go
back towards the transmission to tie it in. Header protectors are allowed; this can be accomplished
with a piece of 4”x4”x1⁄4” welded around header or to carb halo only
➢ Transmission-
○ No transmission braces whatsoever.
○ A JB aluminum bell is allowed but may only be secured by the pump bolts. All sheet metal must be
at least a 1⁄2” from bell.
○ You may have a transmission cooler but cannot strengthen truck in any way and must be secured.
○ Any driveshaft allowed, including sliders.
➢ Radiators-
○ Must be in stock location.
○ Aftermarket stock radiators allowed.
○ You may bolt air conditioner condenser in front of radiator.
○ No homemade radiators. No radiator protectors allowed.
➢ Doors-
o Doors may be welded 5” on 5” off with nothing larger than 3” wide by 1⁄4” thick strapping. If you choose
not to weld, you are allowed to chain or 9 wire your doors shut.
Trucks
➢ Driver’s Safety-
○ You are allowed a driver’s door plate/protection. This cannot exceed past 3” of the driver’s door
seam either way.
○ All cage components cannot exceed 6” OD and cannot be any smaller then 2” OD. This cage is
strongly recommended for your safety!
○ You are allowed a dash bar, a bar behind the seat, and you can connect these 2 bars along the
inside of the doors. All cage components must be free floating, with 2 down legs to cab tin only!
Down bars cannot be anywhere near frame. Dash bar must be 6” away from transmission tunnel.
○ Rollover bar consists of (2) uprights and (1) horizontal bar over the cab. 2 downs bars can go to the
body up to 24” behind the halo.
○ Cab can be welded to box on the exterior only!
➢ Tires-
○ Any tire is allowed.
➢ Suspension-
o Maximum frame height is 28 inches to the top, minimum frame height is 19 inches to bottom. No
exceptions!
o Stock springs only, no homemade springs!
o You may clamp springs together with factory or homemade clamps, (6) per side. Homemade clamp size
cannot exceed 3” wide material and cannot be thicker than 3/8”. 7/16” bolts max is allowed to bolt the
homemade spring clamps together.
o No leaf conversions on 1989 and newer GM or Ford trucks unless they came factory with leaf spring
perch mounts. No exceptions!!
o 2x2” tube straight from axle to frame is allowed to get height.
➢ Batteries and Fuel Tank-
o Fuel cell is highly recommended to be in a steel box. This is to be located in the most forward center of
box or inside of cab. Gas line to be run in a protective conduit.
o Two batteries max, batteries must be covered or in a box. All battery boxes and fuel cells must be
mounted securely.
➢ Body Panels-
o No creasing is allowed.
➢ Body Bolts & Box-
o Body bolts can be replaced, up to 3⁄4” max rod. You may add (4) additional body bolts in the box, and
additional body bolts in the cab. These can be welded to the frame but must be vertical and cannot
exceed the 3⁄4” rod! 6”x 6” washers in stock mount locations are allowed.
o Box must remain upright and in stock location, no tucking, shortening, or other manipulation to the box
is allowed!
o All boxes that tucked themselves in during the event need to be straightened out in a respectable
manner if they want to run the next event.
o You are allowed a plate for you gas tank to sit on, the plate can be 3” wider in all directions of your fuel
cell. It must be free floating and can be bolted to sheet metal only, you cannot connect it to your
back-seat bar or cab or roll bar.
➢ Tailgate-
o Tailgate must remain upright in the stock location. Tail gate may be dropped a maximum of 8” but must
remain vertical. You may weld tailgate to frame or bumper. No tucking of tail gate is allowed.
o You have (3) ways of fastening your tailgate. You may weld a 3” wide strap per seam, or Chain/9 Wire
at (2) locations per seam. Outside only.
➢ Rear Ends-
o No braced rear ends are allowed! Factory 5 or 6 lug rear ends only, no 8 lug rear ends allowed! (1)
additional 3/8” chain per side is allowed to hold rearend in place.
➢ Repair-
○ No Plated Fresh Trucks!
○ Pre-run trucks get up to 3”x12”x1/4” thick of plating per rail. It must be on a clearly bent area, not
stress marks. When this plating is gone it is gone, you do not get 13”.
Rules Questions? Contact Jon- 715-222-9368