Post by bender8 on Aug 31, 2021 19:10:07 GMT -5
2021 Williamson County Fair Demolition Derby’s
Friday Oct. 8th and Saturday Oct 9th.
Marion IL. Starts at 7pm both days.
Friday will run Gut-n-Go big cars, Bone Stock Minis and Stock Minivan classes. Saturday will run the Stock big car and Metric/old school classes.
Presented by Baker Racing
Questions on rules call or text josh baker (618)697-0743 or Joshua Baker on FB. (RULES POSTED ON WECRASH AND WILLIAMSON COUNTY FAIR WEBSITE)
Bone Stock Rules:
(Old iron and 80’s up cars ok in this class. No Imperials, suicides, hearse,or limos.)
DO NOT READ ANYTHING INTO THESE RULES, JUST READ THE RULES!! If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T!
Or you will be loaded, your choice! NO black cars, dark cars must have contrasting letter/numbers. DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame, we will not even inspect your car. - Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons
- All Drivers must pick up trophies, earnings at the completion of the event, or forfeit them. They will not be available after that date.
COMPETITION RULES: - Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet, seat belt, eye protection and steering wheel on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.
- Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rules. If you use the door defense repeatedly you will be disqualified.
- No hot rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.
- Any open door will be cause disqualification, you are allowed one fire, and then second fire will be cause for disqualification. You may return in later rounds.
- Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show, put one on for them! - You must make AGGRESSIVE HIT every 60 seconds. - You will be given ample time for restarts. We do not use the clock exclusively. We try to work with you if you are hung up. Hitters get more time than sandbaggers. - This is not a team event; team driving will not be tolerated.
- Any questions, CALL FIRST. Don’t assume anything. The Officials decision is final.
“Pre Ran Cars will be allowed 3 – 4” x 4” -1/4” plates for repairs”
Body
- No sedagons, ZERO crease enhancement, ZERO sheet metal or frame shaping, forming or folding. - Deck and Hood must be 100% in stock location and open for inspection. After inspection you may tuck trunk to the floor with one single 90* bend.
- Wagons ONLY if you remove your tail gate may have 6 places of wire 2 strands max must be behind axle sheet metal to sheet metal only roof to floor.
- Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added. – All cars competing must have a hood on at all times to run.
- Fasten trunks, hoods, tail gates in 6 places, 2 strands of #9 wire (Sheet metal to sheet metal only)
or 6 locations using ½ bolts with store bought washers through the drip rail in the trunk. You may also use angle no longer than 2” long and a single ½” bolt to hold hoods shut.
-Door seams may have no more than 6” of weld, vertical seam only. Drivers door may be welded 12 inches total on vertical seams only. 2” x 1/4” strap.
-BODYMOUNTS:
-You may have upto a 6” core support spacer (it may not be welded if metal)
- If you choose to change your core support mounts with 2 of your threaded rods, you get 3 plates 1/4x 5”x 5” max, 7- 5/8 nuts ,7 -3"OD max 1/8 thick washers per threaded rod CORE SUPPORT ONLY. If core support bolts are changed, this will count for 2 of your 6 mounts.
-Body mounts and spacers to remain stock and in place. DO NOT EVEN TOUCH THEM! Exception, You may change a total of 6 body bolts out, with 5/8"x 30" long threaded rod max with 3 nuts, 3- 5/8 store bought washers and 3-5”x5” 1/4" thick plates per rod. Must be straight vertical rod only, no bends or angle pieces. Must have 1 inch rubber or metal spacer no larger than stock body pucks and all bottom nuts must be inside frame. If they are broken or rusted out, a single piece #9 wire may be substituted. ZERO welding allowed to mount this rod. Rusted out body bolts may be removed and replaced with a single strand of #9 wire.
- No attaching body bolts to any part of the cage/roll over bar.
- #9 wire or chain required in front windshield.
FRAMES:
-Pre Ran Cars will be allowed 3-4x4 plates per rail for repairs
- You may dimple your rear frame rails only to achieve the frame to roll
- NO welding, bolting, wiring or adding any material/substance to strengthen frames. -At Inspectors discretion frames will be drilled, wire wheeled or wiped down. – Absolutely not painting or spraying any material on frames or welds. Cars will not be inspected.
- No cold bending frames at all!! All frames will be checked with a straight edge.
SUSPENSION and STEERING:
- You may weld 2 straps per upper A-Arm 2”x2” to maintain ride height.
- You may change coil springs to a stiffer oem passenger car spring.
- You may use store bought spring spacers (no homemade spacers or spacers on top of the springs)
- You may use a single strand #9 wire to hold coil spring to rear end. Leaf spring cars may use 4 single strands #9 wire as leaf clamps per spring stack.
- All suspension and steering must remain stock ( unless a modification is stated ).
- Aftermarket steering columns and shafts are allowed. These components may not strength car in anyway at anytime.
- Tie rods maybe reinforced in only 1 of the following 2 ways; 1) sleeve maybe discarded and pipe/solid rod tapped can be put in it's place. 2) Factory sleeve and ends maybe welded and reinforced with steel. Tie rod ends must be factory ends and fit the spindle and drag link without reaming the holes larger. A store bought washer maybe placed over the steam of the tie rod and welded.
- Upper A arms maybe interchanged as long as there able to be bolted on. You may cut/ trim to make fit but no welding on brackets etc. A arm must bolt on factory brackets of frame, no drilling new holes or enlarging existing holes. Example: 80-91 box ford a arms being installed on a 98-02. Cut the mounting bar out and trim the edges of a arms to get height.
-Rear control arms may be changed but must be stock. You may shorten but max 2” overlap.
- 98 up watt links conversion will be allowed only in the following way!! Upper trailing arm brackets must be bolted in. They must be 2 separate brackets, may not be larger than 6”x 12”x 3/8” thick max. 4- 5/8 bolts, nuts and 8 washers per bracket. Brackets may only be bolted to tow package and bolts may not stick thru body. Brackets may not strength frame or body. NO WELDING AT ALL OF UPPER BRACKETS.
-98 up watt links LOWER BRACKET Conversion. Only 1 way will be allowed to mount lower trailing arm bracket. 1 piece of square tube 3”x 3”x 3/8”x 3” long max per side of frame maybe used. Cut the square tube to make a C channel. It must be welded to the inboard of the frame at the point you want your trailing arm mounted. Drill your hole thru the tube and only 1 thickness of the frame. Bolt your arm into place. No other bolts will be allowed to mount this bracket. No factory mounting brackets will be allowed to mount the trailing arms.
DRIVETRAIN:
- ANY drive train & transmission (manual transmissions allowed, no aftermarket bell housings, no trans brace, no mid plates, OEM transmission case only )
-you may run a basic front plate and lower engine cradle with pulley protector, but it must be mounted to the car with oem style mounts.
-no engine chains, unless approved with pictures
Rear axle
- Any factory 5 lug axle but must be 31 spline or less with cast flanges. No aftermarket axles ) (8 lug rears are ok as well)
- Rear end brace will be allowed.
- No axle savers.
-Pinion brake is ok
- All money winners will have to load on trailer, and pull axles before payout, we will check inside of tubes at this time.
- You may run 3/8 chain around rear end back to the frame with only each end of the chain welded back to the frame for ride height control. Any extra chain links or weld on the frame will cause you to run working suspension.
DRIVERS COMPARTMENT :
- 4 point square cage only, (1) down tube in the center of each front door welded to sheet metal only nothing to the frame. max 60 inch cage over all measurement. 6 inch max, Must be mounted horizontally and 6 inches off floor. Gussets only in interior of 4 point cage.
- Gas tank mount may be welded to back bar, but bar and fuel cell/tank must be 4 inches from rear sheet metal. See below for mounting fuel tank/ cell to floor.
- Halo bar allowed is allowed, 2-1/2 bolts with 1/2 washers to attach to roof. The halo bar may only be attached to the back seat bar or sidebars, not to floor.
- Drivers door must be padded.
- Gas tank and batteries must be moved and secured. Tank behind the seat, Battery centered in the passenger front floor.
- Nothing may be mounted in a way that strengthens the car.
- Trans coolers allowed. Must be mounted inside 4 point cage area. Or on cage must be tight to cage if mounted on back bar.
Bumpers:
- You may hardnose front and rear bumpers if desired, but no shortening rear frame. Follow rules below if using a shock.
- You may weld on any DI approved bumper(see below). Bumper brackets (in factory location) maybe weld continuously to frame 4 inches from the back of bumper only. In addition you may put 4 one inch welds on back side of bumper bracket or to weld shock inside frame(example Crown Vics).
You may shorten 80 and newer fords up to an inch in front of the core support mount you may also be hard nosed.
Call with special cars to mount bumper legally. Rear brackets on rear and front brackets on front. - Or you may chain, 2 piece of chain per side BOLTED from the mount to mount to hold on the bumper.
- Bumper height must be 16" to 22" measured to the bottom of the frame at the back and front body mount location.
-Bumper may not exceed 9’’x9’’. - BUMPERS are interchangeable for all cars. -IF you start with a stock/replacement bumper you are allowed to re-enforce inside of bumper
- Bumper must appear stock from the stands with no spike or protruding items.
-If your bumper will not fit in a factory skin, it is too big.
- You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame - Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires/ no sharp ends. - Bumpers may be flipped (upside down).
TIRES & BRAKES: - No tires taller than 30". 4 wheels max per car. No dual tires. - No split rims, studded tires or 100% solid wheels, you may use aftermarket center with various bolt patterns, solid centers are fine. Welds must be approved by judges on rear tires. Stay off the area of the rim the tube touches, except to weld your center into the rim.
- Valve stem protectors allowed, Valve stem protectors may not extend more than 6 inches from valve stem. Not allowed to be a rim protector. -Inner bead locks must not extend past stock tire bead area, not to exceed 2 inches wide. 1 inch outer lip ring allowed on outside bead.
- Doubled or foam filled tires allowed. - All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
- You may not change tires after inspection, ride height will be measured with your competition tires only.
Simple rules, simple build, keep it that way. Again do not get "creative" or read into these rules, let’s get back to the basics. If it is not clearly described above, it is not allowed. If it doesn't say you can you cant.
Metric/Old School Rules
(cars with DPS can run but have to have firewall cut out as wide as dp to allow it to pass through.)
ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL Only 50% of your car can be painted black! NO ALL BLACK CARS!!!!
All cars will get 2- 4”x 4”-1/4” plates to use how you see fit.
Pre ran cars will get 4 - 4” x 4”-1/4” plates
*you may bend them, fold them, etc
* they can attach body to frame
* you may not use them as a driveline kicker or anything that violates any of the rules below.
* if you cut them, the piece you cut you throw away.
Model specific RULES
Metric Cars (see definition below) YOU ARE ALLOWED A 6” x 22”x 1/4” THICK ARCH PLATE. MUST BE CENTERED ON THE HUMP AND ON THE WHEEL SIDE OF THE HUMP. DOES NOT HAVE TO BE CONTOURED TO FRAME CAN RUN STRAIGHT ACROSS. YOU ARE ALLOWED TO TILT YOUR CARS AT THE CRUSH BOX BY CUTTING THE FLAPs OR a V notch at the crossmember. 8” Tall by 3” square or round material MAX SPACER AT CORE SUPPORT
Old Iron sedans
6” x 12” x ¼” arch plate must be centered on the hump, and on the wheel side of the frame, does NOT have to be contoured to the frame/ can be straight across.
Max 4" spacer at core support
General
1. ANY American made Passenger car or station wagon. (Metric cars are MOST 1977 & UP GM, 1979 & NEWER FORD, MERCURY, CHRYSLER AND 1980 AND NEWER LINCOLNS) IF YOU HAVE MODEL THAT IS IN QUESTION CALL, DO NOT ASSUME! No trucks, Imperials, jeeps, hearses, limousines.
2. Fresh Sedagons are NOT allowed.
3. All glass, side windows, rear windows, headlights and taillights, must be removed before reaching inspection. Rolling down windows is not permitted.
4. All interior seating,
5. Cars must have a seatbelt and working brakes. MANDATORY
6. Battery must be securely fastened and covered in passenger compartment. TWO BATTERIES ARE ALLOWED.
7. Front Windshield Bar is MANDATORY and is limited to a 2” wide x ¼” thick strap, chain, 9 wire loop, 2x2 angle. This can be attached to roof to each side of your distributor cut out area.
8. NO REAR WINDOW BAR
Body Mounts
1. 5/8” max diameter body bolts
2. Body spacer is 1” thick by 3” diameter max
3. Trunk/cargo area (center of rear axle to the bumper) may have up to 1” all-thread in 4 locations
3a. your trunk all thread may have 2 welded to the side of the frame and 2 through a factory location.
3b. only 4” of your all thread can be welded to the frame and must be a continuous bead down one side only. On your 2 added spots No bending it in a U-shape around the frame or through the side of the frame.
4. core support may have up to 1” diameter all thread Your locations in the trunk / core support / cargo area can extend through the trunk, roof, deck lid or hood. You may use up to 4” hold down plates.
5. You get 3 (4” plates and 3 nuts to attach each piece of threaded rod) example when going through the trunk you may have a plate/nut on the bottom side of the frame, inside the trunk on top of the frame and a plate/nut on top side of the trunk. You may not have one on the bottom of the trunk to keep it from pushing down. Same with hood and roof areas.
6. The remaining spots that you choose not to extend through the hood, deck lid, roof, trunk area are to use 5/8” diameter bolts, factory size washers, 1” thick spacer between body and frame.
7. NONE of your body mounts may attach to the cage or any part of the cage.
GAS TANKS AND FUEL PUMPS
1. Stock gas tank MUST be removed from original position. All tanks must have a secure cap. A marine tank or fuel cell is strongly recommended. All lines and fitting must be leak proof and meet approval of the track officials. Electric fuel pumps are allowed
2. All lines must be run inside car, not along the frame underneath.
RADIATOR AND CORE SUPPORT
1. Radiator must be in stock position
2. Any automotive or racing type radiator can be used.
3. No homemade radiators allowed
4. No reserve tanks and no added cooling capacity.
5. One electric fan, mounted to the radiator, may be used.
6. DO NOT MOVE CORE SUPORT
7. Factory condenser or 32” wide by 1/4" thick MESH radiator protector
BODY
1. No body seams may be welded. No metal may be added.
2. No doubling of body panels allowed, no added metal allowed.
3. BODY CREASING IS allowed.
4. Fenders may be bolted together. Max of 10- 3/8” BOLTS.
5. Doors may be chained, wired, or welded. on the car body. When welding doors 6 in on 6 in off all the way around
6. No creasing, welding, doubling of transmission tunnel… if you touch it you will cut it out
7. You may switch bodies with same manufacturer and model type of car, if you have questions please shoot me a message.
DRIVER SAFETY
1. Drivers Door can be welded SOLID and may have a door plate on outside
2. Passenger door must be welded 6 inches on 6 off. May have a door plate on the inside of door
SUSPENSION
1. A-Arms are allowed to be welded down by using 2 pieces of 2”x 2” x 1/4” per arm (1 front & 1 Rear)
2. If you weld anywhere else on A-arm, or use bigger strap than allowed….you will cut it all off and run working suspension.
3. Spring spacers are allowed but nothing allowed above top of spring
4. Tie rods must have factory appearing ends, No heims! You may brace the center tube with angle or pipe. Aftermarket is fine but must have a factory type end!
5. Factory spindle swaps are ok, ford to Chevy etc. GM factory lift spindles are ok (No fabricated spindles or aftermarket hubs)
6. You may Replacement ball joints, screw in or aftermarket are ok
7. You may change A-arms from new style to old style A-arms. Must bolt in factory
8. NO All-Thread Shocks in the front.
9. No welding on the wishbone mount of the a-arms to the frame or a-arm.
HOODS
MUST BE OPEN AT INSPECTION!
1. Hoods must have two (2) holes, at least four (4) inches in diameter on each side of the carburetor. Not directly on top of the carburetor. If the hood is removed, either the fan or fan belt must be removed.
2. Hoods may be secured by 2 pieces of 1” all thread outboard the radiator. Cannot be sleeved. * Meaning spacer/square tube stops at bottom side of core support*
3. You are allowed 10 pieces of double stranded #9 wire across the front of car from bumper to hood/core support.
4. You may have up to 10 (3/8”) bolts to hold the inner and outer hood skins together.
5. Hoods can be held shut with “one” of the following options,
A (8) LOCATIONS 2” long pieces of 2” x 2” angle with a single 3/8” bolt thru them
B (8) pieces of # 9 wire attaching hood to fender.
C. (8) Locations 3/4" diameter max bolts going through hood into inner fender with 2”x2” max washer
TRUNKS
1. You are allowed 10 pieces of double stranded #9 wire from bumper to bottom of trunk lip.
2. You can weld trunks 6 on 6 off like the doors with max 4” wide by ¼ thick
3. You may crease the trunk and quarter panels, and rear pillar.
4. You can have up to 4- 1” pieces of threaded rod through your trunk, but this counts towards your body mount rule.
5. 2- 6” inspection holes in the trunk. You may use 4- 3/8” bolts to bolt the layers back together at the edges of the hole.
SAFETY CAGES
1. All cars must have a safety cage and roll over bar. (can be in the doors)
2. A 4-point cage is required
3. Cage can be made out of 4” pipe, 4” square tubing, or 6”x2” box tube MAX.
* Your cage must have a dash bar (4” off firewall minimum)
* Bar behind driver’s seat
* 2 side bars connecting your dash bar to your seat bar. (one per side) Cannot extend past wheel well tubs or firewall.
* These are the minimum requirements; your cage is for your safety… not to strengthen the car. NO part of your cage can be a kicker to the frame or any driveline component. 4” gap required.
4. Roll over bar cannot be more than 6” behind driver’s seat. Roll over bar can NOT attach to frame. *Weld or Bolt it to sheet metal only. A 6” x 6” plate may be used in aiding it to be attached to floor sheet metal. Roll over bar can be bolted to roof
5. The cage can be welded to sheet metal only. You can have up to four (4) down posts, two (2) per side.
6. All down tubes must be at or behind the dash bar, straight up and down. Welded to sheet metal only.
7. Gas tank protector 24” WIDE MAX AND MAY BOLT TO THE PACKAGE TRAY WITH 2 (5/8”) BOLTS
8. You may weld or bolt your roll over bar to the roof in 3 places.
9. Your cage can NOT extend through the floor pan in any way.
FRAMES
1. No welding, plating, or reinforcing of the frame.
2. All factory frame holes must be left open.
3. Any reinforcing of frame found will result in disqualification. NO Fixing Allowed…You Will Be LOADED!
4. Sub frame cars cannot be tied together. If you want to run a full frame car, buy a full frame car, don’t build one.
5. CORE SUPPORT AND CORE SUPPORT MOUNTING TAB MUST REMAIN IN FACTORY LOCATION.
6. aftermarket steering columns are ok
7. Rear frame rails may not be shortened.
8. NO Frame shaping
BUMPERS
1.Bumpers maybe loaded. Everything inside factory envelope of the bumper.
2. Bumpers may be hardnosed, you may use a piece of 2” square or round stock 6” long as a bumper shock or a factory piece of bumper bracket 6” long. (either way anything beyond the 6” mark gets cut off) * this must attach to the bumper and extend back a maximum of 6”
3. You may do the following to aid in keeping your bumpers attached *Weld 2 straps per frame horn from the bumper to the frame of the car no further than 6” back on to the frame. (maximum strap size 6” long, 3” wide and ¼” thick.) Flat on the sides of the frame, this is to aid in keeping the bumpers on DO NOT ABUSE THIS.
4. Bumpers can be no higher than 26” from the ground to the top of the bumper or lower than 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper.
5. Replica bumpers are legal example 74 ski bumper, 76 scheltema, Replica chrysler pointy, etc
6. All homemade bumpers require picture approval and a tape measure in the picture.
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION
1. Any engine or transmission may be used in any car, but must be mounted within 6” of the original motor. Engine cannot protrude into the passenger compartment before the race.
2. FULL ENGINE CRADLE is allowed minus Distributor Protector
3. Mid plate can be NO taller than 1” above the bell bolts on the transmission. Halo or carb protector can NOT be further back than the centerline of the Carb.
4. Aftermarket Motor Mounts are legal, NO Horizontal Bar Mounts or welding cradle to frame directly
5. Transmission oil coolers and engine oil coolers are permitted.
6. Pulley protectors are allowed, but sway bar must be removed or not able to intentionally touch before or after race!! 2” gap before the event minimum.
7. Factory aluminum engine cradles in 2003 and newer cars may NOT be changed. You may run a steel adapter pedestal to mount your engine in the car. This may bolt to the 4 main cradle bolt locations and to the 2 aluminum stations on the factory cradle. It may run from passenger rail to driver rail with a max of 8” wide and ½” material thickness.
8. HOMEMADE Gas Pedals and Shifters Are allowed, but may not reinforce the car in anyway.
9. OEM cross member or 2 x 2 square/ round tube. *1 single crossmember for all model cars
10. May weld a piece of 3” x 3” x 6” angle to frame to aid in attaching cross member
11. Transmission modifications -Steel bells and steel tails are ok
12. Aftermarket transmission brace is ok, if making homemade it must be same size and design as approved aftermarket ones. (mounting point to crossmember is limited to the width of the nerat tail housing mounts or 6” wide) Plated transmission pan is ok, and can attach to pan and bell.
REAR END / Rear Suspension (leaf spring rules apply only to factory equipped cars / coil suspension rules apply to only those factory equipped)
1. Any automotive or aftermarket rear end
2. Slider drive shaft is permitted.
3. You may have five (5) spring clamps per spring. Maximum 1" wide 1/4 thick
4. ZTR style brackets are legal, but must use factory trailing arms to mount rear end. If bolted through package tray, sheet metal must be cut around washer. (so it isn’t adding a body mount)
5. If you shorten the trailing arms. Maximum overlap when shortening 2” No doubling or reinforced trailing arms.
6. You may chain or wire your axle to the frame hump. (2 CHAIN LINKS WELDED TO FRAME MAX) *NO OPENING CHAIN LINKS TO GAIN LENGTH*
7. Rear leaf springs must remain factory thickness and width per leaf * you may have up to 8 springs with 2” stagger, no doubling main leafs. * 5 clamps total per pack (can be homemade 1” wide ¼” strapping) * ½ diameter max u bolts, 4 total.
8. Coil springs maybe doubled or swap fronts to rear or vice versa.
9. ZTR top brackets max size 6”x12”. ZTR lowers no larger than 4” square tube x 6” long
10. You may utilize all thread rear shocks to adjust your ride height. They can only attach with a single bolt to the rear end like a factory shock and go through the package tray or package tray area with a single nut and store-bought washer on top. NO nut on bottom (must be able to move in the downward direction if enough force is applied/ limits height only)
TIRES
1. Any Tires black and round.
2. Rims can have full centers, small 1" wide bead stiffener, and small 2" beadlock. No full size external beadlock or tire guards allowed.
If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t assume that you can. ASK first or don’t do it! Everybody needs to read and re-read these rules. If you are found to be over built for these rules, you will be given 2 options. A. CUT OR REMOVE ILLEGAL PARTS. B. LOAD ON TRAILER AND GO HOME. Either way you will NOT RECEIVE A REFUND
RUST REPAIR
Drivers compartment floor pans from firewall to front side of the package trey can be repaired with the following method. (cut rusted area out, replace with the same thickness material, max overlap is 1” and stitch weld it back in 1” inch skip 1” ) If it is thicker than factory you will cut 100% out. *Wagons this will be no further than the centerline of the axle.
If you repair other areas without approval you will cut it out, not window it out.
Bone Stock Compact Rules
109” wheelbase or less. FWD and RWD are allowed, but NO FRAMERS
NO CARB SWAPS
Bumpers must remain 100% stock OEM that came with car and unaltered, NO
EXCEPTIONS. No welding or reinforcing. (NO STUFFING UNIBODIES, WE
WILL BE SCOPING THEM). You can have 2 strands of #9 wire per side from
bumper to core support to keep bumper from falling off.
Driver door can be welded solid. Passenger door can ONLY be welded if you
will have a passenger riding with you. This is not to strengthen the car in any
way; it is for driver safety ONLY.
Hood and trunk must be held shut with chain or #9 wire only. Both will be
enforced.
You can have a maximum of 4-point cage that does not extend more than 12”
behind seat. You can have fuel tank protector but it can only be wide enough to
protect fuel cell. (NOT DOOR TO DOOR). You can also have a halo bar.
All cars MUST have some sort of window bar or strap to keep the hood from
coming into the car.
Fuel tank must be removed and a metal boat tank or homemade metal tank
mounted in rear seat area. Battery (maximum of 2) needs to be mounted in
passenger floorboard.
Suspension needs to remain stock other than you can weld strut shaft to make
car sit higher.
Any tire with small wheel centers ONLY.
If you plan to have a passenger, the passenger side door needs to have some
kind of padding along the inside of the cage.
PRE-RAN CARS WILL BE ALLOWED 2- 4X4 PATCH PLATES PER RAIL.
If you have a question regarding the rules please contact Josh Baker
618-697- 0743.
Gut and Go Big Car Class(100%stock class)
Most any passenger vehicle car manufactured 1980 or newer allowed.
No limos, hearses, vans, trucks, or SUVs. RWD or FWD cars allowed. No AWD or 4WD cars allowed.
Remove ALL glass, molding, bumper covers, interior, etc. Please completely strip car and un-needed items.
Battery and gas tank must be relocated inside the car. Both must be safely secured with no movement of any kind. Stock tank is allowed, but must be safely relocated and covered.
CARS MUST REMAIN STOCK! No engine swap, trans swap, or differential swap allowed (Ford-Ford, Chevy-Chevy, Mopar-Mopar, etc.). Fuel system must remain stock from factory. No carb swap (Carb-Carb, Fuel Injection-Fuel Injection, etc.).
Headers are allowed!
Factory Rearend ONLY Any stock OEM style bumper manufactured 1980 or newer allowed. No extreme point, no seam welding, no stuffing, etc. STOCK. No homemade bumpers allowed. No hardnose allowed. Bumpers must be mounted on factory bumper mounts. Bumper may be welded to factory mount ONLY. . No welding the mount to the frame.
No slider drive shafts allowed.
4-point cage ONLY. You are allowed 2 down tubes per side, but they cannot connect to the frame. Your roll bar cannot go below the back seat bar; if it does it will be counted as one of the down tubes.
Stock steering column ONLY. No after market.
Stock pedals and shifters ONLY. No after market.
No frame tilting, notching, or dimpling allowed. STOCK. No welding of any type on frame. No plates. No body creasing, welding, or bolting of any type.
Trunk deck must remain in stock location. Doors, hood, and trunk must be wired or chained shut. Hoods may be fastened down in a max of 5 places with #9 wire or chain. Wire/chain cannot run in front of the radiator. Trunk may be wired or chained in a max of 5 places.
No homemade wheels allowed . Any style rubber tire allowed.
Stock suspension ONLY. No spacers, welding, blocks, etc. STOCK. This is a strictly STOCK and FUN class! Simple rules, simple build, so keep it that way. Do not get "creative" or read into these rules, let’s get back to the basics. If it is not clearly described above, it is not allowed. If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T!! All officials’ decisions are final.
Pre Ran Cars will be allowed 2 – 4” x 4” – ¼” plates per rail to be used as needed.
MINI VAN RULES
Chain and bang
1. Vans must be stripped completely.
2. Fuel cells and batteries must be moved and secured inside the vehicle
3.4 point cage and halo bar are mandatory.
4. Any rubber tires.
5. Hoods,doors, and hatches may only be secured with chain or 9 wire or duct tape. The front 2 doors may be welded solid if u wish for driver and passenger protection!!! No bolts or threaded rod to secure the hood,doors or hatches!
Any factory non loaded bumper off anything can be used as long as its not
Pointy. Can also use a piece of square tubing as a front bumper.
Payouts per class
Stock mini Stock Big Metric/old School Vans Gut and Go
1st $1000 $2000 $2000 $1000 $1000
2nd $500 $1000 $1000 $500 $500
3rd $300 $500 $500 $300 $300
MADDOG TROPHIES IN ALL CLASSES.
Friday Oct. 8th and Saturday Oct 9th.
Marion IL. Starts at 7pm both days.
Friday will run Gut-n-Go big cars, Bone Stock Minis and Stock Minivan classes. Saturday will run the Stock big car and Metric/old school classes.
Presented by Baker Racing
Questions on rules call or text josh baker (618)697-0743 or Joshua Baker on FB. (RULES POSTED ON WECRASH AND WILLIAMSON COUNTY FAIR WEBSITE)
Bone Stock Rules:
(Old iron and 80’s up cars ok in this class. No Imperials, suicides, hearse,or limos.)
DO NOT READ ANYTHING INTO THESE RULES, JUST READ THE RULES!! If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T!
Or you will be loaded, your choice! NO black cars, dark cars must have contrasting letter/numbers. DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame, we will not even inspect your car. - Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons
- All Drivers must pick up trophies, earnings at the completion of the event, or forfeit them. They will not be available after that date.
COMPETITION RULES: - Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet, seat belt, eye protection and steering wheel on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.
- Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rules. If you use the door defense repeatedly you will be disqualified.
- No hot rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.
- Any open door will be cause disqualification, you are allowed one fire, and then second fire will be cause for disqualification. You may return in later rounds.
- Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show, put one on for them! - You must make AGGRESSIVE HIT every 60 seconds. - You will be given ample time for restarts. We do not use the clock exclusively. We try to work with you if you are hung up. Hitters get more time than sandbaggers. - This is not a team event; team driving will not be tolerated.
- Any questions, CALL FIRST. Don’t assume anything. The Officials decision is final.
“Pre Ran Cars will be allowed 3 – 4” x 4” -1/4” plates for repairs”
Body
- No sedagons, ZERO crease enhancement, ZERO sheet metal or frame shaping, forming or folding. - Deck and Hood must be 100% in stock location and open for inspection. After inspection you may tuck trunk to the floor with one single 90* bend.
- Wagons ONLY if you remove your tail gate may have 6 places of wire 2 strands max must be behind axle sheet metal to sheet metal only roof to floor.
- Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added. – All cars competing must have a hood on at all times to run.
- Fasten trunks, hoods, tail gates in 6 places, 2 strands of #9 wire (Sheet metal to sheet metal only)
or 6 locations using ½ bolts with store bought washers through the drip rail in the trunk. You may also use angle no longer than 2” long and a single ½” bolt to hold hoods shut.
-Door seams may have no more than 6” of weld, vertical seam only. Drivers door may be welded 12 inches total on vertical seams only. 2” x 1/4” strap.
-BODYMOUNTS:
-You may have upto a 6” core support spacer (it may not be welded if metal)
- If you choose to change your core support mounts with 2 of your threaded rods, you get 3 plates 1/4x 5”x 5” max, 7- 5/8 nuts ,7 -3"OD max 1/8 thick washers per threaded rod CORE SUPPORT ONLY. If core support bolts are changed, this will count for 2 of your 6 mounts.
-Body mounts and spacers to remain stock and in place. DO NOT EVEN TOUCH THEM! Exception, You may change a total of 6 body bolts out, with 5/8"x 30" long threaded rod max with 3 nuts, 3- 5/8 store bought washers and 3-5”x5” 1/4" thick plates per rod. Must be straight vertical rod only, no bends or angle pieces. Must have 1 inch rubber or metal spacer no larger than stock body pucks and all bottom nuts must be inside frame. If they are broken or rusted out, a single piece #9 wire may be substituted. ZERO welding allowed to mount this rod. Rusted out body bolts may be removed and replaced with a single strand of #9 wire.
- No attaching body bolts to any part of the cage/roll over bar.
- #9 wire or chain required in front windshield.
FRAMES:
-Pre Ran Cars will be allowed 3-4x4 plates per rail for repairs
- You may dimple your rear frame rails only to achieve the frame to roll
- NO welding, bolting, wiring or adding any material/substance to strengthen frames. -At Inspectors discretion frames will be drilled, wire wheeled or wiped down. – Absolutely not painting or spraying any material on frames or welds. Cars will not be inspected.
- No cold bending frames at all!! All frames will be checked with a straight edge.
SUSPENSION and STEERING:
- You may weld 2 straps per upper A-Arm 2”x2” to maintain ride height.
- You may change coil springs to a stiffer oem passenger car spring.
- You may use store bought spring spacers (no homemade spacers or spacers on top of the springs)
- You may use a single strand #9 wire to hold coil spring to rear end. Leaf spring cars may use 4 single strands #9 wire as leaf clamps per spring stack.
- All suspension and steering must remain stock ( unless a modification is stated ).
- Aftermarket steering columns and shafts are allowed. These components may not strength car in anyway at anytime.
- Tie rods maybe reinforced in only 1 of the following 2 ways; 1) sleeve maybe discarded and pipe/solid rod tapped can be put in it's place. 2) Factory sleeve and ends maybe welded and reinforced with steel. Tie rod ends must be factory ends and fit the spindle and drag link without reaming the holes larger. A store bought washer maybe placed over the steam of the tie rod and welded.
- Upper A arms maybe interchanged as long as there able to be bolted on. You may cut/ trim to make fit but no welding on brackets etc. A arm must bolt on factory brackets of frame, no drilling new holes or enlarging existing holes. Example: 80-91 box ford a arms being installed on a 98-02. Cut the mounting bar out and trim the edges of a arms to get height.
-Rear control arms may be changed but must be stock. You may shorten but max 2” overlap.
- 98 up watt links conversion will be allowed only in the following way!! Upper trailing arm brackets must be bolted in. They must be 2 separate brackets, may not be larger than 6”x 12”x 3/8” thick max. 4- 5/8 bolts, nuts and 8 washers per bracket. Brackets may only be bolted to tow package and bolts may not stick thru body. Brackets may not strength frame or body. NO WELDING AT ALL OF UPPER BRACKETS.
-98 up watt links LOWER BRACKET Conversion. Only 1 way will be allowed to mount lower trailing arm bracket. 1 piece of square tube 3”x 3”x 3/8”x 3” long max per side of frame maybe used. Cut the square tube to make a C channel. It must be welded to the inboard of the frame at the point you want your trailing arm mounted. Drill your hole thru the tube and only 1 thickness of the frame. Bolt your arm into place. No other bolts will be allowed to mount this bracket. No factory mounting brackets will be allowed to mount the trailing arms.
DRIVETRAIN:
- ANY drive train & transmission (manual transmissions allowed, no aftermarket bell housings, no trans brace, no mid plates, OEM transmission case only )
-you may run a basic front plate and lower engine cradle with pulley protector, but it must be mounted to the car with oem style mounts.
-no engine chains, unless approved with pictures
Rear axle
- Any factory 5 lug axle but must be 31 spline or less with cast flanges. No aftermarket axles ) (8 lug rears are ok as well)
- Rear end brace will be allowed.
- No axle savers.
-Pinion brake is ok
- All money winners will have to load on trailer, and pull axles before payout, we will check inside of tubes at this time.
- You may run 3/8 chain around rear end back to the frame with only each end of the chain welded back to the frame for ride height control. Any extra chain links or weld on the frame will cause you to run working suspension.
DRIVERS COMPARTMENT :
- 4 point square cage only, (1) down tube in the center of each front door welded to sheet metal only nothing to the frame. max 60 inch cage over all measurement. 6 inch max, Must be mounted horizontally and 6 inches off floor. Gussets only in interior of 4 point cage.
- Gas tank mount may be welded to back bar, but bar and fuel cell/tank must be 4 inches from rear sheet metal. See below for mounting fuel tank/ cell to floor.
- Halo bar allowed is allowed, 2-1/2 bolts with 1/2 washers to attach to roof. The halo bar may only be attached to the back seat bar or sidebars, not to floor.
- Drivers door must be padded.
- Gas tank and batteries must be moved and secured. Tank behind the seat, Battery centered in the passenger front floor.
- Nothing may be mounted in a way that strengthens the car.
- Trans coolers allowed. Must be mounted inside 4 point cage area. Or on cage must be tight to cage if mounted on back bar.
Bumpers:
- You may hardnose front and rear bumpers if desired, but no shortening rear frame. Follow rules below if using a shock.
- You may weld on any DI approved bumper(see below). Bumper brackets (in factory location) maybe weld continuously to frame 4 inches from the back of bumper only. In addition you may put 4 one inch welds on back side of bumper bracket or to weld shock inside frame(example Crown Vics).
You may shorten 80 and newer fords up to an inch in front of the core support mount you may also be hard nosed.
Call with special cars to mount bumper legally. Rear brackets on rear and front brackets on front. - Or you may chain, 2 piece of chain per side BOLTED from the mount to mount to hold on the bumper.
- Bumper height must be 16" to 22" measured to the bottom of the frame at the back and front body mount location.
-Bumper may not exceed 9’’x9’’. - BUMPERS are interchangeable for all cars. -IF you start with a stock/replacement bumper you are allowed to re-enforce inside of bumper
- Bumper must appear stock from the stands with no spike or protruding items.
-If your bumper will not fit in a factory skin, it is too big.
- You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame - Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires/ no sharp ends. - Bumpers may be flipped (upside down).
TIRES & BRAKES: - No tires taller than 30". 4 wheels max per car. No dual tires. - No split rims, studded tires or 100% solid wheels, you may use aftermarket center with various bolt patterns, solid centers are fine. Welds must be approved by judges on rear tires. Stay off the area of the rim the tube touches, except to weld your center into the rim.
- Valve stem protectors allowed, Valve stem protectors may not extend more than 6 inches from valve stem. Not allowed to be a rim protector. -Inner bead locks must not extend past stock tire bead area, not to exceed 2 inches wide. 1 inch outer lip ring allowed on outside bead.
- Doubled or foam filled tires allowed. - All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
- You may not change tires after inspection, ride height will be measured with your competition tires only.
Simple rules, simple build, keep it that way. Again do not get "creative" or read into these rules, let’s get back to the basics. If it is not clearly described above, it is not allowed. If it doesn't say you can you cant.
Metric/Old School Rules
(cars with DPS can run but have to have firewall cut out as wide as dp to allow it to pass through.)
ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL Only 50% of your car can be painted black! NO ALL BLACK CARS!!!!
All cars will get 2- 4”x 4”-1/4” plates to use how you see fit.
Pre ran cars will get 4 - 4” x 4”-1/4” plates
*you may bend them, fold them, etc
* they can attach body to frame
* you may not use them as a driveline kicker or anything that violates any of the rules below.
* if you cut them, the piece you cut you throw away.
Model specific RULES
Metric Cars (see definition below) YOU ARE ALLOWED A 6” x 22”x 1/4” THICK ARCH PLATE. MUST BE CENTERED ON THE HUMP AND ON THE WHEEL SIDE OF THE HUMP. DOES NOT HAVE TO BE CONTOURED TO FRAME CAN RUN STRAIGHT ACROSS. YOU ARE ALLOWED TO TILT YOUR CARS AT THE CRUSH BOX BY CUTTING THE FLAPs OR a V notch at the crossmember. 8” Tall by 3” square or round material MAX SPACER AT CORE SUPPORT
Old Iron sedans
6” x 12” x ¼” arch plate must be centered on the hump, and on the wheel side of the frame, does NOT have to be contoured to the frame/ can be straight across.
Max 4" spacer at core support
General
1. ANY American made Passenger car or station wagon. (Metric cars are MOST 1977 & UP GM, 1979 & NEWER FORD, MERCURY, CHRYSLER AND 1980 AND NEWER LINCOLNS) IF YOU HAVE MODEL THAT IS IN QUESTION CALL, DO NOT ASSUME! No trucks, Imperials, jeeps, hearses, limousines.
2. Fresh Sedagons are NOT allowed.
3. All glass, side windows, rear windows, headlights and taillights, must be removed before reaching inspection. Rolling down windows is not permitted.
4. All interior seating,
5. Cars must have a seatbelt and working brakes. MANDATORY
6. Battery must be securely fastened and covered in passenger compartment. TWO BATTERIES ARE ALLOWED.
7. Front Windshield Bar is MANDATORY and is limited to a 2” wide x ¼” thick strap, chain, 9 wire loop, 2x2 angle. This can be attached to roof to each side of your distributor cut out area.
8. NO REAR WINDOW BAR
Body Mounts
1. 5/8” max diameter body bolts
2. Body spacer is 1” thick by 3” diameter max
3. Trunk/cargo area (center of rear axle to the bumper) may have up to 1” all-thread in 4 locations
3a. your trunk all thread may have 2 welded to the side of the frame and 2 through a factory location.
3b. only 4” of your all thread can be welded to the frame and must be a continuous bead down one side only. On your 2 added spots No bending it in a U-shape around the frame or through the side of the frame.
4. core support may have up to 1” diameter all thread Your locations in the trunk / core support / cargo area can extend through the trunk, roof, deck lid or hood. You may use up to 4” hold down plates.
5. You get 3 (4” plates and 3 nuts to attach each piece of threaded rod) example when going through the trunk you may have a plate/nut on the bottom side of the frame, inside the trunk on top of the frame and a plate/nut on top side of the trunk. You may not have one on the bottom of the trunk to keep it from pushing down. Same with hood and roof areas.
6. The remaining spots that you choose not to extend through the hood, deck lid, roof, trunk area are to use 5/8” diameter bolts, factory size washers, 1” thick spacer between body and frame.
7. NONE of your body mounts may attach to the cage or any part of the cage.
GAS TANKS AND FUEL PUMPS
1. Stock gas tank MUST be removed from original position. All tanks must have a secure cap. A marine tank or fuel cell is strongly recommended. All lines and fitting must be leak proof and meet approval of the track officials. Electric fuel pumps are allowed
2. All lines must be run inside car, not along the frame underneath.
RADIATOR AND CORE SUPPORT
1. Radiator must be in stock position
2. Any automotive or racing type radiator can be used.
3. No homemade radiators allowed
4. No reserve tanks and no added cooling capacity.
5. One electric fan, mounted to the radiator, may be used.
6. DO NOT MOVE CORE SUPORT
7. Factory condenser or 32” wide by 1/4" thick MESH radiator protector
BODY
1. No body seams may be welded. No metal may be added.
2. No doubling of body panels allowed, no added metal allowed.
3. BODY CREASING IS allowed.
4. Fenders may be bolted together. Max of 10- 3/8” BOLTS.
5. Doors may be chained, wired, or welded. on the car body. When welding doors 6 in on 6 in off all the way around
6. No creasing, welding, doubling of transmission tunnel… if you touch it you will cut it out
7. You may switch bodies with same manufacturer and model type of car, if you have questions please shoot me a message.
DRIVER SAFETY
1. Drivers Door can be welded SOLID and may have a door plate on outside
2. Passenger door must be welded 6 inches on 6 off. May have a door plate on the inside of door
SUSPENSION
1. A-Arms are allowed to be welded down by using 2 pieces of 2”x 2” x 1/4” per arm (1 front & 1 Rear)
2. If you weld anywhere else on A-arm, or use bigger strap than allowed….you will cut it all off and run working suspension.
3. Spring spacers are allowed but nothing allowed above top of spring
4. Tie rods must have factory appearing ends, No heims! You may brace the center tube with angle or pipe. Aftermarket is fine but must have a factory type end!
5. Factory spindle swaps are ok, ford to Chevy etc. GM factory lift spindles are ok (No fabricated spindles or aftermarket hubs)
6. You may Replacement ball joints, screw in or aftermarket are ok
7. You may change A-arms from new style to old style A-arms. Must bolt in factory
8. NO All-Thread Shocks in the front.
9. No welding on the wishbone mount of the a-arms to the frame or a-arm.
HOODS
MUST BE OPEN AT INSPECTION!
1. Hoods must have two (2) holes, at least four (4) inches in diameter on each side of the carburetor. Not directly on top of the carburetor. If the hood is removed, either the fan or fan belt must be removed.
2. Hoods may be secured by 2 pieces of 1” all thread outboard the radiator. Cannot be sleeved. * Meaning spacer/square tube stops at bottom side of core support*
3. You are allowed 10 pieces of double stranded #9 wire across the front of car from bumper to hood/core support.
4. You may have up to 10 (3/8”) bolts to hold the inner and outer hood skins together.
5. Hoods can be held shut with “one” of the following options,
A (8) LOCATIONS 2” long pieces of 2” x 2” angle with a single 3/8” bolt thru them
B (8) pieces of # 9 wire attaching hood to fender.
C. (8) Locations 3/4" diameter max bolts going through hood into inner fender with 2”x2” max washer
TRUNKS
1. You are allowed 10 pieces of double stranded #9 wire from bumper to bottom of trunk lip.
2. You can weld trunks 6 on 6 off like the doors with max 4” wide by ¼ thick
3. You may crease the trunk and quarter panels, and rear pillar.
4. You can have up to 4- 1” pieces of threaded rod through your trunk, but this counts towards your body mount rule.
5. 2- 6” inspection holes in the trunk. You may use 4- 3/8” bolts to bolt the layers back together at the edges of the hole.
SAFETY CAGES
1. All cars must have a safety cage and roll over bar. (can be in the doors)
2. A 4-point cage is required
3. Cage can be made out of 4” pipe, 4” square tubing, or 6”x2” box tube MAX.
* Your cage must have a dash bar (4” off firewall minimum)
* Bar behind driver’s seat
* 2 side bars connecting your dash bar to your seat bar. (one per side) Cannot extend past wheel well tubs or firewall.
* These are the minimum requirements; your cage is for your safety… not to strengthen the car. NO part of your cage can be a kicker to the frame or any driveline component. 4” gap required.
4. Roll over bar cannot be more than 6” behind driver’s seat. Roll over bar can NOT attach to frame. *Weld or Bolt it to sheet metal only. A 6” x 6” plate may be used in aiding it to be attached to floor sheet metal. Roll over bar can be bolted to roof
5. The cage can be welded to sheet metal only. You can have up to four (4) down posts, two (2) per side.
6. All down tubes must be at or behind the dash bar, straight up and down. Welded to sheet metal only.
7. Gas tank protector 24” WIDE MAX AND MAY BOLT TO THE PACKAGE TRAY WITH 2 (5/8”) BOLTS
8. You may weld or bolt your roll over bar to the roof in 3 places.
9. Your cage can NOT extend through the floor pan in any way.
FRAMES
1. No welding, plating, or reinforcing of the frame.
2. All factory frame holes must be left open.
3. Any reinforcing of frame found will result in disqualification. NO Fixing Allowed…You Will Be LOADED!
4. Sub frame cars cannot be tied together. If you want to run a full frame car, buy a full frame car, don’t build one.
5. CORE SUPPORT AND CORE SUPPORT MOUNTING TAB MUST REMAIN IN FACTORY LOCATION.
6. aftermarket steering columns are ok
7. Rear frame rails may not be shortened.
8. NO Frame shaping
BUMPERS
1.Bumpers maybe loaded. Everything inside factory envelope of the bumper.
2. Bumpers may be hardnosed, you may use a piece of 2” square or round stock 6” long as a bumper shock or a factory piece of bumper bracket 6” long. (either way anything beyond the 6” mark gets cut off) * this must attach to the bumper and extend back a maximum of 6”
3. You may do the following to aid in keeping your bumpers attached *Weld 2 straps per frame horn from the bumper to the frame of the car no further than 6” back on to the frame. (maximum strap size 6” long, 3” wide and ¼” thick.) Flat on the sides of the frame, this is to aid in keeping the bumpers on DO NOT ABUSE THIS.
4. Bumpers can be no higher than 26” from the ground to the top of the bumper or lower than 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper.
5. Replica bumpers are legal example 74 ski bumper, 76 scheltema, Replica chrysler pointy, etc
6. All homemade bumpers require picture approval and a tape measure in the picture.
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION
1. Any engine or transmission may be used in any car, but must be mounted within 6” of the original motor. Engine cannot protrude into the passenger compartment before the race.
2. FULL ENGINE CRADLE is allowed minus Distributor Protector
3. Mid plate can be NO taller than 1” above the bell bolts on the transmission. Halo or carb protector can NOT be further back than the centerline of the Carb.
4. Aftermarket Motor Mounts are legal, NO Horizontal Bar Mounts or welding cradle to frame directly
5. Transmission oil coolers and engine oil coolers are permitted.
6. Pulley protectors are allowed, but sway bar must be removed or not able to intentionally touch before or after race!! 2” gap before the event minimum.
7. Factory aluminum engine cradles in 2003 and newer cars may NOT be changed. You may run a steel adapter pedestal to mount your engine in the car. This may bolt to the 4 main cradle bolt locations and to the 2 aluminum stations on the factory cradle. It may run from passenger rail to driver rail with a max of 8” wide and ½” material thickness.
8. HOMEMADE Gas Pedals and Shifters Are allowed, but may not reinforce the car in anyway.
9. OEM cross member or 2 x 2 square/ round tube. *1 single crossmember for all model cars
10. May weld a piece of 3” x 3” x 6” angle to frame to aid in attaching cross member
11. Transmission modifications -Steel bells and steel tails are ok
12. Aftermarket transmission brace is ok, if making homemade it must be same size and design as approved aftermarket ones. (mounting point to crossmember is limited to the width of the nerat tail housing mounts or 6” wide) Plated transmission pan is ok, and can attach to pan and bell.
REAR END / Rear Suspension (leaf spring rules apply only to factory equipped cars / coil suspension rules apply to only those factory equipped)
1. Any automotive or aftermarket rear end
2. Slider drive shaft is permitted.
3. You may have five (5) spring clamps per spring. Maximum 1" wide 1/4 thick
4. ZTR style brackets are legal, but must use factory trailing arms to mount rear end. If bolted through package tray, sheet metal must be cut around washer. (so it isn’t adding a body mount)
5. If you shorten the trailing arms. Maximum overlap when shortening 2” No doubling or reinforced trailing arms.
6. You may chain or wire your axle to the frame hump. (2 CHAIN LINKS WELDED TO FRAME MAX) *NO OPENING CHAIN LINKS TO GAIN LENGTH*
7. Rear leaf springs must remain factory thickness and width per leaf * you may have up to 8 springs with 2” stagger, no doubling main leafs. * 5 clamps total per pack (can be homemade 1” wide ¼” strapping) * ½ diameter max u bolts, 4 total.
8. Coil springs maybe doubled or swap fronts to rear or vice versa.
9. ZTR top brackets max size 6”x12”. ZTR lowers no larger than 4” square tube x 6” long
10. You may utilize all thread rear shocks to adjust your ride height. They can only attach with a single bolt to the rear end like a factory shock and go through the package tray or package tray area with a single nut and store-bought washer on top. NO nut on bottom (must be able to move in the downward direction if enough force is applied/ limits height only)
TIRES
1. Any Tires black and round.
2. Rims can have full centers, small 1" wide bead stiffener, and small 2" beadlock. No full size external beadlock or tire guards allowed.
If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t assume that you can. ASK first or don’t do it! Everybody needs to read and re-read these rules. If you are found to be over built for these rules, you will be given 2 options. A. CUT OR REMOVE ILLEGAL PARTS. B. LOAD ON TRAILER AND GO HOME. Either way you will NOT RECEIVE A REFUND
RUST REPAIR
Drivers compartment floor pans from firewall to front side of the package trey can be repaired with the following method. (cut rusted area out, replace with the same thickness material, max overlap is 1” and stitch weld it back in 1” inch skip 1” ) If it is thicker than factory you will cut 100% out. *Wagons this will be no further than the centerline of the axle.
If you repair other areas without approval you will cut it out, not window it out.
Bone Stock Compact Rules
109” wheelbase or less. FWD and RWD are allowed, but NO FRAMERS
NO CARB SWAPS
Bumpers must remain 100% stock OEM that came with car and unaltered, NO
EXCEPTIONS. No welding or reinforcing. (NO STUFFING UNIBODIES, WE
WILL BE SCOPING THEM). You can have 2 strands of #9 wire per side from
bumper to core support to keep bumper from falling off.
Driver door can be welded solid. Passenger door can ONLY be welded if you
will have a passenger riding with you. This is not to strengthen the car in any
way; it is for driver safety ONLY.
Hood and trunk must be held shut with chain or #9 wire only. Both will be
enforced.
You can have a maximum of 4-point cage that does not extend more than 12”
behind seat. You can have fuel tank protector but it can only be wide enough to
protect fuel cell. (NOT DOOR TO DOOR). You can also have a halo bar.
All cars MUST have some sort of window bar or strap to keep the hood from
coming into the car.
Fuel tank must be removed and a metal boat tank or homemade metal tank
mounted in rear seat area. Battery (maximum of 2) needs to be mounted in
passenger floorboard.
Suspension needs to remain stock other than you can weld strut shaft to make
car sit higher.
Any tire with small wheel centers ONLY.
If you plan to have a passenger, the passenger side door needs to have some
kind of padding along the inside of the cage.
PRE-RAN CARS WILL BE ALLOWED 2- 4X4 PATCH PLATES PER RAIL.
If you have a question regarding the rules please contact Josh Baker
618-697- 0743.
Gut and Go Big Car Class(100%stock class)
Most any passenger vehicle car manufactured 1980 or newer allowed.
No limos, hearses, vans, trucks, or SUVs. RWD or FWD cars allowed. No AWD or 4WD cars allowed.
Remove ALL glass, molding, bumper covers, interior, etc. Please completely strip car and un-needed items.
Battery and gas tank must be relocated inside the car. Both must be safely secured with no movement of any kind. Stock tank is allowed, but must be safely relocated and covered.
CARS MUST REMAIN STOCK! No engine swap, trans swap, or differential swap allowed (Ford-Ford, Chevy-Chevy, Mopar-Mopar, etc.). Fuel system must remain stock from factory. No carb swap (Carb-Carb, Fuel Injection-Fuel Injection, etc.).
Headers are allowed!
Factory Rearend ONLY Any stock OEM style bumper manufactured 1980 or newer allowed. No extreme point, no seam welding, no stuffing, etc. STOCK. No homemade bumpers allowed. No hardnose allowed. Bumpers must be mounted on factory bumper mounts. Bumper may be welded to factory mount ONLY. . No welding the mount to the frame.
No slider drive shafts allowed.
4-point cage ONLY. You are allowed 2 down tubes per side, but they cannot connect to the frame. Your roll bar cannot go below the back seat bar; if it does it will be counted as one of the down tubes.
Stock steering column ONLY. No after market.
Stock pedals and shifters ONLY. No after market.
No frame tilting, notching, or dimpling allowed. STOCK. No welding of any type on frame. No plates. No body creasing, welding, or bolting of any type.
Trunk deck must remain in stock location. Doors, hood, and trunk must be wired or chained shut. Hoods may be fastened down in a max of 5 places with #9 wire or chain. Wire/chain cannot run in front of the radiator. Trunk may be wired or chained in a max of 5 places.
No homemade wheels allowed . Any style rubber tire allowed.
Stock suspension ONLY. No spacers, welding, blocks, etc. STOCK. This is a strictly STOCK and FUN class! Simple rules, simple build, so keep it that way. Do not get "creative" or read into these rules, let’s get back to the basics. If it is not clearly described above, it is not allowed. If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T!! All officials’ decisions are final.
Pre Ran Cars will be allowed 2 – 4” x 4” – ¼” plates per rail to be used as needed.
MINI VAN RULES
Chain and bang
1. Vans must be stripped completely.
2. Fuel cells and batteries must be moved and secured inside the vehicle
3.4 point cage and halo bar are mandatory.
4. Any rubber tires.
5. Hoods,doors, and hatches may only be secured with chain or 9 wire or duct tape. The front 2 doors may be welded solid if u wish for driver and passenger protection!!! No bolts or threaded rod to secure the hood,doors or hatches!
Any factory non loaded bumper off anything can be used as long as its not
Pointy. Can also use a piece of square tubing as a front bumper.
Payouts per class
Stock mini Stock Big Metric/old School Vans Gut and Go
1st $1000 $2000 $2000 $1000 $1000
2nd $500 $1000 $1000 $500 $500
3rd $300 $500 $500 $300 $300
MADDOG TROPHIES IN ALL CLASSES.