Post by Vito324 on Jun 25, 2021 6:45:43 GMT -5
These are our 2021 rules. These will be the 3 main classes ran at our shows. Contact information for questions is at the bottom of the rules
Big Boy Promotions Demolition Derby Rules
WE RESERVE THE RIGHT TO REFUSE ANY ENTRY OF DRIVERS, PIT CREW MEMBERS, OR SALES OF PIT PASSES TO INDIVIDUALS WHO WE FEEL WILL BE DISORDERLY, HAS HAD A BAD PAST RECORD OR IN THE BEST INTEREST OF SAFETY THAT THE INDIVIDUAL SHOULD NOT BE IN THE ARENA OR PIT AREA.
*DRIVER'S ENTRY*
E-1. Each driver is required to fill out an entry blank. Only one entry per driver, per class. Entries are not transferable.
E-2. Derby officials may accept or reject any entry, driver or pit crew member.
E-3. Those issued pit passes may be refused entry by derby officials should officials deem it necessary for safety or the smooth operation of the derby.
E-4. Pit passes will not be issued to those 14 years of age or younger at some shows. Check minor regulations for each specific location. Anyone under 18 years of age must be accompanied by an adult and have an adult/guardian waiver signed.
E-5. Everyone in the pits must sign a waiver.
E-6. Any driver 18 or younger must have a notarized minor's release signed by the parent or guardian. The minimum age for drivers is 16 unless prohibited by the individual derby host (fair board etc.) regulations. Entrant will be responsible for securing approval from said host.
E-7. Intoxicating beverages, illegal substances or the use of such are prohibited prior to or during the event. Any violator will be disqualified. This includes car, driver and crew.
E-8. The last moving vehicle making contact with another live vehicle in all events will be declared the winner.
E-9. The Decision of the derby officials will be final!
E-10. Any driver and/or crew member(s) disobeying the rules will cause their car to be disqualified.
E-11. The driver and the car qualify for the feature. No driver or car changes. Only cars and drivers entered in previous heats qualify for consolation heat or feature.
E-12. You must stay in your car. Do not leave your car unless you are told to do so by a derby official or the red flag (or checkered flag) has been displayed and all cars have stopped. Leaving your car or "STANDING UP" is grounds for disqualification. If an emergency arises during an event and cars must be moved for safety, running cars will be returned to original position for the restart.
E-13. If a driver does not hit another live car within 1 minute they will be disqualified.
E-14. If we feel the need to drill any frames at any time, we will do so. The decision of the judges is final.
*INSPECTION*
I-14. Anyone found blatantly cheating (hidden welds, pitched frames where not allowed, etc.) will be given the option to correct the issue and charged a $100 cash re-inspection fee payable at time of inspection. Derby officials reserve the right to inspect any car at any time.
I-15. Inspection will close 30 minutes before the starting time. LATE ARRIVALS ARE SUBJECT TO AN INSPECTION FEE OR REFUSAL.
I-16. You must be in the inspection line 1 hour before inspection close time.
WINDSHIELD CLASS
W1. Any 80 or newer front wheel drive. 4 or 6 cylinders
W2. Windshield/Glass
Windshield may be left in place.
If windshield is removed, there must be a vertical bar or wire from roof to fire wall. #9 wire double strand.
All other glass must be removed. If you break any of the windows while removing them, all glass must be swept out of doors/off floor/out of window seals, etc.
No covering with tape is allowed.
W3. Body
Remove outside molding, mirrors, headlights, taillights, hood and trunk latches.
Exhaust must be removed from in front or behind converter.
No cutting, bending, hammering, or creasing body is allowed.
Trunk lid must be on car in factory location.
You may remove the rear bumper.
W4. Bumpers
Plastic cover must be removed.
Must use stock bumper unless it is plastic. Plastic can be replaced with a 98’-02’ ford style bumper. No chrome style.
Front bumper must be welded on or wired to core support. Bumper may be welded all the way around but no adding of steel or cutting of bumper/frame.
Wired bumpers can have 4 double strands of #9 wire to core support either around or through the bumpers.
W5. Tie Rods
Broken tie rods may be welded but no adding of steel
W6. Battery
May be moved to inside of car – Prefer it to be in a box.
Must be secured to floor.
No moving computer or any electrical component.
If battery is left in factory position, must be secured with spray foam
W7. Gas Tank
May stay in factory location and secure
May use an after market stainless steel or aluminum tank with a fuel pump either in tank or in line. MUST BE APPROVED BEFORE THE SHOW.
W8. Doors
May be wired or chained in up to 2 spots on vertical seams.
i. Any 2 spots at the top of the doors
Must be a bar in the driver’s side door.
W9. Trunk
a. May be wired in up to 6 spots with #9 wire double strand.
i. 2 of those spots must be around or through the rear bumper.
ii. If wired before the inspection, a 12” hole must be cut in trunk.
W10. Hood
May be wired in up to 4 spots with 9# wire double strand.
Must have a 12” hole cut in hood.
Must be open for inspection
W11. Tires & Rims
Must be factory made.
May run donut spare on the back.
Tires must be radial tires
No tubes, no doubles, and no snow tires.
W12. Interior
Air bags must be removed or deactivated.
No other interior to be removed other than door panels to remove windows.
Back seat may be removed.
FULL SIZE STREET STOCK CLASS
F1. If someone thinks you have a gear in your car, it is a non-refundable $100 protest fee that goes to the promoter. If the car is caught with an aftermarket gear, prize money will be lost.
F2. 1980’s and newer. No hearses or limousine’s permitted.
F3. Cars must be 100% stock. No cross breeding. Entire drive line must be same make as car (Chevy to Chevy, Ford to Ford, etc.) must appear to be factory engine to car with stock exhaust. Exhaust may be cut off.
F4. Engine must be mounted with stock mounts in stock position. No welding of mounts, bolted only. No homemade cross members. Cross members must be stock and bolted in, not welded.
F5. You may leave the gas tank in the stock location, if in front of the rear axle. You may relocate a fuel tank to rear floor of car. If this is done, you must use a fuel cell. If boat tank is used, it must be approved by officials before the show. No stock fuel tanks permitted inside of the car. If you move the fuel cell to inside of the car, it must be securely fastened to the floor with bolts. Rachet straps are not approved to mount fuel cells.
F6. Windshield may be left in car or you can remove it. If the windshield is removed, you must have 1 strand of #9 wire from roof to firewall. The following must be removed prior to entering the fairgrounds: windows, headlights, taillights, all chrome, and mirrors. You must remove all glass, plastic and fiberglass from the outside of the car, including plastic bumper covers. Interior must be swept clean of debris and glass.
F7. Under the hood you may take plastic fender wells out. The battery may be left in stock location. You may put a rubber mat over it or spray foam around it – not excessively. You may move the battery to the floor of the car and lengthen cable to reach the battery on the floor, not the wiring harness. This will be strictly enforced.
F8. If the car has a wiring harness in front of the core support, you may move it behind the core support. You cannot remove body mount bolt to do this.
F9. All body bolts must be factory stock, no altering permitted.
F10. Doors must be chained or wired. No more than 4 places per door. You may use 5/16” chain or 2 strands #9 wire per hole.
F11. Trunks must be chained or wired. No more than 6 places, 2 of these must go around bumper. You may use 5/16” chain or 2 strands #9 wire per hole. TRUNKS MUST BE OPEN DURING INSPECTION. Deck lid and/or tailgate must be in factory position on car or be completely removed from car. You cannot remove speaker deck from car. No welding or adding metal. No tucking, wedging, pre-bending, smashing, or anything else you can think of. No welding washers to the body for wire. You may fold trunk in half at a 90* angle.
F12. Hoods may be wired or chained in 6 spots. You may use 5/16” chain or 2 strands #9 wire per hole. It must be sheet metal to sheet metal only. No welding washers for holes. Must be 12” hole in hood in case of fire. REMOVE HOOD LATCH. Hood must be open for inspection.
F13. Any tire and rim permitted, doubles permitted, no foam filled tires or bead locks permitted. You may run after market center and lip rings/bend rings no bigger than 2”.
F14. NO CREASING OF THE BODY IS PERMITTED.
F15. You can have a safety bar behind the driver’s seat if you choose. Theses may be no bigger than 6”x6” and mounting plate can be no bigger than 8”x8”. Can be mounted no further back than 6” behind driver’s seat. You may also reinforce the driver’s door as you see fit for driver’s safety. This may be done from door seam to door seam only, there must be at least a bar in the drivers door.
F16.Stock type springs and shocks. No solid suspension. Screw in type spring risers are ok, no wire, chains or any weld on rear ends or rear spring pockets. Cars must bounce and cars must be stock.
F17. Front bumper can be 1980 or newer in factory location and manner. You may collapse the shocks and weld all the way around. You may weld the plate to the bumper. DEC bumpers and ADEPT bumpers are permitted. Ends must remain open. No metal added to bumper permitted. You may also use up to 6x4x1/4 tubing and must leave ends open. You may use a 6”x6”x1/4” flat metal on back of bumper to create flat mounting surface.
F18. You may weld spider gear to make posi. You must use factory rear end housing for car you are running. No changing of gears or axles.
LIMITED WELD CLASS
LW1. Any year, front engine, 107 ½” or greater wheelbase, hard top automobile or station wagon is allowed. No 64-66 Imperials. No trucks, jeeps, hearses, limos, SUV’s, or carry-alls.
LW2. All glass including windshield, doors, headlights, taillights, mirrors, etc. must be removed, not broken and laying in doors. The car must be swept clean of all dirt and loose pieces. All chrome and decorative ornaments must be removed from the outside of the car. Protruding fenders or sheet metal must be cut off or bent over. All this work must be done before entering the pit area.
LW3. Pre-ran (vehicles run at a previous show or a previous day) full frame (no uni-body) cars with damaged frames may be repaired with up to 2 patches per side (4 total) with a maximum of 4x4x1/4” plate. Previous damage must be visible. Fresh cars may have one (per rail) 4x4x1/4” fix-it-plate anywhere on the frame, no excessive welding. You may not weld frame patches between heats and the feature.
LW4. Bumpers
Cutting bumpers (and fenders) for wheel clearance and/or restriction of steering is permissible. Front bumpers may be factory or aftermarket replica, including Chrysler pointies. Bumper dimensions measure 6”x4” straight. You can add a point 6” with it stretching out 12” in each direction from center. Factory bumpers may be loaded, seam welded, and reinforced behind the factory shell. You may not alter any factory bumper from its original shape or dimensions other than it may be shortened. We realize some factory bumpers may exceed the 6” rule but being factory, they will not have an advantage over a homemade bumper. Homemade rear bumpers, same specifications other than must be flat.
You may add a 6x6” mounting plate to the frame to weld your bumper to.
Bumper height is 14” min and 21” max on fresh cars.
LW5. Front Frame/Crush box forward
You may cut the front down to where ½ of the core support mount is left in the factory location. You may reweld what is left of the core support mount to the frame. You may put a 4x4” plate on top of the core support mount that can be welded to the frame and the core support mount.
Bumper Shock
Option 1: You may have a 10in round stock, same size as the factory bumper shock, welded inside the frame. It must be attached to the back of the bumper.
Option 2: You may have a 4in tall by 3/8” thick by 10in long plate welded on any one side of the frame. It must be attached to the back of the bumper. If placed on the outside of the frame with the core support mount, notch out the core support mount and slide it under.
Seam Welds
Only the first 14 inches of the frame can be seam welded from the front bumper back.
Suspension
Suspension may be solid, car need not bounce front or rear. Suspension jack screws (twisty jacks) or other material may be used in coil springs or 2 pieces (per a-arm) of up to 2”x2”x1/4” flat steel may be welded to the upper a-arm and frame. No race type spring jacks, no welding washers, plates or any material over top of spring pockets.
Factory spring for car. No ball joint protectors are allowed. You may use aftermarket ball joints. Upper must be bolted in like factory but may use an aftermarket sleeve. Lower may be welded in with an aftermarket sleeve. On 03+ You may weld in the upper ball joint to the a-arm with a sleeve OR weld in the factory ball joint.
A- Arms/Spindles
You may swap a-arms and spindles Ford to GM, GM to Ford. GM lift spindles are OK. 03+ must run the factory upper and lower a-arm.
A-arms may not be reinforced.
You may run up to 1” all thread for rear shocks and front shocks. On the rear, no bigger than a 3” washer on top of the package tray. For the front, no bigger than a 3x3 washer on top of the frame, and no bigger than a 4x4 washer on the bottom of the lower a-arm. No welding washers. 03+ must run the factory front shock but may add a pipe or square tubing that just fits over top of the shock and can be extended down and bolted back into factory location to get the ride height.
Sway bars may not be altered and may be bolted down to the lower a-arms. You must have the factory clamp and rubber bolted to the frame.
Leaf spring cars may replace broken leafs with 5/16” thick leafs max. Up to 7 springs allowed with a 1” stagger down. Leaf springs must remain in their original position. Leaf cars are allowed 4 factory clamps and 4 homemade clamps per stack. Homemade clamps must not exceed 2”x4”x1/4” thick. Bolt diameter for homemade clamps not to exceed 7/16”. No welding clamps and no welding leaf springs together. You may not run hump plates if you run a leaf sprung car. No leaf spring conversions.
03+ may run an aftermarket over the top cradle but it must bolt to the factory aluminum cradle no welding cradle to the frame. Cradle cannot strengthen the car in any way. Aftermarket cradle must be approved by officials first. No welding, chain, or bolts to the frame. Any frame rust repair will be same gauge material, no more than 1” overlap (from rusted area to non-rusted area). No overlapping patches. Will be at the official’s discretion.
You may alter, reinforce, or build steering components including tie rods. On ’03 and newer you must run the factory rack and pinion.
Tilting - front frame may be tilted in one location, either by bending at the cross-member area or at the box by cutting the flaps (cut no more than 3 sides), pulling down, and re-welding. 03+ may not tilt, but where the frame rail meets the crush box the unwelded seam may be welded – no more than ¼” wide weld. Rear frame may not be tilted. No adding steel or excessive welding. No squaring of frames anywhere.
2003 and newer frames may not be clipped with 2002 and older frames.
LW6. Mid-Section
Cross-member factory, or not bigger than 2x4x1/4”. You may weld up to 6” of angle or flat steel
to frame to mount transmission cross member but it must be at least 6” from front corner brace (gusset) or cars with no corner brace mount must be at least 9” from the box. You may add gussets (frame to box) no bigger than 1x1 square tube and no longer than 6in. It may be welded to the frame. No capping the top or bottom.
No other material or welds may be added unless stated.
LW7. Rear-Section of Frame
Rear Humps – You may run a hump plate. No bigger than 6” tall by 22” long by ¼” thick. May be contoured or a flat plate. Must be centered in the hump. If you run a flat plate, it can be no more than half way down the hump and must be 3” away from year end housing.
98+ newer rear end mounting
When installing an old-style rear end under ’98 and up models, weld just enough for the 2 lower rear-end brackets. The lower rear trailing arms must be mounted in factory location not to the frame and must be free to travel (not welded solid). The lower trailing arm mount can be no bigger than 6x3 – 4inches long and may be welded to the inside of frame to bolt the trailing arms to. You may run aftermarket watts conversion kit upper style mounts. The mounts may not be connected. You may weld in rear end cross member from earlier models. Brackets may not be welded in any way that strengthens the car. Rear end housing braces may be added but may not be used to support frame in any way. Rear ends may be braced. May run up to 10 lug axles.
Rear bumper mounting
The rear bumper shock can be no bigger than a 2x2 square tube or 2 in round pipe and no longer than 6in. It must be inside the frame. You may cap around the rear bumper with no thicker than 1/4” flat steel. No more than 2” can be welded to the frame.
LW8. Cage
A four-point cage may be installed consisting of one dash bar, one bar behind the seat, one door bar per side (may be inside door but may not extend forward of the firewall), and an optional center bar between the seat bar to the dash bar. Center bar may not extend rear of the seat bar or forward of the dash bar. Must be in around center of cage. Dash bar must be straight with no kickers and must have 4” clearance from bar to distributor protector and tranny tunnel. Door bars may be mounted to body at dash area or to dash bar and to the door post. One mounting plate per side. Approximately 6”x12” may be welded and/or bolted to the door post and/or door. The door bars may extend a maximum of 18” behind the side door post and be no more than 15” above lower inside door seam. An optional seat bar without a four-point cage may be installed conforming to above “seat bar” specifications. Cage must be at least 4” above floor. Roll bar may be added but must stand straight up. May be attached to cage and roof only (bolted to roof, not welded). May have 2 plates, not bigger than 3x3x1/4” each with 1 bolt per plate for the roof OR a 3inch 2x2 tubing with a bolt. You may have 2 down legs from cage welded to body only must be welded to the floor.
Gas tank protectors may not be more than 26” wide and be 3” minimum off floor. Tank protectors may be tight to the package tray and can be bolted with 2” bolts or two 1” long welds down the sides. Tanks must fit within the 26” tank protector area and not be excessive in size. Steel lines may run inside the car. Rubber lines inside the car must be run inside another hose. Tanks must be secured to floor or cage (not to side walls or doors) with bolts. No nylon strap
fasteners or welding tanks to floors. Tanks must be covered, and cover must be suitably attached at all times. All fuel lines and tanks will be at the discretion of the inspectors. Vehicles requiring electric fuel pumps must have an operational fuel pump kill switch. All original tanks must be removed.
Gas tank protectors must be 4” away from the rear window bar.
The battery and wiring must be rear of the firewall. You may run up to two starting batteries, but they must be safely secured and suitably covered at all times.
LW9. Body
Body bolts may be changed with up to 5/8” bolts and may not extend to the bottom of frame. Washers 3” maximum (round or square) may not be welded to frame or any sheet metal. A minimum of 1” body spacers (material of your choice) must be in place.
Core Support
Core support spacers 2x2 with a 3x3 washer on top and bottom, min ½”, no maximum height limit. May not be welded to frame at core support mount and not welded to core support. 2x2 may not go through core support. Core support bolts may be up to 1” and may extend from top of frame (not bottom) through core support and hood. May not be welded to frame, core support or hood. Core support bolts that extend up through hood will count as 2 of the hood fastener bolts. A maximum of 4 double strands of up to #9 wire may run from core support (not hood) to front bumper. You may cut lower sides of core support beside radiator, raise bottom then overlap and reweld to raise radiator. At least 50% of core support (when measured from top to bottom in the center) must remain in place. No other welds or added bolts to core support or other sheet metal.
No homemade radiators. Radiator must remain in original location and must be filled with water only. No radiator tank protectors, tanks must be exposed. Radiator may be mounted at your discretion. Nothing excessive. No adding anything in the center across the top of the core support. You may use a/c condenser, screen or expanded metal in front of radiator, but not be welded or excessive. Overflow hose must point down.
Hood
Hood must be open for inspection. Hoods may be held down with up to six double strands of #9 or smaller wire, sheet metal to sheet metal only, no welding washers or other material to hood or fenders. Core support bolts that pass through the hood will count as 2 of the 6 hood fasteners. Hoods must cover fan blades and transmission coolers. Hood safety latch must be removed. Hood hinge bolts may be up to 3/8”. You may add up to 8 3/8” bolts in hood sheet metal (plus hinge bolts). There must be a minimum 12” hole in hood above carburetor.
Doors
All doors must be wired, banded, chained, or may be welded a maximum of three 3x4x1/4” door plates per door seam. You may add 2 double strands of #9 wire to the top of each door seam, but no wire is allowed in the window opening. Your gas doors may be welded. Any plates or welds longer than 3x4x1/4” will be cut. Pre-ran sheet metal damage may be patched on doors only with up to the same gauge material and no more than 1” overlap. Drivers door may be welded solid with up to 3” strap and must
also be reinforced. Driver outer door skin can be up to ¼” thick, can overlap 3” on each side or there must be a plate welded inside from door bar down to floor board no thicker than ¼”. The inside of the passenger side door may also be plated from door bar down to the floor board, to help protect the battery.
Trunk
If you run a trunk lid it must be a factory, to the car, trunk lid, no plate steel and must be attached to factory hinges at factory location. Front half of trunk lid sides must stay above drip edge and drip edge must remain in original location. Back half may be folded down but not folded in half/doubled over. You may push center of trunk lid down but must remain above drip edge at sides. Trunk lid (or tailgate) may be wired with double strands of #9 wire in up to 7 spots or welded in up to 7 spots with a maximum of 4x3x1/4” flat steel. Sheet metal to sheet metal only. There must be a 12” hole or otherwise clear view inside trunk area. You may add a 2x2” vertical bar in rear window from top of window opening to front edge of trunk lid, not the floor. Cannot exceed 6” in length on roof or trunk and cannot attach to rollover bar and must be 4 inches away from gas tank protector. No bigger than 2x2 tubing. Window bar will count as one of the 7 trunk fasteners and may weld to one of the plates. If you choose to remove the package tray you will not be allowed to run a deck lid, window bar, or any wire. If you choose to remove the tailgate on station wagons you will not be allowed to run a window bar or any wire. Quarters may be creased but cannot be pulled in excessively. You may not fold rear quarter panels over or smash them down, they must stand up in stock position. No removing roof, tucking or wedging.
Front window bar
A minimum of one vertical safety wire or bar, 2x2x1/4” or 2” flat steel 6” on roof and firewall not connected to roll bar or DP. 3” away from the DP, must be in windshield area. Sheet metal to sheet metal only.
Fenders
A small amount of weld may replace broken lower fender bolts (below rocker panel just in front of doors). You may add 2 strands per side from fender to core support, sheet metal to sheet metal only. You may beat the fender well lips up. No adding bolts in the fender wells – front or rear.
LW10. Engine/Trans Protection
Transmission/transmission and oil coolers – may have a transmission brace but it must be the exoskeleton tubular type or a slide over exoskeleton. If you run the tubular style, you may add up to a ¼” plate on top of the brace between the tubes. No aftermarket steel bells. Can run aftermarket steel tail shaft. Transmission coolers may be under the hood or inside the drivers compartment but must have high pressure line and be suitably covered or shielded.
Distributor protectors no wider than valve covers. You may have a mid-plate no wider than the valve covers. You may run a halo around the carburetor. It must bolt to intake or water pump
only. Lower engine cradles, and front plate, and pully protectors are allowed but nothing further forward than the back of the water pump other than lower pully protectors. You may run aftermarket motor mounts. Nothing can extend from the front plate further back than the motor mounts. You may run an exoskeleton type trans brace. No steel bell but can run a steel tail shaft. You may also run a skid plate. It can be no wider then 2 inches past each side of the oil pan and transmission pan. Skid plate may be welded to oil pan and transmission pan and bolted in 4 spots to the transmission brace. Skid plate may touch the cross member but can not be bolted or welded to crossmember. Skid plate can not stick more then 2 inches in front of the oil pan and may not be connected to the saddle in anyway.
LW11. General
Fuel to be gasoline only. Only tanks permitted are STEEL boat tanks or metal fuel cells. NO plastic tanks. Tank must be mounted in the area of the back seat and suitably covered
Cars must have brakes before the beginning of the heat.
Any vehicle visibly leaking fuel will be disqualified.
Tires – Any tire any size is permitted. May be doubled, foam filled, or solid. No studs, screws or wheel weights. Rims may be reinforced. Valve stem protectors are allowed. Beadlocks permitted.
Stacks are permitted but must point up or down, not forwards or sideways.
Air cleaner is mandatory.
No undercoating or painting inside car, under car, on frame, or suspension parts. No material of any kind such as paint, undercoat, dirt, torch smoke, etc. inside frame.
All entries must have roof sign (18”x24” suggested size) and may not be attached to rear window bar or used to strengthen car. Sign may be attached to roll bar or roof but not both.
NO OTHER FRAME WELDING UNLESS STATED.
If the rules do not say you can do something, you can’t.
QUESTIONS ON WINDSHIELD/FULL SIZE STREET STOCK CLASS CALL OR TEXT BRIAN AVERESCH @ (419) 605-6252 OR CHRIS AVERESCH @ (419) 605-5128 OR CONTACT EITHER VIA FACEBOOK.
QUESTIONS ON LIMITED WELD CLASS CALL OR TEXT JON AVERESCH @ (419) 605-8231 OR CONTACT VIA FACEBOOK.
Big Boy Promotions Demolition Derby Rules
WE RESERVE THE RIGHT TO REFUSE ANY ENTRY OF DRIVERS, PIT CREW MEMBERS, OR SALES OF PIT PASSES TO INDIVIDUALS WHO WE FEEL WILL BE DISORDERLY, HAS HAD A BAD PAST RECORD OR IN THE BEST INTEREST OF SAFETY THAT THE INDIVIDUAL SHOULD NOT BE IN THE ARENA OR PIT AREA.
*DRIVER'S ENTRY*
E-1. Each driver is required to fill out an entry blank. Only one entry per driver, per class. Entries are not transferable.
E-2. Derby officials may accept or reject any entry, driver or pit crew member.
E-3. Those issued pit passes may be refused entry by derby officials should officials deem it necessary for safety or the smooth operation of the derby.
E-4. Pit passes will not be issued to those 14 years of age or younger at some shows. Check minor regulations for each specific location. Anyone under 18 years of age must be accompanied by an adult and have an adult/guardian waiver signed.
E-5. Everyone in the pits must sign a waiver.
E-6. Any driver 18 or younger must have a notarized minor's release signed by the parent or guardian. The minimum age for drivers is 16 unless prohibited by the individual derby host (fair board etc.) regulations. Entrant will be responsible for securing approval from said host.
E-7. Intoxicating beverages, illegal substances or the use of such are prohibited prior to or during the event. Any violator will be disqualified. This includes car, driver and crew.
E-8. The last moving vehicle making contact with another live vehicle in all events will be declared the winner.
E-9. The Decision of the derby officials will be final!
E-10. Any driver and/or crew member(s) disobeying the rules will cause their car to be disqualified.
E-11. The driver and the car qualify for the feature. No driver or car changes. Only cars and drivers entered in previous heats qualify for consolation heat or feature.
E-12. You must stay in your car. Do not leave your car unless you are told to do so by a derby official or the red flag (or checkered flag) has been displayed and all cars have stopped. Leaving your car or "STANDING UP" is grounds for disqualification. If an emergency arises during an event and cars must be moved for safety, running cars will be returned to original position for the restart.
E-13. If a driver does not hit another live car within 1 minute they will be disqualified.
E-14. If we feel the need to drill any frames at any time, we will do so. The decision of the judges is final.
*INSPECTION*
I-14. Anyone found blatantly cheating (hidden welds, pitched frames where not allowed, etc.) will be given the option to correct the issue and charged a $100 cash re-inspection fee payable at time of inspection. Derby officials reserve the right to inspect any car at any time.
I-15. Inspection will close 30 minutes before the starting time. LATE ARRIVALS ARE SUBJECT TO AN INSPECTION FEE OR REFUSAL.
I-16. You must be in the inspection line 1 hour before inspection close time.
WINDSHIELD CLASS
W1. Any 80 or newer front wheel drive. 4 or 6 cylinders
W2. Windshield/Glass
Windshield may be left in place.
If windshield is removed, there must be a vertical bar or wire from roof to fire wall. #9 wire double strand.
All other glass must be removed. If you break any of the windows while removing them, all glass must be swept out of doors/off floor/out of window seals, etc.
No covering with tape is allowed.
W3. Body
Remove outside molding, mirrors, headlights, taillights, hood and trunk latches.
Exhaust must be removed from in front or behind converter.
No cutting, bending, hammering, or creasing body is allowed.
Trunk lid must be on car in factory location.
You may remove the rear bumper.
W4. Bumpers
Plastic cover must be removed.
Must use stock bumper unless it is plastic. Plastic can be replaced with a 98’-02’ ford style bumper. No chrome style.
Front bumper must be welded on or wired to core support. Bumper may be welded all the way around but no adding of steel or cutting of bumper/frame.
Wired bumpers can have 4 double strands of #9 wire to core support either around or through the bumpers.
W5. Tie Rods
Broken tie rods may be welded but no adding of steel
W6. Battery
May be moved to inside of car – Prefer it to be in a box.
Must be secured to floor.
No moving computer or any electrical component.
If battery is left in factory position, must be secured with spray foam
W7. Gas Tank
May stay in factory location and secure
May use an after market stainless steel or aluminum tank with a fuel pump either in tank or in line. MUST BE APPROVED BEFORE THE SHOW.
W8. Doors
May be wired or chained in up to 2 spots on vertical seams.
i. Any 2 spots at the top of the doors
Must be a bar in the driver’s side door.
W9. Trunk
a. May be wired in up to 6 spots with #9 wire double strand.
i. 2 of those spots must be around or through the rear bumper.
ii. If wired before the inspection, a 12” hole must be cut in trunk.
W10. Hood
May be wired in up to 4 spots with 9# wire double strand.
Must have a 12” hole cut in hood.
Must be open for inspection
W11. Tires & Rims
Must be factory made.
May run donut spare on the back.
Tires must be radial tires
No tubes, no doubles, and no snow tires.
W12. Interior
Air bags must be removed or deactivated.
No other interior to be removed other than door panels to remove windows.
Back seat may be removed.
FULL SIZE STREET STOCK CLASS
F1. If someone thinks you have a gear in your car, it is a non-refundable $100 protest fee that goes to the promoter. If the car is caught with an aftermarket gear, prize money will be lost.
F2. 1980’s and newer. No hearses or limousine’s permitted.
F3. Cars must be 100% stock. No cross breeding. Entire drive line must be same make as car (Chevy to Chevy, Ford to Ford, etc.) must appear to be factory engine to car with stock exhaust. Exhaust may be cut off.
F4. Engine must be mounted with stock mounts in stock position. No welding of mounts, bolted only. No homemade cross members. Cross members must be stock and bolted in, not welded.
F5. You may leave the gas tank in the stock location, if in front of the rear axle. You may relocate a fuel tank to rear floor of car. If this is done, you must use a fuel cell. If boat tank is used, it must be approved by officials before the show. No stock fuel tanks permitted inside of the car. If you move the fuel cell to inside of the car, it must be securely fastened to the floor with bolts. Rachet straps are not approved to mount fuel cells.
F6. Windshield may be left in car or you can remove it. If the windshield is removed, you must have 1 strand of #9 wire from roof to firewall. The following must be removed prior to entering the fairgrounds: windows, headlights, taillights, all chrome, and mirrors. You must remove all glass, plastic and fiberglass from the outside of the car, including plastic bumper covers. Interior must be swept clean of debris and glass.
F7. Under the hood you may take plastic fender wells out. The battery may be left in stock location. You may put a rubber mat over it or spray foam around it – not excessively. You may move the battery to the floor of the car and lengthen cable to reach the battery on the floor, not the wiring harness. This will be strictly enforced.
F8. If the car has a wiring harness in front of the core support, you may move it behind the core support. You cannot remove body mount bolt to do this.
F9. All body bolts must be factory stock, no altering permitted.
F10. Doors must be chained or wired. No more than 4 places per door. You may use 5/16” chain or 2 strands #9 wire per hole.
F11. Trunks must be chained or wired. No more than 6 places, 2 of these must go around bumper. You may use 5/16” chain or 2 strands #9 wire per hole. TRUNKS MUST BE OPEN DURING INSPECTION. Deck lid and/or tailgate must be in factory position on car or be completely removed from car. You cannot remove speaker deck from car. No welding or adding metal. No tucking, wedging, pre-bending, smashing, or anything else you can think of. No welding washers to the body for wire. You may fold trunk in half at a 90* angle.
F12. Hoods may be wired or chained in 6 spots. You may use 5/16” chain or 2 strands #9 wire per hole. It must be sheet metal to sheet metal only. No welding washers for holes. Must be 12” hole in hood in case of fire. REMOVE HOOD LATCH. Hood must be open for inspection.
F13. Any tire and rim permitted, doubles permitted, no foam filled tires or bead locks permitted. You may run after market center and lip rings/bend rings no bigger than 2”.
F14. NO CREASING OF THE BODY IS PERMITTED.
F15. You can have a safety bar behind the driver’s seat if you choose. Theses may be no bigger than 6”x6” and mounting plate can be no bigger than 8”x8”. Can be mounted no further back than 6” behind driver’s seat. You may also reinforce the driver’s door as you see fit for driver’s safety. This may be done from door seam to door seam only, there must be at least a bar in the drivers door.
F16.Stock type springs and shocks. No solid suspension. Screw in type spring risers are ok, no wire, chains or any weld on rear ends or rear spring pockets. Cars must bounce and cars must be stock.
F17. Front bumper can be 1980 or newer in factory location and manner. You may collapse the shocks and weld all the way around. You may weld the plate to the bumper. DEC bumpers and ADEPT bumpers are permitted. Ends must remain open. No metal added to bumper permitted. You may also use up to 6x4x1/4 tubing and must leave ends open. You may use a 6”x6”x1/4” flat metal on back of bumper to create flat mounting surface.
F18. You may weld spider gear to make posi. You must use factory rear end housing for car you are running. No changing of gears or axles.
LIMITED WELD CLASS
LW1. Any year, front engine, 107 ½” or greater wheelbase, hard top automobile or station wagon is allowed. No 64-66 Imperials. No trucks, jeeps, hearses, limos, SUV’s, or carry-alls.
LW2. All glass including windshield, doors, headlights, taillights, mirrors, etc. must be removed, not broken and laying in doors. The car must be swept clean of all dirt and loose pieces. All chrome and decorative ornaments must be removed from the outside of the car. Protruding fenders or sheet metal must be cut off or bent over. All this work must be done before entering the pit area.
LW3. Pre-ran (vehicles run at a previous show or a previous day) full frame (no uni-body) cars with damaged frames may be repaired with up to 2 patches per side (4 total) with a maximum of 4x4x1/4” plate. Previous damage must be visible. Fresh cars may have one (per rail) 4x4x1/4” fix-it-plate anywhere on the frame, no excessive welding. You may not weld frame patches between heats and the feature.
LW4. Bumpers
Cutting bumpers (and fenders) for wheel clearance and/or restriction of steering is permissible. Front bumpers may be factory or aftermarket replica, including Chrysler pointies. Bumper dimensions measure 6”x4” straight. You can add a point 6” with it stretching out 12” in each direction from center. Factory bumpers may be loaded, seam welded, and reinforced behind the factory shell. You may not alter any factory bumper from its original shape or dimensions other than it may be shortened. We realize some factory bumpers may exceed the 6” rule but being factory, they will not have an advantage over a homemade bumper. Homemade rear bumpers, same specifications other than must be flat.
You may add a 6x6” mounting plate to the frame to weld your bumper to.
Bumper height is 14” min and 21” max on fresh cars.
LW5. Front Frame/Crush box forward
You may cut the front down to where ½ of the core support mount is left in the factory location. You may reweld what is left of the core support mount to the frame. You may put a 4x4” plate on top of the core support mount that can be welded to the frame and the core support mount.
Bumper Shock
Option 1: You may have a 10in round stock, same size as the factory bumper shock, welded inside the frame. It must be attached to the back of the bumper.
Option 2: You may have a 4in tall by 3/8” thick by 10in long plate welded on any one side of the frame. It must be attached to the back of the bumper. If placed on the outside of the frame with the core support mount, notch out the core support mount and slide it under.
Seam Welds
Only the first 14 inches of the frame can be seam welded from the front bumper back.
Suspension
Suspension may be solid, car need not bounce front or rear. Suspension jack screws (twisty jacks) or other material may be used in coil springs or 2 pieces (per a-arm) of up to 2”x2”x1/4” flat steel may be welded to the upper a-arm and frame. No race type spring jacks, no welding washers, plates or any material over top of spring pockets.
Factory spring for car. No ball joint protectors are allowed. You may use aftermarket ball joints. Upper must be bolted in like factory but may use an aftermarket sleeve. Lower may be welded in with an aftermarket sleeve. On 03+ You may weld in the upper ball joint to the a-arm with a sleeve OR weld in the factory ball joint.
A- Arms/Spindles
You may swap a-arms and spindles Ford to GM, GM to Ford. GM lift spindles are OK. 03+ must run the factory upper and lower a-arm.
A-arms may not be reinforced.
You may run up to 1” all thread for rear shocks and front shocks. On the rear, no bigger than a 3” washer on top of the package tray. For the front, no bigger than a 3x3 washer on top of the frame, and no bigger than a 4x4 washer on the bottom of the lower a-arm. No welding washers. 03+ must run the factory front shock but may add a pipe or square tubing that just fits over top of the shock and can be extended down and bolted back into factory location to get the ride height.
Sway bars may not be altered and may be bolted down to the lower a-arms. You must have the factory clamp and rubber bolted to the frame.
Leaf spring cars may replace broken leafs with 5/16” thick leafs max. Up to 7 springs allowed with a 1” stagger down. Leaf springs must remain in their original position. Leaf cars are allowed 4 factory clamps and 4 homemade clamps per stack. Homemade clamps must not exceed 2”x4”x1/4” thick. Bolt diameter for homemade clamps not to exceed 7/16”. No welding clamps and no welding leaf springs together. You may not run hump plates if you run a leaf sprung car. No leaf spring conversions.
03+ may run an aftermarket over the top cradle but it must bolt to the factory aluminum cradle no welding cradle to the frame. Cradle cannot strengthen the car in any way. Aftermarket cradle must be approved by officials first. No welding, chain, or bolts to the frame. Any frame rust repair will be same gauge material, no more than 1” overlap (from rusted area to non-rusted area). No overlapping patches. Will be at the official’s discretion.
You may alter, reinforce, or build steering components including tie rods. On ’03 and newer you must run the factory rack and pinion.
Tilting - front frame may be tilted in one location, either by bending at the cross-member area or at the box by cutting the flaps (cut no more than 3 sides), pulling down, and re-welding. 03+ may not tilt, but where the frame rail meets the crush box the unwelded seam may be welded – no more than ¼” wide weld. Rear frame may not be tilted. No adding steel or excessive welding. No squaring of frames anywhere.
2003 and newer frames may not be clipped with 2002 and older frames.
LW6. Mid-Section
Cross-member factory, or not bigger than 2x4x1/4”. You may weld up to 6” of angle or flat steel
to frame to mount transmission cross member but it must be at least 6” from front corner brace (gusset) or cars with no corner brace mount must be at least 9” from the box. You may add gussets (frame to box) no bigger than 1x1 square tube and no longer than 6in. It may be welded to the frame. No capping the top or bottom.
No other material or welds may be added unless stated.
LW7. Rear-Section of Frame
Rear Humps – You may run a hump plate. No bigger than 6” tall by 22” long by ¼” thick. May be contoured or a flat plate. Must be centered in the hump. If you run a flat plate, it can be no more than half way down the hump and must be 3” away from year end housing.
98+ newer rear end mounting
When installing an old-style rear end under ’98 and up models, weld just enough for the 2 lower rear-end brackets. The lower rear trailing arms must be mounted in factory location not to the frame and must be free to travel (not welded solid). The lower trailing arm mount can be no bigger than 6x3 – 4inches long and may be welded to the inside of frame to bolt the trailing arms to. You may run aftermarket watts conversion kit upper style mounts. The mounts may not be connected. You may weld in rear end cross member from earlier models. Brackets may not be welded in any way that strengthens the car. Rear end housing braces may be added but may not be used to support frame in any way. Rear ends may be braced. May run up to 10 lug axles.
Rear bumper mounting
The rear bumper shock can be no bigger than a 2x2 square tube or 2 in round pipe and no longer than 6in. It must be inside the frame. You may cap around the rear bumper with no thicker than 1/4” flat steel. No more than 2” can be welded to the frame.
LW8. Cage
A four-point cage may be installed consisting of one dash bar, one bar behind the seat, one door bar per side (may be inside door but may not extend forward of the firewall), and an optional center bar between the seat bar to the dash bar. Center bar may not extend rear of the seat bar or forward of the dash bar. Must be in around center of cage. Dash bar must be straight with no kickers and must have 4” clearance from bar to distributor protector and tranny tunnel. Door bars may be mounted to body at dash area or to dash bar and to the door post. One mounting plate per side. Approximately 6”x12” may be welded and/or bolted to the door post and/or door. The door bars may extend a maximum of 18” behind the side door post and be no more than 15” above lower inside door seam. An optional seat bar without a four-point cage may be installed conforming to above “seat bar” specifications. Cage must be at least 4” above floor. Roll bar may be added but must stand straight up. May be attached to cage and roof only (bolted to roof, not welded). May have 2 plates, not bigger than 3x3x1/4” each with 1 bolt per plate for the roof OR a 3inch 2x2 tubing with a bolt. You may have 2 down legs from cage welded to body only must be welded to the floor.
Gas tank protectors may not be more than 26” wide and be 3” minimum off floor. Tank protectors may be tight to the package tray and can be bolted with 2” bolts or two 1” long welds down the sides. Tanks must fit within the 26” tank protector area and not be excessive in size. Steel lines may run inside the car. Rubber lines inside the car must be run inside another hose. Tanks must be secured to floor or cage (not to side walls or doors) with bolts. No nylon strap
fasteners or welding tanks to floors. Tanks must be covered, and cover must be suitably attached at all times. All fuel lines and tanks will be at the discretion of the inspectors. Vehicles requiring electric fuel pumps must have an operational fuel pump kill switch. All original tanks must be removed.
Gas tank protectors must be 4” away from the rear window bar.
The battery and wiring must be rear of the firewall. You may run up to two starting batteries, but they must be safely secured and suitably covered at all times.
LW9. Body
Body bolts may be changed with up to 5/8” bolts and may not extend to the bottom of frame. Washers 3” maximum (round or square) may not be welded to frame or any sheet metal. A minimum of 1” body spacers (material of your choice) must be in place.
Core Support
Core support spacers 2x2 with a 3x3 washer on top and bottom, min ½”, no maximum height limit. May not be welded to frame at core support mount and not welded to core support. 2x2 may not go through core support. Core support bolts may be up to 1” and may extend from top of frame (not bottom) through core support and hood. May not be welded to frame, core support or hood. Core support bolts that extend up through hood will count as 2 of the hood fastener bolts. A maximum of 4 double strands of up to #9 wire may run from core support (not hood) to front bumper. You may cut lower sides of core support beside radiator, raise bottom then overlap and reweld to raise radiator. At least 50% of core support (when measured from top to bottom in the center) must remain in place. No other welds or added bolts to core support or other sheet metal.
No homemade radiators. Radiator must remain in original location and must be filled with water only. No radiator tank protectors, tanks must be exposed. Radiator may be mounted at your discretion. Nothing excessive. No adding anything in the center across the top of the core support. You may use a/c condenser, screen or expanded metal in front of radiator, but not be welded or excessive. Overflow hose must point down.
Hood
Hood must be open for inspection. Hoods may be held down with up to six double strands of #9 or smaller wire, sheet metal to sheet metal only, no welding washers or other material to hood or fenders. Core support bolts that pass through the hood will count as 2 of the 6 hood fasteners. Hoods must cover fan blades and transmission coolers. Hood safety latch must be removed. Hood hinge bolts may be up to 3/8”. You may add up to 8 3/8” bolts in hood sheet metal (plus hinge bolts). There must be a minimum 12” hole in hood above carburetor.
Doors
All doors must be wired, banded, chained, or may be welded a maximum of three 3x4x1/4” door plates per door seam. You may add 2 double strands of #9 wire to the top of each door seam, but no wire is allowed in the window opening. Your gas doors may be welded. Any plates or welds longer than 3x4x1/4” will be cut. Pre-ran sheet metal damage may be patched on doors only with up to the same gauge material and no more than 1” overlap. Drivers door may be welded solid with up to 3” strap and must
also be reinforced. Driver outer door skin can be up to ¼” thick, can overlap 3” on each side or there must be a plate welded inside from door bar down to floor board no thicker than ¼”. The inside of the passenger side door may also be plated from door bar down to the floor board, to help protect the battery.
Trunk
If you run a trunk lid it must be a factory, to the car, trunk lid, no plate steel and must be attached to factory hinges at factory location. Front half of trunk lid sides must stay above drip edge and drip edge must remain in original location. Back half may be folded down but not folded in half/doubled over. You may push center of trunk lid down but must remain above drip edge at sides. Trunk lid (or tailgate) may be wired with double strands of #9 wire in up to 7 spots or welded in up to 7 spots with a maximum of 4x3x1/4” flat steel. Sheet metal to sheet metal only. There must be a 12” hole or otherwise clear view inside trunk area. You may add a 2x2” vertical bar in rear window from top of window opening to front edge of trunk lid, not the floor. Cannot exceed 6” in length on roof or trunk and cannot attach to rollover bar and must be 4 inches away from gas tank protector. No bigger than 2x2 tubing. Window bar will count as one of the 7 trunk fasteners and may weld to one of the plates. If you choose to remove the package tray you will not be allowed to run a deck lid, window bar, or any wire. If you choose to remove the tailgate on station wagons you will not be allowed to run a window bar or any wire. Quarters may be creased but cannot be pulled in excessively. You may not fold rear quarter panels over or smash them down, they must stand up in stock position. No removing roof, tucking or wedging.
Front window bar
A minimum of one vertical safety wire or bar, 2x2x1/4” or 2” flat steel 6” on roof and firewall not connected to roll bar or DP. 3” away from the DP, must be in windshield area. Sheet metal to sheet metal only.
Fenders
A small amount of weld may replace broken lower fender bolts (below rocker panel just in front of doors). You may add 2 strands per side from fender to core support, sheet metal to sheet metal only. You may beat the fender well lips up. No adding bolts in the fender wells – front or rear.
LW10. Engine/Trans Protection
Transmission/transmission and oil coolers – may have a transmission brace but it must be the exoskeleton tubular type or a slide over exoskeleton. If you run the tubular style, you may add up to a ¼” plate on top of the brace between the tubes. No aftermarket steel bells. Can run aftermarket steel tail shaft. Transmission coolers may be under the hood or inside the drivers compartment but must have high pressure line and be suitably covered or shielded.
Distributor protectors no wider than valve covers. You may have a mid-plate no wider than the valve covers. You may run a halo around the carburetor. It must bolt to intake or water pump
only. Lower engine cradles, and front plate, and pully protectors are allowed but nothing further forward than the back of the water pump other than lower pully protectors. You may run aftermarket motor mounts. Nothing can extend from the front plate further back than the motor mounts. You may run an exoskeleton type trans brace. No steel bell but can run a steel tail shaft. You may also run a skid plate. It can be no wider then 2 inches past each side of the oil pan and transmission pan. Skid plate may be welded to oil pan and transmission pan and bolted in 4 spots to the transmission brace. Skid plate may touch the cross member but can not be bolted or welded to crossmember. Skid plate can not stick more then 2 inches in front of the oil pan and may not be connected to the saddle in anyway.
LW11. General
Fuel to be gasoline only. Only tanks permitted are STEEL boat tanks or metal fuel cells. NO plastic tanks. Tank must be mounted in the area of the back seat and suitably covered
Cars must have brakes before the beginning of the heat.
Any vehicle visibly leaking fuel will be disqualified.
Tires – Any tire any size is permitted. May be doubled, foam filled, or solid. No studs, screws or wheel weights. Rims may be reinforced. Valve stem protectors are allowed. Beadlocks permitted.
Stacks are permitted but must point up or down, not forwards or sideways.
Air cleaner is mandatory.
No undercoating or painting inside car, under car, on frame, or suspension parts. No material of any kind such as paint, undercoat, dirt, torch smoke, etc. inside frame.
All entries must have roof sign (18”x24” suggested size) and may not be attached to rear window bar or used to strengthen car. Sign may be attached to roll bar or roof but not both.
NO OTHER FRAME WELDING UNLESS STATED.
If the rules do not say you can do something, you can’t.
QUESTIONS ON WINDSHIELD/FULL SIZE STREET STOCK CLASS CALL OR TEXT BRIAN AVERESCH @ (419) 605-6252 OR CHRIS AVERESCH @ (419) 605-5128 OR CONTACT EITHER VIA FACEBOOK.
QUESTIONS ON LIMITED WELD CLASS CALL OR TEXT JON AVERESCH @ (419) 605-8231 OR CONTACT VIA FACEBOOK.
