**Gm 3800 and other motors in the same platform**

[d35n]

i beleive these engines are more widely used later on as far as years go  that and gms 60 degree v6s like the 3100 are being bought up like hot cakes   

from what i have seen each series of these motors does have its variations  the Naturally asperated intakes are different through all series but the supercharged intakes from the series 2 and 3 appear to be the same also might bolt onto a series 1 which is good if you plan on carb swapping 

the basics are the same as for a 3100 but the wireing for the trans sometime and coil packs almost always are different 

lets start with coil packs


For a Fi set up  leave them all hooked up   P gets power and K gets ground   
For a Carb set up  ABCDE. (Update F wire I required sorry) all get cut as well as P gets power K gets ground  E can be used for a tachometer 

And next the 4t65E trans    this hot wire setup is similar to 4t60E so power on is 1st gear and off is 2nd


cooling system is exactly the same work around as a 3100 just take out the temp sensor plug the hole and ziptie the sensor in a safe place  

headers good luck    


last but not least carb swap to do this you will need to go to your local junk yard   and open every hood till you find either a super charger or preferable a supercharged car that has has the supercharger removed  you need just the lower intake from a super charged car and a 2 barrel to 4 barrel adapter that has been trimmed   there is a big square hole on the super charged intake that is where the carb goes   you also need to plug the big round one beside it and the two small ones and all the others on the top surface of the intake     optionally you can plug where the heater core elbow goes on     

gets turned into this

and then you remove that plastic junk  and that aluminum weirdo intake below it and bolt your new one on and a carb 

and im not good with these photos so worse comes to worse heres an imgur album with them in it imgur.com/gallery/cmtRjWK

[fallinskiestwice]

Only 1 picture is showing up for me

[C4]

0 for me.

[d35n]

Which one. I might have an idea as to why i think it's cause three of the pictures are from my Google while one. The picture of the bare intake by itself is from a website

[fallinskiestwice]

The stock photo of the intake

[Luke Wells]

Jan 27, 2020 19:14:00 GMT -5 fallinskiestwice said:

The stock photo of the intake

That's all I get too.

[d35n]

Alright I know how to fix it. The rest are from my Google images. I guess I'll have to post them somewhere and the. Link them into it

[Junkyarddog84]

0 pics fof me as well

[taterjuice]

All but one showed up for me

[C4]

Getting there. I got 4 showing

[corbs247]

Here are some things that I learned before I started working on simplified harnesses for these motors.
1) Hot wire the coil pack. It doesn’t have to be grounded, I never had to but it’s your call.
2) Hot wire the fuel injectors. Especially with the Series 2, even if the VATS is working, the computer will cut power to the fuel injectors and put you out of action. Simplest way to do this is to just pull the fuse and run the hot wire into where the fuse used to go.
3) If you strip out the dash, but leave the wires, make sure the BCM is grounded. If it’s not, the motor will run for like 3 seconds and shut itself off.

[corbs247]

Also, I decided to go ahead and offer simplifying 3800 harnesses. Head to W Body Talk and Swap on Facebook and you’ll find my post.

[corbs247]

A little more to add here now that I’ve got time.
Pre-Series 1 and Series 1 3800s as well as 3300s are architecturally the same, so you can swap most parts around for them. The same can be said for Series 2 and Series 3s, but Series 1 and Series 2 are just about completely different.
Smoking Headers makes headers for Series 2 and up, and from the little bit of research I’ve done it looks like 3.1/3100 headers will work on a Series 1, but the stud holes will have to be redrilled to fit. Once I get more time I will try it out for myself.
Lastly, I figured out a Series 2 harness will work on a Series 1, however the throttle position sensor will have to be converted to the Series 1 style, a MAP sensor will have to be plumbed in, and if the O2 sensor is kept, it’ll have to be converted as well.

[wood47]

Feb 4, 2020 19:56:53 GMT -5 corbs247 said:

Here are some things that I learned before I started working on simplified harnesses for these motors.
1) Hot wire the coil pack. It doesn’t have to be grounded, I never had to but it’s your call.
2) Hot wire the fuel injectors. Especially with the Series 2, even if the VATS is working, the computer will cut power to the fuel injectors and put you out of action. Simplest way to do this is to just pull the fuse and run the hot wire into where the fuse used to go.
3) If you strip out the dash, but leave the wires, make sure the BCM is grounded. If it’s not, the motor will run for like 3 seconds and shut itself off.

What does the bcm look like and how do you ground it? Usually they are just plastic right?

[corbs247]

Apr 30, 2020 16:45:38 GMT -5 wood47 said:

Feb 4, 2020 19:56:53 GMT -5 corbs247 said:

Here are some things that I learned before I started working on simplified harnesses for these motors.
1) Hot wire the coil pack. It doesn’t have to be grounded, I never had to but it’s your call.
2) Hot wire the fuel injectors. Especially with the Series 2, even if the VATS is working, the computer will cut power to the fuel injectors and put you out of action. Simplest way to do this is to just pull the fuse and run the hot wire into where the fuse used to go.
3) If you strip out the dash, but leave the wires, make sure the BCM is grounded. If it’s not, the motor will run for like 3 seconds and shut itself off.

What does the bcm look like and how do you ground it? Usually they are just plastic right?

When you tear the dash apart, there’s usually a black wire grounded somewhere in the neighborhood of the steering column. Yes it’s a plastic box, usually on the drivers side. There has been some that were light aluminum, but I haven’t seen many of them