Note these have a lot of differences to the Paris rules for Route 1 Rumble. Best of luck to David Bauer and Lynn Dave Utterback on their shows! This what Chad put on Fb just want to make sure that everyone see's not everyone follows FB...These are also Different from Cayuga,In fair show
RT1 RUMBLE..Paris,Il. Just little derby in Edgar Co..trying to get bigger one car at a time....
Is the show still a go or has it been cancelled? Heard on 98.5 that the fair has been shortened to July 10th thru the 12th with no rides or games only truck pulls on Friday, something on Saturday and then circle track on Sunday with limited crowd count all 3 nights.
Post by 4umotorsports on Sept 23, 2020 16:11:19 GMT -5
Limited weld rules for Full Size Trucks, Full Size Cars, Mini Trucks Mini Cars, Mini SUV and Mini Vans Frame : No pinning, painting, stuffing, welding frame holes shut or altering of frame except what is mentioned below. No frame shaping except for 12 inches of the rear humps. 6 inches in front and 6 inches behind the center of the hump. No welding or adding material. No hump plates. Only method of pitching is COLD BENDING!! No exceptions! Fresh cars/trucks get 4 plates anywhere on the frame and Preran cars can have 8 plates. No bending plates into angle iron. Plates can be contoured to the frame, but no 90 degree bends! No plates bigger than 4”x6”x1/4” or you will cut. No plating of engine crossmember except for 1 plate per side to weld motor mounts down. Keep it minimal and plate cannot touch side frame rails. Maximum thickness of material is 1/2 inch. No body or frame seam welding anywhere except for MINI CARS. They can weld body seams and K member seams firewall forward only. You are allowed to #9 wire or chain rear frame rails together in 1 location behind rear hump. Chain can be no bigger than 3/8” and can only be bolted, not welded. Front frame rails can be shortened, but the hole in the factory core support mount must remain intact and uncut. The factory core support mount must be in the factory location. Plates and/or welds are not allowed to touch. Must have a gap! Plates must be welded to the frame only, not to the body or sheet metal. Frames can be re-clipped, re-horned with same make and model frame, 1 inch overlap max.
Bumper /Bumper Mounting : Homemade bumpers are allowed but both ends must be capped off or wrapped in a chrome skin, and no bigger than 8”x8” material can be used for homemade bumpers. Points on the front cannot be bigger than a factory Chrysler bumper. No points on rear bumpers! Any bumper shock/bracket may be used to mount bumper to the frame or you can use 2”x2”x1/4” square tube or 2”x2”x1/4” flat plate. No rear brackets can be used on the front, only on the rear and cannot be welded past 6 inches from end of frame on the rear. Bumper shocks cannot extend more than 6 inches past the center of the hole on the core support mount, even if the shock is inside of frame. Shock can be welded or bolted. Rear bumper shocks cannot extend onto or in rear frame no more than 6 inches. Hardnosing bumpers is allowed in all classes. Must be able to see where the bumper shock ends. We will scope and drill the frame if need be. Minimum rear bumper height is 12” for MINI CARS, 14” for FULL SIZE CARS and MINI TRUCKS/MINI VANS and 18” for FULL SIZE TRUCKS. Maximum front bumper height on Fullsize trucks is 30” to the top of the front bumper. You are allowed 2 bumper straps per bumper, 2” wide, ¼” thick max and can only extend onto the frame 2”. The minimum bumper height measurement will be taken from the bottom of the rear frame in all classes.
Suspension/Steering : All suspension components must be factory for that make/model car. Replacement with OEM parts only! No Joker style or any other such parts like that allowed. Tierods can have angle iron welded to the sleeves only. Ends must be factory OEM tierod ends. Aftermarket steering shafts allowed. Steering gear boxes can be swapped, but must mount in the factory location without any added material and no welding allowed. 2003 and newer Fords can have a ford gear box installed by drilling holes through both sides of the frame in the factory location of a 2002 and older Ford. You can install small diameter pipe (sleeve) inside the frame for the bolts to pass through. No welding of the bolts, gearbox or pipe (sleeve) or washers allowed at all on any car. The steering idler arm must be bolted through one side of the frame only, no welding. This rule is for 2003 and newer only, other cars/trucks are NOT allowed to use this mounting technique, must be factory mounting for your make and model car. Sway bars can be bolted to lower control arms with 3/8” bolt. Sway bar must be mounted to frame in stock location with factory mounting hardware. Sway bar cannot be welded to the frame or A arm. ZTR brackets or homemade trailing arm brackets can be used on 98 and newer Fords. MUST be bolted in the factory location, no welding of aftermarket/homemade brackets. You are allowed to use a factory bracket from 97 and older Ford, but must be welded in factory location without any added material. Material used for homemade brackets can be no bigger than 3”x3”x1/4” tube. Bolt cannot pass through both sides of the frame. Rear trailing arms can be shortened, overlapped and welded back together but no adding material. A single hardware washer can be welded to the upper rear trailing arm hole on each side. Front A arms can be welded down with a single 2”x4”x1/4” plate from the A arm to the spring pocket. The 4” side must be vertical! No pipe or tube can be used on full size cars. Same rule applies for trucks and mini cars with A arms. This is the only acceptable way of locking front suspension with A arms. Trucks without A arms can have one piece of 1.5 inch round pipe or 1.5 inch square tube from bottom of frame to axle or leaf spring on each side. Mini cars/mini vans without A arms can weld front struts solid without any reinforcement to the body or frame. Rear suspension must remain stock with OEM parts, no solid shocks or doubled springs. You can wrap #9 wire around coil springs and rearend. . No chaining in front of the rear humps. You can wrap 1 chain around the rearend and hump per side, but must be vertical and bolted together, not welded to the frame. Chain no bigger than 3/8”. Rear leaf springs and mounting must remain stock and in stock location. No adding leaf springs. No leaf spring conversions allowed in any class.
Drivetrain : Max wheel base for mini cars is 110” for FWD and 106” for RWD. NO FULL FRAME CARS in that class. Mini Vans will run the Mini Truck Class. Any engine or transmission allowed in FULL SIZE CARS and FULL SIZE TRUCKS only. No bigger than a V6 engine in all other classes. Engine cradles are allowed. Basic cradles such as Robbo, Big Rock, XXX, M-1 are allowed, but no distributor protectors. Nothing on top of the engine can extend any further back than the backside of the stacks. You can have stack protectors, but must remain simple. No carb protector (halo) can be past the back of the stacks. Nothing can bolt on back of cylinder head or to transmission bellhousing. No spark plug or spark plug wire protectors allowed. No supports are allowed to extend from the cage to the engine/transmission or vice versa. Engine cradle cannot be welded or bolted to side frame rails except for rules mentioned for the 2003 and newer Fords. No welding engine cradles to engine crossmember or frame rails. Only motor mounts can be welded. You can chain your engine down with a single chain per side. It can only be welded to the engine crossmember/ k member with 2 chain links welded down, and not the frame rail. Max chain size is 3/8”. No transmission protectors of any kind. No transmission case modifications allowed. Steel bells and Ultra bells allowed, but nothing can be added. If you run a steel bell, you are NOT allowed to form the sheet metal of the transmission tunnel around it. You are NOT allowed to cut and fold the tunnel down around the back of the steel bell. If you rip the sheet metal during install, no welding the sheet metal back together. Solid motor mounts allowed, keep them minimal. No contoured transmission cross members allowed. If you choose not to use the factory transmission cross member, you can use 2”x2”x1/4” square tube. One piece of 3”x3”x1/4” angle 6” long can be welded to the frame on each side to attach the cross member to the frame. Must use OEM style transmission mount, no solid transmission mounts allowed! Steel transmission tail shafts allowed. Cannot be welded to the transmission crossmember. You can wrap transmission tail shaft to cross member with #9 wire or a ratchet strap only. No chain. Slider shafts are allowed. Any rearend allowed in FULL SIZE CARS and FULL SIZE TRUCKS ONLY! MINI TRUCKS are allowed a 6 lug rearend max. MINI CARS are allowed 5 lug rearend max. Must mount in the factory manner for that car or truck. Rearend braces are allowed but cannot contact frame or reinforce frame in any way! No axle savers allowed. Pinion brakes allowed. Any rubber tire allowed. Any OEM rim allowed, wheel centers allowed, bead lip protectors allowed on bead lip only (keep it simple), valve stem protector allowed. No homemade rims to look like tires allowed! No bead locks allowed! 2003 and newer Fords must leave the factory aluminum engine crossmember/cradle in place. You can use an aftermarket crossmember/cradle designed for 2003 and newers to install your engine to the factory aluminum. It can only bolt to the aluminum cradle in the factory locations and on top of the factory bolts on the front frame rails. No other bolting allowed! Must leave factory bolts in the frame. Maximum thickness of either a purchased or homemade crossmember/cradle is 1/2" thick. Absolutely no welding to frame rails! If you have any questions or need to see pictures of the 2 acceptable crossmember/cradles allowed, feel free to text me and ask for pictures. No radiator protectors allowed except for a single 1/8” thick piece of expanded metal or a single a/c condenser in front of the radiator, not both! Can only be mounted with four 3/8” bolts and washer no bigger than 2 inch diameter. Radiator must mount in factory location. You can ratchet strap your radiator to core support or you can weld 2 pieces of 2” wide flat plate no thicker than 1/8” thick on top of core support and run 3/8” all thread down to the lower radiator support. No added plate on bottom of radiator support.
Cage : 4 point cage required. Dash bar, 2 door bars and a back seat bar. Door bars cannot be longer than 60 inches and must be 6 inches above floor. Dash bar must be 6 inches away from firewall. At no time will a steel bell be allowed to touch the cage. Max cage material is either 3”x3” or 2”x6”. Cage must be inside of car and not through the doors. Roll over bar is HIGHLY recommended and must be vertical, not pitched forward or backward. Must attach to the cage and no further back than 6 inches behind driver seat, no matter where the seat is located. This is for safety, not reinforcement. It can be bolted to the roof in 2 locations with 1/2” bolts. Washers cannot exceed 4”x4”. 4 down legs are allowed to be welded from the bottom of the door bar (not the back of the door bar) to the frame or sheet metal. Cannot be bolted to the frame. No part of the down leg can be in front of the front inner door seam. Down legs CANNOT exceed 3”x3” material. No exceptions! Door bars cannot extend past firewall in drivers compartment. Must have windshield bar or #9 wire. Windshield bars must be outside of valve covers and can only attach to the firewall and 2 inches onto the roof. Cannot attach to the cage or roll over bar. Material cannot be bigger than 2” wide and 1/4" thick. #9 wire can only attach to the roof and firewall. No back window bars allowed in any class. Gas tank protectors allowed. Cannot be any wider than 30 inches and must have a 4 inch gap between rear speaker deck/sheet metal. Halo type protector can be built, must not extend any further than 4 inches above the top of tank. TRUCKS and MINI TRUCKS must mount the fuel tank within 4 inches from the back of the cab, and tank protector cannot extend any more than 4 inches from rear of fuel tank. For MINI VANS, the gas tank must mount within 4 inches of back seat bar and tank protector cannot be more than 4 inches above or 4 inches past the back of the tank. Nothing can extend off of the gas tank protector to the cage, rollover bar, side bars, frame or sheet metal.
Body/Body Mounts : All body mounts bolts can be replaced and go all the way through sheet metal if you want. Must have either factory rubber mount or you can use a hockey puck. No bolting the body solid to the frame. Must have a gap between body and frame all the way from front to back. Body bolts CANNOT exceed 3/4" in diameter. Washers inside of car cannot exceed 4”x4”x1/4” material. Bolts cannot pass through both sides of frame. Washer inside of frame CANNOT be homemade, must be a store bought hardware washer. No welding washers to the frame! Body bolts cannot extend more than 3 inches above sheetmetal. Body mounts can be removed and k member bolted solid in MINI CARS ONLY!! Mini cars must follow body bolt size rule!!! No welding body to frame or k member. No body seam welding except for MINI CARS ONLY! FULL SIZE CARS , MINI CARS and MINI VANS can add 2 body mounts anywhere of your choice inside the passenger compartment only. MINI TRUCKS and FULL SIZE TRUCKS can put the extra body bolts in the bed if they choose. It cannot touch the crush box on any car, cannot exceed a 3/4" bolt or 3/4" all thread and must have a spacer. It must be welded to the side of the frame rail in a vertical position, single pass weld down both sides only. No plate added. 1” All thread allowed in core support mounts only. All other body bolts cannot be bigger than 3/4". Core support spacers must be free floating and cannot exceed 2”x2”x1/4” square tube. Must use factory core support mount, no added material or altering the factory mount! All thread cannot be sleeved! 6”x4”x1/4” plate can be welded on top of core support for the all thread to pass thru. Cannot be welded to the fenders, core support only. Doors can be welded solid if you desire with material no bigger than 3” wide x 1/8” thick. Hood can have a total of 6 hold downs. The all thread in core support counts as 2 of them. You are allowed to weld angle clips to the fender and hood in 4 locations and bolt it together with bolts no bigger than 3/8”. Angle clips can either be welded on top of fender and hood, or to the fender under the hood . If you weld it under the hood, you are allowed to use 1” all thread welded to the angle up through the hood and bolt it down that way in 4 locations. Angle iron can be no bigger than 2”x2”x1/4” thick and no longer than 2 inches long. Unlimited #9 wire is also allowed. No welding all thread/hood hold downs to the frame/unibody or sheetmetal! Max size hood washers/hold downs is 4”x4”x1/4” and must be individual plates/washers. No bridging between 2 pieces of all thread allowed. Hood must be present and raised during inspection. Trunks, tailgates or rear hatch can be welded in 6 locations using 2”x4” material no thicker than 1/4". Unlimited #9 wire allowed. FULL SIZE TRUCKS and MINI TRUCKS are allowed to weld the cab to the bedside in 2 spots per side with a 4”x4” flat plate no thicker than 1/4". FULL SIZE TRUCKS and MINI TRUCKS must leave bedsides vertical and tailgate in the factory location. Trunk can be bent in half, cut in half, removed or left complete. It can be pushed down in the center but not all the way to the trunk floor. No wedging allowed. Trunk lid must remain on top of drip rail. Rear quarter panels must remain vertical and in factory location. Hood can have inner skin bolted in 10 spots with 3/8” bolts and 3/8” washers. No homemade washers. Firewall wall must remain in its factory location/position. Not pushed back or pushed down in any way. Everyone must have a 10” hole in trunk and hood!!! No exceptions! Body panel seaming is allowed on rear quarter panels and front fenders only. No welding and no adding material. Tops of doors can be bent down and welded but no adding material!! Each wheel well can be bolted with five 3/8” bolts and 3/8” washers per wheel opening. No skinning/sheeting of body panels. You can patch holes with sheetmetal thick material only. Bolt in items such as pedals, gas tank, battery box, tranny cooler ect. cannot be attached to frame or transmission crossmembers. Rusty floor pans/trunk pans can only be repaired with sheetmetal thick material only. If it’s that bad, maybe you should get a cleaner car.
No Imperials allowed! Officials decision is final!! For questions pertaining to rules, please contact David Bauer @ 812-229-7684 Text anytime between 8am and 8pm Call anytime between 3pm and 8pm, Monday thru Friday
80's & Newer Bone Stock,Powder Puff, Youth class Rules Powder Puff wheelbase 110" Youth Class wheelbase 105" FWD cars only. All cars must be 1980 or newer and passenger car or station wagon to compete. General Rules -Remove all glass, mirrors, carpet, and plastic. Remove all decking on station wagons. -Vehicles must be swept clean of all debris. -All cars must have working brakes. -Battery must be mounted securely in the drivers compartment, no bungy straps. Only 1 car type battery allowed. Battery box size is limited to a max of 18"x12" and can be welded to the cage or bolted securely to the passenger side floor pan. No bolts may be attached to the frame. Floor sheet metal only. It must be on the flat part of the floor pan only and not running up the firewall. You have to have a cover over the battery. -Fuel tanks must be securely mounted behind the driver or passenger seat area. You can use a fuel cell or boat tank. Plastic tanks are not recommended, but if you choose to use one it needs to be mounted in a steel containment box and away from the doors and rear firewall. Once again, securely mounted. Using bungy straps over the top of them will not work. -You may run an electric fuel pump, but must wired to a kill switch and clearly marked. -Fuel lines must run through the car and not underneath. Keep all fuel lines away from headers or pinch points on the firewall that could cut the line. -You must have a working seatbelt. -If you're not running headers through the hood, you need to have at least 8" hole cut in the hood above or around the carbeurater in case of a fire. -For inspection you need to bring your hoods with your car, and be able to open them. If running a trunk lid it needs to be open at inspection. -Absolutely no hammering or creasing of the body allowed. No pre-bending of any kind. Station wagons may not be tucked or sedagoned at any time, even pre-ran. -Anything may be removed from the car, but nothing can be added unless stated in the rules. -If you have floor pans that are rusted out, you may patch them using sheet metal only. Rust must be visible and 1" overlap around the rust. No other rust patching allowed. -You may run aftermarket gas/brake/clutch pedal setups. They can be mounted to the cage or drivers floorboard. However, if they bolt to the floor it cannot be slanted up towards the firewall and the max size is 14" wide by 21" long. Can only be mounted to the floor sheet metal. Pedals cannot be attached to the cage and the floor. One or the other.
Doors -All doors must must wired, chained, or welded shut. -Front doors may be welded using up to 2"x1/8" strap. You may weld up to 12" on each front door vertical seems only. It may be one continuous weld, or broken up, but only 12" per seem on front doors only. -The back door vertical seem may be welded up to 6" using up to 2"X1/8" strap. It may also be continuous or broken up, but only 6". -Note, the doors may not be welded all the way around, only vertical seem. -You cannot weld the inner and outer skin together. -If you choose not to weld the door, they must wired or chained in at least 4 spots per door.
Cage -A back spreader bar behind the drivers seat, running side to side is manditory, but a full cage is recommended. -You may have a standard 4 pt. cage with 4 downlegs to the sheetmetal. All horizontal cage components must be at least 8" above frame level. You may have one bar running side to side in place of the dash and one running side to side no more than 6" behind the front seat, and the front seat must be bolted in the factory location. You may have a driver and passenger side door bar connecting the front and back bar. The side bars may not be any further back than 8" behind the front seat. You may have up to 4 downlegs running to the floor sheetmetal only, not to the frame. Front downlegs may be no further forward than the front door inner door seem, and the back downlegs may be no further back than your back spreader bar. -You may have one rollover bar that runs straight and over. It can run under or above the the roof of the car, and attach to your side or back bar. No angling of the rollover bar, it must be straight up and down. -A small gas tank protector will be allowed off of your back spreader bar. It is to be no wider than 24" and must be a minumum of 10" away from the doors. It must be a minumum of 4" away from rear firewall. This must attach to the back spreader bar only and nothing else.
Body Mounts -All body mounts be completely stock and untouched except for the the front core support mount. If you have a rusted or broken body bolt, you may double wrap 9 wire around the frame and floor at that location only. No body bolts may be added. -To help keep the body attached to the frame in the rear of the car you may run #9 wire from the rear taillight panel around the frame or back bumper. You may have 4 spots doublewrapped. -The front two core support mounts may be replaced with up to 3/4" allthread. This may run thru the frame and up thru the hood. You may use up to a 4" tall spacer between the bottom of core support and the frame, no bigger than 2"x2" square or 2" round tubing. This may not be welded to the frame or core support, and must start on top of the frame and stop at the bottom of the core support. Max washer size is limited to 4"x4"X1/4", and may not be double nutted anywhere.
Trunks -Trunk lids must remain on the hinges or must be completely removed. You may tuck the trunk lid using one 90 degree bend: It must be completely stock, outside of that. -Trunk lids can be #9 wired to the quarter panels, and/or speaker tray in up to 6 spots. You can use up to 2 loops of wire in these locations. Note: this needs to be done after inspection, and this is the only way you can attach your trunk lid. -You may run 2 loops of #9 wire from quarter panel to quarter panel.
Hood/Cowl -Outside of your 2 allthreads at the core support mount, you can #9 wire your hood down in up to 4 spots with 2 loops of wire. It can attach to the front bumper if you choose to. -For safety you must have at least 9 wire or a chain ran from the roof to the top of the cowl in the windshield opening. You may ran up to two 2"x1/4" metal straps if you prefer.
Drivetrain -You can use the engine and transmission of your choice. However, engine cradles, distributer protectors, header and carb protectors, pulley protectors, and trans braces are not allowed. No protectors of any kind. Engines must use factory style engine mounts and nothing aftermarket or homemade. Engines must mount within 4" factory location. The mounting pad may be welded to the frames ends carriage. -You may use an aftermarket steel bellhousing for safety purposes, but no other bracing is allowed and no aftermarket tailshafts. Transmission must use a factory mount, or can be 9 wired to the crossmember. -Floor shifter or cable shifter is allowed. -Rearend swaps are not allowed. You cannot have any bracing on the rearend what so ever. Keep it all stock. You may lock the rearend by welding the spider gears, or using a spool. You can run whatever gear you'd like. -Slider driveshafts are not permitted. -You can run headers through the hood. -Transmission and oil coolers are allowed, but be securely mounted and use high pressure lines. -One factory car type radiator located in factory location. Aftermarket aluminum radiators are fine. You may use an electric fan. No extra engine cooling devices. If using a normal clutch type fan, your hood must cover it. -Radiators can be mounted how they came from the factory, or you may #9 wire them or ratchet strap them to the core support. The only thing allowed in front of the radiator is one ac condesor.
Steering/Suspension -Steering swaps are not allowed. All steering components must be the stock OEM parts for the car you are running. If parts need replaced go to the parts store and get the factory replacement part. After market steering column maybe used, but no more than 3/4" shaft and must be mounted only to the cage. However, the box must be stock for that car. Tie rods cannot be reinforced in any way. -You may change coil springs to help gain height or weld 1 1/2" OD square tube or pipe to lower a-arm and butt it up against the frame. WELDED TO LOWER A-ARM ONLY - On mid-size and compact cars with struts, to gain bumper height you can slide a hardware style washer over the strut shaft and weld the washer to the strut shaft only. -If you have a leafspring car, factory leafpacks, shackles, and clamps must me used. -No coil to leafspring conversions. -You may not chain rearends in. You can 9 wire springs to the rearend and to the package tray the spring sits in. Leaf spring cars may loops of 9 wire from the rearend to the body/unibody.
Bumpers/Frame -Any passenger car bumper may be used for the front and back bumper. All bumper seems may be welded and the chrome skin may be beat flat and welded to the backing. Front bumpers only may be loaded on the inside of the bumper only. The chrome skin and backing of the bumper must appear factory from the outside. You may use up to a 6x 8" mounting plate if you'd like. Back bumper can be swapped, but may not be reinforced. -When mounting front bumpers you may do one of 3 ways. Choose only 1.X 1. Use the factory shock. You can collapse the shock and weld the shock all the way around. Weld the shock to the frame and the bumper to the shock. No welding of the shock beyond 6" behind the factory core support mount. It must be left factory behind that point. You may weld a 2"X1/4" strap from the bumper to the frame, also 6" behind the core support mount to help hold the bumper on. 2. Do away with the factory shock and use up to a 2"x2" piece of square tubing inside the frame, or welded to the outside. It can be no further back than 6" behind the core support mount. No strap may be used if using this method. 3. Weld the bumper straight to the frame and use a 2"x1/4" strap welded to the bumper and on one side of the frame no further than 6" behind the factory core support mount. -Note, you may trim the front frame down to square it up to make it easier to weld the bumper to it. However, the core mount and mounting bracket must stay in the factory location. -The back bumper mounts and shocks must be used and not altered or welded on in any way. You may weld a piece of 2"X1/4" strap from the bumper to the frame, no more than 4" on the frame to help hold it on. -The factory transmision crossmember must be used or a piece of 2"x2"x1/4" square tubing. The 2"x2"x1/4" square tubing has to be straight side to side, not contoured. You may use a piece of 3"x3"x1/4" angle iron 6" long welded to the side of your frame to bolt or weld your crossmember to. -You may notch/dimple rear frame rails. -Absolutely no other welding may be done on the frame other than the bumper, engine mount, and crossmember mount. No seam welding. -No frame shaping, pitching or cold tilting allowed. -Fresh cars may use two 4"x6"x1/4" plates. -Pre-ran cars may use six 4"x6"x1/4" band-aid plates on a bent or broken frame. -No rust patching on the frames.
Wheels/Tires -No split rim, no beadlocks, and no protruding objects on rims. -No studded tires -Any tire & rim combination can be used other that.
'03 and Newer Fords - To mount your engine you can use a simple grey area style craddle, but still must use factory style clam shell mounts and factory rubber mounts. - To gain bumber height you can do one of the following not both: Move the lower strut mounting location from the bottom of the lower a-arm to the top of the lower a-arm or use 1"1/2" OD square tubing or pipe. WELDED TO LOWER A-ARM ONLY - Everything else on '03 and newer fords must follow rest of the stock rules.
Gut n Go Rules 1. 112” Wheelbase. FWD cars only 2. No full frame cars 3. Strip all flammable from inside of the car and trunk. Dash may stay intact. 4. Gas tank must be moved to inside of the car. Boat tank or custom tank highly recommended. 5. Electric fuel pump switch must be clearly marked if not controlled by the factory key. 6. Drivers door may be welded solid. All other doors can only be welded 5” on 5”off on vertical seams only. 7. Hood and trunk can only be wired shut with #9 wire in 6 spots after inspection. 8. 12” hole in hood is mandatory 9. Must run factory drivetrain. 10. DOT mud tires or snow tires ONLY 11. No welding on frame or unibody except for front bumper. 12. Only front bumper can be changed using 1980 and newer front bumper only. Single 3/8” weld pass can be used all the way around frame to weld front bumper on. Do not add any material and no other welding on bumper allowed or you will remove front bumper. 13. Steering and suspension must remain 100%factory. DO NOT TOUCH 14. Must have #9 wire or metal strap in front of windshield 15. Battery must be moved to passenger floorboard, secured and covered. 16. A sheet metal to sheet metal rear spreader bar running from pillar to pillar is mandatory. No plate bigger than 10” allowed to mount spreader bar. You may run a 4 bar cage( 2 door bars, dash bar, rear spreader bar) but must attach to sheet metal only. Roll over bar is recommended, You may also have 4 down legs from the cage to sheet metal only. 17. Pre ran cars are only allowed to use #9wire for repairs, NO welding. No plates allowed. 18. Roof sign recommended 19. NO PASSENGERS! 20. If at any time before or during the heat we deem your car unsafe, you will NOT be allowed to continue.