Clinton County Fair derby 7/8/2018

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RULES

MAKE SURE TO READ EACH EVENT AS NOT ALL RULES ARE EXCATLEY THE SAME.


PAYOUTS

LIMITED-WELD         WIRE         COMPACTS

1ST-$2000            1ST-$1200      1ST-$1000

2ND-$1000           2ND-$500        2ND-$500

3RD-$500             3RD-$300        3RD-$300

4TH-$250             4TH-$200

5TH-$150             5TH-$100

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$100 JUNKED AWARD CLASS HARD HITTER TROPHIES $250 & TROPHY FOR "JOHN BOWEN" OVERALL HARD HITTER.


LIMITED-WELD

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No trucks, vans, ambulances, jeeps, carry-alls, limousines, 4-wheel drives, hearses. No Chrysler Imperials or bodies on imperial frames. 74 Imperials and newer are ok.

Absolutely no: radiator guards (other than stock A.C. condenser) or tranny protectors.

Frames:

1.No, pinning, filling, stuffing or painting.

2. You may seam weld the top seam only from the front most mount of the a-arm to the bumper. You also may use 1 piece per frame rail of 2x4x1/4 strap to help aid in mounting your FRONT bumpers.

3. FIX - PLATES MAY BE 4 INCHES BY 6 INCHES BY ¼ INCH THICK

4. YOU MAY HAVE TWO 4”X6”X1/4” FIX-IT PLATES ON A FRESH CAR.

5. YOU MAY TILT YOUR CAR AT THE CRUSH BOXES OR AT THE CROSS-MEMBER NOT BOTH.

5A. IF YOU CAR IS TILTED AT THE CRUSH BOX OR THE THE CROSS-MEMBER YOU ARE ALLOW 2 FIX-IT PLATES ON A FRESH CAR. IF YOUR CAR IS TILTED AT THE CRUSH BOXES OR THE CROSS-MEMBER AND IS PRE-RAN YOU ARE ALLOWED 4 TOTAL FIX-IT PLATES.

5B. YOU MAY USE THE COLD BENDING METHOD OF TILTING.

5C. IF YOU COLD BEND TO TILT YOUR CAR YOU ARE ALLOWED 2 FIX-IT PLATES ON A FRESH CAR. IF YOU COLD BEND TO TILT YOUR CAR ON A PRE-RAN CAR YOU MAY HAVE A TOTAL OF 6 FIX-IT PLATES

6a. FIX-IT PLATES CAN BE ANYWHERE ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE FRAME AND MAY NOT BE TOUCHING IN ANY WAY. THIS INCLUDES WELDS TOUCH.

6b. If your car is not tilted you are allowed 2 plates on a fresh car and 6 total plates on a preran.

6c. You may only use one method to tilt.

6d. No frame shaping other than 12 inches in the center of each hump.

7. You may #9 wire or chain the frame rails together behind the humps. No homemade washers.

8. Frames can only be shortened to the front most weld of the core support mount. DO NOT CUT THESE OF AND REWELD THIS IS NOT A USEABLE SEAM. YOU MAY USE SPACERS ON A TILTED CAR, HOWEVER THE SPACER MUST REMAIN FLOATING, NOT WELDING SPACE TO THE FRAME OR CORE SUPPORT.

9. On uni-body cars (i.e. Suicide Lincolns, Cordobas….) you must have a ¾ hole drilled in frame in front and behind the a-arms on both sides. You may weld a ¾ hardware washer around the drill hole.

10. All frames will be scoped, and may be drill if something is in question.



Suspension:

1. Steering box swaps allowed. No welding on frame, keep mounts minimal.

2. Tie rods can aftermarket.

3. A-arms and spindles may be changed, but must stay Ford to Ford or GM to GM. No homemade or aftermarket parts with the exception of 98 and newer Ford cars may do the Watts Link conversion with ZTR style brackets. No additional metal may be added other than the brackets themselves.

4. Aftermarket steering shafts allowed.

5. A-arms may be bolted down with one 3/4 inch bolt per a-arm. No homemade washers. If you are running wishbone styles a-arms you may weld ONE piece of 2inch wide X 4 inches long x 1/8 inch thick piece of strap from a-arm to frame per of frame rail. This strap may not be welded more then 2" on to the frame. -Rear trail arms can be shortened or lengthened. Single hardware washers may be welded around the rear hole of the upper trail arms.

6. Rearend may be chained or wired around the frame in one spot per side.

7. Factory size, number and stagger will apply to factory leaf spring cars. 5 clamps per side, 2 3/8 inch bolts per clamp. Clamps no wider than 2 inches. No welding of leafs.

8. You may use ALL-THREAD as rear shocks. All-thread Shocks may not be attched to the frame in any way

Body Mounts :

1. Core support mounts may be replaced with up to 1 inch all-thread and ran through the hood. May be bolted solid or you may use a free-floating spacer. Spacers not to exceed 2x2 inch tubing.

2. 4 rear body mounts can be bolted solid. 2 of those may have ¾ inch all-thread ran vertically through the trunk lid. Wagons may go through the roof or pillars, but if you do that don’t use 2 pieces to hold the tailgate shut.

3. Core support and trunk washers may not exceed 4x4 inches.

4. Mopars can either go through the frame or be welded to the side. Must be on the flat part of the rear frame under the trunk pan.

5. No double nutting or sleeving the all-thread.

6. Body mounts from firewall to the humps may be changed. Only in factory locations. Only allowable substitution is to use a bolt no bigger than 3/4 inch. MUST HAVE 1’GAP FROM FIREWALL TO HUMPS. Do Not weld anything to body or frame.

7. Body mounts may not be used to mount your battery box, trans cooler, pedals, shifter, or any other floor mounted piece of equipment.

Drivetrain:

1. Any motor or transmission in any vehicle.

2. You may run a distributor protector, however if you choose to do so you must remove all cowl and firewall metal the width of the protector. Your distributor protector CANNOT connect the dash bar.

3. Engine cradles are allowed, but use a factory styled mount. NO SKI INC STYLED MOUNTS. CRADLES MUST NOT BE WELDED TO THE FRAME IN ANYWAY.

4. Solid lower engine mounts are allowed. If you need to weld plates under your lower mounts because they won’t sit on the engine crossmember that’s fine, but they must not be attached to the frame rails OR MORE THEN 2 INCHES LONGER OR WIDER THE THE MOUNT.

5. If you choose to chain your engine in, the chains must only be attached to the engine and straight down to engine crossmember.

6. Skid plates must be just for the pan they are protecting and can’t extend more than ½ inch from their pan.

7. You may run an aluminum ultra-bell on automatics OR STEEL BELLHOUSING. IF YOU RUN A STEEL BELLHOUSING YOU MUST CUT THE TRANSMISSION TUNNEL FROM FIREWALL TO SEAT AREA. Manual transmissions may run a blow proof bell housing. No additional bolts or welding permitted.

8. If you choose to not run the factory transmission cross member you may use 2”x2” tubing instead. It must mount in factory make and model location. No plates bigger than 2”x2” welded to the frame to weld your cross member to!!!

9. If you’re using a bolt on style transmission mount, it must be an O.E.M. rubber mount. If you choose to not run a mount, you may wrap chain or wire around transmission and cross member to hold it in place. NO WELDING and only one bolt if you choose the wire or chain route. -If your car is factory equipped with a floating cross member (example: mid 70’s Fords and 74 and older Cadillacs) you may add TWO 5/8” bolts and bolt it solid. Bolts may NOT run thru the floor pan in any way. If you choose to run a 2x2 piece of tubing for a crossmember it may NOT contact any metal other than where it is welded to the frame and the transmission tail shaft area. Washers cannot exceed 4”x4” diameter!!! This will be strictly enforced!!

10. Slider shafts are allowed.

11. Any factory car or truck rear end is allowed. No rear ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup permitted and only one wheel per side of rear end. You may weld brackets on the rear end to accommodate the vehicles factory suspension style. Rear end may be braced. Brace must only run across the back of the rearend and CANNOT re-enforce the frame in any way. NO AXEL SAVERS.

Bumper/Bumper Mounting:

1. Homemade pointy bumpers must have tapered point that closely resembles Chrysler pointy bumper.

2. Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges. -Any front bumper bracket may be used on any car. If you choose to, you may make your shocks out of 2”x2” tubing ONLY

3. Absolutely no bracket or shock may be welded past 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. If your cars FACTORY shock or bracket goes farther than 6 inches back, it must remain COMPELTELY FACTORY.

4. If you choose to hard nose or put your shock inside the frame you MUST have a ¾” hole in the top center of your frame 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. (unless we can clearly see the shock stops where it is supposed to). You may weld a ¾” hardware washer around the hole to make up for the missing metal. Single pass only! -Suicide Lincolns and cars that have no core support mount must only go 6 inches past the vertical part of core support right above the frame rail when mounting the bumper. -Rear bumper brackets may be welded, single pass only. Absolutely no rear bracket may be moved forward.

5. Rear bumper height may NOT be any lower then 14inches to the bottom of the bumper.

Cage:

1. 4 point cages are allowed. Must be a minimum of 6 inches above the factory body mount height.

2. Dash bar must be 6” from any firewall or cowl sheet metal, must also be 6” off the transmission tunnel.

3. 4 down legs are allowed to the frame, but must only be located in between the front door inner seams.

4. Down legs off of the cage that attach to the body must be no further back than the rear spreader and no further forward than the front door inner seam.

5. Roll over bars must be vertical and no further back than the rear spreader bar (maximum of 6 inches behind the seat). You will only be allowed to attach bar to roof with 2 bolts no bigger than 1 inch. Washers must not exceed 4”x4”.

6. Gas tank protectors are allowed but must remain 4 inches from the rear firewall and no more than 30 inches wide, and in the center of the car. It can be bolted to the floor if NOT attached to the cage.

Body:

1. Sheet metal may be cut for clearance, but no bending, folding or reattaching anywhere. -You may use five 3/8” bolts per wheel well opening. Hardware washers only. Absolutely no other bolting of the body other than the bolts allowed in the hood.

2. You’re allowed a maximum of 8 spots of double stranded #9 wire to hold hood down. You may weld a 1 inch hardware washer around each hole to keep from tearing. All wire must be body to body only.

3. Wagons tailgates may have 8 spots of double stranded #9 wire and 2 pieces of 3/4 all-thread, but the all-thread must be through the body only and NOT the frame.

4. The only acceptable rust repair on any car is allowed in the driver and passenger area. This is for safety purposes only, and if we think you used this to strengthen the car for anything other than safety purposes you will not be allowed to run.

5. Doors may be welded solid with strap no bigger than 4” x 1/8”. Tops of doors may be folded over and welded, but no added metal. Absolutely no other body seam welding besides doors!!

6. Hood must be open for inspection.

7. You may use 4 feet of 2”x 1/8” strap to secure trunk lids or wagon tailgates. Must be able to see inside trunk areas.

8. You may run double stranded #9 wire from quarter panel to quarter panel in trunk to keep the quarters from blowing apart. Single hardware washers may be welded around the holes.

9. No wedged cars allowed

10. Sedagons will be allowed, but call for allowable tucking methods. MUST BE ABLE TO SEE INSIDE REAR COMPARTMENT AREA.

11. In addition to the 2 pieces of all-thread in the core support, you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double stranded #9 wire in 8 spots.

12. No more than ten 3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.

13. You will be allowed 4 spots of double stranded #9 wire from your hood/core support to your front bumper.

14. Body creasing is allowed, but absolutely no bolting or welding to assist.

03 and Newer:

1. 03 and newer car are allowed, but may only use factory Ford parts. You may also only use a single pass of weld to attach k-member no wider then 1/2 inch. No plating or filling crush holes in the front. Must have a ¾ hole behind the a-arms for inspection, hole may have a ¾ washer weld around, but inspectors must be able to fit ¾ drill bit in the hole. No square tubing for spring pockets and no ALL-THREAD for front shocks. All other limited weld rules apply. YOU MAY ALSO A BOLT IN K-MEMBER BUT MUST USE A FORD FACTORY K-MEBER, AND MAY NOT USE SQUARE TUBING FOR SPRING POCKETS. ALL OTHER RULES APPLY. NO SEAM WELDING ON 03 AND NEWER.

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COMPACT RULES
First 30 to pass inspection

A. Body
1. Remove all glass.
2. Cylinders must be removed on hood and hatch if applicable.
3. Secure hatchbacks or trunks with wire, chain, or welding. Remove rear deck lids on station wagons and hatchbacks if not steel (meaning fiberglass material)
4. Wire is to be #9 wire, unlimited amount (Use as much as you want because anyone can get it)
5. You may replace body mounts with all thread or bolts no bigger than 1”.
6. Car must have a pipe, wire, or plate from the cowl to the roof to prevent the hood from entering car. You may add one to the front & side windows. Sheet metal to sheet metal mounting only. Nothing to cage or rollover bar. 2 pieces in each window opening max. Max. Material is 4x1/4. This is for your safety, not to reinforce your car!
7. You may use wire, bolts, or all thread no bigger than 1” to secure hood. (all-thread nuts need a handle to open hood)
8. Front doors should be painted white to help us cut down on door hits. If your door is not white – don’t whine if we don’t see a door hit on your car.
9. Roof – The car must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the car a minimum of 24” tall or we will spray paint the number on the top of the car. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the car!!! This is a family show!
10. NO REINFORCEMENT anywhere on the car.

B. Drive Train
1. Maximum original wheelbase dimension is 106” rear wheel drive center wheel to center wheel 113 front wheel drive center of wheel to center of wheel. A car may not run the race with a longer original factory wheelbase! No shortening of Frame to make it 106”.
2. Engine must be 4 or 6 cylinders only. (No V8’s)
3. NO 4x4 compact cars unless one driveshaft has been removed disabling that option. 4x4 cars are considered a rear wheel drive car regardless of which drive shaft is removed.
4. No distributor protectors or pulley protectors or transmission saddles allowed. Engine cradles are allowed as long as they are not being used to strengthen frame in any way.
4a. Distributor protectors only allowed on engines with distributor mounts in front of the motor
5. Front suspension may be locked. If you need to do so you may weld 1 strap to the body/frame (not the k-member) to do so. Strap must not be more than 2” onto the frame/body. If we feel you are using the strap to strengthen the car you will cut it.
6. Do not weld k-members or sub-frames to the bodies in anyway, this is not a seam.
7. Top outside seams may be welded. Do not seam weld anything in the driver/passenger compartment, do not weld any seams in the truck.
8. you may bolt you hood in 4 additional spots other than the core support. These must be hood to fender. You may use #9 wire in 4 places hood to fender to hold hood down. DO NOT USE BOTH.
9. No 8-lug rear-ends/ No floater rear-ends allowed

C. Bumper
Judge’s decision on safety of homemade bumpers is final.
1. Bumper height must be within reason, normal heights in front and the back not dropped to the ground, at the decision of the official (Safety 1st)
2. You can use ANY factory bumper or bumper shock on ANY model car. 2 bumper shocks max per fame rail, one front & one rear only per side. There must be a minimum 6" gap between bumper shocks and a-arms/strut. You may manufacture your own bumper mounts within these limits (4” max material). If you make a "homemade pointy" you have to have it where it is the same dimensions as factory Chrysler pointy. No small wedges allowed one's that looks like a wood splitting wedge. You are allowed 6” of the frame rail to mount your bumper with homemade components. Maximum homemade bumper height 6”. 6” maximum bumper material, 4” max material on bumper shocks, cannot be stacked. Your mounting is restricted to the rail only and can't bridge across frame rails. In addition to the weld &/or bolts, we also recommend either wiring or chaining the bumper to the frame. You may use a strap to help hold bumper on. It is to be no thicker than 1/4” and no wider than 3” and should not extend past 6” on top of the frame. Bumper strap to top or bottom of frame not both. No kickers from corner of bumper to frame. You are allowed to run a 1/4" spec bumper with a factory chrome skin covering it. Can be up to ¼” box tubing but must appear like a bumper! Minor “bumper only” reinforcement allowed to extend the life, but must be on the bumper only. No rear bumper brackets on the front of cars. Hard nosing allowed. You are allowed up to 24" of bumper to body welding with no fillers or plates. That is total for front and rear bumpers.

D. Driver Compartment
1. Remove stock gas tanks and put one in the back floor board, tightly secure, and cover. Gas Tank must be mounted inside the passenger compartment, tightly secured, and covered. Plastic tanks must be in a solid metal containment box & covered or you will not be allowed to participate, no exceptions. (We strongly recommend metal tanks!). Absolutely NO stock fuel lines. Secure new fuel line properly inside of the driver’s compartment, not underneath car. Keep away from exhaust. Gas tank protectors must be mounted to the cage or the floor pan, not both. Side bars must be at least 12” from the side sheet metal. Gas tank protector if on cage must be a "halo" type bar only, no gap required between protector and cage if floor mounted and not connected to sheet metal in any way (bolted or welded). Electric fuel pumps must be double clamped and covered. NO electronic fuel pumps without a full cutoff switch.
2. Move battery to inside the passenger compartment, tightly secure it, and cover it up.
3. MUST have a spreader bar behind the seat & must have driver door protection. Up to a 4” diameter Bar can be used
4. Cage must be at least a 4 point cage. No down bars in front of dash bars.
5. No kickers or angled down tubes allowed
6. The cage must be contained inside the car
7. Spreader bar must be at least channel, square tubing, or pipe, no thin wall material! Spreader bar must be behind seat.
8. You may weld, wire, or chain doors shut.
9. UNLIMITED # 9 wire use.
10. If inspection holes are not adequate in frame rails, we will drill a 3/4” hole approx 4” ahead of the strut on outside of the frame.

E. Tires: No solid Tires (Hyster tires, etc.) Tires MUST contain some air.

Please review the normal Modified car rules and apply all of those rules THAT CAN BE APPLIED.

You must have roll over protection for Safety!!!

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WIRE CLASS

1. Any American-made sedan or station wagon No imperials
2. Helmet, seat belt, and eye protection must be worn at all times. Long sleeves and Long pants required.
3. Any controversies or protests must be brought up during the drivers meeting.
4. Any questions call first. If it doesn't say you can don't do it. Cars must be stock. No painting of the frames. If the car is black it must have a 12" x 12" roof sign.
5. Judges decision's are final. All cars are subject to re-inspection at any time before, during, or after the event.
6. All glass, plastic, and interior must be removed before arriving to the event.
7. Any car motor of choice is permitted. NO DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTORS. NO ENGINE CRADELS. NO MOTOR PROTECTORS OF ANY KIND. NO KICKERS. MUST USE STOCK MOUNTS. Can have ONE chain per side, going down TWO length welded 3/8 chain to cradle under engine not the frame.
8. Hood- wire ONLY. 8 double strand of #9 wire 2 may go around bumper and or frame. Hoods must be open for inspection. (12" x 12" hole over carburetor). Deck lids may be wired same way no welding permitted. A 14" x 14" inspection hole must be put in all deck lids. Deck lids MUST be in original position. NO WEDGING. NO BODY CREASING PERMITTED. All doors must be wired shut, except drivers door may be weld using no bigger then 2”x1/8” flat strap. DOORS CAN BE WIRED OR CHAINED IN 6 SPOTS MAX.
9. No interior seam welding will be permitted. Some rust repair is permitted do not go overboard.
10. Rear coil springs may be wired or chained. No solid suspensions. All suspension components must remain factory stock. No modifications will be permitted. Cars must bounce.
11. Front coil springs must remain stock. You can use screw-in spacers. You may use 1 double strand per side of #9 wire to help hold your a-arms. #9 Wire may only be wrapped 1 time around the a-arm. Car must still have bounce and follow all ride height requirements Leaf spring cars must remain factory springs. NO EXCEPTIONS! You cannot change coil spring to leaf spring set ups.
12. Car must set with back bumper and front bumper within 2" of each other from the ground.
13. Any stock 5 bolt rear end permitted. No rear end protectors. Must use STOCK trailing arms.
14. Tie Rods MAY BE REINFORCED No gas tank protectors. NO AFTERMARKET CENTERS.
15. Factory body bolts may be changed to ½” bolts you must use factory rubber and bushing spacer or there must be a 1 “ gap between body and frame. DO NOT SMASH FACTORY MOUNTS FLAT MUST HAVE 1” GAP. YOU MAY ALSO USE ½ ALL-THREAD FOR YOUR CORE SUPPORT MOUNT. THIS MOUNT MUST MAINTAIN A 1" SPACE. NO WELDING IS PERMITTED TO DO THIS.
16. You may have a bar in the dash area and a bar behind the seat with bars connecting the dash and rear bar on each side. Side bars must be inside of car not inside of doors. Roll over bar is REQUIRED. 2 down legs permitted, but must only go to the sheet metal on the floor. they must also go in the middle of the the driver side and passenger side door from the side bar to the sheet metal on the floor only. No bigger than 4” in diameter bars and you can use a ¼” X 6” X 6” plate to attach bars to the sheet metal MUST HAVE A 5" SPACE FROM DASH BAR TO FIREWALL AND TUNNEL
17. Angles for cross member can't be longer than 5" and must be within 12" from factory location.
18. NO FRAME WELDING. You may weld the bumper to the bumper shock there must be at least a 1“ gap between bumper and frame Must use the factory shocks. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE BUMPER SHOCKS YOU MAY WELD THE BUMPER TO THE END OF YOUR FRAME HORNS, YOU MAY NOT USE ANY EXTRA METAL TO MOUNT YOUR BUMPER, YOU MUST ONLY USE A SINGLE PASS OF WELD THAT CAN NOT EXCEED 1" WIDE. YOU ALSO MAY NOT SHORTEN THE FRAME AT ALL, (I DONT CARE IF THE FRAME HORN IS NOT A SQUARE LEVEL MOUNTING SURFACE.) Any factory car bumper will be permitted no loading or plating of bumper permitted. No tilting OR COLD BENDING of frames will be permitted NO WELDING TO FRAME IS PERMITTED

18A. YOU MAY USE A PIECE 4”X4”X1/4” THICK SQUARE TUBING FOR A FRONT BUMPER. THIS PIECE MUST BE HAVE NO POINT, MUST BE STRAIGHT ACROSS, YOU MAY NOT CAP THE ENDS(MUST BE OPEN TO SEE THRU), AND MAY NOT HAVE ANY BRACING OF ANY KIND INSIDE OR OUT.
19. Trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
20. Original gas tank must be removed and replaced with a METAL boat-type tank or fuel cell. Moved inside of car behind driver's seat but no further back than rear axle. Batteries must be moved to passenger side floor board and securely fastened.
21. Only aftermarket parts that are permitted is a shifter, stacks, Tie rods ENDS, and steering column, gas pedal AND BRAKE PEDAL. Floor mount pedals CAN NOT BE A BRAKE/ GAS PEDAL COMBO. You may also run a slider shaft. TRANSMISSION COOLER MAY BE MOVED INSIDE BUT CAN NOT BE FAN OR BOX TYPE. (MUST BE ATTACHED TO DASH BAR AND COOLER ONLY)
22. Doubled tires permitted weld in centers are ok no rim guards or protectors of any kind.
23. YOU MAY USE 2- 4X6X1/4 PLATES ON A PRE RAN. FRAME MUST SHOW DAMAGE.24. YOU ALSO CLIP A PRE RAN CAR. FRAME MUST BE BUT WELDED WITH NO EXTRA METAL ADDED. YOU MAY NOT GRIND WELDS WHER FRAME WAS CLIPPED. YOU MUST ALSO HAVE A 1/2'' HOLE WITH IN 4 INCHES OF WHERE FRAME WAS CLIPPED IN FRONT AND BEHIND THE WELD.

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100 cars and I'll make the overall mad-dog $2000. 75 cars it will be $1000