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Post by cowboy on Mar 2, 2017 15:24:38 GMT -5
So I'm building a light weld car. I'm torn between stock cups or a hardnose.
For the rules in the nose:
I can weld A Arms forward
I can run a tranny brace and lower cradle, but the rules are written to ensure the tranny brace will just be there for the tranny, not a kicker.
I'm running a fresh 74 on the front.
Also I can weld A Arms for height, maximum height is 21" to the bottom of the bumper.
I'm leaning towards cups, but just double checking to see what others may think.
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Post by klicky96 on Mar 2, 2017 16:52:11 GMT -5
Both. Trim the shock, weld it flush with the horn, weld bumper solid.
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Post by dirtydeeds on Mar 2, 2017 19:52:58 GMT -5
Hardnosed shortened frame with bumper shocks. And the only reason is because you're welding it a-arms forward. With this there's less leverage to nose as quickly.
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Post by dirtydeeds on Mar 2, 2017 20:19:27 GMT -5
So I'm building a light weld car. I'm torn between stock cups or a hardnose. For the rules in the nose: I can weld A Arms forward I can run a tranny brace and lower cradle, but the rules are written to ensure the tranny brace will just be there for the tranny, not a kicker. I'm running a fresh 74 on the front. Also I can weld A Arms for height, maximum height is 21" to the bottom of the bumper. I'm leaning towards cups, but just double checking to see what others may think. Pmd you. |
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Post by STROMI 121 on Mar 2, 2017 20:59:28 GMT -5
Hardnosed every single time its allowed for me. There is not even a debate in my mind. The only exception is older Fords, but I don't run those. JMO
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Post by klicky96 on Mar 2, 2017 21:13:00 GMT -5
See, where I run, I'm allowed a 10" piece of 2x2x1/4" tube in replacement of the bumper shock. So I weld my tube in solid but let it stick out about a quarter inch, cut a square out of my bumper plate, slide it over the tube, weld it solid, then hard-nosed my bumper to that.
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Post by 3sasquach on Mar 2, 2017 21:18:37 GMT -5
Both. Trim the shock, weld it flush with the horn, weld bumper solid. This... |
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Post by dirtydeeds on Mar 2, 2017 22:12:08 GMT -5
See, where I run, I'm allowed a 10" piece of 2x2x1/4" tube in replacement of the bumper shock. So I weld my tube in solid but let it stick out about a quarter inch, cut a square out of my bumper plate, slide it over the tube, weld it solid, then hard-nosed my bumper to that. Shhhhhh.!!! Damnt there's some things you need to be quiet about! |
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Post by smashincwa on Mar 2, 2017 22:31:49 GMT -5
Both. Trim the shock, weld it flush with the horn, weld bumper solid. This, but also pull the shock and trim it, then put the shock in the frame and have the plate flush, weld it to the trimmed cup and frame, then solid mount the bumper to the shock mount. Now you have a shock within the frame just in case it wants to bend funny there and should still be legal with the rules you described. |
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noser23x
Feature Winner
R.W.C.
Posts: 1,969
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Post by noser23x on Mar 3, 2017 7:23:31 GMT -5
Have peeled cups in half on bumper welded just to cups. Not tore where welded, tore the metal on cups. I now know how to fix that, but no need. I agree with above. Hardnose and use cups as extra. Or another shock/bracket in its place. That being said to much in front of a arms will just make it go quicker behind.
And if your worried about bumper height, different spindles can help or you can gain some by cutting interference points out of a arm.
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Post by cowboy on Mar 5, 2017 18:09:29 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice everyone!
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