2017 Crash Fest Express Points Schedule & Rules

[Vern N. 09]

🏁 2017 Crash Fest Express Points Series:

Hello,

I am pleased to share with you our schedule for our 2017 full size limited weld cars points series. The following below listed shows have committed to our points series.

Also thanks to Postal Mopar for sponsoring a weld on HD pad kit with upper ears.

Thank you to Brian of Nerat Demo for sponsoring a steel transmission tail shaft.

Last thank you to derbyparts.com for sponsoring a pair of weld in wheel centers and a set of lower HD motor mounts.

Crash Fest Express will continue to work for more sponsored items to give to top competitors at the conclusion of the series. See below schedule:

2017 Crash Fest Express Points Series:

1. Tuesday 6-13-17 Nebraskaland Days in North Platte, NE $6000 Purse.
2. Friday 7-7-17: Stockville, NE at 7:30 PM: $6000 purse.
3. Saturday 7-22-17 at 7:30 PM. Beaver City, NE $6000 purse.
4. Friday 8-4-17 Oberlin, KS
5. Friday 8-5-17 in Eustis, NE $6500 purse
6. Thursday 8-17-17 in Imperial, NE $8000 purse.
7. Saturday 8-19-17 in Maxwell, NE $7000 purse and this will be the points Finale.

2017 Points Payout (Points purse could be increased):

1. $1000(photo plaque)
2. $500
3. $250

The 2017 Crash Fest
Express Promotions Points Rules:

• You can compete in any or all of the 7 demos to earn points for the competition (we recommend running all 7 if possible to improve you chances in the points).
• The limited weld cars derby points series demos are: Nebraskaland Days, Stockville, Beaver City, Oberlin, Eustis, Imperial and finale in Maxwell.
• You don’t have to pay to enter the point’s, just pay your entry fee at the demos you choose to run and you will automatically be entered into the points series competition with no additional fees.
• You will automatically earn 10 points for each show you compete in.
• You will earn an additional 2 points if you compete in a heat race and the consolation round but do not make the feature.
• You will earn an additional 3 points for competing in a heat race and qualify for the feature and 1 additional point per place advanced in the feature.
• You will receive 3 bonus points if you win any or all of the features at our shows.
• New for 2017 you will receive 5 bonus points for mad dog award.

Thanks,
Vern

[Vern N. 09]

11/1/2016 11:30 PM

Blue wording indicates new or revised wording for 2017:


Crash Fest Express Promotions 2017 King of the Ring &
County Fair Limited-Weld Car Build Rules


Disclaimer to car builders and drivers: IF IT DOES NOT SAY YOU CAN DO IT WITHIN THESE RULES, DO NOT DO IT. PLEASE CALL FIRST. ALL CARS FOUND TO BE ILLEGAL WILL NEED TO BE CORRECTED TO PASS OFFICIALS INSPECTION, CARS THAT DO NOT PASS INSPECTION WILL NOT RUN AND HAVE TO BE LOADED.

FULL SIZE CAR CLASS ONLY:

A. Any Car, Age or Model may be entered as long as it is not a Pickup, Truck, El Camino, Ranchero, Flower Car, Convertible, Van, SUV, Ambulance, Hearse, Limousine, Sedagon, pre 1974 Imperial car or pre 74 Imperial frame, 1970 or older Lincoln, Suicide Lincoln or 2003 or newer Ford. 98-02 Fords cars are allowed with very specific package tray conversion rules that must be met and explained below.


1. CAR PREPARATION
A. All flammable material located in the interior of car such as the dash, head liner, seats, door panels, insulation and carpet must be removed.

B. All glass must be removed from the car including the headlights, side glass, front and rear glass, tail lights, and all broken glass must be removed.

C. The original fuel tank must be removed. A metal container or plastic fuel cell will need to be located in the interior of the car, the tank must be mounted in the back seat area (mounting the fuel cell up off the floor to the seat bar is highly recommended). Do not bolt the fuel cell to any frame or unibody components, must be floor sheet metal tin only. If you choose to use a plastic container it must be a fuel cell, PLASTIC OR STEEL GAS CANS WILL NOT BE ALLOWED, IT MUST BE SAFE. No creative tanks to reinforce the car allowed, period. Plastic fuel cells must be protected in a steel container on all 4 sides except for the top side. All fuel cells must be covered to prevent the splashing of fuel in the car (rubber inner tube or other non-flammable material is highly recommended for a fuel cell cover). 8 gallons of gasoline fuel cell will be the maximum permitted size. The fuel cell must not leak. (No Exceptions). All fuel lines located in the interior of the car must be covered for your safety. (No Exceptions, Officials decision is final).

C2. GAS TANK PROTECTION: For your safety a gas tank protector will be allowed and must be mounted to the rear seat bar/halo bar only and the protector or fuel tank may not extend any closer than 4” from rear seat tin directly below and ahead of the original speaker deck location. Also no part of the protector can be any closer than 12” from the inside edge of inner door panel on either rear door or body sheet metal. Vertical bars extending straight upward towards the roof and not angled will be allowed but may not be any taller than 8” and must not be taller than the original speaker deck location. The GTP may surround the gas tank on the back and sides only. The GTP must not exceed 4”x4” square, round or c channel material. Do not pound the sheet metal from its stock location near this gas tank protector or the gas tank protector will have to be removed. Anything that does not fall within the above described gas tank protector rule will have to be changed.

C3. Pre-ran cars may not reposition their GTP, add to it or alter it any way from how it was on the car fresh or this will result in an automatic load. We will visually inspect to see if the pre-ran car has bent. Officials decision will be final.

D. All chrome, pot metal, door and window handles must be removed from the interior and exterior of car. A pad on the inside of driver’s door for protection is highly recommended.

E. The battery must be re-located to the inside passenger side on the front floor. THE BATTERY BOX MUST BE SECURELY FASTENED TO THE FLOOR TIN ONLY WITH BOLTS OR WELDING AND MUST BE IN A METAL CONTAINER, wood or plastic battery containers will not be allowed for the battery box. Battery must be covered with rubber inner tube or other non-flammable material. Do not bolt or weld box through the frame, cross member or body washer.

F. After market Transmission coolers may be used and must be mounted inside the car (transmission coolers must be safe) and must be securely bolted or welded to the floor tin or seat bar only. All transmissions coolers and lines in the interior of the car must be covered with non-flammable material. Do not bolt or weld cooler through the frame, around the frame, cross member or body washer.
(Officials decision is final).

G. After market or homemade floor shifters may be used.

H. The engine cooling system (radiator) must remain in stock position and the heater core is to be disconnected or completely removed. One skin of Original body tin may be used to cover heater core access holes or rubber. No water barrels allowed or any other types of auxiliary engine cooling allowed.

I. A driver’s safety belt is mandatory and must be in working order. A 5-point harness and racing seat is allowed. For safety a ¼” plate under your driver’s seat is highly recommended to prevent axles and debris from entering the car body below driver’s seat and spearing the driver. This seat plate must be bolted to floor tin only, no welding and must not be bolted to frame, body washer or cross member and do not connect this plate to any other plates such as brake or gas pedal plates as they must be two separate pieces. A Fire suit or fire jacket and pants are required, a DOT approved helmet with face shield is also required and Safety glasses are highly recommended for eye protection. If you do not meet these requirements it will be at the organization’s discretion if you will be allowed to run without this required safety equipment.

J. Your factory upper A arms may be chained down on uppers A’s only, no bolts or welding straps from A arms to frames. Torsion bars may be tightened. Cars must have a bounce in the front and rear suspension. (NO SOLID SUSPENSION on the rear of cars)

K. Solid rubber or foam filled tires are allowed, along with valve stem protection. 1” oversized lug nuts are allowed. 8” weld in wheel centers max are allowed on 5 lug rears with no other rim reinforcements. These 8” wheel centers will be measured from the center of the hub/axle and must not exceed more than 4” inches in diameter from these either these locations. 8 lug rears may have a 9” weld in center. No bead lock, other rim reinforcement or full disc wheel centers will be allowed.


L. Must be able to open hood for tech inspection. Hood must remain in stock location and must be the stock hood that came with the car body type. Excess front fenders may be pre-bent and bolted to the radiator core support and inner fender in the front corners with a maximum of four 3/8” bolts per front fender. Excess front hood may be folded over if there is any excess hood to fold. Hood cut outs will be subject to a max of 12 3/8” bolts total per hood not per cut out.

M. Changing of rear ends is allowed but must follow these rules. Hybrid axles are allowed, pinion brake and axle savers are allowed. Weld in wheel centers are allowed on rims but may not exceed 8” in diameter. Rear ends may have bracing on the rear-end housing but may not strategically reinforce the frame/car or the bracing will be cut. Rear-end must be a single wheel rear end and 8 lug rear-ends will be allowed with a maximum sized 15” tire only.

N. Rear Factory upper and lower Control arms on coil spring cars may be boxed in and have minimal re-enforcing. You may lengthen or shorten the rear control arms to adjust rear-end pitch, minimal filler material allowed on these rear control arms. All control arms must start out as a stock factory upper and lower control arm for make, model and year of car origin you are running as nothing else will be tolerated. Rear-end mounts on leaf spring cars must remain in stock location but can be adjusted for rear-end pitch.

O. Front and rear wheel wells may be cut and bolted directly above the diameter of the tires with up to a maximum of 6 3/8” bolts in each wheel well on outside of car body only. FENDER TIN MAY NOT BE WELDED, 6 BOLTS ONLY.

P. Two loops of #9 wire behind rear axle housing extending from frame rail to frame rail will be allowed to be braided. Chain or cable will not be allowed. No other #9 wire will be allowed on fresh cars except in your window openings, door and trunk seams as explained in rule # 7B, 7E, 7F and 7G.




1A. FRAME & BODY RULES

A. No frame shaping, no Paint, undercoating, dirt, oil grease, tricks or anything will be allowed on frames. Don’t be surprised if you over spray your frame with paint if we won’t even take the time to look at your car and just load it. This goes for any fresh or PRE-RAN car. NO EXCEPTIONS AND OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL.
B. Frame and car body must be STOCK other than what is specifically allowed in these rules: You will be allowed to weld a total of 12” of factory frame seams anywhere (over humps, ahead of a arms, or behind a arms) with a ½” wide weld bead maximum per frame rail. May only split this into two 6” long beads per frame rail. So use one 12” continuous bead or two 6” beads per rail and no other exceptions. NO OTHER FRAME SEAMS ALLOWED TO BE WELDED. The frame must be the frame that came with year of the car body. No frame or body alterations allowed other than what is allowed in these rules. Frame ahead of core support can be shortened but do not cut frame further back than the front side of your original core support body mount hole. We must be able to see the original mount hole left on frame. Do not move your core support from its original factory position or shorten your front clip. Clip must be the make to model year of car origin. Do not shorten the rear frame as this will not be allowed and will be an automatic load. No frame or body alterations allowed unless year to year, the exact year of the car body must match the exact year design of the car frame. EXAMPLE; 71, 72, and 73 Chevy must be a 71-73 Chevy frame and body, Y-FRAME Mopar must be Y-FRAME type of frame and body. Square body Ford car must be on a square body Ford 80’s frame. Bubble body Ford Body must be on a Bubble body Ford frame. Buick body to Buick frame, caddy body to caddy frame and etc. No other exception will be allowed.
C.
Frame tilting is allowed but must be frame tilted at fire wall body mount area only. If you choose to tilt the frame you do not get more than 12” of frame welding after you cut with a ½” wide weld bead maximum. If you cut, tilt and weld a frame no other frame seam welding allowed. If you choose to cold bend than the 12” of seam welding may be used elsewhere. Cold bend or tilt in one location per frame rail only. Do not play games with this rule or you will be loaded, period. OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL.

D. Absolutely no re-stubbing of frames front, back or middle. The entire car frame must be of its original stock origin for the year make and model of your car you are running. No other exceptions.
E. 98-02 Ford cars, may convert package tray. May only take a factory 1979-1997 Ford car package tray to replace the 98-02 tray for your upper trailing arm mounts. You must leave a 2” wide strip of the original 98-02 factory tray on the frame over the entire distance of the frame hump as it was from the factory. Do not re-weld this original strip to the frame. The width of this strip will be measured from the inside edge of the frame rail hump area towards the spring bucket. May only weld the converted tray to this 2” existing tray with no filler material and not to the frame. May only overlap the new tray a 1/2” over the existing tray, one pass of weld bead 1/4” bead max. The lower trailing arm frame mounts may only be cut off a 1979-1997 Ford car and re-welded back on to the frame in the original factory location and manner. This must be ¼” weld bead max and one pass, with no filler material allowed. Absolutely no homemade-mounts. Original Watts brackets must be cut from the frame, do not grind or paint where you have cut the original lower brackets, we must be able to see where you cut them off. No other rear package tray conversions will be excepted. No funny business on this as nothing else will be tolerated.


F. No welding of or bolting non factory or factory gussets or frame components to the frame that did not exist as original OEM.

G. Do not add body mounts to the frame that did not exist from the factory (except the speaker deck provisional body isolator as explained below in rule 4D (2 speaker deck bolts only).

H. Body creasing is allowed. Do not weld, wire, bolt or screw the body crease and no other exceptions.
I. Trunks and tail gates on fresh cars and wagons may either be tucked with the 50/50 rule or wedged as explained below but not both. 50% of lid has to remain in stock location if you tuck. The tuck will be measured from the front most seam to the first rear seam to determine the 50/50 rule. If you wedge your trunk lid it may be beat down. Nothing that is torn away from stock location can be welded or bolted back. A 12" inspection hole will have to be cut in the top of trunk lid for inspection and rear quarters must remain in 100% stock location if you choose a wedge. Wedged sedans and hard tops must have nothing bolted or welded from the deck lid to the floor pan or frame other than your 2 sticks of all thread. No wedging wagons and No Sedagons either!



2. ENGINES & TRANSMISSIONS
A. Any V8, V6 or straight 6-cylinder engine allowed in any car as stated allowed above and must be mounted in stock location. The stock engine mounts may only be welded to the OEM engine cross member located directly below the crankshaft pulley or engine oil pan. You may weld up to a 2" wide strap by 6 inches long and up to 1/4” thick above rubber part of motor mount on motor down to engine cross member not frame to make them solid. The engine may also be chained loosely to the frame for a secondary mount to help hold the motor in place. This chain may have one link welded to top side of frame only or looped once around the frame and bolted only with no added metal or plate to mount the chain to the frame (the chain links may not be welded together to create a kicker bar). This secondary chain may only be mounted in four locations from the engine to the frame. No other means of mounting an engine will be allowed (Officials decision is final). Pulley protectors will be allowed but may not reinforce the car’s frame in any manner. Do not weld pulley protector to sway bar or cross member. Official’s decision of pulley protector will be final. Do not alter the location of your sway bar or change your sway bar as it must be the bar that came with the make, model and year of car origin that you are running.

B. Engine cradles may be mounted to an engine and must not have any form of distributor protector on the cradle or engine. Engine cradles may be bolted with two ¾” bolts maximum to the OEM cross member or the engine cradle may be welded at the OEM engine cross member directly below the crankshaft pulley (DO NOT WELD CRADLE TO THE FRAME RAILS).

C. Mid plates will be allowed but the mid plate must not be any taller than 3” from the contour of your original transmission bell housing and engine block bolts at the back of the engine. Absolutely no kickers will be allowed.

D. After market starters, ignition, air cleaners, fans, headers and radiators are allowed. Home-made radiators or any form of radiator protector will not be allowed. Fuel lines need to be protected and mounted in a safe location and any car running an electric fuel pump must have an on/off switch wire to it.



E. Transmissions must be mounted in the stock location. Aluminum Ultra-bell transmission bell housings allowed as long as it does not have brackets connecting to the engine or frame in any location. No homemade aluminum ultra-bells as it must be a stock JW and etc. aftermarket purchased aluminum ultra-bell only. Transmission tail shaft may be secured with #9 wire, chain, bolts or ratchet straps only looped or bolted around the tail shaft to the cross member only. Transmission cross member either has to be the stock OEM cross member that came with the year, make and model of car or it can be replaced with a maximum of a 2”x2”x1/4” cross member. If the non-factory cross member is used it must be located in the OEM factory position of the year, make and model of car. Also if the non-factory cross member is used you must have a ½” pilot hole in the bottom side of the 2x2 on each side of the tranny for us to gauge thickness. If there is not a pilot hole prior to inspection, we will cut up to a 1” hole at the inspection trailer with our torch. One or the other of the above cross member choices may be used not both. One of the above choice of cross members may be mounted to a single piece of angle iron that is to be welded to the frame in the OEM factory cross member mounting location consisting of a 4” long max and 2”x2”x1/4” angle iron welded to the frame per side. One angle iron cross member mount only per frame rail may be used and must meet above specs and must not be welded to the frame any closer than 6” from the center of the firewall body mount hole measured rearward.

J. No steel bells or transmission protection braces allowed. No skid plates allowed, if you show up with a skid plate you came to the wrong show and will be loaded. However, if you would like to take your original tranny pan off and weld a 1/8” thick piece of flat metal to the bottom only to prevent the spearing of the pan from debris on the track this will be allowed only if it conforms to the bottom side of the pan and does not exceed the perimeter of the OEM pan. Metal added to the vertical surfaces of the pan will not be tolerated. No homemade tranny pans and NO OTHER EXCEPTIONS WILL BE ALLOWED FOR THIS.

H. You are allowed two 4” long by 2” wide by 2” tall by 1/4” thick angle irons per frame rail on top side of frame in the engine compartment with the angle facing up. This angle iron may be used to mount your 4 engine safety chains to and has to be located with one ahead of the a-arm and one behind the a-arm per frame rail and not to exceed 4” behind the engine block (measured from the rear of the heads). The angle iron ahead of the engine block may be mounted anywhere on the top side of the frame with the angle up between the A Arm and radiator core support. This angle has to be mounted ahead or behind the engine block and not anywhere in between and must look like an L.





4. BODY MOUNTS MUST BE IN CARS
A. The front two radiator mounts may be removed and have up to 1” maximum all-thread installed through the frame along each side of the radiator core support to replace these mounts.

B. You must have at least the factory space at the minimum between frame and radiator support (you may remove the factory spacer and replace with a solid spacer but the spacer must be the factory width), radiator support cannot be pulled down contacting the frame without a spacer and no welding radiator support to the frame. Tilted cars will naturally have a taller than factory core support spacer and a max of 2 ½” in diameter x ¼” thick square or round spacer may be used. May only weld this spacer to the top side of the frame and must not be welded to the core support or vertical edges of the frame.

C. Two mounts in rear trunk lid or wagon can be installed with up to 1” all-thread maximum size allowed. These two trunk lid mounts or wagon all thread may go down through the frame and be bolted only. Do not weld these all thread to the frame.

D. For safety all other body mount bolts may be changed with up to 5/8” maximum size bolts and may not go all the way through the frame, just bolted to the factory location inside the frame. These bolts may only replace the original factory bolts. Do not weld body bolts to the frame, body or spacer. Don’t be surprised if we ask you to loosen body bolts to ensure they are not welded to the frame. No adding of body bolts where there were not bolts before, except for 2 extra bolts in the speaker deck above the humps of rear frame rails. These 2 additional bolts may only go through the shock tower area of the frame and car body sheet metal where from the factory on most cars there was only a body isolator but not a body bolt.

E. The body spacers must be at least factory thickness, if original spacer is not useable a ½” minimum thick body spacer that is 2 ½” in diameter max may be used only. Rubber hockey pucks, washers and etc. are all ok. (Welding body spacers to frame and/or body is not allowed).

F. The only bolts allowed to go through the frame completely are the two 1” all thread at the radiator core support and the two 1” all thread going through the trunk lid or wagon roof in the choice of 2 of the back four factory body mount holes in frame.





G. 5” square or round maximum sized washers allowed to the hold body mounts to the interior floor. 5” square or round washer max for all thread hood bolts and trunk lid and wagon all thread bolts as well. Do not weld these body washers to the floor tin, frame or mount any interior brackets to these body washers.

5. DRIVERS DOOR & WINDOW NET
A. A driver’s door window net is allowed for safety (this is optional and a steel window net is highly recommended but not required). The window safety net may only cover the driver’s door window area. This window net must be sheet metal to sheet metal only connecting to the top of the window on the door and the edge of the roof.
B. The driver’s door seams may be completely welded shut for safety on the exterior seams and may not extend more than 6” past driver’s door seam front and back of the door. 4” wide flat strap or ½” rod is the maximum sized allowed for welding driver’s door seams. Sedan cars may weld the driver’s door window bracket to the post/pillar and roof. (Officials decision for safety of the door is final, it must be safe)

6. SAFETY BARS INSIDE CARS
A. 1 bar across dash and 1 behind the driver’s seat securely welded or bolted in place on the ends of dash and seat bar only and extending from door post to door post is required. The dash bar must be 6” from the back most part of the engine. Also must be located 6” above the transmission tunnel. Do not connect the dash bar to the front window safety straps/bars or fire wall. Dash bar may not make contact with the back of the motor or you will be disqualified. Please do not weld the firewall to the dash bar. The rear seat bar should be located directly behind the driver’s seat and welded to the door post no further back than 5” ahead of rear body mount on full frame cars measured from the center of this body bolt. (DO NOT WELD SEAT BAR FURTHER BACK THAN WHAT IS EXPLAINED ABOVE, OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL). These door bars and dash/seat safety bars must be 2” x 2” x ¼” thick square or 2 ½” x ¼” thick round minimum. If you do not use square or round for door bars than you will be allowed to use a minimum of 6” C channel by ¼” thick and a max of 8” by 3/8” thick. These bars may be up to 6” square or round maximum size and must have steel plates welded on the ends of bars to prevent spearing through the door tin. These steel plates may be no larger than 8” square or round on the end of the safety bars. All cage material may only be mounted in the interior of the car, not inside the door or body structure with the exception of the driver’s side. The driver’s door bar only may be mounted inside the door structure to allow more room for the driver and door bar.

B. Additional bars connecting the seat bar to the dash bar along the interior of front driver’s and passenger door are required to be welded in. These door bars must be securely welded in place for safety. You may also weld a single bar from the front side of your seat bar in the center of the car straight forward to the back side of your dash bar and this bar may not be any closer than 6” from the tranny tunnel. This is for your safety and it must be safe.

C. Halo bars are required to extend over the roof or directly under the interior of roof and must be securely welded or bolted to the rear seat bar in a safe manner. Halo bars must extend straight up vertically and may not be angled towards the front or rear. Connecting the halo bars to roof of car directly above the seat bar with up to 6 fasteners maximum that do not extend more than 4” away from either side of the halo bar is highly recommended for safety. Halo bars can be welded down below the seat bar to the top side of frame and no closer than 5” from the center of the back seat body mount on 4 door full frame cars (will be measured straight back from the halo not at an angle) only and must be no further than 6” from rear door jam on 2 door cars.

D. 4 door Mopar cars will not be able to weld their halo bar to the unibody frame as this moves the seat/halo bar too far back. However, 4 door mopar or unibody cars may weld their halo bar to the back seat foot pan floor tin only and ahead of the front most part of the unibody frame. You must have a halo bar deemed safe by the official’s decision and it must fall within these rules or you will not run.

E. No other down bars, chain, wire or cable will be allowed to be looped, bolted or welded to the frame form the cage or any other component. One down bar no closer than 6” behind inner door seam on driver’s side and passenger side to floor tin only may be welded. Must only be max of 2”x2”x1/4” and a maximum of a 4”x4”x1/4” base plate. Just the halo as explained above can be welded to the frame.




7. DOOR FASTENERS
1. Drivers doors can be welded inside and outside seams for safety and may also have outside door brace on the door skin. Outside door brace must be flat steel only and must conform to the shape of the door skin. This door brace may be welded or bolted to the driver door skin (welding is highly recommended). This door brace may not be more than 1/4” thick and must not extend more than 6" ahead or behind door seams max. (No grader blades, round pipe, square tubing or C channel allowed for outside door brace it must be flat metal only.)

A. Drivers door may be welded as explained above and all other doors may have 6” welded on and skip 6” per door seam and window bracket or as explained below.
B. Fasteners can be up to 6” long x 4” wide x 1/8” thick flat strap maximum welded per door seam and skip 6” or 1 loop of chain, 1 bolt or 2 loops of #9 wire in two locations per seam. If you choose the flat strap welding method examples would be: weld 6” and skip 6” and start again with welding 6” and skipping 6” until you are finished. Any one of these methods can be used as a door seam fastener.
C. No extra bolts inside doors.
D. Chains or fasteners must be individual, this means no cross chain or wire in an X pattern, it must be looped only.
E. Chain or double loop of #9 wire may go around the frame and bottom door seam to secure the bottom door seams (bolts are not allowed through the frames).
F. One loop of #9 wire may be braided in two locations per full size side window openings only. Do not run this wire in the front windshield, rear windshield or in the windows that are located in the C Pillars on sedans or hard tops. This wire must be looped through the top of roof sheet metal and the top of door sheet metal only and must run vertically and may not be crossed, X’d or connected to one another in any way shape or form. Sheet metal to sheet metal only and no other exceptions will be allowed.
G. Or the top side of door openings for windows may be hammered down and beat shut but only weld 6” per window opening of weld bead only or wire these shut with the braded #9 wire allowed to be running vertically to the roof in two locations per window but not both.



8. HOOD & HOOD FASTENERS (8 total)
A. Stock hood hinges do not count as 2 fasteners.
B. Front all-thread 1” maximum may go through the frame and hood along radiator core support on each side and is counted as a two fasteners.
C. The other 6 hood hold down bolts must be sheet metal to sheet metal only and a minimum size of 3/4" all-thread only. You may use a 5”x5”x1/4” plate welded in the front corners of core support and fire wall corners under the hood to thread your hood bolts too. Or a 3”x12”x1/4” strap in the corners to thread your hood bolts to. Bolt may only be welded vertically to this plate for a more secure hood bolt mount. This was originally intended for cars that did not have inner fenders, or only had plastic inner fenders and now all cars may do this.
D. Plates may be used as washers on the top side of the hood for hood bolt down bolts. The maximum size of hood washer or plate is 6”x6” on all eight hood hold down bolts.
E. You may weld a 5” long piece of 3”x3”x1/4” thick angle iron to the hood and fender in place of all thread. These angle irons must be welded the top side of hood and fender only. These two pieces of angle iron may be bolted shut with a maximum of one 3/4” bolt per angle iron bracket and this method counts as one hood fastener. You may use 6 angle iron mounts, stock hinges and two all thread at radiator support (8 fasteners total allowed) or 8 all thread and stock hinges with not angle iron (8 fasteners total as well). Use any of the above explained hood fastener methods but 8 is the maximum allowed per hood.
F. IF YOU CHOOSE THE ANGLE IRON METHOD TO HOLD HOOD SHUT YOU MAY NOT USE A 5” PLATE TOO, JUST ANGLE IRON.

9. TRUNK FASTENERS
A. Two 1" maximum size all-thread may go through trunk lid or wagon roof and frame. Maximum size of trunk/roof all-thread washer or plate is 6”x6”.
B. You may weld 6” of seam with flat strap and skip 6” just like explained on the doors and may only be sheet metal to sheet metal on your trunk seam. Or 1 loop of chain, 1 bolt or 2 loops of #9 wire in two locations per seam
C. Wagon tailgates may be welded shut in the same manner of 6” welded and skip 6” per wagon tail gate seam otherwise must be welded, wired, chained or bolted sheet metal to sheet metal only in 4 wagon seam locations only.
D. Nothing can be connected from the trunk lid or wagon tail gate to the bumper.
E. Decking may not be welded or bolted solid. Must be mounted loosely. Officials decision is final!

10. ALL BUMPERS AND BUMPERS BRACKETS
A. Any non-loaded and non-homemade OEM car bumper is allowed on any car. Front bumpers are allowed on rear and rear bumpers on front of cars. Front bumper brackets may only be used on front of car and rear bumper brackets may only be used on rear of car. Brackets must be in complete stock form and may only be in their OEM stock location. This includes OEM shocks that were mounted in the frame or outside of the frame with no alterations. Bumpers can be welded to brackets and the bracket can be welded to the frame. It must be the bracket that came with either the car or the bracket that came with the bumper and not both. No cutting of brackets or butt welding brackets to the frame to reach 10” of welding or to cover more area. No stretching brackets out and don’t skip a section of welding to strategically reinforce the frame. The bracket must be one continuous piece of bracket. The bracket may only be welded 10” continuously to one exterior side of frame on top and bottom side of the bracket measured from the back side of the front bumper or front edge of the frame towards the A-arm. In addition to this stock factory bracket you get one 4”x10”x1/4” bumper bracket welded with the same rule as explained above to any of the other 3 exterior surfaces of the frame.

You may weld 2 brackets in the same manner to the frame if you are not using factory bumper brackets, shocks and etc. If you weld a factory bracket on the frame than you only get one aftermarket bumper strap added to the frame in addition to the factory OEM bracket. Welding has to be 10” of continuous welding to the frame and bracket only, so do not skip and expect us to count it as 10”. Bumper brackets may be factory bolted but bolts may not go all the way through the frame from frame rail to frame rail (another words no pinning). If a factory bumper bracket exceeds 10” in length DO NOT WELD FURTHER THAN 10” as explained above. Welding the bumper directly to the frame is allowed along with the above explained usage of bumper brackets and bumper bracket strap.
B. Bumper chrome may be beat down and welded to the backing of the bumper to help preserve the bumpers life. One layer of excess bumper chrome may be welded to bumpers to cover vent and blinker holes. We need to see in bumpers so leave us an area to see in so we don’t have to make you cut a hole for inspection. We do not want loaded bumpers in this class.


C. No homemade bumpers. Some bumpers will need repairs after being bent from use and straightened out. If and only if we see the need for the repairs, we will allow a 2” wide strap by ¼” thick to be used as a repair on the exterior of the bumper. This will only be allowed on the top, bottom or rear side of the bumper and I must see a photo of this needed repair. No repair strap will be allowed on the front side of the bumper.
D. Rear bumpers and factory bumper brackets may also be welded to the rear frame in the OEM mounting location, do not exceed 10” as explained above.
E. All trailer hitch and towing devices must be removed from cars including the brackets and other material that held the hitch in place.
F. No loaded bumpers allowed.
G. Do not weld the bumper to the body on fresh or pre-ran cars.



11. LEAF SPRING CARS
A. Leaf springs must be in original OEM stock springs and location as mounted to the housing and the car. 6 spring clamps per side. These leaf spring clamps may be up to 3” wide flat strap or angle iron by 1/4” thick and up to 3 ahead of the axle and 3 behind the axle.
B. No wrapping springs with tape, wire, etc.11/4/2015
C. Some cars came with 9 leafs others came with 7 leaf springs and many only came with 5. Seven leafs is the maximum number allowed for this class. All leaf springs must be stock car OEM springs for the year, make and model of the car you built. You can add leaf springs to the stack to get to 7 and these additional leaf springs must stager at least two inches shorter than the leaf directly above it for a total of 7 leaf springs. No leaf springs may be mounted on top of main leaf. You must use the original shackles for the main leaf. You may change your leaf spring mounts at rear end to not exceed 12” in length on each leaf pack and must be re-welded in the stock location.
D. If your car came with more than 7 leafs it will have to be changed to a maximum of 7 total as explained above. No Exceptions!
E. Coil spring cars are not permitted to convert to leaf springs.
F. Car must have a moving suspension. No solid suspension allowed.

12. REAR COIL SPRINGS
A. May be fastened on each end (wire, chain and hose clamps only). No all thread.
B. Coil springs may be doubled with rear coil OEM springs only for that year, make, and model of car.
C. Rear coil spring mounts may exceed no higher than 6” vertically from the rear end to help the spring stay in the spring pocket.
D. Car must have a moving suspension. No solid suspension allowed.


13. REAR SHOCKS
A. Must be OEM car shocks, not truck. Shocks must be mounted in stock location. You may also use chain up to 3/8” maximum size from the shock tower to the rear end and the chain may be looped and bolted one time around the rear end housing. This chain has to be mounted in the original stock shock location or as close to where the shock is mounted to the rear-end as possible. This chain cannot be looped around the frame and may only be bolted to the shock tower/package tray near the original location of the shock. This chain is designed to help in the event the shock breaks or if there is no shock. No all thread for shocks and there must be a rear bounce. No solid rear suspension allowed (OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL).
B. If shocks are to be used they must be OEM car type shocks that would have come with the year make and model of the car. Home-made shocks or truck shocks will not be allowed. No all thread or any other form of shock.

14. TIRES AND WHEELS
A. Wheels may have valve stem protectors and over sized lug nuts are allowed.
B. TIRES ARE UNLIMITED- any ply, meaning fork lift, tractor tire, skid steer tire and double side wall are all ok.
C. 15" tires maximum.
D. All wheel weights must be removed from the rims before running. Weld in wheel centers are allowed on rims but may not exceed 8” in total diameter. Solid rubber or foam filled tires are allowed, along with valve stem protection. 1” oversized lug nuts are allowed. 8” weld in wheel centers max are allowed on 5 lug rears and 9” on 8 lug with no other rim reinforcements. These 8” wheel centers will be measured from the center of the hub/axle and must not exceed more than 4” inches in diameter from these either these locations. No bead lock or full disc wheel centers will be allowed.

14.B STEERING COMPONENTS:

1. Stock steering components such as tie rods, A arms, spindles, rotors, spindle brackets and ball joints will need to remain stock of the OEM make of car origin to match your car.
2. Stock Tie rods may be welded in the adjustable sleeve area with weld bead only and no biller material.
3. After market steering columns will be allowed to be used.
4. Upper A arms may have a chain looped over the top side on coil spring cars only. This chain must not exceed 12” in length and or ½” thickness. This chain may have only one full link welded to the frame and upper A Arm on each side of upper A Arm front and back. If you would like to split this chain into two 6” long pieces so you have one for the front and back of A arm this will be allowed as long as only one chain link is welded to the A arm and frame on front and back side. Do not cut link, stretch it and weld it to gain more welding to frame or A arm.



15. ALL CARS MUST HAVE ROOFTOP NUMBERS
A. One 12"x12" roof sign with your driver number is mandatory; must be securely fastened to top of car (you may cut a 12” hole in the roof and bend it up to use for a roof sign but must be behind the halo bar). If we see that your roof sign has been strategically placed or manufactured to reinforce the car you will be asked to remove it. Official’s decision is final.

16. WINDSHIELD BARS (2 Bars/Straps)
A. For your safety these bars are required to prevent the car hood from entering the interior of the car. These two bars must be either welded or bolted from the top of the roof down to the fire wall in the front windshield opening and may not make contact with the dash bar or the motor (sheet metal to sheet metal only). These Bars/Straps may not exceed 4” strap or 2” round or square. Do not weld these bars to the dash bar.

17. CARS MUST BE STOCK OTHER THAN WHAT WAS REGULATED AS ABOVE AND SPECIFICALLY ALLOWED BELOW:
A. Any after market drive shaft will be allowed as long as it does not strategically re-enforce the car (Officials decision will be final, no exceptions).
B. After market brakes will be allowed as long as the brakes do not strategically re-enforce the car (Officials decision will be final, no exceptions).

18. FRAME REPAIRS

A. You will be allowed to repair frames on used cars that have previously ran in demo action and frames that have clearly suffered frame damage. The frame must have clear visible damage to the official before it will be allowed to run with any repair plates welded to the frame. You may use a maximum of four 1/8” thick plates with a 1” inspection hole centered per frame repair plate and the plate must not be more than 6” long by 5” tall. Four plates per frame rail are the maximum and 8 per car maximum. Do not weld the 1” inspection hole shut and you may only weld the 4 outer edges of the repair plate. NO PLUG WELDED REPAIR PLATES. You may not have 5 on one side of frame 3 on the other. 4 per frame rail total. No creasing or shaping repair plates, must be a flat plate. However, it may catch more than one surface of the frame. No doubling of repair plate. (OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL, NO EXCEPTIONS).
B. Do not weld the one-inch inspection hole in the center of the repair plate. You may only weld the outside four edges of this repair plate. NO PLUG WELDED REPAIR PLATES.
C. No repair plates on fresh cars unless allowed for a specific show.
D. #9 wire as a repair will be allowed on pre-ran cars only. Do not over kill your use of wire or it will be cut, it must be a legitimate need for its use in the officials’ eyes and mind.
E. Body tin repair on pre-ran cars, must use OEM body tin to weld over tears and cannot overlap door seams and etc. We must have a picture of the body tin you need to repair first.
F. Rust repairs: You must call first whether it’s a body or frame rust repair. We need to see it to believe it and if approved we will explain specifically how it can be repaired. No call on this will force you to cut the repair off.





ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL MEANING: IF YOU OR YOUR PIT CREW WANT TO CHOOSE TO ARGUE WITH ANY OF THE JUDGES BEFORE, DURING OR AFTER THE DERBY YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED AND POSSIBLY ESCORTED OUT OF THE EVENT. THIS IS A FAMILY EVENT AND YOU MUST BE RESPECTFUL AT ALL TIMES.


Disclaimer to car builders and drivers: IF IT DOES NOT SAY YOU CAN DO IT WITHIN THESE RULES, DO NOT DO IT. ALL CARS FOUND TO BE ILLEGAL WILL NEED TO BE CORRECTED TO PASS OFFICIALS INSPECTION, CARS THAT DO NOT PASS INSPECTION WILL NOT RUN AND HAVE TO BE LOADED.

If you are in doubt please call before you build

Matt “Vern” Newcomb
Crash Fest Express Promotions
Eustis, NE
308-785-7300

[Vern N. 09]

2017 Crash Fest Points standings after demo #1 Nebraskaland Days:

Ethan Johnson. 25 points
Shelby Schroeder. 21
Andrew Dailey. 20
Dustin Fischer. 19
Paul Niles. 19(earned 5 bonus for mad dog)
Dylan Koranda. 18
Justin Nitsch. 17
Josh Schultz. 16
Tony Ballard. 15
Jack Decent. 13
Casey Koranda. 12
Nolan Horak. 12
Donald Hunt. 12
JT Beck. 12
Justin Wood. 10
Justin Clause. 10
Nathan Araujo. 10
Brad Layher. 10


Up next is Points demo #2 in Stockville on 7-7-17 at 7:30 pm.

Thank you,