|
|
Post by seventyonehemicuda on Sept 11, 2016 14:43:23 GMT -5
I'm starting a build for a derby that has pretty specific/tight stock rule build... however the drivers cage is pretty much a free for all, Im not so sure i could get away with kickers to the sub, maybe kickers that bolt to the floor area above the sub, any ideas on using the cage to strengthen the car? my build is a 2 door shocker nyer but this could apply to pretty much any Mopar.
Outer door bars (channel iron) is allowed on the outside of the doors, I plan to bolt the inner cage to the outer channel iron, weld the inside bars to the door jams, dash bar, and at least 1 beam that crosses behind the seat and ties both sides together, as well as a b-pillar roll bar. should a guy be welding the door seams? should i put "spacers" inside the void of the doors between the outer channel and inner cage? any ideas (smart or stupid) any shared experience would be greatly appreciated.
|
|
seven1seven
Heat Winner
demolition derby.... its a way of life!
Posts: 984
|
Post by seven1seven on Sept 11, 2016 19:48:14 GMT -5
Utilize the body as much as possible! Unibody cars have the most strength in body.. look for structure tubes and bracing to tie in to the cage... if you cant weld straight to the sub then make a plate that bolts to the back sub mount under seat and weld a down bar to it, use geometry angles to your advantage!
Notch the door posts and weld the door bars into the posts, same with dash bar and notch roof structure and insert halo uprights into the roof structure. I have pics of some healthy cages ive built for mopars but cant post them on here from my phone.
|
|
mopar17
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,498
|
Post by mopar17 on Sept 11, 2016 20:27:43 GMT -5
If it was more of a mod show I could see where you were headed with the cage. But in all honesty the other parts of the car aren't going to be hard enough to need it strong in the doors and floor. Just my opinion of course.
|
|
|
|
Post by seventyonehemicuda on Sept 11, 2016 22:16:50 GMT -5
Ive got a semi- flat stack set of rear leafs clamped solid, so the rear is pretty solid or at least i think it is... the front end is what needs the help, just need to figure a way to stop the sub from bending at the fire wall. kickers would be ideal, just need them not to be kickers, if that makes any sense. im running a lower cradle and transmission brace/protector, so that may help take some of the load off the frame. just scrounging for any ideas.
|
|
|
|
Post by Luke Wells on Sept 12, 2016 1:42:15 GMT -5
Are you running a DP? And how far off the firewall/trans tunnel can the cage be?
|
|
|
|
Post by seventyonehemicuda on Sept 12, 2016 23:18:23 GMT -5
No DP's interior cage is pretty much a free for all, drivers allowed to make it as "safe" as they feel is necessary. I like running big blocks so the dist is up front. I might be able get away with a plate behind the heads against the firewall, refer to it as a lifting plate? maybe.
|
|
|
|
Post by chevykillerx13 on Sept 14, 2016 4:00:13 GMT -5
I like to think running the halo totally on the inside of a mopar helps it better than going out and over. Especially if you weld/ u bolt it to the roof.
|
|
|
|
Post by triplerracer on Sept 14, 2016 21:44:34 GMT -5
I like to think running the halo totally on the inside of a mopar helps it better than going out and over. Especially if you weld/ u bolt it to the roof. Can you elaborate more on your thinking and why you think on the inside is better? not seeing what your thinking! |
|
owen11x
Feature Winner
Ford makes it, Chevy shakes it, Mopar breaks it!
Posts: 2,585
|
Post by owen11x on Sept 14, 2016 23:15:57 GMT -5
Harder to push halo down when cars bellied out rather than pulling some bolts when your bolted thru the halo. All about dispersing In that situation
|
|
|
|
Post by chevykillerx13 on Sept 15, 2016 5:10:19 GMT -5
I like to think running the halo totally on the inside of a mopar helps it better than going out and over. Especially if you weld/ u bolt it to the roof. Can you elaborate more on your thinking and why you think on the inside is better? not seeing what your thinking! Well, mainly to reinforce the structure. Granted, you aren't making/taking hits to the roof, but let's say you've got an average flat bumper and some square tubing. Does the bumper become stronger with the tubing on the outside or the inside? But, with the halo on the inside kind of bolsters the structural strength. Maybe not by a lot, but the way I see it, the roof will maintain its form better, maybe I'm talking nonsense, but if nothing else, it would protect in a roll over or when someone ends up on top of your car better. |
|
lincoln
Feature Winner
Posts: 3,176
|
Post by lincoln on Sept 15, 2016 10:51:12 GMT -5
If it's bolted/welded to the roof what's the difference?
|
|
mopar17
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,498
|
Post by mopar17 on Sept 15, 2016 12:34:30 GMT -5
I'm the opposite, I'd rather have it up and over.....
|
|
demoboy333
Feature Winner
Enter your message here...
Posts: 3,124
|
Post by demoboy333 on Sept 15, 2016 15:28:05 GMT -5
I like cutting holes in roof an dropping halo in through top weld to heavy seat bar. Then when u weld doors shut connect the door plates to the cage. So it has to move it all to bend.
|
|
