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Post by 383 Sonoma on Apr 8, 2016 11:50:05 GMT -5
I learned on 6013 1/8. What else is there lol kidding. I would save your beer money and buy a 140 Hobart mig.
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skunk
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Posts: 849
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Post by skunk on Apr 8, 2016 13:47:45 GMT -5
Not always easy to do but have done many prior to getting wire. What a difference. Thin metal on compacts suck. Clean off the paint helps a bunch. Practice.
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Post by yousoldout on Apr 8, 2016 13:58:45 GMT -5
electrodes and mig wire is still cheaper than 9 wire....
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Post by redneckracing12 on Apr 8, 2016 14:19:27 GMT -5
electrodes and mig wire is still cheaper than 9 wire.... Not if you get 9 wire for free.
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Post by wreckage on Apr 8, 2016 19:51:41 GMT -5
Yeah but electrodes are cheaper when they are free. Man I love my job.
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Post by saskbanger on Apr 8, 2016 22:10:46 GMT -5
if you know what the #s mean, know what you are welding and have the technique down a bead of weld with an electrode is stronger/better than any mig can lay.... really?
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Apr 9, 2016 14:46:02 GMT -5
I do everything with a 115v Lincoln wire welder. It is just big enough to tackle all the carbon steel on a derby car, and .035 flux core wire on the lowest setting is almost too much for welding the doors or any body sheet metal unless you have a good and fast technique. Also, as stated above stick welding is stronger than mig, flux core is also stronger. I would never use MIG wire on a derby car, for the simple fact of the steel is old and has to be cleaned a lot more than a flux core or stick welder would need.
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Post by saskbanger on Apr 9, 2016 20:26:26 GMT -5
I do everything with a 115v Lincoln wire welder. It is just big enough to tackle all the carbon steel on a derby car, and .035 flux core wire on the lowest setting is almost too much for welding the doors or any body sheet metal unless you have a good and fast technique. Also, as stated above stick welding is stronger than mig, flux core is also stronger. I would never use MIG wire on a derby car, for the simple fact of the steel is old and has to be cleaned a lot more than a flux core or stick welder would need. really?
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Apr 9, 2016 21:03:38 GMT -5
I do everything with a 115v Lincoln wire welder. It is just big enough to tackle all the carbon steel on a derby car, and .035 flux core wire on the lowest setting is almost too much for welding the doors or any body sheet metal unless you have a good and fast technique. Also, as stated above stick welding is stronger than mig, flux core is also stronger. I would never use MIG wire on a derby car, for the simple fact of the steel is old and has to be cleaned a lot more than a flux core or stick welder would need. really? Up until the recent layoff I was repairing rail cars, and we only used an arc welder for stainless and cast parts, everything else was gas shielded flux core. since flux wire is basically just a really long arc electrode, they're 1 and the same.
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Post by saskbanger on Apr 10, 2016 17:47:20 GMT -5
Up until the recent layoff I was repairing rail cars, and we only used an arc welder for stainless and cast parts, everything else was gas shielded flux core. since flux wire is basically just a really long arc electrode, they're 1 and the same. OK I am not a welder and have never welded professionally so this is just my opinion but I have welded lots of derby cars and lots of doors hoods etc on said derby cars. I have found mig welding does the nicest job on the sheet metal by far. Flux core has its place especially out side in windy conditions but the end product is not as nice. Maybe it's just me but I find flux core welding annoying and stinky to use with the end product looking like a monkey did it (when I do it). I find that if you clean everything as best you can you can get a good weld with a mig using standard methods. I spend a lot of time welding the sheet metal on a car (usually using 60 to 100 pounds of wire per car) and if I had to use flux core on it I don't think I would. Just my opinion.
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Apr 10, 2016 18:40:52 GMT -5
Up until the recent layoff I was repairing rail cars, and we only used an arc welder for stainless and cast parts, everything else was gas shielded flux core. since flux wire is basically just a really long arc electrode, they're 1 and the same. OK I am not a welder and have never welded professionally so this is just my opinion but I have welded lots of derby cars and lots of doors hoods etc on said derby cars. I have found mig welding does the nicest job on the sheet metal by far. Flux core has its place especially out side in windy conditions but the end product is not as nice. Maybe it's just me but I find flux core welding annoying and stinky to use with the end product looking like a monkey did it (when I do it). I find that if you clean everything as best you can you can get a good weld with a mig using standard methods. I spend a lot of time welding the sheet metal on a car (usually using 60 to 100 pounds of wire per car) and if I had to use flux core on it I don't think I would. Just my opinion. When you're welding with flux core, drag the puddle, don't push it. If you push it, the slag deposition sucks and won't look good. Also, instead of only having 1/4 inch of wire sticking out, you'll want 1/2 inch sticking out. And IMO the best method is to whip or osculate your stinger.
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Post by saskbanger on Apr 10, 2016 19:26:41 GMT -5
The last time I osilated my stinger I got arrested.
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Post by yousoldout on Apr 11, 2016 7:38:30 GMT -5
electrodes and mig wire is still cheaper than 9 wire.... Not if you get 9 wire for free. well what if ya get mig wire for free lol
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Post by yousoldout on Apr 11, 2016 8:26:09 GMT -5
if you know what the #s mean, know what you are welding and have the technique down a bead of weld with an electrode is stronger/better than any mig can lay.... really? just because you are allowed to "weld all frame seams firewall forward" doesn't mean you should....in fact on 98 n up Fords u should prolly be looking at using a 7018 at a minimum cause it's not exactly 'mild steel'.... you can do more harm than good by welding way 2 hot and weakening the metal you are trying to strengthen...and anyway...the seams are already welded what is another layer of weld gonna do? (besides weaken whats already there) SPOILER ALERT...those that are welding the seams CORRECTLY are manipulating....i.e. frame shaping...by cutting the seams and (usually) pushing the seams together....is it noticeable? no....but it helps ALOT on caddys (more noticeable) but MAINLY helps the 98-02 Fords as you able to tie in all of those factory gussets then top it off with the 10" shock, the fancy sway bar mounts (which you can manipulate into the factory pieces...)....add 4 1/4 3x3 'fix it plates'....don't forget the welding on chains for the engine (who ties their engine down with chain?) and how you creatively tie those A-arms down...WHICH with the sway bar you tie into your engine via a pulley protector which attached to your now STEEL transmission which all together...KEEPS IT ALL DOWN....not your seam welds on the frame you put on their with your MIG which is a rule to honestly make you feel good....while everyone else has a Macguyver'd setup with a rule package based around selling the other guys stuff in turn making the promoter and vendor $$$ and just making you feel good about yourself.... did I say Spoiler Alert?
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Post by saskbanger on Apr 11, 2016 9:42:47 GMT -5
just because you are allowed to "weld all frame seams firewall forward" doesn't mean you should....in fact on 98 n up Fords u should prolly be looking at using a 7018 at a minimum cause it's not exactly 'mild steel'.... you can do more harm than good by welding way 2 hot and weakening the metal you are trying to strengthen...and anyway...the seams are already welded what is another layer of weld gonna do? (besides weaken whats already there) SPOILER ALERT...those that are welding the seams CORRECTLY are manipulating....i.e. frame shaping...by cutting the seams and (usually) pushing the seams together....is it noticeable? no....but it helps ALOT on caddys (more noticeable) but MAINLY helps the 98-02 Fords as you able to tie in all of those factory gussets then top it off with the 10" shock, the fancy sway bar mounts (which you can manipulate into the factory pieces...)....add 4 1/4 3x3 'fix it plates'....don't forget the welding on chains for the engine (who ties their engine down with chain?) and how you creatively tie those A-arms down...WHICH with the sway bar you tie into your engine via a pulley protector which attached to your now STEEL transmission which all together...KEEPS IT ALL DOWN....not your seam welds on the frame you put on their with your MIG which is a rule to honestly make you feel good....while everyone else has a Macguyver'd setup with a rule package based around selling the other guys stuff in turn making the promoter and vendor $$$ and just making you feel good about yourself.... did I say Spoiler Alert? This thread was about welding sheet metal, frame welding is a whole different ball game. I use stick for that and like you say it is more therapy for me me that any actual benefit.
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