Post by crashforcash on Feb 3, 2016 18:26:44 GMT -5
2016 Vigo COUNTY FAIR ASSOCIATION
DEMOLITION DERBY RULES & REGULATIONS
FOR MODIFIED, COMPACT, and TRUCKS!
For any questions call Dave Utterback at 812-243-7374
Modified
Vigo County Fair Rules For 2016 Fair July 11th & 16th
Aftermarket control arms allowed with rubber
Front plate may be on any side of frame
Aftermarket Spindles allowed
Bumpers 9X9 only
Make your own hump plates
Safety plates from cage to floor
Automatic load for items listed, buy a tape measure
- NO BLACK CARS, at any show in any class, No dark colors without contrasting lettering scheme. All cars must be painted, this is a premier event and we expect your cars to look sharp.
- All vehicles must have a roof sign, Minimum 15" x 15", Maximum 24" x 24", contrasting colors. -These may not be positioned in such a way as to strengthen the car. Official’s decision is final.
- No Imperials, any year, Imperial sub frames, Ambulances, Hearses or limousines allowed.
- All bodies must be mounted on stock OEM frames for that year and make of car.
- NO PAINTING, BUFFING, OILING OR UNDERCOATING OF FRAMES. THESE CARS WILL NOT BE INSPECTED OR ALLOWED TO COMPETE.
- Driver must wear helmet, seat belt and eye protection at all times.
- All vehicles must have a fire extinguisher mounted within the drivers reach, inside the car.
- All Drivers must pick up trophies, earnings at the completion of the event, or forfeit them. They will not be available after that date.
- These are not suggestions. This is NOT a menu. This is what is allowed as far as preparation of the car. Please do not try to read anything more into these rules. “THIS IS WHAT YOU ARE ALLOWED TO DO TO PREPARE YOUR CAR.”
COMPETITION RULES:
- Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet, seatbelt and eye protection on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.
- Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rules. If you use the door defense repeatedly you will be disqualified.
- No hot rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.
- Any open door will be cause disqualification, you are allowed one fire, and then second fire will be cause for disqualification.
- Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show, put one on for them!
- You must make AGGRESSIVE HIT every 60 seconds.
- You will be given ample time for restarts. We do not use the clock exclusively. We try to work with you if you are hung up. Hitters get more time than sandbaggers.
- This is not a team event; team driving will not be tolerated.
- THERE IS NO ALCOHOL IN THE PITS. This includes pit crews. If you or ANY of your crew is caught with alcohol, you will be disqualified.
- All cars are subject to a post race inspection before any prize money is awarded.
- You must be a driver to protest, the fee is $250 and you must have cash in hand. This protest must take place immediately at the conclusion of the feature event. The protesting driver must have competed in the same class as the driver he is protesting.
- Any questions, CALL FIRST. Don’t assume anything. The Officials decision is final.
CAR BUILDING GUIDELINES:
GENERAL PREPARATION:
- All glass, plastic and pot metal must be removed. Nothing may remain in the bottoms of the trunk or doors.
- All outer hardware must be removed - door handles, mirrors, chrome, moldings, screws, fiberglass, etc. No added weight to any car.
- Rear seats in all cars and all decking in station wagons must be removed.
- Front seats must be securely bolted to the floor, however, these bolts may NOT go thru the frame! You must have a functioning seat belt.
- All flammable materials must be removed from the car other than safety padding and the driver’s seat.
- No fresh sedagon or wedge cars are allowed.
TIRES & BRAKES:
- No tires taller than 30". 4 wheels max per car. No duals.
- No split rims, studded tires or 100% solid wheels, you may use aftermarket center with various bolt patterns, solid centers are fine.
- Valve stem protectors allowed, wheel weights must be removed. Valve stem protectors may not extend more than 6 inches from valve stem. Not allowed to be a rim protector.
- Bead Locks okay on either side.
- Doubled or foam filled tires allowed.
- All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
- You may not change tires after inspection, ride height will be measured with your competition tires only.
BUMPERS, BUMPER BRACKETS:
********Bumper may not exceed 9’’x9’’.************
- BUMPERS are interchangeable for all cars.
-BUMPER-IF you start with a stock/replacement bumper you are allowed to re-enforce inside of bumper. Also, bumpers must start and stop at the end of the frame. Bumper must appear stock from the stands with no spike or protruding items.
-All bumpers must have a factory skin, if your bumper will not fit in a factory skin, it is too big
- You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame
- Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires.
- Bumpers may be flipped (upside down).
MOUNTING:
You may mount your bumper one of two way, not both.
*First way is same as in past:
- You may shorten frame in front of mount but must utilize stock body mount hole.
- You may weld the bumper seams, bumper shocks and the brackets to the frame. You may not weld any further than 4 inches behind the radiator support AT ALL when mounting your front bumper brackets on any car. No bracket or welding may be done further than 4 inches behind the radiator support other than the top frame seam. – NO
EXCEPTIONS!
- If you choose not to use brackets, you may weld your bumper directly to the frame.
- You may not weld the bumper to the body at any time.
- Compression bumper shocks may be drained, slid back into the shock and welded fully.
- You may not reconfigure a bracket or change shock mount location.
- Only shocks allowed inside frames are the original shock and configuration from factory.
- No REAR bumper brackets allowed on front. - You are not allowed to plug weld frame holes on BOP cars.
- Buick, Olds and Pontiacs may fill the large hole in the frame behind the radiator support. This must be a butt fit, 1 pass weld only. NO overlap allowed. - (2-straps 1-Per side )You may weld a 2" x 6" x 1/4" strap from the bumper to the frame to help keep the bumper on the car
This must remain in one piece. It cannot be angled to the corner of the bumper to form a kicker. 6" is the maximum length.
**OR**(pick one not both)
*Second method to mount bumper:
- Remove all brackets and shocks and discard.
- Leave forward radiator support mount in stock location (bolted/floating mounts such as Cadillac may be welded to frame in stock location.
- You may shorten frame in front of mount but must utilize stock body mount hole.
-You may weld core support spacer to bumper
- (2 plates 1 per side) You May weld a 4 inch wide by 3/8 thick plate from bumper to forward most part of top A-arm bracket , any outside frame side(top/bottom/inner/outer) you pick, nothing inside. Do exceed. - You may run 4 loops of #9 wire from the radiator support to the bumper in 2 locations outside of the radiator - You may weld (2)- 2" x 6" x 1/4" strap( per side) from the rear bumper to the frame to help keep the bumper on the car.
- You may also run 2 pieces of all thread 5/8" x no more than 14" thru the body pan to help hold the rear bumper on. 5" washer maximum for this bolt.
- Bumper height must be 16" to 22" measured to the bottom of the frame at the back and front body mount location.
- Nothing may be inside frame, and do not "Great Stuff" between frame and radiator support mount.
Any questions call first
FRAMES:
************ If you weld anything to your frame not in our rules, you will be LOADED!!!!! No exceptions!!!!!**************
- The only frame welding allowed is from the front of the a-arms forward( top side only) do not reweld A-arm brackets to frame, , no more than ONE ½" wide bead .
- The bumper strap to frame welding is covered in the bumper section.
- NO other frame welding is allowed. No plating, stuffing, heat treating or foam filling of frames is allowed. Do NOT paint or undercoat your frame or you will not even be inspected and loaded. We want to see all welds bare, DO NOT PAINT!
- You may weld your motor mounts to the engine cradle, not to the frame rails.
- Rear frame rails may not be shortened. No dowel pinning of the frame is allowed.
- You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but do NOT weld the cut.
- You may run a chain or cable or #9 wire from rear rail to rear rail behind the rear humps. 3/8" chain maximum.
- You may chain or wire your axle to the frame hump. You may NOT use strapping of any kind for this. Wire or chain only. 3/8" chain maximum. Chain must go around frame on full frame cars, do not bolt through hump creating a frame pin, and except uni-body cars may use 1 bolt per side thru the frame for this.
- You may not weld the chain links to create a bar effect.
- frame shaping is allowed But no Material added.
-Hump plates may be added to any coil sprung cars, may be ¼ inch thick max, 22" long by 6 inches tall and must be centered and in hump. You may make or buy your own. You may plug weld. These may not be welded on in a way to impede any natural rear-end movement.
BODY BOLTS:
- All body bolts may be replaced with up to 5/8" bolts, maximum 8" length.
- Core support bolts may be 1" diameter. Core support bolts may go thru the hood and count as 2 of your 6 hood bolts.
- You may use pipe up to 2" OD to run the core support all thread thru for spacers. These pipes may be welded to the core support using 3/16" strapping, 2 -4" pcs. Max per pipe.
- Body Washers and body spacers must be free floating Do not weld.
- Do NOT weld the body washers to the floor. Maximum washer size is 5" x 3/16".
- Space must be maintained between the body and the frame; Minimum 3/4".
- Do not bolt the body directly to the frame.
- You may add 2 body mounts in the position of your choice. They must be welded to outside frame only.
- If your station wagon came with the body bolts in the humps, these are your 2 additional mounts. You will NOT be allowed to add more mounts.
- If you decide to bolt your coil springs in place thru the frame and the rear package tray, these will count as your added mounts.
- Wagons are permitted to run 2 of the rear 4 mounts thru the rear pillars. NOT THE ROOF. They must be in the pillar at the tailgate area.
- Chrysler products may run 1" all thread behind the radiator support, but must drill a hole in the frame to bolt the all thread.
- Do not weld anything to the frame, all items must free float.
RADIATORS, RADIATOR SUPPORTS:
- Radiator must be in the stock position in front of the motor.
- Radiator supports must remain in the stock location, DO NOT MOVE.
- OEM style radiators only, no homemade tube construction radiators.
- You may not add cooling capacity. No supplemental cooling devices allowed.
- Expanded metal in front of radiator must be 1/8 inch or less thickness, and only attached in 4 spots (3/8 bolts or 4 - 1 inch welds).
- Core support spacers must stay on top of frame
BATTERIES:
- A maximum of 2 - 12 volt batteries may be used.
- They must be secured inside the car in front of the passenger seat and covered.
- Rusted out holes in your floor sheet metal may be patched where components will be mounted or for drivers safety, sheet metal only. No other sheet metal patching is allowed unless it is a safety issue. You may not patch clean and solid floors.
- No oversized mount plates or boxes. Do not mount anything within 6 inches of any body bolt. (Exception of center body mount in belly rail)
- Do not mount batteries against firewall or crush boxes, position as far back as possible.
- No floor mount component may structurally enhance the car.
FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEMS:
- No plastic gas tanks allowed. Marine tank or metal fuel tank only.
- 10+ gallon tank recommended. No coffins, be reasonable!]
- Gas must be centered in cage for maximum safety and minimal structural enhancement.
-Gas tank may be attached to floor or cage not both
-Gas tank mount may not exceed 32’’wide.. If mounted to the floor (NOTHING MAY KICK UP REAR FIREWALL OR PACKAGE TRAY)
- Original gas tanks must be removed from the car.
- You must have the gas tank securely mounted behind the driver’s seat and it must be covered.
- Fuel lines must run inside the car, not under the car along the frame.
- Fuel lines must be secured to the floor and kept from pinch points
- Automotive pump gas only, NO ALCOHOL.
- Electric fuel pumps are allowed. They must be covered and have an on/off switch near the steering wheel and clearly marked in large letters.
- All lines must be double clamped.
- If your gas tank or way of mounting is not safe you will not run!
ENGINES:
- Any engine may be used in any car, but it must be mounted within 5" of the original motor.
- You may chain the motor, Chains may not be attached any higher than cylinder heads, header flanges of engine plates. 1 Chain per side, 3/8 max
- You may weld in additional supports to the engine cradle area, but they may not be attached to the frame rails at any point. Only allowed for holding engine in place.Do not cover any seams with weld or plate.
- All hoses must be covered in driver’s compartment for driver safety
- No engine oil coolers are allowed.
- You must have an air cleaner over the carburetor at all times.
- No starting fluid is allowed.
- Mopar’s or K member cars are allowed to secure K member in the following ways:
->Remove pucks and bolt tight to frame, stock size bolts only.
->Leave pucks in between and weld 4 - 3 inch welds, total (not per side) of 12 inches only.
DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTORS/CRADLES:
- If you run a DP do not mount your dash bar closer than 5 inches to the rear most point of the firewall/cowl, YOU WILL NOT RUN. An will not be able to fix at the track
- Distributor protectors allowed, must be attached to engine or transmission only, back side that contacts the firewall must be no wider than 12 inches, must not contact cage before, during or after the event. It may not be welded, bolted or connected to body, hood or frame. Forward supports must be inside normally positioned headers and not extend past the water pump mount bolts.
- Aftermarket Distributor protectors, cradles and pulley protectors are allowed.
- You may beat flat the engine side of the firewall only, do not weld or bolt firewall. Do not re-enforce the firewall/cowl. Do not crease, paint, bolt, weld on, weld to or modify the firewall/cowl in any way.
- Mid plates and front plates must not extend further that 2.5 inch past engine or transmission. Any part of protector contacting or will contact dash must be less than 12 inches wide.
- Lower cradles must mount similar to a factory mount, any bars connecting mid plate to cradle must be below the cylinder heads.
- Pulley protectors must not extend more than 8 inches.
- Any cable routing tubes must maintain the 5 inch gap to dash bar.
- Keep protector within reason! Vince has final say!
TRANSMISSIONS:
- Transmissions must be of passenger car origin, transmission coolers may be used, but they must be secured in such a way to prevent injury.
- Metal or braided lines must be used. No fuel or low-pressure lines may be used.
- Coolers must be secured in a container in the passenger compartment of the car.
-Transmission protectors are allowed with the following criteria:
- They may not rise more than 1 inch above the highest point of the bell housing, including the attachment point
- They may not attach or brace to the cross member, frame, or any part of the cage components
- They may be fabricated of tubing or round stock of no greater OD than 3/4
- If flat material is used, it can be no thicker than 3/8. These components may not be used in tandem to create a material thicker than either of these measurements.
- Trans blanket is recommended.
- OEM Tran cross member or No bigger than 3"x3". Must be mounted with at least a 1/4 space from all trans protector components.
- Cross member may not exceed factory curves(less than 6 inch bow)
- You may weld or bolt a 3’’x 3’’ inch angle iron to inside frame, 5 inches max to facilitate the mounting of cross member.
- Center mount may not exceed a normal Trans mount bolt area 6 inch max, no additional bracing allowed.
SKID PLATES:
- Skid plates are allowed. They may be one piece from engine to transmission.
- They may not extend past oil pan or transmission pan. Don’t connect to transmission cross member. Must be 1 inch space.
- NO bolting or welding the skid plate to the frame.
REAR ENDS:
**You may run 10 lug or floater rear ends. No part of rear end may strengthen the car’s frame or body in any way.
- You may use any type of rear end (Ford / Mopar / GM / Hybrid).
- You may tilt the rear end by lengthening or shortening the trailing arms. OEM Trailing arms must be of passenger car origin and may be reinforced.
Aftermarket trailing arms may be used but must contain a rubber bushing.
- Rear end braces are allowed, but they may serve no purpose other than to strengthen the rear end housing. They may not extend from the rear end further than 6” and may not be higher than the top of the axle tube.
HOODS:
- Hoods may be bolted, wired or chained shut ONLY.
- You may use 6 bolts top hold the hood, front two may be 1" max, other 5/8” or less.
- The 2 front bolts may go thru the frame, NOT welded to the frame. The other 4 must be sheet metal to sheet metal.
- If you use chain or wire, you may weld up to 5" washers to the hood. If bolting, the 5" washers must be free floating.
-You may install up to 12 - 3/8" bolts or self-tapping screws in hood.
- NO welding of cut outs is allowed.
- You must have a minimum 10" hole in the hood for fire protection.
- Hoods must be open at inspection time.
DOORS:
- Doors may be welded Solid, outside only (this means no straps should be touching another strap) 3" x 1/8" strap maximum.
-You may smash the inner and outer skin together and weld them solid, NO added metal. This includes wagon tailgates
- If you do not weld your doors you must chain or #9 wire them closed in at least 2 spots. You may NOT bolt your doors shut.
- Drivers door may have window netting for driver’s safety. NO other windows may have netting.
- You may weld a plate Maximum 6" x 1/4" across the front doors for protection, not to exceed 6" beyond the front door seams. NO GRADER BLADES. These plates must be in the center of the door, run horizontally.
- Wagon tail gates may be welded:
1. 5 on 5 off, not solid,
**OR**
2. you may bolt the tailgate as in previous years. 4 bolts, 4 nuts, 3/4” max
**OR**
3.you may weld 5” pieces of angle to the tailgate and quarters and use 3/4 “ max bolts pick 1 not all 3.
WINDOWS:
- You must have a piece of rebar/all thread/chain (3/8 max),#9 wire or 3”X 1/4”max flat straps. No angle or tubing running from the roof to the cowl in the windshield area for drivers protection - 2-1/2 bolts per mounting location , up to 2 pieces max. - This may not be designed as reinforcement to the car and must be space at least 18 inches apart on the bottom, and no cross connections. -No other added metal or mount plates, either weld directly or bolt to sheet metal only. No component may be mounted, welded or bolted within 6 inches of the DP.
- You may use 2 loops, 4 strands of #9 wire total in each window opening. This wire may go to or around the frame.
- Station Wagons may not use wire in any window opening beyond the rear passenger door window opening.
- The wire must remain in the field of that window. They may not crisscross the interior of the car.
- Window bars 2"x2" Max, 6" on roof 6"on Trunk.
Body:
- Body creasing, enhancing of existing body lines and addition of body lines is allowed to the sides of the car only. - Do not fold the metal over to create a doubled effect; any spot with 4 layers of sheet metal will be torched out completely. Trunk lid seams must be clearly visible and accessible.
- No doubling of body panels allowed, no added metal allowed
- Quarter panels must remain vertical. Tail light valances must remain vertical.
- NO SEAM WELDING other than the exterior driver’s doors.
- Core support seam welding is NOT allowed.
- Washers for #9 Wire may be welded to the roof sheet metal. They may be a maximum of 1 ½" diameter. **No washers may be welded for future wire installation.
- Holes may be cut in the floor & firewall to accommodate the shifter, fuel lines, and transmission lines.
- You may cut a hole in the firewall to accommodate the engine, within reason must have fire wall covered. With rubber or nonflammable material.
- You may have up to 5 - 3/8" bolts in each wheel opening. They may not be higher than 5" above the stock lip location of the wheel opening.
CAGES & DOOR BARS:
- You may use channel or tubing up to 6" for the door bars. Total length is not to exceed 60". This bar may not be more than 18" behind the center post on 4 door cars and 10" behind the door seam on 2 door cars - No exceptions.
- Dash bar and seat bars may not exceed 6" diameter 1 bar max per side. No double bars. Seat bar must be no further than 6" behind the seat. All bars must be straight pieces no contoured pieces.
-If you run a DP do not mount your dash bar closer than 5 inches to the rear most point of the firewall/cowl, YOU WILL NOT RUN. - -Sedans only, are allowed a gas tank protector, 24” X 6” inches, centered in the back seat area. All interior sheet metal must remain in stock position. Do not pound!
- You may add a diagonal bar behind the driver’s seat and directly below the seat bar running from the seat bar to the floor sheet metal.
- You may add 4 total VERTICAL down bars. They must measure at least 8 in length and be attached to the bottom of the side bars or seat bar do not add to the end or the side bars , must maintain a TOTAL of 60 inches or less for side bars., welded to your door bar and to the floor sheet metal. These bars may not attach to or conceal a body mount, or be within 5 inches of any body mount or plate.
- No kickers, angled or otherwise. NO cage components may be welded to the frame. 4 Down rights, welded to frame.
- All horizontal cage components must be at least 8" off the floor of the car, including gas tank protector, side bars measured at the body bolt elevation, dash bar measured at trans tunnel.
- All cage components must be in the interior of the car, not inside the door structure with the exception of the driver’s side. This door bar MAY be inside the door structure to allow more room for driver’s safety.
- All gussets must be on the interior of the 4 point cage.
- You may run a 1/4 solid plate from cage to floor and may extend 1 inch past inner door seam for welding. May be welded solid on all four sides. PASS Front an DRIVERS Front only doors only!!
HALO OR ROLLOVER BARS:
- You must add a halo bar to the cage components listed above. It may not exceed 5" in diameter.
- On a 4-door post car, this bar must attach the side bar in line with seat bar, no exceptions.
- On a 2-door or 4-door non-post car, this bar may be attached to the floor sheet metal.
- Halo bars must be in a direct vertical line with the seat bar.
- Halo bars may NOT be angled toward the rear of the car. They must be vertical.
-You may bolt the halo bar to the roof sheet metal in 2 places.
TRUNK LIDS:
- Trunk lids must remain 50% in the stock location. The trunk lid must remain on hinges.
- You may fasten your trunk lid in ALL OF THE FOLLOWING 3 ways:
1. You may weld Solid 3" x 1/8" strap max.
- AND -
2. You may weld 4 pcs. of 5/8" all thread vertically to the rear frame rails and run them thru the trunk lid. No double nutting. You may use a 5" washer on the trunk lid bolts, plates may not be welded and must be free-floating.
- AND -
3. You may place up to 8 - 3/8" bolts in the drip rail area of the trunk lid OR around inspection holes.
- There must be 12" minimum hole in the trunk lid for inspection purposes.
- Trunk lid seams must be clearly visible and accessible, do not pound over.
- Relocation of the speaker deck is not allowed it must remain in stock/factory location. -No Relocating of any sheet metal components. (DO NOT REMOVE HINGS OR SPEAKER DECK) -Your trunk lid may be V’ed in the center but must remain 12 inches off trunk floor at body mount location; speaker deck can be 10 inches at body mount location will be measured at speaker holes.
- No fully wedged cars, rear quarters and tail light valance must remain vertical. (Stop trunk lid at the top of valance) if trunk lid is any lower than the tail light valance you will have to raise it.
*80’s and newer
- You may pitch, tilt or tip 80’s and newer style cars in 1 of the 3 following ways only:
1. You may cold pitch, no added metal
2. You may cut all four flaps and pull the front end down moving the flap ½ inch and re-weld. Do not re-weld any other crush box seams, no added metal.
3. You may pitch at the transmission cross member, since you are already allowed to weld a 5 inch piece of angle there to mount your cross member.
*98 and newer
- Watts-link conversion for Fords. You may convert a Watts-Link to a standard 4 link system in the following way: Use the upper and lower trailing arm brackets off an older Ford. After market brackets are allowed, but no thicker than ¼ inch and may be attached with max of (5)-1/2 and 2-3/4 – bolts each side. No positioning of brackets to strengthen the front down legs of the rear hump, must be mount in the stock location.
- Any watts link brackets not utilized may not be altered to reinforce frame.
*03s and newer
- All material used must not exceed 1/4 inch thickness.
- You must provide a one inch inspection hole in spring bucket, you may weld 1 inch washer around it.
- Must run the original aluminum cradle and stock lower A-arm. Aluminum cradle must be visible, do not wrap entire cradle, bottom straps limited to 8 inches flat straps.
- Upper A arm, motor mounts and spring bucket must mount off the 2 existing cradle bolts. No frame welding allowed for these components.
- No mounting plate or component may extend more than 2 inch in front of or behind the cradle bolts, measured from middle of of the bolt, this rule will be strictly enforced.
-You may use any automotive or fabricated spring bucket but it must not strengthen the frame in any way, cannot not be larger than necessary to hold coil spring. Again must be mounted off 2 existing cradle bolts. DO NOT weld to frame in any way.
- No pinning of frame. YOU WILL BE LOADED NO CHANCE TO FIX!!!!
- To mount steering box, you may weld a tube to the top and bottom of frame. Do not weld excessively, do not pin frame to mount the steering box.
- Do not weld any seams behind the A-arm, even if the factory skip welded the seam, do not weld!
- If you choose to pitch, this must be done at the Trans cross member only.
- You may cut the excess frame off the front rails but you may not move the front body mount. All body mounts must remain in stock location.
SUSPENSION, SPRINGS:
- NO SUSPENSION PART MAY REINFORCE FRAME
- any after-mark or OEM automotive spindle accepted.
- No coil to leaf conversions in compact class, homemade hump plates only (not supplied)
- Leaf springs must be in the factory position.
- You may change coil springs
- Suspension must be factory car suspension unless stated otherwise.
- You may NOT remove the shocks and put pipe or all thread in their place.
- You may weld or bolt or chain down your A-arms, pick one and only one.
- All chains, bolts or welds must be in the middle of the A-arm.
- If you run 80s Ford or GM A-arms on 98-02 Ford you may replace the factory center bar to the bolt heads only. No welding on frame.
1. You are allowed 2- 2” x 3’’ max strap welded per A-Arm, nothing may contact the frame rail, and all attachments must be made to spring bucket only. 1’’ON ARM 1’’ON SPRING BUCKET
**OR**
2. One chain, welded to spring bucket only.
**OR**
3. One bolt per side welded to spring bucket only, may hold upper or lower A-arm, but not both.
- No spring spacers may be used
- You may not plate, reconfigure or re-enforce A-arms
- You may reinforce your tie rods, but you must use the OEM tie rod ends.
- Pipe Tie Rods are allowed but you must use the stock ends, no aftermarket hiems.
- Steering wheel to Steering gearbox may be modified.
- Aftermarket steering columns allowed.
- Shock absorbers must be factory replacement for that year, make and model of car.
- No truck shocks, no exotic shocks, no mystery shocks, no oversized shocks.
- Air shock lines must be cut.
LEAF SPRINGS:
- 9 leaf maximum, 5/16 " max thickness, 2 ½" wide maximum.
- 58" minimum, 60" maximum spring length.
- Stagger - 3" long side (rear of axle), 2" short side (front of axle).
- 5 clamps per spring, 2 in front of the axle, 3 behind the axle.
- Clamp material 1/4" thick, 2" wide, 2 – 3/8" bolts per clamp.
- U-bolts - 1/2" maximum
- No homemade mounting plates or oversized U-bolts will be allowed.
- No welding on the spring pack
- No flat sprung cars - leaf pack must have a minimum of 2" of arch.
- No duct taping of springs prior to inspection.
- Postal Mopar brackets are excepted (only 4- 1/2 bolts) when mounting spring to rear-end stay tight to rear-end like factory
Coil Sprung cars are allowed the following:
Leaf Convert(not allowed on compacts)(no hump plates allowed):
-Any rear end - 10 lugs are ok
- 9 leaf maximum, 5/16 " max thickness, 2 ½" wide maximum.
- 54" minimum, 60" maximum spring length.
- Stagger - 3" long side (rear of axle), 2" short side (front of axle).
- 5 clamps per spring, 2 in front of the axle, 3 behind the axle.
- Clamp material 1/4" thick, 2" wide, 2 – 3/8" bolts per clamp.
- U-bolts - 1/2" maximum
- No homemade mounting plates or oversized U-bolts will be allowed.
- No welding on the spring pack
- No flat sprung cars - leaf pack must have a minimum of 2" of arch.
- No duct taping of springs prior to inspection.
- Rear mount - 6X6X1/4" shackle, has to be a working shackle in rear.
-Front eyelet mount, pick ONE:
1. In trailing arm bracket, w/3x3x1/4" gusset
2. In the frame with a bolt thru - no added metal
3. Box welded to the frame 4X6X1/4" maximum, must mounted at lower control arm bolt.
-No all-thread struts, must have shock absorbers.
-NO ADDED METAL OTHER THAN WHAT IS SPECIFIED ABOVE. NO EXCEPTIONS.
**INSPECTION PROCEDURES:
- Official’s decisions are final.
- You will be given one (1) opportunity to correct items on your car.
- Each car gets a maximum of 2 times thru inspection. (0ne re inspect)
- Cars will be impounded after inspection and staged in a secure location.
- You must be completely ready to bolt the hood down during inspection and then put the car in the staging area.
- No further work will be allowed and cars will not be allowed to return to their trailers.
- Do not come to the inspection line if you are not done preparing your car.
- Any added or welded metal plate/rod or material not specifically covered in the rules, will be removed completely as well as the surrounding metal. Don’t do it or your car will be weakened! Call ahead!
STOCK CLASS
Vigo County Fair Rules For 2016 Fair July 11th & 16th
-Absolutely no: Distributor protectors, radiator guards (other than stock A.C. condenser), tranny
protectors.
Frames:
-No seam welding, pinning, filling, stuffing or painting!!
-You may patch a rust hole on the frame but it cannot be bigger than 4”x6” and it will count as one of
your 4 allowed plates. Must be able to verify it was needed.
-No frame shaping allowed other than 12 inches in the center of the hump. 6 inches in front of axle
centerline and 6 inches behind. If you take it to the point of ripping or tearing the metal you will not be
allowed to weld it back up. That’s your fault not ours.
-The only allowed method of pitching a car is to cold bend it, no exceptions!!
-Pre ran’s will be allowed 4 plates. Plates only allowed on a visible bend or rust hole and cannot be
bigger than a 4”x6”x1/4”. If you go bigger be prepared to cut!!!
-You are allowed to #9 wire the frame rails together in one spot behind the humps. No more than triple
stranded.
Bumper/Bumper Mounting:
-Homemade pointy bumpers must have a tapered point that closely resembles a Chrysler pointy bumper
-Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges.
-Any front bumper bracket may be used on any car. If you choose to, you may make your shocks out of
2”x2” tubing.
-Absolutely no bracket or shock may be welded past 6 inches behind the factory core support mount
hole on the frame rail. If your cars factory shock or bracket goes farther than 6 inches back, it must
remain completely factory beyond the allotted 6 inches.
-If you choose to hard nose or put your shock inside the frame you MUST have a ¾” hole in the top
center of your frame 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. (Unless we
can clearly see the shock stops where it’s supposed to) You may weld a ¾” hardware washer around the
hole to make up for the missing metal. Single pass only!!!
-Suicide Lincolns and cars that have no core support mount must only go 6 inches past the vertical part
of core support right above the frame rail when mounting the bumper.
-Rear bumper brackets may be welded, single pass only. Absolutely no rear bracket may be moved
forward.
Suspension:
- Everything must be factory make for the car. You may upgrade to stiffer/taller coil springs. A-arms and
spindles may be changed but must stay Ford to Ford or GM to GM. No homemade or aftermarket parts.
One exception is 98 and newer Ford cars may do the Watts Link conversion, with ZTR style brackets. No
additional metal may be added other than the brackets themselves.
-Tie rods can be welded up, but no added metal or bracing.
-Steering box swaps are allowed, but absolutely no welding on the frame. Keep the mounts minimal. If
we feel your using your steering box mount to strengthen frame you will not run.
-Aftermarket steering shafts allowed.
-Cars must bounce.
-Rear trail arms cannot be shortened, lengthened, or braced in any way whatsoever. You may weld a
single hardware washer around the rear hole of the upper control arms. Single pass only!!
-Rear end may be chained or wired in one spot per frame rail. Must be straight over the center of the
axle and NOT welded to the frame.
-Factory size, number and stagger will apply to cars with factory leaf springs. You may add 2 clamps in
front of rear axle and 3 in rear. Max of 2 bolts per clamp. Bolts can’t be bigger 3/8” and clamps can only
be 2 inches wide. No welding or duct taping of springs.
Drivetrain:
-Any motor or transmission in any vehicle.
-Engine cradles are allowed, but must not go past the third spark plug from the front. All your basic
Robbo, Big Rock, XXX cradles are allowed.
-If you choose to run a pulley protector, you must remove the sway bar between the frame rails.
-Solid lower engine mounts are allowed. If you need to weld plates under your lower mounts because
they won’t sit on the engine crossmember that’s fine, but they must not be attached to the frame rails.
-If you choose to chain your engine in, the chains must only be attached to the engine and straight down
to engine cross member.
-Skid plates must be just for the pan they are protecting and can’t extend more than a ½” from there
pan.
-You may run an aluminum ultra bell on automatics. Manual transmissions may run a blow proof bell
housing. No additional bolts or welding permitted.
-If you choose to not run the factory transmission cross member you may use 2”x2” tubing instead. It
must mount in factory make and model location. No plates bigger than 4”x4” welded to the frame to
weld your cross member to!!!
-If you’re using a bolt on style transmission mount, it must be an O.E.M. rubber mount. If you choose to
not run a mount you may wrap chain or wire around transmission and cross member to hold it in place.
NO WELDING and only one bolt if you choose the wire or chain route.
-If your car is factory equipped with a floating cross member (example: mid 70’s Fords and 74 and older
Cadillacs) you may add TWO 5/8” bolts and bolt it solid to floor. Washers cannot exceed 4”x4”
diameter!!! This will be extremely strictly enforced!!!
-Slider shafts are allowed.
-Any factory car or truck rear end is allowed. No rear-ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup permitted
and only one wheel per side of rear end. You may weld brackets on the rear end to accommodate the
vehicles factory suspension style. When building brackets for the upper ears you may not go any wider
than 16 inches from center on either side to mount the upper ears. (So 32” total mount area)
-Rear end braces must not be wider than 32” at the widest point.
Cage:
-4 point cages are allowed. Must be a minimum of 6 inches above the factory body mount height.
-4 down legs are allowed to the frame, but must only be located in between the front door inner seams.
-Down legs off of the cage that attach to the body must be no further back than the rear spreader and
no further forward than the front door inner seam.
-Roll over bars must be vertical and no farther back than the rear spreader bar (maximum of 6 inches
behind the seat). You will only be allowed to attach bar to roof with 2 bolts no bigger than 1 inch.
Washers must not exceed 4”x4”.
-Gas tank protectors are allowed but must remain 10 inches from the rear firewall and no more than 30
inches wide, and in the center of the car. It can be bolted to the floor if NOT attached to the cage.
Body Mounts:
-You may replace the 2 body mounts in the core support and the 4 in the trunk pan only!!
-The 2 in the core support may be replaced with 1 inch althread and ran up through the hood. They may
be bolted solid. If you choose to run a spacer between core support and frame it can’t be bigger than
2”x2” tubing and must be free floating.
-The 4 rear body mounts can be bolted solid. 2 of those may have ¾ inch althread ran vertically through
the trunk lid. (Wagons may go vertically through the roof or pillars, but if you do that you may not use 2
pieces to hold the tailgate shut)
-You may weld a 4”x4” washer on top of the core support for the althread to pass through.
-No double nutting or sleeving of the althread.
-Mopars can either go through the frame or welded to the side. Must be on the flat part of the rear
frame under the trunk pan.
- All body mounts washers may not exceed 4”x4” diameter.
-Body mounts from the firewall to the humps may be changed if need be. Only in the factory locations.
The ONLY allowable substitution is to use a bolt no bigger than ½”. You must have the rubber bushing
WITH the steel sleeve and NOT be crushed or you may use a hockey puck. You must use hardware
washers only. NO homemade washers!*
Body:
-Sheet metal may be cut for clearance, but no bending, folding or reattaching anywhere.
-You may use five 3/8” bolts per wheel well opening. Hardware washers only. Absolutely no other
bolting of the body other than the bolts allowed in the hood.
-You’re allowed a maximum of 8 spots of double stranded #9 wire to hold hood and 8 spots of double
stranded #9 wire to hold trunk lid down. You may weld a 1 inch hardware washer around each hole to
keep from tearing. All wire must be body to body only.
-Wagon tailgates may have 8 spots of double stranded 9 wire and 2 pieces of ¾ althread, but the
althread must be through the body only and NOT the frame.
-The only acceptable rust repair on any car is allowed in the driver and passenger area. This is for safety
purposes only, and if we think you used this to strengthen the car for anything other than safety
purposes you will not be allowed to run.
-Doors may be welded solid with strap no bigger than 4”x1/8”. Tops of doors may be folded over and
welded but no added metal. Absolutely no other body seam welding beside doors!!!
-Hood and trunk lid must be open during inspection.
-You may run double stranded number 9 wire from quarter panel to quarter panel in trunk to keep the
quarters from blowing apart. Single hardware washers may be welded around holes only.
-No wedged cars allowed in old school class.
-Sedagons will be allowed but call for allowable tucking methods.
-In addition to the 2 pieces of althread in the core support you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the
hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double
stranded #9 wire in 8 spots. It must be body to body only.
-No more than ten 3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
-You will be allowed 4 spots of double stranded #9 wire from your hood/core support to your front
bumper.
-Body creasing is allowed, but absolutely no bolting or welding to assist.
Trucks
Vigo County Fair Rules For 2016 Fair July 11th & 16th
Trucks will follow all safety rules and regulations posted in the General Rules section.
Below you will find a list of the options you have to build a truck if you choose to alter the stock
configurations. We absolutely will not work with a driver to get a truck into the show. Do not read these
rules trying to find grey areas and do not read between the lines because you are only setting yourself
up to be pissed. We will enforce these rules very, very strictly and the Head Inspector’s say is final!
Absolutely no: Distributor protectors, radiator guards (other than stock A.C. condenser), tranny
protectors, or tranny case modifications. Also, absolutely no rear end bracing!!!
Frame:
-No pinning, plating, filling, stuffing or painting; other than what is allowed in our rules.
-Frame may be seam welded. Single pass only.
-Pre-rans are allowed 4 plates. Plates are only allowed on a visible bend and cannot be bigger than 4”x8”
max.
Bumper/Bumper Mounting:
-Homemade pointy bumpers must have a tapered point that closely resembles a Chrysler pointy bumper
-Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges.
-Any front bumper bracket may be used on any truck. If you choose to, you may make your shocks out
of 2”x2” tubing.
-Absolutely no bracket or shock may be welded past 6 inches behind the factory core support mount
hole on the frame rail. If your trucks factory shock or bracket goes farther than 6 inches back, it must
remain completely factory beyond the allotted 6 inches.
-Bumper height is a maximum of 28 inches to the bottom of the front bumper and a minimum of 18
inches to the bottom of the rear bumper.
Suspension:
-Front suspensions may be converted from coil spring design to leaf spring design. Keep the leaf springs
mounts minimal. Do not use them to strengthen the frame.
-Tie rods can be welded up but no additional metal can be added.
-You may add 2 clamps in front of the axle and 3 behind the axle. Max of 2 bolts per clamp. Bolts can’t
be bigger than 3/8” and clamps can only be 2” wide. No duct tape or welding on the springs.
-Aftermarket steering shafts are allowed.
-Solid front suspensions are allowed but do not use this to strengthen the frame or you will need to cut
it in order to run.
Drivetrain:
-Any motor or transmission in any vehicle.
-Pulley protectors allowed but the sway bar must be removed if there is a possibility of it coming in
contact with the pulley protector.
-Skid plates allowed but can’t extend more than a ½” from the pan they are protecting.
-Solid lower engine mounts are allowed.
-No transmission case modifications.
-Slider shafts are allowed.
-No rear ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup. If running a dually rear end you may only run one wheel
per side. No rear end bracing.
Cage:
-4 point cage allowed and highly recommended.
-Gas tank protectors allowed and is not to extend more than 36 inches from the front of the bed, but
can be full width of the bed.
Body:
-Doors may be welded solid and cab can be welded to bed. (please do both!!!)
-All body bolts can be replaced and bolted solid with no bolts bigger than ¾”. Only exception is you may
use 1” althread in the core support and run it up through the hood. 4”x4” maximum body mount washer
size.
-In addition to the 2 pieces of althread in the core support, you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the
hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double
stranded #9 wire in 8 spots. It must be body to body only.
-You may also run double stranded #9 wire from the front bumper to the hood or core support in 4
places only.*
-No more than 10 3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
-Tailgates may be welded solid.
-You may fold bedsides over from the wheel wells back and tailgate may be folded over. If you choose to
do so it may only be attached to bed floor with 8 double strands of number 9 wire.
-If you choose to “tuck” a suburban or other long roof vehicle you may only attach the roof to quarter
panels with 8 spots of double stranded 9 wire. Body to body only!!
-Five 3/8” bolts per wheel well. Hardware washers only.
-The only acceptable rust repair is in the cab floor and front of bed where gas tank mounts. This is for
safety purposes only. If you don’t follow this you simply will not run.
Compact
Vigo County Fair 2016 Rules for July 11th & 16th
-All compact vehicles will follow the same safety rules and regulations listed in the general
rule section.
-105” wheel base. NO EXCEPTIONS!!!
. No full framed vehicles .
-No V8 engines allowed in compact .
Below you will find the list of options you have to build a car, if you choose to alter the stock
configurations. We absolutely will not work with a driver to get a car into the show. Do not read these
rules trying to find grey areas and do not read between the lines because you are only setting yourself
up to be pissed. We will enforce these rules very, very strictly and the Head Inspector’s say is final!
-Absolutely no engine/trans protectors, radiator protectors (other than a stock A.C. condenser, or any
other homemade parts to make a vehicle stronger. You will be allowed a gas tank protector but it must
not touch the firewall and no wider than 30 inches. If running a minivan your gas tank and/or gas tank
protector may be no farther than 36” from the rear spreader bar at any point.
-All suspension must be factory make/model for the vehicle.
-4 point cage is strongly recommended. You may run 4 downlegs to the body or the frame but these
must remain in between the front door inner seams.
-You may replace the core support mounts with ¾” althread and run them up through the hood. No
sleeving is allowed. If your vehicle doesn’t have mounts, the althread must be welded to the backside of
the core support. You may also run 2 pieces of ¾” althread through the trunk lid. They may be welded to
the side of the frame. They must be placed on the flat part of the trunk pan and ran vertical.
-Doors and trunk lid may be welded solid with 4”x1/8” strap. No stacking or overlapping. Must have a
12” inspection hole in trunk lid!!! If you choose not to weld trunk you may use 8 double stranded spots
of #9 wire but must be body to body only. Hoods may have 8 spots of double stranded 9 wire. 1”
hardware washers may be welded around the holes for the wire to pass through.
-Five 3/8” bolts with hardware washers only per wheel well.
-No more than ten 3/8” bolts to bolt the outer hood skin to the inner hood skin.
-Any O.E.M. bumper may be used and it may be loaded on the inside if you choose.
-Homemade bumper brackets are allowed but no bigger than 2”x2” tubing. You may not weld or bolt
past 6” behind the factory core support mount hole. If your vehicle doesn’t have a core support mount
we will measure from the vertical part of core support directly above the frame rail. We don’t want
bumpers falling off!!
-Absolutely no welding besides what is stated in the rules.
-The only acceptable rust repair is for your feet, seat, gas tank, tranny cooler and battery box. Don’t get
carried away or you won’t run!!
-Pre-rans will be allowed 4 plates on visible bends, 4”x6”x1/4” max size.
-All factory frame and body seams can be welded solid. Single pass and no added metal.*
-Front suspensions may be locked. If you need to weld strap to your frame in order to do so, keep it
minimal. If we feel you are using it to strengthen your frame you will need to cut it in order to run.
-In addition to the 2 pieces of althread in the core support you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the
hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double
stranded #9 wire in 8 spots. It must be body to body only.
-You may also run double stranded #9 wire from the front bumper to the hood or core support in 4
places only.
Powerwheels
Vigo County Fair Rules For 2016 Fair July 11th & 16th
-Ages 4-9
-$5.00 Entry Fee
-All participants will receive a Praticpation Award.
-Battery may be replaced with a single 12 volt battery only. May be relocated but must be
covered.
-Doors and hoods may be secured shut with bungee cords or rope (not required).
-Must sit just like it did when it was new. No larger or smaller tires may be substituted.
-Helmet is mandatory.
-Absolutely NO motorcycle, tractor, or 3 wheeler type powerwheels
DEMOLITION DERBY RULES & REGULATIONS
FOR MODIFIED, COMPACT, and TRUCKS!
For any questions call Dave Utterback at 812-243-7374
Modified
Vigo County Fair Rules For 2016 Fair July 11th & 16th
Aftermarket control arms allowed with rubber
Front plate may be on any side of frame
Aftermarket Spindles allowed
Bumpers 9X9 only
Make your own hump plates
Safety plates from cage to floor
Automatic load for items listed, buy a tape measure
- NO BLACK CARS, at any show in any class, No dark colors without contrasting lettering scheme. All cars must be painted, this is a premier event and we expect your cars to look sharp.
- All vehicles must have a roof sign, Minimum 15" x 15", Maximum 24" x 24", contrasting colors. -These may not be positioned in such a way as to strengthen the car. Official’s decision is final.
- No Imperials, any year, Imperial sub frames, Ambulances, Hearses or limousines allowed.
- All bodies must be mounted on stock OEM frames for that year and make of car.
- NO PAINTING, BUFFING, OILING OR UNDERCOATING OF FRAMES. THESE CARS WILL NOT BE INSPECTED OR ALLOWED TO COMPETE.
- Driver must wear helmet, seat belt and eye protection at all times.
- All vehicles must have a fire extinguisher mounted within the drivers reach, inside the car.
- All Drivers must pick up trophies, earnings at the completion of the event, or forfeit them. They will not be available after that date.
- These are not suggestions. This is NOT a menu. This is what is allowed as far as preparation of the car. Please do not try to read anything more into these rules. “THIS IS WHAT YOU ARE ALLOWED TO DO TO PREPARE YOUR CAR.”
COMPETITION RULES:
- Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet, seatbelt and eye protection on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.
- Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rules. If you use the door defense repeatedly you will be disqualified.
- No hot rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.
- Any open door will be cause disqualification, you are allowed one fire, and then second fire will be cause for disqualification.
- Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show, put one on for them!
- You must make AGGRESSIVE HIT every 60 seconds.
- You will be given ample time for restarts. We do not use the clock exclusively. We try to work with you if you are hung up. Hitters get more time than sandbaggers.
- This is not a team event; team driving will not be tolerated.
- THERE IS NO ALCOHOL IN THE PITS. This includes pit crews. If you or ANY of your crew is caught with alcohol, you will be disqualified.
- All cars are subject to a post race inspection before any prize money is awarded.
- You must be a driver to protest, the fee is $250 and you must have cash in hand. This protest must take place immediately at the conclusion of the feature event. The protesting driver must have competed in the same class as the driver he is protesting.
- Any questions, CALL FIRST. Don’t assume anything. The Officials decision is final.
CAR BUILDING GUIDELINES:
GENERAL PREPARATION:
- All glass, plastic and pot metal must be removed. Nothing may remain in the bottoms of the trunk or doors.
- All outer hardware must be removed - door handles, mirrors, chrome, moldings, screws, fiberglass, etc. No added weight to any car.
- Rear seats in all cars and all decking in station wagons must be removed.
- Front seats must be securely bolted to the floor, however, these bolts may NOT go thru the frame! You must have a functioning seat belt.
- All flammable materials must be removed from the car other than safety padding and the driver’s seat.
- No fresh sedagon or wedge cars are allowed.
TIRES & BRAKES:
- No tires taller than 30". 4 wheels max per car. No duals.
- No split rims, studded tires or 100% solid wheels, you may use aftermarket center with various bolt patterns, solid centers are fine.
- Valve stem protectors allowed, wheel weights must be removed. Valve stem protectors may not extend more than 6 inches from valve stem. Not allowed to be a rim protector.
- Bead Locks okay on either side.
- Doubled or foam filled tires allowed.
- All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
- You may not change tires after inspection, ride height will be measured with your competition tires only.
BUMPERS, BUMPER BRACKETS:
********Bumper may not exceed 9’’x9’’.************
- BUMPERS are interchangeable for all cars.
-BUMPER-IF you start with a stock/replacement bumper you are allowed to re-enforce inside of bumper. Also, bumpers must start and stop at the end of the frame. Bumper must appear stock from the stands with no spike or protruding items.
-All bumpers must have a factory skin, if your bumper will not fit in a factory skin, it is too big
- You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame
- Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires.
- Bumpers may be flipped (upside down).
MOUNTING:
You may mount your bumper one of two way, not both.
*First way is same as in past:
- You may shorten frame in front of mount but must utilize stock body mount hole.
- You may weld the bumper seams, bumper shocks and the brackets to the frame. You may not weld any further than 4 inches behind the radiator support AT ALL when mounting your front bumper brackets on any car. No bracket or welding may be done further than 4 inches behind the radiator support other than the top frame seam. – NO
EXCEPTIONS!
- If you choose not to use brackets, you may weld your bumper directly to the frame.
- You may not weld the bumper to the body at any time.
- Compression bumper shocks may be drained, slid back into the shock and welded fully.
- You may not reconfigure a bracket or change shock mount location.
- Only shocks allowed inside frames are the original shock and configuration from factory.
- No REAR bumper brackets allowed on front. - You are not allowed to plug weld frame holes on BOP cars.
- Buick, Olds and Pontiacs may fill the large hole in the frame behind the radiator support. This must be a butt fit, 1 pass weld only. NO overlap allowed. - (2-straps 1-Per side )You may weld a 2" x 6" x 1/4" strap from the bumper to the frame to help keep the bumper on the car
This must remain in one piece. It cannot be angled to the corner of the bumper to form a kicker. 6" is the maximum length.
**OR**(pick one not both)
*Second method to mount bumper:
- Remove all brackets and shocks and discard.
- Leave forward radiator support mount in stock location (bolted/floating mounts such as Cadillac may be welded to frame in stock location.
- You may shorten frame in front of mount but must utilize stock body mount hole.
-You may weld core support spacer to bumper
- (2 plates 1 per side) You May weld a 4 inch wide by 3/8 thick plate from bumper to forward most part of top A-arm bracket , any outside frame side(top/bottom/inner/outer) you pick, nothing inside. Do exceed. - You may run 4 loops of #9 wire from the radiator support to the bumper in 2 locations outside of the radiator - You may weld (2)- 2" x 6" x 1/4" strap( per side) from the rear bumper to the frame to help keep the bumper on the car.
- You may also run 2 pieces of all thread 5/8" x no more than 14" thru the body pan to help hold the rear bumper on. 5" washer maximum for this bolt.
- Bumper height must be 16" to 22" measured to the bottom of the frame at the back and front body mount location.
- Nothing may be inside frame, and do not "Great Stuff" between frame and radiator support mount.
Any questions call first
FRAMES:
************ If you weld anything to your frame not in our rules, you will be LOADED!!!!! No exceptions!!!!!**************
- The only frame welding allowed is from the front of the a-arms forward( top side only) do not reweld A-arm brackets to frame, , no more than ONE ½" wide bead .
- The bumper strap to frame welding is covered in the bumper section.
- NO other frame welding is allowed. No plating, stuffing, heat treating or foam filling of frames is allowed. Do NOT paint or undercoat your frame or you will not even be inspected and loaded. We want to see all welds bare, DO NOT PAINT!
- You may weld your motor mounts to the engine cradle, not to the frame rails.
- Rear frame rails may not be shortened. No dowel pinning of the frame is allowed.
- You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but do NOT weld the cut.
- You may run a chain or cable or #9 wire from rear rail to rear rail behind the rear humps. 3/8" chain maximum.
- You may chain or wire your axle to the frame hump. You may NOT use strapping of any kind for this. Wire or chain only. 3/8" chain maximum. Chain must go around frame on full frame cars, do not bolt through hump creating a frame pin, and except uni-body cars may use 1 bolt per side thru the frame for this.
- You may not weld the chain links to create a bar effect.
- frame shaping is allowed But no Material added.
-Hump plates may be added to any coil sprung cars, may be ¼ inch thick max, 22" long by 6 inches tall and must be centered and in hump. You may make or buy your own. You may plug weld. These may not be welded on in a way to impede any natural rear-end movement.
BODY BOLTS:
- All body bolts may be replaced with up to 5/8" bolts, maximum 8" length.
- Core support bolts may be 1" diameter. Core support bolts may go thru the hood and count as 2 of your 6 hood bolts.
- You may use pipe up to 2" OD to run the core support all thread thru for spacers. These pipes may be welded to the core support using 3/16" strapping, 2 -4" pcs. Max per pipe.
- Body Washers and body spacers must be free floating Do not weld.
- Do NOT weld the body washers to the floor. Maximum washer size is 5" x 3/16".
- Space must be maintained between the body and the frame; Minimum 3/4".
- Do not bolt the body directly to the frame.
- You may add 2 body mounts in the position of your choice. They must be welded to outside frame only.
- If your station wagon came with the body bolts in the humps, these are your 2 additional mounts. You will NOT be allowed to add more mounts.
- If you decide to bolt your coil springs in place thru the frame and the rear package tray, these will count as your added mounts.
- Wagons are permitted to run 2 of the rear 4 mounts thru the rear pillars. NOT THE ROOF. They must be in the pillar at the tailgate area.
- Chrysler products may run 1" all thread behind the radiator support, but must drill a hole in the frame to bolt the all thread.
- Do not weld anything to the frame, all items must free float.
RADIATORS, RADIATOR SUPPORTS:
- Radiator must be in the stock position in front of the motor.
- Radiator supports must remain in the stock location, DO NOT MOVE.
- OEM style radiators only, no homemade tube construction radiators.
- You may not add cooling capacity. No supplemental cooling devices allowed.
- Expanded metal in front of radiator must be 1/8 inch or less thickness, and only attached in 4 spots (3/8 bolts or 4 - 1 inch welds).
- Core support spacers must stay on top of frame
BATTERIES:
- A maximum of 2 - 12 volt batteries may be used.
- They must be secured inside the car in front of the passenger seat and covered.
- Rusted out holes in your floor sheet metal may be patched where components will be mounted or for drivers safety, sheet metal only. No other sheet metal patching is allowed unless it is a safety issue. You may not patch clean and solid floors.
- No oversized mount plates or boxes. Do not mount anything within 6 inches of any body bolt. (Exception of center body mount in belly rail)
- Do not mount batteries against firewall or crush boxes, position as far back as possible.
- No floor mount component may structurally enhance the car.
FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEMS:
- No plastic gas tanks allowed. Marine tank or metal fuel tank only.
- 10+ gallon tank recommended. No coffins, be reasonable!]
- Gas must be centered in cage for maximum safety and minimal structural enhancement.
-Gas tank may be attached to floor or cage not both
-Gas tank mount may not exceed 32’’wide.. If mounted to the floor (NOTHING MAY KICK UP REAR FIREWALL OR PACKAGE TRAY)
- Original gas tanks must be removed from the car.
- You must have the gas tank securely mounted behind the driver’s seat and it must be covered.
- Fuel lines must run inside the car, not under the car along the frame.
- Fuel lines must be secured to the floor and kept from pinch points
- Automotive pump gas only, NO ALCOHOL.
- Electric fuel pumps are allowed. They must be covered and have an on/off switch near the steering wheel and clearly marked in large letters.
- All lines must be double clamped.
- If your gas tank or way of mounting is not safe you will not run!
ENGINES:
- Any engine may be used in any car, but it must be mounted within 5" of the original motor.
- You may chain the motor, Chains may not be attached any higher than cylinder heads, header flanges of engine plates. 1 Chain per side, 3/8 max
- You may weld in additional supports to the engine cradle area, but they may not be attached to the frame rails at any point. Only allowed for holding engine in place.Do not cover any seams with weld or plate.
- All hoses must be covered in driver’s compartment for driver safety
- No engine oil coolers are allowed.
- You must have an air cleaner over the carburetor at all times.
- No starting fluid is allowed.
- Mopar’s or K member cars are allowed to secure K member in the following ways:
->Remove pucks and bolt tight to frame, stock size bolts only.
->Leave pucks in between and weld 4 - 3 inch welds, total (not per side) of 12 inches only.
DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTORS/CRADLES:
- If you run a DP do not mount your dash bar closer than 5 inches to the rear most point of the firewall/cowl, YOU WILL NOT RUN. An will not be able to fix at the track
- Distributor protectors allowed, must be attached to engine or transmission only, back side that contacts the firewall must be no wider than 12 inches, must not contact cage before, during or after the event. It may not be welded, bolted or connected to body, hood or frame. Forward supports must be inside normally positioned headers and not extend past the water pump mount bolts.
- Aftermarket Distributor protectors, cradles and pulley protectors are allowed.
- You may beat flat the engine side of the firewall only, do not weld or bolt firewall. Do not re-enforce the firewall/cowl. Do not crease, paint, bolt, weld on, weld to or modify the firewall/cowl in any way.
- Mid plates and front plates must not extend further that 2.5 inch past engine or transmission. Any part of protector contacting or will contact dash must be less than 12 inches wide.
- Lower cradles must mount similar to a factory mount, any bars connecting mid plate to cradle must be below the cylinder heads.
- Pulley protectors must not extend more than 8 inches.
- Any cable routing tubes must maintain the 5 inch gap to dash bar.
- Keep protector within reason! Vince has final say!
TRANSMISSIONS:
- Transmissions must be of passenger car origin, transmission coolers may be used, but they must be secured in such a way to prevent injury.
- Metal or braided lines must be used. No fuel or low-pressure lines may be used.
- Coolers must be secured in a container in the passenger compartment of the car.
-Transmission protectors are allowed with the following criteria:
- They may not rise more than 1 inch above the highest point of the bell housing, including the attachment point
- They may not attach or brace to the cross member, frame, or any part of the cage components
- They may be fabricated of tubing or round stock of no greater OD than 3/4
- If flat material is used, it can be no thicker than 3/8. These components may not be used in tandem to create a material thicker than either of these measurements.
- Trans blanket is recommended.
- OEM Tran cross member or No bigger than 3"x3". Must be mounted with at least a 1/4 space from all trans protector components.
- Cross member may not exceed factory curves(less than 6 inch bow)
- You may weld or bolt a 3’’x 3’’ inch angle iron to inside frame, 5 inches max to facilitate the mounting of cross member.
- Center mount may not exceed a normal Trans mount bolt area 6 inch max, no additional bracing allowed.
SKID PLATES:
- Skid plates are allowed. They may be one piece from engine to transmission.
- They may not extend past oil pan or transmission pan. Don’t connect to transmission cross member. Must be 1 inch space.
- NO bolting or welding the skid plate to the frame.
REAR ENDS:
**You may run 10 lug or floater rear ends. No part of rear end may strengthen the car’s frame or body in any way.
- You may use any type of rear end (Ford / Mopar / GM / Hybrid).
- You may tilt the rear end by lengthening or shortening the trailing arms. OEM Trailing arms must be of passenger car origin and may be reinforced.
Aftermarket trailing arms may be used but must contain a rubber bushing.
- Rear end braces are allowed, but they may serve no purpose other than to strengthen the rear end housing. They may not extend from the rear end further than 6” and may not be higher than the top of the axle tube.
HOODS:
- Hoods may be bolted, wired or chained shut ONLY.
- You may use 6 bolts top hold the hood, front two may be 1" max, other 5/8” or less.
- The 2 front bolts may go thru the frame, NOT welded to the frame. The other 4 must be sheet metal to sheet metal.
- If you use chain or wire, you may weld up to 5" washers to the hood. If bolting, the 5" washers must be free floating.
-You may install up to 12 - 3/8" bolts or self-tapping screws in hood.
- NO welding of cut outs is allowed.
- You must have a minimum 10" hole in the hood for fire protection.
- Hoods must be open at inspection time.
DOORS:
- Doors may be welded Solid, outside only (this means no straps should be touching another strap) 3" x 1/8" strap maximum.
-You may smash the inner and outer skin together and weld them solid, NO added metal. This includes wagon tailgates
- If you do not weld your doors you must chain or #9 wire them closed in at least 2 spots. You may NOT bolt your doors shut.
- Drivers door may have window netting for driver’s safety. NO other windows may have netting.
- You may weld a plate Maximum 6" x 1/4" across the front doors for protection, not to exceed 6" beyond the front door seams. NO GRADER BLADES. These plates must be in the center of the door, run horizontally.
- Wagon tail gates may be welded:
1. 5 on 5 off, not solid,
**OR**
2. you may bolt the tailgate as in previous years. 4 bolts, 4 nuts, 3/4” max
**OR**
3.you may weld 5” pieces of angle to the tailgate and quarters and use 3/4 “ max bolts pick 1 not all 3.
WINDOWS:
- You must have a piece of rebar/all thread/chain (3/8 max),#9 wire or 3”X 1/4”max flat straps. No angle or tubing running from the roof to the cowl in the windshield area for drivers protection - 2-1/2 bolts per mounting location , up to 2 pieces max. - This may not be designed as reinforcement to the car and must be space at least 18 inches apart on the bottom, and no cross connections. -No other added metal or mount plates, either weld directly or bolt to sheet metal only. No component may be mounted, welded or bolted within 6 inches of the DP.
- You may use 2 loops, 4 strands of #9 wire total in each window opening. This wire may go to or around the frame.
- Station Wagons may not use wire in any window opening beyond the rear passenger door window opening.
- The wire must remain in the field of that window. They may not crisscross the interior of the car.
- Window bars 2"x2" Max, 6" on roof 6"on Trunk.
Body:
- Body creasing, enhancing of existing body lines and addition of body lines is allowed to the sides of the car only. - Do not fold the metal over to create a doubled effect; any spot with 4 layers of sheet metal will be torched out completely. Trunk lid seams must be clearly visible and accessible.
- No doubling of body panels allowed, no added metal allowed
- Quarter panels must remain vertical. Tail light valances must remain vertical.
- NO SEAM WELDING other than the exterior driver’s doors.
- Core support seam welding is NOT allowed.
- Washers for #9 Wire may be welded to the roof sheet metal. They may be a maximum of 1 ½" diameter. **No washers may be welded for future wire installation.
- Holes may be cut in the floor & firewall to accommodate the shifter, fuel lines, and transmission lines.
- You may cut a hole in the firewall to accommodate the engine, within reason must have fire wall covered. With rubber or nonflammable material.
- You may have up to 5 - 3/8" bolts in each wheel opening. They may not be higher than 5" above the stock lip location of the wheel opening.
CAGES & DOOR BARS:
- You may use channel or tubing up to 6" for the door bars. Total length is not to exceed 60". This bar may not be more than 18" behind the center post on 4 door cars and 10" behind the door seam on 2 door cars - No exceptions.
- Dash bar and seat bars may not exceed 6" diameter 1 bar max per side. No double bars. Seat bar must be no further than 6" behind the seat. All bars must be straight pieces no contoured pieces.
-If you run a DP do not mount your dash bar closer than 5 inches to the rear most point of the firewall/cowl, YOU WILL NOT RUN. - -Sedans only, are allowed a gas tank protector, 24” X 6” inches, centered in the back seat area. All interior sheet metal must remain in stock position. Do not pound!
- You may add a diagonal bar behind the driver’s seat and directly below the seat bar running from the seat bar to the floor sheet metal.
- You may add 4 total VERTICAL down bars. They must measure at least 8 in length and be attached to the bottom of the side bars or seat bar do not add to the end or the side bars , must maintain a TOTAL of 60 inches or less for side bars., welded to your door bar and to the floor sheet metal. These bars may not attach to or conceal a body mount, or be within 5 inches of any body mount or plate.
- No kickers, angled or otherwise. NO cage components may be welded to the frame. 4 Down rights, welded to frame.
- All horizontal cage components must be at least 8" off the floor of the car, including gas tank protector, side bars measured at the body bolt elevation, dash bar measured at trans tunnel.
- All cage components must be in the interior of the car, not inside the door structure with the exception of the driver’s side. This door bar MAY be inside the door structure to allow more room for driver’s safety.
- All gussets must be on the interior of the 4 point cage.
- You may run a 1/4 solid plate from cage to floor and may extend 1 inch past inner door seam for welding. May be welded solid on all four sides. PASS Front an DRIVERS Front only doors only!!
HALO OR ROLLOVER BARS:
- You must add a halo bar to the cage components listed above. It may not exceed 5" in diameter.
- On a 4-door post car, this bar must attach the side bar in line with seat bar, no exceptions.
- On a 2-door or 4-door non-post car, this bar may be attached to the floor sheet metal.
- Halo bars must be in a direct vertical line with the seat bar.
- Halo bars may NOT be angled toward the rear of the car. They must be vertical.
-You may bolt the halo bar to the roof sheet metal in 2 places.
TRUNK LIDS:
- Trunk lids must remain 50% in the stock location. The trunk lid must remain on hinges.
- You may fasten your trunk lid in ALL OF THE FOLLOWING 3 ways:
1. You may weld Solid 3" x 1/8" strap max.
- AND -
2. You may weld 4 pcs. of 5/8" all thread vertically to the rear frame rails and run them thru the trunk lid. No double nutting. You may use a 5" washer on the trunk lid bolts, plates may not be welded and must be free-floating.
- AND -
3. You may place up to 8 - 3/8" bolts in the drip rail area of the trunk lid OR around inspection holes.
- There must be 12" minimum hole in the trunk lid for inspection purposes.
- Trunk lid seams must be clearly visible and accessible, do not pound over.
- Relocation of the speaker deck is not allowed it must remain in stock/factory location. -No Relocating of any sheet metal components. (DO NOT REMOVE HINGS OR SPEAKER DECK) -Your trunk lid may be V’ed in the center but must remain 12 inches off trunk floor at body mount location; speaker deck can be 10 inches at body mount location will be measured at speaker holes.
- No fully wedged cars, rear quarters and tail light valance must remain vertical. (Stop trunk lid at the top of valance) if trunk lid is any lower than the tail light valance you will have to raise it.
*80’s and newer
- You may pitch, tilt or tip 80’s and newer style cars in 1 of the 3 following ways only:
1. You may cold pitch, no added metal
2. You may cut all four flaps and pull the front end down moving the flap ½ inch and re-weld. Do not re-weld any other crush box seams, no added metal.
3. You may pitch at the transmission cross member, since you are already allowed to weld a 5 inch piece of angle there to mount your cross member.
*98 and newer
- Watts-link conversion for Fords. You may convert a Watts-Link to a standard 4 link system in the following way: Use the upper and lower trailing arm brackets off an older Ford. After market brackets are allowed, but no thicker than ¼ inch and may be attached with max of (5)-1/2 and 2-3/4 – bolts each side. No positioning of brackets to strengthen the front down legs of the rear hump, must be mount in the stock location.
- Any watts link brackets not utilized may not be altered to reinforce frame.
*03s and newer
- All material used must not exceed 1/4 inch thickness.
- You must provide a one inch inspection hole in spring bucket, you may weld 1 inch washer around it.
- Must run the original aluminum cradle and stock lower A-arm. Aluminum cradle must be visible, do not wrap entire cradle, bottom straps limited to 8 inches flat straps.
- Upper A arm, motor mounts and spring bucket must mount off the 2 existing cradle bolts. No frame welding allowed for these components.
- No mounting plate or component may extend more than 2 inch in front of or behind the cradle bolts, measured from middle of of the bolt, this rule will be strictly enforced.
-You may use any automotive or fabricated spring bucket but it must not strengthen the frame in any way, cannot not be larger than necessary to hold coil spring. Again must be mounted off 2 existing cradle bolts. DO NOT weld to frame in any way.
- No pinning of frame. YOU WILL BE LOADED NO CHANCE TO FIX!!!!
- To mount steering box, you may weld a tube to the top and bottom of frame. Do not weld excessively, do not pin frame to mount the steering box.
- Do not weld any seams behind the A-arm, even if the factory skip welded the seam, do not weld!
- If you choose to pitch, this must be done at the Trans cross member only.
- You may cut the excess frame off the front rails but you may not move the front body mount. All body mounts must remain in stock location.
SUSPENSION, SPRINGS:
- NO SUSPENSION PART MAY REINFORCE FRAME
- any after-mark or OEM automotive spindle accepted.
- No coil to leaf conversions in compact class, homemade hump plates only (not supplied)
- Leaf springs must be in the factory position.
- You may change coil springs
- Suspension must be factory car suspension unless stated otherwise.
- You may NOT remove the shocks and put pipe or all thread in their place.
- You may weld or bolt or chain down your A-arms, pick one and only one.
- All chains, bolts or welds must be in the middle of the A-arm.
- If you run 80s Ford or GM A-arms on 98-02 Ford you may replace the factory center bar to the bolt heads only. No welding on frame.
1. You are allowed 2- 2” x 3’’ max strap welded per A-Arm, nothing may contact the frame rail, and all attachments must be made to spring bucket only. 1’’ON ARM 1’’ON SPRING BUCKET
**OR**
2. One chain, welded to spring bucket only.
**OR**
3. One bolt per side welded to spring bucket only, may hold upper or lower A-arm, but not both.
- No spring spacers may be used
- You may not plate, reconfigure or re-enforce A-arms
- You may reinforce your tie rods, but you must use the OEM tie rod ends.
- Pipe Tie Rods are allowed but you must use the stock ends, no aftermarket hiems.
- Steering wheel to Steering gearbox may be modified.
- Aftermarket steering columns allowed.
- Shock absorbers must be factory replacement for that year, make and model of car.
- No truck shocks, no exotic shocks, no mystery shocks, no oversized shocks.
- Air shock lines must be cut.
LEAF SPRINGS:
- 9 leaf maximum, 5/16 " max thickness, 2 ½" wide maximum.
- 58" minimum, 60" maximum spring length.
- Stagger - 3" long side (rear of axle), 2" short side (front of axle).
- 5 clamps per spring, 2 in front of the axle, 3 behind the axle.
- Clamp material 1/4" thick, 2" wide, 2 – 3/8" bolts per clamp.
- U-bolts - 1/2" maximum
- No homemade mounting plates or oversized U-bolts will be allowed.
- No welding on the spring pack
- No flat sprung cars - leaf pack must have a minimum of 2" of arch.
- No duct taping of springs prior to inspection.
- Postal Mopar brackets are excepted (only 4- 1/2 bolts) when mounting spring to rear-end stay tight to rear-end like factory
Coil Sprung cars are allowed the following:
Leaf Convert(not allowed on compacts)(no hump plates allowed):
-Any rear end - 10 lugs are ok
- 9 leaf maximum, 5/16 " max thickness, 2 ½" wide maximum.
- 54" minimum, 60" maximum spring length.
- Stagger - 3" long side (rear of axle), 2" short side (front of axle).
- 5 clamps per spring, 2 in front of the axle, 3 behind the axle.
- Clamp material 1/4" thick, 2" wide, 2 – 3/8" bolts per clamp.
- U-bolts - 1/2" maximum
- No homemade mounting plates or oversized U-bolts will be allowed.
- No welding on the spring pack
- No flat sprung cars - leaf pack must have a minimum of 2" of arch.
- No duct taping of springs prior to inspection.
- Rear mount - 6X6X1/4" shackle, has to be a working shackle in rear.
-Front eyelet mount, pick ONE:
1. In trailing arm bracket, w/3x3x1/4" gusset
2. In the frame with a bolt thru - no added metal
3. Box welded to the frame 4X6X1/4" maximum, must mounted at lower control arm bolt.
-No all-thread struts, must have shock absorbers.
-NO ADDED METAL OTHER THAN WHAT IS SPECIFIED ABOVE. NO EXCEPTIONS.
**INSPECTION PROCEDURES:
- Official’s decisions are final.
- You will be given one (1) opportunity to correct items on your car.
- Each car gets a maximum of 2 times thru inspection. (0ne re inspect)
- Cars will be impounded after inspection and staged in a secure location.
- You must be completely ready to bolt the hood down during inspection and then put the car in the staging area.
- No further work will be allowed and cars will not be allowed to return to their trailers.
- Do not come to the inspection line if you are not done preparing your car.
- Any added or welded metal plate/rod or material not specifically covered in the rules, will be removed completely as well as the surrounding metal. Don’t do it or your car will be weakened! Call ahead!
STOCK CLASS
Vigo County Fair Rules For 2016 Fair July 11th & 16th
-Absolutely no: Distributor protectors, radiator guards (other than stock A.C. condenser), tranny
protectors.
Frames:
-No seam welding, pinning, filling, stuffing or painting!!
-You may patch a rust hole on the frame but it cannot be bigger than 4”x6” and it will count as one of
your 4 allowed plates. Must be able to verify it was needed.
-No frame shaping allowed other than 12 inches in the center of the hump. 6 inches in front of axle
centerline and 6 inches behind. If you take it to the point of ripping or tearing the metal you will not be
allowed to weld it back up. That’s your fault not ours.
-The only allowed method of pitching a car is to cold bend it, no exceptions!!
-Pre ran’s will be allowed 4 plates. Plates only allowed on a visible bend or rust hole and cannot be
bigger than a 4”x6”x1/4”. If you go bigger be prepared to cut!!!
-You are allowed to #9 wire the frame rails together in one spot behind the humps. No more than triple
stranded.
Bumper/Bumper Mounting:
-Homemade pointy bumpers must have a tapered point that closely resembles a Chrysler pointy bumper
-Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges.
-Any front bumper bracket may be used on any car. If you choose to, you may make your shocks out of
2”x2” tubing.
-Absolutely no bracket or shock may be welded past 6 inches behind the factory core support mount
hole on the frame rail. If your cars factory shock or bracket goes farther than 6 inches back, it must
remain completely factory beyond the allotted 6 inches.
-If you choose to hard nose or put your shock inside the frame you MUST have a ¾” hole in the top
center of your frame 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. (Unless we
can clearly see the shock stops where it’s supposed to) You may weld a ¾” hardware washer around the
hole to make up for the missing metal. Single pass only!!!
-Suicide Lincolns and cars that have no core support mount must only go 6 inches past the vertical part
of core support right above the frame rail when mounting the bumper.
-Rear bumper brackets may be welded, single pass only. Absolutely no rear bracket may be moved
forward.
Suspension:
- Everything must be factory make for the car. You may upgrade to stiffer/taller coil springs. A-arms and
spindles may be changed but must stay Ford to Ford or GM to GM. No homemade or aftermarket parts.
One exception is 98 and newer Ford cars may do the Watts Link conversion, with ZTR style brackets. No
additional metal may be added other than the brackets themselves.
-Tie rods can be welded up, but no added metal or bracing.
-Steering box swaps are allowed, but absolutely no welding on the frame. Keep the mounts minimal. If
we feel your using your steering box mount to strengthen frame you will not run.
-Aftermarket steering shafts allowed.
-Cars must bounce.
-Rear trail arms cannot be shortened, lengthened, or braced in any way whatsoever. You may weld a
single hardware washer around the rear hole of the upper control arms. Single pass only!!
-Rear end may be chained or wired in one spot per frame rail. Must be straight over the center of the
axle and NOT welded to the frame.
-Factory size, number and stagger will apply to cars with factory leaf springs. You may add 2 clamps in
front of rear axle and 3 in rear. Max of 2 bolts per clamp. Bolts can’t be bigger 3/8” and clamps can only
be 2 inches wide. No welding or duct taping of springs.
Drivetrain:
-Any motor or transmission in any vehicle.
-Engine cradles are allowed, but must not go past the third spark plug from the front. All your basic
Robbo, Big Rock, XXX cradles are allowed.
-If you choose to run a pulley protector, you must remove the sway bar between the frame rails.
-Solid lower engine mounts are allowed. If you need to weld plates under your lower mounts because
they won’t sit on the engine crossmember that’s fine, but they must not be attached to the frame rails.
-If you choose to chain your engine in, the chains must only be attached to the engine and straight down
to engine cross member.
-Skid plates must be just for the pan they are protecting and can’t extend more than a ½” from there
pan.
-You may run an aluminum ultra bell on automatics. Manual transmissions may run a blow proof bell
housing. No additional bolts or welding permitted.
-If you choose to not run the factory transmission cross member you may use 2”x2” tubing instead. It
must mount in factory make and model location. No plates bigger than 4”x4” welded to the frame to
weld your cross member to!!!
-If you’re using a bolt on style transmission mount, it must be an O.E.M. rubber mount. If you choose to
not run a mount you may wrap chain or wire around transmission and cross member to hold it in place.
NO WELDING and only one bolt if you choose the wire or chain route.
-If your car is factory equipped with a floating cross member (example: mid 70’s Fords and 74 and older
Cadillacs) you may add TWO 5/8” bolts and bolt it solid to floor. Washers cannot exceed 4”x4”
diameter!!! This will be extremely strictly enforced!!!
-Slider shafts are allowed.
-Any factory car or truck rear end is allowed. No rear-ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup permitted
and only one wheel per side of rear end. You may weld brackets on the rear end to accommodate the
vehicles factory suspension style. When building brackets for the upper ears you may not go any wider
than 16 inches from center on either side to mount the upper ears. (So 32” total mount area)
-Rear end braces must not be wider than 32” at the widest point.
Cage:
-4 point cages are allowed. Must be a minimum of 6 inches above the factory body mount height.
-4 down legs are allowed to the frame, but must only be located in between the front door inner seams.
-Down legs off of the cage that attach to the body must be no further back than the rear spreader and
no further forward than the front door inner seam.
-Roll over bars must be vertical and no farther back than the rear spreader bar (maximum of 6 inches
behind the seat). You will only be allowed to attach bar to roof with 2 bolts no bigger than 1 inch.
Washers must not exceed 4”x4”.
-Gas tank protectors are allowed but must remain 10 inches from the rear firewall and no more than 30
inches wide, and in the center of the car. It can be bolted to the floor if NOT attached to the cage.
Body Mounts:
-You may replace the 2 body mounts in the core support and the 4 in the trunk pan only!!
-The 2 in the core support may be replaced with 1 inch althread and ran up through the hood. They may
be bolted solid. If you choose to run a spacer between core support and frame it can’t be bigger than
2”x2” tubing and must be free floating.
-The 4 rear body mounts can be bolted solid. 2 of those may have ¾ inch althread ran vertically through
the trunk lid. (Wagons may go vertically through the roof or pillars, but if you do that you may not use 2
pieces to hold the tailgate shut)
-You may weld a 4”x4” washer on top of the core support for the althread to pass through.
-No double nutting or sleeving of the althread.
-Mopars can either go through the frame or welded to the side. Must be on the flat part of the rear
frame under the trunk pan.
- All body mounts washers may not exceed 4”x4” diameter.
-Body mounts from the firewall to the humps may be changed if need be. Only in the factory locations.
The ONLY allowable substitution is to use a bolt no bigger than ½”. You must have the rubber bushing
WITH the steel sleeve and NOT be crushed or you may use a hockey puck. You must use hardware
washers only. NO homemade washers!*
Body:
-Sheet metal may be cut for clearance, but no bending, folding or reattaching anywhere.
-You may use five 3/8” bolts per wheel well opening. Hardware washers only. Absolutely no other
bolting of the body other than the bolts allowed in the hood.
-You’re allowed a maximum of 8 spots of double stranded #9 wire to hold hood and 8 spots of double
stranded #9 wire to hold trunk lid down. You may weld a 1 inch hardware washer around each hole to
keep from tearing. All wire must be body to body only.
-Wagon tailgates may have 8 spots of double stranded 9 wire and 2 pieces of ¾ althread, but the
althread must be through the body only and NOT the frame.
-The only acceptable rust repair on any car is allowed in the driver and passenger area. This is for safety
purposes only, and if we think you used this to strengthen the car for anything other than safety
purposes you will not be allowed to run.
-Doors may be welded solid with strap no bigger than 4”x1/8”. Tops of doors may be folded over and
welded but no added metal. Absolutely no other body seam welding beside doors!!!
-Hood and trunk lid must be open during inspection.
-You may run double stranded number 9 wire from quarter panel to quarter panel in trunk to keep the
quarters from blowing apart. Single hardware washers may be welded around holes only.
-No wedged cars allowed in old school class.
-Sedagons will be allowed but call for allowable tucking methods.
-In addition to the 2 pieces of althread in the core support you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the
hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double
stranded #9 wire in 8 spots. It must be body to body only.
-No more than ten 3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
-You will be allowed 4 spots of double stranded #9 wire from your hood/core support to your front
bumper.
-Body creasing is allowed, but absolutely no bolting or welding to assist.
Trucks
Vigo County Fair Rules For 2016 Fair July 11th & 16th
Trucks will follow all safety rules and regulations posted in the General Rules section.
Below you will find a list of the options you have to build a truck if you choose to alter the stock
configurations. We absolutely will not work with a driver to get a truck into the show. Do not read these
rules trying to find grey areas and do not read between the lines because you are only setting yourself
up to be pissed. We will enforce these rules very, very strictly and the Head Inspector’s say is final!
Absolutely no: Distributor protectors, radiator guards (other than stock A.C. condenser), tranny
protectors, or tranny case modifications. Also, absolutely no rear end bracing!!!
Frame:
-No pinning, plating, filling, stuffing or painting; other than what is allowed in our rules.
-Frame may be seam welded. Single pass only.
-Pre-rans are allowed 4 plates. Plates are only allowed on a visible bend and cannot be bigger than 4”x8”
max.
Bumper/Bumper Mounting:
-Homemade pointy bumpers must have a tapered point that closely resembles a Chrysler pointy bumper
-Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges.
-Any front bumper bracket may be used on any truck. If you choose to, you may make your shocks out
of 2”x2” tubing.
-Absolutely no bracket or shock may be welded past 6 inches behind the factory core support mount
hole on the frame rail. If your trucks factory shock or bracket goes farther than 6 inches back, it must
remain completely factory beyond the allotted 6 inches.
-Bumper height is a maximum of 28 inches to the bottom of the front bumper and a minimum of 18
inches to the bottom of the rear bumper.
Suspension:
-Front suspensions may be converted from coil spring design to leaf spring design. Keep the leaf springs
mounts minimal. Do not use them to strengthen the frame.
-Tie rods can be welded up but no additional metal can be added.
-You may add 2 clamps in front of the axle and 3 behind the axle. Max of 2 bolts per clamp. Bolts can’t
be bigger than 3/8” and clamps can only be 2” wide. No duct tape or welding on the springs.
-Aftermarket steering shafts are allowed.
-Solid front suspensions are allowed but do not use this to strengthen the frame or you will need to cut
it in order to run.
Drivetrain:
-Any motor or transmission in any vehicle.
-Pulley protectors allowed but the sway bar must be removed if there is a possibility of it coming in
contact with the pulley protector.
-Skid plates allowed but can’t extend more than a ½” from the pan they are protecting.
-Solid lower engine mounts are allowed.
-No transmission case modifications.
-Slider shafts are allowed.
-No rear ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup. If running a dually rear end you may only run one wheel
per side. No rear end bracing.
Cage:
-4 point cage allowed and highly recommended.
-Gas tank protectors allowed and is not to extend more than 36 inches from the front of the bed, but
can be full width of the bed.
Body:
-Doors may be welded solid and cab can be welded to bed. (please do both!!!)
-All body bolts can be replaced and bolted solid with no bolts bigger than ¾”. Only exception is you may
use 1” althread in the core support and run it up through the hood. 4”x4” maximum body mount washer
size.
-In addition to the 2 pieces of althread in the core support, you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the
hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double
stranded #9 wire in 8 spots. It must be body to body only.
-You may also run double stranded #9 wire from the front bumper to the hood or core support in 4
places only.*
-No more than 10 3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
-Tailgates may be welded solid.
-You may fold bedsides over from the wheel wells back and tailgate may be folded over. If you choose to
do so it may only be attached to bed floor with 8 double strands of number 9 wire.
-If you choose to “tuck” a suburban or other long roof vehicle you may only attach the roof to quarter
panels with 8 spots of double stranded 9 wire. Body to body only!!
-Five 3/8” bolts per wheel well. Hardware washers only.
-The only acceptable rust repair is in the cab floor and front of bed where gas tank mounts. This is for
safety purposes only. If you don’t follow this you simply will not run.
Compact
Vigo County Fair 2016 Rules for July 11th & 16th
-All compact vehicles will follow the same safety rules and regulations listed in the general
rule section.
-105” wheel base. NO EXCEPTIONS!!!
. No full framed vehicles .
-No V8 engines allowed in compact .
Below you will find the list of options you have to build a car, if you choose to alter the stock
configurations. We absolutely will not work with a driver to get a car into the show. Do not read these
rules trying to find grey areas and do not read between the lines because you are only setting yourself
up to be pissed. We will enforce these rules very, very strictly and the Head Inspector’s say is final!
-Absolutely no engine/trans protectors, radiator protectors (other than a stock A.C. condenser, or any
other homemade parts to make a vehicle stronger. You will be allowed a gas tank protector but it must
not touch the firewall and no wider than 30 inches. If running a minivan your gas tank and/or gas tank
protector may be no farther than 36” from the rear spreader bar at any point.
-All suspension must be factory make/model for the vehicle.
-4 point cage is strongly recommended. You may run 4 downlegs to the body or the frame but these
must remain in between the front door inner seams.
-You may replace the core support mounts with ¾” althread and run them up through the hood. No
sleeving is allowed. If your vehicle doesn’t have mounts, the althread must be welded to the backside of
the core support. You may also run 2 pieces of ¾” althread through the trunk lid. They may be welded to
the side of the frame. They must be placed on the flat part of the trunk pan and ran vertical.
-Doors and trunk lid may be welded solid with 4”x1/8” strap. No stacking or overlapping. Must have a
12” inspection hole in trunk lid!!! If you choose not to weld trunk you may use 8 double stranded spots
of #9 wire but must be body to body only. Hoods may have 8 spots of double stranded 9 wire. 1”
hardware washers may be welded around the holes for the wire to pass through.
-Five 3/8” bolts with hardware washers only per wheel well.
-No more than ten 3/8” bolts to bolt the outer hood skin to the inner hood skin.
-Any O.E.M. bumper may be used and it may be loaded on the inside if you choose.
-Homemade bumper brackets are allowed but no bigger than 2”x2” tubing. You may not weld or bolt
past 6” behind the factory core support mount hole. If your vehicle doesn’t have a core support mount
we will measure from the vertical part of core support directly above the frame rail. We don’t want
bumpers falling off!!
-Absolutely no welding besides what is stated in the rules.
-The only acceptable rust repair is for your feet, seat, gas tank, tranny cooler and battery box. Don’t get
carried away or you won’t run!!
-Pre-rans will be allowed 4 plates on visible bends, 4”x6”x1/4” max size.
-All factory frame and body seams can be welded solid. Single pass and no added metal.*
-Front suspensions may be locked. If you need to weld strap to your frame in order to do so, keep it
minimal. If we feel you are using it to strengthen your frame you will need to cut it in order to run.
-In addition to the 2 pieces of althread in the core support you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the
hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double
stranded #9 wire in 8 spots. It must be body to body only.
-You may also run double stranded #9 wire from the front bumper to the hood or core support in 4
places only.
Powerwheels
Vigo County Fair Rules For 2016 Fair July 11th & 16th
-Ages 4-9
-$5.00 Entry Fee
-All participants will receive a Praticpation Award.
-Battery may be replaced with a single 12 volt battery only. May be relocated but must be
covered.
-Doors and hoods may be secured shut with bungee cords or rope (not required).
-Must sit just like it did when it was new. No larger or smaller tires may be substituted.
-Helmet is mandatory.
-Absolutely NO motorcycle, tractor, or 3 wheeler type powerwheels
