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Post by chevykillerx13 on Oct 24, 2015 19:35:12 GMT -5
What is the strongest u joint front and rear for I'm assuming any Mopar? I've been using the 315G u joint and keep snapping them. This was in a diplomat.  |
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Post by fordpowerforever on Oct 27, 2015 13:32:32 GMT -5
i think you are pretty limited if your running 904 with the little yoke,,,
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Oct 28, 2015 21:50:02 GMT -5
Could the yoke be drilled out to accept a larger u joint? Or simply cut off and a different yoke be welded to the splined portion?
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swervin
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Post by swervin on Nov 21, 2015 18:40:24 GMT -5
Lift brake shift. Haven't broke 1 chrysler u-joint yet with that procedure. I run the 315g at the Trans and the bigger at the rear.
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Nov 30, 2015 22:51:28 GMT -5
Lift brake shift. Haven't broke 1 chrysler u-joint yet with that procedure. I run the 315g at the Trans and the bigger at the rear. I did. I was in reverse, hit a guy, thought the official waved a red flag so I stopped for a second or two, put it in low, made it about 20 yards and boom. I never shift while on the throttle. I also don't run rear breaks though... |
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Post by crusher71 on Dec 1, 2015 15:39:05 GMT -5
USE A U-JOINT WITHOUT A GREASE CHANNEL......PROBLEM SOLVED
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Post by klicky96 on Dec 1, 2015 22:28:15 GMT -5
USE A U-JOINT WITHOUT A GREASE CHANNEL......PROBLEM SOLVED A lot of people forever about the grease channel. |
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swervin
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Post by swervin on Dec 1, 2015 22:29:52 GMT -5
Lift brake shift. Haven't broke 1 chrysler u-joint yet with that procedure. I run the 315g at the Trans and the bigger at the rear. I did. I was in reverse, hit a guy, thought the official waved a red flag so I stopped for a second or two, put it in low, made it about 20 yards and boom. I never shift while on the throttle. I also don't run rear breaks though... That's the problem no rear brakes. Your u-joints are taking all the abuse. |
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99x
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Post by 99x on Dec 6, 2015 11:57:40 GMT -5
I could only assume it's for a stock class since your not updating to a slider but there is a way you yoy can make a drive shaft that will allow you bolt on application.
-If you have the funds to get a rearend flat plate yoke, buy one and install it $65-100
Go buy two 70-76 gm dual u-joint ended drive shafts with flat plating mounting $50 at most
Buy a slider tranny yoke, you will not be hard mounting this in the tranny... bear with me here $65-100
Cut the two drive shafts after find a happy medium in length where same as or a little but shorter than stock. And weld them together. Not directly in the middle..
Now slide the tranny yoke in all the way
bolt the driveshaft your rearend and slide the tranny yoke back out to the drive shaft and bolt that on.
It's not exactly stock but it's also not an aftermarket slider. But after adding it all up you will see a slider isn't that far out of reach compared to this type of set up that does work and does work well.
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Post by klicky96 on Dec 6, 2015 21:18:32 GMT -5
I believe it's all in the pitch that the driveshaft will be at. I try to make mine perfectly straight. I have one broke one joint, and it was the front joint from my 350th
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Dec 16, 2015 4:01:50 GMT -5
I'm fairly close to level on it. And my solution for it is a 2wd Chevy truck driveshaft that slides. One of them loophole deals, where its not an off the shelf slider, since it technically is stock. Only one promoter doesn't allow sliders in stock class, and even though its only one, I run a most of the time at their shows. Also, someone before me, like a jackass, tack welded the pinion nut to the pinion on my geared 8.75, thus eliminating any possibility for a slider without getting new gears.
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