Clinton County 4H Fair Second Derby July 17th @ 7pm (IN)

[jfaucett]

We have 9200.00 in guaranteed prize money!

Clinton County Demolition 4-H Fair Derby Frankfort, Indiana 46041

ENTRY:

40.00

WE WILL BE HAVING POWERWHEELS FOR THE KIDS TO DERBY
15.00 PIT PASS
8.00 GRANDSTANDS
KIDS FIVE AND UNDER FREE.

PAYOUT FOR PRO-MODS & STOCK CLASS:

1st: 1500.00
2nd. 700.00
3rd. 500.00
4th. 500.00
5th. 400.00
6th. 300.00
7th. 200.00
8th. 100.00
9th. 50.00
10th. 50.00

MINI CARS MINIMUM PAYOUT:

1ST. 300.00
2nd. 200.00
3RD. 100.00

Derby DATES:
Frankfort, Indiana Saturday May 30th at 6pm (Rain Date June 6)
Frankfort, Indiana Saturday July 11, 2015 at 7pm (Rain Date July 12)
Frankfort, Indiana Friday July 17th at 7pm
Lafayette, Indiana Saturday July 25, 2015
Indiana State Fair Sunday August 16, 2015

[jfaucett]

RULES: 2015

Drivers: All drivers will fill out an entry form and sign insurance form to participate.
Men and Women will run in same class. NO Powder Puff

You must be 18 years old to compete with a valid drivers license or valid ISSUED I.D. card from the state of your residence. (do not forget your I.D. or you will not run)

Drivers must furnish his/her own vehicle or have one sponsored to them.
DRIVERS MUST WEAR HELMET, EYE PROTECTION, LONG SLEEVES, PANTS, & SHOES TO PARTICIPATE. (NO SHORTS, T-SHIRTS, SANDLES, ECT.) GLOVES & FIRE SUIT ARE RECOMMENDED

NO DRIVERS OR PIT CREW MEMBERS WILL BE ALLOWED TO BE UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF ANY ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES OR ILLEGAL DRUGS.
DO NOT COME TO THIS SHOW INTOXICATED OR WITH ANY ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES.
YOU WILL BE ARRESTED AND PROSECUTED, ALL ALCOHOL WILL BE CONFISCATED, COOLERS WILL BE CHECKED.
LEAVE ANY DRUG PARAPHENALIA AT HOME!!!!

Entry fee is non-refundable if your car does not pass inspection. (30.00)/40.00 DAY OF THE SHOW
All drivers must attend drivers meeting before show starts.
Gates open at 11am
ALL CARS SHOULD BE ON FAIRGROUNDS BY 3pm

Type of Cars for stocks and pro-mods: Any year sedan or station wagon except, no trucks, vans, carryalls, 4x4's.) ANY YEAR IMPERIAL ALLOWED Also you may run a convertible as long as a metal car roof has been installed without reinforcing the body of the car.

HEATS will be assigned by staff and will be a course of elimination heats to advance to the feature.
4 cars out of each heat unless there is a shortage of cars. 3 will be the alternative if this case occurs.

THE DRIVER QUALIFIES FOR THE FEATURE NOT THE CAR, what this means is: if you destroy your car in the heat and you qualify for the feature "you may use another registered car that has RUN IN A HEAT OR CONSI. for atleast 5 minutes. (HEAD OFFICIAL MUST BE NOTIFIED TO MAKE CHANGES IN THE ROSTER) This persons name is John Faucett!

Do not get out of your vehicle unless you are told to do so by a official while you are competing in the arena area.
Drivers must remain with their vehicles until they are removed from the arena.

NO PIT CREWS ALLOWED ON THE TRACK AT ANYTIME, FAMILY MEMBERS, or FRIENDS.
This will result in disqualification and forfeit of any prize money.

All cars will have a working seat belt for the drivers seat and it will be on during the event.

NO DRIVERS DOOR HITS: However, we all know that accidents do happen. If it looks intentional you will get disqualified. If it is questionable we may stop the heat or feature and it will be up to the driver who recieved the hit in the door if the violater is disqualified. SO PLEASE TELL ALL FAMILY MEMBERS AND FRIENDS SO THERE IS NO CONFUSION.

TEAM DRIVING: It is allowed to a certain extent. YOU MUST MAKE COMPETITIVE CONTACT WITH ALL VEHICLES THAT ARE COMPETING IN THE ARENA. Do not make the officials dictate the outcome!!

Sandbagging: It is up to the drivers that are competing to take out the other cars that are grocery shopping, not the officials. Remember 1 minute combat rule. 1 minute re-starts. "Some drivers may get more time for a re-start if they are putting on a good show"
Officials will paint an X on the sandbaggers so the rest of the field is aware of what is going on. It is up to you as a driver to take them out. The officials reserve the right and will disqualify a sandbagger if he does not get with the program.

FIRES: Depending on what type of fire it is, you will be out. 1 fire in the heat. Maybe 2 in the feature (it all depends on what type it is)
ROLLOVERS: We hope this does not occur and at the first sign of a car rolling over YOU NEED TO GET OUT OF THE GAS & STOP.
OFFICIALS DECISIONS ARE FINAL: NO UNSPORTSMAN LIKE CONDUCT WILL BE TOLORATED. Arrest or Removal from the fairground property will occur.

Preparation of derby cars:

All glass, plastic, trim, lights, ect. WILL BE REMOVED FROM DERBY CARS BEFORE THEY ARRIVE ON GROUNDS TO BE INSPECTED.

Batteries must be secured in the front passenger floor area with a cover. Gas tanks will be removed from all vehicles and a smaller gas tank can be re-located in the back seat floor area. Boat tank or fuel cell recommended.

Steering column does not have to be a stock OEM column.

Transmission coolers are allowed in the driver/passenger area. Metal or High pressure lines only!

IN STATION WAGONS ALL REAR SEATS AND DECK LIDS MUST BE REMOVED BEFORE ARRIVAL TO GROUNDS.

ANY TYPE CAR ENGINE CAN BE SWAPPED
Engine mounts: may be reinforced or homemade engine mounts. They cannot reinforce the frame in any way. Do not weld engine chains to the frame (must be bolted) unless it is on the engine cradle. Any skid plates must be welded to the pans only.
ENGINE CRADLES and Trans. cradles are allowed but cannot reinforce frame. HOMEMADE ANGLE TYPE CROSSMEMBERS ARE ALLOWED.

BUMPERS: Any car bumper can be put on any derby car.
Due to the high cost of bumpers you may "stuff the inside of the front bumper only" OR take a 4x4 piece of square tubing and put a bumper skin on it (front only)
DO NOT DO THIS TO THE REAR OF THE BUMPER

Bumper brackets can be welded to the frame. DO NOT PUT REAR BUMPER BRACKETS ON THE FRONT. Do not move bumper brackets from stock location. Bumpers can be held on by #9 wire in (4) spots to sheet metal.
*If you use shocks to mount bumper they must be the same as car gm with gm, mopar with mopar, ford with ford. No ibeam shocks on vics, ect., and same style as what came from the factory for that year.

***BUMPER HEIGHT FOR THE REAR IS: 16 Inches from the ground to the bottom of the bumper***

SUSPENSIONS: Any type rearend allowed. But must be mounted like it was there from factory. NO braces from rearend to body or frame beside factory mounting. Chains on rearend are fine.

*You may weld a 2x2 INCH STRAP on BOTH SIDES of the A-FRAME or have a bolt welded to the frame to bolt A-frame solid for height due to bad coil springs, re-enforced or homemade tie rods are allowed, & allthread is allowed for rear shocks.

YOU WILL BE ALLOWED TO LEAF SPRING A COIL SPRING CAR. (Posted in the things to know)

If you have a leaf spring vehicle no more then 9 springs and they must have stagger (you may have a spring the same size as the main leaf). NO WELDING ON OR PLUG WELDED LEAF SPRINGS! No cold rolled steal for springs. 6 clamps per side.

Control arms can be reinforced or make your own (I prefer plated)
must be stock size. They may be shortened or added too. DO NOT REMOVE AND REWELD 97 AND NEWER LOWER CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLY MUST BE STOCK LOCATION ON FRAME.

Tires: No tires bigger then a 16, any ply rating does not have to be DOT, Tires inside of a tire OK, & any split rims must be welded.
Valve stem protectors are ok. No studded tires.

CAR FRAMES: You may weld the top seam only.
22 inch arch plates on rear (prefer contoured to the frame) Split rail rear frames may be boxed in with the same thickness of metal (no bigger then 1/4 inch).)

ON A PRE-RAN CAR you can have (4) 4inch by 6inch plates any where on the frame as long as it is damaged. (only (2) if no damage like a fresh car)
DO NOT RUN 4x6 PLATES TOGETHER space 4 inches
"THIS INCLUDES ARCH PLATES"

A FRESH CAR can have (2) 4inch by 6inch plates any where on the frame. THICKNESS ON ALL PLATES 1/4 (quarter inch)

Body bolts no bigger then 3/4. Do not go all the way through the frame (stock type mounting)
CAN BE MOUNTED SOLID W/no rubber (body & frame)
If you have rusted out frame holes. You are allowed a 3 inch washer to cover 1/4 inch thickness. Do not slide bodies on derby cars. They must remain in the stock position.
Do not re-skin or double any metal on car bodies. If you have rusted out body mounts. Then use the same thickness to fix. Do not get carried away or you will cut it.

FRAMES: may tilted no more then 1/2 inch. No additional welding on FORD CRUSH BOXES other then to tilt. This does not count as a top seam weld. You may tilt rear frames on cars.
Frames will be GM Corporation to GM Corp., Ford Corp. to Ford Corp., Chrysler Corp. to Chrysler Corp. and car bodies will match the same manufacture as well. In other words do not put a Chevy clip in your Ford or a whole frame swap into another car manufacture. NO HYBRIDS = Clipping cars no newer or older frame swaps 60's clip in you 90's car. Must be same year swap.
YOU MAY CHANGE OUT FORD ALUMINUM CRADLES WITH A FORD STEEL ONE (Do not add any extra!)

Any debris on the frame (such as mud and grass) you are responsible for gettting it off before you arrive to be inspected
Do not re-paint your frame or undercoat it. It will make for a long day for YOU to clean it off for the officials to inspect your car...

CAGES: No pipe or square tubing bigger then 4 inch. Can be mounted to the frame or body no more then 4 legs. Legs cannot go inside the frame or NEAR crush boxes on FORDS. Legs must be straight down with no angle & in the drivers compartment only. Rear bar behind seat must accompany the down leg. Over head bar cannot be angled and will be near the drivers helmet area.
A hole may be drilled in your cowl/dash area during inspection to make sure no extra metal is in it! Do not weld your dash bar to the cowl dash area. Dash Bar must be over the stock location of where the steering column mount was.

GAS TANK PROTECTORS MUST BE INSIDE THE FRAME RAILS ON ALL CARS OR 4 INCHES AWAY FROM SHEET METAL IF THEY ARE OVER THE RAILS.

*DO NOT PUT PIPES OR ANYTHING ELSE INSIDE THE FRAME* If anything extra is found you will not be allowed to run period and will forfeit entry and or prize money!

Window bar for gas tank protector: May be connected to top of the car and no further then two inches onto the trunk.

We will give a little on this because of drivers size, do not cover the entire driver / passenger compartment with a cage. 6 inches past the door post is the golden rule.

DOORS AND TRUNK: Can be welded solid with 2 inch strap for trunk. Door strap SHOULD NOT BE EXCESSIVE IN SIZE TO COMPLETE THE JOB. TRUNKS: May be welded, chained, wire, or all thread. You cannot use all four, only ONE...You can use all thread for your body mounts in the trunk (2 only) "bolts must be inside the frame" Trunk must not be welded to the trunk floor in anyway. *TRUNK LID MUST BE 12 INCHES FROM THE FLOOR ALL THE WAY ACROSS*
A 12/12 inch hole will be cut in the trunk for inspection. *(All QUARTER PANELS WILL REMAIN STRAIGHT OTHER THEN CREASING)*

HOODS: may be fastened down in 6 spots w/bolts, wire, or chain. All thread may be used for the core support holes. The other 4 will be sheet metal to sheet metal.
Hood must be open for inspection and located in stock position. No bending in front of the radiator....

Mandatory:
All DERBY CARS MUST HAVE NUMBERS ON BOTH DRIVER AND PASSENGER DOORS. YOUR NAME WILL APPEAR ON DRIVERSIDE DOOR OR TOP. Roof sign is optional and cannot reinforce the car.

Cars will operate in a safe manner during the heat and feature events. If a derby car appears to be at risk of injury to the driver, spectators, or officials you may be disqualified. (example: doors torn off exposing driver)

INSPECTION will occur before your car runs in its assigned heat. It will be subject to re-inspection at anytime until feature is over. Once the winner has been declared it is over with no re-inspection.

On 1978 and older sedans only, you may extend your arch plate to the first body mount on the outside of the frame only and not go past the hole in the frame. 1980 and newer GM & Chrysler sedans can have this too.

NEW RULE FOR 2014 for Imperials: You may weld a 2 inch piece of square tubing or similar in size to your dash bar to the back of your cap protector. Dash bar must remain in the stock location over the steering column.

All other cars have a choice between the above rule or kickers in the front. "not both".

NEW RULE 2014: 1964 and older Ford and Mercury can only have a 22 inch arch plate.

NO PLASTIC GAS TANKS

ALL GAS TANK PROTECTORS MUST BE INSIDE THE FRAME RAILS IF IT TOUCHES REAR SHEET METAL. 4 inches if it is outside the rails.

Cap protectors: Your cap protector will be atleast 6 inches away from the dash bar if you cut away the firewall. You will not be allowed to run if your protector is touching your dash bar.

You may have bolts over your wheel wells for the quarters, no extra bracing just bolts and washers.

Core support and all thread. You may weld the core support to the fenders (do not add anything) "no plates". On the fords "guys are sticking pipe or square tubing to jack up the core support" this is ok and you can weld the pipe or square down to the frame so it is not sloppy. (nothing bigger then 2 inches on pipe or square)

You may run two kickers behind the A-frames on a GM, FORD, or CHRYSLER or any other car manufacture not listed. NO KICKERS TO THE REAR FRAME


******03 AND UP FORDS & MERCURYS********
Can change cradle with a factory ford parts with one pass of weld. NO EXTRA METAL USED. NO FILLING IN CRUSH POINTS OR INSPECTION HOLES IN FRAME. You have to weld a 3/4 washer on frame that 3/4 bolt will fit in, then drill or cut center of washer or frame out for inspection. One in front of a-arm and one behind a-arms on both sides. Bandaids may not cover these up. Make sure we can see inside frame.

You will not be allowed to hold anyone on or against a wall while another car hits it. What happens in the center of the ring is considered fair game. NO PUSHING A CAR OUT OF THE ARENA THIS INCLUDES OVER THE WALLS!

[jfaucett]

*********FULL FRAME IMPERIALS***************
A separate build sheet will go like this for full frame Imperials.

NEW RULE FOR 2013 for Imperials: You may weld a 2 inch piece of square tubing to your dash bar to the back of your cap protector or kickers not both. Dash bar must remain in the stock location over the steering column.

** 22 inch ARCH PLATES 1/4 inch thick**

On a PRE-RAN Full Frame Imperial you will be allowed two 4x6 quarter inch thick (1/4) plates welded over the damaged area.

No uni-body subframes welded into full frame cars.

You may weld the doors solid.

Body creasing and pinching is allowed. *(All QUARTER PANELS WILL REMAIN STRAIGHT OTHER THEN CREASING)* You cannot weld any folded areas. You may have bolts over your quarter panels.

** YOU MAY WELD TRUNK ** (you may wedge trunk and speaker area) *THERE MUST BE ATLEAST 12 INCHES BETWEEN THE TOP OF THE TRUNK LID AND THE TRUNK FLOOR ALL THE WAY ACROSS*

Rusted out floors and body mounts: You may replace metal with the same thickness as stock. Overlap may be one inch over stock metal. NO BODY SEAM WELDING OTHER THEN TO FIX RUSTED OUT AREAS. Body mounts can be changed and mounted solid. 3/4 bolt rule.

Any rearend is allowed but has to be mounted in stock location and stock style mounting "no extra's"
leaf springs must have stagger and a max of 9 springs, 6 clamps **(you may have a one leaf spring the same size as the main spring)**

You may change front bumper (weld & bolt on)

Hood may be fastened down in 6 spots 2 pieces of all thread in core support holes are allowed. The other 4 must be with wire, chain, or bolts. Sheet metal to sheet metal.

No tires bigger then a 16 inch.

Tie-rods may be homemade or strengthened. A-frames may be welded down with a 2x2 quarter inch (1/4) thick metal on both sides of the a-frame or bolted down, like on the promod rules.

4 point cage with 4 down legs to the frame or body. Two additional legs off the rear seat bar connected to the frame not too exceed 12 inches in length and must be atleast 10 inches away from the arch area.
DO NOT CUT THE FRAME OPEN AND PUT YOUR CAGE LEG IN FOR A FRAME PIN. You will not run if anything is found inside the frame!

***************STOCK CLASS**********************

CARS ARE TO BE BUILT AS CLOSE TO STOCK AS POSSIBLE. IF YOUR CAR IS OVERBUILT YOU WILL BE MOVED TO PRO-MOD HEAT!

No trucks, vans, ambulances, jeeps, carry-alls, limousines, 4-wheel drives, hearses. No Chrysler Imperials or bodies on imperial frames. 74 Imperials and newer are ok

BODY:

INTERIOR, GLASS, LIGHTS, SEATS, ECT. MUST BE REMOVED FROM ALL CARS PRIOR TO ARRIVAL OF TRACK.
Body bolts must be factory with the four in the trunk area can be mounted solid with no spacer. The core support may be bolted with an after market bolt or all thread and a spacer not to exceed 4 inches in height (no bigger then 2 inch square tubing)

FRAME:

There is to be no welding on the frame for any reason (except for A-frames forward). Frames can be notched. I will be allowing 4-4x6 1/4" bandaids on preran bent or damaged cars. No frame creasing. (2) 4x6 plates quarter inch in thickness on the side of the frame only on fresh cars. NO COLD BENDING OR TILTING

DOORS:

Doors can only be chained, #9 wired in 2 spots per seam OR TWO 2"X 8" STRIPS WELDED. Drivers door may be welded solid.

TRUNK:

No wedging of the rear of the cars. YOU MAY V-TRUNK IN CENTER BUT THERE MUST BE A 12 INCH GAP BETWEEN LID AND FLOOR. YOU MAY #9 WIRE OR CHAIN IN 6 SPOTS ON TRUNK. YOU MUST HAVE A 12 INCH INSPECTION HOLE IN THE TRUNK IF YOU HAVE ALREADY SECURED IT DOWN. YOU MAY CHANGE THE BACK 4 MOUNTS USING 5/8" OR SMALLER BOLTS WITH A 3"X 3"PLATE.

BUMPERS:

FACTORY STYLE BUMPERS/SHOCKS/BRACKETS MUST MATCH CAR MANUFACTURE. YOU MAY LOAD YOUR FRONT BUMPER AND IT MAY BE WELDED SOLID TO THE BUMPER SHOCK AND FRAME BRACKETS. YOU MAY HAVE TWO PIECES OF #9 WIRE FROM THE CORE SUPPORT TO THE BUMPER.
NO HOME MADE SHOCKS OR BRACKETS ALLOWED. NO HOME MADE V-TYPE BUMPERS. Do not remove bumper brackets and relocate, stock position or cut off!

HOOD:

HOOD MAY BE SECURED BY 4 PLACES WITH #9 WIRE WRAPPED TWICE OR ALLTHEAD IN CORE SUPPORT HOLES. 4 TOTAL TIE DOWNS. YOU MAY PUT SOME SMALL BOLTS IN THE HOOD ONCE YOU HAVE CUT OUT EXHAUST HOLES OR INSPECTION HOLES TO PREVENT FLOPPY METAL, 10 MAXIMUM.

TIRES: NO TIRE BIGGER THEN A 16 INCH, ANY TIRE CAN BE USED EXCEPT FOR STUDDED OR SPLIT RIMS. VALVE STEM PROTECTORS OK

CAGE: A 4 POINT STYLE CAGE WILL BE ALLOWED NO BIGGER THEN 4 INCH. PIPE OR BAR BEHIND THE SEAT SHALL BE NO MORE THEN 3 INCHES AWAY FROM FRONT SEAT. ALL DOWN LEGS WILL GO STRAIGHT DOWN TO BODY OR FRAME *(TWO ANGLED LEGS WILL BE ALLOWED ON THE REAR OF THE CAGE TO THE FRAME 6 inches away from the ARCH)* (NO PIPES INSIDE FRAME) DASH BAR WILL BE OVER STOCK STEERING COLUMN MOUNT AND ATLEAST 6 INCHES FROM THE COWL AREA AND 8 INCHES FROM THE TRANSMISSION TUNNEL. FRONT DOWN LEG MUST BE 6 INCHES FROM ANY FRAME BODY MOUNT AREA.

ENGINES AND TRANSMISSIONS:

ANY ENGINE TRANSMISSION SWAP IS ALLOWED IN ANY CAR SET UP. IF YOU HAVE ANY PROTECTORS ON ENGINE OR TRANSMISSION THEY CANNOT REINFORCE THE CAR BODY OR FRAME IN ANY WAY. AFTERMARKET ENGINE MOUNTS ARE ALLOWED, THEY CAN BE BOLTED OR WELDED INTO PLACE. IF YOU HAVE A DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTOR A HOLE IN THE DASH AREA MUST BE TOTALLY CUT OUT FROM TOP TO THE BOTTOM.
(NEW)Do not weld chains to hold engine down to frame. you may weld a plate from the engine mount to the engine cradle.

A PORTABLE GAS TANK AND BATTERY MUST BE MOVED TO THE INTERIOR OF THE CAR. ALL BATTERIES MUST BE SECURED AND COVERED. GAS TANKS MUST BE REMOVED AND SECURED IN THE REAR SEAT AREA AND COVERED. GAS TANK PROTECTORS MUST BE INSIDE THE FRAME RAILS AND 4 INCHES FROM ANY SHEET METAL.


RADIATORS:

RADIATORS MUST REMAIN IN STOCK LOCATION WITH NO REINFORCEMENT. YOU ARE ALLOWED A FAN PROTECTOR BUT IT SHOULD NOT LOOK LIKE SOMEONES ROD IRON FENCE AND NO LARGER THEN THE RADIATOR! *NO THICKER THEN 16 gage sheet metal.*

TRANSMISSION COOLERS ARE ALLOWED IN THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT.

REARENDS: NO REAREND BRACES, YOU MAY WELD SPIDER GEARS AND ADD LOWER GEAR RATIO'S or change rearend. (NEW) You can chain rearend (DO NOT WELD CHAINS TO FRAME) You may tack weld or wire in rear coils springs on sedans.

NO SLIDER DRIVESHAFTS. ONLY A STOCK OEM DRIVESHAFT FOR CARS ONLY.

AFTERMARKET OR HOMEMADE TRANSMISSION SHIFTERS ARE ALLOWED.

Aftermarket steering columns are allowed (no more then one knuckle). You can lower stock style steering columns and add a knuckle.

SUSPENSIONS: YOUR SUSPENSIONS MUST BE STOCK. HOWEVER YOU MAY WELD A BOLT ON THE FRAME AND PROTRUDE THROUGH THE A-FRAME AND BOLT IT DOWN DUE TO BAD SPRINGS. IT CANNOT BE TIGHTENED ALL THE WAY DOWN AND MUST HAVE BOUNCE. (chains around rearend)



-***** MINI CAR RULES ****************

1. Cars will be built like stock class cars except for the cage.
2. Doors will be welded 2x4 strips on 4 places. (Drivers door can be welded solid) Trunks can be fastened down in 6 spots (wire, chain, only) Hood can be fastened down in 6 spots using bolts, wire, chain.... Allthread is allowed for core support area.
3. Cars can have a maximum of 106 in. wheelbase. Wheelbase can not be altered to achieve 106in. but must be a mini car not a mid-size or you will run with the stock class cars.
WE ARE LOOKING FOR CAR SIZES LIKE "ESCORTS, MUSTANGS, AMC'S, CIVICS, ECT..."
4. Cars with electric fuel pumps must be wired to shut off by switch that is clearly marked.
5. Cars may run any make of motor or tranny combination (V-6 OR V-4), no reinforcement of motor cradle.
6. Leaf spring cars must run ( factory ) leaf setup.
7. Cars can run gas tank protectors.
8. NO V-8's, . . . 4 or 6 cyl. only!!
9. No plates on fresh cars.
10. No tires bigger then 15 inches...
11. NO FULL FRAME CARS.
12. CAGE RULE IS WHAT PRO-MODS ARE ALLOWED

[jfaucett]

THINGS TO KNOW:

All cars & power wheels need to be there by 5pm....

Stock Class:
Body bolts must be factory with the four in the trunk area can be mounted solid with no spacer. The core support may be bolted with an after market bolt or all thread and a spacer not to exceed 4 inches in height (no bigger then 2 inch square tubing)

[jfaucett]

Whose coming back for more?

Remember you will be allowed a few more patches to get your car back out on the track. There has to be noticeable damage for extra patches....

jdf

[seven1seven]

I'll be there watching but unfortunately the next victim of the torch welder and hammer from my garage won't be done. Junked mine in the ball beater on saturday!

[jfaucett]

RESULTS:

Pro-Mods:

1st. Jeremy Hamilton
2nd. Don Clendenning
3rd. Larry Eidson Sr.
4th. Matt Williams
5th. Joe Williams
6th. Chris Smith

Mini Cars:

1st. Michael Smith
2nd. Dekota Kelly-Heidt
3rd. Chris Dean
4th. Larry Hinkle Jr.
5th. John Stowers

Stock Class:

The 11 stock class cars were not permitted to run because the state fire marshal shut the fair down due to an approaching storm. All 11 entries were given 100.00 dollars...

jdf

[jfaucett]

I want to thank everyone who fixed there cars up for one more run at the second Clinton County 4H Fair Demolition Derby. I want to thank everyone who helps me put on these derbies on throughout the year your help is invaluable!

We hope to see everyone back next year even though the weather did not treat us well with all the rain. The stock class guys really got hosed two out of three times this year. Hopefully we can make it up to you guys next year...

again thank you,

jdf

[jerm80]

i like the idea u gave the stock fellas some money for coming but not being able to run due to the weather.

[crash7x70]

Thanks for trying to let us run after the rain John. I know it wasn't your call. Hopefully they will have a better person in charge of making those decisions next year.