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Post by specthompson on Sept 2, 2014 21:20:24 GMT -5
Sliders are not allowed for the class im running so how can i get away with keeping the stock driveshaft without problems? I realize i can switch out the u joints but thats really all i can think of doing.
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Post by derbydriver666 on Sept 3, 2014 13:34:59 GMT -5
trial and error. Grinding the yokes and the driveshaft for more articulation. Duck tape U joints. Use factory truck style slider.
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Post by Builditstronger on Sept 3, 2014 13:54:16 GMT -5
Never had a slider, but always wanted to make one, right now i have just been leaving some play ( about an inch or so) in the drive line allowing for it to collapse some, just in case the front pushes back or the back pushes forward. I set the rear end pinion angle a little high assuming that it will eventually begin to rotate down.
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Post by derbydriver666 on Sept 3, 2014 18:41:32 GMT -5
You have a good start. The reason most stock shafts break is from binding or spitting caps out . If you do some grinding and keep u joints with c clips in them then duct tape everything once you get the driveshaft it will help you out some more.
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Post by specthompson on Sept 3, 2014 19:21:21 GMT -5
Thanks
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Sept 5, 2014 23:31:26 GMT -5
if you have leaf springs in the rear put 3-4 clamps in front of the axle and 4-5 behind the axle, this will help hold the back end down a little and slow/stop the pinion yoke from nosing into the dirt when the tail goes up.
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Post by STROMI 121 on Sept 5, 2014 23:56:20 GMT -5
I really dont understand the waste of perfectly good duct tape on a driveshaft. If its going to break how is some duct tape going to do anything. I have only broke 2 driveshafts in 15 years and 25 rolls of duct tape would not have helped. Is this just another monkey see monkey do thing or an old wise tail?
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Post by aoldfart on Sept 6, 2014 1:56:58 GMT -5
I've seen guys put a whole roll on their drive shaft. Lost it in the heat. Came back, and the rear yoke was broken. They put another roll on it, to try and make it out to the make-up heat. Got about 10 feet, and that was it. But at least they tried. LOL
Steve
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Post by goines2 on Sept 6, 2014 7:43:11 GMT -5
I HAVE used duct tape... But it was AFTER the derby to LOAD my car! It worked great just long enough to hold it in with a broken yoke and get it back on the trailer... If you really want some movement be creative with a slip yoke and carrier bearing, I have seen it work well in "stock" cars before.  |
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Post by fordbasher on Sept 6, 2014 13:37:33 GMT -5
Anyone use a double u joint. Like a 70's Cadillac has??
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Post by specthompson on Sept 6, 2014 20:20:02 GMT -5
Rules actually say OEM sliders only
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Post by STROMI 121 on Sept 6, 2014 20:34:27 GMT -5
Anyone use a double u joint. Like a 70's Cadillac has?? Yup. Just have to spend lots of time with a grinder and dremmel tool to gain increased articulation keeping symetry and balance in mind. |
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Post by STROMI 121 on Sept 6, 2014 20:35:50 GMT -5
And then wrap it in a few rolls of duct tape. I hear it helps. IDK?
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Post by SDderbyman47 on Sept 6, 2014 22:15:39 GMT -5
I see the ducktape as a easy backup just in case something happens that isnt a catastrophic failure. Does it help? I dont know. Is it the cheapest insurance you can add if it does? Dang right. I only put 3 or four wraps per end so it probably doesnt cost more than a buck. What else can you do on a derby car for a buck? Not a heck of allot.
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Post by STROMI 121 on Sept 6, 2014 22:23:57 GMT -5
If you tack the caps and clearance the u joints, what benefit could the duct tape posibly provide? I am very open minded and if anyone offers any logical conclusion to the mystery then I will start wrapping my stock shafts in tape. I just dont see the logic at this point. JMO
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