Vito324
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Post by Vito324 on Mar 22, 2014 10:01:53 GMT -5
I put a 360/727 in a 78 Newport with 400/727 no problem. All I did was put a truck pan on the motor and welded some motor mounts up off a R body. Ran the car 3 times, and got 1st once with it. Its really not hard at all..
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Punisher 66J
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Post by Punisher 66J on Mar 22, 2014 14:36:46 GMT -5
I put a 360/727 in a 78 Newport with 400/727 no problem. All I did was put a truck pan on the motor and welded some motor mounts up off a R body. Ran the car 3 times, and got 1st once with it. Its really not hard at all.. I wish I could weld in the mounts because that would take care of the majority of my problems. I also don't have any truck pans.
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Post by blackmopar21 on Mar 22, 2014 23:07:37 GMT -5
Why change all this stuff to put a small block in when you could simply bend the steering arm down?
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Punisher 66J
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Post by Punisher 66J on Mar 23, 2014 0:38:04 GMT -5
We all got the same idea going. lol. I'm getting ready to drop my 318 in a 78 Newport that I think had a 400 in it factory. Was hoping to bolt it in, use the stock driveshaft, and go. We'll see how it goes I guess. Planning on trying it today. . . How'd it go Dan?
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Post by Dan-Ervine-383 on Mar 23, 2014 8:57:37 GMT -5
Not as planned. It does require a truck pan or beating the steering arm down. Once I seen that problem I went no further yesterday. Didn't see what problems would come from the trans mount situation. We are allowed to use a cradle but per our rules, they have to be bolted to a factory frame mount. Gotta see what my options are there.
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mopar17
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Post by mopar17 on Mar 23, 2014 13:18:08 GMT -5
The easiest way is bending the steering down. Trans mount you usually just have to slot the hole in the cross member mount.
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Vito324
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Post by Vito324 on Mar 23, 2014 13:32:26 GMT -5
I had to bend my steering bar down as well.
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Post by Dan-Ervine-383 on Mar 23, 2014 14:36:09 GMT -5
I was/am worried about the bending the steering arm. For one, the thought of weakening it in any way sucks, and i don't have any extra parts if something goes wrong. It seems like one of those, you only got one chance, type situations.. Maybe I worry too much LOL
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Post by mopar155 on Mar 23, 2014 14:43:52 GMT -5
I've been the steering down on several shockers and never had any issues. Take a large piece of square tubing put one end under the engine cross member and then over the top of the cross bar for the steering between the two arms you have to bend down and stand on that piece. While standing there start heating the arms to be red hot and they will start to go the one on the passengers side is easier to do(smaller in diameter) the one on the drivers side is alot larger and takes more time and heat but jump up and down a little and it will eventually go need to move them a couple inches. Also helps if your a larger driver to bend it faster or find a fat friend to help!
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Mar 27, 2014 18:42:27 GMT -5
is it tacky to throw in an "I told you so"? right about here? Like I said, the motor mounts will drop into the frame saddles but A) the steering crosslink will need to be modified for pan clearance B) the trans mount bolt will be out of place- you will have to re-drill or elongate as someone else suggested C) the engine will sit closer to the firewall so distributor clearance needs to be addressed D) driveshaft length will have to be modified on point D above, it also matters whether you are using a 727 or 900 series trans with your small block because these use different yokes and lengths for the driveshaft. None of this is all that complicated for the average derby builder to overcome but you have to be prepared to confront it. It is NOT a direct bolt-in. For the guy who is not allowed to weld his motor mounts, I wonder if you can get by with simply heating and bending the steering links out of the way, drilling a new hole for the trans mount, and welding up a driveshaft of the correct length. The only welding on the driveshaft is one bead at both ends where the tube meets the yoke. It's not like it is an improved part, you're just making a stock strength part of the needed length.
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hemi1
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Post by hemi1 on Mar 27, 2014 23:14:24 GMT -5
All I know is what worked for me,I can't speak for others.
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Punisher 66J
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Post by Punisher 66J on Apr 6, 2014 0:31:57 GMT -5
Do you have to cut firewall out or can you just sledge it back?
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Post by blackmopar21 on Apr 6, 2014 7:59:13 GMT -5
For the guy who is not allowed to weld his motor mounts, I wonder if you can get by with simply heating and bending the steering links out of the way, drilling a new hole for the trans mount, and welding up a driveshaft of the correct length. The only welding on the driveshaft is one bead at both ends where the tube meets the yoke. It's not like it is an improved part, you're just making a stock strength part of the needed length. Even though I've always ran weld class, that's how I did it for years, before all the fancy stuff came along. A torch and a big pry bar goes a long way.
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Post by Dan-Ervine-383 on Apr 7, 2014 16:13:10 GMT -5
I just went with a Robbo cradle. Bolted in. Solved my problem . lol
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Punisher 66J
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Post by Punisher 66J on Apr 8, 2014 15:52:48 GMT -5
is it tacky to throw in an "I told you so"? right about here? Like I said, the motor mounts will drop into the frame saddles but A) the steering crosslink will need to be modified for pan clearance B) the trans mount bolt will be out of place- you will have to re-drill or elongate as someone else suggested C) the engine will sit closer to the firewall so distributor clearance needs to be addressed D) driveshaft length will have to be modified on point D above, it also matters whether you are using a 727 or 900 series trans with your small block because these use different yokes and lengths for the driveshaft. None of this is all that complicated for the average derby builder to overcome but you have to be prepared to confront it. It is NOT a direct bolt-in. For the guy who is not allowed to weld his motor mounts, I wonder if you can get by with simply heating and bending the steering links out of the way, drilling a new hole for the trans mount, and welding up a driveshaft of the correct length. The only welding on the driveshaft is one bead at both ends where the tube meets the yoke. It's not like it is an improved part, you're just making a stock strength part of the needed length. So if I do this is the truck pan necessary? I was told to swap to a truck pan.
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