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Post by bigblocker17x on Jul 24, 2013 9:57:16 GMT -5
Ok i have a few quick questions, i thought the car would be a quick strip and go since it was already running well it has a carb fire and burnt some wiring up so i decided to to do a complete strip of all wiring and then just run a toggle and pushbutton but, is it the same wiring as a chevt as far as the hei, alternator etc? and there are 4 steel tubes that look like they screw into the heads by the spark plugs what are they? and can i just pinch them off? and theres a thicker tube by the trans dipstick that feels like it runs down to the transmission i cut the tube and pinched it off because i thought it was for a vacuum line but is it needed? and what vaccuum lines do i need coming out of the intake and into the carb? its a stock 4bbl quadrajet carb and stock spreadbore intake and i know i need the one from the brake booster to the back of the carb but what else can i strip and what do i need? thankyou so much if you can help, the race is tommorow so i need some help as soon as possible.
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Post by STROMI 121 on Jul 24, 2013 10:09:01 GMT -5
Yes, the wiring is the same. You can block off everything that you mentioned. None of it is needed for a demolition derby car. If that Q jet has a bunch of wires going to it, it will not be a good carb.
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Post by cadilacty on Jul 25, 2013 2:50:39 GMT -5
Depending on the actual year of the car your distributor may need the computer to work right as well as the carb
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Post by STROMI 121 on Jul 25, 2013 7:33:14 GMT -5
The 307s that I ran in the past had computers. I just left that harness unplugged. It will still run but it wont have any timing advance which is what the computer controls on the distributor. You will need to swap to a non electronic carb of some type. the computer controlled q jets are junk. They will run fine until they get hot and then will not refire, in my experience.
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Post by DrewFausett #51 on Jul 26, 2013 15:27:08 GMT -5
i also had a computer on my 85 delta 88 307. i removed it. i took the electronic spark control out of the distributor, and put a standard quadrajet carb on it. the wiring harness is super simple. i'll be using that motor for many years to come.
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Post by bigblocker17x on Jul 27, 2013 10:56:03 GMT -5
This one has an hei and just the 2 wires coming out of it so is it a regular hei that i can wire up easy? and i have a standard qjet now with none of the electrical connections and if i have time ill throw on the holley 4 barrel but i didnt get it done for either of the figure 8's and todays the derby so i need to get it done.
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Post by fordbasher on Sept 22, 2014 19:06:05 GMT -5
will a regular old 4 bbl qjet bolt directly on the same intake as an electronic 4bbl qjet? ...without any adapters or non-sence
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Post by Killerclown123 on Sept 22, 2014 20:46:43 GMT -5
It'll bolt. It won't work right half the time. Nothing wrong with electronic ones if tuned for the job.
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Post by fordbasher on Sept 25, 2014 13:10:48 GMT -5
i love the old vacuum style q-jet..no wires at all...and will run excellent if you tune them right...just wanted to know if they will mount the same!...thanks
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Post by STROMI 121 on Sept 25, 2014 23:29:57 GMT -5
It'll bolt. It won't work right half the time. Nothing wrong with electronic ones if tuned for the job. How do you make them work without the computer hooked up?
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Post by STROMI 121 on Sept 25, 2014 23:30:32 GMT -5
i love the old vacuum style q-jet..no wires at all...and will run excellent if you tune them right...just wanted to know if they will mount the same!...thanks Yes, it will bolt right up.
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Post by Killerclown123 on Sept 26, 2014 16:07:01 GMT -5
It'll bolt. It won't work right half the time. There is no reason for it not to work correctly Primaries are smaller on the electronic carbs, at least most that I know of. Switching to the older q-jets on a newer intakes is a crap shoot. The blades won't be able to open. But they did do a lot experimenting with these so you never know. Also switching qjets not a good idea because these carbs are tuned to specific motors. The wrong vacuum signal will not make a good carb work right. That's why everybody thinks they're junk. They think just switch it when it just makes the situation worse.
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Post by Killerclown123 on Sept 26, 2014 16:21:51 GMT -5
It'll bolt. It won't work right half the time. Nothing wrong with electronic ones if tuned for the job. How do you make them work without the computer hooked up? They work great when not hooked up. They actually run rich in a default mode which is better for the derby. But the problem with them is the solenoids inside take up room so less gas can be inside the carb which causes vapor lock much easier. Get rid of all the emissions stuff inside and now you have MUCH more gas available inside the carb. There's to much to explain , really got to know carbs to set these up. I can try my best here but the this will be as long as the car build thread after I'm done. These are awesome carbs if done right. These carbs when used with the ESC were getting the metrics up to 25 mpg on the highway. Which I think is pretty damn impressive considering they can be tuned to go on motors pushing 400 horse power and still sip gas.
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Post by STROMI 121 on Sept 27, 2014 0:43:30 GMT -5
So you are modifing an electronic carb to make it a non electronic carb?
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Post by STROMI 121 on Sept 27, 2014 0:45:18 GMT -5
All I can tell is from experience. If you attempt to run an electronic carb without whatever modifications on a 307, it will not start after a few minutes. Period. Do not attempt.
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