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Post by aoldfart on Jan 1, 2014 20:27:50 GMT -5
I take the stat out, and make a "gasket" out of a soda can. Pretty easy to do. Then I punch a hole in the middle of it. Use some silicone on both sides. Works well.
Steve
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Vito324
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Post by Vito324 on Jan 1, 2014 21:47:39 GMT -5
Thanks guys. I always ran just the thermostat housing but gutted it. Just wanted to see what everyone else did! I've heard of people running a small hole washer instead of the housing too.
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Post by justforfun1973 on Jan 2, 2014 1:42:12 GMT -5
I run a new thermostat. But gonna try gutting it this year.
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demodave216
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Post by demodave216 on Jan 2, 2014 14:51:46 GMT -5
if you don't run a thermostat make sure your hoses are closed off in the off season. I had a mouse fill up my radiator hose with dog biscuits one year. little bastard was stealing them off my workbench and storing them in my engine for winter. glad I found them before put the radiator in it.
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Post by STROMI 121 on Jan 2, 2014 15:20:22 GMT -5
I usually shove the garden hose in the lower hose sealed off with an old rag and let the engine run until its warm (to flush out the block) anyway before I install the radiator.
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Post by ccld51 on Jan 3, 2014 23:41:08 GMT -5
I run a gutted thermostat in run mix of antifreeze/water in add amsoil coolant boost to it. With a electric fan out of mercury sable that had v6 in it with tru cool radiator
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joker14
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Post by joker14 on Jan 4, 2014 0:06:20 GMT -5
No restrictions ever. Your not racing it your idling it. You need 40gpm. With restrictions at the rpms derby cars run you will never reach it. Race cars do, they live4500 to 7200. Derby cars don't and I don't care if you believe me or not. Those are the facts. I haven't seen one soul come on here with data yet. Your a monkey see race car monkey do derby car. Not the same so you can't do the same. Hold the water in the rad longer makes cooler water but also holding it in the engine longer make for hotter water. More btus are being created that you can remove from the water. That's what makes water temp go up. There is a point where flow and the outside air temp to radiator temp delta become even. This is where temp stops rising. The only way to now lower this number is to increase flow, lower outside air temp or increase fan speed. It's a 9th grade math equation.
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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wreckit87
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Post by wreckit87 on Jan 4, 2014 2:23:21 GMT -5
No restrictions ever. Your not racing it your idling it. You need 40gpm. With restrictions at the rpms derby cars run you will never reach it. Race cars do, they live4500 to 7200. Derby cars don't and I don't care if you believe me or not. Those are the facts. I haven't seen one soul come on here with data yet. Your a monkey see race car monkey do derby car. Not the same so you can't do the same. Hold the water in the rad longer makes cooler water but also holding it in the engine longer make for hotter water. More btus are being created that you can remove from the water. That's what makes water temp go up. There is a point where flow and the outside air temp to radiator temp delta become even. This is where temp stops rising. The only way to now lower this number is to increase flow, lower outside air temp or increase fan speed. It's a 9th grade math equation. Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards So you're saying once we're boiling 240 degrees after 5 minutes, the only way to cool down is to hold it at say 5000 rpm instead of 2000? Seems like opposing ideas to me but I missed most of 9th grade. I'm not doubting your theory by any means, but in my personal experience running a wide open hole will always get hot 3x faster than having some sort of restriction as long as there's a rad pulling some air. Radi-barrel, sure. Run em wide open because it's all about volume at that point but I fail to see how running 100% flow through a rad is more efficient. Yes, I raced circle track for awhile and that is where i got the restriction idea from, but I tried each and every way in a derby setting and I personally have had far better luck with restriction
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Post by aoldfart on Jan 4, 2014 15:35:57 GMT -5
It would be interesting to see some facts on this. I don't know about you, but the only time I ever was at idle in a derby, was coming into the track, and waiting for the flag to drop. Once it dropped, the engine was at high RPM, unless I was shifting from reverse to drive. The car may not have been moving very fast, but the engine was. I want cooler water coming into the engine, and this is why I think a restriction is the way to go. But, I could be wrong.
Steve
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Post by rhull1977 on Jan 4, 2014 18:34:00 GMT -5
There is more needed than flow restricted to cool a derby engine. I wouldn't have believe that letting the water flow through with no restriction would work but I rarely even run a rad. There is a lot of secrets to engines that work in other motorsports that work in derby engines but air flow will cool more than water flow in a derby. A car idling in traffic gets hotter than a car moving down the road.
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Post by burban79 on Jan 4, 2014 19:51:46 GMT -5
if the water is flowing to fast there is not enough time for the water to absord the heat so engine will stay hot and if your just idling around must be sandbagin
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Post by cheater111 on Jan 4, 2014 23:28:34 GMT -5
It would be nice to get a full answer on how to keep these engines cool in our sport but that's not something that will b fully answered ever. Bout as close as one will get is buy one of the top engine builders motor and the work is already done.
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joker14
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Post by joker14 on Jan 5, 2014 11:29:47 GMT -5
It would be interesting to see some facts on this. I don't know about you, but the only time I ever was at idle in a derby, was coming into the track, and waiting for the flag to drop. Once it dropped, the engine was at high RPM, unless I was shifting from reverse to drive. The car may not have been moving very fast, but the engine was. I want cooler water coming into the engine, and this is why I think a restriction is the way to go. But, I could be wrong. Steve But the penalty you pay for cooler water coming in is much hotter water coming out. There is no free lunch. Your netting 0. Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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joker14
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Post by joker14 on Jan 5, 2014 11:55:49 GMT -5
No restrictions ever. Your not racing it your idling it. You need 40gpm. With restrictions at the rpms derby cars run you will never reach it. Race cars do, they live4500 to 7200. Derby cars don't and I don't care if you believe me or not. Those are the facts. I haven't seen one soul come on here with data yet. Your a monkey see race car monkey do derby car. Not the same so you can't do the same. Hold the water in the rad longer makes cooler water but also holding it in the engine longer make for hotter water. More btus are being created that you can remove from the water. That's what makes water temp go up. There is a point where flow and the outside air temp to radiator temp delta become even. This is where temp stops rising. The only way to now lower this number is to increase flow, lower outside air temp or increase fan speed. It's a 9th grade math equation. Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards So you're saying once we're boiling 240 degrees after 5 minutes, the only way to cool down is to hold it at say 5000 rpm instead of 2000? Seems like opposing ideas to me but I missed most of 9th grade. I'm not doubting your theory by any means, but in my personal experience running a wide open hole will always get hot 3x faster than having some sort of restriction as long as there's a rad pulling some air. Radi-barrel, sure. Run em wide open because it's all about volume at that point but I fail to see how running 100% flow through a rad is more efficient. Yes, I raced circle track for awhile and that is where i got the restriction idea from, but I tried each and every way in a derby setting and I personally have had far better luck with restriction First, boiling is 212. second, if your boiling after 5 minutes you got more issues than a water restriction. c. When we discuss flow, we are not implying that in order to increase flow or decrease flow you need to raise rpm or lower rpm. we are talking about the little restriction in the water neck. which is adjustable regardless of engine rpm. D. You can try to make me look like an idiot by the "opposing idea" statement but it wont work. Everyone knows already im an idiot. i dont have theorys or opinions cause those can cost someone their life. In the professional world you have facts or you shut your mouth. When i talked about 40 gpm earlier, thats where the facts lie. you have to move water, you dont derby 7000 rpm the whole time so you cant use oval track development. If thats the case then why dont you run a 260 degree cam, goodyear 8 inch wide tires, Bert transmission, Winters quick change rear end. Why? Because oval guys do it so i should derby it too. Im an oval guy, thats how i make my living, I get what your saying. But seriously, you have something wrong if you cant keep water under 240 in 5 minutes. I dont try to tell you what to do, all i do is lay the facts out there to help you make a decision and hopefully make you all smarter.
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joker14
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Post by joker14 on Jan 5, 2014 11:57:15 GMT -5
I run a gutted thermostat in run mix of antifreeze/water in add amsoil coolant boost to it. With a electric fan out of mercury sable that had v6 in it with tru cool radiator very efficient package right there, someone has been paying attention.
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