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Post by derby2racer on Nov 4, 2014 12:05:03 GMT -5
Is a 74 mercury leafed or coil?
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Post by Luke Wells on Nov 4, 2014 19:58:58 GMT -5
Is a 74 mercury leafed or coil? Coils
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Post by derby2racer on Nov 5, 2014 19:01:54 GMT -5
On the back of a 74 Ford wagon, would it work to sedagon, chain humps tight, stuff shocks with rags and notch/pre bend?
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Post by 513monster on Nov 5, 2014 20:38:37 GMT -5
the humps are the weak point, so making everything behind them hard is a bad idea without hump plates IMO.
70s fords are very underrated, however...i think they take a good set of rules OR some know how to keep the humps from blowing all to hell..there is just too much frame behind them.
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Post by derby2racer on Nov 5, 2014 22:33:56 GMT -5
the humps are the weak point, so making everything behind them hard is a bad idea without hump plates IMO. 70s fords are very underrated, however...i think they take a good set of rules OR some know how to keep the humps from blowing all to hell..there is just too much frame behind them. Chaining the humps and stuffing the shocks would be supporting the humps right? Notching/pre-bending would help to create a bend point behind the humps and take some stress off of them. Just trying to understand reasons for why we do certain things in a build. Am I on the right path in the thought process or am I off?
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Post by 513monster on Nov 6, 2014 6:07:33 GMT -5
Well yes, but sedagoning it is going to make the rear a lot harder, and despite most views they are already too hard(like I mentioned in the 70s for thread...look at the size of the rails). So even though you are taking counter measures to try to control the humps, a sedagon is going to counter act that and make it even more unpredictable. However, if you make enough relief such as your notches, prebending and cuts/hammer work, it could work.
You have to look at everything as give and take...make point a harder, it puts more stress on point b therefore making it weaker...get me? You have to find that medium between give and take.
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Post by derby2racer on Nov 6, 2014 7:16:45 GMT -5
OK that makes sense. On these fords, does it help to beat the side of the humps in to keep them from blowing out as easy?
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Post by lunchboxxx on Nov 24, 2014 12:29:00 GMT -5
So here is my question how would a 74 ltd wagon be against bubble Ford's with rules that allow kickers to behind the a-arms, dp, cradles, trans protectors, 2 plates per frame rail can weld all body seams, can hardnose, hump plates, body creasing, can replace body mount bolts, gas tank protectors, roll cages can have 2 kickers straight down to the frame,etc. Would this be a good build for a 74 wagon or should I just stick to a bubble ford? Needing opinions quick due to possible trade.
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Post by Luke Wells on Nov 24, 2014 14:07:23 GMT -5
With those rules almost anything (within reason) will be competitive as long as nothing stupid happens. JMO
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Post by runninhot38 on Dec 17, 2014 22:32:16 GMT -5
Yes always best in the humps if you can I think it helps a lot I square them up as best I can as well
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wvvic
Future Icon
Posts: 7
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Post by wvvic on May 28, 2015 20:45:52 GMT -5
Are 1966 country squire wagons any good?
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Post by redneckracing12 on May 29, 2015 21:38:49 GMT -5
Are 1966 country squire wagons any good? It's a good platform to build from but they are not very good for stock shows where you can't swap bumpers and do some necessities.
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Post by 513monster on May 30, 2015 10:03:46 GMT -5
66 was a bad year. Not the same frame as a 58-64.
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Post by redneckracing12 on May 30, 2015 15:36:02 GMT -5
66 was a bad year. Not the same frame as a 58-64. Duhh I knew that brain fart lol. Thanks for the correction.
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wvvic
Future Icon
Posts: 7
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Post by wvvic on May 30, 2015 19:09:37 GMT -5
Thanks for the info.
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