wtf7
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Post by wtf7 on Oct 12, 2016 21:52:04 GMT -5
Ok..... they debate can go on for days but building a winter project which is an 89 wagon and was wondering if I should run it- with tail gate, without tailgate, or modified tail gate meaning some cut out but enough to hold the body in the back together? I have some ideas already but wanted to see what has worked out better for some of you. It would be run in a semi stock class.
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gmcman
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Post by gmcman on Oct 13, 2016 18:24:52 GMT -5
ive never built one of these but a buddy of mine ran a 74 mercury wagon 3 times 2 of them against imperials and it made me want one to be able to leaf because the bodies are so tough that the humps cant hold up to the strenth of the body. they stay straight and pinch the humps in stock form and plow the track cause the roof gives and pulls down right at the rear window pillar at the middle of the wheel well when the humps go but the rest of the body and frame is usually pretty straight. the rules in my area allow leaf conversions 8 springs max, 4 clamps and one 6x6x1/4 inch plate per frame rail on fresh cars and no other frame welding other than bumpers. the idea i got from looking at how my buddys bent is to use chevy rear 1/2 ton springs with one clamp between the front eye and center pin and 4 between the rear eye and center pin with the the thick main on the bottom removed to give them more arch and they are longer than most spring packs whick is good since these cars dont have a package tray like other coil sping cars of the same era. once the bumper brackets are welded on it should bend between the spring hangers and the bumper brackets with the rear spring eyelet up against the frame and the humps plated and chained. i think it will want to belly at the front spring hanger because the arch in the springs will get the assend sitting up really high and it will probaly need hydraulic power to push them down to ride height to be able to chain the humps if you use 1/2 ton truck springs. i had to when i put them on my 58 wagon. leave it coil sprung and weaken the body and roof unless you can chain the humps. the preloaded leafs pushing back up against the humps so it has no other place to bend but the spots i mentioned is the key so you dont have to weaken the body and roof. i think it would tent like an early 70s mopar wagon without hump chains and/or plates if you leafed it with arched leafs but didnt chain or plate the humps. all of this is theory since all i have done with these so far is look at them when it comes to derbying them but i think it should work good with how i see them bend when they are stock It probably won't bend between the bumper and the spring hangers like that, the frame gets wider in that area and on the wagon that i ran (73 LTD wagon) I wasted everything on the front of that car and didn't get a chance for the rear to belly. I used 70's f150 springs in the control arm hole and used the rear pickup brackets welded to the inside of the frame 4 clamps total and spring under axle.
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67X
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Post by 67X on Oct 15, 2016 15:26:54 GMT -5
Ok..... they debate can go on for days but building a winter project which is an 89 wagon and was wondering if I should run it- with tail gate, without tailgate, or modified tail gate meaning some cut out but enough to hold the body in the back together? I have some ideas already but wanted to see what has worked out better for some of you. It would be run in a semi stock class. All of the ones that I've run have been without tail gates. It's the safe option. Whether it's the entire tail gate or just partial, I don't think they really add much strength and just get in the way.
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wtf7
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Post by wtf7 on Oct 15, 2016 22:30:57 GMT -5
Thanks for the good info! I just didn't know about the ford wagons. I've ran a couple newer gm wagons without the gate and they turned out good but I figured it would be the same with the fords but was just checking. Thanks 67x
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67X
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Post by 67X on Oct 16, 2016 10:23:29 GMT -5
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wtf7
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Post by wtf7 on Oct 16, 2016 16:57:15 GMT -5
67x Have you ever thought of bubbling the top up where you notch it? Instead of the roof moving down with the body, it would go up so you could still half ass see?
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tywatson28x
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Post by tywatson28x on Oct 16, 2016 18:19:30 GMT -5
Building my first wagon it's an 87 or 89 vic wagon. Building it to stock rules. Weld 5 on 5 off driver solid. Stock m/t, rearends ect. Running a team show with it and my teammate is running a caprice box wagon. It's gsa rules semi mod rules. Any help will do. Usually build ford's but never a wagon
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67X
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Post by 67X on Oct 16, 2016 19:13:46 GMT -5
67x Have you ever thought of bubbling the top up where you notch it? Instead of the roof moving down with the body, it would go up so you could still half ass see? It seems like typically the roof will stay relatively straight so I've really never messed with the idea but I'm sure it wouldn't necessarily hurt either.
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wtf7
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Post by wtf7 on Oct 16, 2016 19:22:45 GMT -5
67x I think I might just try it and I will get pictures to let you know how it turns out.
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Post by norton81 on Nov 10, 2016 12:49:11 GMT -5
So tearing in to my 77 ltd2 wagon I was taking off the stuff I didn't need so my question is with the grill and every thing off I noticed all the sheet metal past the core support do u guys fold it over to the support or leave it? Personal preference? And also to move the hood forward with one bolt holding on to the hinges to fold hood down to core support is it worth it? I can run 1" all thread at core support and thinking with hood bent down run some 9 wire hood to frame nice and tight
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Post by bustedknuckle242 on Nov 17, 2016 14:22:18 GMT -5
Ok..... they debate can go on for days but building a winter project which is an 89 wagon and was wondering if I should run it- with tail gate, without tailgate, or modified tail gate meaning some cut out but enough to hold the body in the back together? I have some ideas already but wanted to see what has worked out better for some of you. It would be run in a semi stock class. All of the ones that I've run have been without tail gates. It's the safe option. Whether it's the entire tail gate or just partial, I don't think they really add much strength and just get in the way. Running my first wagon 87. Our rules allow threaded rod welded to frame in the back. Thinking about notching behind it and then just laying the tailgate flat on the floor and bolting down then wrap some wire from bumper to threaded rod to hopefully pull everything up. Thoughts?
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wtf7
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Post by wtf7 on Nov 17, 2016 17:18:13 GMT -5
Personally I think whatever you do you need to get the rear to fold. If not your going to have a dove tail wagon. I've seen a partial gate fold to the floor work. So just use it as an experiment and try it. Jmo
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67X
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Post by 67X on Nov 18, 2016 8:49:48 GMT -5
All of the ones that I've run have been without tail gates. It's the safe option. Whether it's the entire tail gate or just partial, I don't think they really add much strength and just get in the way. Running my first wagon 87. Our rules allow threaded rod welded to frame in the back. Thinking about notching behind it and then just laying the tailgate flat on the floor and bolting down then wrap some wire from bumper to threaded rod to hopefully pull everything up. Thoughts? I'm sure all of that would be fine but I would dimple the frame opposed to notching it.
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Post by norton81 on Jan 15, 2017 20:32:37 GMT -5
I'm doing my 77 ltd2 wagon I'm gonna put leafs under it.anyways would a set of ford super duty leafs be good under this or to long?
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Post by norton81 on Jan 17, 2017 12:15:46 GMT -5
Anybody?
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