21z
Future Icon
Posts: 14
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Post by 21z on Jun 23, 2018 21:20:46 GMT -5
I see.. didn't know that. Still pretty stumped though, because at least from what I can tell it's getting enough fuel.
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Post by C4 on Jun 23, 2018 23:18:49 GMT -5
Your regulator vacuum operated?
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chi
Heat Winner
Posts: 236
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Post by chi on Jun 24, 2018 7:05:19 GMT -5
Good afternoon fellas, I hooked up my tank to my 2000 Honda Accord which has the 3.0 Vtec in it, but the pump if from a Ford Taurus, also a 3.0 V6. Problem is when I start the car, it sputters like heck and eventually stalls. I think it's getting too much fuel, because when I flip off my fuel switch it runs great until lines are empty..obviously. The thing I don't understand is that the Accord has a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, to keep this from happening. Even with the regulator not in the conversation, shouldn't a fuel pump from a 3.0 V6 engine have a pretty darn close psi to another one from different make? Is there anything I'm doing wrong/missing here? Car ran like a dream with stock tank/pump in it. Any help is greatly appreciated. Fuel pump from an older accord(90 and up) will work just fine. Actually,any fuel pump out of something with an F,H,or J series would work. Try to find one out of a honda odysee at your local pick and pull,itd probably be the cheapest/best route to go
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21z
Future Icon
Posts: 14
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Post by 21z on Jun 24, 2018 9:47:37 GMT -5
Yes, regulator is vacuum operated. I never pulled the hose from it in any process. I pulled it off just to see what happened and it didn't make any difference. I took charcoal canister off underneath car back by gas tank when I pulled it. I also pulled out all steel fuel/evap lines and just replaced feed and return lines with rubber line. Not sure if pulling those other lines made a difference? It puffs some smoke out of the exhaust whenever I run it with fuel pump on but doesn't whenever it's off. Whenever I get on the gas also it doesn't help anything by burning up more fuel, only sputters worse.
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Post by amkear613 on Jul 23, 2018 15:16:13 GMT -5
Question for you boys. Been probably 3 years since I built a mini. This is my second Honda Accord.
I'm getting rid of power steering this time as well as ac and alternator my question is what are you doing with the lines off back of engine that go to power steering? Cut and throw a bolt and clamp off? Left all this is with last one. Thanks
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Post by amkear613 on Jul 23, 2018 15:29:00 GMT -5
After posting the question I realized this is to my steering box and I can do whatever I want with them. Don't mind me I'm a moron
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Post by C4 on Jul 23, 2018 17:00:20 GMT -5
I cut them at the steering rack with a bolt cutter. Leaves a nice pinch to keep dirt out.
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Post by amkear613 on Jul 24, 2018 15:43:27 GMT -5
I cut them at the steering rack with a bolt cutter. Leaves a nice pinch to keep dirt out. Did just that and then read your reply lol. I've got a couple ideas with this build that hopefully will be quick and effective. Building second Honda and first compact in 3 years. Identical to last Honda, even color, except manual. It's a 94-97. I'll share what I learn. Just went through this entire thread again as a refresher.
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Post by chiefnavajo91 on Jul 25, 2018 1:19:07 GMT -5
Hey fellas. New on here but been reading around for a while. Ran a 92 prelude last year and building a 91 wagon for next month. Swapped the drivetrain from the prelude to the wagon. JDM f22b which is the twin cam no vtec and a 5 speed manual trans. While it was out I yanked the trans apart and welded the spiders gear up. Surprised I havent read about anybody else trying it or maybe its a pretty obvious bad idea on a fwd and im an idiot... Lost an upper ball joint on my prelude last year and pulled the axle out. Figured a lincoln locker would fix that right up
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Post by amkear613 on Aug 13, 2018 10:29:18 GMT -5
Chiefnavajo91 id like to know how you did that. been having same problem.
Alright boys, ran second 94 accord saturday. built to rules in 2 weeks(limited weld) everyone else built mod cars, I brought a rubberband to a gun fight. anyway, i accordioned the front passenger frame and broke my second spindle. IS THERE ANY Non-cast spindle that would work on these cars? ive got ideas on fixes but i might not be on the right track. I just want to keep the wheels on and cv axles in.
lets say no rules anything goes kinda show except kickers- im coming back with vengeance for next year. feel free to PM me.
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Post by chiefnavajo91 on Aug 13, 2018 11:20:21 GMT -5
I had the motor and trans out of the car anyways since they came out of my prelude. Seperated them to check out and replace the clutch and while i had it seperated i split the case and pulled the diff out of the trans and put it in a vise. Theyre not bad transmissions to take apart and overhaul if needed but everything else looked good so i welded the diff and put it back together. Sealed it up with some rtv i had laying around and no leaks. Derbys friday and sat night so we'll see how it does. Double stuffed and tubed my tires but im worried that amount of weight and a lincoln locker im gonna snap axles the first time the clutch gets dumped.
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Post by amkear613 on Aug 13, 2018 13:40:43 GMT -5
I had the motor and trans out of the car anyways since they came out of my prelude. Seperated them to check out and replace the clutch and while i had it seperated i split the case and pulled the diff out of the trans and put it in a vise. Theyre not bad transmissions to take apart and overhaul if needed but everything else looked good so i welded the diff and put it back together. Sealed it up with some rtv i had laying around and no leaks. Derbys friday and sat night so we'll see how it does. Double stuffed and tubed my tires but im worried that amount of weight and a lincoln locker im gonna snap axles the first time the clutch gets dumped. thanks for the visual. i also have considered after saturday to somehow tie the spindle to the frame so it doesnt pop out. with chain or something.
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Post by chiefnavajo91 on Aug 14, 2018 8:57:50 GMT -5
Why dont you try welding a piece of flat bar to the backside of the spindle and heating it/hammering it straight as you go up it? I started doing tie rod ends that way and tried to weld a washer over the ball joint so it cant pop out but the heat melted whatever cup the joint sits in and it started to have too much play in it for my liking.
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Post by amkear613 on Aug 14, 2018 12:31:03 GMT -5
Why dont you try welding a piece of flat bar to the backside of the spindle and heating it/hammering it straight as you go up it? I started doing tie rod ends that way and tried to weld a washer over the ball joint so it cant pop out but the heat melted whatever cup the joint sits in and it started to have too much play in it for my liking. the spindle is cast which is my issue. on this car i left my balljoints in and took a washer and ground out one side making it a near perfect U shape, slid over ball joint and welded it. i assume it worked great as the hit i took from a welded W body rolled end of a arm down to where the bottom of ball joint is almost touching the a arm. Id say the washer trick worked just fine. in my case it stayed nice and tight. Im considering fabbing up "spindle protectors". if i do ill post pics. otherwise im going to chain the spindles to the dang frame so if it busts it will not pull CV out. that with some pipe for shocks i might be on the right track.
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Post by chiefnavajo91 on Aug 15, 2018 8:39:22 GMT -5
Why dont you try welding a piece of flat bar to the backside of the spindle and heating it/hammering it straight as you go up it? I started doing tie rod ends that way and tried to weld a washer over the ball joint so it cant pop out but the heat melted whatever cup the joint sits in and it started to have too much play in it for my liking. the spindle is cast which is my issue. on this car i left my balljoints in and took a washer and ground out one side making it a near perfect U shape, slid over ball joint and welded it. i assume it worked great as the hit i took from a welded W body rolled end of a arm down to where the bottom of ball joint is almost touching the a arm. Id say the washer trick worked just fine. in my case it stayed nice and tight. Im considering fabbing up "spindle protectors". if i do ill post pics. otherwise im going to chain the spindles to the dang frame so if it busts it will not pull CV out. that with some pipe for shocks i might be on the right track. Was looking at mine last night and i think im going to try 9 wire around the knuckles to the spring and tighen it down at full lock so it can still pivot but hopefully hold the axle in if the ball joint breaks or the knuckle up higher than the wire. Going to do the same with the rear in case the upper ball joint back there goes. I wouldnt hesitate to try welding on the cast knuckle, especially if you have access to a stick with nickel rods
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