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Post by ghall79 on Jun 7, 2019 18:12:57 GMT -5
3.3 v6 is idling around 2-2500 rpm and drops to about 15-1800 in gear. Only thing stripped under hood so far was the heater box, windshield washer tank and overflow tank. Sprayed for vacuum leaks and couldn’t find any. But when I unplug the 20amp fuse up front on the core support then plug it back in, it idles normal. Car didn’t do this before the above items were stripped but I think it would be weird if it caused that. I know the maf is good. Only thing I can think of is the tps.
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Post by JR/77x on Jun 8, 2019 12:09:15 GMT -5
3.3 v6 is idling around 2-2500 rpm and drops to about 15-1800 in gear. Only thing stripped under hood so far was the heater box, windshield washer tank and overflow tank. Sprayed for vacuum leaks and couldn’t find any. But when I unplug the 20amp fuse up front on the core support then plug it back in, it idles normal. Car didn’t do this before the above items were stripped but I think it would be weird if it caused that. I know the maf is good. Only thing I can think of is the tps. I take that fuse link out cut the wires and splice them together I’m not sure if that will fix you’re issue or not but kinda preventive maintenance type deal anyway.
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Post by ghall79 on Jun 8, 2019 13:49:05 GMT -5
In the process of moving the battery and wires right now. See what happens when I fire it up
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west6
Heat Winner
Bryan West
Posts: 574
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Post by west6 on Jul 27, 2019 1:23:35 GMT -5
Hey guys. I have a 91 olds cutlass cruiser with a 3.3 I’m building for a buddy. Guy bought the car cheap because it quit running one day, I was told it was a bad cam sensor. I did some research and long story short... it doesn’t have a cam sensor that I can find. I haven’t touched anything. I stuck a battery in it and cranked it over. Has good fuel pressure, all injectors ohm around 12.4, has good compression, in time, but no spark. Jumping the data port to the ground I pull a hard 12 code. I have replaced the ICM and crankshaft position sensor. To the best of my knowledge, the ICM has 12v going to it and the crank sensor has power as well. The car cranks but has never even tried to hit. I’ve put a noid tester on each coil pack and have no fire. ICM seems to be grounded good. Only other thing I know to do is ohm my coils? Any help is appreciated
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Post by staggerin on Jul 27, 2019 8:03:32 GMT -5
Check the the crank sensor down by the crank pulley, that sends signal to the icm when to fire, easy to change.
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west6
Heat Winner
Bryan West
Posts: 574
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Post by west6 on Jul 27, 2019 13:48:14 GMT -5
Check the the crank sensor down by the crank pulley, that sends signal to the icm when to fire, easy to change. I put a brand new crank sensor and ICM on it. The balancer seemed just fine and the reluctant rings looked clean. I have no spark out of the coil packs
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Post by JR/77x on Jul 27, 2019 13:58:25 GMT -5
Have you messed with the coil packs at all they need a good ground as well the metal base is part of the ground normally...then there is a inline fuse on the radiator support on the left side... if you have gutted the car there is one ground I know of under the dash that needs to stay put
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west6
Heat Winner
Bryan West
Posts: 574
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Post by west6 on Jul 27, 2019 23:44:40 GMT -5
Have you messed with the coil packs at all they need a good ground as well the metal base is part of the ground normally...then there is a inline fuse on the radiator support on the left side... if you have gutted the car there is one ground I know of under the dash that needs to stay put I haven’t stripped anything yet. Wanted to get it running before I went too far. Is the inline fuse for the coil packs? Guess I need to remove the coil packs and see if I am getting any power/ground too them and ohm them out.I know the ICM has power going to it as well as the crank sensor.
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Post by JR/77x on Jul 28, 2019 12:15:08 GMT -5
I’m unsure about what that fuse dose just know it will not start without it but I take and cut the fuse link off and splice the wires together soldier or wire nut and tape and yes the coil packs need a good ground off the bracket they are mounted too.
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west6
Heat Winner
Bryan West
Posts: 574
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Post by west6 on Jul 29, 2019 0:50:04 GMT -5
Did a little probing around. ICM has 12v on the pink wire, white with black wire has 12v going to the crank sensor with the key in the run position. Coil pack 1/4 primary resistance showed 0.8ohms and secondary 5740ohms. Pack 2/5 primary resistance showed 0.8ohms and secondary 5730ohms. Pack 3/6 primary resistance showed 0.8ohms and secondary 5850ohms. The power terminal for each coil pack on the ICM showed it had 12V. Do my coils seem to have enough secondary resistance? Still a hard 12 code when jumping the data port and a check engine light on. New ICM, battery, and crank sensor. ICM seems to have a good clean ground and all wires are intact. I’m lost haha
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west6
Heat Winner
Bryan West
Posts: 574
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Post by west6 on Aug 2, 2019 20:59:27 GMT -5
Ended up finding someone had installed a Viper 300 security system... cut it all out, hooked everything back up as it should be, then the car threw a code 42. I let it set overnight, and the next morning it was throwing a hard constant 12 code again.
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west6
Heat Winner
Bryan West
Posts: 574
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Post by west6 on Aug 19, 2019 11:55:33 GMT -5
Any help would be appreciated. Derby is Friday and still no luck. Still have a hard 12 code “no distributor reference pulse.” I have replaced the ICM with a brand new one, brand new crank shaft sensor, new battery. All fuses are good, none blown. I took the inline fuse link out by the relays behind the passenger side headlights and hard wired it. All relays are good. I have 12v with the key on on the ICM, 12v coming out of the ICM going to the coil with the key on, crankshaft sensor has 12v when I check for voltage between c/d pins with the key on. I’ve had a noid light on all wires from the coil and when cranking there’s no fire. The harmonic balancer looks fine and I made sure I gapped the reluctant rings with the sensor. Fuel pump is new and with the main fuel delivery line removed going to the motor and the key is cycled there is all kinds of fuel. The Schroeder valve has no fuel coming out, even with the valve core removed. I’ve also tried another pcm that we pulled from a running car and no luck. I have no fire coming out of the coils, no fuel at the Schroeder valve. All cylinders have 155psi and it’s in time. There is no vats/ chipped key. Any suggestions? 91 3.3 Oldsmobile cutlass cruiser
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Post by JR/77x on Aug 20, 2019 0:03:23 GMT -5
I’m sorry I can’t help more I have never had this big of issues with the 3.3l they’re awesome cars though you’ve done more than I would’ve trying to find the issue, check grounds under the dash again on passenger side and try messing with the plug that screws into the coils, don’t want to sound like a broken record but the plate that the coils are mounted to is the ground for them
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west6
Heat Winner
Bryan West
Posts: 574
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Post by west6 on Aug 20, 2019 13:54:55 GMT -5
I appreciate the input. I got the fuel issue solved, all I know to do is take the ICM to the store and have them test it or I bought a bad crank sensor.This thing makes no sense!
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Post by JR/77x on Aug 20, 2019 19:58:30 GMT -5
Probably right about the crank sensor if it’s my guess, that’s the only downside and issue I’ve really had with the 3.3l is the magnet falling off the cps during a derby so if you ever get it up and and going I like to super glue it while running to solve that issue
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