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Post by C4 on Jun 18, 2012 18:46:24 GMT -5
It's what we have done in many non GM compacts. 20 minutes on brackets & jam all the wires together in a bundle. But if the Mopar is a pretty simple wire setup, we'll give it a shot. Thanks.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Jun 19, 2012 10:37:45 GMT -5
personal preference I guess. It takes me longer to fabricate brackets than to splice a couple of wires
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six
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Post by six on Jun 19, 2012 18:17:20 GMT -5
Please don't beat me up if this is already posted somewhere. I am not a mechanic. I want to wire my first car, with some help of course from you guys. I have a 1985 5th Avenue that I drove off the trailer several years ago, so I know it ran when I brought it home. It has sat for the past few years. I recently pulled it out of the feild to work on it. I have tried to start it, but it doesn't do anything. It doesn't try to turn over. I want to try to wire it up thinking perhaps a wire got chewed by mice or something. I believe it is a 318. Which diagram will I be using?
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Black333
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Post by Black333 on Jun 19, 2012 18:55:10 GMT -5
Make sure its in park. Jump the two big wires witj a pair of pliers. On the starter relay. Should be on the driver side inner fender. Does it crank?
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six
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Post by six on Jun 20, 2012 7:36:42 GMT -5
I'm at work now. Will try later tonight and the let you know. Thanks.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Jun 20, 2012 12:04:21 GMT -5
if you really want to simplify, look at the connections at the starter. There is a small and a big wire. The big goes to battery positive and the small is the trigger for the starter.
Trace these to where they come up the driver's inner fender. Disconnect the small wire where it terminates at the starter relay. Jump this to battery positive and it should turn over.
If it doesn't, get a test light or voltmeter and verify 12v power at the big terminal of the starter. Try jumping across the two terminals there at the starter with a screwdriver. Still nothing? Starter may be kaput, it happens.
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six
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Post by six on Jun 20, 2012 17:20:54 GMT -5
I did trace the small wire from the starter to the relay on the firewall and unplugged it. Then used a heavy wire to jump it from the positive terminal of the battery and it turned over. Starting fluid, still no start but was cranking. Then I remembered there wasnt much gas in it 3 years ago. I cut and removed the rubber fuel lines where they enter the tank underneath the car near the rear wheel on the passenger side. Connected long rubber lines to both steel lines underneath the car and ran them into a 5 gallon can of gas. Tried it again with more starting fluid. pumped the pedal a couple of times and tried again jumping the small wire to the battery and it was running again, idling real nice after a minute or two. walked around the other side of the car to check my fuel lines and there was gas dripping in several spots - not my connections - but the lines are rusted out in several spots. So good news is I got it running. The small wire on the starter looks pretty frayed and was actually exposed - so I guess that is the problem. So couple questions...where is the fuel pump on these? I will eventually have to run a rubber fuel line from the fuel cell to the motor and a return line. I want to make sure I don't bypass the pump by accident if it somewhere in the line Next thing.... Should I try to rewire what I think is a bad line and run it off the key? Should I leave it the way it is and run a small wire from the starter to inside the car and touch it to line to the battery inside the car? Or wire it according to one of the photos shown? if so, which photo?
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Black333
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Post by Black333 on Jun 20, 2012 23:11:47 GMT -5
The fuel pump is on the pass. Side front of the motor. Right behind the lower radiator hose. You do not need a return line. Either plug the return line at the pump or better off get a pump for a older model with no return line. For the wiring i would gut it all and buy a points distributor and be done.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Jun 21, 2012 10:46:03 GMT -5
the pump will not have a return line but the filter might. If so, just get a new filter with no return line and forget it.
- yes run rubber hose from a boat tank in the back seat through the passenger side firewall and to the pump - simple in line filter between the pump and the carb - throw the stock ignition system far far away and buy a points distributor for a 1969 Plymouth Fury with a 318. they are about $40 at Auto Zone or other parts stores - wiring diagrams are in this very thread on page 1 - forget the key switch. Move your battery inside to the passenger floor. Check the diagrams for points ignition and starting system, you can PM me if you get stuck. If you feel a little bit confident with your wiring skills you can run the charging system too. It's not difficult, just need a little gumption and some tools.
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six
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Post by six on Aug 17, 2012 17:56:43 GMT -5
I installed a points distributer. First time for me. It runs. Seams to idle OK, but when its in gear it is rough. I assume I need to adust the distributer a bit and check timing....but it is running. Here is another question or two..... 1. All those lines/vacuum hoses...are they needed? Do I need to plug any of them? Is there any that I need to keep? I wasnt sure if it was running rough because a line/hose needs tended to. 2. I can remove the cruise control and everything that goes with it? yes? 3. I am about to remove the manifolds to put on a set of headers from a 318 dodge truck I have. I remember I had to remove the brake booster and bolt the master cylinder to the firewall and use a rod that I fabbed up to go from the pedal to the master cylinder. My headers wont fit with the master cylinder and booster in the way. I assume I can remove it just like in my pick up truck? 4. Just thought of this...I wired the distributer up like the picture, minus the test light and the ballast resistor. Is there a resistor on an 83 new yorker or do I have to buy one? 5. I assume I can loop the heater hoses to eliminate one of them as well...correct? 6. I should probably put new plugs in it as well or not? who knows how old they are. 7. I pulled the 2 rubber spacers near the core support. Where are the rest and how many do I need to look for?
just fabbed a tranny shifter according to dm440c's instruction on another thread. So far so good. This stuff is all new to me and I am learning a ton from you guys and I really appreciate everything
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Aug 20, 2012 11:50:44 GMT -5
from above with responses in bold:
I installed a points distributer. First time for me. It runs. Seams to idle OK, but when its in gear it is rough. I assume I need to adust the distributer a bit and check timing....but it is running. Here is another question or two..... 1. All those lines/vacuum hoses...are they needed? Do I need to plug any of them? Is there any that I need to keep? I wasnt sure if it was running rough because a line/hose needs tended to. I plug all vacuum lines 2. I can remove the cruise control and everything that goes with it? yes? yes 3. I am about to remove the manifolds to put on a set of headers from a 318 dodge truck I have. I remember I had to remove the brake booster and bolt the master cylinder to the firewall and use a rod that I fabbed up to go from the pedal to the master cylinder. My headers wont fit with the master cylinder and booster in the way. I assume I can remove it just like in my pick up truck? yes but it would help to know what kind of car you are working on. I am guessing it is an M body form the next question. There is a thread "all about Mopar brakes/steering" that talks about this and also in the tips threads for the specific car models there is usually some discussion about this. 4. Just thought of this...I wired the distributer up like the picture, minus the test light and the ballast resistor. Is there a resistor on an 83 new yorker or do I have to buy one? should I assume you are working on an 83 NYer...? seems logical from this. ok, yes you should use a ballast resistor for the ignition but if you are not comfortable with electrical work & testing then the easiest thing to do is go back to the parts store and buy one for a 1969 Plymouth Fury. They're cheap. 5. I assume I can loop the heater hoses to eliminate one of them as well...correct? yes loop the two 5/8" heater hoses together 6. I should probably put new plugs in it as well or not? who knows how old they are. yes 7. I pulled the 2 rubber spacers near the core support. Where are the rest and how many do I need to look for? again assuming 83 NYer which is classified as an M body, there are two more at the back of the K frame. Look at the crossmember under the engine, study it a minute so you can tell the difference between it and the rest of the chassis. You'll find the two rubbers at the back of the K.
By the way, you can be reading about all of this is the 76-89 F/M/J body tips thread
just fabbed a tranny shifter according to dm440c's instruction on another thread. So far so good. This stuff is all new to me and I am learning a ton from you guys and I really appreciate everything
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Punisher 66J
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Post by Punisher 66J on Dec 21, 2012 20:24:32 GMT -5
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Post by decker on Dec 21, 2012 20:48:49 GMT -5
on the points setup. I know a lot of guys run ballast resistors but i DO NOT. INSTEAD i buy a coil that says on it " No external resistor needed. so its got a resistor inside it. Just about the same price at Napa and Ive Never had a problem. Now im deff behind the times. But i just buy a new distr drop it in, run my coil and have 1 wire back to my cage to twist to my power wire... I only run 3 wires.... 4 w an electric fan....JMO!!!!! ;D
anyways Its one less thing to go bad. I hear those ballast resistors are fragile...
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Punisher 66J
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Post by Punisher 66J on Dec 21, 2012 20:51:25 GMT -5
on the points setup. I know a lot of guys run ballast resistors but i DO NOT. INSTEAD i buy a coil that says on it " No external resistor needed. so its got a resistor inside it. Just about the same price at Napa and Ive Never had a problem. Now im deff behind the times. But i just buy a new distr drop it in, run my coil and have 1 wire back to my cage to twist to my power wire... I only run 3 wires.... 4 w an electric fan....JMO!!!!! ;D anyways Its one less thing to go bad. I hear those ballast resistors are fragile... So just so I have it right you run this setup just with an internal resisted coil?
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Post by decker on Dec 21, 2012 21:05:04 GMT -5
correct...i need to keep everything simple....for me it works.. 3 wires...... coil wire... power from the battery and my starter wire
twist the power and coil together.... touch your starter wire to it and go ;D
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