|
Post by mitchell25 on Jan 26, 2012 12:18:51 GMT -5
I'm talking about the condensor. i sold my engines off so i couldn't look at them. This pre ran car i just bought has what i think is a bad coil. Has 12 volts on switch side but no volts on side going to the points (distibutor). i bought a new coil and when i went to put it on i noticed there is no condensor on there setup. i have one just not sure which side of the coil it goes on + or - side.
|
|
dm440c
Feature Winner
derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
Posts: 2,824
|
Post by dm440c on Jan 27, 2012 11:35:17 GMT -5
ummm...... you're still confusing me. The condenser is inside the distributor. You don't get to choose which side of the coil it goes on The points wiring diagram is on page 1 for reference
|
|
|
Post by mitchell25 on Jan 27, 2012 12:26:51 GMT -5
Now i'm confused also. i use to have a little cylinder thing that bolted right were the coil hold down bolts are and had one wire coming out that went right to the coil on one side or the other (+ or -). it was only about 2 inch long and the wire was about the same lenght. The motor was out of a dippy i believe. Maybe it was something that didn't matter and i just had there. I'll look in the distributor and see if i see anything else besides the points. i'll see if i can get picks if we are still not on the same page. thanks for the patience Robert
|
|
Black333
Heat Winner
I might suck at this more than you but, you never know
Posts: 430
|
Post by Black333 on Jan 27, 2012 14:01:14 GMT -5
That would be the noise suppresor (spell) you dont need it. if you dont have 12 volts to the + side of the coil your switch is bad or the wiring is bad.
|
|
|
Post by mitchell25 on Jan 27, 2012 16:11:07 GMT -5
i have 12 volts to positive side but no volts to the points
|
|
|
Post by mitchell25 on Jan 27, 2012 20:11:43 GMT -5
new coil and it fired right up. out goes the noise suppressor. thanks for your guys help, greatly appreiciated (spell)!
|
|
|
Post by C4 on May 15, 2012 14:24:53 GMT -5
Using an '89 318. Ditching the lean burn for an old points distributor...don't know what year. I should be able to eliminate the need for a ballast resistor by using a Ford or GM points ignition coil, which have the resistor built in. Is that correct? Thanks.
|
|
|
Post by XtremeMopar#307 on May 15, 2012 22:37:26 GMT -5
in all reality you dont need a resistor at all, its more of a safety issue, always be sure to turn your switch off tho... i ran with a resistor 2 years, im trying it this year without just because I can
|
|
catfish
Heat Winner
I BLEED MOPAR
Posts: 168
|
Post by catfish on May 16, 2012 11:29:54 GMT -5
I always run a resistor and have a spare mounted next to it.
|
|
catfish
Heat Winner
I BLEED MOPAR
Posts: 168
|
Post by catfish on May 16, 2012 11:30:50 GMT -5
Using an '89 318. Ditching the lean burn for an old points distributor...don't know what year. I should be able to eliminate the need for a ballast resistor by using a Ford or GM points ignition coil, which have the resistor built in. Is that correct? Thanks. Yes, an internally resisted coil would solve that issue.
|
|
|
Post by C4 on May 16, 2012 11:40:42 GMT -5
Thanks.
|
|
dm440c
Feature Winner
derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
Posts: 2,824
|
Post by dm440c on May 23, 2012 11:01:22 GMT -5
(sigh) another new message board, another round of patiently explaining why the coil + ballast resistor is the best method..... sorry guys, I'm tired, I just can't do it all over again. Maybe someday I'll start saving it all as a text file so I can copy-n-paste every time.
|
|
|
Post by C4 on Jun 16, 2012 21:49:12 GMT -5
1970 & up dual field charging system (you don't have to use the starter relay.... I just show it as a jumper point for 12v feed) I am a little confused. What is that connection point where the 2 field wires are going? Is that an external voltage regulator, or can this be done up GM style?............splice the 3 wires together and run them to the + side of the battery through a switch?
|
|
|
Post by C4 on Jun 16, 2012 22:12:43 GMT -5
I think I answered my own question by looking up a regulator on ebay. The donor car that the engine came from should still have this. Will it be simpler to just fab brackets for a GM alternator?
|
|
dm440c
Feature Winner
derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
Posts: 2,824
|
Post by dm440c on Jun 18, 2012 10:56:27 GMT -5
yeah it's an external regulator. You just need that box and the harness connector from a donor car to splice to.
Chrysler engineering philosophy tended to be that it is better to separate out components for reasons of reliability and service/diagnostics. GM engineering philosophy tended to be to bundle components to save money during assembly and let the service people figure out the problems later. Personally I think clearly the Chrysler way is better.
"Is it easier"? I say no, because making a couple of splice wiring connections is something I find to be easy to do. If for some reason you are one of the people who can't get comfortable with connecting a few wires then maybe you would find it easier to futz around with fabbing up a bracket system that positions and aligns a GM alternator correctly. I can only scratch my head in wonder but it is true that some people prefer that method.
|
|