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Post by oldtrx on Dec 5, 2011 18:22:53 GMT -5
tips pm mounting subframe? blow out rear holes and 1" allthread should work there but what about the 2 small bolts on each side on the front?
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Post by rosco128 on Dec 6, 2011 13:53:14 GMT -5
i have a 68 nyer i closed the y and put gm shocks inside the frame welded top and bottom. 1 in all thread behind the core support and all body mounts. i used the stock bumper mounts ( thick metal straps that go to the corners of the bumper) and welded to frame and to the corners of my stuffed olds bumper. well the frame wrinkled like an accordian the first derby so i pulled i down and plated it now its about 4 inches shorter than normal and stout. my cage has door bars welded to the sub frame about half way between the trans mount and firewall and after the second run i noticed the frame has just a little wrinkle on the passenger side between the a arm and firewall so im wondering if theres a way to fix this? this is the first mopar ive built and i love it but its a total different beast from the gms im used to
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Post by fordpowerforever on Dec 6, 2011 13:56:33 GMT -5
just plate as much as you can get away with. i try to do the same on the other side too, so i dont make one side stronger then the other. make sure you have a good steering setup. i have a 68 nyer i closed the y and put gm shocks inside the frame welded top and bottom. 1 in all thread behind the core support and all body mounts. i used the stock bumper mounts ( thick metal straps that go to the corners of the bumper) and welded to frame and to the corners of my stuffed olds bumper. well the frame wrinkled like an accordian the first derby so i pulled i down and plated it now its about 4 inches shorter than normal and stout. my cage has door bars welded to the sub frame about half way between the trans mount and firewall and after the second run i noticed the frame has just a little wrinkle on the passenger side between the a arm and firewall so im wondering if theres a way to fix this? this is the first mopar ive built and i love it but its a total different beast from the gms im used to
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Post by rosco128 on Dec 6, 2011 14:03:55 GMT -5
we are allowed to run straps from the block to the frame and thats what im thinking about doing but the rules says 2 inches from arm which isnt where its bending but we are also allowed 16 inches of additional frame welding behind the arms so do u think the combination of the two would help it out or should i just plate it and chance them making me cut it
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Post by tbostock on Dec 6, 2011 14:34:10 GMT -5
just cut a hole in the middle of the plate so they can see that its bent and call it a repair. straps from the motor down to the frame isnt going to keep it from bending after its bent, but it does help with a fresh car.
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Post by fordpowerforever on Dec 6, 2011 15:23:46 GMT -5
what motor you got in it??? i i would atleast weld the frame seams top and bottom behind the a arms at least to the firewall...i would personally plate the outside, they will be able to see from the top thats its bent, and if the other side isnt bent you can always make the top look bent and then plate it to match
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Post by rosco128 on Dec 6, 2011 17:21:42 GMT -5
its got a sbc but its not bent much its just got a little ripple in it but i know another couple good shots and its gonna give.
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Post by fordpowerforever on Dec 6, 2011 19:24:13 GMT -5
if you havent cut the firewall and can get a away with it, put in a stout distributor protector once it hits the firewall it will slow the bending down, but seam welding and plate is your best bet
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dm440c
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derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
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Post by dm440c on Dec 7, 2011 11:47:13 GMT -5
that's just what they do. The gage of steel used in Y frames is not impressive, so plate it here and it wrinkles there, plate it there and it wrinkles somewhere else. Keep pulling and plating until there's nothing left or you get bored with the car, whichever comes first ;D
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Post by rosco128 on Dec 7, 2011 12:35:27 GMT -5
firewall is already cut and the refs are a lil picky on dp if they look life there doing anything whats so ever they make the rule of if its touching anything at the end of the night ur dq. thanks for all the comments tho eventually ill get this mopar thing figured out. just tring to get one built like another driver here. his car dont move EVER
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Post by fordpowerforever on Dec 7, 2011 13:30:06 GMT -5
firewall is already cut and the refs are a lil picky on dp if they look life there doing anything whats so ever they make the rule of if its touching anything at the end of the night ur dq. thanks for all the comments tho eventually ill get this mopar thing figured out. just tring to get one built like another driver here. his car dont move EVER probably not legal then hahaha
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Post by 313evans on Dec 11, 2011 21:26:32 GMT -5
how hard is it to put a-arms of a 74 impala on to a 65 imp i want to change the steering box, tie rods everything?
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Post by fordpowerforever on Dec 12, 2011 0:27:30 GMT -5
how hard is it to put a-arms of a 74 impala on to a 65 imp i want to change the steering box, tie rods everything? you got the wrong thread, this is for c bodies, look at the 64-66 imp thread, there is some guys in there that should be able to help.
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Post by K.Baker 29K on Dec 12, 2011 9:06:45 GMT -5
57sweat what do you mean the boxes need tied back? sorry im a dumb ass haha
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Post by tbostock on Dec 12, 2011 10:10:56 GMT -5
that's just what they do. The gage of steel used in Y frames is not impressive, so plate it here and it wrinkles there, plate it there and it wrinkles somewhere else. Keep pulling and plating until there's nothing left or you get bored with the car, whichever comes first ;D maybe the rules that i run are alot different than other peoples, but all but one car that i have built, bend in the same spots everytime. i will agree with you that the frames are not thick, but i like how consistent they bend, and the amount of hits i can give before they bend. jmo
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