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Post by pasterofmuppets on Dec 1, 2012 13:03:31 GMT -5
what is it with everyone thinking they need to pitch 77 and up GM's? The front will stay down on it's own, the frame is already straight and tilting them, unless you have extreme knowledge of how to prevent the frame in front of the a-arms from blowing apart once you do tilt them, will cause you much more problems than benefits. If you pitch it, you are just as likely for the frame to go down at the firewall and up in front of the a-arms, and well, that's just bad um-kay...
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noser23x
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Post by noser23x on Dec 1, 2012 13:19:59 GMT -5
whats the best way to tilt/pitch these cars?? i have a 77 caprice wagon, just looking for more opinions on it. thanks in advance!! Well this is just my opinion, I set the back end, and cut a pie slice out at the crossmember, then stand back about 10 feet and pull out my shrink ray. I usually try to hit with my shrink ray right in between the doors. I usually shrink until it can fit in the palm of your hand. I got my shrink ray from a shady garage sale but you might be able to find one at Walmart. Pick it up but be careful be cause its fragile. Then I grab both bumpers and push to make the slices closed up. Then you need a buddy, I shrink myself and make sure the slices are closed fully, then the buddy shrinks the welder and i weld her back together, then my buddy blows me back to full size. Then I set it back on the ground, set my ray to grow, then get it back to size. It helps if you measure bumper to bumper before the process. So when you blow it back up its the right size. Now make sure your welds are good, boom tilted.
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Post by pasterofmuppets on Dec 1, 2012 13:35:00 GMT -5
^^^^ There's actually a lot of good info inside that story there. However I'm still not a fan of it and won't be as long as I still have old iron to run. I've hit way too many soft body metrics head on that were cool and tilted and sent the nose skyward in front of the a-arms. People may have done it and had great success with it. Leave the tilting to the fords, your advantage is shocks inside the frame and a trunk that can actually be used to hit something.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2012 17:31:15 GMT -5
All the Metrics I've seen went up before the A-Arms. There's a current discussion on the sedan thread as well. We just ditch the front shock, and use a pipe.
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Post by cheater111 on Dec 2, 2012 10:50:15 GMT -5
^^^^^ the expert knows it all
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2012 11:03:01 GMT -5
^^^^^ the expert knows it all I'm no expert by any means. But the one we built went up in front of the A Arms and it wasn't tilted.. We have 2 more. Probably going to leaf convert and tilt the one. And see how that does. I've actually built one, and I've seen it with my eyes.
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noser23x
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Post by noser23x on Dec 2, 2012 12:40:58 GMT -5
^^^^^ the expert knows it all I just don't understand this guy, he is just an a-hole! What's the difference if he shares the information or somebody else does. I just don't understand what he's done to you that you have to be such a douche.
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Post by wagonman1993 on Dec 11, 2012 22:41:07 GMT -5
okay when you guys are notching the frame and dimpling behind the humps are you leaving the rear bumper on or just running without one?
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noser23x
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Post by noser23x on Dec 11, 2012 22:56:12 GMT -5
okay when you guys are notching the frame and dimpling behind the humps are you leaving the rear bumper on or just running without one? I would run one, you don't need a good bumper on the back though, you just need something to hold the rails together.
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Post by sceard55x on Dec 12, 2012 13:04:14 GMT -5
Bop bumper brackets welded to the out side of the frame helps some with bending in front of a arms and I run rear bumpers on mine
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Post by wagonman1993 on Dec 14, 2012 0:48:37 GMT -5
so for tilting these chevys u should notch it all the way back at the trans crossmember. Do u think it would work if u notched it right behind the firewall body bolt. like say 2-3 inches back from it. Also what is everyone putting in the gap for the body to the frame if its notched back further. thanks any info would be great. ill tell ya in a month Okay i have a couple questions i have an 89 wagon and i am aloud to tilt it. in this pic it looks like the v was about an inch wide at the bottom does that sound about right how much should i cut out here and how many inches should i be going for when i tilt and reweld the frame. i can plate over where i cut and reweld also to help reinforce it
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-75x-
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Post by -75x- on Dec 14, 2012 0:58:56 GMT -5
i would start by measuring the distance from ground to bottom of frame at front... id go with a with a 1/4" gap pie slice or so.. push down.. if you dont liek the measurement results... you can always go more...
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Post by wagonman1993 on Dec 14, 2012 19:57:19 GMT -5
okay so i know this is going to sound stupid but your trying to bring the front end down and the frame where you cut it up right? and when you say push it down you mean the front end?
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Punisher 66J
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Post by Punisher 66J on Dec 14, 2012 21:11:11 GMT -5
okay so i know this is going to sound stupid but your trying to bring the front end down and the frame where you cut it up right? and when you say push it down you mean the front end? Yes, make your cuts on bottom of frame and then push your front end down.
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Post by wagonman1993 on Dec 14, 2012 22:29:23 GMT -5
okay thanks ill give it a try
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