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Post by Lola B Derby on Jun 3, 2019 20:40:24 GMT -5
2019 CLARK COUNTY FAIR DEMOLITION DERBY Marshall, IL
Saturday, August 10th
Full Size Car Derby Starts at 7:00 pm
Entry for Driver: $25.00
Pit Pass: $15.00
Grandstands: $7.00
For rule clarification text or call after 5pm:
Shawn Robison (Promoter) 217-264-6047
Wes Adams (Head Inspector) 812-201-4763 (works swing shift so text and he will get back with you)
80’S & NEWER BONE STOCK $1000 for 1st $500 for 2nd $300 for 3rd
OLD SCHOOL/SEMI STOCK $1000 for 1st $500 for 2nd $300 for 3rd
MODS $1000 for 1st $500 for 2nd $300 for 3rd
PROMODS $1000 for 1st $500 for 2nd $300 for 3rd
Payouts are guaranteed if 5 cars show up for class.
GENERAL RULES
1. Alcoholic beverages are not allowed on Fair Grounds Property. All vehicles entering the infield will be subject to searches. Any Driver found under the influence of alcohol or drugs will be disqualified and removed from the premises with their entry fee being forfeited.
2. Drivers must be 16 or older to enter. Drivers under the age of 18 must have parent or guardian sign a waiver.
3. Drivers, Officials, and Emergency Personnel only allowed on the track. Any driver or crewmember that disobeys this rule may cause their vehicle to be disqualified. No Exceptions
4. Infield speeds will be enforced. No hot-rodding, donuts, or other unsafe driving will be tolerated.
5. All drivers must attend the drivers meeting. Any controversies must be brought up and settled here.
6. Please take all scrap with you. All items, including vehicles, left in the infield the following day will become property of the Clark County Fair Association.
7. Cars must have working brakes and seatbelt. Seatbelts must be worn while on the track.
8. DOT approved helmet, eye protection, long pants, and long sleeve shirt must be worn while on the track.
9. Cars must be painted tastefully. No profanity or offensive material allowed on the car, to include the number. Driver’s door should be painted white for your safety.
10. No Painting, undercoating, oiling, or greasing of frames. Cars with this done may not be inspected.
11. One warning for fire in engine compartment, the second results in disqualification. Fire in driver’s compartment will result in immediate disqualification. If problems occur in heat, car may be fixed and run in consolation.
12. Intentional driver’s door hits will not be tolerated. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rule. Unintentional and uncontrollable door hits happen and will be monitored by track officials.
13. Contact must be made within 60 seconds. We will not tell you how to drive your car, but those driving the hardest will get the longest clock if need be. The fans pay for a show, so be professional and put one on for them.
14. Winning cars plus the next three out of the money must remain on the track until released by an official, or prize money may not be paid. Cars are subject to re-inspection after the feature event.
15. Driver’s qualify for feature events, not the cars.
16. No reinforcements allowed other than specified below. These rules are guidelines for what is allowed. Building in the grey may subject you to disqualification. If it’s not listed in these guidelines, call before you do it.
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Post by Lola B Derby on Jun 3, 2019 20:40:37 GMT -5
80’s & NEWER BONE STOCK RULES
All cars must be 1980 or newer and passenger car or station wagon to compete.
General Rules
-Remove all glass, mirrors, carpet, and plastic. Remove all decking on station wagons.
-Vehicles must be swept clean of all debris.
-All cars must have working brakes.
-Battery must be mounted securely in the driver’s compartment, no bungy straps. Only 1 car type battery allowed. Battery box size is limited to a max of 18"x12" and can be welded to the cage or bolted securely to the passenger side floor pan. No bolts may be attached to the frame. Floor sheet metal only. It must be on the flat part of the floor pan only and not running up the firewall. You have to have a cover over the battery.
-Fuel tanks must be securely mounted behind the driver or passenger seat area. You can use a fuel cell or boat tank. Plastic tanks are not recommended, but if you choose to use one it needs to be mounted in a steel containment box and away from the doors and rear firewall. Once again, securely mounted. Using bungy straps over the top of them will not work.
-You may run an electric fuel pump, but must wired to a kill switch and clearly marked.
-Fuel lines must run through the car and not underneath. Keep all fuel lines away from headers or pinch points on the firewall that could cut the line.
-You must have a working seatbelt.
-If you're not running headers through the hood, you need to have at least 8" hole cut in the hood above or around the carburetor in case of a fire.
-For inspection you need to bring your hoods with your car, and be able to open them. If running a trunk lid it needs to be open at inspection.
-Absolutely no hammering or creasing of the body allowed. No pre-bending of any kind. Station wagons may not be tucked or sedagoned at any time, even pre-ran.
-Anything may be removed from the car, but nothing can be added unless stated in the rules.
-If you have floor pans that are rusted out, you may patch them using sheet metal only. Rust must be visible and 1" overlap around the rust. No other rust patching allowed.
-You may run aftermarket gas/brake/clutch pedal setups. They can be mounted to the cage or drivers floorboard. However, if they bolt to the floor it cannot be slanted up towards the firewall and the max size is 14" wide by 21" long. Can only be mounted to the floor sheet metal. Pedals cannot be attached to the cage and the floor. One or the other.
Doors
-All doors must be wired, chained, or welded shut.
-Front doors may be welded using up to 2"x1/8" strap. You may weld up to 12" on each front door vertical seems only. It may be one continuous weld, or broken up, but only 12" per seem on front doors only.
-The back door vertical seem may be welded up to 6" using up to 2"X1/8" strap. It may also be continuous or broken up, but only 6".
-Note, the doors may not be welded all the way around, only vertical seem.
-You cannot weld the inner and outer skin together.
-If you choose not to weld the door, they must wired or chained in at least 4 spots per door.
Cage
-A back spreader bar behind the driver’s seat, running side to side is mandatory, but a full cage is recommended.
-You may have a standard 4 pt. cage with 4 downlegs to the sheetmetal. All horizontal cage components must be at least 8" above frame level. You may have one bar running side to side in place of the dash and one running side to side no more than 6" behind the front seat, and the front seat must be bolted in the factory location. You may have a driver and passenger side door bar connecting the front and back bar. The side bars may not be any further back than 8" behind the front seat. You may have up to 4 downlegs running to the floor sheetmetal only, not to the frame. Front downlegs may be no further forward than the front door inner door seem, and the back downlegs may be no further back than your back spreader bar.
-You may have one rollover bar that runs straight and over. It can run under or above the the roof of the car, and attach to your side or back bar. No angling of the rollover bar, it must be straight up and down.
-A small gas tank protector will be allowed off of your back spreader bar. It is to be no wider than 24" and must be a minimum of 10" away from the doors. It must be a minimum of 4" away from rear firewall. This must attach to the back spreader bar only and nothing else.
Body Mounts
-All body mounts be completely stock and untouched except for the the front core support mount. If you have a rusted or broken body bolt, you may double wrap 9 wire around the frame and floor at that location only. No body bolts may be added.
-To help keep the body attached to the frame in the rear of the car you may run #9 wire from the rear taillight panel around the frame or back bumper. You may have 4 spots double wrapped.
-The front two core support mounts may be replaced with up to 3/4" allthread. This may run thru the frame and up thru the hood. You may use up to a 4" tall spacer between the bottom of core support and the frame, no bigger than 2"x2" square or 2" round tubing. This may not be welded to the frame or core support, and must start on top of the frame and stop at the bottom of the core support. Max washer size is limited to 4"x4"X1/4", and may not be double nutted anywhere.
Trunks
-Trunk lids must remain on the hinges or must be completely removed. You may tuck the trunk lid using one 90 degree bend: It must be completely stock, outside of that.
-Trunk lids can be #9 wired to the quarter panels, and/or speaker tray in up to 6 spots. You can use up to 2 loops of wire in these locations. Note: this needs to be done after inspection, and this is the only way you can attach your trunk lid.
-You may run 2 loops of #9 wire from quarter panel to quarter panel.
Hood/Cowl
-Outside of your 2 allthreads at the core support mount, you can #9 wire your hood down in up to 4 spots with 2 loops of wire. It can attach to the front bumper if you choose to.
-For safety you must have at least 9 wire or a chain ran from the roof to the top of the cowl in the windshield opening. You may run up to two 2"x1/4" metal straps if you prefer.
Drivetrain
-You can use the engine and transmission of your choice. However, engine cradles, distributer protectors, header and carb protectors, pulley protectors, and trans braces are not allowed. No protectors of any kind. Engines must use factory style engine mounts and nothing aftermarket or homemade. Engines must mount within 4" factory location. The mounting pad may be welded to the frames ends carriage.
-You may use an aftermarket steel bellhousing for safety purposes, but no other bracing is allowed and no aftermarket tail shafts. Transmission must use a factory mount, or can be 9 wired to the crossmember.
-Floor shifter or cable shifter is allowed.
-Rearend swaps are not allowed. You cannot have any bracing on the rearend what so ever. Keep it all stock. You may lock the rearend by welding the spider gears, or using a spool. You can run whatever gear you'd like.
-Slider driveshafts are not permitted.
-You can run headers through the hood.
-Transmission and oil coolers are allowed, but be securely mounted and use high pressure lines.
-One factory car type radiator located in factory location. Aftermarket aluminum radiators are fine. You may use an electric fan. No extra engine cooling devices. If using a normal clutch type fan, your hood must cover it.
-Radiators can be mounted how they came from the factory, or you may #9 wire them or ratchet strap them to the core support. The only thing allowed in front of the radiator is one ac condenser.
Steering/Suspension
-Steering swaps are not allowed. All steering components must be the stock OEM parts for the car you are running. If parts need replaced go to the parts store and get the factory replacement part. Factory steering columns must be used, but you may alter the lower shaft (firewall to box) to help aid in losing steering. However, the box must be stock for that car. Tie rods cannot be reinforced in any way.
-You cannot lock your suspension solid. No welding on the a arms, or bolting them down, and no allthread shocks. You may change coil springs to help gain height.
-If you have a leafspring car, factory leafpacks, shackles, and clamps must me used.
-No coil to leafspring conversions.
-You may not chain rearends in. You can 9 wire springs to the rearend and to the package tray the spring sits in. Leaf spring cars may loops of 9 wire from the rearend to the body/unibody.
Bumpers/Frame
-Any passenger car bumper may be used for the front and back bumper. All bumper seems may be welded and the chrome skin may be beat flat and welded to the backing. Front bumpers only may be loaded on the inside of the bumper only. The chrome skin and backing of the bumper must appear factory from the outside. You may use up to a 6"x6" mounting plate if you'd like. Back bumper can be swapped, but may not be reinforced.
-When mounting front bumpers you may do one of 3 ways. Choose only one.
1. Use the factory shock. You can collapse the shock and weld the shock all the way around. Weld the shock to the frame and the bumper to the shock. No welding of the shock beyond 6" behind the factory core support mount. It must be left factory behind that point. You may weld a 2"X1/4" strap from the bumper to the frame, also 6" behind the core support mount to help hold the bumper on.
2. Do away with the factory shock and use up to a 2"x2" piece of square tubing inside the frame, or welded to the outside. It can be no further back than 6" behind the core support mount. No strap may be used if using this method.
3. Weld the bumper straight to the frame and use a 2"x1/4" strap welded to the bumper and on one side of the frame no further than 6" behind the factory core support mount.
-Note, you may trim the front frame down to square it up to make it easier to weld the bumper to it. However, the core mount and mounting bracket must stay in the factory location.
-The back bumper mounts and shocks must be used and not altered or welded on in any way. You may weld a piece of 2"X1/4" strap from the bumper to the frame, no more than 4" on the frame to help hold it on.
-The factory transmission crossmember must be used. You may use of to a 4"x4"x6” 1/4" thick piece of angle iron welded to the frame to bolt or weld the crossmember to.
-You may notch/dimple rear frame rails.
-Absolutely no other welding may be done on the frame other than the bumper, engine mount, and crossmember mount. No seam welding.
-No frame shaping, pitching or cold tilting allowed.
-Pre-ran cars may have 6. 4"x6"x1/4" band-aid plates on a bent , rusted or broken frame. Fresh cars are aloud 2 plates.
Wheels/Tires
-No split rim, no beadlocks, and no protruding objects on rims.
-No studded tires
-Any tire & rim combination can be used other that.
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Post by Lola B Derby on Jun 3, 2019 20:40:52 GMT -5
OLD SCHOOL / SEMI STOCK RULES
A: Automobile Body Regulations
1. Passenger cars or station wagons only. No Chrysler Imperials 73 & older and no Imperial sub-frames. No hearses, checkered cabs, or limousines. Sedagons will be allowed.
2. All glass, windows, headlights, taillights, plastic, chrome, and loose debris must be removed before reaching the track. Rolling down windows is not permitted.
3. Top and bottom of sedan rear seats must be removed. Station wagon rear seats and decking must be removed. Vehicles must be emptied to rear floorboards.
4. Battery must be moved, securely fastened, and covered inside passenger compartment. Maximum of two automobile type batteries allowed.
5. Stock gas tank must be removed. A metal boat tank or homemade metal tank must be securely fastened and covered in rear seat area. No plastic tanks. Electric fuel pumps are permitted, but must have a shutoff switch within reach of driver. No more than 10 gallons of gas in tank.
6. Any type automotive radiator may be used and must remain in stock position. No reserve tanks. No radiator guards allowed.
7. Fenders may be trimmed for clearance. No bending or folding fender sheet metal. Each wheel well opening will be allowed five (5) 3/8” bolts to reattach inner and outer sheet metal.
8. All doors must be welded, chained, or wired shut. Door straps should not be larger than 1⁄4” thick and 4” wide. Top of doors may be beat down and welded, but no extra metal can be added.
9. Only allowable sheet metal rust repair will be in the driver and front passenger area. Rust in sheet metal may be patched with sheet metal of the same thickness. No other welding allowed on body.
10. Front windshield must have a bar or #9 wire loop from the roof to firewall for driver’s safety. Windshield bars must connect from firewall sheet metal to roof sheet metal only. A maximum of two (2) bars allowed and they may be no bigger than 2 1⁄2” square tube or 3” channel.
11. Body creasing allowed. No bolting or welding allowed.
12. You may run double stranded #9 wire from quarter panel to quarter panel in trunk to keep them from blowing apart. 1” hardware washer may be welded over hole to keep sheet metal from tearing.
B: Hoods, Trunks, and Body Bolts
1. Hoods may be fastened in one of two ways:
A. Hood may be fastened down in Eight (8) locations with double stranded #9 wire. 1” hardware washers may be welded around each hole to keep them from tearing. All wire must be sheet metal to sheet metal only.
B. Hood may be fastened down in six (6) locations with bolts. The front two (2) hood bolts may go through the frame at the factory core support bolt location. Core support may be bolted solid. If spacers are used, they may be no larger than 2”x2” material. The back four (4) bolts must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Hood washers should be no larger than 6” diameter and no thicker than 3/8”. Hood bolts may be no larger than 1”.
2. Hood must have two (2) holes at least 4” in diameter on each side of the carburetor. Hood must cover fan, or fan belt must be removed.
3. You are allowed four (4) double stranded #9 wires from the hood / core support to the front bumper.
4. Trunks may be fastened in one of two ways:
A: Trunks may be fastened in eight (8) places with double stranded #9 wire. You may weld 1” hardware washers around holes to keep sheet metal from tearing. You may also replace two (2) factory body mounts in the rear frame and run this all-thread up through the trunk lid. Trunk washers should be no larger than 6” diameter and no thicker than 3/8”.
B: Trunks may be welded in six (6) places with 2”x4” material.
5. Wagon tailgates may be fastened in Eight (8) locations with double stranded #9 wire and two pieces of ¾” all-threads. All-thread must be sheet metal to sheet metal.
6. Wagons may be made in sedagons. Sedagons roofs can be fastened down the same way as fastening a trunk lid. We must be able to see in rear seat area.
7. Factory body mount bolts may be replaced with all-thread up to 1” and washers no bigger than 4” diameter. Body mounts from the firewall to the rear hump must maintain the factory spacing between the top of frame and the body. The two (2) core support and the four (4) rear body bolts may be bolted solid without the factory spacing.
C: Cage
1. Cars are required to have a spreader bar behind the driver’s seat. A four-point cage is recommended. Two (2) door bars and two (2) spreader bars. The door bars must be no farther forward than the firewall and no farther back than the inner front seam of rear door. Door bars must be 6” above the top of frame. The dash bar must be straight across. You are allowed four (4) down tubes, two (2) per side. Down tubes must be located within measurements given for the door bars. Down tubes cannot go to body mount boxes, must be to side frame rails only.
2. Gas tank protectors are allowed. Protectors can be mounted to the cage or floor. 10” gap required between protector and speaker deck. If mounted to the cage, the protector must be a “halo” type bar only. If floor mounted, must be mounted to sheet metal only, not to the frame.
3. Halo bars are allowed. Halo bars can attach to the cage or run to the frame. If attached to the frame, bars must attach within the specified location for down tubes and they will count as a down tube. Halo bars must go straight up and over the car within the measurements given for the cage. You are allowed to attach halo to the roof with two (2) bolts no larger than 1”. Washers not to exceed 4”x4”.
D: Frame
1. No seam welding, pinning, filling, stuffing, or painting.
2. Six (6) 4" x 6" x 3/8" thick plates may be placed anywhere on a pre-ran car. Two (2) 4” x 6” x 3/8” thick plates may be placed on a fresh car. Plates must be flat, no angle iron.
3. The only frame pinging, creasing, or reshaping is allowed 12” in the center of each rear hump.
4. Rusted out frame sections may be fixed with material that has the same thickness as the factory frame section. Officials have the right to reject, so do not get excessive.
5. Humps may be chained with one (1) loop per side.
6. One (1) wire or chain may be run from frame rail to frame rail underneath the car behind the rear end.
7. Cold pitched cars only.
E: Bumpers
1. Any OEM bumper and shock canister may be bolted or welded to any model car. Homemade bumper brackets allowed with 2” material maximum. Amount of bolts or welds may not exceed typical stock installation. Non-factory mounting cannot extend farther than 6” behind the factory core support bolt hole. If your cars factory bumper-mounting bracket goes beyond this point, it must remain factory beyond this 6” mark. Your mounting is restricted to the fame rail only and cannot bridge across frame rails.
2. If hardnosed or shocks are inside the frame rail, we as officials may ask for an inspection hole to verify the 6” rule.
3. 1⁄4" spec bumpers allowed. Maximum homemade bumper dimensions are 6” x 6”. Homemade pointy bumpers must have same dimensions and contour as a Factory Chrysler “pointy”. Factory bumpers may be reinforced to extend their life. Outer chrome skin may be welded to inner skin of bumper.
4. Rear bumper brackets may be welded. Brackets must remain in factory location.
5. Maximum front bumper height is 22” from the ground to bottom of bumper. Minimum rear bumper height is 16” from the ground to bottom of bumper.
F: Suspension
1. Stiffness of suspension will be left to the driver’s discretion. A-arms may be welded solid with 2" strap and may only make contact with frame 2" beyond the a-arm.
2. Homemade tie rods and steering shafts are permitted.
3. A-arms and spindles may be changed, but must stay ford-to-ford, etc……. No homemade or aftermarket parts.
G: Rear End
1. Any automobile rear end can be used in any car. 8 lug truck or floater rear ends can be used in any car. Homemade spring perches or trailing arm brackets may be welded to rear end. Rear end spider gears may be welded solid. Rear end housings may be reinforced. No dually wheels allowed.
2. Any drive shaft or U-joint may be used. Welding of drive shaft is allowed.
3. You may tilt the rear end by shortening or lengthening the trailing arms. Trailing arms may be reinforced.
4. On 98 – 02 vics you have two (2) options for mounting the rear end.
A. You may use the ztr brackets or make your own brackets, but they must resemble 79 -97 factory ford mounting.
B. You can cut the package trey out of an older ford and weld it in the 98 – 02. No doubling of package trays. You can cut the lower trailing arm mounts off of an older ford and mount on a 98 – 02.
Whichever method used, it must be done to closely resemble factor ford mounting, and not in an excessive way to strengthen the frame of the car.
5. Factory size, number, and stagger will apply to leaf spring cars. Five (5) 2” clamps per side. Two 3/8” bolts per clamp. No welding of leafs.
H: Engines and Transmissions
1. Any engine or transmission may be used in any car, but must mount in a stock position.
2. Chained, welded, bolted, or homemade motor mounts will be permitted, but must be to engine cross member only and must meet approval of officials. No excessive mounting that may strengthen the frame.
3. Any type of header is allowed, but must be directed away from the driver’s compartment.
4. Transmission oil coolers and engine oil coolers are allowed. Must be secured, contained, and covered inside the car for driver’s protection.
5. Skid plates are allowed. Must be separate engine and transmission plates. No full-length plates and no bolting or welding to the frame.
6. Distributor protectors are not allowed.
7. Engine cradles are allowed, but must not go past the third spark plug from the front.
8. Transmission cross-member’s must mount in factory location. 2”x2” material maximum for cross-member.
I: Tires
1. 16” or small tires and wheels allowed. No split rims allowed. Wheel weights must be removed.
2. Double stuffed tires allowed.
3. Beadlocks allowed.
4. Valve stem protectors allowed.
5. No solid tires allowed.
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Post by Lola B Derby on Jun 3, 2019 20:41:02 GMT -5
MODIFIED RULES:
A: Automobile Body Regulations
1. Passenger cars or station wagons only. No Chrysler Imperials 73 & older and no Imperial sub-frames. No hearses, checkered cabs, or limousines. Cars may be re-stubbed, but must be ford-ford, Gm-Gm, Chrysler-Chrysler, and must be done in a factory manner. Sedagons will be allowed.
2. All glass, windows, headlights, taillights, plastic, chrome, and loose debris must be removed before reaching the track. Rolling down windows is not permitted.
3. Top and bottom of sedan rear seats must be removed. Station wagon rear seats and decking must be removed. Vehicles must be emptied to rear floorboards.
4. Battery must be moved, securely fastened, and covered inside passenger compartment. Maximum of two automobile type batteries allowed.
5. Stock gas tank must be removed. A metal boat tank or homemade metal tank must be securely fastened and covered in rear seat area. No plastic tanks. Electric fuel pumps are permitted, but must have a shutoff switch within reach of driver. No more than 10 gallons of gas in tank.
6. Any type automotive radiator may be used and must remain in stock position. No reserve tanks. Radiator guards allowed, but must be made with thin material and must not reinforce the overall structure of the car.
7. Fenders may be trimmed or rolled for clearance. Fenders may be welded or bolted together. If bolted use 3/8 inch or smaller bolts, washers, and nuts. Inner fender wells cannot be welded to frame.
8. All doors must be welded, chained, or wired shut. Door straps should not be larger than 1⁄4” thick and 4” wide. Top of doors may be beat down and welded, but no extra metal can be added.
9. No doubling of body panels allowed. Rust in sheet metal may be patched with sheet metal of the same thickness. Do no cut rust out, weld 2” beyond. Factory body seams only may be re-welded. You may crease and fold body panels, but do not weld.
10. No reinforcing of the firewall allowed.
11. Front windshield must have a bar or #9 wire loop from the roof to firewall for driver’s safety. Windshield bars must connect from firewall sheet metal to roof sheet metal only. A maximum of two (2) bars allowed and they may be no bigger than 2 1⁄2” square tube or 3” channel. Bars cannot connect to DP, cage, or halo bar.
12. Rear window bars may only attach to front 2” of trunk lid and may connect to halo bar.
13. Unlimited #9 wire may be used on body.
B: Hoods, Trunks, and Body Bolts
1. Hoods may be fastened down in six (6) locations, three (3) on each side of car. All-thread up to 1” may be used. The front two (2) hood bolts may go through the frame at the core support and must be outside of the radiator. The back four (4) bolts must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Hood washers should be no larger than 6” diameter and no thicker than 3/8”. You may substitute any of the bolts for angle iron back to back with a bolt through them. Angle iron cannot be more than 3/16” thick by 2” wide by 6” long. Unlimited #9 wire may be used on hood.
2. Hood must have two (2) holes at least 4” in diameter on each side of the carburetor. Hood must cover fan, or fan, or fan belt must be removed.
3. Trunk lids must be attached in one of two ways:
A. Fully welded with strap material 3” wide and 1⁄4” thick and 2 pieces of all-thread to the frame.
B. Six (6) pieces of all-thread up to 1”. Two (2) may go to frame and four (4) must be sheet metal to sheet metal.
We must be able to see inside trunk compartment and between lid and trunk floor!
4. Wagon tailgates are considered the same as trunk lids.
5. Wagons may be made in sedagons. Sedagons roofs can be fastened down with the same two methods for fastening a trunk lid. We must be able to see in wagon rear seat area and between roof and wagon floor!
6. No doubling of trunk lids.
7. Unlimited #9 wire may be used on trunks and tailgates.
8. Body mount bolts may be replaced with all-thread up to 1” and washers no bigger than 4” diameter. Pucks may be removed as long as topside of frame can be inspected. Two (2) additional body mount bolts may be added. All body mount bolts must have nut on top and bottom with no welds.
C: Cage
1. Cars are required to have a spreader bar behind the driver’s seat. A four-point cage is recommended. Cage may have four (4) down tubes, three (3) spreader bars, and double door bars per side. The door bars must be no farther forward than the firewall and no farther back than the front side of rear wheel well humps. Double door bars are allowed, but must be 4” above the top of frame. The dash bar must be straight across and maintain a 6” gap with the distributor protector. You are allowed four (4) down tubes, two (2) per side. Down tubes must be located within measurements given for the door bars. Down tubes cannot go to body mount boxes, must be to side frame rails only.
2. Gas tank protectors are allowed. Protectors can be mounted to the cage or the floor, not both. No gap required between protector and speaker deck. If mounted to the cage, the protector must be a “halo” type bar only. If floor mounted, must be mounted to sheet metal only, not to the frame.
3. Halo bars are allowed. Halo bars can attach to the cage or run to the frame. If attached to the frame, bars must attach within the specified location for down tubes and they will count as a down tube. Halo bars must go straight up and over the car within the measurements given for the cage.
D: Frame
1. All frame seams may be re-welded, both top and bottom side. Seam welds should be a single pass no more than 1⁄2” wide. No extra metal may be added. Do not plug weld factory frame holes. No frame pinning.
2. Four (4) 4" x 6" x 3/8" thick plates may be placed anywhere on a fresh car. Four (4) additional band-aide plates of the same size allowed on pre-ran cars. Bend must be visible. Plates must be flat stock, no angle iron allowed. The (4) fresh car and (4) band-aide plates cannot be welded to one another. Eight (8) plates total allowed on pre-ran cars.
DI cars will be allowed to cut down their front (a-arm forward) plates to form the four plates allowed on a fresh car. There must be a gap between these plates and you will not be allowed to bridge the gap back together with weld. You will be allowed (4) 4" x 6" x 3/8" band-aide plates anywhere else on visible bends.
3. A 22” long x 4” wide x 3/8” thick hump plate is allowed. Plate must be continuous and contour to shape of frame. Plate does not have to be centered, as long as one end contacts the center of the hump. Hump plates not allowed on leaf spring conversion cars.
4. Frame pinging, creasing, or reshaping allowed. No welding creased or reshaped areas together. Only welding allowed is on factory frame seams.
5. Rusted out frame sections may be fixed with material that has the same thickness as the factory frame section. Officials have the right to reject, so don’t get excessive.
6. Humps may be chained with one (1) loop per side.
7. One (1) wire or chain may be run from frame rail to frame rail underneath the car behind the rear end.
E: Bumpers
1. Any OEM bumper and shock canister may be bolted or welded to any model car. Homemade bumper brackets allowed with 4” material maximum. Amount of bolts or welds may not exceed typical stock installation. Must be a minimum 6” gap between rear of bumper shock and most forward part of a-arm. Your mounting is restricted to the frame rail only and cannot bridge across frame rails.
2. Bumpers may have one strap per side to help hold them on. Strap may be 3” wide x 1⁄4” thick and may extend 6” onto frame rail. No other straps or kickers allowed on bumpers. This applies to both front and back bumpers.
3. 1⁄4" spec bumpers allowed. Maximum homemade bumper dimensions are 6” x 6”. Homemade pointy bumpers must have same dimensions and contour as a Factory Chrysler “pointy”. Factory bumpers may be reinforced to extend their life. Outer chrome skin may be welded to inner skin of bumper.
4. Hard nosing allowed. You are allowed up to 24” of bumper to body welding with no fillers or plates. This is a total for both front and rear bumpers.
5. Maximum front bumper height is 22” from the ground to bottom of bumper. Minimum rear bumper height is 16” from the ground to bottom of bumper.
F: Suspension
1. Stiffness of suspension will be left to the driver’s discretion. A-arms may be welded solid with 2" strap and may only make contact with frame 2" beyond the a-arm.
2. Homemade tie rods and steering shafts are permitted.
G: Rear End
1. Any automobile rear end can be used in any car. 8 lug truck or floater rear ends can be used in any car. Homemade spring perches or trailing arm brackets may be welded to rear end. Rear end spider gears may be welded solid. Rear end housings may be reinforced. No dually wheels allowed.
2. Leaf spring conversions are allowed. Conversions must be done in a factory like manner. All leaf spring cars may have the leaf pack mounted under the frame rail. Under the frame rail mounts must be done with material no larger than 3” x 4” channel. No excessive metal can be used for frame reinforcements. Hump plates not allowed on leaf spring conversion cars.
3. Leaf spring conversion cars and factory leaf cars without hump plates are allowed 8 leaves per pack and must be OEM leafs. Springs must have a 2” stagger. Springs cannot be welded together. Four (4) spring clamps allowed per side.
4. Cars originally equipped with leaf springs, must have stock springs and hangers if running hump plates.
5. Any drive shaft or U-joint may be used. Welding of drive shaft is allowed.
6. You may tilt the rear end by shortening or lengthening the trailing arms. Trailing arms may be reinforced.
7. On 98 – 02 vics you have two (2) options for mounting the rear end.
1) You may use the ztr brackets or make your own brackets, but they must resemble 79 -97 factory ford mounting.
2) You can cut the package trey out of an older ford and weld it in the 98 – 02. No doubling of package trays. You can cut the lower trailing arm mounts off of an older ford and mount on a 98 – 02.
Whichever method used, it must be done to closely resemble factor ford mounting, and not in an excessive way to strengthen the frame of the car.
H: Engines and Transmissions
1. Any engine or transmission may be used in any car, but must mount in a stock position.
2. Chained, welded, bolted, or homemade motor mounts will be permitted, but must meet approval of officials. No excessive mounting that may strengthen the frame.
3. Any type of header is allowed, but must be directed away from the driver’s compartment.
4. Transmission oil coolers and engine oil coolers are allowed. Must be secured, contained, and covered inside the car for driver’s protection.
5. Skid plates are allowed. Must be separate engine and transmission plates. No full-length plates and no bolting or welding to the frame.
6. Distributor protectors are allowed. Must be attached to engine or transmission mounting bolts. Forward supports must be inside normally positioned headers and not extend past the water pump. Protectors cannot contact the cage at any time.
7. Extreme or full engine protectors are allowed as long as they are not reinforcing the frame.
8. You may beat flat the engine side of the firewall only. Do not bolt, weld, or reinforce the engine side of firewall in any way. Do not beat, paint, weld, or reinforce the driver’s side of the firewall in any way.
9. Transmission protectors are allowed. Protectors cannot be braced or attached to the cross member, frame, or cage in any way.
10. Factory aluminum engine cradles in 03 and newer cars may be changed. Must be replaced in a factory like manner. No excessive metal and no gussets that may strengthen the frame may be used.
11. Topside of engine cradles may be plated with 1/4" plate for engine block protection only. Plating allowed between original engine mounting locations only, not from rail to rail.
I: Tires
1. 16” or small tires and wheels allowed. No split rims allowed. Wheel weights must be removed.
2. Double stuffed tires allowed.
3. Valve stem protectors allowed.
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Post by Lola B Derby on Jun 3, 2019 20:41:15 GMT -5
PRO MODS:
1. Any American made automobile allowed.
2. If it looks like a factory production car from 5’, it will be inspected for safety only.
3. No Skelton Cage (no cage from roof to front bumper or rear bumper)
4. If you roll someone and stay in the gas, your stick will be broke.
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Post by Lola B Derby on Jun 3, 2019 20:41:25 GMT -5
save
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Post by Lola B Derby on Jun 3, 2019 20:41:36 GMT -5
save
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squig8s
Heat Winner
Just 4 Fun
Posts: 926
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Post by squig8s on Jul 2, 2019 9:16:39 GMT -5
Top
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squig8s
Heat Winner
Just 4 Fun
Posts: 926
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Post by squig8s on Aug 4, 2019 8:35:45 GMT -5
6 days
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Post by tofer97 on Aug 8, 2019 19:56:00 GMT -5
Inspection times?
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squig8s
Heat Winner
Just 4 Fun
Posts: 926
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Post by squig8s on Aug 9, 2019 0:11:18 GMT -5
Gates will be open at noon and close at 5:30. Any car after 5:30 will run Promods. Ever car will be inspected the same no matter who you are.
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