Post by epick on Feb 20, 2019 20:27:53 GMT -5
RESCUE PROMOTIONS PRESENTS THE
2019 MARTINSVILLE AG FAIR DEMOLITION DERBY
RULES & REGULATIONS
DEMOLITION DERBY WILL BE RUN BY THE MARTINSVILLE FIRE DEPARTMENT/RESCUE PROMOTIONS
JUNE 15, 2019 - GATES OPEN AT 3:00 P.M.
TRAVIS PHILLIPS 217-822-7014 or EJ PICKENS 217-276-4671 WITH ANY QUESTIONS
MODIFIED WINNER WILL GET $1200.00
COMPACT WINNER WILL GET $800.00
PROMOD WINNER WILL GET $1000.00
BONE STOCK WINNER WILL GET $1200.00
MIDSIZE CLASS WILL GET $1200.00
TRUCK WINNER WILL GET $1200.00
LAWNMOWER winner will get $150.00
3 PAYOUTS - 1st, 2nd, 3rd IN EACH CLASS
3 TROPHIES PER CLASS
POWER WHEELS PARTICIPANTS WILL GET TROPHIES
Any DRIVER under the influence of alcohol or drugs will be DISQUALIFIED AND REMOVED from PREMISES WITH ENTRY FEE FORFEITED. Alcoholic beverages WILL NOT BE ALLOWED ON FAIR GROUNDS OR INFIELD! All vehicles entering the infield will be searched! If you don’t want your vehicle to be searched, don’t park in the infield. Anyone caught with alcohol on the fairgrounds will be removed and no refunds will be made.
Each driver must fill out an entry form the day of the derby at the designated location. Each driver must supply his or her own vehicle and only ONE entry per class per driver.
Drivers must be 16 years or older to enter. Drivers under the age of 18 MUST have a parent or guardian sign a waiver. Driver will receive a pit pass upon registration for the derby on the day of the derby. If vehicle does not pass inspection, the owner will have to pay for a pit pass if he or she wants to remain in the pit area.
NO ONE is allowed on the track or stage except the drivers, officials, and emergency personnel.
Any driver or crew member disobeying the rules will cause his or her vehicle to be disqualified. Drivers are responsible for the actions of their crew.
Contestants of the derby cannot be superintendents or officials of the Rescue Promotions sponsored Demolition Derby.
The Martinsville Ag Fair will not be held responsible for any vehicles or personal property before during and after the show.
Infield and pit speeds will be enforced. No hot-rodding, donuts, or other unsafe driving will be tolerated.
Any altercations between drivers, crew, or officials will be grounds for disqualifications and possibly barred from future derbies.
If a driver exits their vehicle during a green flag for any reason other than fire or injury he or she will be disqualified.
Rescue Promotions has the right to accept or reject any or all entries.
GENERAL RULES
1.THESE RULES ARE A GUIDELINE THAT SPECIFIES WHAT WE WILL ALLOW, IT DOES NOT SPECIFY WHAT WE WILL NOT ALLOW. IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION, CALL BEFORE YOU DO IT. DO NOT COME UP TO US AT THE DERBY AND ASK US TO SHOW YOU IN THE RULES WHERE IT STATES THAT BECAUSE IT DOESN’T. CALL FIRST!!!
2. If your under 18, you must have a signed consent form from a parent/guardian.
3. Due to fair ordinance, there is NO ALCOHOL allowed on the fairgrounds. Coolers will be inspected! You WILL forfeit any alcohol found and will lose it! No firearms, or weapons of any kind will be allowed.
4. A DOT approved helmet must be worn while on the track. Eye protection is required. LONG SLEEVE SHIRT MUST BE WORN.
5. Car must have working seat belts for the driver and must be worn during the heat.
6. If you are using a torch you must have a fire extinguisher with you.
7. NO HIT AND HOLD (no gangbanging) and NO sandbagging! If you don’t know what this is you better ask.
8. You must make contact within 60 seconds.
9. You only get one warning for a driver door hit, second time you disqualified! Drivers door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by officials to be careless or intentional you will be disqualified. If a driver uses the drivers door to block they will be disqualified.
10. One fire is allowed in the engine compartment, second fire you are disqualified. One fire in passenger compartment and you are disqualified. If door opens you will be disqualified. You can fix the door and return to the consolation heat.
11. NO Fighting will be tolerated and may result if MAF ejection or arrest.
12. No refunds if caught cheating.
13. Drivers will be assigned heats.
14. Please take all scrap with you! All items (including vehicles) left on the fair grounds the next day will become property of the Martinsville Fair.
15. No one is allowed on the track or stage except officials, emergency and track workers.
16. All drivers must attend the driver's meeting. Any issues protest will be brought up at this time.
17. Cars MUST be painted tastefully! No profanity or offensive material allowed on the car, including numbers!!! This is a family show!
18. $200 TO PROTEST A CAR. Only other drivers from that particular class are able to protest a car. The driver must have the cash in hand in order to protest. At the time of protest, both the protested car and the car owned by the protester will be reinspected. The only people that may be present during the reinspection of the protested car is the inspection crew, the driver of the protested car, and the protester. No other people may be within 50’ of the reinspection. If the car passes the inpection, the “protested” driver will receive the $200. However, if anything illegal is found, the $200 goes back to the protester.
19. All drivers must keep their hands inside the car at all times! If we see you driving with your hand on your door we will stop the race once, next time you’re out. We want everyone to leave with all the body parts they came with!
20. All glass, plastic, chrome, wheel weights, and loose debris must be removed from the car. All hitches must be removed. The stock gas tank must be removed.
21. No concrete anywhere on the car.
22. No hearses, limousines, x-frames or convertible frames are not allowed in other model cars. Allowable frame swaps: Chrysler shocker to y-frame swaps or opposite, Cadillac front clips under Cadillacs or pre-ran GM sedans only, Imperial sub-frames to other compatible Chryslers only.
23. Front doors should be painted white to help us cut down on door hits. If your door is not white, don’t whine if we don’t see a door hit on your car.
24. Horn must be removed or not used during the heat! Subject to disqualification if used.
25. You will be allowed 2 trips to the inspection line. Driver only must bring car to inspection unless pre-approved by head official.
26. SAFETY FIRST: No unsafe practices like protruding all thread, radiator drain hoses pointed at people, and teeth cut into the bumpers, etc. If a bumper or something comes loose during the race and appears to be a safety concern, we reserve the right to act and correct it.
27. In addition to the doors, the car may have the number on a roof sign - minimum of 24” tall.
28. ENGINE/TRANSMISSION MUST BE ISOLATED FROM THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT WITH STEEL, FIRE BLANKET, RUBBER, OR APPROVED FIRE RESISTANT MATERIAL IF FIREWALL/FLOORBOARDS ARE MODIFIED. GAS TANK AND BATTERY MUST BE COVERED AS WELL.
29. Once again, OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL, so if unsure if you can do something, please call ahead.
30. If putting patches on frame after heats, consult an Official before you put any band-aid on your car. Remember, only 6 total repairs. ASK BEFORE YOU DO IT!!
31. We strongly suggest that you have roll over protection AND driver compartment cage for safety.
MODIFIED RULES
CAGE **REQUIRED** Spreader bar must be at least channel, square tubing, or pipe, no thin wall material! Spreader bar must not be more than 8” behind the rear seat. Car must have REQUIRED door protection for driver. Minimum Recommended Cage– four point cage with one bar close to the firewall and another not more than 8” behind the driver seat. Front cage bar (dash bar) must be straight across front of car and maintain the 6” gap to the distributor protector. You are allowed two down bars per side that may attach to the frame in one of two ways. You may use 1-1” bolt or all-thread through a standard size body mount plate and weld your down bar to the plate, no fillers or you may weld the down bar directly to the top of the frame using no fillers. These down bars must be attached at the front no further forward than the front door seam, rear down bar within the 12” behind the seat measurement. Front down bars must mount to side rail only, not the front clip. There may also be 1 rollover loop that can be attached to the bar behind the seat and go straight up over the exterior side of the roof. No portion of the cage can be further past 12” behind the seat. Seat must mount within 4“ of the factory bolts. Cage may have 4 down legs, 2 spreader bars and 2 door bars. DOUBLE DOOR BARS ALLOWED BUT MUST BE A MINIMUM OF 4” ABOVE THE FLOOR PAN. No other kickers / support bars that reinforce the car will be allowed.
1. Battery must be moved inside the passenger compartment and tightly fastened with a cover. You may use 1 automotive battery or 1 large marine battery.
2. Gas Tank must be mounted inside the passenger compartment, tightly secured, and covered. Plastic tanks must be in a solid metal containment box and covered or you will not be allowed to participate. No exceptions. (We strongly recommend metal tanks!). Absolutely NO stock fuel lines. Secure new fuel line properly inside of the driver’s compartment, not underneath car. Keep away from exhaust. Gas tank protectors must be mounted to the cage or the floor pan, not both and side bars must be at least 12” from the side sheet metal. Gas tank protector, if on cage must be a "halo" type bar only, no gap required between protector and cage if floor mounted and not connected to sheet metal in any way (bolted or welded). Electric fuel pumps must be double clamped and covered. NO electronic fuel pumps without a fuel cutoff switch.
3. Battery and Gas Tank must be in separate areas and covered (not next to each other) OR in separate containment boxes.
4. Brakes must be working – be prepared to demonstrate. Violators will not be allowed to participate if this occurs before or during the events.
5. No extra engine cooling devices. We will allow 1 transmission cooler. Transmission coolers must be near floor level or contained. Steel or high pressure lines only.
6. Radiators must remain in stock position with no reinforcement. Radiator guards must mount to radiator only. Engines must be mounted with the #1 spark plug being lined up with the ball joint and/or strut, no farther back! Engine mounting chains may be bolted or welded but only to engine cradle, not the side rail.
7. Wire is to be #9 wire, unlimited amount (Use as much as you want because anyone can get it)
8. Hood MUST be open at inspection– NO EXCEPTIONS! If you bring it wired shut, we WILL cut it open to inspect. Hood must be brought to the inspection line if not attached to car. You MAY use 6 pcs. of 1" all-thread but nuts must have handle for easy removal. The front two hood bolts can go through frame by the core support. The other four must be sheet metal to sheet metal. You may use 2” angle x 4” long in 6 spots for bolting hood and fender together as an option to running all thread to the core support. No other hood support or angle “handles” allowed on the hood. You must remove hood springs or cylinders before running. You may have 6 hold-downs on hood and trunk. Unlimited wire. Hood must cover fan blade or fan taken off, no exceptions. HOOD MUST FIT BETWEEN THE FENDERS LIKE FACTORY. Hood MUST remain in stock position. (Not shifted and bent down to the bumper to protect the radiator.) Holes must be cut in hood for fire extinguishment. (If there are not header holes, a special hole must be cut.)
9. Doors – All doors can be welded shut. Weld CAN be solid on ALL doors. You may also skip weld, chain, or wire them shut as long as it is SECURE. Top of doors may be pinched and welded with no fillers. Outside seams allowed plate up to 4” wide.
10. Roof - In addition to the doors, the car must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the car a minimum of 24” tall. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the car!!! This is a family show!
11. Trunk – We MUST be able to see inside of trunk compartment. You must have at least a 4” diameter hole in the lid. Trunk lids can be attached 1 of 3 ways:
a.) full weld maximum 3" width material and 1/4” thick and 2 pieces of all-thread to the frame
b.) 6 pieces of up to 1” all-thread 2 to frame, 4 to sheet metal with no weld
c.) Unlimited #9 wire (wire allowed with all options)
Wagon tailgates are considered same as a trunk lid. You may NOT attach the trunk lid to the floor of the trunk. You cannot see under the lid when this is done. The lid must be mounted or removed. The rear deck must be removed on station wagons! Rear hatch cylinders must be removed when applicable. Rear window bar can only attach 2” onto trunk lid, any further and you will cut. Window bar not allowed on wagons.
12. Body Mounts may be taken out or replaced with stacked washers and all thread or bolts NO bigger than 1”. Washers used must not be bigger than 4”x 4” and must be free floating, must have spacing, gap must be maintained to fully inspect topside of frame - not welded to the body or frame. To make it easier, instead of washers, you may leave the original puck, replace the bolts, and torque them down to smash the puck some as long as a space is maintained. The front body mounts may be replaced with all thread that also holds the hood down, but we require that you weld a handle to the hood nuts so we can easily open it without a wrench. You may add (2) body mounts at the driver’s location of choice. Extra body mounts must be welded to or pass through frame. All other body mounts must remain in their stock position unless rust out prevents this and then must be pre-approved. Angle iron is allowed in this location only for ease of use to run wire to. Must be 4”x 4” max. You also may weld a 3”x 3” washer on top of each body mount hole, rusted or not. Factory washer or cut plate allowed no thicker than ¼”. All thread or bolts only allowed to have 4” past each nut at the frame or body level whichever it is securing.
13. Bumpers: You can use ANY factory bumper or bumper shock on ANY model car. 2 bumper shocks max per fame rail, one front and one rear only per side. There must be a minimum 6" gap between bumper shocks and a-arms. You may manufacture your own bumper mounts within these limits (4” max material). If you make a "homemade pointy" you have to have it where it is the same dimensions as factory Chrysler pointy. We will have a template made from a fresh bumper. Anything that doesn't match factory dimensions will have to be cut. No small wedges allowed one's that looks like a wood splitting wedge. You are allowed 6” of the frame rail to mount your bumper with homemade components. Maximum homemade bumper height 6”. 6” maximum bumper material, 4” max material on bumper shocks, cannot be stacked. Your mounting is restricted to the rail only and can't bridge across frame rails. In addition to the weld &/or bolts, we also recommend either wiring or chaining the bumper to the frame. You may use a strap to help hold bumper on. It is to be no thicker than 1/4” and no wider than 3” and should not extend past 6” on top of the frame. Bumper strap to top or bottom of frame not both. No kickers from corner of bumper to frame. You are allowed to run a 1/4" spec bumper with a factory chrome skin covering it. Can be up to 1/4" box tubing but must appear like a bumper! Minor “bumper only” reinforcement allowed to extend the life, but must be on the bumper only. No rear bumper brackets on the front of cars. Hard nosing allowed. You are allowed up to 24" of bumper to body welding with no fillers or plates. That is total for front and rear bumpers. Maximum front bumper height is 22” from the ground to the BOTTOM of the bumper. Minimum back bumper height is 16” from the ground to the BOTTOM of the bumper.
14. Frames: There must not be any frame plating, filling, stuffing, or concrete. You may weld a PLATE band-aid NO BIGGER than 4” x 6” x ¼” to a crack, break, or severe bend in the frame of a pre-ran car or a rusted through section of a fresh car. MUST be able to see the crack or bend for verification. Band-aid must be flat plate, NO angle iron, no bending plate to make angle. Band-aids must not be welded to other band-aids. NO MORE than 4 band-aids on the frame (total) to repair a crack or bend, so if your frame has more damage than that, some cracks will need to let nature take its course! Do not call to see if you can put on a 5th, because you can’t. You may seam weld the frame the entire length. Seam welds should be no more than 1/2" wide. If a portion of the frame needs replaced, you may do so after checking with the head inspector (DON’T get excessive). NO frame pinning. There cannot be any undercoating, paint, or other material on the frame. No grind marks on frame unless approved. A 22” hump plate is allowed but must be one continuous plate. Hump plate can be kicked forward, backward, or centered as long as it contacts the center of the hump. ¼” thick on the outside only and must be contoured to the frame. Can be no more than 4” tall.
15. No Body Plates except to hold the spreader bars in place or to protect driver, but not to exceed 6” past the door seam. Inside of doors can be welded with no fillers. You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal of same thickness only! Do not cut rust out-weld 2” beyond rust. You may re-weld factory body seams, but do NOT add any steel other than the weld bead. No weld stacking or filler on anybody or frame bead (except the doors.) No body panel doubling!
16. Skid Plates are allowed but must remain separate for your oil and transmission. No full length skid plates and no bolting & welding it to the frame.
17. Distributor Protectors allowed, but must not touch the cage anywhere. Sheet metal only. 6” gap between protector and cage. There can be nothing between, above or below the distributor protector and the dash bar besides the firewall.
18. Tires: No solid Tires (Hyster tires, etc.) Tires MUST contain some air.
19. Car must have a pipe, wire, or plate from the cowl to the roof to prevent the hood from entering car. You may add one to the front and side windows. Sheetmetal to sheetmetal mounting only. Nothing to cage or rollover bar. 2 pieces in each window opening max. Max material is 4 x 1/4. All window braces must be outboard of the distributor protector. This is for your safety, not to reinforce your car!
20. Springs: Stock Springs must remain on the car. 4 clamps allowed on each leaf spring, no bigger than 2x4x3/8”. You cannot weld the leafs together! Springs must fit inside 3/8” wrench opening. You can wire or bolt the coils to the rear end and weld the leaf brackets to the car. On coil spring cars you may put taller springs in to get height "don't get extreme" but you cannot weld any other material to them or in place of springs. 98-02s- you have 1 of 2 options. 1) you may use the ztr brackets or make your own brackets but must resemble the way it would mount in a 79-97 ford 2) you can cut the package trey out of a older ford and weld in the 98-02 but no doubling of package treys and may cut the brackets off a older ford and re-weld on 98-02 to mount bottom trailing arms.
21. Rear-ends can be of car origin or can be switched out to 8-lug single wheel rear-end. No welding leafs directly to frame on any leaf modification. The leafs of any car must have arch and no homemade flat stacks. Leafs must also have a 2 inch stager.
22. You may run 1 chain around each side of the rear end and through the floorboard.
23. Steering System: You may alter your steering column to prevent loss and strengthen your tie rods as long as they function as stock.
24. NO added reinforcement from the core support to the firewall allowed. NO fender or core support reinforcement such as flat stock, angle iron, etc.
25. 03 AND NEWER FORD RULES: all crush zones must remain open and visible. Factory cradle from Ford car only mounted within 2” of factory position. Mandatory ¾” hole at firewall to fully inspect. Bolt in cradle allowed to same dimensions as factory 02 & older crown vic cradles.
26. Solid Suspension is allowed. You are allowed 2 pieces of strap or similar material no more than 2” wide and can't be welded more than 2” on frame 2 spots on each a-arm per side. A-arms can't be welded solid. Must attach directly below or above a-arm not kicked forward or backward to reinforce frame.
27. We strongly suggest that you have roll over protection for Safety!!!
28. LEAF CONVERSIONS ARE ALLOWED
COMPACTS
Body
1. Remove all glass.
2. Cylinders must be removed on hood and hatch if applicable.
3. Secure hatchbacks or trunks with wire, chain, or welding. Remove rear deck lids on station wagons and hatchbacks if not steel (meaning fiberglass material)
4. Wire is to be #9 wire, unlimited amount (Use as much as you want because anyone can get it)
5. You may replace body mounts with all thread or bolts no bigger than 1”.
6. Car must have a pipe, wire, or plate from the cowl to the roof to prevent the hood from entering car. You may add one to the front & side windows. Sheetmetal to sheetmetal mounting only. Nothing to cage or rollover bar. 2 pieces in each window opening max. Max. Material is 4x1/4. This is for your safety, not to reinforce your car!
7. You may use wire, bolts, or all thread no bigger than 1" to secure hood. (all-thread nuts need a handle to open hood)
8. Front doors should be painted white to help us cut down on door hits. If your door is not white – don’t whine if we don’t see a door hit on your car.
9. Roof - In addition to the doors, the car must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the car a minimum of 24” tall. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the car!!! This is a family show!
10. 4 4x6 plates ¼ in material max on car! 22 in hump plates 1 per side of car!
Drive Train
1. Maximum original wheelbase dimension is 105” center wheel to center wheel! A car may not run the race with a longer original factory wheelbase! No shortening of Frame to make it 105”.
2. Engine must be 4 or 6 cylinders only. (No V8’s)
3. NO 4x4 compact cars unless one driveshaft has been removed disabling that option.
4. No 8-lug rear-ends/ No floater rear-ends allowed.
Bumper
1. Bumper height must be less than 24 in to botton, normal heights in front and the back not dropped to the ground, at the decision of the official (Safety 1st)
2. You can use ANY factory bumper or bumper shock on ANY model car. 2 bumper shocks max per fame rail, one front and one rear only per side. There must be a minimum 6" gap between bumper shocks and a-arms/strut. You may manufacture your own bumper mounts within these limits (4” max material). If you make a "homemade pointy" you have to have 24 in across at rear no more than 8 in out and 2 in flat spot on tip!!!!. No small wedges allowed one's that looks like a wood splitting wedge. You are allowed 6” of the frame rail to mount your bumper with homemade components. Maximum homemade bumper height 6”. 6” maximum bumper material, 4” max material on bumper shocks, cannot be stacked. Your mounting is restricted to the rail only and can't bridge across frame rails. In addition to the weld &/or bolts, we also recommend either wiring or chaining the bumper to the frame. You may use a strap to help hold bumper on. It is to be no thicker than 1/4” and no wider than 3” and should not extend past 6” on top of the frame. Bumper strap to top or bottom of frame not both. No kickers from corner of bumper to frame. You are allowed to run a 1/4" spec bumper with a factory chrome skin covering it. Can be up to ¼” box tubing but must appear like a bumper! Minor “bumper only” reinforcement allowed to extend the life, but must be on the bumper only. No rear bumper brackets on the front of cars. Hard nosing allowed. You are allowed up to 24" of bumper to body welding with no fillers or plates. That is total for front and rear bumpers.
Driver Compartment
1. Remove stock gas tanks and put one in the back floor board, tightly secure, and cover. Gas Tank must be mounted inside the passenger compartment, tightly secured, and covered. Plastic tanks must be in a solid metal containment box & covered or you will not be allowed to participate, no exceptions. (We strongly recommend metal tanks!). Absolutely NO stock fuel lines. Secure new fuel line properly inside of the driver’s compartment, not underneath car. Keep away from exhaust. Gas tank protectors must be mounted to the cage or the floor pan, not both. Side bars must be at least 12” from the side sheet metal. Gas tank protector if on cage must be a "halo" type bar only, no gap required between protector and cage if floor mounted and not connected to sheet metal in any way (bolted or welded). Electric fuel pumps must be double clamped and covered. NO electronic fuel pumps without a full cutoff switch.
2. Move battery to inside the passenger compartment, tightly secure it, and cover it up.
3. MUST have a spreader bar behind the seat & must have driver door protection. Up to a 4” diameter Bar can be used
4. Cage must be at least a 4 point cage
5. No kickers or angled down tubes allowed
6. The cage must be contained inside the car
7. Spreader bar must be at least channel, square tubing, or pipe, no thin wall material! Spreader bar must be behind seat.
8. You may weld, wire, or chain doors shut.
9. UNLIMITED # 9 wire use.
11. If inspection holes are not adequate in frame rails, we will drill a 3/4” hole approx 4” ahead of the strut on outside of the frame.
Tires: No solid Tires (Hyster tires, etc.) Tires MUST contain some air.
Please review the normal Modified car rules and apply all of those rules THAT CAN BE APPLIED.
We strongly suggest that you have roll over protection for Safety!!!
MIDSIZE CLASS/MINIVANS/MINI TRUCKS
1. NO 4X4s
2. MIDSIZE CLASS rules are the same as the compact rules with the exceptions of: Must be over 105" wheelbase.110 max car wheel base
3. Mini trucks may add 2 bolts or straps to the bed .
PRO MODS
1. Any year, make, or model car. No hearses or 4 X 4’s.
2. Frame kickers are allowed
3. No skinned cars. No concrete or solid stock inside frames.
4. All caged components must remain inside the driver’s compartment of the car.
5. You are allowed 100” of plate on each half of the car.
6. It is a Pro-Mod, not a Powder Puff. We expect you to drive it as such.
BONE STOCK
RULES AND REGULATIONS - ALL RULES WILL BE STRICTLY ENFORCED
TYPE OF CAR
1. Any American made, hardtop automobile or station wagon is allowed.
PREPARATION OF CAR
(Remove following before arriving at fairgrounds or track.)
1. All glass including windshield, side windows, rear window, head and tail lights, will be removed before entering fairgrounds. Rolling windows down is not permitted!!
2. Rear seat of sedan must be removed, top and bottom. On station wagons all seats and decking must be removed. Station wagons must be emptied to the floorboards.
3. Cars must have a seatbelt and working brakes . MANDATORY
4. Two batteries any size, are allowed. If battery is to be moved from original position, it must be placed on floorboard of driver's compartment, and securely fastened and covered.
5. MANDATORY - Front windshield must have a loop of #9 wire from roof to firewall for safety. 2 loops of #9 wire only in one (1) spot.
6. Trailer hitches: Class A or frame mounted must be totally removed. Class B or bumper mounted trailer ball stub must be cut off.
7. Drivers door must be painted white, both front doors if a passenger is riding.
GAS TANKS AND FUEL PUMPS
1. Stock gas tank MUST be removed from original position and mounted in the rear seat area and secured. A marine tank or fuel cell is strongly recommended. All lines and fittings must be leak proof and meet approval of track officials. Electric fuel pumps are allowed, but must have a shut-off switch within reach of the driver. Tanks must be covered before entering the track.
2.All lines must be run inside the car. All lines should be double clamped.
3. No alcohol - Gasoline Only
RADIATOR AND CORE SUPPORT
1. Radiator must be in stock position . Any automotive type radiator can be used.
2. Radiator must be OEM automotive radiator. No Protectors.
3. No reserve tanks and no added cooling capacity.
4. No welding or added metal to the core support.
SUSPENSION
1. Suspension must be original factory suspension for that car. Must have bounce.
2. No suspension modifications allowed. Must remain stock.
Body
1. Body must remain completely stock. No sedagons.
2. No body seam welding -No doubling of panels -hammer and crease all you want, but No added metal - No reinforcing of firewall and firewall must cover all holes.
3. Body bolts at the core support and all at the very rear of the car may be replaced with up to and no larger than (1) one inch bolts or all thread with washers no bigger than (4) four inches in diameter and no thicker than 1/4 inch. These are too be used to hold down your hood and trunk lid. Cannot be sleeved.
4. NO OTHER BODY BOLTS CAN BE CHANGED EXCEPT THESE (4) FOUR.
5. Fenders may not be bolted together.
6. Doors may be chained, wired, or welded. Welding the doors is the only welding allowed on the car body. When welding doors, it must be done in a (6) six inch weld - skip (6) six inch pattern.
7. Anything can be removed**** Nothing can be added**** except for rules (3) three and (6) six.
HOODS AND TRUNKS
1. Hoods must have (2) two holes, at least (4) four inches in diameter on each side of the carburetor. Not directly on top of the carburetor. If the hood is removed, either the fan or fan belt must be removed.
2. Hoods must be open upon request during inspection. If we cannot see, we will cut. Hoods must come to the inspection area with vehicle.
3. Hoods and trunk lid must remain on factory hinges. Hood and truck lid can be wired or chained in (4) four spots each side. Trunk lid can be tucked, but not welded.
4. Rear fenders can be rolled in.
5. No welding or added metal on the hood or trunk.
6. Relocation of the rear speaker deck is not allowed. Must remain is stock position. Cannot be removed.
SAFETY CAGES
1. All cars should have a safety cage. A rollover bar is strongly recommended.
2. You should have a (4) point cage. The cage can be welded to sheet metal only.You can have up to (4) four down posts, (2) two per side. You should have a dash bar, a cross bar behind the seat and (2) two door cross bars. The door bars cannot be lass than (12) twelve inches off of the floor. Nothing can be ran between the rear wheel humps or welded to the humps. No kickers to the frame humps - front or back. All down post post must be straight. NO ANGLES
3.Rear Seat bar must be within (8) Eight inches of the back of front seat.
4. Dash bar cannot be more than (6) six inches in front of door seam. Dash bar cannot be in front of front door post.
5. Cage can be made out of (3) three inch pipe or (3) three inch square tubing, MAX
6. All down tubes must be at or behind the dash bar, straight up and down. Welded to sheet metal only.
7. All door bars must stop at the dash bar. Cannot extend to the firewall.
GAS TANK PROTECTOR
1. Protector is allowed for safety. It must be mounted to the rear seat bar. Must be free floating and no wider than (24) twenty four inches. It cannot be angled and cannot extend past the center of the of the rear doors.
FRAMES - STOCK - STOCK - STOCK
1. Must remain stock - no welding
2. No pitching, tilting, or tipping of frames.
3. No hump plates and no leaf conversions.
4. Steering columns must remain stock from gearbox forward.
5. PRE-RUN CARS CAN HAVE 2, 2X4" PLATES NO THICKER THAN THE FRAME IT MUST PATCH A BEND OR A RIP.
BUMPERS
1. Any stock car bumper on any car. No built bumpers and no loaded stock bumpers
2. Bumpers may be welded on. You can weld the skin to the support, but may not add metal! You are allowed 14 inches of bumper shock on each side. Only two pieces...one for each side, any material, no bigger than 2.5 inches by 2.5 inches and no longer than 14 inches. Pipe, angle iron, strap steel, square tube, or box tubing are all acceptable as long as it isn't bigger than stated. Bumper shock must be at least 4 inches from the front A frame mount. Please take the time to get the bumper fastened to the car well. Bumpers may be chained, but only to the frame. Chain may be welded on at each end. We don't want to pick bumpers up off the track. This is still a stock class, if its more than the rules allow, be prepared to cut or run mod.
3. No shortening of frame to mount bumper!!!! Must be stock length.
ENGINES AND TRANSMISSION
1. Any stock engine or transmission may be used in any car, but must be mounted within(5) five inches of original motor. Floor shifters are allowed.
2. No performance parts or engines allowed; stock only. The only acceptable upgrades are timing chain, headers, basic tune-up etc. No high performance rebuilds or pro-mod style engines are allowed in Bonestock cars.
3. Officials have the right to deny any car participating if the motor is deemed illegal. If at the end of the derby the official deems the motor illegal, the driver will be disqualified and the placings moved up. MODIFIED MOTORS DON'T BELONG IN THIS CLASS,
4. NO ALCOHOL - GASOLINE ONLY
5. Chained, welded or homemade motor mounts will be permitted, but must meet approval of officials.
6. Any type of header is allowed, but must be directed away from driver compartment.
7. Transmission oil coolers and engine oil coolers are permitted. Must be secure and contained and covered inside the car, for drivers protection.
8. No pulley protectors - No skid plates - No distributor protectors - No engine or transmission protectors -
9. LOWER ENGINE CRADLES ARE ALLOWED. Can only be attached at factory mount location
REAR END
1. Any stock OEM factory automobile rear end can be used in any car. No aftermarket rear ends allowed. No floater. No reinforcement to rear end allowed.
2. On models originally equipped with leaf springs, stock leaf springs and hangers MUST be used. Leaf packs on all cars MUST be OEM stock.
3. Rear end spider gears may be welded solid.
4. You may have (5) five spring clamps per spring. You pick if you want them in front of or behind axle, or split them between front and back.
Tires
1. ANY AIR FILLED TIRE. Hyster tires and forklift tires are allowed as long as the aren't solid and are on a stock automobile wheel.
2. No double stuffed tires, valve stem protectors or bead locks allowed.
*****Attention*****
The only welding allowed will be the bumper, cage, doors, motor mounts, and spider gears and 2, 2x4" plates on preruns no thicker metal than the frame. These are outlined above.
If it doesn't say you can do it, Don't assume you can. Call first or don't do it!!!
No added metal, unless specified above.
Everybody needs to read and re-read these rules. If you are found to be too built for these rules you will given (3) three options.
A. Cut and remove illegal parts.
B. Load on trailer and go home.
C. Run in the modified derby.
TRUCKS
1. Any 2-wheel drive pickup, SUV ½ ton to 1 ton trucks, must be an OEM PICKUP TRUCK frame. No industrial style, straight C channel style frames will be allowed, and no dually wheels will be allowed. 4 x 4 Trucks or SUVs are allowed, however, one driveshaft must be removed so that the 4 wheel drive option is disabled.
2. Protectors - Distributor protectors allowed, NO radiator guards allowed (other than stock A.C. condenser), NO tranny protectors, or tranny case modifications. Also, NO rear-end bracing!!!
3. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the truck!!! This is a family show!
Frame
1. All seams can be welded, single-pass only. No pinning, plating, filling, stuffing or painting; other than what is allowed in our rules. must be an OEM PICKUP TRUCK frame. No industrial style, straight C channel style frames will be allowed
Drivetrain
1. Any motor or transmission in any vehicle.
2. Basic engine cradles only with pulley protector allowed, sway bar must be cut between frame to run pulley protector.
3. Skid plates allowed but can’t extend more than ½” from the pan they are protecting.
4. Solid lower engine mounts are allowed.
5. No transmission case modifications.
6. Slider shafts are allowed.
7. No rear-ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup. If running a dually rear-end, you may only run one wheel per side. No rear-end bracing.
Suspension
1. Front suspensions may be converted from coil spring to leaf spring design. Keep the leaf springs mounts minimal. Do not use them to strengthen the frame.
2. Tie-rods can be welded up but no additional metal can be added
3. You may add 2 clamps in front of the axle and 3 behind the axle. Max of 2 bolts per clamp. Bolts can’t be bigger than 3/8” and clamps can only be 2” wide. No duct tape or welding on the springs.
4. Aftermarket steering shafts are allowed
5. Solid front suspensions are allowed but do not use this to strengthen the frame or you will need to cut it in order to run.
Body
1. Remove all glass.
2. All body bolts can be replaced and bolted solid with no bolts bigger than 1” You may use 1” all-thread in the core support and run it up through the hood. 4” x 4” maximum body mount washer size
3. Trucks should remain looking like trucks. Bedside must remain in the stock position. You may fold bedsides over from the wheel wells back and tailgate may be folded over. If you choose to do so, you may use 2 pieces of all thread on the frame behind the wheel wells to hold bedsides down or may be attached to bed floor with #9 wire. Must be a gap to see inside. Suburbans may be ‘sedagoned’. If you choose to “tuck” a suburban or other long roof vehicle, you may only attach the roof to quarter panels with #9 wire. You may not weld the roof down. You must have a hole measuring 12 x 12 inches in the roof for inspection.
4. You may weld, wire, or chain doors shut. The tailgate may be wired, bolted, or welded shut. The tailgate may be lowered half the height of the tailgate. Cab may be welded to bed (please do).
5. In addition to the 2 pieces of all-thread in the core support, you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4” x 4”. It must be body to body only.
6. No more than 10-3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
7. Wire is to be #9 wire, unlimited amount (Use as much as you want because anyone can get it)
8. Truck must have a pipe, wire, or plate from the cowl to the roof to prevent the hood from entering Truck. You may add one to the front & side windows. 2 pieces in each window opening max. Max. Material is 4x3/8”. This is for your safety, not to reinforce your truck! Driver’s Safety comes first.
9. NO REINFORCEMENT anywhere on the truck.
10. Five 3/8” bolts per wheel well. Hardware washers only.
11. If weight is added to the bed, it must be safe and non-reinforcing at the inspector’s discretion.
12. Roof - In addition to the doors, the truck must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the truck a minimum of 24” tall. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the truck!!! This is a family show!
13. PRE-RAN TRUCKS may weld a plate/band-aid no bigger than 4”x 6” x 3/8” up to four (4) on a visible bend. There must be at least a 1-inch gap between plates. Must be flat plate. No angle iron, no bending plate to make angle or no C-channel may be used. If rear of truck is wedged, up to discretion of inspection crew to have you modify it for safety purposes.
Driver Compartment
1. Move battery to inside the cab, tightly secure it, and cover it up. You may use 2 automotive batteries or 1 large marine battery.
2. MUST have a spreader bar behind the seat & must have driver door protection. Up to a 4” diameter Bar can be used
3. CAGE *REQUIRED* Spreader bar must be at least channel, square tubing, or pipe, NO thin wall material! Truck must have REQUIRED door protection for driver. Minimum required 4 point cage. Front cage bar (dash bar) must be straight across front of truck and maintain the 6” gap to the distributor protector. You are allowed two down bars per side that may attach to the frame. Cage must go no further back than the front edge of the rear wheel humps. Down legs in rear must go to flat part of frame only. There may also be 1 rollover loop that can be attached to the bar behind the seat and go straight up over the exterior side of the roof. Cage may have 4 down legs, 3 spreader bars and 2 door bars.
4. No kickers or angled down tubes allowed
5. Spreader bar must be at least channel, square tubing, or pipe, no thin wall material! Spreader bar must be behind seat. 3 spreader bars total are allowed.
Radiator
1. Any type automotive radiator may be used but MUST be mounted in stock position. At driver’s option, he/she may compete without a radiator, but MUST run on water in the engine block only. NO RESERVE TANKS ARE ALLOWED.
Gas Tank
1. Gas Tank must be mounted in bed behind cab, tightly secured, and covered. Plastic tanks must be in a solid metal containment box & covered or you will not be allowed to participate. No exceptions. (We strongly recommend metal tanks!) Absolutely NO stock fuel lines. Secure new fuel line properly inside of the driver’s compartment, not underneath truck. Keep away from exhaust. Gas tank protectors must be mounted to the cage or the floor pan, not both and is not to extend more than 36 inches from the front of the bed, but can be full width of bed. Gas tank protector if on cage must be a "halo" type bar only, no gap required between protector and cage if floor mounted and not connected to sheet metal in any way (bolted or welded). Electric fuel pumps must be double clamped and covered. NO electronic fuel pumps without a full cutoff switch.
Bumper
1. Maximum front bumper height is 28” from the ground to the BOTTOM of the bumper. Back bumper minimum height is 20” from the ground to the BOTTOM of the bumper.
2. If you make a "homemade pointy" you have to have it where it is the same dimensions as factory Chrysler pointy. We will have a template made from a fresh bumper. Anything that doesn't match factory dimensions will have to be cut. No small wedges allowed one's that looks like a wood splitting wedge.
3. Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges.
4. May weld up factory bumper brackets, or you may make homemade shocks but shocks can’t be bigger than 2” x 2” tubing. Your bumper brackets or shocks may not be welded, bolted, or modified to factory cross-member approx 10 inches behind the factory core support mount hole.
Tires
1. No solid Tires (Hyster tires, etc.) Tires MUST contain some air.
*****Attention*****
Please review the normal Modified car rules and apply all of those rules THAT CAN BE APPLIED.
We strongly suggest that you have roll over protection for Safety!
LAWNMOWERS
1. Must be a lawn mower no lawn tractors Must be belt driven
2. Motor that came factory on a lawnmower, nothing over 30HP
3. You may build a cage around your mower but wheels and tires must be able to be hit
4. Bumpers can not stick out more than 4in from the mower
5. Batteries must be removed after starting mower
6. A mower is out if it quits running, gets flipped over, catches fire, or if any of the drivers body touches another mower.
POWER WHEELS
$5 to participate
Kids 4-10 must be accompanied by a parent/guardian
Limited to 12-volt Power Wheels only! No ATV/Tractors.
Power Wheels must be stock - nothing added for strength.
Stock tires only.
No raising front or back.
Paint them up and let the kids have a blast!
HELMETS MANDATORY! Shoes-No sandals!
12 VOLT BATTERY LIMIT- Can be replaced with 12-volt mower battery, covered, anywhere except passenger seat.
Seat belts recommended.
Trunk and hood should be secured safely shut with something that cannot fly off and hurt anyone
2019 MARTINSVILLE AG FAIR DEMOLITION DERBY
RULES & REGULATIONS
DEMOLITION DERBY WILL BE RUN BY THE MARTINSVILLE FIRE DEPARTMENT/RESCUE PROMOTIONS
JUNE 15, 2019 - GATES OPEN AT 3:00 P.M.
TRAVIS PHILLIPS 217-822-7014 or EJ PICKENS 217-276-4671 WITH ANY QUESTIONS
MODIFIED WINNER WILL GET $1200.00
COMPACT WINNER WILL GET $800.00
PROMOD WINNER WILL GET $1000.00
BONE STOCK WINNER WILL GET $1200.00
MIDSIZE CLASS WILL GET $1200.00
TRUCK WINNER WILL GET $1200.00
LAWNMOWER winner will get $150.00
3 PAYOUTS - 1st, 2nd, 3rd IN EACH CLASS
3 TROPHIES PER CLASS
POWER WHEELS PARTICIPANTS WILL GET TROPHIES
Any DRIVER under the influence of alcohol or drugs will be DISQUALIFIED AND REMOVED from PREMISES WITH ENTRY FEE FORFEITED. Alcoholic beverages WILL NOT BE ALLOWED ON FAIR GROUNDS OR INFIELD! All vehicles entering the infield will be searched! If you don’t want your vehicle to be searched, don’t park in the infield. Anyone caught with alcohol on the fairgrounds will be removed and no refunds will be made.
Each driver must fill out an entry form the day of the derby at the designated location. Each driver must supply his or her own vehicle and only ONE entry per class per driver.
Drivers must be 16 years or older to enter. Drivers under the age of 18 MUST have a parent or guardian sign a waiver. Driver will receive a pit pass upon registration for the derby on the day of the derby. If vehicle does not pass inspection, the owner will have to pay for a pit pass if he or she wants to remain in the pit area.
NO ONE is allowed on the track or stage except the drivers, officials, and emergency personnel.
Any driver or crew member disobeying the rules will cause his or her vehicle to be disqualified. Drivers are responsible for the actions of their crew.
Contestants of the derby cannot be superintendents or officials of the Rescue Promotions sponsored Demolition Derby.
The Martinsville Ag Fair will not be held responsible for any vehicles or personal property before during and after the show.
Infield and pit speeds will be enforced. No hot-rodding, donuts, or other unsafe driving will be tolerated.
Any altercations between drivers, crew, or officials will be grounds for disqualifications and possibly barred from future derbies.
If a driver exits their vehicle during a green flag for any reason other than fire or injury he or she will be disqualified.
Rescue Promotions has the right to accept or reject any or all entries.
GENERAL RULES
1.THESE RULES ARE A GUIDELINE THAT SPECIFIES WHAT WE WILL ALLOW, IT DOES NOT SPECIFY WHAT WE WILL NOT ALLOW. IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION, CALL BEFORE YOU DO IT. DO NOT COME UP TO US AT THE DERBY AND ASK US TO SHOW YOU IN THE RULES WHERE IT STATES THAT BECAUSE IT DOESN’T. CALL FIRST!!!
2. If your under 18, you must have a signed consent form from a parent/guardian.
3. Due to fair ordinance, there is NO ALCOHOL allowed on the fairgrounds. Coolers will be inspected! You WILL forfeit any alcohol found and will lose it! No firearms, or weapons of any kind will be allowed.
4. A DOT approved helmet must be worn while on the track. Eye protection is required. LONG SLEEVE SHIRT MUST BE WORN.
5. Car must have working seat belts for the driver and must be worn during the heat.
6. If you are using a torch you must have a fire extinguisher with you.
7. NO HIT AND HOLD (no gangbanging) and NO sandbagging! If you don’t know what this is you better ask.
8. You must make contact within 60 seconds.
9. You only get one warning for a driver door hit, second time you disqualified! Drivers door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by officials to be careless or intentional you will be disqualified. If a driver uses the drivers door to block they will be disqualified.
10. One fire is allowed in the engine compartment, second fire you are disqualified. One fire in passenger compartment and you are disqualified. If door opens you will be disqualified. You can fix the door and return to the consolation heat.
11. NO Fighting will be tolerated and may result if MAF ejection or arrest.
12. No refunds if caught cheating.
13. Drivers will be assigned heats.
14. Please take all scrap with you! All items (including vehicles) left on the fair grounds the next day will become property of the Martinsville Fair.
15. No one is allowed on the track or stage except officials, emergency and track workers.
16. All drivers must attend the driver's meeting. Any issues protest will be brought up at this time.
17. Cars MUST be painted tastefully! No profanity or offensive material allowed on the car, including numbers!!! This is a family show!
18. $200 TO PROTEST A CAR. Only other drivers from that particular class are able to protest a car. The driver must have the cash in hand in order to protest. At the time of protest, both the protested car and the car owned by the protester will be reinspected. The only people that may be present during the reinspection of the protested car is the inspection crew, the driver of the protested car, and the protester. No other people may be within 50’ of the reinspection. If the car passes the inpection, the “protested” driver will receive the $200. However, if anything illegal is found, the $200 goes back to the protester.
19. All drivers must keep their hands inside the car at all times! If we see you driving with your hand on your door we will stop the race once, next time you’re out. We want everyone to leave with all the body parts they came with!
20. All glass, plastic, chrome, wheel weights, and loose debris must be removed from the car. All hitches must be removed. The stock gas tank must be removed.
21. No concrete anywhere on the car.
22. No hearses, limousines, x-frames or convertible frames are not allowed in other model cars. Allowable frame swaps: Chrysler shocker to y-frame swaps or opposite, Cadillac front clips under Cadillacs or pre-ran GM sedans only, Imperial sub-frames to other compatible Chryslers only.
23. Front doors should be painted white to help us cut down on door hits. If your door is not white, don’t whine if we don’t see a door hit on your car.
24. Horn must be removed or not used during the heat! Subject to disqualification if used.
25. You will be allowed 2 trips to the inspection line. Driver only must bring car to inspection unless pre-approved by head official.
26. SAFETY FIRST: No unsafe practices like protruding all thread, radiator drain hoses pointed at people, and teeth cut into the bumpers, etc. If a bumper or something comes loose during the race and appears to be a safety concern, we reserve the right to act and correct it.
27. In addition to the doors, the car may have the number on a roof sign - minimum of 24” tall.
28. ENGINE/TRANSMISSION MUST BE ISOLATED FROM THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT WITH STEEL, FIRE BLANKET, RUBBER, OR APPROVED FIRE RESISTANT MATERIAL IF FIREWALL/FLOORBOARDS ARE MODIFIED. GAS TANK AND BATTERY MUST BE COVERED AS WELL.
29. Once again, OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL, so if unsure if you can do something, please call ahead.
30. If putting patches on frame after heats, consult an Official before you put any band-aid on your car. Remember, only 6 total repairs. ASK BEFORE YOU DO IT!!
31. We strongly suggest that you have roll over protection AND driver compartment cage for safety.
MODIFIED RULES
CAGE **REQUIRED** Spreader bar must be at least channel, square tubing, or pipe, no thin wall material! Spreader bar must not be more than 8” behind the rear seat. Car must have REQUIRED door protection for driver. Minimum Recommended Cage– four point cage with one bar close to the firewall and another not more than 8” behind the driver seat. Front cage bar (dash bar) must be straight across front of car and maintain the 6” gap to the distributor protector. You are allowed two down bars per side that may attach to the frame in one of two ways. You may use 1-1” bolt or all-thread through a standard size body mount plate and weld your down bar to the plate, no fillers or you may weld the down bar directly to the top of the frame using no fillers. These down bars must be attached at the front no further forward than the front door seam, rear down bar within the 12” behind the seat measurement. Front down bars must mount to side rail only, not the front clip. There may also be 1 rollover loop that can be attached to the bar behind the seat and go straight up over the exterior side of the roof. No portion of the cage can be further past 12” behind the seat. Seat must mount within 4“ of the factory bolts. Cage may have 4 down legs, 2 spreader bars and 2 door bars. DOUBLE DOOR BARS ALLOWED BUT MUST BE A MINIMUM OF 4” ABOVE THE FLOOR PAN. No other kickers / support bars that reinforce the car will be allowed.
1. Battery must be moved inside the passenger compartment and tightly fastened with a cover. You may use 1 automotive battery or 1 large marine battery.
2. Gas Tank must be mounted inside the passenger compartment, tightly secured, and covered. Plastic tanks must be in a solid metal containment box and covered or you will not be allowed to participate. No exceptions. (We strongly recommend metal tanks!). Absolutely NO stock fuel lines. Secure new fuel line properly inside of the driver’s compartment, not underneath car. Keep away from exhaust. Gas tank protectors must be mounted to the cage or the floor pan, not both and side bars must be at least 12” from the side sheet metal. Gas tank protector, if on cage must be a "halo" type bar only, no gap required between protector and cage if floor mounted and not connected to sheet metal in any way (bolted or welded). Electric fuel pumps must be double clamped and covered. NO electronic fuel pumps without a fuel cutoff switch.
3. Battery and Gas Tank must be in separate areas and covered (not next to each other) OR in separate containment boxes.
4. Brakes must be working – be prepared to demonstrate. Violators will not be allowed to participate if this occurs before or during the events.
5. No extra engine cooling devices. We will allow 1 transmission cooler. Transmission coolers must be near floor level or contained. Steel or high pressure lines only.
6. Radiators must remain in stock position with no reinforcement. Radiator guards must mount to radiator only. Engines must be mounted with the #1 spark plug being lined up with the ball joint and/or strut, no farther back! Engine mounting chains may be bolted or welded but only to engine cradle, not the side rail.
7. Wire is to be #9 wire, unlimited amount (Use as much as you want because anyone can get it)
8. Hood MUST be open at inspection– NO EXCEPTIONS! If you bring it wired shut, we WILL cut it open to inspect. Hood must be brought to the inspection line if not attached to car. You MAY use 6 pcs. of 1" all-thread but nuts must have handle for easy removal. The front two hood bolts can go through frame by the core support. The other four must be sheet metal to sheet metal. You may use 2” angle x 4” long in 6 spots for bolting hood and fender together as an option to running all thread to the core support. No other hood support or angle “handles” allowed on the hood. You must remove hood springs or cylinders before running. You may have 6 hold-downs on hood and trunk. Unlimited wire. Hood must cover fan blade or fan taken off, no exceptions. HOOD MUST FIT BETWEEN THE FENDERS LIKE FACTORY. Hood MUST remain in stock position. (Not shifted and bent down to the bumper to protect the radiator.) Holes must be cut in hood for fire extinguishment. (If there are not header holes, a special hole must be cut.)
9. Doors – All doors can be welded shut. Weld CAN be solid on ALL doors. You may also skip weld, chain, or wire them shut as long as it is SECURE. Top of doors may be pinched and welded with no fillers. Outside seams allowed plate up to 4” wide.
10. Roof - In addition to the doors, the car must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the car a minimum of 24” tall. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the car!!! This is a family show!
11. Trunk – We MUST be able to see inside of trunk compartment. You must have at least a 4” diameter hole in the lid. Trunk lids can be attached 1 of 3 ways:
a.) full weld maximum 3" width material and 1/4” thick and 2 pieces of all-thread to the frame
b.) 6 pieces of up to 1” all-thread 2 to frame, 4 to sheet metal with no weld
c.) Unlimited #9 wire (wire allowed with all options)
Wagon tailgates are considered same as a trunk lid. You may NOT attach the trunk lid to the floor of the trunk. You cannot see under the lid when this is done. The lid must be mounted or removed. The rear deck must be removed on station wagons! Rear hatch cylinders must be removed when applicable. Rear window bar can only attach 2” onto trunk lid, any further and you will cut. Window bar not allowed on wagons.
12. Body Mounts may be taken out or replaced with stacked washers and all thread or bolts NO bigger than 1”. Washers used must not be bigger than 4”x 4” and must be free floating, must have spacing, gap must be maintained to fully inspect topside of frame - not welded to the body or frame. To make it easier, instead of washers, you may leave the original puck, replace the bolts, and torque them down to smash the puck some as long as a space is maintained. The front body mounts may be replaced with all thread that also holds the hood down, but we require that you weld a handle to the hood nuts so we can easily open it without a wrench. You may add (2) body mounts at the driver’s location of choice. Extra body mounts must be welded to or pass through frame. All other body mounts must remain in their stock position unless rust out prevents this and then must be pre-approved. Angle iron is allowed in this location only for ease of use to run wire to. Must be 4”x 4” max. You also may weld a 3”x 3” washer on top of each body mount hole, rusted or not. Factory washer or cut plate allowed no thicker than ¼”. All thread or bolts only allowed to have 4” past each nut at the frame or body level whichever it is securing.
13. Bumpers: You can use ANY factory bumper or bumper shock on ANY model car. 2 bumper shocks max per fame rail, one front and one rear only per side. There must be a minimum 6" gap between bumper shocks and a-arms. You may manufacture your own bumper mounts within these limits (4” max material). If you make a "homemade pointy" you have to have it where it is the same dimensions as factory Chrysler pointy. We will have a template made from a fresh bumper. Anything that doesn't match factory dimensions will have to be cut. No small wedges allowed one's that looks like a wood splitting wedge. You are allowed 6” of the frame rail to mount your bumper with homemade components. Maximum homemade bumper height 6”. 6” maximum bumper material, 4” max material on bumper shocks, cannot be stacked. Your mounting is restricted to the rail only and can't bridge across frame rails. In addition to the weld &/or bolts, we also recommend either wiring or chaining the bumper to the frame. You may use a strap to help hold bumper on. It is to be no thicker than 1/4” and no wider than 3” and should not extend past 6” on top of the frame. Bumper strap to top or bottom of frame not both. No kickers from corner of bumper to frame. You are allowed to run a 1/4" spec bumper with a factory chrome skin covering it. Can be up to 1/4" box tubing but must appear like a bumper! Minor “bumper only” reinforcement allowed to extend the life, but must be on the bumper only. No rear bumper brackets on the front of cars. Hard nosing allowed. You are allowed up to 24" of bumper to body welding with no fillers or plates. That is total for front and rear bumpers. Maximum front bumper height is 22” from the ground to the BOTTOM of the bumper. Minimum back bumper height is 16” from the ground to the BOTTOM of the bumper.
14. Frames: There must not be any frame plating, filling, stuffing, or concrete. You may weld a PLATE band-aid NO BIGGER than 4” x 6” x ¼” to a crack, break, or severe bend in the frame of a pre-ran car or a rusted through section of a fresh car. MUST be able to see the crack or bend for verification. Band-aid must be flat plate, NO angle iron, no bending plate to make angle. Band-aids must not be welded to other band-aids. NO MORE than 4 band-aids on the frame (total) to repair a crack or bend, so if your frame has more damage than that, some cracks will need to let nature take its course! Do not call to see if you can put on a 5th, because you can’t. You may seam weld the frame the entire length. Seam welds should be no more than 1/2" wide. If a portion of the frame needs replaced, you may do so after checking with the head inspector (DON’T get excessive). NO frame pinning. There cannot be any undercoating, paint, or other material on the frame. No grind marks on frame unless approved. A 22” hump plate is allowed but must be one continuous plate. Hump plate can be kicked forward, backward, or centered as long as it contacts the center of the hump. ¼” thick on the outside only and must be contoured to the frame. Can be no more than 4” tall.
15. No Body Plates except to hold the spreader bars in place or to protect driver, but not to exceed 6” past the door seam. Inside of doors can be welded with no fillers. You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal of same thickness only! Do not cut rust out-weld 2” beyond rust. You may re-weld factory body seams, but do NOT add any steel other than the weld bead. No weld stacking or filler on anybody or frame bead (except the doors.) No body panel doubling!
16. Skid Plates are allowed but must remain separate for your oil and transmission. No full length skid plates and no bolting & welding it to the frame.
17. Distributor Protectors allowed, but must not touch the cage anywhere. Sheet metal only. 6” gap between protector and cage. There can be nothing between, above or below the distributor protector and the dash bar besides the firewall.
18. Tires: No solid Tires (Hyster tires, etc.) Tires MUST contain some air.
19. Car must have a pipe, wire, or plate from the cowl to the roof to prevent the hood from entering car. You may add one to the front and side windows. Sheetmetal to sheetmetal mounting only. Nothing to cage or rollover bar. 2 pieces in each window opening max. Max material is 4 x 1/4. All window braces must be outboard of the distributor protector. This is for your safety, not to reinforce your car!
20. Springs: Stock Springs must remain on the car. 4 clamps allowed on each leaf spring, no bigger than 2x4x3/8”. You cannot weld the leafs together! Springs must fit inside 3/8” wrench opening. You can wire or bolt the coils to the rear end and weld the leaf brackets to the car. On coil spring cars you may put taller springs in to get height "don't get extreme" but you cannot weld any other material to them or in place of springs. 98-02s- you have 1 of 2 options. 1) you may use the ztr brackets or make your own brackets but must resemble the way it would mount in a 79-97 ford 2) you can cut the package trey out of a older ford and weld in the 98-02 but no doubling of package treys and may cut the brackets off a older ford and re-weld on 98-02 to mount bottom trailing arms.
21. Rear-ends can be of car origin or can be switched out to 8-lug single wheel rear-end. No welding leafs directly to frame on any leaf modification. The leafs of any car must have arch and no homemade flat stacks. Leafs must also have a 2 inch stager.
22. You may run 1 chain around each side of the rear end and through the floorboard.
23. Steering System: You may alter your steering column to prevent loss and strengthen your tie rods as long as they function as stock.
24. NO added reinforcement from the core support to the firewall allowed. NO fender or core support reinforcement such as flat stock, angle iron, etc.
25. 03 AND NEWER FORD RULES: all crush zones must remain open and visible. Factory cradle from Ford car only mounted within 2” of factory position. Mandatory ¾” hole at firewall to fully inspect. Bolt in cradle allowed to same dimensions as factory 02 & older crown vic cradles.
26. Solid Suspension is allowed. You are allowed 2 pieces of strap or similar material no more than 2” wide and can't be welded more than 2” on frame 2 spots on each a-arm per side. A-arms can't be welded solid. Must attach directly below or above a-arm not kicked forward or backward to reinforce frame.
27. We strongly suggest that you have roll over protection for Safety!!!
28. LEAF CONVERSIONS ARE ALLOWED
COMPACTS
Body
1. Remove all glass.
2. Cylinders must be removed on hood and hatch if applicable.
3. Secure hatchbacks or trunks with wire, chain, or welding. Remove rear deck lids on station wagons and hatchbacks if not steel (meaning fiberglass material)
4. Wire is to be #9 wire, unlimited amount (Use as much as you want because anyone can get it)
5. You may replace body mounts with all thread or bolts no bigger than 1”.
6. Car must have a pipe, wire, or plate from the cowl to the roof to prevent the hood from entering car. You may add one to the front & side windows. Sheetmetal to sheetmetal mounting only. Nothing to cage or rollover bar. 2 pieces in each window opening max. Max. Material is 4x1/4. This is for your safety, not to reinforce your car!
7. You may use wire, bolts, or all thread no bigger than 1" to secure hood. (all-thread nuts need a handle to open hood)
8. Front doors should be painted white to help us cut down on door hits. If your door is not white – don’t whine if we don’t see a door hit on your car.
9. Roof - In addition to the doors, the car must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the car a minimum of 24” tall. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the car!!! This is a family show!
10. 4 4x6 plates ¼ in material max on car! 22 in hump plates 1 per side of car!
Drive Train
1. Maximum original wheelbase dimension is 105” center wheel to center wheel! A car may not run the race with a longer original factory wheelbase! No shortening of Frame to make it 105”.
2. Engine must be 4 or 6 cylinders only. (No V8’s)
3. NO 4x4 compact cars unless one driveshaft has been removed disabling that option.
4. No 8-lug rear-ends/ No floater rear-ends allowed.
Bumper
1. Bumper height must be less than 24 in to botton, normal heights in front and the back not dropped to the ground, at the decision of the official (Safety 1st)
2. You can use ANY factory bumper or bumper shock on ANY model car. 2 bumper shocks max per fame rail, one front and one rear only per side. There must be a minimum 6" gap between bumper shocks and a-arms/strut. You may manufacture your own bumper mounts within these limits (4” max material). If you make a "homemade pointy" you have to have 24 in across at rear no more than 8 in out and 2 in flat spot on tip!!!!. No small wedges allowed one's that looks like a wood splitting wedge. You are allowed 6” of the frame rail to mount your bumper with homemade components. Maximum homemade bumper height 6”. 6” maximum bumper material, 4” max material on bumper shocks, cannot be stacked. Your mounting is restricted to the rail only and can't bridge across frame rails. In addition to the weld &/or bolts, we also recommend either wiring or chaining the bumper to the frame. You may use a strap to help hold bumper on. It is to be no thicker than 1/4” and no wider than 3” and should not extend past 6” on top of the frame. Bumper strap to top or bottom of frame not both. No kickers from corner of bumper to frame. You are allowed to run a 1/4" spec bumper with a factory chrome skin covering it. Can be up to ¼” box tubing but must appear like a bumper! Minor “bumper only” reinforcement allowed to extend the life, but must be on the bumper only. No rear bumper brackets on the front of cars. Hard nosing allowed. You are allowed up to 24" of bumper to body welding with no fillers or plates. That is total for front and rear bumpers.
Driver Compartment
1. Remove stock gas tanks and put one in the back floor board, tightly secure, and cover. Gas Tank must be mounted inside the passenger compartment, tightly secured, and covered. Plastic tanks must be in a solid metal containment box & covered or you will not be allowed to participate, no exceptions. (We strongly recommend metal tanks!). Absolutely NO stock fuel lines. Secure new fuel line properly inside of the driver’s compartment, not underneath car. Keep away from exhaust. Gas tank protectors must be mounted to the cage or the floor pan, not both. Side bars must be at least 12” from the side sheet metal. Gas tank protector if on cage must be a "halo" type bar only, no gap required between protector and cage if floor mounted and not connected to sheet metal in any way (bolted or welded). Electric fuel pumps must be double clamped and covered. NO electronic fuel pumps without a full cutoff switch.
2. Move battery to inside the passenger compartment, tightly secure it, and cover it up.
3. MUST have a spreader bar behind the seat & must have driver door protection. Up to a 4” diameter Bar can be used
4. Cage must be at least a 4 point cage
5. No kickers or angled down tubes allowed
6. The cage must be contained inside the car
7. Spreader bar must be at least channel, square tubing, or pipe, no thin wall material! Spreader bar must be behind seat.
8. You may weld, wire, or chain doors shut.
9. UNLIMITED # 9 wire use.
11. If inspection holes are not adequate in frame rails, we will drill a 3/4” hole approx 4” ahead of the strut on outside of the frame.
Tires: No solid Tires (Hyster tires, etc.) Tires MUST contain some air.
Please review the normal Modified car rules and apply all of those rules THAT CAN BE APPLIED.
We strongly suggest that you have roll over protection for Safety!!!
MIDSIZE CLASS/MINIVANS/MINI TRUCKS
1. NO 4X4s
2. MIDSIZE CLASS rules are the same as the compact rules with the exceptions of: Must be over 105" wheelbase.110 max car wheel base
3. Mini trucks may add 2 bolts or straps to the bed .
PRO MODS
1. Any year, make, or model car. No hearses or 4 X 4’s.
2. Frame kickers are allowed
3. No skinned cars. No concrete or solid stock inside frames.
4. All caged components must remain inside the driver’s compartment of the car.
5. You are allowed 100” of plate on each half of the car.
6. It is a Pro-Mod, not a Powder Puff. We expect you to drive it as such.
BONE STOCK
RULES AND REGULATIONS - ALL RULES WILL BE STRICTLY ENFORCED
TYPE OF CAR
1. Any American made, hardtop automobile or station wagon is allowed.
PREPARATION OF CAR
(Remove following before arriving at fairgrounds or track.)
1. All glass including windshield, side windows, rear window, head and tail lights, will be removed before entering fairgrounds. Rolling windows down is not permitted!!
2. Rear seat of sedan must be removed, top and bottom. On station wagons all seats and decking must be removed. Station wagons must be emptied to the floorboards.
3. Cars must have a seatbelt and working brakes . MANDATORY
4. Two batteries any size, are allowed. If battery is to be moved from original position, it must be placed on floorboard of driver's compartment, and securely fastened and covered.
5. MANDATORY - Front windshield must have a loop of #9 wire from roof to firewall for safety. 2 loops of #9 wire only in one (1) spot.
6. Trailer hitches: Class A or frame mounted must be totally removed. Class B or bumper mounted trailer ball stub must be cut off.
7. Drivers door must be painted white, both front doors if a passenger is riding.
GAS TANKS AND FUEL PUMPS
1. Stock gas tank MUST be removed from original position and mounted in the rear seat area and secured. A marine tank or fuel cell is strongly recommended. All lines and fittings must be leak proof and meet approval of track officials. Electric fuel pumps are allowed, but must have a shut-off switch within reach of the driver. Tanks must be covered before entering the track.
2.All lines must be run inside the car. All lines should be double clamped.
3. No alcohol - Gasoline Only
RADIATOR AND CORE SUPPORT
1. Radiator must be in stock position . Any automotive type radiator can be used.
2. Radiator must be OEM automotive radiator. No Protectors.
3. No reserve tanks and no added cooling capacity.
4. No welding or added metal to the core support.
SUSPENSION
1. Suspension must be original factory suspension for that car. Must have bounce.
2. No suspension modifications allowed. Must remain stock.
Body
1. Body must remain completely stock. No sedagons.
2. No body seam welding -No doubling of panels -hammer and crease all you want, but No added metal - No reinforcing of firewall and firewall must cover all holes.
3. Body bolts at the core support and all at the very rear of the car may be replaced with up to and no larger than (1) one inch bolts or all thread with washers no bigger than (4) four inches in diameter and no thicker than 1/4 inch. These are too be used to hold down your hood and trunk lid. Cannot be sleeved.
4. NO OTHER BODY BOLTS CAN BE CHANGED EXCEPT THESE (4) FOUR.
5. Fenders may not be bolted together.
6. Doors may be chained, wired, or welded. Welding the doors is the only welding allowed on the car body. When welding doors, it must be done in a (6) six inch weld - skip (6) six inch pattern.
7. Anything can be removed**** Nothing can be added**** except for rules (3) three and (6) six.
HOODS AND TRUNKS
1. Hoods must have (2) two holes, at least (4) four inches in diameter on each side of the carburetor. Not directly on top of the carburetor. If the hood is removed, either the fan or fan belt must be removed.
2. Hoods must be open upon request during inspection. If we cannot see, we will cut. Hoods must come to the inspection area with vehicle.
3. Hoods and trunk lid must remain on factory hinges. Hood and truck lid can be wired or chained in (4) four spots each side. Trunk lid can be tucked, but not welded.
4. Rear fenders can be rolled in.
5. No welding or added metal on the hood or trunk.
6. Relocation of the rear speaker deck is not allowed. Must remain is stock position. Cannot be removed.
SAFETY CAGES
1. All cars should have a safety cage. A rollover bar is strongly recommended.
2. You should have a (4) point cage. The cage can be welded to sheet metal only.You can have up to (4) four down posts, (2) two per side. You should have a dash bar, a cross bar behind the seat and (2) two door cross bars. The door bars cannot be lass than (12) twelve inches off of the floor. Nothing can be ran between the rear wheel humps or welded to the humps. No kickers to the frame humps - front or back. All down post post must be straight. NO ANGLES
3.Rear Seat bar must be within (8) Eight inches of the back of front seat.
4. Dash bar cannot be more than (6) six inches in front of door seam. Dash bar cannot be in front of front door post.
5. Cage can be made out of (3) three inch pipe or (3) three inch square tubing, MAX
6. All down tubes must be at or behind the dash bar, straight up and down. Welded to sheet metal only.
7. All door bars must stop at the dash bar. Cannot extend to the firewall.
GAS TANK PROTECTOR
1. Protector is allowed for safety. It must be mounted to the rear seat bar. Must be free floating and no wider than (24) twenty four inches. It cannot be angled and cannot extend past the center of the of the rear doors.
FRAMES - STOCK - STOCK - STOCK
1. Must remain stock - no welding
2. No pitching, tilting, or tipping of frames.
3. No hump plates and no leaf conversions.
4. Steering columns must remain stock from gearbox forward.
5. PRE-RUN CARS CAN HAVE 2, 2X4" PLATES NO THICKER THAN THE FRAME IT MUST PATCH A BEND OR A RIP.
BUMPERS
1. Any stock car bumper on any car. No built bumpers and no loaded stock bumpers
2. Bumpers may be welded on. You can weld the skin to the support, but may not add metal! You are allowed 14 inches of bumper shock on each side. Only two pieces...one for each side, any material, no bigger than 2.5 inches by 2.5 inches and no longer than 14 inches. Pipe, angle iron, strap steel, square tube, or box tubing are all acceptable as long as it isn't bigger than stated. Bumper shock must be at least 4 inches from the front A frame mount. Please take the time to get the bumper fastened to the car well. Bumpers may be chained, but only to the frame. Chain may be welded on at each end. We don't want to pick bumpers up off the track. This is still a stock class, if its more than the rules allow, be prepared to cut or run mod.
3. No shortening of frame to mount bumper!!!! Must be stock length.
ENGINES AND TRANSMISSION
1. Any stock engine or transmission may be used in any car, but must be mounted within(5) five inches of original motor. Floor shifters are allowed.
2. No performance parts or engines allowed; stock only. The only acceptable upgrades are timing chain, headers, basic tune-up etc. No high performance rebuilds or pro-mod style engines are allowed in Bonestock cars.
3. Officials have the right to deny any car participating if the motor is deemed illegal. If at the end of the derby the official deems the motor illegal, the driver will be disqualified and the placings moved up. MODIFIED MOTORS DON'T BELONG IN THIS CLASS,
4. NO ALCOHOL - GASOLINE ONLY
5. Chained, welded or homemade motor mounts will be permitted, but must meet approval of officials.
6. Any type of header is allowed, but must be directed away from driver compartment.
7. Transmission oil coolers and engine oil coolers are permitted. Must be secure and contained and covered inside the car, for drivers protection.
8. No pulley protectors - No skid plates - No distributor protectors - No engine or transmission protectors -
9. LOWER ENGINE CRADLES ARE ALLOWED. Can only be attached at factory mount location
REAR END
1. Any stock OEM factory automobile rear end can be used in any car. No aftermarket rear ends allowed. No floater. No reinforcement to rear end allowed.
2. On models originally equipped with leaf springs, stock leaf springs and hangers MUST be used. Leaf packs on all cars MUST be OEM stock.
3. Rear end spider gears may be welded solid.
4. You may have (5) five spring clamps per spring. You pick if you want them in front of or behind axle, or split them between front and back.
Tires
1. ANY AIR FILLED TIRE. Hyster tires and forklift tires are allowed as long as the aren't solid and are on a stock automobile wheel.
2. No double stuffed tires, valve stem protectors or bead locks allowed.
*****Attention*****
The only welding allowed will be the bumper, cage, doors, motor mounts, and spider gears and 2, 2x4" plates on preruns no thicker metal than the frame. These are outlined above.
If it doesn't say you can do it, Don't assume you can. Call first or don't do it!!!
No added metal, unless specified above.
Everybody needs to read and re-read these rules. If you are found to be too built for these rules you will given (3) three options.
A. Cut and remove illegal parts.
B. Load on trailer and go home.
C. Run in the modified derby.
TRUCKS
1. Any 2-wheel drive pickup, SUV ½ ton to 1 ton trucks, must be an OEM PICKUP TRUCK frame. No industrial style, straight C channel style frames will be allowed, and no dually wheels will be allowed. 4 x 4 Trucks or SUVs are allowed, however, one driveshaft must be removed so that the 4 wheel drive option is disabled.
2. Protectors - Distributor protectors allowed, NO radiator guards allowed (other than stock A.C. condenser), NO tranny protectors, or tranny case modifications. Also, NO rear-end bracing!!!
3. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the truck!!! This is a family show!
Frame
1. All seams can be welded, single-pass only. No pinning, plating, filling, stuffing or painting; other than what is allowed in our rules. must be an OEM PICKUP TRUCK frame. No industrial style, straight C channel style frames will be allowed
Drivetrain
1. Any motor or transmission in any vehicle.
2. Basic engine cradles only with pulley protector allowed, sway bar must be cut between frame to run pulley protector.
3. Skid plates allowed but can’t extend more than ½” from the pan they are protecting.
4. Solid lower engine mounts are allowed.
5. No transmission case modifications.
6. Slider shafts are allowed.
7. No rear-ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup. If running a dually rear-end, you may only run one wheel per side. No rear-end bracing.
Suspension
1. Front suspensions may be converted from coil spring to leaf spring design. Keep the leaf springs mounts minimal. Do not use them to strengthen the frame.
2. Tie-rods can be welded up but no additional metal can be added
3. You may add 2 clamps in front of the axle and 3 behind the axle. Max of 2 bolts per clamp. Bolts can’t be bigger than 3/8” and clamps can only be 2” wide. No duct tape or welding on the springs.
4. Aftermarket steering shafts are allowed
5. Solid front suspensions are allowed but do not use this to strengthen the frame or you will need to cut it in order to run.
Body
1. Remove all glass.
2. All body bolts can be replaced and bolted solid with no bolts bigger than 1” You may use 1” all-thread in the core support and run it up through the hood. 4” x 4” maximum body mount washer size
3. Trucks should remain looking like trucks. Bedside must remain in the stock position. You may fold bedsides over from the wheel wells back and tailgate may be folded over. If you choose to do so, you may use 2 pieces of all thread on the frame behind the wheel wells to hold bedsides down or may be attached to bed floor with #9 wire. Must be a gap to see inside. Suburbans may be ‘sedagoned’. If you choose to “tuck” a suburban or other long roof vehicle, you may only attach the roof to quarter panels with #9 wire. You may not weld the roof down. You must have a hole measuring 12 x 12 inches in the roof for inspection.
4. You may weld, wire, or chain doors shut. The tailgate may be wired, bolted, or welded shut. The tailgate may be lowered half the height of the tailgate. Cab may be welded to bed (please do).
5. In addition to the 2 pieces of all-thread in the core support, you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4” x 4”. It must be body to body only.
6. No more than 10-3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
7. Wire is to be #9 wire, unlimited amount (Use as much as you want because anyone can get it)
8. Truck must have a pipe, wire, or plate from the cowl to the roof to prevent the hood from entering Truck. You may add one to the front & side windows. 2 pieces in each window opening max. Max. Material is 4x3/8”. This is for your safety, not to reinforce your truck! Driver’s Safety comes first.
9. NO REINFORCEMENT anywhere on the truck.
10. Five 3/8” bolts per wheel well. Hardware washers only.
11. If weight is added to the bed, it must be safe and non-reinforcing at the inspector’s discretion.
12. Roof - In addition to the doors, the truck must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the truck a minimum of 24” tall. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the truck!!! This is a family show!
13. PRE-RAN TRUCKS may weld a plate/band-aid no bigger than 4”x 6” x 3/8” up to four (4) on a visible bend. There must be at least a 1-inch gap between plates. Must be flat plate. No angle iron, no bending plate to make angle or no C-channel may be used. If rear of truck is wedged, up to discretion of inspection crew to have you modify it for safety purposes.
Driver Compartment
1. Move battery to inside the cab, tightly secure it, and cover it up. You may use 2 automotive batteries or 1 large marine battery.
2. MUST have a spreader bar behind the seat & must have driver door protection. Up to a 4” diameter Bar can be used
3. CAGE *REQUIRED* Spreader bar must be at least channel, square tubing, or pipe, NO thin wall material! Truck must have REQUIRED door protection for driver. Minimum required 4 point cage. Front cage bar (dash bar) must be straight across front of truck and maintain the 6” gap to the distributor protector. You are allowed two down bars per side that may attach to the frame. Cage must go no further back than the front edge of the rear wheel humps. Down legs in rear must go to flat part of frame only. There may also be 1 rollover loop that can be attached to the bar behind the seat and go straight up over the exterior side of the roof. Cage may have 4 down legs, 3 spreader bars and 2 door bars.
4. No kickers or angled down tubes allowed
5. Spreader bar must be at least channel, square tubing, or pipe, no thin wall material! Spreader bar must be behind seat. 3 spreader bars total are allowed.
Radiator
1. Any type automotive radiator may be used but MUST be mounted in stock position. At driver’s option, he/she may compete without a radiator, but MUST run on water in the engine block only. NO RESERVE TANKS ARE ALLOWED.
Gas Tank
1. Gas Tank must be mounted in bed behind cab, tightly secured, and covered. Plastic tanks must be in a solid metal containment box & covered or you will not be allowed to participate. No exceptions. (We strongly recommend metal tanks!) Absolutely NO stock fuel lines. Secure new fuel line properly inside of the driver’s compartment, not underneath truck. Keep away from exhaust. Gas tank protectors must be mounted to the cage or the floor pan, not both and is not to extend more than 36 inches from the front of the bed, but can be full width of bed. Gas tank protector if on cage must be a "halo" type bar only, no gap required between protector and cage if floor mounted and not connected to sheet metal in any way (bolted or welded). Electric fuel pumps must be double clamped and covered. NO electronic fuel pumps without a full cutoff switch.
Bumper
1. Maximum front bumper height is 28” from the ground to the BOTTOM of the bumper. Back bumper minimum height is 20” from the ground to the BOTTOM of the bumper.
2. If you make a "homemade pointy" you have to have it where it is the same dimensions as factory Chrysler pointy. We will have a template made from a fresh bumper. Anything that doesn't match factory dimensions will have to be cut. No small wedges allowed one's that looks like a wood splitting wedge.
3. Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges.
4. May weld up factory bumper brackets, or you may make homemade shocks but shocks can’t be bigger than 2” x 2” tubing. Your bumper brackets or shocks may not be welded, bolted, or modified to factory cross-member approx 10 inches behind the factory core support mount hole.
Tires
1. No solid Tires (Hyster tires, etc.) Tires MUST contain some air.
*****Attention*****
Please review the normal Modified car rules and apply all of those rules THAT CAN BE APPLIED.
We strongly suggest that you have roll over protection for Safety!
LAWNMOWERS
1. Must be a lawn mower no lawn tractors Must be belt driven
2. Motor that came factory on a lawnmower, nothing over 30HP
3. You may build a cage around your mower but wheels and tires must be able to be hit
4. Bumpers can not stick out more than 4in from the mower
5. Batteries must be removed after starting mower
6. A mower is out if it quits running, gets flipped over, catches fire, or if any of the drivers body touches another mower.
POWER WHEELS
$5 to participate
Kids 4-10 must be accompanied by a parent/guardian
Limited to 12-volt Power Wheels only! No ATV/Tractors.
Power Wheels must be stock - nothing added for strength.
Stock tires only.
No raising front or back.
Paint them up and let the kids have a blast!
HELMETS MANDATORY! Shoes-No sandals!
12 VOLT BATTERY LIMIT- Can be replaced with 12-volt mower battery, covered, anywhere except passenger seat.
Seat belts recommended.
Trunk and hood should be secured safely shut with something that cannot fly off and hurt anyone