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Post by Underbuilt on Aug 22, 2017 16:48:27 GMT -5
So I got my motor going, and I was touching all the pipes to make sure that all cylinders were going, and I got to 7, and its bone cold. I checked plug wire, plugs, and distributor cap. It has 120 compression as long as the one next to it. The spark plug out is sparking and working as should. I'm stumped and don't know what to do. Anyone have any solutions??
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Post by klicky96 on Aug 22, 2017 17:25:08 GMT -5
Make sure the valve is opening. How does the engine run and sound?
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Post by Underbuilt on Aug 22, 2017 17:26:43 GMT -5
It sounds good. Runs and idles good too.
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Post by 4sasquach on Aug 22, 2017 22:36:08 GMT -5
check all valve functions and adjustments to that cylinder.. if thats sll in check im guessing the cam lobe is flat.. typical on 305's for some reason.. bad castings i guess?..
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snake
Heat Winner
Posts: 368
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Post by snake on Aug 22, 2017 23:38:23 GMT -5
cam lobe is flat
I just took apart this week 3rd 77 to 8os 305 every one had one or more flat lobe on the cam ,your going to need a lifter puller , don't forget to pull fuel pump out , Id post a pic
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Post by Underbuilt on Aug 23, 2017 20:03:33 GMT -5
So if it's flat... then what? Is it hurting anything? Can I run it as is? Or would that be dumb. I just rebuilt this motor completely but left the cam stock... It's for chain 80s class
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Post by STROMI 121 on Aug 23, 2017 20:48:45 GMT -5
Personally Id throw a cam in it. In my opinion a cam is usually an absolute must during a non roller motor rebuild. The factory lobes rarely have any efficiency after 150k miles especially if the motor was not properly warned up regularly or the cold/fast idle wasn't working properly. However I am no engine expert, just what Ive seen.
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Post by Underbuilt on Aug 24, 2017 15:28:36 GMT -5
Ok. Anyone have a recommendation on a cam size then? It's all stock with a Holley 4 barrel on. Want something that sounds good.
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Aug 24, 2017 16:54:20 GMT -5
Just remember sound isnt everything but a 350 horse blue print rv cam or 274 cam. Both here just enough lobe to sound good with out adding head work. Then add a set of 4.11 or so gears an it will liven up the motor. Could get up to a 500 lift cam before any head work has to be done but then your getting close to pulling out a factory stud
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Post by STROMI 121 on Aug 24, 2017 23:02:06 GMT -5
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undertaker11
Heat Winner
get in, buckle up, and hold the hell on!!!!
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Post by undertaker11 on Sept 1, 2017 16:47:53 GMT -5
Just remember sound isnt everything but a 350 horse blue print rv cam or 274 cam. Both here just enough lobe to sound good with out adding head work. Then add a set of 4.11 or so gears an it will liven up the motor. Could get up to a 500 lift cam before any head work has to be done but then your getting close to pulling out a factory stud Dont forget anything 500 and above for a lift you need a stall converter as well, the stock one will not work with a high lift cam. |
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Post by STROMI 121 on Sept 1, 2017 19:56:40 GMT -5
You don't really need a big cam anyway for derby purposes IMO
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Post by Luke Wells on Sept 1, 2017 23:49:11 GMT -5
You don't really need a big cam anyway for derby purposes IMO But Stromi, a 800hp open wheel motor in a derby car is worth 98 cool guy points until it melts down. |
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Post by Underbuilt on Sept 2, 2017 10:18:39 GMT -5
Thanks for your help guys! Just got the cam and lifters in yesterday. Went with the SummitRacing 1103 set. Looked like the right in win my eyes. Will get it fired up and broke in this week hopefully. Any tips on breaking it in??
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lincoln
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Post by lincoln on Sept 2, 2017 15:18:54 GMT -5
Get a good break in oil or zinc additive. Today's oil will wipe out a flat tapper cam in a hurry.
Cam should come with recommended break in run time.
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