Post by utterback107 on Jan 10, 2017 17:31:14 GMT -5
****2017 VIGO COUNTY DEMOLITION DERBY RULES****
JULY 10TH AND 15TH OF 2017
Any DRIVER under the influence of alcohol or drugs will be DISQUALIFIED AND REMOVED from PREMISES WITH ENTRY FEE FORFEITED. Alcoholic beverages WILL NOT BE ALLOWED ON THE PROPERTY! All
vehicles entering the pits will be searched! If you don’t want your vehicle to be searched, don’t park in the pits. Anyone caught with alcohol on the fairgrounds will be removed and NO refunds will be given!
Each driver must fill out an entry form at the back gate the day of the derby. Each driver must supply his or her own vehicle and only ONE entry per class per driver.
Drivers must be 16 years or older to enter. Drivers under the age of 18 MUST have a parent or guardian sign a waiver. Driver will receive a pit pass upon registration for the derby on the day of the derby. If vehicle does not pass inspection, the owner will have to pay for a pit pass if he or she wants to remain in the pit area.
Nobody allowed on the track except the drivers, officials and emergency personnel. NO EXCEPTIONS!
Any driver or crew member disobeying the rules will cause his or her vehicle to be disqualified. Drivers are responsible for the actions of their crew.
The Vigo County Fair will not be held responsible for any vehicles or personal property before, during and after the show.
A 5 mph pit speed will be enforced. No hot-rodding, donuts, or other unsafe driving will be tolerated. KID FRIENDLY PIT AREA. These practices can be grounds for disqualification with entry fee forfeited.
Any altercations between drivers, crew, or officials will be grounds for disqualifications and possibly being barred from future derbies.
If a driver exits their vehicle during a green flag for any reason other than fire or injury he or she will be disqualified, also if vehicle moves during a red flag.
It is the Driver who qualifies, not the car
The Vigo County Fair reserves the right to accept or reject any or all entries.
DECISIONS OF OFFICIALS ARE FINAL!!!!!
GENERAL RULES:1. THESE RULES ARE A GUIDELINE THAT SPECIFIES WHAT WE WILL ALLOW, IT DOES NOT SPECIFY WHAT WE WILL NOT ALLOW. IF NOT LISTED HERE, CALL BEFORE YOU DO IT. DO NOT COME UP
TO US AT THE DERBY AND ASK US TO SHOW YOU IN THE RULES WHERE IT STATES THAT BECAUSE IT DOESN’T NEED TO. CALL FIRST!!!
2. If you’re under 18, you must have a signed consent form from a parent/legal guardian.
3. Due to a fair ordinance, there is NO ALCOHOL allowed on the fairgrounds. Coolers will be inspected! You WILL forfeit any alcohol found and will lose it! No firearms, knives, or weapons of any kind will be allowed.
4. DOT approved helmet MUST be worn while on the track. Eye Protection is required. Long Sleeve Shirt must be worn.
5. Car must have working seat belts for the driver & passenger & must be worn during the race.
6. An idle zone will be strictly enforced in ALL areas of the pits. Violators will be subject to grounds removal or arrest.
7. If you are using a torch, you must have a fire extinguisher with you.
8. NO gangbanging & NO sandbagging! – If you don’t know what this is, you better ask.
9. Must make contact within 60 seconds if you are having mechanical problems or hung up, otherwise, you must make AGGRESSIVE contact!!! We use our own discretion for this rule. If a driver is really hitting well, he may get more time, if a driver is love tapping, he may get less, so get used to it. Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door as a defense will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show. Put one on for them!
10. One (1) warning for driver’s door contact, 2nd time you are eliminated! Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rule. If you do it repeatedly, you will be disqualified.
11. One (1) fire is allowed in the engine compartment, second fire you are disqualified. One (1) fire in passenger compartment and you will be disqualified. If a door comes open you are disqualified.
12. NO fighting will be tolerated and may result in automatic arrest
13. If you are caught cheating, you get NOTHING back, so don’t ask!!!
14. Please take all scrap with you! All items (including vehicles) left in the park the next day WILL BECOME PROPERTY OF THE VIGO COUNTY FAIR.
15. Nobody on the track except the drivers, officials, and emergency personnel. NO EXCEPTIONS!
16. ALL drivers must attend the drivers meeting – ANY controversies must be brought up at the drivers meeting or not at all!
17. Cars MUST be painted tastefully! No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material allowed on the car, including numbers, also NO SOLID BLACK CARS!!! This is a family show! If you don’t know what this means, call!
18. THE FINAL 5 FEATURE WINNERS MAY BE FULLY INSPECTED AFTER THE SHOW BY THE OFFICIALS! We reserve the right to cut or drill anything in question at anytime. Failure to allow this will result in disqualification.
19. $100 TO PROTEST A CAR. Only other drivers from that particular heat are able to protest a car & the driver MUST have the cash in hand in order to protest. At the time of protest, BOTH the protested car AND the
car owned by the protester WILL be re-inspected. The ONLY people that may be present during the re-inspection of the protested car is the inspection crew, the driver of the protested car & the protester. NO other people may be within 50’ of the re-inspection. If the car passes the inspection, the “protested” driver will receive the $100. However, if anything illegal is found, the $100 goes back to the Protester.
20. All drivers' must keep their hands inside the car at all times! If we see you driving with your hand on your door we will stop the race once, next time you're out. We want everyone to leave with all the body parts they came with!
21. All glass, plastic, chrome, wheel weights, and loose debris must be removed from the car. All hitches must be removed. The stock gas tank MUST be removed.
22. No concrete anywhere on the car.
23. No hearses, taxis, limousines, x-frames, or convertible frames.
24. Front doors should be painted white to help us cut down on door hits. If your door is not white – don’t whine if we don’t see a door hit on your car. Numbers clearly painted with no offensive numbers allowed.
25. Horn must be removed or NOT used during the race! Subject to disqualification if used.
26. Driver only must bring car to inspection unless pre-approved by head official.
27. SAFETY FIRST: No unsafe practices like protruding all thread, radiator drain hoses pointed at people, and teeth cut into the bumpers, etc. If a bumper or something comes loose during the race and appears to be a safety concern, we reserve the right to act and correct it.
28. In addition to the doors, the car must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the car a minimum of 24” tall. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the car!!! This is a family show!
29.ENGINE / TRANSMISSION MUST BE ISOLATED FROM THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT WITH STEEL, FIRE BLANKET, RUBBER, OR APPROVED FIRE RESISTANT MATERIAL IF FIREWALL / FLOORBOARDS ARE MODIFIED.
30. Once again, OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL, so if unsure if you can do something, please call ahead.
31. You must have roll over protection for Safety!!!
*****All imperials allowed in mod class only. Please read over all rules, many changes have been made to help promoter and builder, even though rules are really similar make sure you read rules below to ensure you're up to spec.*****
MODIFIED RULES:
***NEW RULE LEAF CONVERSION ALLOWED***
CAGE **REQUIRED Spreader bar must be at least channel, square tubing, or pipe, NO thin wall material! Car must have REQUIRED door protection for driver. Minimum required 4 point cage. Front cage bar (dash bar) must be straight across front of car and maintain the 6" gap to the distributor protector. You are allowed two down bars per side that may attach to the frame. Cage must go no further back than the front edge of the rear wheel humps. Down legs in rear must go to flat part of frame only. There may also be 1 rollover loop that can be attached to the bar behind the seat and go straight up over the exterior side of the roof. Cage may have 4 down legs, 3 spreader bars and 2 door bars.
1. Battery must be moved inside the passenger compartment and tightly fastened with a cover. You may use 2 automotive batteries or 1 large marine battery.
2. Gas Tank must be mounted inside the passenger compartment, tightly secured, and covered. Plastic tanks must be in a solid metal containment box & covered or you will not be allowed to participate. No exceptions. (We strongly recommend metal tanks!). Absolutely NO stock fuel lines. Secure new fuel line properly inside of the driver’s compartment, not underneath car. Keep away from exhaust. Gas tank protectors must be mounted to the cage or the floor pan, not both. Gas tank protector if on cage must be a "halo" type bar only, no gap required between protector and cage if floor mounted and not connected to sheet metal in any way (bolted or welded). Electric fuel pumps must be double clamped and covered. NO electronic fuel pumps without a full cutoff switch.
3. Battery and Gas Tank must be in separate areas and covered (Not next to each other) OR in separate containment boxes.
4. Brakes must be working – be prepared to demonstrate. Violators will not be allowed to participate if this occurs before or during the events.
5. We will allow 1 transmission cooler and 1 engine cooler.
a) Transmission coolers must be near floor level or contained. Steel or high pressure lines only.
b) Transmission cross member allowed up to 3" x 3" x ¼" material, 6 inches along mounting on the frame
6. Radiators must remain in stock position with no reinforcement. Radiators must remain in stock position, radiator guards allowed but must be thin material and not be reinforcing to the overall structure of the car. Engines must be mounted with the #1 spark plug being lined up with the ball joint and/or strut, no farther back! Engine mounting chains may be bolted or welded but only to engine cradle, not the side rail.
7. Wire is to be #9 wire, unlimited amount (Use as much as you want because anyone can get it)
8. Hood MUST be open at inspection– NO EXCEPTIONS! If you bring it wired shut, we WILL cut it open to inspect. Hood must be brought to the inspection line if not attached to car. You MAY use 6 pcs. of 1" all-thread but nuts must have handle for easy removal. The front two hood bolts can go through frame by the core support. The other four must be sheet metal to sheet metal. You may use 2" angle x 4" long in 6 spots for bolting hood and fender together as an option to running all thread to the core support. No other hood support or angle "handles" allowed on the hood. You must remove hood springs or cylinders before running. You may have 6 hold-downs on hood and trunk. Unlimited wire. Hood must cover fan blade or fan taken off, no exceptions. HOOD MUST FIT BETWEEN THE FENDERS LIKE FACTORY. Hood MUST remain in stock position. (Not shifted and bent down to the bumper to protect the radiator.) Holes must be cut in hood for fire extinguishment. (If there are not header holes, a special hole must be cut.)
9. Doors – All doors can be welded shut. Weld CAN be solid on ALL doors. You may also skip weld, chain, or wire them shut as long as it is SECURE. Top of doors may be pinched and welded with no fillers. Outside seams allowed plate up to 4" wide. Inner door seams allowed plate up to 2" wide, may reinforce driver’s door, inside only for safety.
10. Roof - In addition to the doors, the car must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the car a minimum of 24" tall. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the car!!! This is a family show!
11. Trunk – We MUST be able to see inside of trunk compartment. You must have at least a 4" diameter hole in the lid. Trunk lids can be attached 1 of 3 ways:
a.) full weld maximum 3" width material and 3/8" thick and 2 pieces of all-thread to the frame
b.) 6 pieces of up to 1" all-thread 2 to frame, 4 to sheet metal with no weld.
c.) Unlimited #9 wire. (wire allowed with all options.)
Wagon tailgates are considered same as a trunk lid. You may NOT attach the trunk lid to the floor of the trunk. You cannot see under the lid when this is done. The lid must be mounted or removed. The rear deck must be removed on station wagons! Rear hatch cylinders must be removed when applicable. Rear window bar can only attach 2" onto trunk lid, any further and you will cut. Window bar not allowed on wagons.
12. Body Mounts may be taken out or replaced with stacked washers and all thread or bolts NO bigger than 1". Washers used must not be bigger than 4"x 4" and must be free floating, must have spacing, gap must be maintained to fully inspect topside of frame (Not welded to the body or frame). To make it easier, instead of washers, you may leave the original puck, replace the bolts, and torque them down to smash the puck some as long as a space is maintained. The front body mounts may be replaced with all thread that also holds the hood down, but we require that you weld a handle to the hood nuts so we can easily open it without a wrench. You may add (2) body mounts at the driver’s location of choice. Extra body mounts must be welded to or pass through frame. All other body mounts must remain in their stock position unless rust out prevents this and then must be pre-approved. Angle iron is allowed in this location only for ease of use to run wire to. Must be 4"x 4" max. You also may weld a 3"x 3" washer on top of each body mount hole, rusted or not. Factory washer or cut plate allowed no thicker than 3/8". All thread or bolts only allowed to have 4" past each nut at the frame or body level whichever it is securing.
13. Bumpers: You can use ANY factory bumper or bumper shock on ANY model car. 2 bumper shocks max per fame rail, one front & one rear only per side. There must be a minimum 6" gap between bumper shocks and a-arms. You may manufacture your own bumper mounts within these limits (4" max material). If you make a "homemade pointy" you have to have it where it is the same dimensions as factory Chrysler pointy. We will have a template made from a fresh bumper. Anything that doesn't match factory dimensions will have to be cut. No small wedges allowed one's that looks like a wood splitting wedge. Maximum homemade bumper height 6". 6" maximum bumper material, 4" max material on bumper shocks, cannot be stacked. Your mounting is restricted to the rail only and can't bridge across frame rails. In addition to the weld &/or bolts, we also recommend either wiring or chaining the bumper to the frame. You may use a strap to help hold bumper on. It is to be no thicker than 3/8" and no wider than 4" and should not extend past 6" on top of the frame. Bumper strap to top or bottom of frame not both. No kickers from corner of bumper to frame. You are allowed to run a 1/4" spec bumper. Can be up to 1/4" box tubing but must appear like a bumper! Minor "bumper only" reinforcement allowed to extend the life, but must be on the bumper only. No rear bumper brackets on the front of cars. Hard nosing allowed. You are allowed up to 24" of bumper to body welding with no fillers or plates. That is total for front and rear bumpers. Maximum front bumper height is 22" from the ground to the BOTTOM of the bumper. Minimum back bumper height is 16" from the ground to the BOTTOM of the bumper.
14. Frames: There must not be any frame pinning, filling, stuffing, or concrete. You may plate 2 plates 4" x 6" x 3/8" on fresh car in the location of your choice. You may weld a PLATE band-aid NO BIGGER than 4" x 6" x 3/8" to a crack, break, or severe bend in the frame of a pre-ran car or a rusted through section of a fresh car. MUST be able to see the crack or bend for verification. Band-aid must be flat plate, NO angle iron, no bending plate to make angle! Band-aids must not be welded to other band-aids. NO MORE than 6 band-aids on the frame (total) to repair a crack or bend, so if your frame has more damage than that, some cracks will need to let nature take its course! Do not call to see if you can put on a 7th, because you can’t. You may seam weld the frame the entire length. Seam welds should be no more than 1/2" wide. If a portion of the frame needs replaced, you may do so after checking with the head inspector (DON’T get excessive). NO frame pinning. There cannot be any undercoating, paint, or other material on the frame. No grind marks on frame unless approved. A 22" hump plate is allowed but must be one continuous plate. Can be kicked forward, backward or centered as long as it contacts the center of the hump. 3/8" thick on the outside only and must be contoured to the frame. Can be no more than 4" tall.
DI cars will be allowed to cut down their front (a-arm forward). There must be a 6" gap between the plate and the a-arms. These will count as your bumper strap and your 2 fresh plate patches. You will be allowed (4) 4" x 6" x 3/8" band-aid plates anywhere else on visible bends.
a 22" long x 4" wide x 3/8" thick hump plate is allowed. Plate must be continuous and contour to shape of frame. Plate does not have to be centered, as long as one end contacts the center of the hump. Hump plates not allowed on leaf spring conversion cars.
creasing, or reshaping allowed. No welding creased or reshaped areas together. Only welding allowed is on factory frame seams. Hump plates allowed unless excluded by leaf spring rules
15. No Body Plates except to hold the spreader bars in place or to protect driver, but not to exceed 6" past the door seam. You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal of same thickness only! Do not cut rust out-weld 2" beyond rust. You may re-weld factory body seams, but do NOT add any steel other than the weld bead. No weld stacking or filler on anybody or frame bead (except the doors.) No body panel doubling!
16. Skid Plates are allowed but must remain separate for your oil and transmission. No full length skid plates and no bolting & welding it to the frame.
17. Distributor Protectors allowed but must not touch the cage anywhere. Sheet metal only. 6" gap between protector and cage. There can be nothing between, above or below the distributor protector and the dash bar besides the firewall.
18. Tires: No solid Tires (Hyster tires, etc.) Tires MUST contain some air.
19. Window Braces: Car must have a pipe, wire, or plate from the cowl to the roof to prevent the hood from entering car. You may add one to the front & side windows. 2 pieces in each window opening max. Max. Material is 4 x 3/8. All window braces must be outboard of the distributor protector. Windshield bar must mount to roof sheet metal only. This is for your safety, not to reinforce your car
20. Springs: Stock Springs must remain on the car. 4 clamps allowed on each leaf spring, no bigger than 2x4x3/8". You cannot weld the leafs together! Springs must fit inside 3/8" wrench opening. You can wire or bolt the coils to the rear end and weld the leaf brackets to the car. On coil spring cars you may put taller springs in to get height "don't get extreme" but you cannot weld any other material to them or in place of springs. 98-02s- you have 1 of 2 options. 1) you may use the ztr brackets or make your own brackets but must resemble the way it would mount in a 79-97 ford 2) you can cut the package trey out of a older ford and weld in the 98-02 but no doubling of package treys and may cut the brackets off a older ford and re-weld on 98-02 to mount bottom trailing arms.
a) Leaf spring conversions are allowed. Conversions must be done in a factory like manner. All leaf spring cars may have the leaf pack mounted under the frame rail. Under the frame rail mounts must be done with material no larger than 3" x 4" channel. No excessive metal can be used for frame reinforcements. Hump plates not allowed on leaf spring conversion cars.
b) Leaf spring conversion cars and factory leaf cars without hump plates are allowed 8 leaves per pack and must be OEM leafs. Springs must have a 2" stagger. Springs cannot be welded together. Four (4) spring clamps allowed per side.
c) Cars originally equipped with leaf springs, must have stock springs and hangers if running hump plates.
21. Rear-ends can be of CAR origin or can be switched out to 8-lug single wheel rear-end.
22. Chain: You may run 1 chain around each side of the rear end and through the floorboard.
23. Steering System: You may alter your steering column to prevent loss and strengthen your tie rods as long as they function as stock.
24. NO added reinforcement from the core support to the firewall allowed. NO fender or core support reinforcement such as flat stock, angle iron, etc.
25. 03 AND NEWER FORD RULES: all crush zones must remain open and visible. Factory cradle from Ford car only mounted within 2" of factory position. Mandatory ¾" hole at firewall to fully inspect. Bolt in cradle allowed to same dimensions as factory 02 & older crown vic cradles.
26. Solid Suspension is allowed. Must attach directly below or above a-arm not kicked forward or backward to reinforce frame. A-arms can be welded solid with up to 2" straps and only may contact frame 2" beyond a-arm.
27. We strongly suggest that you have roll over protection for Safety!!!
STOCK CLASS
Vigo County Fair Rules For 2016 Fair July 11th & 16th
-Absolutely no: Distributor protectors, radiator guards (other than stock A.C. condenser), tranny
protectors.
Frames:
-No seam welding, pinning, filling, stuffing or painting!!
-You may patch a rust hole on the frame but it cannot be bigger than 4”x6” and it will count as one of
your 4 allowed plates. Must be able to verify it was needed.
-No frame shaping allowed other than 12 inches in the center of the hump. 6 inches in front of axle
centerline and 6 inches behind. If you take it to the point of ripping or tearing the metal you will not be
allowed to weld it back up. That’s your fault not ours.
-The only allowed method of pitching a car is to cold bend it, no exceptions!!
-Pre ran’s will be allowed 4 plates. Plates only allowed on a visible bend or rust hole and cannot be
bigger than a 4”x6”x1/4”. If you go bigger be prepared to cut!!!
-You are allowed to #9 wire the frame rails together in one spot behind the humps. No more than triple
stranded.
Bumper/Bumper Mounting:
-Homemade pointy bumpers must have a tapered point that closely resembles a Chrysler pointy bumper
-Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges.
-Any front bumper bracket may be used on any car. If you choose to, you may make your shocks out of
2”x2” tubing.
-Absolutely no bracket or shock may be welded past 6 inches behind the factory core support mount
hole on the frame rail. If your cars factory shock or bracket goes farther than 6 inches back, it must
remain completely factory beyond the allotted 6 inches.
-If you choose to hard nose or put your shock inside the frame you MUST have a ¾” hole in the top
center of your frame 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. (Unless we
can clearly see the shock stops where it’s supposed to) You may weld a ¾” hardware washer around the
hole to make up for the missing metal. Single pass only!!!
-Suicide Lincolns and cars that have no core support mount must only go 6 inches past the vertical part
of core support right above the frame rail when mounting the bumper.
-Rear bumper brackets may be welded, single pass only. Absolutely no rear bracket may be moved
forward.
Suspension:
- Everything must be factory make for the car. You may upgrade to stiffer/taller coil springs. A-arms and
spindles may be changed but must stay Ford to Ford or GM to GM. No homemade or aftermarket parts.
One exception is 98 and newer Ford cars may do the Watts Link conversion, with ZTR style brackets. No
additional metal may be added other than the brackets themselves.
-Tie rods can be welded up, but no added metal or bracing.
-Steering box swaps are allowed, but absolutely no welding on the frame. Keep the mounts minimal. If
we feel your using your steering box mount to strengthen frame you will not run.
-Aftermarket steering shafts allowed.
-Cars must bounce.
-Rear trail arms cannot be shortened, lengthened, or braced in any way whatsoever. You may weld a
single hardware washer around the rear hole of the upper control arms. Single pass only!!
-Rear end may be chained or wired in one spot per frame rail. Must be straight over the center of the
axle and NOT welded to the frame.
-Factory size, number and stagger will apply to cars with factory leaf springs. You may add 2 clamps in
front of rear axle and 3 in rear. Max of 2 bolts per clamp. Bolts can’t be bigger 3/8” and clamps can only
be 2 inches wide. No welding or duct taping of springs.
Drivetrain:
-Any motor or transmission in any vehicle.
-Engine cradles are allowed, but must not go past the third spark plug from the front. All your basic
Robbo, Big Rock, XXX cradles are allowed.
-If you choose to run a pulley protector, you must remove the sway bar between the frame rails.
-Solid lower engine mounts are allowed. If you need to weld plates under your lower mounts because
they won’t sit on the engine crossmember that’s fine, but they must not be attached to the frame rails.
-If you choose to chain your engine in, the chains must only be attached to the engine and straight down
to engine cross member.
-Skid plates must be just for the pan they are protecting and can’t extend more than a ½” from there
pan.
-You may run an aluminum ultra bell on automatics. Manual transmissions may run a blow proof bell
housing. No additional bolts or welding permitted.
-If you choose to not run the factory transmission cross member you may use 2”x2” tubing instead. It
must mount in factory make and model location. No plates bigger than 4”x4” welded to the frame to
weld your cross member to!!!
-If you’re using a bolt on style transmission mount, it must be an O.E.M. rubber mount. If you choose to
not run a mount you may wrap chain or wire around transmission and cross member to hold it in place.
NO WELDING and only one bolt if you choose the wire or chain route.
-If your car is factory equipped with a floating cross member (example: mid 70’s Fords and 74 and older
Cadillacs) you may add TWO 5/8” bolts and bolt it solid to floor. Washers cannot exceed 4”x4”
diameter!!! This will be extremely strictly enforced!!!
-Slider shafts are allowed.
-Any factory car or truck rear end is allowed. No rear-ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup permitted
and only one wheel per side of rear end. You may weld brackets on the rear end to accommodate the
vehicles factory suspension style. When building brackets for the upper ears you may not go any wider
than 16 inches from center on either side to mount the upper ears. (So 32” total mount area)
-Rear end braces must not be wider than 32” at the widest point.
Cage:
-4 point cages are allowed. Must be a minimum of 6 inches above the factory body mount height.
-4 down legs are allowed to the frame, but must only be located in between the front door inner seams.
-Down legs off of the cage that attach to the body must be no further back than the rear spreader and
no further forward than the front door inner seam.
-Roll over bars must be vertical and no farther back than the rear spreader bar (maximum of 6 inches
behind the seat). You will only be allowed to attach bar to roof with 2 bolts no bigger than 1 inch.
Washers must not exceed 4”x4”.
-Gas tank protectors are allowed but must remain 10 inches from the rear firewall and no more than 30
inches wide, and in the center of the car. It can be bolted to the floor if NOT attached to the cage.
Body Mounts:
-You may replace the 2 body mounts in the core support and the 4 in the trunk pan only!!
-The 2 in the core support may be replaced with 1 inch althread and ran up through the hood. They may
be bolted solid. If you choose to run a spacer between core support and frame it can’t be bigger than
2”x2” tubing and must be free floating.
-The 4 rear body mounts can be bolted solid. 2 of those may have ¾ inch althread ran vertically through
the trunk lid. (Wagons may go vertically through the roof or pillars, but if you do that you may not use 2
pieces to hold the tailgate shut)
-You may weld a 4”x4” washer on top of the core support for the althread to pass through.
-No double nutting or sleeving of the althread.
-Mopars can either go through the frame or welded to the side. Must be on the flat part of the rear
frame under the trunk pan.
- All body mounts washers may not exceed 4”x4” diameter.
-Body mounts from the firewall to the humps may be changed if need be. Only in the factory locations.
The ONLY allowable substitution is to use a bolt no bigger than ½”. You must have the rubber bushing
WITH the steel sleeve and NOT be crushed or you may use a hockey puck. You must use hardware
washers only. NO homemade washers!*
Body:
-Sheet metal may be cut for clearance, but no bending, folding or reattaching anywhere.
-You may use five 3/8” bolts per wheel well opening. Hardware washers only. Absolutely no other
bolting of the body other than the bolts allowed in the hood.
-You’re allowed a maximum of 8 spots of double stranded #9 wire to hold hood and 8 spots of double
stranded #9 wire to hold trunk lid down. You may weld a 1 inch hardware washer around each hole to
keep from tearing. All wire must be body to body only.
-Wagon tailgates may have 8 spots of double stranded 9 wire and 2 pieces of ¾ althread, but the
althread must be through the body only and NOT the frame.
-The only acceptable rust repair on any car is allowed in the driver and passenger area. This is for safety
purposes only, and if we think you used this to strengthen the car for anything other than safety
purposes you will not be allowed to run.
-Doors may be welded solid with strap no bigger than 4”x1/8”. Tops of doors may be folded over and
welded but no added metal. Absolutely no other body seam welding beside doors!!!
-Hood and trunk lid must be open during inspection.
-You may run double stranded number 9 wire from quarter panel to quarter panel in trunk to keep the
quarters from blowing apart. Single hardware washers may be welded around holes only.
-No wedged cars allowed in old school class.
-Sedagons will be allowed but call for allowable tucking methods.
-In addition to the 2 pieces of althread in the core support you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the
hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double
stranded #9 wire in 8 spots. It must be body to body only.
-No more than ten 3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
-You will be allowed 4 spots of double stranded #9 wire from your hood/core support to your front
bumper.
-Body creasing is allowed, but absolutely no bolting or welding to assist.
Trucks
Vigo County Fair Rules For 2016 Fair July 11th & 16th
Trucks will follow all safety rules and regulations posted in the General Rules section.
Below you will find a list of the options you have to build a truck if you choose to alter the stock
configurations. We absolutely will not work with a driver to get a truck into the show. Do not read these
rules trying to find grey areas and do not read between the lines because you are only setting yourself
up to be pissed. We will enforce these rules very, very strictly and the Head Inspector’s say is final!
Absolutely no: Distributor protectors, radiator guards (other than stock A.C. condenser), tranny
protectors, or tranny case modifications. Also, absolutely no rear end bracing!!!
Frame:
-No pinning, plating, filling, stuffing or painting; other than what is allowed in our rules.
-Frame may be seam welded. Single pass only.
-Pre-rans are allowed 4 plates. Plates are only allowed on a visible bend and cannot be bigger than 4”x8”
max.
Bumper/Bumper Mounting:
-Homemade pointy bumpers must have a tapered point that closely resembles a Chrysler pointy bumper
-Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges.
-Any front bumper bracket may be used on any truck. If you choose to, you may make your shocks out
of 2”x2” tubing.
-Absolutely no bracket or shock may be welded past 6 inches behind the factory core support mount
hole on the frame rail. If your trucks factory shock or bracket goes farther than 6 inches back, it must
remain completely factory beyond the allotted 6 inches.
-Bumper height is a maximum of 28 inches to the bottom of the front bumper and a minimum of 18
inches to the bottom of the rear bumper.
Suspension:
-Front suspensions may be converted from coil spring design to leaf spring design. Keep the leaf springs
mounts minimal. Do not use them to strengthen the frame.
-Tie rods can be welded up but no additional metal can be added.
-You may add 2 clamps in front of the axle and 3 behind the axle. Max of 2 bolts per clamp. Bolts can’t
be bigger than 3/8” and clamps can only be 2” wide. No duct tape or welding on the springs.
-Aftermarket steering shafts are allowed.
-Solid front suspensions are allowed but do not use this to strengthen the frame or you will need to cut
it in order to run.
Drivetrain:
-Any motor or transmission in any vehicle.
-Pulley protectors allowed but the sway bar must be removed if there is a possibility of it coming in
contact with the pulley protector.
-Skid plates allowed but can’t extend more than a ½” from the pan they are protecting.
-Solid lower engine mounts are allowed.
-No transmission case modifications.
-Slider shafts are allowed.
-No rear ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup. If running a dually rear end you may only run one wheel
per side. No rear end bracing.
Cage:
-4 point cage allowed and highly recommended.
-Gas tank protectors allowed and is not to extend more than 36 inches from the front of the bed, but
can be full width of the bed.
Body:
-Doors may be welded solid and cab can be welded to bed. (please do both!!!)
-All body bolts can be replaced and bolted solid with no bolts bigger than ¾”. Only exception is you may
use 1” althread in the core support and run it up through the hood. 4”x4” maximum body mount washer
size.
-In addition to the 2 pieces of althread in the core support, you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the
hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double
stranded #9 wire in 8 spots. It must be body to body only.
-You may also run double stranded #9 wire from the front bumper to the hood or core support in 4
places only.*
-No more than 10 3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
-Tailgates may be welded solid.
-You may fold bedsides over from the wheel wells back and tailgate may be folded over. If you choose to
do so it may only be attached to bed floor with 8 double strands of number 9 wire.
-If you choose to “tuck” a suburban or other long roof vehicle you may only attach the roof to quarter
panels with 8 spots of double stranded 9 wire. Body to body only!!
-Five 3/8” bolts per wheel well. Hardware washers only.
-The only acceptable rust repair is in the cab floor and front of bed where gas tank mounts. This is for
safety purposes only. If you don’t follow this you simply will not run.
Compact
Vigo County Fair 2016 Rules for July 11th & 16th
-All compact vehicles will follow the same safety rules and regulations listed in the general
rule section.
-105” wheel base. NO EXCEPTIONS!!!
. No full framed vehicles .
-No V8 engines allowed in compact .
Below you will find the list of options you have to build a car, if you choose to alter the stock
configurations. We absolutely will not work with a driver to get a car into the show. Do not read these
rules trying to find grey areas and do not read between the lines because you are only setting yourself
up to be pissed. We will enforce these rules very, very strictly and the Head Inspector’s say is final!
-Absolutely no engine/trans protectors, radiator protectors (other than a stock A.C. condenser, or any
other homemade parts to make a vehicle stronger. You will be allowed a gas tank protector but it must
not touch the firewall and no wider than 30 inches. If running a minivan your gas tank and/or gas tank
protector may be no farther than 36” from the rear spreader bar at any point.
-All suspension must be factory make/model for the vehicle.
-4 point cage is strongly recommended. You may run 4 downlegs to the body or the frame but these
must remain in between the front door inner seams.
-You may replace the core support mounts with ¾” althread and run them up through the hood. No
sleeving is allowed. If your vehicle doesn’t have mounts, the althread must be welded to the backside of
the core support. You may also run 2 pieces of ¾” althread through the trunk lid. They may be welded to
the side of the frame. They must be placed on the flat part of the trunk pan and ran vertical.
-Doors and trunk lid may be welded solid with 4”x1/8” strap. No stacking or overlapping. Must have a
12” inspection hole in trunk lid!!! If you choose not to weld trunk you may use 8 double stranded spots
of #9 wire but must be body to body only. Hoods may have 8 spots of double stranded 9 wire. 1”
hardware washers may be welded around the holes for the wire to pass through.
-Five 3/8” bolts with hardware washers only per wheel well.
-No more than ten 3/8” bolts to bolt the outer hood skin to the inner hood skin.
-Any O.E.M. bumper may be used and it may be loaded on the inside if you choose.
-Homemade bumper brackets are allowed but no bigger than 2”x2” tubing. You may not weld or bolt
past 6” behind the factory core support mount hole. If your vehicle doesn’t have a core support mount
we will measure from the vertical part of core support directly above the frame rail. We don’t want
bumpers falling off!!
-Absolutely no welding besides what is stated in the rules.
-The only acceptable rust repair is for your feet, seat, gas tank, tranny cooler and battery box. Don’t get
carried away or you won’t run!!
-Pre-rans will be allowed 4 plates on visible bends, 4”x6”x1/4” max size.
-All factory frame and body seams can be welded solid. Single pass and no added metal.*
-Front suspensions may be locked. If you need to weld strap to your frame in order to do so, keep it
minimal. If we feel you are using it to strengthen your frame you will need to cut it in order to run.
-In addition to the 2 pieces of althread in the core support you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the
hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double
stranded #9 wire in 8 spots. It must be body to body only.
-You may also run double stranded #9 wire from the front bumper to the hood or core support in 4
places only.
MIDSIZE CLASS + FWD/MINIVANS
-All compact and mid-size vehicles will follow the same safety rules and regulations listed in the general rule section.
105 1/16th" wheelbase and bigger will be in the mid-size class.
-MINIVANS will be allowed to participate in the mid-size class. No full framed vehicles or rear-wheel drives
-No mini trucks or V8 engines allowed
-Absolutely no engine/trans protectors, radiator protectors (other than a stock A.C. condenser), or any other homemade parts to make a vehicle stronger. You will be allowed a gas tank protector but it must not touch the firewall and no wider than 30 inches. If running a minivan your gas tank and/or gas tank protector may be no farther than 36" from the rear spreader bar at any point.
-All suspension must be factory make/model for the vehicle.
-4 point cage is strongly recommended. You may run 4 down legs to the body or the frame but these must remain in between the front door inner seams.
-You may replace the core support mounts with ¾" allthread and run them up through the hood. No sleeving is allowed. If your vehicle doesn’t have mounts, the allthread must be welded to the backside of the core support. You may also run 2 pieces of ¾" allthread through the trunk lid. They may be welded to the side of the frame. They must be placed on the flat part of the trunk pan and ran vertical.
-Doors and trunk lid may be welded solid with 4"x1/8" strap. No stacking or overlapping. Must have a 12" inspection hole in trunk lid!!! 1" hardware washers may be welded around the holes for the wire to pass through. Unlimited wire.
-Five 3/8" bolts with hardware washers only per wheel well.
-No more than ten 3/8" bolts to bolt the outer hood skin to the inner hood skin.
-Any O.E.M. bumper may be used and it may be loaded on the inside if you choose. Homemade Bumpers: You are allowed to run a 1/4" spec bumper. Can be up to 1/4" box tubing but must appear like a bumper! Minor "bumper only" reinforcement allowed to extend the life of the bumper. No rear brackets on front of cars
-Homemade bumper brackets are allowed but no bigger than 2"x2" tubing. You may not weld or bolt past 6" behind the factory core support mount hole. If your vehicle doesn’t have a core support mount we will measure from the vertical part of core support directly above the frame rail. We don’t want bumpers falling off!!
-Absolutely no welding besides what is stated in the rules.
-The only acceptable rust repair is for your feet, seat, gas tank, tranny cooler and battery box. Don’t get carried away or you won’t run!!
-Pre-rans will be allowed 4 plates on visible bends, 4"x6"x1/4" max size.
-All factory frame and body seams can be welded solid. Single pass and no added metal.*
-Front suspensions may be locked. If you need to weld strap to your frame in order to do so, keep it minimal. If we feel you are using it to strengthen your frame you will need to cut it in order to run
-In addition to the 2 pieces of allthread in the core support you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down.
Unlimited Wire
We MUST have roll over protection for Safety!!!
Contact Dave @ 812-243-7374 for an and all questions!
JULY 10TH AND 15TH OF 2017
Any DRIVER under the influence of alcohol or drugs will be DISQUALIFIED AND REMOVED from PREMISES WITH ENTRY FEE FORFEITED. Alcoholic beverages WILL NOT BE ALLOWED ON THE PROPERTY! All
vehicles entering the pits will be searched! If you don’t want your vehicle to be searched, don’t park in the pits. Anyone caught with alcohol on the fairgrounds will be removed and NO refunds will be given!
Each driver must fill out an entry form at the back gate the day of the derby. Each driver must supply his or her own vehicle and only ONE entry per class per driver.
Drivers must be 16 years or older to enter. Drivers under the age of 18 MUST have a parent or guardian sign a waiver. Driver will receive a pit pass upon registration for the derby on the day of the derby. If vehicle does not pass inspection, the owner will have to pay for a pit pass if he or she wants to remain in the pit area.
Nobody allowed on the track except the drivers, officials and emergency personnel. NO EXCEPTIONS!
Any driver or crew member disobeying the rules will cause his or her vehicle to be disqualified. Drivers are responsible for the actions of their crew.
The Vigo County Fair will not be held responsible for any vehicles or personal property before, during and after the show.
A 5 mph pit speed will be enforced. No hot-rodding, donuts, or other unsafe driving will be tolerated. KID FRIENDLY PIT AREA. These practices can be grounds for disqualification with entry fee forfeited.
Any altercations between drivers, crew, or officials will be grounds for disqualifications and possibly being barred from future derbies.
If a driver exits their vehicle during a green flag for any reason other than fire or injury he or she will be disqualified, also if vehicle moves during a red flag.
It is the Driver who qualifies, not the car
The Vigo County Fair reserves the right to accept or reject any or all entries.
DECISIONS OF OFFICIALS ARE FINAL!!!!!
GENERAL RULES:1. THESE RULES ARE A GUIDELINE THAT SPECIFIES WHAT WE WILL ALLOW, IT DOES NOT SPECIFY WHAT WE WILL NOT ALLOW. IF NOT LISTED HERE, CALL BEFORE YOU DO IT. DO NOT COME UP
TO US AT THE DERBY AND ASK US TO SHOW YOU IN THE RULES WHERE IT STATES THAT BECAUSE IT DOESN’T NEED TO. CALL FIRST!!!
2. If you’re under 18, you must have a signed consent form from a parent/legal guardian.
3. Due to a fair ordinance, there is NO ALCOHOL allowed on the fairgrounds. Coolers will be inspected! You WILL forfeit any alcohol found and will lose it! No firearms, knives, or weapons of any kind will be allowed.
4. DOT approved helmet MUST be worn while on the track. Eye Protection is required. Long Sleeve Shirt must be worn.
5. Car must have working seat belts for the driver & passenger & must be worn during the race.
6. An idle zone will be strictly enforced in ALL areas of the pits. Violators will be subject to grounds removal or arrest.
7. If you are using a torch, you must have a fire extinguisher with you.
8. NO gangbanging & NO sandbagging! – If you don’t know what this is, you better ask.
9. Must make contact within 60 seconds if you are having mechanical problems or hung up, otherwise, you must make AGGRESSIVE contact!!! We use our own discretion for this rule. If a driver is really hitting well, he may get more time, if a driver is love tapping, he may get less, so get used to it. Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door as a defense will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show. Put one on for them!
10. One (1) warning for driver’s door contact, 2nd time you are eliminated! Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rule. If you do it repeatedly, you will be disqualified.
11. One (1) fire is allowed in the engine compartment, second fire you are disqualified. One (1) fire in passenger compartment and you will be disqualified. If a door comes open you are disqualified.
12. NO fighting will be tolerated and may result in automatic arrest
13. If you are caught cheating, you get NOTHING back, so don’t ask!!!
14. Please take all scrap with you! All items (including vehicles) left in the park the next day WILL BECOME PROPERTY OF THE VIGO COUNTY FAIR.
15. Nobody on the track except the drivers, officials, and emergency personnel. NO EXCEPTIONS!
16. ALL drivers must attend the drivers meeting – ANY controversies must be brought up at the drivers meeting or not at all!
17. Cars MUST be painted tastefully! No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material allowed on the car, including numbers, also NO SOLID BLACK CARS!!! This is a family show! If you don’t know what this means, call!
18. THE FINAL 5 FEATURE WINNERS MAY BE FULLY INSPECTED AFTER THE SHOW BY THE OFFICIALS! We reserve the right to cut or drill anything in question at anytime. Failure to allow this will result in disqualification.
19. $100 TO PROTEST A CAR. Only other drivers from that particular heat are able to protest a car & the driver MUST have the cash in hand in order to protest. At the time of protest, BOTH the protested car AND the
car owned by the protester WILL be re-inspected. The ONLY people that may be present during the re-inspection of the protested car is the inspection crew, the driver of the protested car & the protester. NO other people may be within 50’ of the re-inspection. If the car passes the inspection, the “protested” driver will receive the $100. However, if anything illegal is found, the $100 goes back to the Protester.
20. All drivers' must keep their hands inside the car at all times! If we see you driving with your hand on your door we will stop the race once, next time you're out. We want everyone to leave with all the body parts they came with!
21. All glass, plastic, chrome, wheel weights, and loose debris must be removed from the car. All hitches must be removed. The stock gas tank MUST be removed.
22. No concrete anywhere on the car.
23. No hearses, taxis, limousines, x-frames, or convertible frames.
24. Front doors should be painted white to help us cut down on door hits. If your door is not white – don’t whine if we don’t see a door hit on your car. Numbers clearly painted with no offensive numbers allowed.
25. Horn must be removed or NOT used during the race! Subject to disqualification if used.
26. Driver only must bring car to inspection unless pre-approved by head official.
27. SAFETY FIRST: No unsafe practices like protruding all thread, radiator drain hoses pointed at people, and teeth cut into the bumpers, etc. If a bumper or something comes loose during the race and appears to be a safety concern, we reserve the right to act and correct it.
28. In addition to the doors, the car must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the car a minimum of 24” tall. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the car!!! This is a family show!
29.ENGINE / TRANSMISSION MUST BE ISOLATED FROM THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT WITH STEEL, FIRE BLANKET, RUBBER, OR APPROVED FIRE RESISTANT MATERIAL IF FIREWALL / FLOORBOARDS ARE MODIFIED.
30. Once again, OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL, so if unsure if you can do something, please call ahead.
31. You must have roll over protection for Safety!!!
*****All imperials allowed in mod class only. Please read over all rules, many changes have been made to help promoter and builder, even though rules are really similar make sure you read rules below to ensure you're up to spec.*****
MODIFIED RULES:
***NEW RULE LEAF CONVERSION ALLOWED***
CAGE **REQUIRED Spreader bar must be at least channel, square tubing, or pipe, NO thin wall material! Car must have REQUIRED door protection for driver. Minimum required 4 point cage. Front cage bar (dash bar) must be straight across front of car and maintain the 6" gap to the distributor protector. You are allowed two down bars per side that may attach to the frame. Cage must go no further back than the front edge of the rear wheel humps. Down legs in rear must go to flat part of frame only. There may also be 1 rollover loop that can be attached to the bar behind the seat and go straight up over the exterior side of the roof. Cage may have 4 down legs, 3 spreader bars and 2 door bars.
1. Battery must be moved inside the passenger compartment and tightly fastened with a cover. You may use 2 automotive batteries or 1 large marine battery.
2. Gas Tank must be mounted inside the passenger compartment, tightly secured, and covered. Plastic tanks must be in a solid metal containment box & covered or you will not be allowed to participate. No exceptions. (We strongly recommend metal tanks!). Absolutely NO stock fuel lines. Secure new fuel line properly inside of the driver’s compartment, not underneath car. Keep away from exhaust. Gas tank protectors must be mounted to the cage or the floor pan, not both. Gas tank protector if on cage must be a "halo" type bar only, no gap required between protector and cage if floor mounted and not connected to sheet metal in any way (bolted or welded). Electric fuel pumps must be double clamped and covered. NO electronic fuel pumps without a full cutoff switch.
3. Battery and Gas Tank must be in separate areas and covered (Not next to each other) OR in separate containment boxes.
4. Brakes must be working – be prepared to demonstrate. Violators will not be allowed to participate if this occurs before or during the events.
5. We will allow 1 transmission cooler and 1 engine cooler.
a) Transmission coolers must be near floor level or contained. Steel or high pressure lines only.
b) Transmission cross member allowed up to 3" x 3" x ¼" material, 6 inches along mounting on the frame
6. Radiators must remain in stock position with no reinforcement. Radiators must remain in stock position, radiator guards allowed but must be thin material and not be reinforcing to the overall structure of the car. Engines must be mounted with the #1 spark plug being lined up with the ball joint and/or strut, no farther back! Engine mounting chains may be bolted or welded but only to engine cradle, not the side rail.
7. Wire is to be #9 wire, unlimited amount (Use as much as you want because anyone can get it)
8. Hood MUST be open at inspection– NO EXCEPTIONS! If you bring it wired shut, we WILL cut it open to inspect. Hood must be brought to the inspection line if not attached to car. You MAY use 6 pcs. of 1" all-thread but nuts must have handle for easy removal. The front two hood bolts can go through frame by the core support. The other four must be sheet metal to sheet metal. You may use 2" angle x 4" long in 6 spots for bolting hood and fender together as an option to running all thread to the core support. No other hood support or angle "handles" allowed on the hood. You must remove hood springs or cylinders before running. You may have 6 hold-downs on hood and trunk. Unlimited wire. Hood must cover fan blade or fan taken off, no exceptions. HOOD MUST FIT BETWEEN THE FENDERS LIKE FACTORY. Hood MUST remain in stock position. (Not shifted and bent down to the bumper to protect the radiator.) Holes must be cut in hood for fire extinguishment. (If there are not header holes, a special hole must be cut.)
9. Doors – All doors can be welded shut. Weld CAN be solid on ALL doors. You may also skip weld, chain, or wire them shut as long as it is SECURE. Top of doors may be pinched and welded with no fillers. Outside seams allowed plate up to 4" wide. Inner door seams allowed plate up to 2" wide, may reinforce driver’s door, inside only for safety.
10. Roof - In addition to the doors, the car must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the car a minimum of 24" tall. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the car!!! This is a family show!
11. Trunk – We MUST be able to see inside of trunk compartment. You must have at least a 4" diameter hole in the lid. Trunk lids can be attached 1 of 3 ways:
a.) full weld maximum 3" width material and 3/8" thick and 2 pieces of all-thread to the frame
b.) 6 pieces of up to 1" all-thread 2 to frame, 4 to sheet metal with no weld.
c.) Unlimited #9 wire. (wire allowed with all options.)
Wagon tailgates are considered same as a trunk lid. You may NOT attach the trunk lid to the floor of the trunk. You cannot see under the lid when this is done. The lid must be mounted or removed. The rear deck must be removed on station wagons! Rear hatch cylinders must be removed when applicable. Rear window bar can only attach 2" onto trunk lid, any further and you will cut. Window bar not allowed on wagons.
12. Body Mounts may be taken out or replaced with stacked washers and all thread or bolts NO bigger than 1". Washers used must not be bigger than 4"x 4" and must be free floating, must have spacing, gap must be maintained to fully inspect topside of frame (Not welded to the body or frame). To make it easier, instead of washers, you may leave the original puck, replace the bolts, and torque them down to smash the puck some as long as a space is maintained. The front body mounts may be replaced with all thread that also holds the hood down, but we require that you weld a handle to the hood nuts so we can easily open it without a wrench. You may add (2) body mounts at the driver’s location of choice. Extra body mounts must be welded to or pass through frame. All other body mounts must remain in their stock position unless rust out prevents this and then must be pre-approved. Angle iron is allowed in this location only for ease of use to run wire to. Must be 4"x 4" max. You also may weld a 3"x 3" washer on top of each body mount hole, rusted or not. Factory washer or cut plate allowed no thicker than 3/8". All thread or bolts only allowed to have 4" past each nut at the frame or body level whichever it is securing.
13. Bumpers: You can use ANY factory bumper or bumper shock on ANY model car. 2 bumper shocks max per fame rail, one front & one rear only per side. There must be a minimum 6" gap between bumper shocks and a-arms. You may manufacture your own bumper mounts within these limits (4" max material). If you make a "homemade pointy" you have to have it where it is the same dimensions as factory Chrysler pointy. We will have a template made from a fresh bumper. Anything that doesn't match factory dimensions will have to be cut. No small wedges allowed one's that looks like a wood splitting wedge. Maximum homemade bumper height 6". 6" maximum bumper material, 4" max material on bumper shocks, cannot be stacked. Your mounting is restricted to the rail only and can't bridge across frame rails. In addition to the weld &/or bolts, we also recommend either wiring or chaining the bumper to the frame. You may use a strap to help hold bumper on. It is to be no thicker than 3/8" and no wider than 4" and should not extend past 6" on top of the frame. Bumper strap to top or bottom of frame not both. No kickers from corner of bumper to frame. You are allowed to run a 1/4" spec bumper. Can be up to 1/4" box tubing but must appear like a bumper! Minor "bumper only" reinforcement allowed to extend the life, but must be on the bumper only. No rear bumper brackets on the front of cars. Hard nosing allowed. You are allowed up to 24" of bumper to body welding with no fillers or plates. That is total for front and rear bumpers. Maximum front bumper height is 22" from the ground to the BOTTOM of the bumper. Minimum back bumper height is 16" from the ground to the BOTTOM of the bumper.
14. Frames: There must not be any frame pinning, filling, stuffing, or concrete. You may plate 2 plates 4" x 6" x 3/8" on fresh car in the location of your choice. You may weld a PLATE band-aid NO BIGGER than 4" x 6" x 3/8" to a crack, break, or severe bend in the frame of a pre-ran car or a rusted through section of a fresh car. MUST be able to see the crack or bend for verification. Band-aid must be flat plate, NO angle iron, no bending plate to make angle! Band-aids must not be welded to other band-aids. NO MORE than 6 band-aids on the frame (total) to repair a crack or bend, so if your frame has more damage than that, some cracks will need to let nature take its course! Do not call to see if you can put on a 7th, because you can’t. You may seam weld the frame the entire length. Seam welds should be no more than 1/2" wide. If a portion of the frame needs replaced, you may do so after checking with the head inspector (DON’T get excessive). NO frame pinning. There cannot be any undercoating, paint, or other material on the frame. No grind marks on frame unless approved. A 22" hump plate is allowed but must be one continuous plate. Can be kicked forward, backward or centered as long as it contacts the center of the hump. 3/8" thick on the outside only and must be contoured to the frame. Can be no more than 4" tall.
DI cars will be allowed to cut down their front (a-arm forward). There must be a 6" gap between the plate and the a-arms. These will count as your bumper strap and your 2 fresh plate patches. You will be allowed (4) 4" x 6" x 3/8" band-aid plates anywhere else on visible bends.
a 22" long x 4" wide x 3/8" thick hump plate is allowed. Plate must be continuous and contour to shape of frame. Plate does not have to be centered, as long as one end contacts the center of the hump. Hump plates not allowed on leaf spring conversion cars.
creasing, or reshaping allowed. No welding creased or reshaped areas together. Only welding allowed is on factory frame seams. Hump plates allowed unless excluded by leaf spring rules
15. No Body Plates except to hold the spreader bars in place or to protect driver, but not to exceed 6" past the door seam. You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal of same thickness only! Do not cut rust out-weld 2" beyond rust. You may re-weld factory body seams, but do NOT add any steel other than the weld bead. No weld stacking or filler on anybody or frame bead (except the doors.) No body panel doubling!
16. Skid Plates are allowed but must remain separate for your oil and transmission. No full length skid plates and no bolting & welding it to the frame.
17. Distributor Protectors allowed but must not touch the cage anywhere. Sheet metal only. 6" gap between protector and cage. There can be nothing between, above or below the distributor protector and the dash bar besides the firewall.
18. Tires: No solid Tires (Hyster tires, etc.) Tires MUST contain some air.
19. Window Braces: Car must have a pipe, wire, or plate from the cowl to the roof to prevent the hood from entering car. You may add one to the front & side windows. 2 pieces in each window opening max. Max. Material is 4 x 3/8. All window braces must be outboard of the distributor protector. Windshield bar must mount to roof sheet metal only. This is for your safety, not to reinforce your car
20. Springs: Stock Springs must remain on the car. 4 clamps allowed on each leaf spring, no bigger than 2x4x3/8". You cannot weld the leafs together! Springs must fit inside 3/8" wrench opening. You can wire or bolt the coils to the rear end and weld the leaf brackets to the car. On coil spring cars you may put taller springs in to get height "don't get extreme" but you cannot weld any other material to them or in place of springs. 98-02s- you have 1 of 2 options. 1) you may use the ztr brackets or make your own brackets but must resemble the way it would mount in a 79-97 ford 2) you can cut the package trey out of a older ford and weld in the 98-02 but no doubling of package treys and may cut the brackets off a older ford and re-weld on 98-02 to mount bottom trailing arms.
a) Leaf spring conversions are allowed. Conversions must be done in a factory like manner. All leaf spring cars may have the leaf pack mounted under the frame rail. Under the frame rail mounts must be done with material no larger than 3" x 4" channel. No excessive metal can be used for frame reinforcements. Hump plates not allowed on leaf spring conversion cars.
b) Leaf spring conversion cars and factory leaf cars without hump plates are allowed 8 leaves per pack and must be OEM leafs. Springs must have a 2" stagger. Springs cannot be welded together. Four (4) spring clamps allowed per side.
c) Cars originally equipped with leaf springs, must have stock springs and hangers if running hump plates.
21. Rear-ends can be of CAR origin or can be switched out to 8-lug single wheel rear-end.
22. Chain: You may run 1 chain around each side of the rear end and through the floorboard.
23. Steering System: You may alter your steering column to prevent loss and strengthen your tie rods as long as they function as stock.
24. NO added reinforcement from the core support to the firewall allowed. NO fender or core support reinforcement such as flat stock, angle iron, etc.
25. 03 AND NEWER FORD RULES: all crush zones must remain open and visible. Factory cradle from Ford car only mounted within 2" of factory position. Mandatory ¾" hole at firewall to fully inspect. Bolt in cradle allowed to same dimensions as factory 02 & older crown vic cradles.
26. Solid Suspension is allowed. Must attach directly below or above a-arm not kicked forward or backward to reinforce frame. A-arms can be welded solid with up to 2" straps and only may contact frame 2" beyond a-arm.
27. We strongly suggest that you have roll over protection for Safety!!!
STOCK CLASS
Vigo County Fair Rules For 2016 Fair July 11th & 16th
-Absolutely no: Distributor protectors, radiator guards (other than stock A.C. condenser), tranny
protectors.
Frames:
-No seam welding, pinning, filling, stuffing or painting!!
-You may patch a rust hole on the frame but it cannot be bigger than 4”x6” and it will count as one of
your 4 allowed plates. Must be able to verify it was needed.
-No frame shaping allowed other than 12 inches in the center of the hump. 6 inches in front of axle
centerline and 6 inches behind. If you take it to the point of ripping or tearing the metal you will not be
allowed to weld it back up. That’s your fault not ours.
-The only allowed method of pitching a car is to cold bend it, no exceptions!!
-Pre ran’s will be allowed 4 plates. Plates only allowed on a visible bend or rust hole and cannot be
bigger than a 4”x6”x1/4”. If you go bigger be prepared to cut!!!
-You are allowed to #9 wire the frame rails together in one spot behind the humps. No more than triple
stranded.
Bumper/Bumper Mounting:
-Homemade pointy bumpers must have a tapered point that closely resembles a Chrysler pointy bumper
-Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges.
-Any front bumper bracket may be used on any car. If you choose to, you may make your shocks out of
2”x2” tubing.
-Absolutely no bracket or shock may be welded past 6 inches behind the factory core support mount
hole on the frame rail. If your cars factory shock or bracket goes farther than 6 inches back, it must
remain completely factory beyond the allotted 6 inches.
-If you choose to hard nose or put your shock inside the frame you MUST have a ¾” hole in the top
center of your frame 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. (Unless we
can clearly see the shock stops where it’s supposed to) You may weld a ¾” hardware washer around the
hole to make up for the missing metal. Single pass only!!!
-Suicide Lincolns and cars that have no core support mount must only go 6 inches past the vertical part
of core support right above the frame rail when mounting the bumper.
-Rear bumper brackets may be welded, single pass only. Absolutely no rear bracket may be moved
forward.
Suspension:
- Everything must be factory make for the car. You may upgrade to stiffer/taller coil springs. A-arms and
spindles may be changed but must stay Ford to Ford or GM to GM. No homemade or aftermarket parts.
One exception is 98 and newer Ford cars may do the Watts Link conversion, with ZTR style brackets. No
additional metal may be added other than the brackets themselves.
-Tie rods can be welded up, but no added metal or bracing.
-Steering box swaps are allowed, but absolutely no welding on the frame. Keep the mounts minimal. If
we feel your using your steering box mount to strengthen frame you will not run.
-Aftermarket steering shafts allowed.
-Cars must bounce.
-Rear trail arms cannot be shortened, lengthened, or braced in any way whatsoever. You may weld a
single hardware washer around the rear hole of the upper control arms. Single pass only!!
-Rear end may be chained or wired in one spot per frame rail. Must be straight over the center of the
axle and NOT welded to the frame.
-Factory size, number and stagger will apply to cars with factory leaf springs. You may add 2 clamps in
front of rear axle and 3 in rear. Max of 2 bolts per clamp. Bolts can’t be bigger 3/8” and clamps can only
be 2 inches wide. No welding or duct taping of springs.
Drivetrain:
-Any motor or transmission in any vehicle.
-Engine cradles are allowed, but must not go past the third spark plug from the front. All your basic
Robbo, Big Rock, XXX cradles are allowed.
-If you choose to run a pulley protector, you must remove the sway bar between the frame rails.
-Solid lower engine mounts are allowed. If you need to weld plates under your lower mounts because
they won’t sit on the engine crossmember that’s fine, but they must not be attached to the frame rails.
-If you choose to chain your engine in, the chains must only be attached to the engine and straight down
to engine cross member.
-Skid plates must be just for the pan they are protecting and can’t extend more than a ½” from there
pan.
-You may run an aluminum ultra bell on automatics. Manual transmissions may run a blow proof bell
housing. No additional bolts or welding permitted.
-If you choose to not run the factory transmission cross member you may use 2”x2” tubing instead. It
must mount in factory make and model location. No plates bigger than 4”x4” welded to the frame to
weld your cross member to!!!
-If you’re using a bolt on style transmission mount, it must be an O.E.M. rubber mount. If you choose to
not run a mount you may wrap chain or wire around transmission and cross member to hold it in place.
NO WELDING and only one bolt if you choose the wire or chain route.
-If your car is factory equipped with a floating cross member (example: mid 70’s Fords and 74 and older
Cadillacs) you may add TWO 5/8” bolts and bolt it solid to floor. Washers cannot exceed 4”x4”
diameter!!! This will be extremely strictly enforced!!!
-Slider shafts are allowed.
-Any factory car or truck rear end is allowed. No rear-ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup permitted
and only one wheel per side of rear end. You may weld brackets on the rear end to accommodate the
vehicles factory suspension style. When building brackets for the upper ears you may not go any wider
than 16 inches from center on either side to mount the upper ears. (So 32” total mount area)
-Rear end braces must not be wider than 32” at the widest point.
Cage:
-4 point cages are allowed. Must be a minimum of 6 inches above the factory body mount height.
-4 down legs are allowed to the frame, but must only be located in between the front door inner seams.
-Down legs off of the cage that attach to the body must be no further back than the rear spreader and
no further forward than the front door inner seam.
-Roll over bars must be vertical and no farther back than the rear spreader bar (maximum of 6 inches
behind the seat). You will only be allowed to attach bar to roof with 2 bolts no bigger than 1 inch.
Washers must not exceed 4”x4”.
-Gas tank protectors are allowed but must remain 10 inches from the rear firewall and no more than 30
inches wide, and in the center of the car. It can be bolted to the floor if NOT attached to the cage.
Body Mounts:
-You may replace the 2 body mounts in the core support and the 4 in the trunk pan only!!
-The 2 in the core support may be replaced with 1 inch althread and ran up through the hood. They may
be bolted solid. If you choose to run a spacer between core support and frame it can’t be bigger than
2”x2” tubing and must be free floating.
-The 4 rear body mounts can be bolted solid. 2 of those may have ¾ inch althread ran vertically through
the trunk lid. (Wagons may go vertically through the roof or pillars, but if you do that you may not use 2
pieces to hold the tailgate shut)
-You may weld a 4”x4” washer on top of the core support for the althread to pass through.
-No double nutting or sleeving of the althread.
-Mopars can either go through the frame or welded to the side. Must be on the flat part of the rear
frame under the trunk pan.
- All body mounts washers may not exceed 4”x4” diameter.
-Body mounts from the firewall to the humps may be changed if need be. Only in the factory locations.
The ONLY allowable substitution is to use a bolt no bigger than ½”. You must have the rubber bushing
WITH the steel sleeve and NOT be crushed or you may use a hockey puck. You must use hardware
washers only. NO homemade washers!*
Body:
-Sheet metal may be cut for clearance, but no bending, folding or reattaching anywhere.
-You may use five 3/8” bolts per wheel well opening. Hardware washers only. Absolutely no other
bolting of the body other than the bolts allowed in the hood.
-You’re allowed a maximum of 8 spots of double stranded #9 wire to hold hood and 8 spots of double
stranded #9 wire to hold trunk lid down. You may weld a 1 inch hardware washer around each hole to
keep from tearing. All wire must be body to body only.
-Wagon tailgates may have 8 spots of double stranded 9 wire and 2 pieces of ¾ althread, but the
althread must be through the body only and NOT the frame.
-The only acceptable rust repair on any car is allowed in the driver and passenger area. This is for safety
purposes only, and if we think you used this to strengthen the car for anything other than safety
purposes you will not be allowed to run.
-Doors may be welded solid with strap no bigger than 4”x1/8”. Tops of doors may be folded over and
welded but no added metal. Absolutely no other body seam welding beside doors!!!
-Hood and trunk lid must be open during inspection.
-You may run double stranded number 9 wire from quarter panel to quarter panel in trunk to keep the
quarters from blowing apart. Single hardware washers may be welded around holes only.
-No wedged cars allowed in old school class.
-Sedagons will be allowed but call for allowable tucking methods.
-In addition to the 2 pieces of althread in the core support you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the
hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double
stranded #9 wire in 8 spots. It must be body to body only.
-No more than ten 3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
-You will be allowed 4 spots of double stranded #9 wire from your hood/core support to your front
bumper.
-Body creasing is allowed, but absolutely no bolting or welding to assist.
Trucks
Vigo County Fair Rules For 2016 Fair July 11th & 16th
Trucks will follow all safety rules and regulations posted in the General Rules section.
Below you will find a list of the options you have to build a truck if you choose to alter the stock
configurations. We absolutely will not work with a driver to get a truck into the show. Do not read these
rules trying to find grey areas and do not read between the lines because you are only setting yourself
up to be pissed. We will enforce these rules very, very strictly and the Head Inspector’s say is final!
Absolutely no: Distributor protectors, radiator guards (other than stock A.C. condenser), tranny
protectors, or tranny case modifications. Also, absolutely no rear end bracing!!!
Frame:
-No pinning, plating, filling, stuffing or painting; other than what is allowed in our rules.
-Frame may be seam welded. Single pass only.
-Pre-rans are allowed 4 plates. Plates are only allowed on a visible bend and cannot be bigger than 4”x8”
max.
Bumper/Bumper Mounting:
-Homemade pointy bumpers must have a tapered point that closely resembles a Chrysler pointy bumper
-Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges.
-Any front bumper bracket may be used on any truck. If you choose to, you may make your shocks out
of 2”x2” tubing.
-Absolutely no bracket or shock may be welded past 6 inches behind the factory core support mount
hole on the frame rail. If your trucks factory shock or bracket goes farther than 6 inches back, it must
remain completely factory beyond the allotted 6 inches.
-Bumper height is a maximum of 28 inches to the bottom of the front bumper and a minimum of 18
inches to the bottom of the rear bumper.
Suspension:
-Front suspensions may be converted from coil spring design to leaf spring design. Keep the leaf springs
mounts minimal. Do not use them to strengthen the frame.
-Tie rods can be welded up but no additional metal can be added.
-You may add 2 clamps in front of the axle and 3 behind the axle. Max of 2 bolts per clamp. Bolts can’t
be bigger than 3/8” and clamps can only be 2” wide. No duct tape or welding on the springs.
-Aftermarket steering shafts are allowed.
-Solid front suspensions are allowed but do not use this to strengthen the frame or you will need to cut
it in order to run.
Drivetrain:
-Any motor or transmission in any vehicle.
-Pulley protectors allowed but the sway bar must be removed if there is a possibility of it coming in
contact with the pulley protector.
-Skid plates allowed but can’t extend more than a ½” from the pan they are protecting.
-Solid lower engine mounts are allowed.
-No transmission case modifications.
-Slider shafts are allowed.
-No rear ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup. If running a dually rear end you may only run one wheel
per side. No rear end bracing.
Cage:
-4 point cage allowed and highly recommended.
-Gas tank protectors allowed and is not to extend more than 36 inches from the front of the bed, but
can be full width of the bed.
Body:
-Doors may be welded solid and cab can be welded to bed. (please do both!!!)
-All body bolts can be replaced and bolted solid with no bolts bigger than ¾”. Only exception is you may
use 1” althread in the core support and run it up through the hood. 4”x4” maximum body mount washer
size.
-In addition to the 2 pieces of althread in the core support, you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the
hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double
stranded #9 wire in 8 spots. It must be body to body only.
-You may also run double stranded #9 wire from the front bumper to the hood or core support in 4
places only.*
-No more than 10 3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
-Tailgates may be welded solid.
-You may fold bedsides over from the wheel wells back and tailgate may be folded over. If you choose to
do so it may only be attached to bed floor with 8 double strands of number 9 wire.
-If you choose to “tuck” a suburban or other long roof vehicle you may only attach the roof to quarter
panels with 8 spots of double stranded 9 wire. Body to body only!!
-Five 3/8” bolts per wheel well. Hardware washers only.
-The only acceptable rust repair is in the cab floor and front of bed where gas tank mounts. This is for
safety purposes only. If you don’t follow this you simply will not run.
Compact
Vigo County Fair 2016 Rules for July 11th & 16th
-All compact vehicles will follow the same safety rules and regulations listed in the general
rule section.
-105” wheel base. NO EXCEPTIONS!!!
. No full framed vehicles .
-No V8 engines allowed in compact .
Below you will find the list of options you have to build a car, if you choose to alter the stock
configurations. We absolutely will not work with a driver to get a car into the show. Do not read these
rules trying to find grey areas and do not read between the lines because you are only setting yourself
up to be pissed. We will enforce these rules very, very strictly and the Head Inspector’s say is final!
-Absolutely no engine/trans protectors, radiator protectors (other than a stock A.C. condenser, or any
other homemade parts to make a vehicle stronger. You will be allowed a gas tank protector but it must
not touch the firewall and no wider than 30 inches. If running a minivan your gas tank and/or gas tank
protector may be no farther than 36” from the rear spreader bar at any point.
-All suspension must be factory make/model for the vehicle.
-4 point cage is strongly recommended. You may run 4 downlegs to the body or the frame but these
must remain in between the front door inner seams.
-You may replace the core support mounts with ¾” althread and run them up through the hood. No
sleeving is allowed. If your vehicle doesn’t have mounts, the althread must be welded to the backside of
the core support. You may also run 2 pieces of ¾” althread through the trunk lid. They may be welded to
the side of the frame. They must be placed on the flat part of the trunk pan and ran vertical.
-Doors and trunk lid may be welded solid with 4”x1/8” strap. No stacking or overlapping. Must have a
12” inspection hole in trunk lid!!! If you choose not to weld trunk you may use 8 double stranded spots
of #9 wire but must be body to body only. Hoods may have 8 spots of double stranded 9 wire. 1”
hardware washers may be welded around the holes for the wire to pass through.
-Five 3/8” bolts with hardware washers only per wheel well.
-No more than ten 3/8” bolts to bolt the outer hood skin to the inner hood skin.
-Any O.E.M. bumper may be used and it may be loaded on the inside if you choose.
-Homemade bumper brackets are allowed but no bigger than 2”x2” tubing. You may not weld or bolt
past 6” behind the factory core support mount hole. If your vehicle doesn’t have a core support mount
we will measure from the vertical part of core support directly above the frame rail. We don’t want
bumpers falling off!!
-Absolutely no welding besides what is stated in the rules.
-The only acceptable rust repair is for your feet, seat, gas tank, tranny cooler and battery box. Don’t get
carried away or you won’t run!!
-Pre-rans will be allowed 4 plates on visible bends, 4”x6”x1/4” max size.
-All factory frame and body seams can be welded solid. Single pass and no added metal.*
-Front suspensions may be locked. If you need to weld strap to your frame in order to do so, keep it
minimal. If we feel you are using it to strengthen your frame you will need to cut it in order to run.
-In addition to the 2 pieces of althread in the core support you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the
hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double
stranded #9 wire in 8 spots. It must be body to body only.
-You may also run double stranded #9 wire from the front bumper to the hood or core support in 4
places only.
MIDSIZE CLASS + FWD/MINIVANS
-All compact and mid-size vehicles will follow the same safety rules and regulations listed in the general rule section.
105 1/16th" wheelbase and bigger will be in the mid-size class.
-MINIVANS will be allowed to participate in the mid-size class. No full framed vehicles or rear-wheel drives
-No mini trucks or V8 engines allowed
-Absolutely no engine/trans protectors, radiator protectors (other than a stock A.C. condenser), or any other homemade parts to make a vehicle stronger. You will be allowed a gas tank protector but it must not touch the firewall and no wider than 30 inches. If running a minivan your gas tank and/or gas tank protector may be no farther than 36" from the rear spreader bar at any point.
-All suspension must be factory make/model for the vehicle.
-4 point cage is strongly recommended. You may run 4 down legs to the body or the frame but these must remain in between the front door inner seams.
-You may replace the core support mounts with ¾" allthread and run them up through the hood. No sleeving is allowed. If your vehicle doesn’t have mounts, the allthread must be welded to the backside of the core support. You may also run 2 pieces of ¾" allthread through the trunk lid. They may be welded to the side of the frame. They must be placed on the flat part of the trunk pan and ran vertical.
-Doors and trunk lid may be welded solid with 4"x1/8" strap. No stacking or overlapping. Must have a 12" inspection hole in trunk lid!!! 1" hardware washers may be welded around the holes for the wire to pass through. Unlimited wire.
-Five 3/8" bolts with hardware washers only per wheel well.
-No more than ten 3/8" bolts to bolt the outer hood skin to the inner hood skin.
-Any O.E.M. bumper may be used and it may be loaded on the inside if you choose. Homemade Bumpers: You are allowed to run a 1/4" spec bumper. Can be up to 1/4" box tubing but must appear like a bumper! Minor "bumper only" reinforcement allowed to extend the life of the bumper. No rear brackets on front of cars
-Homemade bumper brackets are allowed but no bigger than 2"x2" tubing. You may not weld or bolt past 6" behind the factory core support mount hole. If your vehicle doesn’t have a core support mount we will measure from the vertical part of core support directly above the frame rail. We don’t want bumpers falling off!!
-Absolutely no welding besides what is stated in the rules.
-The only acceptable rust repair is for your feet, seat, gas tank, tranny cooler and battery box. Don’t get carried away or you won’t run!!
-Pre-rans will be allowed 4 plates on visible bends, 4"x6"x1/4" max size.
-All factory frame and body seams can be welded solid. Single pass and no added metal.*
-Front suspensions may be locked. If you need to weld strap to your frame in order to do so, keep it minimal. If we feel you are using it to strengthen your frame you will need to cut it in order to run
-In addition to the 2 pieces of allthread in the core support you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down.
Unlimited Wire
We MUST have roll over protection for Safety!!!
Contact Dave @ 812-243-7374 for an and all questions!
