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Post by racer35 on May 19, 2014 7:49:31 GMT -5
Is there more than one temp sensor? there is a sensor and also a sender, the sensor is for the computer and it is what puts the car in limp mode, the sender is for your gauge
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Post by xcody38x on May 19, 2014 8:24:03 GMT -5
What else shuts the car off if it overheats?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2014 9:10:48 GMT -5
Locks up....
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Post by xcody38x on May 19, 2014 9:14:32 GMT -5
So what happens if you guys are derbying and you lose the rad? Do you just give up and stick your thumbs in your nose? Or do you do something to prevent it from shutting down in the first place. It has to be something electrical killing it
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2014 9:42:08 GMT -5
Throttle out
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Post by C4 on May 19, 2014 11:21:42 GMT -5
At a certain point, heat will kill any engine.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2014 11:26:18 GMT -5
The trans had 2nd gear start to prevent damage to trans... The engine has limp mode to prevent damage to engine....
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Post by clintonqs on May 19, 2014 13:01:40 GMT -5
ok i have a 90 lumina with a 3.1 when i bought it it had a bad miss on the way home it dies and wont start i got it home changed the plugs and wires and did away with the fuel filter and still has the bad miss any ideas on this UPDATE IT WAS THE INJECTORS ALL ALONG HAD FIVE THAT WERE BAD
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Post by xcody38x on May 19, 2014 13:17:01 GMT -5
5 minutes of heat shouldn't kill an engine.. It stalls and doesn't start until it's cool. I bought block seal and am in the middle of that process as we speak. I think it's going to take an act of God to keep this car running but it only has 60 k miles on it
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Post by runinoutofgas on May 19, 2014 13:19:02 GMT -5
ok i have a 90 lumina with a 3.1 when i bought it it had a bad miss on the way home it dies and wont start i got it home changed the plugs and wires and did away with the fuel filter and still has the bad miss any ideas on this UPDATE IT WAS THE INJECTORS ALL ALONG HAD FIVE THAT WERE BAD Thought somebody mentioned that on the last page glad it's fixed!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2014 23:45:08 GMT -5
5 minutes of heat shouldn't kill an engine.. It stalls and doesn't start until it's cool. I bought block seal and am in the middle of that process as we speak. I think it's going to take an act of God to keep this car running but it only has 60 k miles on it Believe me 5 minutes on a 3.1 with absolutely no coolant will be a dog unless it's Carbed..
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Post by xcody38x on May 20, 2014 2:06:38 GMT -5
I put block sealer in it and it idled fine, just rocketed water out of the overflow for a second. Started really hard. Hopefully it seals up
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T-Brell
Feature Winner
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Post by T-Brell on May 20, 2014 8:00:36 GMT -5
Well that means it's definitely at a head gasket if it shot water out the overflow. Hopefully that stuff fixes it, but sometimes it won't if it's too far gone.
I know you said you don't wanna spend $100 on a head gasket set, but ya gotta pay to play and sometimes ya just gotta buck up. If you're that hard up on cash you may be able to get away with just ordering the head gaskets and using gasket sealer on the rest. You can reuse the exhaust manifold gaskets...
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dm440c
Feature Winner
derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
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Post by dm440c on May 20, 2014 9:49:30 GMT -5
theoretical question on the topic of hotwiring the coil packs, help me understand how this works please:
I'm unclear on what is telling the coils to fire if you start messing with the factory setup. On the first page it tells me to bypass the computer by keeping the pink, black, purple, and yellow wires and ditching the rest. If we are removing the computer from the equation by doing this, how do the coils know when to fire?
By contrast, an old school points distributor fires based on cam position, modified with an advance curve that is shifted via weights on a centrifugal arm. It's a mechanical solution to provide the necessary timing advance as the engine speed increases.
On a modern EFI such as the 3.1L, there is no distributor to do this function. Instead the computer has timing maps that it works from based on the input from various sensors. It takes all the inputs and then the programmed algorithm tells the individual coil to fire for each cylinder at the right time.
If I "bypass the computer" and take away its ability to control the coils, how do they know when to fire?
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Post by racer35 on May 20, 2014 9:51:16 GMT -5
theoretical question on the topic of hotwiring the coil packs, help me understand how this works please: I'm unclear on what is telling the coils to fire if you start messing with the factory setup. On the first page it tells me to bypass the computer by keeping the pink, black, purple, and yellow wires and ditching the rest. If we are removing the computer from the equation by doing this, how do the coils know when to fire? By contrast, an old school points distributor fires based on cam position, modified with an advance curve that is shifted via weights on a centrifugal arm. It's a mechanical solution to provide the necessary timing advance as the engine speed increases. On a modern EFI such as the 3.1L, there is no distributor to do this function. Instead the computer has timing maps that it works from based on the input from various sensors. It takes all the inputs and then the programmed algorithm tells the individual coil to fire for each cylinder at the right time. If I "bypass the computer" and take away its ability to control the coils, how do they know when to fire? crank sensor
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