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Post by ADDICTEDtoIMPACT on Feb 25, 2018 18:54:23 GMT -5
The anti theft was disabled by starting the car and cutting the wires that run to the anti theft in the ignition that was done before it was stripped. The car has one run on it and ran fine even after the first demo. that go for a while before setting off sometimes
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Post by crash4life on Feb 25, 2018 18:54:58 GMT -5
Do we know of a way /////yes read the gm anti theft thread in this forum. Didn't need a smart comment was just asking a question. I have read thru that a bunch trying to figure out how to disable it again but with the start wore disconnected everything in there doesn't help. Also the anti theft light is not flashing as they all state it has to be to shut it off. It stays solid till it fires not like the first time disabling it.
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Post by knightynight on Feb 26, 2018 6:10:30 GMT -5
Its your smart comment///hook the key switch back up or is it all hacked up? The problem is the yellow wire that goes to the key switch that is the theft wire not the start wire.
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Post by crash4life on Feb 26, 2018 16:50:54 GMT -5
Yes I know the yellow wire is the anti theft wire. That wire was cut and the car has been run once with a push button without a problem. The car also started a month and a half ago with no problems and now won't start at all. I have read thru the anti theft link and there was a guy in there with a 96 that had the same problem and never got a response. I am not saying it's not the anti theft just trying to figure out a way to disable it again if it is the anti theft. The yellow wire is the wire that we cut when we got it running before the first run to prevent this problem. The theft light is not blinking it stays solid till the car fires and the only way it fires is on either gas or either down the intake. You should be able to keep the car running with dumping fuel or spraying either down the intake, but it doesn't. Like I said I am not saying it's not the theft system, but definitely seems like something more.
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Post by knightynight on Feb 26, 2018 17:11:27 GMT -5
Does the fuel rail have a blead off valve you can check pressure after the injectors ?Do the injectors have power when turning over?Can u disconnect the battery and hook the yellow wire up and reset the theft.Could be a cps as well as the box could be fried.Can u put the cig fuse in and do a reading for a code?Things I would try.
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Post by ADDICTEDtoIMPACT on Feb 26, 2018 18:18:11 GMT -5
I would get a me key and switch and start over and get ready for the derby......
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Post by crash4life on Feb 27, 2018 16:55:04 GMT -5
Does the fuel rail have a blead off valve you can check pressure after the injectors ?Do the injectors have power when turning over?Can u disconnect the battery and hook the yellow wire up and reset the theft.Could be a cps as well as the box could be fried.Can u put the cig fuse in and do a reading for a code?Things I would try. There is no bleeder valve on the fuel rail. I could check the codes as the OBD II is still there. Yes the injectors have power and pulse when the car is cranking over. I am thinking about cutting my loses with this car as I have more to build.
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Post by Junkyarddog84 on Feb 28, 2018 11:15:09 GMT -5
Odd deal, mine has a bleeder on the rail on the front of the engine.
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Post by Derbydan on Mar 7, 2018 12:23:19 GMT -5
Have trouble finding anything but I'm running a 96 4 door sunfire. Built semi pro with hard nosed 4x4 homemade bumper. Thread rod welded to subframe (I think thats what its called) dipped trunk ECT.
What I am looking for is a way to prevent my Axle from poping out. This is my 5th time being put out from this and instead of scrapping the car ive decided to try and fix. I've seen tezt posts but I need more detail. Also before someone says get a better nose hitting car. I'm new to the sport and need some pointers. Thanks yall good luck on the 2018 season
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Post by Derbydan on Mar 7, 2018 12:24:05 GMT -5
Have trouble finding anything but I'm running a 96 4 door sunfire. Built semi pro with hard nosed 4x4 homemade bumper. Thread rod welded to subframe (I think thats what its called) dipped trunk ECT. What I am looking for is a way to prevent my Axle from poping out. This is my 5th time being put out from this and instead of scrapping the car ive decided to try and fix. I've seen tezt posts but I need more detail. Also before someone says get a better nose hitting car. I'm new to the sport and need some pointers. Thanks yall good luck on the 2018 season Also what psi does the 2.2s run?
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Post by Junkyarddog84 on Mar 7, 2018 13:11:30 GMT -5
Have trouble finding anything but I'm running a 96 4 door sunfire. Built semi pro with hard nosed 4x4 homemade bumper. Thread rod welded to subframe (I think thats what its called) dipped trunk ECT. What I am looking for is a way to prevent my Axle from poping out. This is my 5th time being put out from this and instead of scrapping the car ive decided to try and fix. I've seen tezt posts but I need more detail. Also before someone says get a better nose hitting car. I'm new to the sport and need some pointers. Thanks yall good luck on the 2018 season Is the cv sliding out of the cup or popping out of the trans itself? I would try welding the cv cups, and beef up the struts to help prevent the front rails from swaying too much.
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Post by Derbydan on Mar 7, 2018 13:34:09 GMT -5
Have trouble finding anything but I'm running a 96 4 door sunfire. Built semi pro with hard nosed 4x4 homemade bumper. Thread rod welded to subframe (I think thats what its called) dipped trunk ECT. What I am looking for is a way to prevent my Axle from poping out. This is my 5th time being put out from this and instead of scrapping the car ive decided to try and fix. I've seen tezt posts but I need more detail. Also before someone says get a better nose hitting car. I'm new to the sport and need some pointers. Thanks yall good luck on the 2018 season Is the cv sliding out of the cup or popping out of the trans itself? I would try welding the cv cups, and beef up the struts to help prevent the front rails from swaying too much. Tbh i think the cup came out of the transmission. I haven't taken it apart to tell. I can grab a picture off my pc later. I know where the cup goes in there is tons of shredded metal. Hope im not going to need a trans as well. I wish I could run solid front suspension but u csnt around here and suspension swaps are discouraged.. what "stock " struts would you say are more tough. I have the side of the frame rails patched with 3x3 square tubing
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Post by knightynight on Mar 7, 2018 18:05:06 GMT -5
To keep the axle from popping out of the cup you can preload the axle behind the bearing with a piece of pipe around 1in long.So after putting the new shaft into the trany slide the precut pipe over the threaded end of axle before the spindle/bearing assembly is slide on.Than check how much thread is left for the nut on the end. If you can weld supports than cut a pipe in half that will slid over the strut and be welded together.Also a flat plate under the oil pan from one side to the other helps the lower subframe from moving.
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Post by stellis124 on Mar 8, 2018 11:44:12 GMT -5
Best trick i know of too^^^^^^
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Post by Derbydan on Mar 8, 2018 12:20:39 GMT -5
Sounds like i owe you a beer for the knowledge
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