Punisher 66J
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F**K WELD CLASS, STOCK IS FOR TRUE DERBY DRIVERS!!!
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Post by Punisher 66J on Dec 21, 2012 21:21:31 GMT -5
correct...i need to keep everything simple....for me it works.. 3 wires...... coil wire... power from the battery and my starter wire twist the power and coil together.... touch your starter wire to it and go ;D K man thanx, I appreciate it.
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Post by chevykillerx13 on May 12, 2013 16:02:42 GMT -5
Running electronic ignition, and want to tie in a running light. Looking at the points style diagram which includes the 12v bulb, On the electronic ignition, the bulb should be tied in the same fashion? As in one side spliced into the wire that runs from (+) coil to the 0.5 side ballast resistor, and the other side of the bulb grounded out?
Also, will the 2 prong ballast resistors off of a Ford, or even lean burn Mopar work for this set up? Does anyone know what their resistance is?
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dm440c
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derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
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Post by dm440c on May 13, 2013 10:46:25 GMT -5
Running electronic ignition, and want to tie in a running light. Looking at the points style diagram which includes the 12v bulb, On the electronic ignition, the bulb should be tied in the same fashion? As in one side spliced into the wire that runs from (+) coil to the 0.5 side ballast resistor, and the other side of the bulb grounded out? Also, will the 2 prong ballast resistors off of a Ford, or even lean burn Mopar work for this set up? Does anyone know what their resistance is? 1st question: yes, splice a circuit into the wire running to the coil positive. Route this to your light and then ground the other side. It should then always be on when your ignition is on. Alternative: instead of grounding it directly, send it to the oil pressure switch and then it will only be on when the engine isn't running. 2nd question: Check the resistance of the ballast resistor with an Ohmmeter. It should be somewhere between 0.5 and 1.0 ohms to operate the points safely.
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Post by SDderbyman47 on May 13, 2013 22:29:52 GMT -5
Anyone run a buick Hei with the bushing from winslow? I have the hei and was wondering how hard it is to make it work. It would be going in a 318
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on May 14, 2013 10:04:27 GMT -5
I have a bushing that I made, I assume it is basically the same as Winslow. All I did was remove the drive gear and I had to modify the dist clamp but it was a simple deal overall.
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Post by scooter89 on Jul 15, 2013 2:46:43 GMT -5
i have power to both + and - side please help?
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Jul 15, 2013 14:26:03 GMT -5
i have power to both + and - side please help? OK so you measure 12v on both sides of the coil- key question: is that with all wiring in place and power on? If so, that is normal, the coil primary is a complete circuit so by definition you should show voltage on both input and output when measuring with a test light or digital meter because you are comparing it to ground. The ignition system will lift the ground when it wants to fire but you won't see that with a test lead unless you are doing a more advanced test. The wiring diagrams for points and Mopar electronic are on page 1. I promise they are correct, so if you followed them and are having an issue either you made a mistake and need to re-trace your connections or you have a faulty component.
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Post by scooter89 on Jul 16, 2013 14:47:55 GMT -5
well we wired the 2 wires from distributor then red to + then black to - then put a wire from + to flip switch and then ran 12v to thata and then ran the wires to push button but still dont have any spark. its a lean burn motor and my buddy was stripping it out and took everyting off and cut every wire except for coil and disributor so idk if i need a porcelain board or what to get the thing to run.. help please
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Jul 17, 2013 11:42:44 GMT -5
ok, so are you saying you followed a wiring diagram? I can't tell from your description if you did and if so where you found the diagram.
There is no Lean Burn diagram here, personally I think Lean Burn is garbage and wouldn't run it in anything. Well, I suppose in the past I have used it in a field car to push dead cars around because it ran when I bought it but I wouldn't invest any time or money into fixing one. This has been discussed a bit in this thread already but the usual route is to ditch the whole Lean Burn system and replace it with points, Mopar electronic, or an aftermarket solution such as an HEI conversion or MSD/Mallory/etc. all-in-one distributor. My philosophy is that any engine that runs well with Lean Burn will run well with something else and be easier to work on and more reliable, and most don't run well with Lean Burn in the first place.
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HorrorDuck
Future Icon
My first Derby Car
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Post by HorrorDuck on Aug 5, 2013 19:50:33 GMT -5
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Aug 6, 2013 10:56:44 GMT -5
first step: lose the factory wiring.
points distributor, wire it like shown on the first page, done.
Starter circuit wired like shown on the first page, done.
problem solved.
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Post by mopowerman on Aug 8, 2013 1:53:14 GMT -5
This may help for the electronic ignition. note ign. #1 (Run). ign. #2 (Start)
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Aug 8, 2013 10:48:28 GMT -5
not a bad diagram... same as what I posted on page 1
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Post by mopowerman on Aug 8, 2013 13:29:54 GMT -5
not a bad diagram... same as what I posted on page 1 almost just the whole system together maybe easier for some.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Aug 8, 2013 13:35:51 GMT -5
yep.... except for the guys who get flustered at anything beyond one wire
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