Punisher 66J
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Post by Punisher 66J on Jan 22, 2019 20:52:02 GMT -5
So on the shocker I'm building the rules allow two piece of wire per window so total of 12 pieces. I'm running tubing to the front of the leaf perch so it can pull out of move. I'll go ahead an run one wire to each side there to hold frame. Then I'll run from the a pillar down engine side of firewall to the frame to help from pushing back(has worked well on my other cars). Now for other stands I'm unsure where to run them all any one else have input on it? mopar17 owen11x dm440c Punisher 66J martin113 or any one else that runs Mopars I can't think off hand I like to put wire down around the cross member from my side bars as well but other than that pretty much what you said. I don't get too crazy with wire.
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Jan 22, 2019 21:36:47 GMT -5
So on the shocker I'm building the rules allow two piece of wire per window so total of 12 pieces. I'm running tubing to the front of the leaf perch so it can pull out of move. I'll go ahead an run one wire to each side there to hold frame. Then I'll run from the a pillar down engine side of firewall to the frame to help from pushing back(has worked well on my other cars). Now for other stands I'm unsure where to run them all any one else have input on it? mopar17 owen11x dm440c Punisher 66J martin113 or any one else that runs Mopars I can't think off hand I like to put wire down around the cross member from my side bars as well but other than that pretty much what you said. I don't get too crazy with wire. I like to max out on my nine wire an get creative see how I can use it to hold things in place like owen11x said using cage to hold pressure. I like to run my wire to a chain or turn buckle so I can twist the wire tight then tighten it later as things move so I don't have to run new wire.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Feb 23, 2019 7:54:17 GMT -5
sounds like a good strategy in theory, if I was building shockers for rules that allowed that kind of stuff I could definitely see trying that. I run only stock rules derbies these days so I don't have any direct experience to offer you on what you are describing. Let us know how it goes
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Post by chryslersdominate17 on Apr 4, 2019 23:25:48 GMT -5
So I’ve been derbying about 5 years I’ve run nothing but y framers and I love them our rules are really Grey so I was able to plate the y all the way back to the a arm and it bends right where the firewall is also was able to hard nose a pointy bumper on it. Would I be better off welding up a y framer up like a do for a limited weld derby or would I be better off running a shocker with a hard nosed pointy and no plates on the frame also. Every single Chrysler I have run the humps always blow out on me could someone upload some pictures on how you guys chain the humps Maybe explain it for me I’ve never done it and no one around has either so I feel like it would be a great advantage I feel like the back end would be way tougher. Also any other trick that could be pushing the grey area would be appreciated sorry for the long post just haven’t run a shocker yet and would really like some more good input I have read some really great things so far in this thread!
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Apr 5, 2019 6:39:48 GMT -5
So I’ve been derbying about 5 years I’ve run nothing but y framers and I love them our rules are really Grey so I was able to plate the y all the way back to the a arm and it bends right where the firewall is also was able to hard nose a pointy bumper on it. Would I be better off welding up a y framer up like a do for a limited weld derby or would I be better off running a shocker with a hard nosed pointy and no plates on the frame also. Every single Chrysler I have run the humps always blow out on me could someone upload some pictures on how you guys chain the humps Maybe explain it for me I’ve never done it and no one around has either so I feel like it would be a great advantage I feel like the back end would be way tougher. Also any other trick that could be pushing the grey area would be appreciated sorry for the long post just haven’t run a shocker yet and would really like some more good input I have read some really great things so far in this thread!
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Landshark007
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Post by Landshark007 on Apr 5, 2019 19:30:12 GMT -5
You should have at least painted it. It sticks out to much lol
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Apr 5, 2019 20:28:07 GMT -5
You should have at least painted it. It sticks out to much lol Not my pic I stolen it off here from someone else but mine will look same because it's legal.
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Apr 25, 2019 22:25:07 GMT -5
Any one ever tried cutting the a arm stop off that's under a arm? Was talking with a guy at team show he cut his off an cranked suspension tight an strapped a arms down.
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mopar17
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Post by mopar17 on Apr 26, 2019 6:18:32 GMT -5
Any one ever tried cutting the a arm stop off that's under a arm? Was talking with a guy at team show he cut his off an cranked suspension tight an strapped a arms down. I’ve done it. I typically take the rubber stops out on all of my Mopars. But on one shocker I had a torsion bar that wouldn’t cooperate so I ended up doing what you mentioned. It worked fine, but with springs mounted solid in the back it was a bumpy ride.
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on May 5, 2019 22:19:49 GMT -5
Any one ever tried cutting the a arm stop off that's under a arm? Was talking with a guy at team show he cut his off an cranked suspension tight an strapped a arms down. I’ve done it. I typically take the rubber stops out on all of my Mopars. But on one shocker I had a torsion bar that wouldn’t cooperate so I ended up doing what you mentioned. It worked fine, but with springs mounted solid in the back it was a bumpy ride. thanks. Got it sitting 21 to bottom of frame to 25 to top of the frame in the front. An the rear will be at 17 to bottom of the bumper. Rear is fairly crusty.
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Post by chryslersdominate17 on Sept 2, 2019 4:05:10 GMT -5
Ok guys just built my first shocker I welded all bumper seams collapsed shocks welded top of frame seams welded inner fender well down to frame ran 1 inch all thread through the frame made the body mounts solid and I made one hit and got hit once in the front and it’s nosed already it even bent my crossmember. What did I do wrong I’m disgusted I thought these were the bees knees any thoughts?
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Punisher 66J
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Post by Punisher 66J on Sept 2, 2019 7:25:10 GMT -5
Ok guys just built my first shocker I welded all bumper seams collapsed shocks welded top of frame seams welded inner fender well down to frame ran 1 inch all thread through the frame made the body mounts solid and I made one hit and got hit once in the front and it’s nosed already it even bent my crossmember. What did I do wrong I’m disgusted I thought these were the bees knees any thoughts? Depends what you hit and at what angle. Also depends on what bumper you had and what rules it was built to. There are way too many variables. Shockers do bend but they are strong. You need to make square hits and no big pointed bumpers. They like to bend on me between a arm and fire wall on the s and like to bend in front of the a arm if not fixed with shock. I never collapse shocks on these cars they are not chevys. I extend them out back to the a arms with the front bumper hard nosed. The cross member will bend if hit hard from the side. They are strong but not bullet proof. Any pictures? Can you elaborate?
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owen11x
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Post by owen11x on Sept 2, 2019 9:27:58 GMT -5
One thing shockers do not like is head on hits. They will bend everytime. Depending on your rules and build ability. Everyone thinks flat bumpers are the way to go but i somewhat disagree. I think 76/77 monte bumpers are good and 75-76 gran fury bumpers. Something with soft corners are very forgiving. I get bumpers are expensive for one and done but cars are more expensive id rather waist the bumper than the car. I tend to stick the corners of my bumper into wheels thats how i drive unless i get a good shot on a back wheel ill square up on it. Pointless to even waist a hit hitting someone in the doors. Junk your own car on there cage. Run a plate from torsion bars over to frame between a arm and s curve. Pressure that sub tight. Remove metal sleeve in body mounts and suck it tight unless your allowed to bolt solid. I extend bumper shocks fully and weld on top of frame all the way back as far as they can weld full length and mount bumper just touching the shock plate so you can bs your way thru tech saying its for bumper height. Mount your seat and battery boxes in a way you can sneak and extra bolt or two thru thr sub. With a big plate under them both so it stiffens the floors and pull sub rails in with a ratcheting chain binder behind a arms before you weld torsion bars to the frame rail and cut brace on one side in front of a arms. Pull those in slightly then weld brace back in and weld bumper on. Pull front of sub down and pre load rails then weld front clip on then jack up front clip while pulling sub down until fenders are really pre loaded then weld core support spacers in. It helps alot. And if allowed weld inner fenders to the rails and cover it with wet paint and sand.. Not indestructible cars but will hold there own in a chain class limited weld class
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Landshark007
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Post by Landshark007 on Sept 2, 2019 10:34:56 GMT -5
I like bumpers with a slight point an little soft Monty or Malibu so I don’t get just one frame rail. If you tweak one rail with a bad hit it’s done. Was it rusty?
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Landshark007
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Post by Landshark007 on Sept 2, 2019 10:41:41 GMT -5
I pull my frame rails together a couple inches with ratchet strap just enough to keep pressure on it then weld bumper on then take strap off
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