IMP
Heat Winner
Posts: 324
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Post by IMP on Aug 7, 2011 1:00:49 GMT -5
post all your tips/tricks/info/questions here on 1974-1978 MOPAR SHOCKERS
I'LL ALSO EDIT THIS AND PUT EVERY TYPE OF MOPAR SHOCKER THERE IS THAT WAY EVERYONE WILL KNOW WHAT THEY HAVE...SO POST AWAY WITH THE DIFF TYPES PLEASE...
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Post by fordpowerforever on Aug 9, 2011 19:25:02 GMT -5
Hardnose the bumper direct to the frame, weld bumper seams as much as possible. Weld as much frame and body seams you are allowed, remove all body mounts suck tight. add as many sub frame pin bolts as allowed, usally just one, and i do one between firewall mounts and trans crossmember dead center threw the sub. double u joint steering is a huge factor in shocker life. 8 3/4s rearend fits in very easy, just pull the springs together a bit, imp double cv shafts go right in if you take 1" out of them, weld as much as you can on the door seams, i like to do the whole front one. small and big blocks love holley 500s, i run 4.86 gears and run all sorts of different tracks. i could talk about these cars for awhile, we have built 13 in the last few years and everyone has won something, if not multiple trophies, from finale wins, to most aggressive driver and more, feel free to hit me up with questions. thanks eric #000
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dm440c
Feature Winner
derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
Posts: 2,824
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Post by dm440c on Aug 10, 2011 11:12:00 GMT -5
models covered in this tips thread:
SEDANS
1974-1978 Chrysler Newport & New Yorker
1974-1975 Imperial
1974-1975 Monaco
1976-1977 Royal Monaco
1974 Fury
1975-1977 Gran Fury
WAGONS
1974-1977 Chrysler Town & Country
1974-1977 Plymouth (Gran) Fury Suburban
1974-1975 Dodge Monaco wagon
1976-1977 Dodge Royal Monaco wagon
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dairyman
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Well I guess if I dont win I might as well f**k this car up real good
Posts: 48
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Post by dairyman on Aug 24, 2011 1:20:11 GMT -5
Just wondering if notching the frame is worth it?
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dm440c
Feature Winner
derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
Posts: 2,824
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Post by dm440c on Aug 24, 2011 11:02:09 GMT -5
Just wondering if notching the frame is worth it? you won't get a consensus from the gang on that question the way it is worded, but in general my philosophy for shocker trunks is not limited to a single build strategy. Generally speaking, if the trunk is rusty I build it to pack and if it is solid I build it to stay straight. For me, notching it would be one example of a strategy to get it to pack, while a canoe job on the lid would be an example of a strategy to get it to stay straight. Which way I go depends on the condition of the car and how I plan to use it.
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4b
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Posts: 57
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Post by 4b on Aug 24, 2011 13:29:36 GMT -5
i started a thread earlier but this is a better spot for it...im getting ideas on building my newport for a local show next summer and im allowed 4 bolts to go to the frame on the front of the car and on the rear of the car, im not allowed to go through the frame just to it...now im debating wedgeing the trunk but im not allowed to weld the lid...where would be a good spot to put my 4 bolts and what do you think about wedgeing, bowling or should i tuck and notch...thanks guys
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dm440c
Feature Winner
derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
Posts: 2,824
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Post by dm440c on Aug 25, 2011 11:01:41 GMT -5
"to the frame" not sure how to interpret that, do you think they are saying you can weld it to the frame?
"wedging" means different things to different people. I've found that if you wedge down to the corner where the trunk floor meets the tail panel, it will push the front half up into your view unless you canoe from the speaker deck and/or control with threaded rod to/through the frame. To me this form of wedging is more like a modified canoe, it walks the line between setting it up to roll and setting it up to stay straight but it's less predictable for the outcome.
Anybody who is debating build strategies for the rear has to first decide: roll or stay straight? Make that decision and then it is easier to decide about some of the other stuff. There are plusses and minuses either way.
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4b
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Posts: 57
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Post by 4b on Aug 25, 2011 16:08:30 GMT -5
i was kinda thinking the canoe, and yes we can weld the redi rod to the frame but cannot go through the frame. the quarter panels are a little soft the bottoms are rotten so i guess it would make more sense to try and get it to roll in rather than stay straight.
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Post by XtremeMopar#307 on Aug 25, 2011 19:38:53 GMT -5
heres how i did the back of my 78 newport for next year, we tucked it then canoed it after the tuck, and v'd at the tuck as well as put a small shallow notch, then tried to crease to bring out the V... what im looking for is to get the back to roll good then be tough after i get it where i want it... what do u guys think? also nothing to frame just 6 connection points which is done..... and btw it will get canoed lower the second pic is why i decided to do that instead of just making it tough but the trunk floor itself is spotless
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Post by blackmopar21 on Aug 25, 2011 20:37:46 GMT -5
Pocket t going to depict on the strength of the trunk They whole trunk pan can be rusted out and ill still dish that thing all the way down before I go cutting the trunk and frame to make it "roll"
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Post by derbydriver666 on Aug 26, 2011 5:33:32 GMT -5
i would get the ass sitting lower than that 307.....shockers are nice when everything folds over top of itself creating a wad..... just seem to last longer low for the most part
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dm440c
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derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
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Post by dm440c on Aug 26, 2011 10:53:57 GMT -5
yes, I would push that canoe job down lower especially at the speaker deck.
Can you hammer the quarters in and bolt them to the trunk pan? That would solve the rust issue, but even as it is it can still be made to roll together nice. Most of my shockers look the same way, it's not that big of a deal.
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Post by purdy20 on Aug 26, 2011 11:01:09 GMT -5
Bolted in 6 spots with 2 threaded rod going threw the fame, and notched.
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Post by XtremeMopar#307 on Aug 26, 2011 18:44:04 GMT -5
its gonna get canoed lower, dont really know how to get the back lower, id like it lower too, its only got 5 leafs cant flat leaf and the shackles arent flipped and i cant chain humps, so any other ideas would be nice.... and no i cant bolt to floor.... its also gonna get a weaker steel backed bumper for the back or a slightly modded aluminum backed one, mainly so i can make sure to save this one to put on the front of other cars, and i dont wanna cut this one down to short so its stilll usable for a front bumper
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Biff
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Posts: 112
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Post by Biff on Sept 2, 2011 20:42:22 GMT -5
what are yall doing for a steering shaft on these cars? i've tried a couple different things and seems that welding a u-joint straight to the box has worked best for me, just looking for any other ideas. thanks.
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