broiler fest eleva wi june 6th

[mewes5x]

june 6th
start time 3:30




PAYOUTS



80’s STREET STOCK

1ST PLACE $1000

2ND PLACE $500

3RD PLACE $250



MIDSIZE CHAIN

1ST PLACE $800

2ND PLACE $400

3RD PLACE $200



SUV/MINI VAN

1ST PLACE $500

2ND PLACE $250

3RD PLACE $100



FWD WELD MIDSIZe


1ST $600

2ND $300

3RD $100








Attachments area

[mewes5x]

80's Street Stock

80’s and Newer Street Stock- This class is Super Stock Class. Build to the rules not the gray areas in between the rules. It is impossible to cover every gray area of the rules, use your common sense when building. Only 80’s and newer vehicles are allowed! NO 2003 and newer FOMOCO Products!!! No Pre-Runs are allowed at the Memorial Madness Show. Fresh cars only!
• Car Preparation
1) No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. No painting in the interior of the car.
2) All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
3) All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
4) All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
5) Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered.
6) You must have a number in bright colors on each front door and must have at least the size of a 15”x15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. You cannot use the roof sign to strengthen the car.
7) All cars must have working brakes.
8) NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will not run!!
• Bumper
1) Bumpers are interchangeable.
2) Any automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car, but no more than one set of bumper brackets may be used.
3) No Chrysler Pointys are allowed, and no manufactured bumpers.
4) You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame, must keep on one side only. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with ½” bolt or less, and it must be done vertically.
5) No brackets are allowed to extend any further back than the first 14 inches of the frame. No brackets inside the frame at all!!
6) Instead of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use (1) 4” wide x 3/8” thick strap extending from your bumper down one side of the frame and cannot extend any further back than the first 14” of the frame. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an “L” shape this is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate may be formed but it cannot double at any point. Do not abuse this rule you will cut it.
7) You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. Only stock bumpers are allowed and only bumpers that came stock on cars may be used. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. Weld them solid we do not want them coming off.
8) No welding bumper to the body in any fashion.
9) Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and must be a minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame.
10) Bumpers must be in stock location.
11) Front and rear bumpers may have (4) loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.
12) The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the frame rails. Rear Bumper may be mounted in the same manner as the front bumper.
• Frame Shortening
1) You may shorten the front frame on a FoMoCo or GM on the front frame only. You may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. If it is a weld on mount leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate it, you will not run.
• Frame Welding
1) No rewelding of any factory seams is allowed.
 
• Frame Tilting
1) Tilting is allowed at boxes. (3) sides of the boxes may be welded no bigger the ½ inch welds. Cold Bending is allowed. You may cold bend in the rails under the doors, however your crossmembers or down bars cannot support the bend.
• Rust Repair
1) Call before fixing any rust on the frame.
• Frame Shaping
1) No frame shaping or squaring is allowed.
• Front Suspension
1) Tie Rods and Ball Joints: Aftermarket tie rods & ball joints are allowed. Weld & bolt in rings are allowed.
2) A-Arms: A-arms may be welded or bolted down with up to a 5/8” bolt but may not be reinforced. If welded it may only use up to (2) 2”x4”x1/8” thick strap per A-Arm. This strap must weld to the A-Arm and cannot extend farther forward or backward than 1” past the widest part of the A-Arm. No changing or modifying the a-arm brackets. Coil springs must be a factory car coil spring for a car that is permitted to run in this class.
3) Steering box: May be interchanged but must remain a stock box for a car that is legal in the class you are running. Pitman arms must remain stock or stock replacement
4) Idler Arm: Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm for that is off a car that is legal in the class you are running.
5) Hubs: Must remain stock for the spindle you are using no aftermarket hubs or rotors. Brake calipers must remain stock for the stock spindles, can use any bearing and spindle nut.
6) Spindles: Must be stock for a car that is legal in the class you are running; the only exception is old iron GM spindles.
• Rear Suspension
1) Leaf springs must be from a stock car allowed in this class, no added leaf’s. No rearranging the leaf pack. You may add (2) homemade clamps per side 2”x4”x1/4” thick. No shortening of the leaf pack. You must have a working shackle. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted.
2) You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), or put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above. You can wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out, do not go through body as this would be another body mount. You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wire) from rear end to frame in (1) spot on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld the chain to the side of the frame. For your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can weld one link only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame.
• Rear- Ends
1) Use rear end of choice.
2) You can tilt rear end if you wish for a more desirable pinion angle. Welded or posi-track highly recommended. Back braces are welcome. Braces may not extend more than 5” on the outer 10” of a stock size axle tube and 13” total, all the measurements will be off the center of the axle tube.
3) No changing out rear package trays on frame. You must use the factory brackets that came with the car you are running. No relocating brackets on the frame.
4) Rear end control arms can be reinforced. They must start from a stock set but can be reinforced. They must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using.
5) No Hybrid Setups. Watts-Conversion are NOT allowed
• Tires & Wheels
1) Tires no bigger than 16 inches, No split rims, No studded tires. Doubled tires and Solid Tires are ok – we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims.
2) Wheel reinforcement is allowed as long as the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the reinforcement stays within the factory bead. Bead locks are permitted in this class. Bead locks may be no more than 20” in diameter and can be on inside of tire only.
• Motor
1) Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location.
2) Distributor Protectors, Midplates, Distributor Cap Protectors, or Full Cradles are NOT allowed! A midplate is a plate that that goes between the engine and transmission. Only exception is if using for a BOP transmission (stock bell adapter nothing over inch taller than stock bell) do not think this is a gray area because you will sit on the trailer!
3) You are allowed a front lower cradle with pulley protector. Cradle must attach to a factory style engine mount; this is the only way to tie the engine down. Nothing can extend any further back than 3” from the very last boss on a stock engine. This means no pan protectors, side bars, carb halos, etc. can go back towards the transmission to tie it in. Header protectors are allowed, this can be accomplished with a piece of 4”x4”x¼” welded around header only and cannot connect to anything else.
• Transmission Brace and Skid Plate
1) You may run any transmission and bell housing. To hold the transmission down you are allowed (1) loop of 3/8” chain to the cross member with (1) link welded per side OR you can bolt it down with (2) 5/8” bolts with 1.5” washers using the factory holes in the factory tail shaft cone. No transmission protectors or aftermarket tail shaft cones are allowed. No steel-built pans are allowed.
• Transmission Cross Member
1) You must use a factory cross member for mounting transmission (can be out of another car), or a straight piece of 2”x2”x1/4” tubing. Transmission crossmember must be completely straight from side to side and one piece. No contoured or arched crossmembers. They must be mounted in the stock location. You may use (2) 2”x2”x1/4” x 6” long angle iron to set cross member on. The transmission cross member is the only method which the transmission may be tied in.
• Body Shaping
1) Body may be shaped on the exterior sheet metal only. No body shaping inside the passenger compartment, inside the truck, or inside the engine compartment at all.
2) Rust Repair: You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal ONLY. Do not cut rust out; weld 2” beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through, CALL for instructions on how to fix the rust hole. DO NOT FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU RUN IT.
• #9 Wire
1) #9 wire allowed in the window openings. (2) per side so (4) total in a car.
2) You may run wire from frame rail underneath the back of the car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through a factory frame hole, or you can weld (1) 3/8 chain link to the side of the frame to run the wire through, but do not reinforce the frame with the chain link or you will cut it off. This wire may pass through the trunk floor if you choose.
• Radiators
1) For mounting radiators, you may use (4)- ½” all thread. This may pass through the bottom of the core support. This must not pass through the upper core support. It may be attached to a 2”x6” 1/8” flat strap that can be welded to the core support. These straps must be outside the fan. NO radiator guards allowed.
• Body Mounts
1) Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1/2” bolts. These bolts can only be 8” long. Body mounts can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1” thick and have the same diameter as stock spacers. Bolts may extend through the body and have up to a 4”x4”x ¼” washer on top. Washers must be separate and cannot reinforce the frame. Bolts must be up inside of the frame like factory with up to a 2”x4”x ¼” washer. If you choose to use a body mount hole for your hood ready bolt this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can go on the bottom side of the frame and be no larger than 3”. If you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a ¾” space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight.
2) Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added, do not shorten the front of your car and move back past the body mount hole as your car will not run. If you have to build core support spacers you may weld it to the body or the frame mount. Core Support Spacers cannot exceed 2” square material.
3) The front frame must not be shortened to far that the 1” all thread must pass through the factory stamped hole. The all thread may only be welded to the side of the frame in this location.
4) Chrysler K-Member cannot be altered.
• Hood & Front Clip
1) Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than a total of (10) bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the (10) bolts.
2) You are allowed (6) spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of (4) tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front body mount. This spot only may be welded to the frame after it passes through the body mount but may not be nutted underneath the body mount if it is welded. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length! All hood bolts must be placed outside the windshield bars. You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed 5”x5”x1/4” square or 6” x1/4” round.
3) Front core support cannot be moved back from its factory location. It must stay bolted to the fenders the same way that it came factory. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed (4) 3/8” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt back to the core support of fender.
4) You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with (5) 3/8” bolts or less with 1.25” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them.
• Windshield Bar & Firewall
1) DO NOT ALTER FIREWALL!!! Besides what is mandatory in these rules!!
2) For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” flat strap. If and only if you remove the firewall/dash completely between the straps you can connect these 2 bars. The removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” straps. No more than 6” of strap material is allowed on the roof and no more than 6” of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6” on roof or firewall or you will cut. Window bars cannot go more than 6 inches past the window opening on the exterior only. Must be at least 14” apart at the firewall.
• Doors
1) Doors may be welded 5” on 5” off with nothing larger than 3” wide by 1/8” thick strapping. If you chose not to weld, the doors must be tied shut in (6) locations using ½” bolts no longer than 6”, 3/8” Chain, or #9 wire. If we do not deem the car safe to compete you will add more fastening points.
2) You are allowed to add bracing to the exterior side of the driver’s door. This bracing must not stick any further out than 2” from the door and may not have any sharp edges. You are allowed to carry the bracing up to 3” past the exterior door seam either forward or backward.
• Cage
1) All cage material can be no larger than 6” OD, unless specified for a specific rule smaller or larger. All cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going straight down. No cage material can be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or components, and all cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which cannot be altered.
2) You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, but do not connect directly to frame. You may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to replace your dash. You may run (2) bars connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You may weld (2) down bars from the cage to the frame vertically or to the floor to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seam and can only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot not exceed 2”x3”.
3) Side bars may be up to 6”x12”, and cannot exceed 62” long, including the rollover bar.
4) You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof.
5) Mopar’s can run a 1” bolt with a 5" plate on both sides (frame and body) in the front most frame hole in the rear frame. You are then allowed to weld a kicker from the door bar and weld to the top of this plate. It can be a maximum of 2x3” square tubing. All Mopar cage material must be 5” forward from the center of this body mount hole other than the kicker explained prior. Some Mopar’s have a very tight passenger compartment and you may need to run the halo through the small back window, mainly Cordoba’s, call first if you have questions.
6) You may also weld a steering column to the cage.
• Gas Tank Protector
1) Gas tank protector cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered between your frame humps. It cannot exceed 32” wide. It can angle in from your roll over protection. It must be a full 3” away from all sheet metal, which cannot be removed or hammered to get you closer to the frame. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal, which cannot be removed, measured from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat area. Gas tank protector must be on all 4 sides of the tank, front, back, both sides. Gas tank protector may extend 6” above the speaker deck.
• Fuel Tank, Oil Coolers, & Transmission Coolers
1) All equipment must be fashioned tightly to the vehicle! * We do not want to see anything come loose during the event, if it does, your stick will be pulled. Ratchet straps will only be sufficient as a backup.
2) Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well-made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat used to be. No other source of gas inside the car at all.
3) Engine coolers are allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. No bolts may extend through the frame to create a body mount.
• Trunks
1) You may weld your trunk lid shut in (6) spots using up to 3”x5”x1/8” patches on the factory seam.
2) You can fold hoods or trunk lid over. Do not slide your hood or trunk forward or back, trunk must remain on hinges. Trunk lids must be stock shape but may be folded in but keep it clean.
3) (2) 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan, if it passes through a body mount hole you must have a 1” spacer between the body and frame.

Rules Questions? Contact Jon- 715-222-9368

[mewes5x]

FWD Midsize Chain

Front Wheel Drive Cars Only- No welding struts, tie rods, bumpers, motor mounts, doors, etc. We are looking for an easy, throw together, fun cars! If you want to do more then what is allowed, we have a weld class! Rules are simple, follow them. If it says you can’t do it, pretty much you can’t do it. Strip the car, weld the cage, move your battery and gas tank, chain doors and put a bad a** paint job on it.
• General Rules
1) No welding unless rules say.
2) You may have a floating 4-point cage with halo, you may have a floating gas tank protector that follows the tank. You will be allowed uprights for safety around the tank with kickers connecting to your halo bar. This is for safety only, judge’s discretion if it is used in other ways.
3) All body mounts must be factory unless rusted out. If rusted out, change with same size bolt and leave stock pucks in.
4) Wire or chaining of the doors, trunk lid, and hood.
5) Fuel cell may be mounted on the back-seat bar and 2” away from back seat area.
6) Aftermarket gas pedal, brake pedal, shifter, and headers are allowed.
7) You must use stock bumper off the car! You may add 4 bolts to it to help hold it on. If stock bumper is plastic, you can change with a tin stock one off another FWD style car. No welding on anything, no compact/full size bumpers, we will enforce this heavily!
8) Any tire is allowed.
9) All plastic, lights, and glass must be removed.
10) Pre-ran car fix it plates (2) 5x5 ¼” plates. these can be used to weld bumper back on if you need to. Plates cannot be split up, must stay 5x5”. If those 2 plates aren’t enough, build a new car.
11) Drivers door can be welded shut.
12) You can clamp up your suspension to the desirable ride height.

Rules Questions? Contact Jon- 715-222-9368

[mewes5x]

FWD Midsize Weld

Front Wheel Drive Cars Only- These are a step up from the chain rules, this is still meant to be a simple build, just with a little stronger car, not a full-blown mod! Rules are simple, follow them. If it says you can’t do it, pretty much you can’t do it.
• General Rules
1) No welding unless rules say.
2) You may have a floating 4-point cage with halo, you may have a floating gas tank protector that follows the tank. You will be allowed uprights for safety around the tank with kickers connecting to your halo bar. This is for safety only, judge’s discretion if it is used in other ways.
3) All body mounts must be factory unless rusted out. If rusted out, change with same size bolt and leave stock pucks in.
4) Wire, weld or chaining of the doors, trunk lid, and hood is allowed. Max of (2) per seam allowed on doors and trunk. Trunks may have up to ¾” threaded rod and (4) welded plates not to exceed 3”x5”x1/8” thick, or (6) spots of chain/9 wire. Trunks may be dished and folded 90 degrees. Hoods may have up to ¾” threaded rod in (6) spots. The front (2) can go through the frame, the other (4) can only be welded to tin and cannot exceed 8” long.
5) Fuel cell may be mounted on the back-seat bar and 2” away from back seat area.
6) Aftermarket gas pedal, brake pedal, shifter, and headers are allowed.
7) You may put a car bumper on, 6” from bumper backing you may use a bracket to weld it on, anything past 6” will be cut off! You can also put a 6”x4” piece of tubing on instead. No loaded bumpers, seam welded is fine!!
8) Any tire is allowed.
9) All plastic, lights, and glass must be removed.
10) Pre-ran car fix it plates (2) 5x5 ¼” plates. these can be used to weld bumper back on if you need to. Plates cannot be split up, must stay 5x5”. If those 2 plates aren’t enough, build a new car.
11) Drivers door can be welded shut.
12) You can clamp up your suspension or weld in a piece of steel to the desirable ride height. Must have stock springs and look like a factory strut!
13) No welding or bracing tie rods.
14) You can carb convert an EFI engine in this class. You are allowed a basic halo to protect the carb, please call if you don’t understand what basic means! This is to protect the carb, not strengthen the car!
15) Engine mounts can either be reinforced or replaced with a 2”x2” piece of square tube.
16) Sheet metal rust can be repaired with same thickness material, leave rust there! If you are second guessing yourself, call!
17) Trailing arms cannot be reinforced.
18) Body creasing is allowed.

Rules Questions? Contact Jon- 715-222-9368

[mewes5x]

mini vans/suv

- No welding struts, tie rods, motor mounts, etc. We are looking for an easy, throw together, fun vans! If you want to do more then what is allowed, we have a weld class! Rules are simple, follow them. If it says you can’t do it, pretty much you can’t do it. Strip the car, weld the cage, move your battery and gas tank, chain doors and put a bad a** paint job on it.
• General Rules
1) No full-size vans,
2) No welding unless rules say.
3) You may have a floating 4-point cage with halo, you may have a floating gas tank protector that follows the tank.
4) All body mounts must be factory unless rusted out. If rusted out, change with same size bolt and leave stock pucks in.
5) Wire, weld or chaining of the doors, trunk lid, and hood is allowed. Max of (2) per seam allowed, (4) are allowed in the hood. 2 threaded rods may be welded to the top of frame.
6) Fuel cell may be mounted on the back-seat bar and 2” away from back seat area.
7) Aftermarket gas pedal, brake pedal, shifter, and headers are allowed.
8) You may put a car bumper on, 6” from bumper backing you may use a bracket to weld it on, anything past 6” will be cut off! You can also put a 6”x4” piece of tubing on instead. No loaded bumpers, seam welded is fine!!
9) Any tire is allowed.
10) All plastic, lights, and glass must be removed.
11) Pre-ran car fix it plates (2) 5x5 ¼” plates. these can be used to weld bumper back on if you need to. Plates cannot be split up, must stay 5x5”. If those 2 plates aren’t enough, build a new car.
12) Drivers door can be welded shut fully, or a door plate may be used.
13) Any engine or transmission may be used but it must be bolted in with factory mounts. Absolutely no welding to swap them! You can carb convert an EFI engine in this class.
14) Only stock driveshafts are allowed!

Rules Questions? Contact Jon- 715-222-9368