Post by bhthorp on Apr 20, 2021 8:15:09 GMT -5
THORP DEMO DERBY - JUNE 6, 2021
NORTHSIDE PARK - APPROX. 2:00 AFTER PARADE
THORP LIONS DEMOLITION DERBY
SUNDAY JUNE 6, 2020
APPROX. 2:00 P.M. NORTHSIDE PARK – AFTER PARADE
There will be four classes:
1. Full-size Built
2. Full-size stock
3. Midsize
4. Mini Vans
Be prepared to run heats in all classes
There will be a Driver of the day and Maddog trophy
There will be a Power Wheels derby
PITS WILL OPEN AT 10:00 AM – CARS & DRIVERS MUST BE IN PITS BY 12:30
3 cars will be accepted after 12:30 & before 1:00 – providing they pay an additional $25.00 per
car entry fee.
After fully reading, all rules please direct any questions Bill @715-828-8270. All decisions
concerning the classification of vehicles, acceptability of vehicle modifications and nonstandard equipment, driver conduct and the determination of finalists and winners are the sole
responsibility of the event officials and judges.
Rules are posted on WeCrash.proboard.com, and Thorp Lions Face Book Page. Any changes
or clarifications will be updated and posted before May 15th
THE JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL
Pit Passes: $25.00
Only cash will be accepted for Entry Fees and Pit Passes
EVENT RULES:
1. No one allowed in pits without a Pit Pass
2. All pit crew members must be at least 14 years old. People with pit passes must sign an
insurance waiver
3. Absolutely NO children will be allowed in pits
4. Absolutely NO alcoholic beverages in the pit area. Any possession of alcoholic beverages in
the Pit area will result in loss of Pit Pass with no refund along with removal from the Pit Area.
5. Drivers must be 14 years old and a parental or legal guardian must sign a form in person or
bring it notarized when registering
6. All drivers are required to wear pants and shirts during competition. NO shorts are allowed
for drivers. Approved safety helmets and seat belts are required. Eye protection, long sleeve
shirts, and fire protective clothing is recommended
7. Thorp Lions Club reserves the right to approve, reject or re-inspect any and all entries at the
event at any time. Mandatory re-inspection for all cars placing. Any alterations after inspections
will be cause for disqualification.
8. NO using driver’s door as a shield
9. Absolutely NO hitting on the driver’s door will be permitted. Judge’s decision is Final. Any
door that comes open during the event will result in disqualification
10. NO getting out of your car or removing of helmet in car unless otherwise instructed by an
official
11. No sandbagging or holding. You will get 1 warning and the second will result in
disqualification. This will be taken seriously
12. Rollovers may result in driver’s disqualification at the discretion of Lions Officials
13. Any reckless driving in the pits will result in disqualification
14. Any vehicle leaking fuel will be disqualified
15. Thorp Lions Club will not be responsible for any vehicle or its components while on the
grounds. These cars are the responsibility of the drivers and their owners. All cars left at the
site the following day will be sold for junk for Lions Benefit
16. We may or may not run heats, depending on number of cars
17. Vehicle must have secured DOT approved seat belts. A 2.5 dry chemical fire extinguisher
inside the car within the driver’s reach is highly recommended
18. Drivers and pit crewmembers MUST follow all stated rules. Any misconduct or breaking of
rules by the driver or a member of his/her pit crew will result in disqualification. Any driver or pit
crewmember fighting, arguing, or demonstrating unsportsmanlike behavior will also be
disqualified. NO drugs or alcohol in the pit area. Any driver or pit crewmember believed to be
under the influence of drugs or alcohol before or during the event will be disqualified and
prohibited from participating in any future Thorp Lion’s Events. Driver and pit crewmembers
fees will NOT be returned in the event of disqualification
19. NO two-way radios to be used by drivers
20. Questions, clarifications, and rules for the derby will be covered at the Mandatory Driver’s
Meeting
21. Protest: $200.00 MUST accompany each protest and must be submitted within 3 minutes
of completion of the feature event. Protest $$ must be in Chief official’s hands within 3 minutes
of completion of feature. (Feature drivers only may protest each other. NO pit crews or other
driver may be involved). If official finds the protested car to be illegal, the fee will be returned to
the protester and protested car and driver will be disqualified. If the person being protested is
legal he will be given the protested money. Protester MUST apply to winners only and pertain
to a RULE VIOLATION that, in the opinion of the officials, gives the car an advantage. ALL
winning cars are under OFFICIAL PROTEST by the Thorp Lions Club officials prior to awarding
any prize money. Lions Chief Official has final decision over any interpretation of the rules and
regulations
22. Entry fees to be paid before inspection. Failure to pass inspection will result in forfeiture of
entry fee. After initial inspection you will be allowed 1 re-inspection. Failure of 2nd inspection
will result in disqualification.
23. Lion’s Officials and Flagman’s judgment is FINAL. This derby will be inspected fairly and
cheating will result in disqualification.
RULES FOR ALL CARS:
Judges and Inspectors decisions are final
1. Car Stripping – all glass, outside hardware, etc. must be removed, NO glass left in doors. NO
flammable materials such as carpet, upholstery, or headliners to be left in cars. Judges
discretion
2. Car Preparation – Front seat must be securely mounted (not reinforced or bolted to frame).
Must have seat belts. Must have operating brakes. NO adding of weight or reinforcing, unless
specified. NO buffing, grinding, undercoating, or painting of frames,
3. All objects attached to the outside of car must be securely fastened and meet judges
approval
4. Cars can be decorated in any manner in good taste. NO obscene or offensive materials will
be allowed
5. Driver’s door must be left clear for numbering. Or, if you provide number, it must be on
driver’s door and legible.
6. Patching holes is for safety, NO reinforcing, the only holes you will be allowed to fix are
where you put your feet, battery or gas tank. Sheet metal only 2” past rust. There will be no
other body or frame patching
7. Two vertical steel bars MUST be run from the roof of the car to the body (not the hood) in
front of the driver. Nylon racing type window nets are strongly recommended MUST be able to
remove quickly in case of emergency. We DO NOT recommend you to cover driver’s window
with steel or mesh type material. If used, may be fastened in 4 spots with no more than 3/8”
rod
8. Wagon tailgate must be in factory position or removed. Floor door to be removed
9. You must run a hood, hood to be in near original position with minimal space between it and
cowl, and have a min. of 10” hole , holes in hood may be stitched with max (8) 3/8” bolts per
opening
10. Trunk lid quarter panels must remain in stock location. Minimal amount of folding them over
into the trunk lid is allowed. Tail light panel must not be beat down to cause ramp effect. Only
trunk lid can be modified and it must remain 50% in stock location
11. Transmission coolers are acceptable. Cooler may be mounted inside of car. All lines
traveling inside of driver’s compartment must be metal lines or high pressure hydraulic lines,
and run thru some form of another hose. Max. total size of cooler 24” x 24” x 18” including
mounts.
12. Battery must be mounted in front seat and be secured, fastened, and covered.
13. Radiators must be left in original position or taken out. NO auxiliary engine coolers, NO
anti-freeze. Nylon straps, steel bands, chain,or wire may only be used to support radiator.
14. Trailer hitch must be completely removed
15. NO welding of chain links to form a bar
16. Gas and Gas Tanks – 5 gallon fuel cell highly recommended. Original gas tanks must be
removed. Gas tanks must me metal, secured, and located on the floor in the back seat area.
Gas line may not run under car. Gas tank must be covered. Pump fuel only, NO alcohol,
menthol, or diesel. Cars are restricted to a max. of 6 gallons of gas per event. All gas in pit area
must be in a red container. Gas spillage may result in disqualification. Electric fuel pumps must
have a clearly marked shut-off switch accessible by driver. Drain holes to be drilled around tank
17. Tires – Max. height for classes. NO wheel weights, double or split rims. NO studded tires.
Valve stem guards are permitted, must be securely mounted. Tires may be fastened to rims
with screws.
18. Air bags and charges to be removed by unbolting, NOT cutting out just air bags.
Full-Size Built Class
Derby car entry fee: $100, cash only, includes driver pit pass
$1,500 – 1st place and trophy
$1000 – 2nd place and trophy
$500– 3rd place and trophy
Based on 10 entries minimum
NO 2003 and newer FOMOCO Products!
NO 1973 & Older Imperials or Hearses are allowed
1) No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies
except where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. No painting in the interior of the car.
2) All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
3) All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
4) All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
5) Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and
covered.
6) You must have a number in bright colors on each front door and must have at least the size
of a 15”x15”
sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. You cannot use the roof sign to strengthen the car.
7) All cars must have working brakes.
8) NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any
weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and
your car will not run!!
Bumper
1) Bumpers are interchangeable.
2) Any automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car, but no more than
one set of bumper brackets may be used. In lieu of automotive bumper, 4x4x 1/4 tube may be
used.
3) No Chrysler Pointys are allowed, and no manufactured bumpers.
4) You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame, must keep on one side only. You can
weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You
can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with 1⁄2” bolt or less, and it
must be done vertically.
5) No brackets are allowed to extend any further back than the first 14 inches of the frame. No
brackets
inside the frame at all!!
6) Instead of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use (1) 4” wide x 3/8” thick strap
extending from
your bumper down one side of the frame and cannot extend any further back than the first 14”
of the frame. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create
an “L” shape this is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate may
be formed but it cannot double at any point. Do not abuse this rule you will cut it.
7) You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. Only stock bumpers are allowed
and only bumpers that came stock on cars may be used. You may trim bumper ends or fold
them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. Weld them solid we
do not want them coming off. 4x4 steel tube bumper allowed.
8) No welding bumper to the body in any fashion.
9) Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and must be a
minimum of
14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame.
10) Bumpers must be in stock location.
11) Front and rear bumpers may have (4) loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck
(to sheet
metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be
placed in front
of the radiator.
12) The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may
extend back past
the front most part of the frame rails. Rear Bumper may be mounted in the same manner as
the front bumper.
Frame
1) You may shorten the front frame on a FoMoCo or GM on the front frame only. You may cut
the frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. If it is a weld on mount leave the
remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or
relocate it, you will not run.
2) No rewelding of any factory seams is allowed.
3) Tilting is allowed at boxes. (3) sides of the boxes may be welded no bigger the 1⁄2 inch
welds. Cold Bending is allowed. You may cold bend in the rails under the doors, however your
crossmembers or down bars cannot support the bend.
4) Call before fixing any rust on the frame.
5) No frame shaping or squaring is allowed.
6)All cars may use up to 6- 6x6x1/4 plates on frame rails. Pre-run will be allowed up to 8 may
be formed
Front Suspension
1) Tie Rods and Ball Joints: Aftermarket tie rods & ball joints are allowed. Weld & bolt in rings
are allowed.
2) A-Arms: A-arms may be welded or bolted down with up to a 5/8” bolt but may not be
reinforced. If welded it may only use up to (2) 2”x4”x1/8” thick strap per A-Arm. This strap must
weld to the A-Arm and cannot extend farther forward or backward than 1” past the widest part
of the A-Arm. No changing or modifying the a-arm brackets. Coil springs must be a factory car
coil spring for a car that is permitted to run in this class.
3) Steering box: May be interchanged but must remain a stock box for a car that is legal in the
class you are running. Pitman arms must remain stock or stock replacement
4) Idler Arm: Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm for that is off a car
that is legal in the class you are running.
5) Hubs: Must remain stock for the spindle you are using no aftermarket hubs or rotors. Brake
calipers must remain stock for the stock spindles, can use any bearing and spindle nut.
6) Spindles: Must be stock for a car that is legal in the class you are running; the only exception
is old iron GM spindles.
Rear Suspension
1) Leaf springs must be from a stock car allowed in this class, no added leaf’s. No rearranging
the leaf pack. You may add (2) homemade clamps per side 2”x4”x1/4” thick. No shortening of
the leaf pack. You must have a working shackle. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets
to prevent them from becoming unbolted.
2) You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be
tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), or put spacers in sagging
coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is
listed above. You can wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from
falling out, do not go through body as this would be another body mount. You can loop chain
or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wire) from rear end to frame in (1) spot on each
side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to
weld the chain to the side of the frame. For your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can
weld one link only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping
it around the frame.
Rear Ends
1) Use rear end of choice.
2) You can tilt rear end if you wish for a more desirable pinion angle. Welded or posi-track
highly
recommended. Back braces are welcome. Braces may not extend more than 5” on the outer
10” of a
stock size axle tube and 13” total, all the measurements will be off the center of the axle tube.
3) No changing out rear package trays on frame. You must use the factory brackets that came
with the car
you are running. No relocating brackets on the frame.
4) Rear end control arms can be reinforced. They must start from a stock set but can be
reinforced. They
must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using.
5) No Hybrid Setups. Watts-Conversion are NOT allowed
Tires & Wheels
1) Tires no bigger than 16 inches, No split rims, No studded tires. Doubled tires and Solid Tires
are ok – we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims
2) Wheel reinforcement is allowed as long as the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the
reinforcement stays within the factory bead. Bead locks are permitted in this class. Bead locks
may be no more than 20” in diameter and can be on inside of tire only.
Motor
1) Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location.
2) Distributor Protectors, Midplates, Distributor Cap Protectors, or Full Cradles are NOT
allowed! A midplate is a plate that that goes between the engine and transmission. Only
exception is if using for a BOP transmission (stock bell adapter nothing over inch taller than
stock bell) do not think this is a gray area because you will sit on the trailer!
3) You are allowed a front lower cradle with pulley protector. Cradle must attach to a factory
style engine mount; this is the only way to tie the engine down. Nothing can extend any further
back than 3” from the very last boss on a stock engine. This means no pan protectors, side
bars, carb halos, etc. can go back towards the transmission to tie it in. Header protectors are
allowed, this can be accomplished with a piece of 4”x4”x1⁄4” welded around header only and
cannot connect to anything else.
Transmission
1) You may run any transmission and bell housing. To hold the transmission down you are
allowed (1) loop of 3/8” chain to the cross member with (1) link welded per side OR you can
bolt it down with (2) 5/8” bolts with 1.5” washers using the factory holes in the factory tail shaft
cone. No transmission protectors or aftermarket tail shaft cones are allowed. No steel-built
pans are allowed.
2) You must use a factory cross member for mounting transmission (can be out of another car),
or a straight piece of 2”x2”x1/4” tubing. Transmission crossmember must be completely
straight from side to side and one piece. No contoured or arched crossmembers. They must be
mounted in the stock location. You may use (2) 2”x2”x1/4” x 6” long angle iron to set cross
member on. The transmission cross member is the only method which the transmission may
be tied in.
BODY
1) Body may be shaped on the exterior sheet metal only. No body shaping inside the
passenger compartment, inside the truck, or inside the engine compartment at all.
2) Rust Repair: You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal ONLY. Do not cut rust
out; weld 2” beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through, CALL for instructions on how to fix
the rust hole. DO NOT FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU RUN IT.
#9 WIRE
1) #9 wire allowed in the window openings. (2) per side so (4) total in a car.
2) You may run wire from frame rail underneath the back of the car, behind rear end with 4
loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through
a factory frame hole, or you can weld (1) 3/8 chain link to the side of the frame to run the wire
through, but do not reinforce the frame with the chain link or you will cut it off. This wire may
pass through the trunk floor if you choose.
Radiators
1) For mounting radiators, you may use (4)- 1⁄2” all thread. This may pass through the bottom
of the core support. This must not pass through the upper core support. It may be attached to
a 2”x6” 1/8” flat strap that can be welded to the core support. These straps must be outside
the fan. NO radiator guards allowed.
BODY MOUNTS
1) Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1/2” bolts. These bolts can only be 8” long. Body
mounts can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1” thick and have the same
diameter as stock spacers. Bolts may extend through the body and have up to a 4”x4”x 1⁄4”
washer on top. Washers must be separate and cannot reinforce the frame. Bolts must be up
inside of the frame like factory with up to a 2”x4”x 1⁄4” washer. If you choose to use a body
mount hole for your hood ready bolt this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can go
on the bottom side of the frame and be no larger than 3”. If you choose to leave in the stock
rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a
3⁄4” space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck
them down tight.
2) Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down
solid. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added, do not shorten the front of your car
and move back past the body mount hole as your car will not run. If you have to build core
support spacers you may weld it to the body or the frame mount. Core Support Spacers
cannot exceed 2” square material.
3) The front frame must not be shortened to far that the 1” all thread must pass through the
factory stamped hole. The all thread may only be welded to the side of the frame in this
location.
4) Chrysler K-Member cannot be altered.
HOOD & FRONT CLIP
1) Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may
be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than a total
of (10) bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes
but do not exceed the (10) bolts.
2) You are allowed (6) spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of (4) tie down
spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go
through the front body mount. This spot only may be welded to the frame after it passes
through the body mount but may not be
nutted underneath the body mount if it is welded. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal
to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length! All hood bolts must
be placed outside the windshield bars. You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed
5”x5”x1/4” square or 6” x1/4” round.
3) Front core support cannot be moved back from its factory location. It must stay bolted to the
fenders the same way that it came factory. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of
the core support do not exceed (4) 3/8” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt back to the core
support of fender.
4) You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with (5)
3/8” bolts or less with 1.25” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them.
WINDSHIELD BAR & FRONT CLIP
1) DO NOT ALTER FIREWALL!!! Besides what is mandatory in these rules!!
2) For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the
firewall/dash,
straps cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” flat strap. If and only if you remove the firewall/dash
completely between the straps you can connect these 2 bars. The removed part must be
completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting
the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” straps. No more than 6” of strap
material is allowed on the roof and no more than 6” of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do
not go over 6” on roof or firewall or you will cut. Window bars cannot go more than 6 inches
past the window opening on the exterior only. Must be at least 14” apart at the firewall.
DOORS
1) Doors may be welded 5” on 5” off with nothing larger than 3” wide by 1/8” thick strapping. If
you chose not to weld, the doors must be tied shut in (6) locations using 1⁄2” bolts no longer
than 6”, 3/8” Chain, or #9 wire. If we do not deem the car safe to compete you will add more
fastening points.
2) You are allowed to add bracing to the exterior side of the driver’s door. This bracing must not
stick any further out than 2” from the door and may not have any sharp edges. You are allowed
to carry the bracing up to 3” past the exterior door seam either forward or backward.
SAFETY CAGE
1) All cage material can be no larger than 6” OD, unless specified for a specific rule smaller or
larger. All cage
material must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going straight
down. No cage material can be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or
components, and all cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which
cannot be altered.
2) You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, but do not
connect directly to frame. You may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your
dash area to replace your dash. You may run (2) bars connecting the dash bar and seat bar
inside of the front doors only. You may weld (2) down bars from the cage to the frame vertically
or to the floor to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the
inside door seam and can only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot not
exceed 2”x3”.
3) Side bars may be up to 6”x12”, and cannot exceed 62” long, including the rollover bar.
4) You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and
may be
welded or bolted to the roof.
5) Mopar’s can run a 1” bolt with a 5" plate on both sides (frame and body) in the front most
frame hole in
the rear frame. You are then allowed to weld a kicker from the door bar and weld to the top of
this plate. It can be a maximum of 2x3” square tubing. All Mopar cage material must be 5”
forward from the center of this body mount hole other than the kicker explained prior. Some
Mopar’s have a very tight passenger compartment and you may need to run the halo through
the small back window, mainly Cordoba’s, call first if you have questions.
6) You may also weld a steering column to the cage.
7) Gas tank protector cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered
between your frame humps. It cannot exceed 32” wide. It can angle in from your roll over
protection. It must be a full 3” away from all sheet metal, which cannot be removed or
hammered to get you closer to the frame. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal,
which cannot be removed, measured from the highest flat
area of the floor in the rear seat area. Gas tank protector must be on all 4 sides of the tank,
front, back, both sides. Gas tank protector may extend 6” above the speaker deck.
GAS TANK & COOLERS
1) All equipment must be fashioned tightly to the vehicle! * We do not want to see anything
come loose during the event, if it does, your stick will be pulled. Ratchet straps will only be
sufficient as a backup.
2) Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well-made fuel cell, and it
must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel line must be
secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or
in the center of the car where the back seat used to be. No other source of gas inside the car
at all.
3) Engine coolers are allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. No bolts
may extend through the frame to create a body mount.
TRUNK
1) You may weld your trunk lid shut in (6) spots using up to 3”x5”x1/8” patches on the factory
seam.
2) You can fold hoods or trunk lid over. Do not slide your hood or trunk forward or back, trunk
must remain
on hinges. Trunk lids must be stock shape but may be folded in but keep it clean.
3) (2) 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan, if it passes through a
body mount
hole you must have a 1” spacer between the body and frame
FULL-SIZE STOCK CLASS
Derby car entry fee: $80, cash only, includes driver pit pass
$1000 – 1st place and trophy
$500 – 2nd place and trophy
$300– 3rd place and trophy
Based on 10 entries minimum
NO 2003 and newer FOMOCO Products!
NO 1973 & Older Imperials or Hearses are allowed.
GENERAL RULES
1) The following is not allowed in this class: Distributor protectors, reinforced tie rods,
reinforced control arms, reinforced trailing arms, and creasing body panels. No tipping or cold
bending of frames.
2) No frame repairs are allowed, Unless approved by BILL (715)-828-8270
3) Welding is only allowed for the following: Motor mounts, bumpers, spider gears.
4) ABSOLUTLEY NO WELDING ON THE FRAME!!
5) Remove all glass, chrome, plastic, moldings, headliner, dash, flammable material, a/c
coolant, antifreeze,
trailer hitches and interior decorating.
6) Stock gas tanks must be removed. A small tank must be mounted in the rear seat area. The
tank must be
very secure and covered. Use proper rated fuel lines, plastic tanks must be in a metal box. No
exceptions.
7) Electric fuel pump allowed; switch must be clearly marked.
8) No more than 2 batteries are allowed, which must be relocated to the front passenger
floorboard,
secured and covered.
9) Hoods must have at least a 12” x 12” opening, in case of a fire, if not running headers.
10) Floor shifters, ignition and wiring (hotwire) modifications are allowed.
11) #9 wire only allowed in the door window openings. (1) spot of 4 loops may go around
frame. No #9 wire anywhere else allowed.
BUMPERS & FRAME
1) Any car bumpers can be used besides Chrysler Pointy’s. Loaded and seam welded
bumpers are allowed, in lieu of automotive may use 4x4x1/4 steel tube.
2) Bumpers must be attached to stock bumper shocks, no extra metal allowed. Shocks may be
welded, no extra metal allowed. Shocks and welds may not go more than 6” back from center
of core support mount. You may hard nose bumper to frame and eliminate the shock.
3) 2- 4x4x1/4 plates may be mounted anywhere not tied to drivetrain. Plates may be bent
4) Instead of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use (1) 4” wide x 3/8” thick strap
extending from your bumper down one side of the frame and cannot extend any further back
than the first 14” of the frame. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the
frame 4” to create an “L” shape this is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the
strap. Plate may be formed but it cannot double at any point. Do not abuse this rule you will
cut it. 4x4 tube allowed
5) Hump Plates allowed 4x16x1/4
6) Notching and dimpling of the frame is allowed.
7) No pre-bending.
8) No creasing or squaring of the frame is allowed.
SAFETY CAGE
1) You may have a 4-point cage which consists of a dash bar, a bar behind seat, and a bar
along driver and passenger door. Connecting the four bars is allowed by welding. Cage cannot
be attached in any way, to the frame or body mounts. You may run a roll bar which can be
attached to the roof in 2 spots. You may have one outside driver’s door bar no more than 2”
past the door seam. You may have (4) down bars attached to sheet metal only.
2) Gas tank protector may be mounted off rear seat bar and must be 4” away from sheet metal
and no more than 24” wide.
3) Door Bars cannot exceed 60” Max.
BODY MOUNTS
1) Core support may be changed to a 3/4” max bolt, 5” x 5” washer max. 4” max space
between core support and frame. No adding extra body bolts or mounts.
2) Body Mounts may be 7/16” bolt MAX. Must maintain 3/4” rubber spacing. Max 3x3 washer
HOOD/TRUNK
1) Hood must be open for inspection. After you pass inspection, you may bolt, wire, or chain
your hood in (6) spots.
2) Trunk may be chained in (4) spots using 3/8” chain max.
3) You may have (7) 3/8” drip rail bolts between 3 drip rails.
4) You may have (2) max – 3/4” threaded rod in core support.
5) Front chains (core support) may go around the bumper or frame, NOT BOTH.
6) Only (2) of the trunk chains may go around the frame or bumper, NOT BOTH.
7) One chain per hole or two strands or #9-gauge wire per hole.
8) You may have (2) max – 3/4" threaded rod in trunk. Must go through body mount hole or
welded vertically to the frame.
DOORS
1) Driver’s door may be welded shut for safety. Doors must be chained (2 chains per door
max), wired, or welded shut. No chains or wire may go around the frame. 2”x5”x 1/8” max
patch, four per vertical seam.
DRIVETRAIN
1) May run a J.W. style ultra-bell. No other aftermarket ultra-bells are allowed!
2) Transmission coolers allowed but lines must be safely protected. Motors may be swapped,
example: Ford
to Chevy and so on. Slider drive shafts allowed.
3) Mounts may be changed but, not reinforced, 2 additional chains are allowed; 1 per side to
go from head to engine
crossmember. Lower engine cradle with pulley protector are allowed, must use stock OEM
motor mount.
4) No aftermarket tail shafts. Transmission must be rubber mounted.
5) You may run aftermarket steering columns.
6) If you need to relocate transmission cross member you can weld a piece of angle iron
2x2x1⁄4”x6” long to frame and set cross member on. You may also use a 2x2x1⁄4” box tube
straight across and must use rubber transmission mount. Cross member must be centered on
angle iron.
SUSPENSION
1) May use (2) 2”x4”1/4” flat strap on upper A-Arm, (1) in the front and (1) in the rear of A-Arm.
This may be welded on for suspension height only, not to strengthen frame in any way.
2) No more than 9 leaf’s max, leaf’s must stager 2”.
3) Max of (5) spring clamps per side. ABSOLUTELY no welding or attaching clamps to frame in
any way. 3/8”
max bolts for clamps.
4) Must use stock ball joints or OEM replacement. Must bolt directly in.
REAR ENDS
1) You may run a 5-lug car type rear end, no truck rear ends allowed. No rear end braces at all.
2) You may have hump chains – must go around frame (not body), no welding of the chains!
3) Rear end may be welded to gain posi-traction.
4) No aftermarket axles, they must be stock
5) 4- Trailer arms may be shortened, overlapped and welded. NO adding metal.
TIRES
1) Tires no bigger than 16 inches, No split rims, No studded tires. Doubled tires and Solid Tires
are ok – we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims.
2) Wheel reinforcement is allowed as long as the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the
reinforcement stays within the factory bead. Bead locks are permitted in this class. Bead locks
may be no more than 20” in diameter and can be on inside of tire only.
MIDSIZE
Derby car entry fee - $40.00
$600.00 first place and trophy
$400.00 second place and trophy
$200.00 third place and trophy
May pay out more based on entries
Mid-size 4 cyl. and 6 cyl. ONLY, no full framed cars. No wheel base over 111”
HOOD
1) 6 spots total maybe chains (24”), wire (4 loops) maximum. 2 spots maybe max. of 1”
threaded rod, these may go to frame max 4” x 4” washers, no spacers, rod only, rubber in front
sub maybe removed
TRUNK
2)May have 4 hold downs, 24”chains, 4 loops wire – 2 may go to framing, 2 sheet metal to
sheet metal
DOORS
1) 2 chains (24”) each per door, 2 – 4 loop wire or 2 -2” x 6” plates. Driver’s door maybe welded
solid max. 2” wide plates, reinforced with external plate can’t extend more than 2” past vertical
door seams
WHEELS & TIRES
1)Aluminum may be changed to steel, no reinforcing, no after market
2)DOT, max. height 26”
ENGINE
1)No protectors, stock mounts, NO headers, NO carb convertors
SUSPENSION
1) Must remain completely stock, struts maybe tack welded or clamped
SAFETY CAGE
1)4 point cage, dash bar, back seat bar, drivers and passenger door bars and halo. All cage
materials max. 4” tube Door bars no further than 6” from back of seat.
2)Gas tank protector is recommended, extending rear ward no farther than most forward point
of wheel wells. 4” off floor and in line with back seat opening.
BUMPERS
1)Front Bumper- may be swapped with 80 and newer full size steeI. In lieu of automotive
bumper you may use tube steel 4” x 4” x ¼” thick no wider than car.
2)You may mount by bolting or welding to flanges only. Max. 6” long tube inside of uni-body
frame to weld bumper to. May only be attached to frame by bolting 2 bolts per side max. 2”
washers, may also weld factory flanges – NO other adding of metal.
3)Rear bumper -maybe swapped out, welded to factory flanges only, NO adding metal
Speaker deck maybe dished max. of 3” Back window bar max. 2x 2” ,3/8” thick from speaker
deck to roof
RADIATORS
1)Stock style radiator only, ¼” mesh protector allowed, NO angle iron – just mesh
Sheet metal can be creased
Rear bumper -maybe swapped out, welded to factory flanges only, NO adding metal
Speaker deck maybe dished max. of 3” Back window bar max. 2x 2” ,3/8” thick from speaker
deck to roof
FWD MINI VANS
VAN Entry Fee $40
$300 1st Place & trophy
$200 2nd Place & trophy
$100 3rd Place & trophy
Based on 10 entries minimum
GENERAL RULES
1) No full-size vans or SUV’s, Front Wheel Drive only.
2) No welding unless rules say.
3 No welding struts, tie rods, motor mounts, etc.
4) You may have a floating 4-point cage with halo, you may have a floating gas tank protector
that
follows the tank.
5) All body mounts must be factory unless rusted out. If rusted out, change with same size bolt
and
leave stock pucks in.
6) Wire, weld or chaining of the doors, trunk lid, and hood is allowed. Max of (2) per seam
allowed, (4) are allowed in the hood. 2 threaded rods may be welded to the top of frame.
7) Fuel cell may be mounted on the back-seat bar and 2” away from back seat area.
8) Aftermarket gas pedal, brake pedal, shifter, and headers are allowed.
9) You may put a car bumper on, 6” from bumper backing you may use a bracket to weld it on,
anything past 6” will be cut off! You can also put a 6”x4” piece of tubing on instead. No loaded
bumpers, seam welded is fine!!
10) Any tire is allowed.
11) All plastic, lights, and glass must be removed.
12) Pre-ran car fix it plates (2) 5x5 1⁄4” plates. these can be used to weld bumper back on if
you need to. Plates cannot be split up, must stay 5x5”. If those 2 plates aren’t enough, build a
new car.
13) Drivers door can be welded shut fully, or a door plate may be used.
14) Any engine or transmission may be used but it must be bolted in with factory mounts.
Absolutely no welding to swap them! You can carb convert an EFI engine in this class.
15) Only stock driveshafts are allowed!
POWER WHEELS DERBY
Please also refer to the general/competition/safety rules
Safety is first for the Power Wheels Class for all children
This is supposed to be fun for the kids!! Parents, Please don’t ruin if for them
Power Wheels Derby is for kids 2 –10 years old. All kids MUST be accompanied by an adult
and have a Minor Release form on file
Derby is limited to 12 Volt Power Wheels only. All power wheels must remain as they came
from the store. Nothing may be added or reinforced for strength. Paint them up and let the kids
have a blast!!!!
Stock tires only
All power wheels must set like the store bought ones – no raising or lowering the front or rear
of the power wheels
Stock battery can be replaced with a 12 volt mower battery only. It can be positioned anywhere
inside the car and covered, not in the passenger seat
Rollover bars will be allowed as long as we feel they are safe and don’t reinforce the cars - so
bring your saws
Helmets are mandatory
Seatbelts are recommended
Doors and hoods must be secured with a bungee cord, rope, or similar
Power Wheels Derby will be held after heats
.
NORTHSIDE PARK - APPROX. 2:00 AFTER PARADE
THORP LIONS DEMOLITION DERBY
SUNDAY JUNE 6, 2020
APPROX. 2:00 P.M. NORTHSIDE PARK – AFTER PARADE
There will be four classes:
1. Full-size Built
2. Full-size stock
3. Midsize
4. Mini Vans
Be prepared to run heats in all classes
There will be a Driver of the day and Maddog trophy
There will be a Power Wheels derby
PITS WILL OPEN AT 10:00 AM – CARS & DRIVERS MUST BE IN PITS BY 12:30
3 cars will be accepted after 12:30 & before 1:00 – providing they pay an additional $25.00 per
car entry fee.
After fully reading, all rules please direct any questions Bill @715-828-8270. All decisions
concerning the classification of vehicles, acceptability of vehicle modifications and nonstandard equipment, driver conduct and the determination of finalists and winners are the sole
responsibility of the event officials and judges.
Rules are posted on WeCrash.proboard.com, and Thorp Lions Face Book Page. Any changes
or clarifications will be updated and posted before May 15th
THE JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL
Pit Passes: $25.00
Only cash will be accepted for Entry Fees and Pit Passes
EVENT RULES:
1. No one allowed in pits without a Pit Pass
2. All pit crew members must be at least 14 years old. People with pit passes must sign an
insurance waiver
3. Absolutely NO children will be allowed in pits
4. Absolutely NO alcoholic beverages in the pit area. Any possession of alcoholic beverages in
the Pit area will result in loss of Pit Pass with no refund along with removal from the Pit Area.
5. Drivers must be 14 years old and a parental or legal guardian must sign a form in person or
bring it notarized when registering
6. All drivers are required to wear pants and shirts during competition. NO shorts are allowed
for drivers. Approved safety helmets and seat belts are required. Eye protection, long sleeve
shirts, and fire protective clothing is recommended
7. Thorp Lions Club reserves the right to approve, reject or re-inspect any and all entries at the
event at any time. Mandatory re-inspection for all cars placing. Any alterations after inspections
will be cause for disqualification.
8. NO using driver’s door as a shield
9. Absolutely NO hitting on the driver’s door will be permitted. Judge’s decision is Final. Any
door that comes open during the event will result in disqualification
10. NO getting out of your car or removing of helmet in car unless otherwise instructed by an
official
11. No sandbagging or holding. You will get 1 warning and the second will result in
disqualification. This will be taken seriously
12. Rollovers may result in driver’s disqualification at the discretion of Lions Officials
13. Any reckless driving in the pits will result in disqualification
14. Any vehicle leaking fuel will be disqualified
15. Thorp Lions Club will not be responsible for any vehicle or its components while on the
grounds. These cars are the responsibility of the drivers and their owners. All cars left at the
site the following day will be sold for junk for Lions Benefit
16. We may or may not run heats, depending on number of cars
17. Vehicle must have secured DOT approved seat belts. A 2.5 dry chemical fire extinguisher
inside the car within the driver’s reach is highly recommended
18. Drivers and pit crewmembers MUST follow all stated rules. Any misconduct or breaking of
rules by the driver or a member of his/her pit crew will result in disqualification. Any driver or pit
crewmember fighting, arguing, or demonstrating unsportsmanlike behavior will also be
disqualified. NO drugs or alcohol in the pit area. Any driver or pit crewmember believed to be
under the influence of drugs or alcohol before or during the event will be disqualified and
prohibited from participating in any future Thorp Lion’s Events. Driver and pit crewmembers
fees will NOT be returned in the event of disqualification
19. NO two-way radios to be used by drivers
20. Questions, clarifications, and rules for the derby will be covered at the Mandatory Driver’s
Meeting
21. Protest: $200.00 MUST accompany each protest and must be submitted within 3 minutes
of completion of the feature event. Protest $$ must be in Chief official’s hands within 3 minutes
of completion of feature. (Feature drivers only may protest each other. NO pit crews or other
driver may be involved). If official finds the protested car to be illegal, the fee will be returned to
the protester and protested car and driver will be disqualified. If the person being protested is
legal he will be given the protested money. Protester MUST apply to winners only and pertain
to a RULE VIOLATION that, in the opinion of the officials, gives the car an advantage. ALL
winning cars are under OFFICIAL PROTEST by the Thorp Lions Club officials prior to awarding
any prize money. Lions Chief Official has final decision over any interpretation of the rules and
regulations
22. Entry fees to be paid before inspection. Failure to pass inspection will result in forfeiture of
entry fee. After initial inspection you will be allowed 1 re-inspection. Failure of 2nd inspection
will result in disqualification.
23. Lion’s Officials and Flagman’s judgment is FINAL. This derby will be inspected fairly and
cheating will result in disqualification.
RULES FOR ALL CARS:
Judges and Inspectors decisions are final
1. Car Stripping – all glass, outside hardware, etc. must be removed, NO glass left in doors. NO
flammable materials such as carpet, upholstery, or headliners to be left in cars. Judges
discretion
2. Car Preparation – Front seat must be securely mounted (not reinforced or bolted to frame).
Must have seat belts. Must have operating brakes. NO adding of weight or reinforcing, unless
specified. NO buffing, grinding, undercoating, or painting of frames,
3. All objects attached to the outside of car must be securely fastened and meet judges
approval
4. Cars can be decorated in any manner in good taste. NO obscene or offensive materials will
be allowed
5. Driver’s door must be left clear for numbering. Or, if you provide number, it must be on
driver’s door and legible.
6. Patching holes is for safety, NO reinforcing, the only holes you will be allowed to fix are
where you put your feet, battery or gas tank. Sheet metal only 2” past rust. There will be no
other body or frame patching
7. Two vertical steel bars MUST be run from the roof of the car to the body (not the hood) in
front of the driver. Nylon racing type window nets are strongly recommended MUST be able to
remove quickly in case of emergency. We DO NOT recommend you to cover driver’s window
with steel or mesh type material. If used, may be fastened in 4 spots with no more than 3/8”
rod
8. Wagon tailgate must be in factory position or removed. Floor door to be removed
9. You must run a hood, hood to be in near original position with minimal space between it and
cowl, and have a min. of 10” hole , holes in hood may be stitched with max (8) 3/8” bolts per
opening
10. Trunk lid quarter panels must remain in stock location. Minimal amount of folding them over
into the trunk lid is allowed. Tail light panel must not be beat down to cause ramp effect. Only
trunk lid can be modified and it must remain 50% in stock location
11. Transmission coolers are acceptable. Cooler may be mounted inside of car. All lines
traveling inside of driver’s compartment must be metal lines or high pressure hydraulic lines,
and run thru some form of another hose. Max. total size of cooler 24” x 24” x 18” including
mounts.
12. Battery must be mounted in front seat and be secured, fastened, and covered.
13. Radiators must be left in original position or taken out. NO auxiliary engine coolers, NO
anti-freeze. Nylon straps, steel bands, chain,or wire may only be used to support radiator.
14. Trailer hitch must be completely removed
15. NO welding of chain links to form a bar
16. Gas and Gas Tanks – 5 gallon fuel cell highly recommended. Original gas tanks must be
removed. Gas tanks must me metal, secured, and located on the floor in the back seat area.
Gas line may not run under car. Gas tank must be covered. Pump fuel only, NO alcohol,
menthol, or diesel. Cars are restricted to a max. of 6 gallons of gas per event. All gas in pit area
must be in a red container. Gas spillage may result in disqualification. Electric fuel pumps must
have a clearly marked shut-off switch accessible by driver. Drain holes to be drilled around tank
17. Tires – Max. height for classes. NO wheel weights, double or split rims. NO studded tires.
Valve stem guards are permitted, must be securely mounted. Tires may be fastened to rims
with screws.
18. Air bags and charges to be removed by unbolting, NOT cutting out just air bags.
Full-Size Built Class
Derby car entry fee: $100, cash only, includes driver pit pass
$1,500 – 1st place and trophy
$1000 – 2nd place and trophy
$500– 3rd place and trophy
Based on 10 entries minimum
NO 2003 and newer FOMOCO Products!
NO 1973 & Older Imperials or Hearses are allowed
1) No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies
except where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. No painting in the interior of the car.
2) All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
3) All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
4) All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
5) Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and
covered.
6) You must have a number in bright colors on each front door and must have at least the size
of a 15”x15”
sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. You cannot use the roof sign to strengthen the car.
7) All cars must have working brakes.
8) NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any
weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and
your car will not run!!
Bumper
1) Bumpers are interchangeable.
2) Any automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car, but no more than
one set of bumper brackets may be used. In lieu of automotive bumper, 4x4x 1/4 tube may be
used.
3) No Chrysler Pointys are allowed, and no manufactured bumpers.
4) You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame, must keep on one side only. You can
weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You
can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with 1⁄2” bolt or less, and it
must be done vertically.
5) No brackets are allowed to extend any further back than the first 14 inches of the frame. No
brackets
inside the frame at all!!
6) Instead of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use (1) 4” wide x 3/8” thick strap
extending from
your bumper down one side of the frame and cannot extend any further back than the first 14”
of the frame. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create
an “L” shape this is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate may
be formed but it cannot double at any point. Do not abuse this rule you will cut it.
7) You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. Only stock bumpers are allowed
and only bumpers that came stock on cars may be used. You may trim bumper ends or fold
them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. Weld them solid we
do not want them coming off. 4x4 steel tube bumper allowed.
8) No welding bumper to the body in any fashion.
9) Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and must be a
minimum of
14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame.
10) Bumpers must be in stock location.
11) Front and rear bumpers may have (4) loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck
(to sheet
metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be
placed in front
of the radiator.
12) The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may
extend back past
the front most part of the frame rails. Rear Bumper may be mounted in the same manner as
the front bumper.
Frame
1) You may shorten the front frame on a FoMoCo or GM on the front frame only. You may cut
the frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. If it is a weld on mount leave the
remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or
relocate it, you will not run.
2) No rewelding of any factory seams is allowed.
3) Tilting is allowed at boxes. (3) sides of the boxes may be welded no bigger the 1⁄2 inch
welds. Cold Bending is allowed. You may cold bend in the rails under the doors, however your
crossmembers or down bars cannot support the bend.
4) Call before fixing any rust on the frame.
5) No frame shaping or squaring is allowed.
6)All cars may use up to 6- 6x6x1/4 plates on frame rails. Pre-run will be allowed up to 8 may
be formed
Front Suspension
1) Tie Rods and Ball Joints: Aftermarket tie rods & ball joints are allowed. Weld & bolt in rings
are allowed.
2) A-Arms: A-arms may be welded or bolted down with up to a 5/8” bolt but may not be
reinforced. If welded it may only use up to (2) 2”x4”x1/8” thick strap per A-Arm. This strap must
weld to the A-Arm and cannot extend farther forward or backward than 1” past the widest part
of the A-Arm. No changing or modifying the a-arm brackets. Coil springs must be a factory car
coil spring for a car that is permitted to run in this class.
3) Steering box: May be interchanged but must remain a stock box for a car that is legal in the
class you are running. Pitman arms must remain stock or stock replacement
4) Idler Arm: Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm for that is off a car
that is legal in the class you are running.
5) Hubs: Must remain stock for the spindle you are using no aftermarket hubs or rotors. Brake
calipers must remain stock for the stock spindles, can use any bearing and spindle nut.
6) Spindles: Must be stock for a car that is legal in the class you are running; the only exception
is old iron GM spindles.
Rear Suspension
1) Leaf springs must be from a stock car allowed in this class, no added leaf’s. No rearranging
the leaf pack. You may add (2) homemade clamps per side 2”x4”x1/4” thick. No shortening of
the leaf pack. You must have a working shackle. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets
to prevent them from becoming unbolted.
2) You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be
tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), or put spacers in sagging
coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is
listed above. You can wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from
falling out, do not go through body as this would be another body mount. You can loop chain
or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wire) from rear end to frame in (1) spot on each
side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to
weld the chain to the side of the frame. For your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can
weld one link only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping
it around the frame.
Rear Ends
1) Use rear end of choice.
2) You can tilt rear end if you wish for a more desirable pinion angle. Welded or posi-track
highly
recommended. Back braces are welcome. Braces may not extend more than 5” on the outer
10” of a
stock size axle tube and 13” total, all the measurements will be off the center of the axle tube.
3) No changing out rear package trays on frame. You must use the factory brackets that came
with the car
you are running. No relocating brackets on the frame.
4) Rear end control arms can be reinforced. They must start from a stock set but can be
reinforced. They
must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using.
5) No Hybrid Setups. Watts-Conversion are NOT allowed
Tires & Wheels
1) Tires no bigger than 16 inches, No split rims, No studded tires. Doubled tires and Solid Tires
are ok – we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims
2) Wheel reinforcement is allowed as long as the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the
reinforcement stays within the factory bead. Bead locks are permitted in this class. Bead locks
may be no more than 20” in diameter and can be on inside of tire only.
Motor
1) Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location.
2) Distributor Protectors, Midplates, Distributor Cap Protectors, or Full Cradles are NOT
allowed! A midplate is a plate that that goes between the engine and transmission. Only
exception is if using for a BOP transmission (stock bell adapter nothing over inch taller than
stock bell) do not think this is a gray area because you will sit on the trailer!
3) You are allowed a front lower cradle with pulley protector. Cradle must attach to a factory
style engine mount; this is the only way to tie the engine down. Nothing can extend any further
back than 3” from the very last boss on a stock engine. This means no pan protectors, side
bars, carb halos, etc. can go back towards the transmission to tie it in. Header protectors are
allowed, this can be accomplished with a piece of 4”x4”x1⁄4” welded around header only and
cannot connect to anything else.
Transmission
1) You may run any transmission and bell housing. To hold the transmission down you are
allowed (1) loop of 3/8” chain to the cross member with (1) link welded per side OR you can
bolt it down with (2) 5/8” bolts with 1.5” washers using the factory holes in the factory tail shaft
cone. No transmission protectors or aftermarket tail shaft cones are allowed. No steel-built
pans are allowed.
2) You must use a factory cross member for mounting transmission (can be out of another car),
or a straight piece of 2”x2”x1/4” tubing. Transmission crossmember must be completely
straight from side to side and one piece. No contoured or arched crossmembers. They must be
mounted in the stock location. You may use (2) 2”x2”x1/4” x 6” long angle iron to set cross
member on. The transmission cross member is the only method which the transmission may
be tied in.
BODY
1) Body may be shaped on the exterior sheet metal only. No body shaping inside the
passenger compartment, inside the truck, or inside the engine compartment at all.
2) Rust Repair: You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal ONLY. Do not cut rust
out; weld 2” beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through, CALL for instructions on how to fix
the rust hole. DO NOT FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU RUN IT.
#9 WIRE
1) #9 wire allowed in the window openings. (2) per side so (4) total in a car.
2) You may run wire from frame rail underneath the back of the car, behind rear end with 4
loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through
a factory frame hole, or you can weld (1) 3/8 chain link to the side of the frame to run the wire
through, but do not reinforce the frame with the chain link or you will cut it off. This wire may
pass through the trunk floor if you choose.
Radiators
1) For mounting radiators, you may use (4)- 1⁄2” all thread. This may pass through the bottom
of the core support. This must not pass through the upper core support. It may be attached to
a 2”x6” 1/8” flat strap that can be welded to the core support. These straps must be outside
the fan. NO radiator guards allowed.
BODY MOUNTS
1) Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1/2” bolts. These bolts can only be 8” long. Body
mounts can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1” thick and have the same
diameter as stock spacers. Bolts may extend through the body and have up to a 4”x4”x 1⁄4”
washer on top. Washers must be separate and cannot reinforce the frame. Bolts must be up
inside of the frame like factory with up to a 2”x4”x 1⁄4” washer. If you choose to use a body
mount hole for your hood ready bolt this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can go
on the bottom side of the frame and be no larger than 3”. If you choose to leave in the stock
rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a
3⁄4” space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck
them down tight.
2) Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down
solid. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added, do not shorten the front of your car
and move back past the body mount hole as your car will not run. If you have to build core
support spacers you may weld it to the body or the frame mount. Core Support Spacers
cannot exceed 2” square material.
3) The front frame must not be shortened to far that the 1” all thread must pass through the
factory stamped hole. The all thread may only be welded to the side of the frame in this
location.
4) Chrysler K-Member cannot be altered.
HOOD & FRONT CLIP
1) Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may
be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than a total
of (10) bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes
but do not exceed the (10) bolts.
2) You are allowed (6) spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of (4) tie down
spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go
through the front body mount. This spot only may be welded to the frame after it passes
through the body mount but may not be
nutted underneath the body mount if it is welded. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal
to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length! All hood bolts must
be placed outside the windshield bars. You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed
5”x5”x1/4” square or 6” x1/4” round.
3) Front core support cannot be moved back from its factory location. It must stay bolted to the
fenders the same way that it came factory. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of
the core support do not exceed (4) 3/8” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt back to the core
support of fender.
4) You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with (5)
3/8” bolts or less with 1.25” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them.
WINDSHIELD BAR & FRONT CLIP
1) DO NOT ALTER FIREWALL!!! Besides what is mandatory in these rules!!
2) For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the
firewall/dash,
straps cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” flat strap. If and only if you remove the firewall/dash
completely between the straps you can connect these 2 bars. The removed part must be
completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting
the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” straps. No more than 6” of strap
material is allowed on the roof and no more than 6” of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do
not go over 6” on roof or firewall or you will cut. Window bars cannot go more than 6 inches
past the window opening on the exterior only. Must be at least 14” apart at the firewall.
DOORS
1) Doors may be welded 5” on 5” off with nothing larger than 3” wide by 1/8” thick strapping. If
you chose not to weld, the doors must be tied shut in (6) locations using 1⁄2” bolts no longer
than 6”, 3/8” Chain, or #9 wire. If we do not deem the car safe to compete you will add more
fastening points.
2) You are allowed to add bracing to the exterior side of the driver’s door. This bracing must not
stick any further out than 2” from the door and may not have any sharp edges. You are allowed
to carry the bracing up to 3” past the exterior door seam either forward or backward.
SAFETY CAGE
1) All cage material can be no larger than 6” OD, unless specified for a specific rule smaller or
larger. All cage
material must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going straight
down. No cage material can be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or
components, and all cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which
cannot be altered.
2) You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, but do not
connect directly to frame. You may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your
dash area to replace your dash. You may run (2) bars connecting the dash bar and seat bar
inside of the front doors only. You may weld (2) down bars from the cage to the frame vertically
or to the floor to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the
inside door seam and can only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot not
exceed 2”x3”.
3) Side bars may be up to 6”x12”, and cannot exceed 62” long, including the rollover bar.
4) You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and
may be
welded or bolted to the roof.
5) Mopar’s can run a 1” bolt with a 5" plate on both sides (frame and body) in the front most
frame hole in
the rear frame. You are then allowed to weld a kicker from the door bar and weld to the top of
this plate. It can be a maximum of 2x3” square tubing. All Mopar cage material must be 5”
forward from the center of this body mount hole other than the kicker explained prior. Some
Mopar’s have a very tight passenger compartment and you may need to run the halo through
the small back window, mainly Cordoba’s, call first if you have questions.
6) You may also weld a steering column to the cage.
7) Gas tank protector cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered
between your frame humps. It cannot exceed 32” wide. It can angle in from your roll over
protection. It must be a full 3” away from all sheet metal, which cannot be removed or
hammered to get you closer to the frame. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal,
which cannot be removed, measured from the highest flat
area of the floor in the rear seat area. Gas tank protector must be on all 4 sides of the tank,
front, back, both sides. Gas tank protector may extend 6” above the speaker deck.
GAS TANK & COOLERS
1) All equipment must be fashioned tightly to the vehicle! * We do not want to see anything
come loose during the event, if it does, your stick will be pulled. Ratchet straps will only be
sufficient as a backup.
2) Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well-made fuel cell, and it
must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel line must be
secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or
in the center of the car where the back seat used to be. No other source of gas inside the car
at all.
3) Engine coolers are allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. No bolts
may extend through the frame to create a body mount.
TRUNK
1) You may weld your trunk lid shut in (6) spots using up to 3”x5”x1/8” patches on the factory
seam.
2) You can fold hoods or trunk lid over. Do not slide your hood or trunk forward or back, trunk
must remain
on hinges. Trunk lids must be stock shape but may be folded in but keep it clean.
3) (2) 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan, if it passes through a
body mount
hole you must have a 1” spacer between the body and frame
FULL-SIZE STOCK CLASS
Derby car entry fee: $80, cash only, includes driver pit pass
$1000 – 1st place and trophy
$500 – 2nd place and trophy
$300– 3rd place and trophy
Based on 10 entries minimum
NO 2003 and newer FOMOCO Products!
NO 1973 & Older Imperials or Hearses are allowed.
GENERAL RULES
1) The following is not allowed in this class: Distributor protectors, reinforced tie rods,
reinforced control arms, reinforced trailing arms, and creasing body panels. No tipping or cold
bending of frames.
2) No frame repairs are allowed, Unless approved by BILL (715)-828-8270
3) Welding is only allowed for the following: Motor mounts, bumpers, spider gears.
4) ABSOLUTLEY NO WELDING ON THE FRAME!!
5) Remove all glass, chrome, plastic, moldings, headliner, dash, flammable material, a/c
coolant, antifreeze,
trailer hitches and interior decorating.
6) Stock gas tanks must be removed. A small tank must be mounted in the rear seat area. The
tank must be
very secure and covered. Use proper rated fuel lines, plastic tanks must be in a metal box. No
exceptions.
7) Electric fuel pump allowed; switch must be clearly marked.
8) No more than 2 batteries are allowed, which must be relocated to the front passenger
floorboard,
secured and covered.
9) Hoods must have at least a 12” x 12” opening, in case of a fire, if not running headers.
10) Floor shifters, ignition and wiring (hotwire) modifications are allowed.
11) #9 wire only allowed in the door window openings. (1) spot of 4 loops may go around
frame. No #9 wire anywhere else allowed.
BUMPERS & FRAME
1) Any car bumpers can be used besides Chrysler Pointy’s. Loaded and seam welded
bumpers are allowed, in lieu of automotive may use 4x4x1/4 steel tube.
2) Bumpers must be attached to stock bumper shocks, no extra metal allowed. Shocks may be
welded, no extra metal allowed. Shocks and welds may not go more than 6” back from center
of core support mount. You may hard nose bumper to frame and eliminate the shock.
3) 2- 4x4x1/4 plates may be mounted anywhere not tied to drivetrain. Plates may be bent
4) Instead of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use (1) 4” wide x 3/8” thick strap
extending from your bumper down one side of the frame and cannot extend any further back
than the first 14” of the frame. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the
frame 4” to create an “L” shape this is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the
strap. Plate may be formed but it cannot double at any point. Do not abuse this rule you will
cut it. 4x4 tube allowed
5) Hump Plates allowed 4x16x1/4
6) Notching and dimpling of the frame is allowed.
7) No pre-bending.
8) No creasing or squaring of the frame is allowed.
SAFETY CAGE
1) You may have a 4-point cage which consists of a dash bar, a bar behind seat, and a bar
along driver and passenger door. Connecting the four bars is allowed by welding. Cage cannot
be attached in any way, to the frame or body mounts. You may run a roll bar which can be
attached to the roof in 2 spots. You may have one outside driver’s door bar no more than 2”
past the door seam. You may have (4) down bars attached to sheet metal only.
2) Gas tank protector may be mounted off rear seat bar and must be 4” away from sheet metal
and no more than 24” wide.
3) Door Bars cannot exceed 60” Max.
BODY MOUNTS
1) Core support may be changed to a 3/4” max bolt, 5” x 5” washer max. 4” max space
between core support and frame. No adding extra body bolts or mounts.
2) Body Mounts may be 7/16” bolt MAX. Must maintain 3/4” rubber spacing. Max 3x3 washer
HOOD/TRUNK
1) Hood must be open for inspection. After you pass inspection, you may bolt, wire, or chain
your hood in (6) spots.
2) Trunk may be chained in (4) spots using 3/8” chain max.
3) You may have (7) 3/8” drip rail bolts between 3 drip rails.
4) You may have (2) max – 3/4” threaded rod in core support.
5) Front chains (core support) may go around the bumper or frame, NOT BOTH.
6) Only (2) of the trunk chains may go around the frame or bumper, NOT BOTH.
7) One chain per hole or two strands or #9-gauge wire per hole.
8) You may have (2) max – 3/4" threaded rod in trunk. Must go through body mount hole or
welded vertically to the frame.
DOORS
1) Driver’s door may be welded shut for safety. Doors must be chained (2 chains per door
max), wired, or welded shut. No chains or wire may go around the frame. 2”x5”x 1/8” max
patch, four per vertical seam.
DRIVETRAIN
1) May run a J.W. style ultra-bell. No other aftermarket ultra-bells are allowed!
2) Transmission coolers allowed but lines must be safely protected. Motors may be swapped,
example: Ford
to Chevy and so on. Slider drive shafts allowed.
3) Mounts may be changed but, not reinforced, 2 additional chains are allowed; 1 per side to
go from head to engine
crossmember. Lower engine cradle with pulley protector are allowed, must use stock OEM
motor mount.
4) No aftermarket tail shafts. Transmission must be rubber mounted.
5) You may run aftermarket steering columns.
6) If you need to relocate transmission cross member you can weld a piece of angle iron
2x2x1⁄4”x6” long to frame and set cross member on. You may also use a 2x2x1⁄4” box tube
straight across and must use rubber transmission mount. Cross member must be centered on
angle iron.
SUSPENSION
1) May use (2) 2”x4”1/4” flat strap on upper A-Arm, (1) in the front and (1) in the rear of A-Arm.
This may be welded on for suspension height only, not to strengthen frame in any way.
2) No more than 9 leaf’s max, leaf’s must stager 2”.
3) Max of (5) spring clamps per side. ABSOLUTELY no welding or attaching clamps to frame in
any way. 3/8”
max bolts for clamps.
4) Must use stock ball joints or OEM replacement. Must bolt directly in.
REAR ENDS
1) You may run a 5-lug car type rear end, no truck rear ends allowed. No rear end braces at all.
2) You may have hump chains – must go around frame (not body), no welding of the chains!
3) Rear end may be welded to gain posi-traction.
4) No aftermarket axles, they must be stock
5) 4- Trailer arms may be shortened, overlapped and welded. NO adding metal.
TIRES
1) Tires no bigger than 16 inches, No split rims, No studded tires. Doubled tires and Solid Tires
are ok – we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims.
2) Wheel reinforcement is allowed as long as the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the
reinforcement stays within the factory bead. Bead locks are permitted in this class. Bead locks
may be no more than 20” in diameter and can be on inside of tire only.
MIDSIZE
Derby car entry fee - $40.00
$600.00 first place and trophy
$400.00 second place and trophy
$200.00 third place and trophy
May pay out more based on entries
Mid-size 4 cyl. and 6 cyl. ONLY, no full framed cars. No wheel base over 111”
HOOD
1) 6 spots total maybe chains (24”), wire (4 loops) maximum. 2 spots maybe max. of 1”
threaded rod, these may go to frame max 4” x 4” washers, no spacers, rod only, rubber in front
sub maybe removed
TRUNK
2)May have 4 hold downs, 24”chains, 4 loops wire – 2 may go to framing, 2 sheet metal to
sheet metal
DOORS
1) 2 chains (24”) each per door, 2 – 4 loop wire or 2 -2” x 6” plates. Driver’s door maybe welded
solid max. 2” wide plates, reinforced with external plate can’t extend more than 2” past vertical
door seams
WHEELS & TIRES
1)Aluminum may be changed to steel, no reinforcing, no after market
2)DOT, max. height 26”
ENGINE
1)No protectors, stock mounts, NO headers, NO carb convertors
SUSPENSION
1) Must remain completely stock, struts maybe tack welded or clamped
SAFETY CAGE
1)4 point cage, dash bar, back seat bar, drivers and passenger door bars and halo. All cage
materials max. 4” tube Door bars no further than 6” from back of seat.
2)Gas tank protector is recommended, extending rear ward no farther than most forward point
of wheel wells. 4” off floor and in line with back seat opening.
BUMPERS
1)Front Bumper- may be swapped with 80 and newer full size steeI. In lieu of automotive
bumper you may use tube steel 4” x 4” x ¼” thick no wider than car.
2)You may mount by bolting or welding to flanges only. Max. 6” long tube inside of uni-body
frame to weld bumper to. May only be attached to frame by bolting 2 bolts per side max. 2”
washers, may also weld factory flanges – NO other adding of metal.
3)Rear bumper -maybe swapped out, welded to factory flanges only, NO adding metal
Speaker deck maybe dished max. of 3” Back window bar max. 2x 2” ,3/8” thick from speaker
deck to roof
RADIATORS
1)Stock style radiator only, ¼” mesh protector allowed, NO angle iron – just mesh
Sheet metal can be creased
Rear bumper -maybe swapped out, welded to factory flanges only, NO adding metal
Speaker deck maybe dished max. of 3” Back window bar max. 2x 2” ,3/8” thick from speaker
deck to roof
FWD MINI VANS
VAN Entry Fee $40
$300 1st Place & trophy
$200 2nd Place & trophy
$100 3rd Place & trophy
Based on 10 entries minimum
GENERAL RULES
1) No full-size vans or SUV’s, Front Wheel Drive only.
2) No welding unless rules say.
3 No welding struts, tie rods, motor mounts, etc.
4) You may have a floating 4-point cage with halo, you may have a floating gas tank protector
that
follows the tank.
5) All body mounts must be factory unless rusted out. If rusted out, change with same size bolt
and
leave stock pucks in.
6) Wire, weld or chaining of the doors, trunk lid, and hood is allowed. Max of (2) per seam
allowed, (4) are allowed in the hood. 2 threaded rods may be welded to the top of frame.
7) Fuel cell may be mounted on the back-seat bar and 2” away from back seat area.
8) Aftermarket gas pedal, brake pedal, shifter, and headers are allowed.
9) You may put a car bumper on, 6” from bumper backing you may use a bracket to weld it on,
anything past 6” will be cut off! You can also put a 6”x4” piece of tubing on instead. No loaded
bumpers, seam welded is fine!!
10) Any tire is allowed.
11) All plastic, lights, and glass must be removed.
12) Pre-ran car fix it plates (2) 5x5 1⁄4” plates. these can be used to weld bumper back on if
you need to. Plates cannot be split up, must stay 5x5”. If those 2 plates aren’t enough, build a
new car.
13) Drivers door can be welded shut fully, or a door plate may be used.
14) Any engine or transmission may be used but it must be bolted in with factory mounts.
Absolutely no welding to swap them! You can carb convert an EFI engine in this class.
15) Only stock driveshafts are allowed!
POWER WHEELS DERBY
Please also refer to the general/competition/safety rules
Safety is first for the Power Wheels Class for all children
This is supposed to be fun for the kids!! Parents, Please don’t ruin if for them
Power Wheels Derby is for kids 2 –10 years old. All kids MUST be accompanied by an adult
and have a Minor Release form on file
Derby is limited to 12 Volt Power Wheels only. All power wheels must remain as they came
from the store. Nothing may be added or reinforced for strength. Paint them up and let the kids
have a blast!!!!
Stock tires only
All power wheels must set like the store bought ones – no raising or lowering the front or rear
of the power wheels
Stock battery can be replaced with a 12 volt mower battery only. It can be positioned anywhere
inside the car and covered, not in the passenger seat
Rollover bars will be allowed as long as we feel they are safe and don’t reinforce the cars - so
bring your saws
Helmets are mandatory
Seatbelts are recommended
Doors and hoods must be secured with a bungee cord, rope, or similar
Power Wheels Derby will be held after heats
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