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Post by rennyx on Mar 10, 2022 9:44:11 GMT -5
That's what I was wondering. I can use a window bar. How deep should I dish it? Cut out speaker deck and move trunk lid ahead? Beat bottom of trunk up? Fold over bottom of quarters? A lot of questions but I have super clean car and I don't want to ruin it by doing something wrong. I am in Ontario so good cars are hard to come by.
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noser23x
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Post by noser23x on Mar 10, 2022 10:06:04 GMT -5
That's what I was wondering. I can use a window bar. How deep should I dish it? Cut out speaker deck and move trunk lid ahead? Beat bottom of trunk up? Fold over bottom of quarters? A lot of questions but I have super clean car and I don't want to ruin it by doing something wrong. I am in Ontario so good cars are hard to come by. I fold quarters under and beat the spare tire up for predictability, I also cut a few slice and wrapped portion of quarter at bottom to work with dimples, pull in the quarters tight to frame is way to much for no hump plate. Then body peening, and pull trunk down. How much is really subjective, but usually a foolish or so for me with package tray in. The tighter the material comes together, the harder it is on humps. For me, I build a little softer with no hump plate, it's a trade off between predictability and how hard it is in the back, I lean predictability.
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owen11x
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Post by owen11x on Mar 10, 2022 10:22:11 GMT -5
^^^ pretty spot on. We run around the same area around home here and rarely run or build vics anymore but like i always say to people and the way i build my cars especially mopars. I generally always build the rear of my cars for defense only i hate driving backwards
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Post by space saver on Mar 10, 2022 12:50:13 GMT -5
So I’ve been following this for a minute and I have a thought. How wise would it be to suck the quarters in like Sean’s car, with the rear end against the base of the hump, like pictured below. I understand it will put a lot of stress on the control arm bolts and all that but besides that, what do you think? Worth a shot? About to be building a car to the ccc street stock weld rules and talked to the promotor and was given the go ahead.
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owen11x
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Post by owen11x on Mar 10, 2022 19:48:37 GMT -5
Id rather move rear forwards like most of the builds, i see no benefit to moving rear end back what so ever, unless you have a massive oversized rear end brace and you use the bracing as a frame stop essentially.
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Post by space saver on Mar 10, 2022 20:08:58 GMT -5
Id rather move rear forwards like most of the builds, i see no benefit to moving rear end back what so ever, unless you have a massive oversized rear end brace and you use the bracing as a frame stop essentially. That’s the thought exactly. No hump plates allowed so figure it could work to keep humps from blowing. Metric gm or a 2 hit Chevy if you will.
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Post by DerbyKing88s on Mar 14, 2022 12:31:32 GMT -5
Just saw this thread take off again. To answer the before mentioned question is slightly hard because everyone does things different. In the last 2 weeks there have been 2 national shows where the main class did not allow hump plates, more and more people doing some form of trunk with everything over the rails. From close studying, knowing what it takes and how things react I’ll say there is definitely some risk, but when done right works very well. You have to ensure there is a very defined bend point in the rail and body, you don’t have to dimple the outside of the body but there is for sure a bend point inside you can’t see. Proper rear bumper, angle, and height is key to that. Also, getting everything over the rails doesn’t mean you have to dish it either. I do know that when I’m allowed to change mounts my trunk will be sucked in and over the rails, from there the rest of the trunk depends on the car and rules.
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owen11x
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Post by owen11x on Mar 14, 2022 14:12:01 GMT -5
With what Sean said. Id be cautious though unless your allowed 9 wire or down bars welded to frame and certainly a solid GTP pressured to package tray.. just my opinion
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Post by DerbyKing88s on Mar 14, 2022 14:39:31 GMT -5
Yes for sure, it’ll roll and pack hard and most likely transfer a lot of stress to in front of the humps. How u can tie roof in, get pressure, and lock things in will all dictate how it does. Attention to detail is key
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Post by rennyx on Feb 18, 2023 11:19:49 GMT -5
I am about ready to do the trunk on my box vic. I am dishing it and allowed hump plates. I am leaving the speaker deck in it. Do you cut out all the brackets for the trunk hinges or leave them in place? Mount the lid in original position or move it forward a bit?
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noser23x
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Post by noser23x on Feb 18, 2023 21:32:14 GMT -5
I am about ready to do the trunk on my box vic. I am dishing it and allowed hump plates. I am leaving the speaker deck in it. Do you cut out all the brackets for the trunk hinges or leave them in place? Mount the lid in original position or move it forward a bit? Speaker deck is too thin of sheet metal for me personally to fight with, either cut it out or manipulate it to do something else. That depends on the rules but for the most part most of the brackets are just in the way to me and causes more issues trying to manipulate the trunk. I see no real benefit moving it forward.
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