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Post by C4 on Jan 9, 2021 23:02:11 GMT -5
We can short nose, we can use 14" of bumper bracket (which can just be 3/8 plate with a 4" wrap around), with no cradle we can have the kickers, and any frame or body seam from the ball joints forward can be welded. We can also have a couple plates on a fresh car. Might have to dust off & freshen up the ol' mid sump Buick 3.8
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Post by superM on Jan 9, 2021 23:10:05 GMT -5
From what I understand of pinch framers in general, they like to bend in between the front/back bolts of K-frame. Ideally you want end of brackets to end around back of K-frame if rules allow, ending in center would move pressure point to a place you don't want.
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boom61
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Post by boom61 on Jan 10, 2021 0:33:25 GMT -5
Mine bent right in front of K-frame and right in front of the firewall mostly and it was rusty between the A-arm mounts/K-frame bolts. Seams started splitting in front of firewall. Eventually I think it had small puckers about everywhere and started to belly in the floor.
C4, I didn't have issues with going side to side at all like they are known for, but had 10" 2x2 shocks. With plate it might be more of an issue. Like Foxes, shortening may counter that. 14" should get about to the A-arm and can connect to front of K-frame. Could be pretty darn hard if you can keep it from nosing at the firewall.
FYI, K-frame bolts are 5/8 coarse thread, so my front mount I drilled top of frame and ran allthread through and put a good sized washer on top.
I know I told C4 before but the humps are definitely a weak link on these. First run I only had them wired to the axle and they blew pretty bad. Also have to watch wheel wells and quarters separating from frame/floor.
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boom61
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Post by boom61 on Jan 10, 2021 11:34:54 GMT -5
Crap, I can see them on my end... I'll work on it later.
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Post by superM on Jan 11, 2021 21:52:26 GMT -5
For what it's worth, it looks like need minimum 18" worth of bumper bracket (on a 75 at least) in order to get back to the back K-member mounting point which is about the same point as where A-arm mounts are. If one was to shorten accordingly, it wouldn't need to be quite as long.
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boom61
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Post by boom61 on Jan 13, 2021 22:54:05 GMT -5
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boom61
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Post by boom61 on Jan 13, 2021 23:00:57 GMT -5
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boom61
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Post by boom61 on Jan 13, 2021 23:04:17 GMT -5
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boom61
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Post by boom61 on Jan 13, 2021 23:40:32 GMT -5
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boom61
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Post by boom61 on Jan 14, 2021 0:35:01 GMT -5
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boom61
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Post by boom61 on Jan 14, 2021 12:16:55 GMT -5
For what it's worth, it looks like need minimum 18" worth of bumper bracket (on a 75 at least) in order to get back to the back K-member mounting point which is about the same point as where A-arm mounts are. If one was to shorten accordingly, it wouldn't need to be quite as long. I'm guessing my links worked this time. lol After looking at more pics and jogging the memory bank that sounds about right. My 10" shocks w/ a derby tape measure got to the front of the K-member.
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Post by C4 on Jan 14, 2021 13:26:36 GMT -5
Your front stub is full length, yes?
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boom61
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Post by boom61 on Jan 14, 2021 20:35:56 GMT -5
yes.
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Hotfoot674
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If you're headers aren't cherry red by the end of the night then you didn't try/hit hard enough,
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Post by Hotfoot674 on Jan 16, 2021 13:22:08 GMT -5
if you pursue this i hope like changing belts and the smell of burning rubber
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Hotfoot674
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If you're headers aren't cherry red by the end of the night then you didn't try/hit hard enough,
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Post by Hotfoot674 on Jan 16, 2021 15:00:15 GMT -5
If he wants to put a 2stroke in his valiant (hes not) How will he get the power to the rear wheels? Will he use a transmission? How will he get it atached to the motor? I was thinking he would use the factory clutch and belt drive which he would just burn up. this is what i was thinking something like this www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCUIKo9xsGE
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