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Post by luv2hit on Apr 8, 2020 8:13:39 GMT -5
Wondering what’s the best way to set up the back of a 75 electra. I have tucked the trunk, notched and dimpled the frame. My question is doing this making the rear go away to fast. I want it to last as long as possible but control how it bends too. Just option to opinions thanks !!!! Not much in the 74-6 tips and tricks post on this!
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Post by justforfun1973 on Apr 8, 2020 8:47:44 GMT -5
Sounds like you already built it. Yes imo notches make rear go way to fast and rip frame rails. I don’t like to notch. The build all depends on rules tho. There is plenty of info in the 74-76 gm thread, did you even read it?
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Apr 8, 2020 9:17:03 GMT -5
I still notch all my cars. It's more so how you have it notched if it's gonna go to fast. Rules would help us help you
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Post by luv2hit on Apr 8, 2020 13:26:40 GMT -5
I have read the 74-6 tips more then the paper next to the shitter !!!!! Rules are no protectors/ leaf conversions. Any rear end and u can put 1” thick pipe in plate of body bushings and replace stock body bolts with 1/2 grade 8’. cannot wedge trunk rear quarters have to remain upright. U can dovetail/canoe 6” deep and tuck if you want.
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Apr 8, 2020 15:23:47 GMT -5
Trunk welded and all threads through it ? If so I'd U it. To get the trunk lid to hold the rear longer before it goes all the way up to your tires. But this is why I fold my trunk lids in half and bolt the skins together then it will pull to about 6 inchs off the floor and then it packs tight
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Apr 8, 2020 15:34:34 GMT -5
If I can't do trunk folded in half this is my next way. Not my car. This is from the 74 to 76 pic thread.
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Post by smashincwa on Apr 8, 2020 19:13:55 GMT -5
The olds 98 and 225 74-76 are the hardest rears. I think a big reason is the body lines, wheelbase, rear bumper and brackets, and frame distance to the rear wheel. I haven't seen many bend goofy or down as stock, but you will end up with a whale tail if you dont do something to the frame, but this is eventually. I'd pick a 74 225 hardtop or luxor for GM of choice.
I think the notch or dimple needs to be differn't for rear of these compared to say lesabre, catalina, or impala or caddy. The caddy rear needs the most help of all the GM B body rearends.
My personal feeling is that notching and folding allows the rear to fold up much quicker than necessary for these cars, maybe less is more for the 98 and 225? The rears of these cars will eat if left alone. Unfortunately, notching/ dimpling the 98 and 225 got thrown in with the "cool thing to do" 15 years ago and it's stuck. It's not how I would set it up. For the impala, it's gold.
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Apr 8, 2020 19:28:41 GMT -5
We only cut top out then hammer the sides in. This is so the sides will fold in and touch then gives at our 2nd notch which is only a half inch wide. Every one does their notchs different and since we went to this we haven't ripped a frame. Now when we dimpled we had seams rip out. So we don't do that anymore. We figured out what we did wrong so it wouldn't rip them out.
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lincoln
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Post by lincoln on Apr 9, 2020 7:03:52 GMT -5
When you notch you have to leave the corners of the frame. Only cut the top, flat part of the frame. Or yes, they’ll rip
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Post by smashincwa on Apr 9, 2020 10:02:33 GMT -5
Or, notch it, prebend it, then weld the gap back up.
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Post by justforfun1973 on Apr 9, 2020 13:40:47 GMT -5
I have read the 74-6 tips more then the paper next to the shitter !!!!! Rules are no protectors/ leaf conversions. Any rear end and u can put 1” thick pipe in plate of body bushings and replace stock body bolts with 1/2 grade 8’. cannot wedge trunk rear quarters have to remain upright. U can dovetail/canoe 6” deep and tuck if you want. If you can/want to leaf it I would. With these rules I would u the trunk as demo boy 333 said. Seam weld the humps and shape them a little if ya can. Dimple or notch up to you... Like said above it depends how fast you want it to roll.
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Post by cowdoc on Apr 9, 2020 21:16:53 GMT -5
I would do a 6" trough, slice on frame at end of bumper brackets, ready rod from frame to front of trunk and 9 wire between framerails at lower hump bend, chain humps, double springs and drive backward more than forward. Agree with smashincwa, the rears are tough and a tuck/notch wastes a lot of their potential.
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Post by smashincwa on Apr 10, 2020 11:39:52 GMT -5
If you can weld the thread rod to the frame, I'd be prebending then welding the rod at the prebend.
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lincoln
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Post by lincoln on Apr 11, 2020 16:29:28 GMT -5
If you’re gonna notch right at the end of the bumper bracket then trim the 90* flat part back a little.
If you don’t, when it flips and your frame bulges at the notch, that piece will slice the frame as it flips back into the bulge
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355
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Post by 355 on Apr 11, 2020 21:05:46 GMT -5
No notch on a deuce or 98. Slight dimple at most.
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