General rules for 1972 and older "Old School" fullsize class:
If vehicle don't pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change vehicle to pass our rules here,they loose there entry fee and pit pass money.
Read and build to the rules.All rules will be followed and enforced,or you will not participate here...Absolutely NO REFUNDS.
Every vehicle gets a max of 2 times to pass inspection.We are not gonna play lets make a deal game.After 2nd time ,you won't compete here.
Inspectors and judges decisions are Final !!!
The reason to have rules is to keep it fair for everyone.The reason for inspectors is to enforce the rules to keep everyone on a level playing field.
NO arguing or fighting,you will loose entry fee and be banned from any future events.We are here to have fun,not make enemies.
All drivers must attend drivers meeting before start of event.
No hot rodding in pit area,keep it at idle please.
All gas cans in pit area must be in a red container.
Do not hit drivers door,please respect the safety of the other drivers.Do not use drivers door as a shield.
When you arrive on the event grounds,get registered.Then unload your vehicle and get inspected in the inspection area.Don't wait till the last minute. Thanks for your cooperation.
Inspection: starts at 9 am.You must be registered and inspected by 12 am (noon) ...NO EXCEPTIONS !!!
Everyone in pit area must have a pit pass or you will be escorted out of the pit area...Only drivers need to attend drivers meeting.
No switching drivers allowed.Car and driver qualify as a team.
You are given 20 seconds to make a aggressive hit,30 seconds for restart or if your hung up.Sandbaggers get less time than hitters here.
We go by the 3 strikes your out rule: First warning is in drivers meeting,second warning you get a pink stripe painted on your vehicle. Third warning for sandbagging you get another pink stripe to make a X...At this time I break your stick and your done for the day and loose all your prize money.We are here to put on a show for the fans,not to see who can sit in corner the longest or drive back and forth to avoid most hits.
If you get hung up on another vehicle or the wall,its up to you to get unhooked.We are not going to stop the action to separate you.
Team driving is hard to enforce,however holding is not allowed here and will result in disqualification.Hit and release.Do not hold a vehicle so your buddy can come hit same vehicle (this is not a team event)...
Fire rule: If you have a fire you are disqualified from event.We are not going to keep stopping the action for same vehicle to start on fire again.
1972 and older "Old School Classic" fullsize car/wagon class:
Only 1972 and older american made sedans or station wagons allowed... NO 1957 and newer chrysler Imperials,1970 and older lincolns or 1971-72 GM leaf spring station wagons allowed in this event.
NO all black vehicles allowed,only 50% can be painted black.must have number of your choice painted on front doors OR have a roof sign with your number on it.
All vehicles must have there number painted on front doors OR have a roof sign with your number on it.
No #9 wire,cable,chain or metal straps in window openings to body or frame.You can have them in the windshield area and on drivers door window opening sheet metal to sheet metal only for drivers safety.
All windows,chrome,plastic,emblems,lights,trash,interior and carpet must be removed before inspection.
Battery: must be relocated securely inside the vehicle in front passenger side area.You can use up to 2 batteries max. Must be covered with rubber floor mat.
Gas Tank or Fuel Cell: must be in a metal tank and securely relocated behind drivers seat in middle of the car...10 gallons max fuel tank limit.
NO frame or subframe swaps.Frame must match year,make and model of body.NO welding or adding extra bolts to/on frame anywhere. NO trailer hitches or braces.You may notch or dimple rear frame rails.
The front bumper and front bumper brackets must be original front bumper to year,make and model.NO front bumper swaps,instant reload. Do not show up with a piston type front bumper or brackets,you will not compete here.Do not weld bumpers to body or brackets. Do not weld brackets to the frame.
Only rust repair allowed is in the floor board area where front seat goes and your feet go,for drivers safety.Leave the rusted area in to prove it was rusty. You can go 2" past rusted area to bolt or weld new metal in.NO other patching allowed.
You may roll top of doors down to meet the inner door skin,but do not weld,add any metal or bolt them together.If you decide to,you will cut all of it.
NO sedagons or full wedges.Front clip must match year make and model. EXAMPLE: NO swapping a chevy clip on a buick,olds,pontiac OR putting a 73-76 core support in a 71-72 chevy clip.
Hood must not be bent down in front of radiator.Leave in factory position,do not slide it forward or bend over front of core support. You show up and its slid forward or bent down in front you will be torching it off where it ends above core support. Once again this rule is to make it fair for everyone in this fullsize car/wagon class here.
You may pound the rear quarter panels in or crease the factory body lines only on rear quarter panels before derby,no other home made creases allowed on other body panels.
They must remain original,don't even touch them.You may replace the two front core support bolts with 3/4" max.NO spacers between bottom of core support and top of frame. This will help eliminate people trying to cold bend or tilt front frame.
Drivers door:can be welded solid for drivers safety. All other doors: 2 chains or wires per verticle seam.If using wire can be 2 strands per hole.(4 chains or wires max per door). Nothing allowed to go around rocker or frame.This keeps it fair for all different makes and models.
4 spots max to secure hood,factory hood hinges do not count...Chain,wire,or 3/4 bolts...Only two can go to the frame. You can bolt allthread thru frame to the core support...Only 3 nuts max. per piece of allthread...Althread must be straight up and down (not angled). You can weld allthread to side of frame. Do not weld the allthread, or any steel or plates to the core support...Allthread must be behind the core support. You can weld angle iron to the hood and fender to run a bolt thru if you choose...Angle iron must not exceed 6" in length. 6"x 6" hood plates square max. Hood must be in the factory location...Do not slide it forward or bend it down over the front of core support to help guard radiator. If you show up and this is done you will cut the hood flush with top of the core support. You can have eight total 3/8" bolts max in or around hood openings...Hood must have a 12" hole in it, incase of fire.
Radiator Core support:
No additional bolts or welding on core support.NO additional metal (including expanded metal) can be bolted or welded to core support. NO home made spacers between bottom of core support and top of frame.This will help prevent anybody from trying to cold bend or tilt front frame.Fair for everyone. Allthread can go thru factory core support hole OR be welded directly to side of frame rail with NO additional metal..Allthread must be tight to core support. Do not weld allthread to back of the core support.
TRUNK and TAILGATE:
2 spots max to secure trunk or tailgate.Factory hinges do not count.You can use chain or wire OR two 3/4" allthread to frame. Plates for allthread can be up to 6" x 6" square max. Allthread can be secured to frame thru factory body bolt hole or welded directly to side of frame rail..Allthread must remain straight up and down (not angled). Trunklids must remain in factory position on factory orig hinges,50% of trunklid must remain in orig location.Only a single 90 degree bend allowed on trunklid... NO rear window bar. Tailgate on station wagons can be chained or wired in 2 spots,NO allthread in rear of any station wagon.
ENGINE and TRANSMISSION:
You can use any 6 or 8 cylinder of your choice.NO diesel engines allowed.NO distributor protectors.NO full engine cradles or protectors.NO tranny braces or aftermarket steel or aluminum bellhousings. You can use a basic engine cradle with pulley protector.Pulley protector must not contact sway bar at any time or you will be DQ'd. Engine can be mounted to engine cradle only,nothing to frame rails. You can chain engine to engine cross member with a small piece of chain on each side of engine.You can run chain or wire around the tailshaft on trans to trans cross member. Headers thru the hood are allowed. You can use a aftermarket transmission cooler and home made shifter of your choice.
Must remain in stock location,you may run a aluminum radiator if you wish.NO home made or radi barrels allowed. NO additional metal (including expanded metal) in front of radiator besides stock automotive AC condensor in front of radiator. You may secure radiator in with wire,straps,or two pieces of (1/2" or less) of allthread behind the radiator from bottom of core support to top.
Must be 5 lug automotive rear end. NO axle braces or axle savers or any kind of truck rear ends. Can have a aftermarket home made pinion brake and a slider driveshaft. You can weld rear end or install a spool. RIMS and TIRES:
Rims must start out as a factory rim,nor home made.You can add a small center for additional bolt patterns, NO full aftermarket steel centers will be allowed.NO bead locks. Can add a 1" lip protector,any more than this you will have to change your rims.A simple valve stem protector is allowed..Thats it nothing more !!!
Tires: can be forklift,skid steer,V tread,doubled or tubed only...NO solid rubber tires,tire flaps,rim guards,side wall protectors.
You can change steering column and wheel,rest has to remain stock to make and model.You may reinforce factory tie rods,no aftermarket ones allowed.Spindles and A-arms must remain automotive.
Must remain stock from factory.Leaf springs and hangers must remain factory OEM stock in stock location.NO welding or chaining A-arms to frame.Do not chain rear axle to frame. You can add 3 additional spring clamps per side on factory leaf springs.Clamps must be no bigger than 1/4" thick,2" wide with two 3/8 bolts. If you want to gain front end height you can replace the front springs on GM and ford to factory bigblock springs,MoPar products can crank torsion bars.This will make it fair for all.
You can have a basic 4 point cage with halo and gas tank protector.Halo can be bolted to roof in 2 spots.Halo and gas tank protector must be free floating off seat bar, nothing to frame. You must have atleast a seat bar welded from door post to door post to compete in this class.Any cage material can only be up to 6" max tube. Windshield must have 1 or 2 chains,wires or 3" max wide straps verticle from roof to firewall.
You can have 1 down bar welded to door bar and rocker,nothing to frame...(1 down bar on passenger side,1 down bar on drivers side) must be straight up and down. 6" max tube. Must be placed in middle of door area and do not hide or cover up factory body bolt location or you will cut it out.This is for safety of driver,not to reinforce vehicle. Door bar can be 60" long max per side.Gas tank protector can be no wider than 24" and must be 1" from any sheet metal.
Our main concern is the safety of everyone.
NO additional wire allowed anyplace unless specified in our rules.You decide to add more than whats in rules,you will be cutting it back out.
$200 protest fee,must be cash. You must be driver in same class to protest another driver.If the vehicle is found illegal,protestor gets driver DQ'ed and $100 back. If vehicle is found legal,protested driver gets $100 and inspectors get to keep $100...
We already have several entries for the 1972 and older"Old School Classic'fullsize class...If ya want to see vehicles actually bend like they use to this is the place to be.Last year this class had 25 entries show up and put on a awsome show.We had drivers from 4 different states compete here, lets make this year bigger and better than ever before.