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Post by cowdoc on Jan 2, 2020 19:21:24 GMT -5
To keep car counts and level the playing field we're considering allowing cars that only run lower cradles, no dps, steel bells, trans protectors the option of running a kicker on each side from cage to frame at back of upper a arm. The protected cars can run kickers if they desire but must cut firewall and tunnel so no protector bracing occurs or dont cut but cant run kickers. We dont want anything extreme so wondering what size pipe should be allowed. Id love some input
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owen11x
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Post by owen11x on Jan 2, 2020 19:42:19 GMT -5
2x2 1/4"wall with a 3x4 1/4 pad is what i always ran on the kicker cars. I wish more shows would allow people who dont wanna soend a pile of money on protectors to run kickers against protector cars.
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Landshark007
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Post by Landshark007 on Jan 2, 2020 20:36:37 GMT -5
My kickers are a little more than I need but they are 3x3 3/8 thick
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noser23x
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Post by noser23x on Jan 3, 2020 8:52:32 GMT -5
2x2 is pretty common but I allow a 3x3 in my rules but mine is a builders class so its heavier. From the sounds of your rules I would say 2x2 is fair, but make sure to allow a landing plate on frame. If not it just wraps the frame around the kicker.
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Post by space saver on Jan 3, 2020 9:31:16 GMT -5
With this in mind, next year I will be running in theory a full weld car, i was wondering should the landing pad count as plate?? If not i will dispute it if they try to claim it.
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owen11x
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Post by owen11x on Jan 3, 2020 9:39:14 GMT -5
In my opinion the pad should not count. Without the pad it defeats the purpose of what the kicker is trying to do. Now on a few of my builds i put a 4x4 plate on the side of the frame right below the kicker attached to my pad as well. Just to help from.the frame pushing out. Run my dash bar fairly low id rather the kicker have to push more back than up. I gusset all my cages heavy as well so everything has to push back and put to the door bars. Its all about physics and geometry when building a kicker car and cages to support them
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Post by space saver on Jan 3, 2020 10:32:41 GMT -5
So let's say I cant have my gtp tight to the package trey, would up pressure with downbars and a chain holding the cage down with a more upward angle on the kicker be beneficial or no?
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owen11x
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Post by owen11x on Jan 3, 2020 11:11:58 GMT -5
So let's say I cant have my gtp tight to the package trey, would up pressure with downbars and a chain holding the cage down with a more upward angle on the kicker be beneficial or no? Id still run it low and run your center bar in cage and gusset from dash bar to middle of door bar and make it push the door bars out then just weld your door bars to the innee door panels and pillars. Everywhere it touches weld it and with your down bars welded to your floor it wont move much even without gtp touching
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Post by klicky96 on Jan 3, 2020 17:52:40 GMT -5
So let's say I cant have my gtp tight to the package trey, would up pressure with downbars and a chain holding the cage down with a more upward angle on the kicker be beneficial or no? Think of it this way. If you are standing up and try to push an object with your leg, let's say at a 45* angle, it takes a lot of effort. But if you sit down, and push straight on it, you move it with ease. Remember, you're trying to hold the frame as straight as possible. Running the kicker higher will just keep it from going up but wont help with pushing back.
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Post by DerbyKing88s on Jan 3, 2020 20:04:47 GMT -5
2x2 or 3x3 with landing pad
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Post by cowdoc on Jan 3, 2020 21:56:42 GMT -5
Thanks for input. Is right behind a arm the right place for kicker or at top of dogleg bend?
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Landshark007
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Post by Landshark007 on Jan 3, 2020 22:42:19 GMT -5
I would say 1” behind a arms
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noser23x
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Post by noser23x on Jan 3, 2020 23:59:20 GMT -5
Kicker should be allowed to go right up to A Arm, kicker really makes things move quick in the spring pocket as thats the weak point then. If you run it short of A Arm it just makes that bend worse.
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Post by DerbyKing88s on Jan 4, 2020 10:47:19 GMT -5
Right to the a arm
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