improse
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Post by improse on Sept 28, 2019 15:51:09 GMT -5
Cutting relief cuts in the sheet metal and and some hammer work on the humps stop them from plowing. now ya tell us.lol nice learning curve for sure.
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Post by rhull1977 on Sept 28, 2019 20:02:21 GMT -5
Cutting relief cuts in the sheet metal and and some hammer work on the humps stop them from plowing. now ya tell us.lol nice learning curve for sure. There used to be some pictures of how to do the humps in the 77 up metric gm section. Cut the braces out that go from the inner wheel house to the speaker deck and cut some diamond cuts in the quaters above the wheel wells at the back. One about the top of the wheel well and 1 about half way between the top and the cut. Make the bottom 1 about 4 to 5 inches long and the top 2.5 to 3 inches. Make them both about 2 inches across the center. See if that helps on the next one.
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owen11x
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Post by owen11x on Sept 28, 2019 20:38:32 GMT -5
I've yet to have a metric gm drop or blow the humps even without cheating. Just be creative and control the bend best you can
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improse
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Post by improse on Sept 29, 2019 21:35:13 GMT -5
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Sept 29, 2019 21:37:48 GMT -5
Please tell me the color discoloration isn't from you using heat! Yes the humps need hour glassed. But heat will stretch the metal to be thin. This will weaken the frame big time. we do a 4 inch notch out of the top of frame only (right where the frame angles down) then hammer the side of notch inward then just a half inch cut right at the hump just the top then just the edge out of the inside edge. This makes the frame roll right where they angle it down an then once the pieces you beat in touch this will make it then roll at your 2nd notch. Now some people use few more notch then us some just use one. This is what works for us an we will continue to do this an not have them go down. Now the driving style does come into play. The way we do so is hit lower cars an hit light till the rear starts to go up (we don't prebend) then once it's rolled up about core support height you can start hitting how you feel.
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improse
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Post by improse on Sept 29, 2019 21:43:10 GMT -5
yes it's from heat. we had no real choice in the matter. trust me each side had like 4 really bad bubbles.so we chained it down use winch to straighten out the humps then under pressure we got out the BFH/plus a few plates. hump bubbles were so bad they were rubbing the backside of tires.
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improse
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Post by improse on Sept 29, 2019 21:59:17 GMT -5
Please tell me the color discoloration isn't from you using heat! Yes the humps need hour glassed. But heat will stretch the metal to be thin. This will weaken the frame big time. we do a 4 inch notch out of the top of frame only (right where the frame angles down) then hammer the side of notch inward then just a half inch cut right at the hump just the top then just the edge out of the inside edge. This makes the frame roll right where they angle it down an then once the pieces you beat in touch this will make it then roll at your 2nd notch. Now some people use few more notch then us some just use one. This is what works for us an we will continue to do this an not have them go down. Now the driving style does come into play. The way we do so is hit lower cars an hit light till the rear starts to go up (we don't prebend) then once it's rolled up about core support height you can start hitting how you feel. I believe our biggest issue was the rear sitting to low from the get go.we could not change rear springs/lock and had to move freely with one hand. car was only like a 1 week built,chained the doors,wired hood/deck lid shut/won the show.lmao
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Sept 29, 2019 23:23:14 GMT -5
Coil over shocks an a 2 inch spacer in spring on the shock an paint the spacer to match the promoters look right pass them. This allows bounce in suspension. A spring swap could be done as long as your spring came from a rear so it had the small end to sit on rearend. They would never tell that either.
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